CHAPTER VI. APPLYING RUBBING VARNISH--SURFACING VARNISH--CARE OF THE FINISHING ROOM WASHING THE RUBBED SURFACES--FLOWING THE FINISHING COAT.

One well-known varnish maker has said that the marvelous thing about carriage varnish is that it must be one garment suited to all kinds of weather. As a material destined to shine in the public eye, its proper manipulation and treatment is manifestly of the first importance to the carriage painter. No other material with which the painter has to do is so sensitive to the robust variety of influences constantly attacking it as varnish. The virtues of a first-class varnish which add to its durability, increase its brilliancy, and in other ways enhance the beauty of a surface over which it is used are the ones that impart to it a peculiar sensitiveness characteristic of no other material. Briefly, then, we may sum up the task of applying and manipulating varnish upon a carriage surface as a delicate job. A workman of fine notions, intelligent, painstaking and highly skilled in the handling of the proper tools, is the only successful varnisher. Such a workman is required to get all that is true and fine and lasting and lovely out of the employment of varnish. In the varnishing of a vehicle the first kind of varnish we are required to use is rubbing varnish. The duty of putting on rubbing varnish is less difficult, practically considered, than that of flowing the finishing coat, but rubbing varnish bespeaks deft and skillful handling. The first coat of rubbing demands to be applied quite as precisely, and with the same thoroughness as to details, as would mark the application of any of the later coats. In the application of the first and second rubbing coats to body surfaces, the bodies, when of a build to permit of the practice, should be tipped so as to offer a flat, upturned surface, a device for holding the bodies in this position having been illustrated in Chapter I. Fuller and finer rubbing coats may be flowed on when the bodies are tipped. Tipping of all the lighter forms of vehicle bodies is practiced in leading shops when applying the first and second rubbing coats.

The writer, therefore, advises observance of the practice in even the smallest of shops. There is less chance for brushmarks and other defects manifesting themselves. With the heavily flowed on rubbing coats, the round, full surface which distinguishes the product of the best varnish rooms is obtained at a less expenditure of time and labor, than when the thinner coats are employed. I would suggest the full, heavy rubbing coat as the most effective aid in avoiding brushmarks and in drowning out the dust motes and flocculent matter to be noted as part and parcel of the skimpy brushed on coat of varnish. The modern ethics of carriage painting affirms the excellence of heavy rubbing coats of varnish as the most enduring base for heavy finishing coats.

The final rubbing coat may best be applied with the vehicle body occupying its natural position or, rather, the position it is to occupy when the coat of finishing goes on. This is the coat that is depended upon to reflect the outline and round out the fullness of the finishing varnish. The necessity of its being perfect in all the respects that it is possible to make a rubbing coat of varnish, is, therefore, apparent. The fact that varnish goes on pretty nearly everything, brightens it, keeps it clean and cleanable, covers it, takes the wear, prolongs its life, and increases its beauty and usefulness, furnishes the carriage painter with a substantial reason for insisting upon having his rubbing coats, from first to last, deftly placed and shrewdly balanced.

THE SURFACING OF RUBBING VARNISH.

When a rubbing varnish has been given the full limit of time recommended by the manufacturer in which to harden, surfacing should ensue. To permit such varnish to remain unprotected from the atmospheric impurities common to the average paint shop may be accepted as an actual detriment to the durability of the surface. The gums used in rubbing varnish and which unite to give it a surfacing property render the varnish when spread upon a surface peculiarly susceptible to the attacks of all forms of impurities. Hence the necessity of surfacing the rubbing coats as soon as they have been given adequate time to harden. The supporting strength and ability of such coats are thereby promoted.

To surface varnish correctly and at the minimum outlay of time, it is needful that a serviceable equipment of tools be furnished the workman. This should consist of at least two good pails (galvanized iron pails are probably the most economical), half dozen good, soft sponges, a water tool, and a few first-class chamois skins, in addition to plenty of rubbing pads. Rubbing pads are often shop made from waste cuttings of broadcloth or felt, the strips being rolled into cylindrical form or fastened around blocks of wood. However, the most effective rubbing pads are procurable direct from the manufacturers and come in the form of thick perforated pads, running in thickness from 3/8 to 1 inch, and in size from 2×3 inches to 3×4 inches. These perforated pads serve to free the surface from that part of the pulverized pumice stone which, during the process of rubbing, has become inert and a hindrance to the leveling efforts of the workman.

In surfacing, pulverized pumice stone of the 0 or 00 grade of fineness is best.

The water supply is an important factor in varnish surfacing, soft water being a highly-valued essential. A surface cleans up better with soft water than when the water used is hard. If plenty of soft water is not forthcoming, add a little soda to the water, say a teaspoonful of soda to an ordinary pail of water. This will reduce the harshness of the water.

The actual work of rubbing or surfacing varnish may be classed as an art. The first class varnish rubber is really an accomplished mechanic. Before beginning to rub a surface, first rinse it off with clean water. This by way of a precaution. Then dip the rubbing pad first lightly into the water to moisten it, and then into the pumice stone, thus carrying it to the surface where with light pressured sweeps it may be spread over a certain part of the surface. Rub lightly at first, gradually increasing the pressure until the necessary force is reached. First rub the outside edges of a panel and the mouldings, if any, finishing up the central part last. It will be found easier to get the center of a panel, or of a given portion of a surface, rubbed sufficiently than to get the outer edges of it done. If a large surface is being rubbed, first rub a certain space for a time and then shift to a new space, thus avoiding the possibility of unduly heating the surface. Alternate between the two spaces until the desired reduction of the surface has been reached. Upon surfaces which admit of carrying the rubbing strokes to the extreme end of the panel, the rubbing strokes being always directed lengthwise of the panel, do not cross rub at the ends. Cross rubbing at panel ends is invariably shunned by first-class factory varnish rubbers, and these specialists are deservedly classed as artists in their line. For example, upon piano box bodies the strokes are carried quite to the end of the panel, with no cross brushing tolerated. First coatings of varnish do not invite very close surfacing. The second coat permits, and should receive, the solid and close surfacing. The final rubbing coat should properly require only a moderate degree of surfacing to make it fit to hold out the finishing coat with becoming comeliness. Avoid using too much pumice stone, too much water, or too much pressure on the pad; in a word, avoid excesses. Pumice stone and water should not be allowed to dry upon the surface. It is a hazardous practice. Have plenty of clean water at hand and wash the surface up tidily as fast as the rubbing proceeds. Adhere to uniformity and thoroughness in surfacing. The surface rubbed more closely in some places than in others, and not rubbed sufficiently thorough as to corners, border spaces, etc., bears the unmistakable imprint of the bungler's rude hand. Probably this rule of uniformity and thoroughness is the most difficult for the beginner to acquire. It really covers nearly the whole range of the art of fine surfacing. When one has mastered the feat of rubbing a surface to the same uniform depth of film, missing never a modest slip on molding, around bolt head, or other easily overlooked space, he has earned the right to strive for the expert's rank.

The surface once rubbed, washing up must needs follow. The workman cannot be too greatly impressed with the importance of this branch of the work. Thorough washing must necessarily accompany thorough rubbing; otherwise, the efforts of the rubber go for naught. To insure clean washing of the surface, clean tools must be maintained. The chamois skins, sponges, wash brushes, etc., require storage in some dust-proof receptacle. This may be in the form of a cupboard or small closet, or a bag made of light rubber cloth and provided with a shirring string. Wash these articles often in soap and water, rinsing carefully in clean water after applying and rubbing in the soap. This method will aid to keep them clean. With clean pails, clean water, and clean washing and drying tools, the task of washing a surface preparatory to varnishing is deprived of many of its menacing features. The final washing up should, in every instance, be performed with a pail, brush, chamois skin, and sponge kept expressly for that purpose and used for no other. Always keep in store a sponge and chamois skin to be used especially for washing and drying out the inside of vehicle bodies. Another set, separate and independent of the others, should be devoted solely to washing and drying up vehicle running parts for the varnisher. In cleaning up a carriage body for varnishing, first wash out the inside surface, tooling out all the corners, etc., with the water tool. Then apply plenty of water to the outside, washing the sill and border of the under surface of the body fully as free and clean as the more exposed parts. Thoroughly tool around all bolt-heads or other parts which offer a lodgment for atoms of pumice stone. After tooling about such surface fixtures, follow immediately with a sponge well loaded with water, thus flooding out the loosened accumulations of gritty matter. The body being finally washed clean, top, bottom, inside, and out, dry up carefully with the chamois skin, and then at once set away in that sacred place, the varnish room.

To summarize the features of surfacing varnish, note: First. Use roll or blocked broadcloth or felt rubbing pads.

Second. Direct the rubbing strokes all in one direction, and lengthwise of the panel.

Third. Avoid excessive use of pumice stone or water, and indulge in not too heavily applied pressure of the rubbing cloth. Moderate pressure, uniformly sustained, is the correct practice.

Fourth. Maintain constantly, and at all times, a conspicuously clean washing up kit; and in washing the surface do not stop short of having it unmistakably and shiningly clean.

Thereby hangs the tale of fine varnishing made easy.

If jobs are rubbed out of varnish and allowed to stand over night before being varnished, a final light rubbing should be given the surface just previous to applying the varnish. A surface when rubbed and stood aside for a short time takes on a scum which, if not removed, is fatal to good varnish-room results. This scum is said to be caused by the oxidation of the floating matter, from the oxide contained in it and the oxygen in the atmosphere. The scum acts in the nature of a deadly blight upon the varnish applied directly upon it, begetting many of what are commonly known as the depravities of varnish. Rotten stone applied and rubbed under a piece of carriage head-lining broadcloth makes an excellent polish to remove all scum from the surface.

FLOWING THE FINISHING COATS.

To accomplish high grade finishing, certain varnish room conditions must prevail. The varnish room must have plenty of light, ventilation, warmth, and dryness of atmosphere. Cleanliness must abound;—personal cleanliness, room cleanliness, and cleanliness of stock and tool equipment. Ventilation and light have already been alluded to. To sweep the varnish room floor, first profusely sprinkle with well dampened sawdust, and beginning at one side sweep in a windrow. Do not use much water upon the varnish room floor, unless it should chance to be a perfectly tight floor and fit to be mopped out occasionally. Then the mopping out should occur upon days when there is to be no varnishing done in the department. A thermometer to register the heat and a hygrometer to register the humidity should be inseparable inmates of the varnish room.

A cupboard set in even with the wall or partition of the room should contain clean cups, strainer, dusters, along with the brushes in their air-tight keepers. Maintain a uniform temperature of from 75° to 80° Fahr.

Insist upon the surfaces and the varnish to be applied to them being of the same degree of temperature. In this way only will varnish work at its best.

Remove the stopper from the varnish can a short time prior to beginning to varnish. This allows for the escape of certain gases generated in the varnish can.

Although the varnish maker may declare his varnishes do not need straining it is really the safer rule to strain all the finishing varnish before using. A majority of finishers in our best shops persist in the practice. Patent strainers are now on the market adopted for this very purpose. Cheese cloth, cut in squares and drawn over funnel-shaped tins, serves as cheap and quickly arranged strainers.

Be thorough and painstaking in dusting. After the first dusting go over the surface with a piece of silk. Next, give all spots rubbed through, or which promise to show badly under the varnish, a dash of color, immediately slicking these color patches over with a small piece of cotton rag. Now varnish the inside of the body, having previously, of course, rubbed or mossed off this part of the job, as the desired quality of the finish may dictate, and dusted it carefully. The inside surface being finished, again dust the outside surface. Then for the final dusting take a round or oval duster, kept expressly for the purpose, and, moistening the hollow of the left hand with a little finishing varnish, flick the point of the duster over this to furnish it with a dust attraction property, after which proceed at once to dust carefully the surface to be varnished.

The surface now being ready to finish, remove the brushes from the keeper, fill the varnish cup one-third full of the strained varnish, and follow this modus operandi, assuming, for example, the job to be of the piano box pattern: With the 1-inch badger hair brush lay the varnish along the bottom of the main panel, then across both ends, and lastly, along the top, taking in the seat riser while flowing the top edge. Then with the 2 1/2-inch brush flow, not brush, the varnish over the main surface space. Hold the brush, in flowing, rather flat. Keep it well charged with varnish, and pass it lightly and with a steady stroke from one end of the panel to the other, applying and laying off with horizontal strokes of the brush. From the brush held and directed in this way the varnish flows full and rich upon the surface, the distribution being more even and uniform, and less cross brushing becoming, therefore, assured. When the finishing brush is held at a steep angle, or in such a way that the points of the bristles are forced to mainly do the work, the varnish is whipped into motion to a harmful extent, requiring thereby more manipulation with the brush to get it evenly placed, and consequently destroying some of its natural fullness and brilliancy. The chief aim of the carriage finisher is to so first flow his varnish that the minimum outlay of cross brushing and dressing up will suffice, to the end that the varnish may be disturbed as little as possible, thus securing that depth of lustre and mirror-like effects so greatly cherished by all first-class finishers.

In varnishing piano style bodies and surfaces of close kith and kin to such, flow at least one side and an end before cross brushing and laying off. The varnish, by this method, is given time to take on a bit of "tack," as it were, and in cross brushing a less quantity is removed than would be the case if cross brushing were to follow directly upon completion of flowing the panel. After cross brushing and laying off, "catch up" the edges and all other places where the varnish is liable to start into a run or an overflow.

In varnishing surreys, phaetons, and jobs of that order, and larger, the varnisher should determine the amount of space he may flow before returning to cross brush, by the working qualities of his varnish, room temperature, and the prevailing circumstance at the time of varnishing.

After cross brushing, go over the panel but once in laying off. As before stated, and as expert carriage finishers everywhere will assert, the less brushing and disturbing of varnish, once it is flowed on the surface, the finer the body and brilliancy of the finish.

To become an expert body finisher the workman should possess varnish intelligence. He should know how to keep cool; be an absolute stranger to varnish fright, never lacking for confidence or ability to successfully meet and master emergencies as they arise. The art of varnishing cannot be acquired in a day, or an hour, or simply by a studious perusal of carefully worded directions. These serve as a working draft, but must be supplemented by long-continued practice, and, in case of carriage body finishing, coupled with a natural aptitude for the work.

VARNISHING RUNNING PARTS.

The running parts of a vehicle having rounded surfaces are more easily made to shine fine and mirror-like than are the body surfaces. However, the varnishing of running parts may rightfully be classed a highly skilled operation. Washing up and cleaning the running parts preparatory to varnishing is a difficult task. Around clips, bolt heads, axle ties, etc., pumice stone and dirt accumulations cling tenaciously, and thorough tooling with the wash brush and plenty of water is needed to fit such parts for varnishing. After washing, and once dusting over the running parts, touch with color all reaches of surface requiring it. When color patches are dry take a second duster, kept for this one dusting only, flip it lightly over the varnish-moistened left palm, and go over the surface carefully. If a particularly fine job, pass over the surface with the palms of the hands, having previously given them a slight wetting with the finishing varnish. This method illustrates the power of magnetic influence, and catches up flotillas of dust motes which the duster would possibly disturb, but not remove. In finishing the gear begin at the front axle and proceed to flow the whole front end before wiping up. This gives the varnish a chance to take its position on the surface, and the wiping up serves to level out the inequalities and remove the surplus. After the front, the rear, then the reach, and last the side bars, if any. A brush should be kept solely to wipe up the underside of axles, head blocks, spring bars, side bars, etc. In many factory shops the finishers wipe such parts with the palm of their hand. The varnish drippings are thus caught by the hand and distributed in the form of a glaze to the parts in question.

In varnishing wheels, which are always included in the term running parts, slip the wheel upon the revolving jack and, standing with the left side nearest the wheel and partly facing it, begin by flowing the sides and face of the spokes, reaching the brush well over to the back surface of the spokes. Then flow front of hub. Next the inside and face of the felloe. Now whirl the wheel so that its rear surface takes the place of the front. Catch up and close in with varnish all strips on the rear surface of spokes not flowed when the sides were done. Then flow rear of hub, and lastly, the back surface of felloe. Reverse position of wheel, slick up all places needing it, and set away on a second wheel jack, giving the wheel a sharp spin to better hold the flowed-on varnish in place. Four wheel jacks are necessary to flow wheels properly. Then, when the fourth jack is occupied, the wheel first done, having been given a good spinning and at least three half turns, may be set away in the rack, subject to no danger from runs or sags. When applying rubbing varnish it is advisable to flow not more than six or eight spokes before wiping up. About this proportion of surface for flowing and then wiping up should control in applying rubbing varnish to running parts.

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