  pipe trap p trap The art of working in lead is older than the pyramids. For thousands of years hydraulics and plumbing as an occupation engaged the principal attention of engineers. King David used lead pipe, so did Archimedes; the terraces and gardens of Babylon were supplied with water through leaden pipes. Steam fitting, with galvanized pipe and an elaborate system of connections and devices is a new department of mechanism—almost of the present generation—and at first sight would seem able soon to supercede lead piping of all kinds, but it is safe to say that nothing can ever take the place of lead, for this admirable metal can be made to answer where no other material can be worked; for instance, lead pipe can be made to conform to any angle or obstruction where no other system of piping will. Hence, plumbing as a useful and ornamental art will never go out of date, and engineers of every branch will do well to study its principles and methods so as to meet the ever-recurring and perplexing questions connected with sewerage, water supply, etc. s trap Every engineer should at least know how 1, to join lead pipe—to make a “wipe joint,”—as in a hundred emergencies this knowledge will be of worth. 2, how to make a temporary stopping of leaks; 3, how to bend pipe with sand or springs; 4, how to “back air pipes” from sinks; 5, how to use force pumps; 6, how to arrange the circulating pipes in hot-water boilers; 7, how to make solder; 8, how to repair valves, etc., etc. PIPING AND DRAINAGE.The three illustrations on page 298 are designed to represent traps set in lead pipe and show vividly the difference between this material and iron piping. Fig. 159. Lead is one of the elementary substances of which the world is formed; it ranks with gold, silver, tin, etc., in being an unmixed metal. It melts at about 617° Fahrenheit, and is, bulk for bulk, 114/10 heavier than water (gold being 175/10 heavier and wrought iron 77/10 heavier). The tenacity of lead is extremely low, a wire 1/18th of an inch breaks with a weight of 28 lbs.; in comparison, its tenacity is only one-twentieth that of iron; it is so soft that it may be scratched with the thumb nail. If a very strong heat is applied lead boils and evaporates; it transmits heat very slowly; of seven common metals it is the worst conductor, therefore it is good for hot water pipes. Mixed with a sufficient quantity of quicksilver it remains liquid. An advantage to be found in the use of lead is its durability and comparative freedom from repairs. In London, soil and drain water pipes which have been fixed 300 to 500 years are as Fig. 159 represents the general system of house piping and drainage applicable also to shops, public buildings, etc. A exhibits the drain or sewer. A-C represents the sewer connection, so called with a running trap, B. “C” at the end of the lower pipe exhibits a soil pipe elbow, with hand hole for cleaning out closed by a screw plug. This drain should have a regular fall or inclination and this elbow provides for that. C-D shows the rain water leader (conductor). E and F is a soil pipe 3, 4, 5, or 6 inches in diameter. Note, pipes draining water closets are called “soil pipes”; those draining other fixtures “waste pipes.” N and O represent water-closet flanges; F and H are roof connections; L exhibits double and single Y branches to receive waste-pipes from baths, bowls, or sinks. The plumber makes this connection, always trapping the lead waste-pipe and then soldering it to a brass nipple. LEAD PIPE JOINTS.Fig. 160. It has been remarked that after learning how to make “a wipe joint,” everything is easy relating to the plumber’s trade; hence, the importance of the following directions. To learn the art, previous practice with short pieces of pipe is recommended. This trial piece can be clamped as shown in Fig. 160 and used over and over until practice has been had. There are many names for the process of lead joint-making, such as the flow-joint, the ribbon joint, the blown joint, the astragal joint, etc., to express the different positions and uses 1. The lead pipe to be joined is sawn square off with the proper toothed saw—attention being paid to making the end absolutely true, across the pipe. 2. One end of the pipe to be joined is first opened by driving in a wooden wedge, shaped like a plumb-bob, called the “turn pin.” Care should be exercised at this time not to split the end, 1/4 inch opening is usually enough, which leaves the pipe as shown at D, Fig. 161. Now, clean the internal part of the joint all around the part required for soldering—this cleaning can be done with the plumber’s shave hook or with a pocket knife. To complete this preparation “touch” the part with grease from a tallow candle. 3. Next is the preparation of the male part of the joint. This must be rasp-filed down to fit the enlarged opening. It is important to have a good fit throughout; hence, inside the enlarged opening must be also rasp-filed and the two surfaces to come nicely together before the solder is applied. 4. At this stage a paste called “plumber’s soil” must be applied outside 3 inches from the end of each piece of pipe; this is shown by the line E F in Fig. 161, also at A B, Fig. 160; the line of the soiling should be very even and true in order to assure a workmanlike job and the soiling put on as before stated, 3 to 5 inches beyond the solder line on each side. As the melting point of lead is 612 degrees or thereabouts, it is necessary to have solder melt at a lower temperature, and that made under the rule given will melt at 440 to 475 degrees. No tool to a plumber is more important than the cloth used in joint making. To make it, take a piece of new mole skin or fustian, of moderate thickness, 12 inches long by 9 inches wide, fold it up one side 4 inches; then 4 inches again, and again 4 inches; then fold it in the middle, which will make your cloth 4 × 41/2 inches, and of 6 thickness. After this is done, sew up the ragged ends to keep it from opening. Then pour a little hot tallow on one side and the cloth is ready for use. In Fig. 160-a is shown, H, a hand holding the cloth C in the process of “wiping the joint,” which will now be described. First place a small piece of paper under the joint to catch the surplus solder D and begin soldering as follows: Take the felt F in the right hand and with it hold the ladle three parts full of solder. To see that it is not too hot hold your hand within 2 inches or so of the solder; if it quickly burns your hand it is too hot; if you can only just hold your hand this distance, use it; but if you cannot feel the heat, the solder is too cold. When you begin to pour your solder upon the joint do it very lightly and not too much at a time in one place, but keep the ladle moving backward and forward, pouring from E to J, first on one side of the joint to the other and from end to end. Pour also an inch or two up the soiling, as shown at E to make the pipe of proper temperature, i.e., to the same heat as the solder. The further, in reason, the heat is run or taken along the pipe, the better the chance of making the joint. Fig. 160-a. Keep pouring and with the left hand hold the cloth C to catch the solder and also cause the same to tin the lower side of the pipe and to keep the solder from dropping down. This cloth, so important in joint making is elsewhere described. By the process of steady pouring the solder now becomes nice and soft and begins to feel shaped, firm and bulky. When in this shape and in a semi-fluid condition quickly put the ladle down, and instantly with the left hand shape one side of the joint always beginning at the outsides, or at that part The secret of joint making is getting the lead to the heat of the solder and in roughly shaping the solder, while in the semi-fluid state. Good mechanical fitting is the result of two things—good judgment and a delicate sense of touch. Repairing Pipes with Putty Joints.Fig. 161. First get the pipe thoroughly dried, and with some quick drying gold size paint the part to be repaired; then get some white lead and stiffen it with some powdered red lead, so as to make it a hardish putty, place a thin layer of this, say 3/8th inch to 1/2 inch in thickness, over the bursted part of the pipe, and with some good strong calico, painted with the gold size, neatly wrap the red lead to the pipe, using 3 or 4 thicknesses of the painted calico; then with some twine begin at one end, laying the twine in several layers in rotation until it has, like the calico, several thicknesses. If properly done this will be strong enough to withstand any ordinary pressure on the pipes and if more is required the putty can be made from dry red lead and gold size. In making all white and red lead joints, first, see that the parts are thoroughly dry; second, see that the parts are not dirty with rust, &c.; next, well paint the parts with good, stiff paint before putting the putty on to form the joint. BENDING LEAD PIPE.If any ordinary piece of light lead pipe 11/2 inches in diameter is taken and pulled or bent sharply around it will crimple or crinkle at the throat; the larger and thinner the pipe the more it will become distorted. There are many methods of making these bends in lead pipe, some with dummies, others with bolts, balls, etc., others cut the bends at the back, at the throat, or the two sides of the bend. For small pipes, such as 1/2 to 1 inch and extra heavy, they may be pulled round without trouble or danger, but for a little larger size SAND BENDING is largely practiced as follows: Take the length of pipe, say 5 feet, fill and well ram it with sand 2 feet up, then have ready a metal pot of very hot sand to fill the pipe 1 foot up, next fill the pipe up with more cold sand, ramming it as firmly as possible, stop the end and pull round the pipe, at the same time hammering quickly working the lead from the throat towards the back, which can be done if properly worked. N. B.—Care must be used not to reduce or enlarge the size of the bore at the bend. Bending with Water.—It is a well-known fact that for such work, water is incompressible, but may be turned or twisted about for any shape provided it is enclosed in a solid case. To make the bend—the end of the pipe is stopped and a stop cock soldered into the other end; take the pipe at the end and pull it around, being careful that the water does not cool and shrink, and hammering quickly to take out the crinkle. Bending with Balls.—This method is practiced with small pipe and also to take “dints” out in case of sand and water bending when a ball is sent through. Method: suppose the pipe to be two inches, then a ball is required 1/16 in. less than the pipe, so that it will run through the pipe freely. Now pull the pipe round until it just begins to flatten, put the ball into the pipe and with some short pieces of wood, say 2 in. long by 11/2 in. in diam., force the ball through the dented part of the pipe. The ball will run through all the easier if “touched” over with a candle end. Care must be used in forcing the ball back and forth not to drive it through the bend. Table.—Weight of Sheet Lead.
Sheet lead is sometimes made as thin as writing paper. Plumber’s Solder.Rule for making.—Take 100 lbs. good old lead or lead cuttings, run it down thoroughly, stir it up and take off all dirt or dross: then take 50 lbs. pure tin, let this run down, and when nearly all is melted and is a little cooler throw in 1/2 lb. of black rosin, and well stir the lot up. Last bring up the heat to 600 degrees which may be known by the burning of a bit of newspaper put in the pot. The solder is now hot enough and should be well stirred and then run into moulds. PLUMBER’S TOOLS.The processes of lead working are executed by manual dexterity acquired by long practice, and to do the work properly requires many special tools. Some of these are used in common with other departments of mechanics, but are none the less necessary in lead working. We present cuts of the principal tools used, some of which are self-explaining, and some are named with further description of particular use. Fig. 162. Fig. 162 represents one form of the plumber’s tap borer or reamer used for making and enlarging holes in pipe. Fig. 163. Fig. 163 represents plumber’s snips. Fig. 164. Fig. 164 is the well-known and always useful ladle. Fig. 165. Fig. 165 is the round nose pein hammer, used in plumber’s work to open the inside pipe before jointing. Fig. 166. Fig. 166 is the plumb bob. The same cut will also convey an idea of the wooden instrument used to force open the pipe before jointing, i.e., “the turn pin.” Fig. 167. Fig. 167 represents “the round nose chisel.” Fig. 168. Fig. 168 is the “wood chisel” used in cutting away wood work. Fig. 169. Fig. 169 is the well-known “cape chisel.” Fig. 170. Fig. 170 is the half round chisel. Fig. 171. Fig. 171 is the equally well-known “flat cold chisel.” Fig. 172. Fig. 172 is the “diamond point chisel.” Fig. 173. Fig. 173 shows a rivet set for small work connected with plumbing and sheet metal work. Fig. 174. Fig. 174 exhibits the plumber’s torch; this is also used by engineers to explore interiors of boilers, chimney flues, and other dark places about the steam plant. Fig. 175 is a compass saw. Fig. 176 is a double-edged plumber’s saw. Fig. 177 is a spirit level. Fig. 178 is a looking-glass used in making underhand joints and in many useful ways about a steam plant. Fig. 175. Fig. 176. Fig. 177. Fig. 178. Fig. 179. Fig. 179 is a caulking tool. Fig. 180. Fig. 180 is a gasket chisel. Fig. 181. Fig. 181 is a soldering tool known among plumbers as “a copper pointed bolt.” Fig. 182. Fig. 182 is a copper-pointed bolt, flat. Fig. 183. Fig. 183 represents a hanger, for suspending iron and lead pipe; its excellence consists in enabling pipes to be raised or lowered after being hung without taking the hanger apart. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
