The place which I prefer to all others, for breaking a horse to harness, is an enclosure about thirty yards square, the ground of which is level, and hard enough to allow the wheels to run smoothly.

Whether intended partially for saddle purposes, or not, I would advise that the horse should be broken in the manner already described, before trying him between the shafts. Before putting him in, we should circle him for half-an-hour or more, with the long reins on foot (see page 172), and get an assistant, while the animal is going round, to gentle him under the belly and about the hind-quarters, as recommended by Pratt and others, with a long pole, without hurting him, so as to accustom him to its touch. The whip should also be cracked about the horse, without hitting him, until he ceases to mind its noise. If the horse resents these operations, which inflict no pain on him, the rope-twitch (see page 113) may be employed to enforce the required obedience; or the animal may be made to lie down (see page 153), and gentled. When the horse has been made quiet, he will readily take to double harness if put alongside a steady break-horse for a few times, and, when accustomed to this work, will, as a rule, go by himself without any trouble; although he may be a little awkward at first. If we want to put the animal into single harness, right off, and if we have got the gear at hand, we may harness the horse, put the strait-jacket over the harness, buckling it up, just tight enough, to prevent him kicking when it is on; and then drive him, on foot, with the long reins passed through the shaft-tugs, for a short time. We may now put him into the shafts of some suitable, light two-wheeled trap, retaining the strait-jacket over the harness. Two assistants, one on each side, may be employed to hold separate reins attached to the snaffle, while the driver stands on the near side, on about a line with the wheels, holding another pair of reins, which pass through the rings of the pad, and are, of course, fixed to the snaffle. If sufficient help be at hand, it is an advantage to have two other assistants to hold the traces of the strait-jacket ready to let out or draw tight, as may be required. After the horse has gone quietly for a bit, the strait-jacket may be removed, a kicking-strap substituted, and, after a little, an assistant may be put on the driving seat, with all proper precaution. When the horse has thoroughly settled down to his work, the breaker may get on to the seat, and dispense with the help of the other men, if he sees fit. With one man to hold the rope-twitch, and with the aid of a kicking-strap, the breaker, if expert, may easily manage to put a horse in single harness for the first time. In an enclosure such as I have described, the breaker may circle the horse in the trap, with the long reins on foot, by himself, and, in a short time, after the animal has settled down, he may get an assistant to sit in the trap. When the horse is found to go quietly inside the enclosure, he may be tried outside. I think it always the best and easiest plan to break a horse to harness, without blinkers.