Difficult to harness.—Place the trap in the centre of the enclosure, and drive the horse, on foot, with the long reins, all about it, and back him between the shafts, so that he may get accustomed to it. We may then tie up one fore-leg, apply the rope-twitch, and have the horse harnessed by drawing up the cart, while he is kept standing still. After repeating this, once or twice, the leg may be let down, and the harnessing performed as before. After the horse has become quite steady, he may be backed into the shafts. Or, we may put the strait-jacket on over the harness, make the horse lie down two or three times with it, and having got him on to his feet again, draw the traces of the strait-jacket so tight, that, if he attempt to move, he will fall down. While keeping him in this position, we may try to bring the shafts over his back, letting him fall if he begins to struggle. In the great majority of cases, the horse will quickly learn to regard the falling down as a punishment for his unsteadiness, which he cannot resist; and will accordingly give in, and stand quietly. After he does so, we may gradually slacken out the traces of the strait-jacket, until we can remove this apparatus altogether. We may tie up the leg, or employ the rope-twitch, as may be advisable. For safety sake, in single harness, we should use a kicking-strap. If the animal is very determined in his resistance, we may take the obstinacy out of him, by making him lie down, and keeping his head turned round (see page 158).

Difficult to unharness.—Use the rope-twitch, which will be sufficient in almost all cases. To prevent the animal springing forward, we may employ the strait-jacket, or make him lie down.

Getting the tail over the rein and kicking.—I regret to say that I know no means of permanently breaking a horse of the habit of whisking his tail over the rein, at times, when it is within reach. We may, however, by driving the animal on foot, and accustoming him to bear the rein under the tail, or by using the rope-twitch (see page 113), teach the horse not to kick, when he finds the rein in that position. I presume that the horse might be taught, by the rope-twitch, not to whisk his tail over the rein, on feeling it touch his hind-quarters; although, not having practically tested this expedient, I cannot speak positively as to its merits. I have rendered several animals that were previously addicted to the habit in question, quiet when the rein got under their tails, or touched their quarters, by the means described; and by gentling those parts when the animal was tied head and tail (see page 203). I have met some cases, in which the kicking was caused by pain due to pressure on melanotic tumours that were on the under surface of the dock.

Hanging against the pole.—The remedy, here, would be driving with the long reins. For the first few times that the animal was driven with another horse, he might have a pair of reins to himself, as well as the pair which connects him to his fellow.

Jibbing.—We should break the unharnessed horse of jibbing in the manner described in Chapter XII., and may then put him in a light trap, inside the enclosure, and try to circle him, with the long reins, on the side to which he more readily bends. Having accomplished this, we should endeavour to get him, by a wide sweep, to turn to the other rein, and, if we are successful, should circle him freely in it; turning and changing him, as we may deem advisable. If the animal remain obstinate, we should take him out, and put him again through the necessary discipline of the long reins; or we may keep him on the ground with his head turned round (see Chapter XII.). As soon as we think he has given in, we may put him into the shafts, and give him another trial. In attempting to start, or turn the animal, we should, on no account, use the whip, except, perhaps, to crack it; but should continue to pull the horse’s head from side to side with the reins, so as to make him strike off in the desired direction. I think it best to refrain from speaking to the horse, while all this is being done. When the horse circles and turns with perfect obedience to the rein, we may, while keeping him at a walk, get an assistant to quietly mount into the trap, and give him the reins, as soon as the animal shews that he does not mind his presence behind him. The horse may now be taken into the open, and circled and turned by the man in the cart, a few times, before being taken for a steady drive.

Before the animal is harnessed, we should satisfy ourselves that the jibbing is not caused by any ailment, such as sore shoulders, which should be cured before we proceed further.

We should be careful not to use any words, or other signals that might remind the animal of previous acts of disobedience which, presumedly, had been successful in their object. As before remarked, I like to use, when breaking a horse of jibbing, a plain bridle; because I find animals go kinder without blinkers, than with them.

If a jibber appears afraid of the whip, it is well, in the first instance, to prove to him (see page 241) that we are not going to hurt him, when we crack it, or flourish it about.

Kicking.—We should put the animal through the course of discipline described in Chapter IX. The strait-jacket put on loosely, or the kicking-strap, will prevent him doing any mischief. Before putting the animal between the shafts, he should be well driven with the long reins, for from thirty minutes, to an hour; so that he may pay attention to the indications of the rein. If he persists in kicking, he should be made to lie down, and, then, gentled on the ground; or he may be kept down with his head turned round (see page 158) until he gives in. Mr. Mitchell, A.V.D., who is an excellent breaker, tells me that he has obtained admirable results with bad kickers, by fixing, parallel to their sides, two stout poles, each about 7 feet long, secured in front of the chest and behind the quarters, so that the animal cannot get free from them; and then letting him kick, till he is tired. This method, by giving the horse nothing to kick at, will soon teach him the uselessness of doing so. In most cases, I would be inclined to use the rope-twitch, in order to make the horse learn the salutary lesson of connecting, in his own mind, the idea of punishment, with the practice of his favourite vice.

The old expedient of tying a kicker’s tail to the splinter bar, is often successful in breaking the animal of this objectionable habit. In other cases, it serves only to aggravate the vice. The tail may, here, be easily secured by a double sheet bend (see Fig. 30).

Lying down.—The habit of lying down in harness, is, no doubt, in many instances, difficult to cure. To accomplish this end, particular attention should be paid to making the animal obey the indications of the rein, by driving him on foot with the long reins. The trap used to practise him in, should be a very light, two-wheeled one. If he lies down, a sharp slap on his muzzle will generally make him jump up. The lesson, of course, should be given in the enclosure. In extreme cases, he should be put through the discipline detailed for jibbing.

Plunging forward at starting.—Use the rope-twitch (see page 113); or drive the animal, in the enclosure, on foot, with the long reins, while he is in the trap, after having given him a good long mouthing lesson (see page 172), and practise him at circling, turning, starting, and pulling up.

Pulling away from the pole.—See that the coupling chain is not too tight. Treat as for “Hanging against the pole” (page 236).

Undue fear of the whip.—Circle the horse with the long reins on foot (see page 172), and get an assistant to crack the whip all about him, without touching him with it, until he ceases to mind it; or do so, while he is tied head and tail. An application or two of the rope-twitch (see page 113) will expedite matters. The breaker should “make much of” the horse, when the animal stands quietly under the provocation given.