Rustic Carpentry :: CHAPTER XIII. SUMMER-HOUSES.

CHAPTER XIII. SUMMER-HOUSES.

The lean-to summer-house shown by Fig. 158 is intended for a small garden. Perhaps in no better way can a dead wall or the back of some unsightly outhouse be better utilised than as the background for such a building. The dimensions of the structure are: length, 8 ft.; breadth, 3 ft. 3 in.; height, 8 ft.

Fig. 158.—Lean-to Summer-house. Fig. 158.—Lean-to Summer-house.

Fig. 159.—Ground Plan of Lean-to Summer-house. Fig. 159.—Ground Plan of Lean-to Summer-house.

Its general arrangement is seen in the ground plan (Fig. 159). Four pillars, A, B, B, A, occupy the front. These are poles 3½ in. or 4 in. in diameter. Any rough and tolerably straight wood will do, but larch is to be preferred. These rise 5 ft. above ground, and should not have less than 2 ft. below the surface. The dwarf pillars C supporting the seat are of similar stuff, but rather smaller. They show 14 in. above, and should be buried about 9 in. below ground. The pilasters D are of rather larger stuff sawn in half. These are only 5 ft. long, as they need not enter into the ground, being fixed only by strong nails to the wall.

Fig. 160.—Elevation of Inside of End of Lean-to Summer-house. Fig. 160.—Elevation of Inside of End of Lean-to Summer-house.

The ends of the summer-house (the space from A to D) are of smaller half-stuff, ranged side by side (as seen at E, E), and nailed to the cross-pieces, F and G, which appear in Fig. 160. In this last-named figure also appears one of the wall-plates, resting on and nailed to the tops of the pillars (H, at Fig. 160), and at I is seen where one of the front wall-plates meets it. There are two of these front wall-plates, each resting on the two pillars to right and left of the entrance, and their inner ends appear in Fig. 158, where the ends of the purlins which form the small gable rest upon them. The wall-plates are of large half-stuff, with the flat side above. In Fig. 160 will be seen how the short cross-piece which carries the sloping end of the roof is supported; and Fig. 161, which is a section through the centre of the building, explains how the ridge-piece of the small gable, E, rests at its inner end on a crosspiece M from rafter to rafter, seen in section only, whilst N shows the point at which the purlins meet and support the ridge-piece towards its outer end. The intersection of the diagonal braces in the gable is indicated at O, and P shows the course of one of the rafters, and how its upper end rests against the wall, and upon a ridge-piece of half-stuff, Q, strongly nailed to the masonry.

The elevation (Fig. 158) explains pretty clearly the ornamental details of the front. They are not elaborate. It will be seen that the top of each pillar has a small cap, formed of four pieces of quartered stuff, mitred at the corners, and that across the opening on each side of the entrance, near the top, is a "transom" of straight wood, with a little arrangement of crooked bangles round it. Over the entrance are diagonal braces crossing, and also a little filling-in with bangles. The entrance is 5 ft. 10 in. high.

In order that an ornamental and appropriate lining may be given to the back of our summer-house, it is recommended to plug the wall, and nail over it a level covering of thin boards—say, ½-in. matchboarding. Upon this the decorative work can be bradded. The back of the seat is shown in Fig. 158 to be of rustic mosaic. Above this, as well as under the seats, a covering of bark has been introduced. British-grown bark, such as elm, can be made to lie flat, but as in any but rural districts this may be difficult to get, virgin cork may be made to take its place.

Fig. 160 gives an inside view of one of the ends, and from this it will be seen that the ornamentation of those parts varies little from that of the back. The lower band, however, answering to the strip under the seats, is not bark, which, in this place, would be liable to be kicked and destroyed by the feet, but of smaller half-stuff, so arranged as to break joint with the outside pieces. This will be seen by referring to the ground plan. Any chinks in the ends should be neatly tucked with moss, so as to make them wind-proof.

The roof is of wooden shingles—things which any rough hand at carpentry can prepare and put on for himself. As will be seen from Fig. 158, it is easy to give an ornamental character to these. They will have a rustic look, which will go well with other parts of the structure, and, if clumsily made, the effect will be none the worse. For the present purpose, suppose the shingles to be 12 in. by 4 in. The lower ends may be sawn to a variety of ornamental shapes.

If this covering is used, instead of nailing laths across the rafters, it is proposed to cover the whole roof with similar boarding to the back, and upon this it is a simple thing to nail the shingles, placing them just as tiles might be placed. Whilst nailing them on, it will be necessary to have some person within to hold a heavy hammer against the place, otherwise the vibration will jar off the shingles as fast as they are fixed. A ¾-in. board, rather wider than half the length of the shingles, should first be nailed along the eaves to make up the required thickness.

Fig. 161.—Section through Centre of Lean-to Summer-house. Fig. 161.—Section through Centre of Lean-to Summer-house.

It will be noticed that the ends of the rafters are made to project so as to give a good breadth of eaves—a desirable feature in so narrow a building, alike for shade, shelter, and the appearance of cosiness. If, however, the roof should be thatched, the projecting rafters will be unnecessary, as the thatch alone will form sufficient eaves.

Down the "valleys" at the juncture of the main roof and the entrance gable a strip of zinc will, of course, be nailed before the shingles are put on, whilst along the ridges a strip of zinc will be nailed upon the shingles; and this latter will need painting to match the colour of the wood.

Various suggestions may be given for finishing the inside of the roof. Supposing that round or half-round larch stuff has been used for the rafters (the latter is to be preferred for shingles, as giving a level surface to board upon), the space between the rafters may be covered with bark—virgin cork or otherwise—the chinks being stuffed with moss. But if this is done it will be well to fix the bark with screws, as the vibration caused by driving nails would displace or loosen the shingles.

A second plan under the like circumstances would be before nailing the boards upon the rafters to stretch matting across the latter—either ordinary garden bast matting or, better, the more substantial rush matting, both of which are very inexpensive. These have a pleasant natural colour (the last-named especially, of a greenish hue), and are so unartificial in their structure as to appear in no way out of place among rustic work.

Or it may so happen that suitable larch stuff is not to hand, and that ordinary sawn scantling has to be used for the rafters. If so, the whole roof may be hung with ling; or the rush matting may be stretched across the lower side of the rafters and tacked there, being afterwards more completely secured and finished by nailing a split hazel or other rod down the middle of each rafter. This last plan makes a neat and pleasing roof.

Fig. 162. Fig. 162.	Fig. 163. Fig. 163.
Figs. 162 and 163.—Front and Side Elevations of Shelter for Tennis Lawn.

Fig. 164.—Part Roof, Seat, and Floor Plans for Tennis Lawn Shelter. Fig. 164.—Part Roof, Seat, and Floor Plans for Tennis Lawn Shelter.

It scarcely needs to be said that to make such a summer-house look its best the wall on each side ought to be covered with ivy or other creepers; and it will also be obvious that, if the height of the wall permits the floor of the summer-house to be raised a step or two above the surrounding level, the structure will gain thereby both in effectiveness of appearance and in pleasantness as a place in which to sit.

Fig. 167. Fig. 167.
Fig. 168. Fig. 168.	Fig. 170. Fig. 170.	Fig. 165. Fig. 165.
		Fig. 166. Fig. 166.
		Fig. 169. Fig. 169.
Fig. 165.—Connecting Plates to Corner Post. Fig. 166.—Fixing Sleeper to Posts. Fig. 167.—Section of Flooring. Fig. 168.—Finial. Fig. 169.—Detail of Garden Shelter at Front Eaves. Fig. 170.—Section of Seat.

The rustic summer-house or tennis lawn shelter illustrated in front and side elevations by Figs. 162 and 163 is constructed from straight saplings and twigs that have had their bark removed, and have been subjected to a reasonable period of seasoning. A new feature in the design is the accommodation under the seats for the reception of the croquet or tennis gear, and also the extended eaves and floor (see Fig. 164) and the open front, giving at once an uninterrupted view of the game and shelter from the direct rays of the sun.

The shelter is 10 ft. long by 5 ft. 6 in. wide, the height from the floor to the eaves being 6 ft. 3 in., and from the floor to the ridge 9 ft. The four posts are 6 ft. 9 in. long by 6 in. in diameter. The middle and lower end and the back rails are tenoned to the posts, a flat being formed on the post by the mortise and a corresponding shoulder on the rails. The remaining portion is worked to fit roughly the contour of the post.

The plates are 5 in. by 5 in. in section, and are secured to the posts with long galvanised bolts and nuts and a 3½-in. square washer under the heads of the bolts. When halving the front plate, allow it to house into the side plates 1½ in.; by this method it will have a bearing on both posts. In Fig. 165 the left-hand plate represents the front. The front posts are connected at the floor line by a scantling, 4 in. by 3 in., which also forms a sleeper for the floor joists; see Figs. 166 and 167.

The structure rests on a low plinth of bricks, spaces being left for the circulation of air under the floor.

The extended floor also rests on bricks placed immediately below the joists; see Fig. 167, which is a section on C D (Fig. 164). The twig plinth nailed around the front will effectually conceal the sleeper and brick foundation.

The rafters are 2½ in. by 3 in., and the ridge and hip rafters 2 in. by 5 in., the finials (see Fig. 168) being nailed between the angles of the hips. The eaves in front project 2 ft. beyond the posts, and Fig. 169 shows the method by which the additional width is obtained.

Fig. 171.—Strapping Cushion to Seat. Fig. 171.—Strapping Cushion to Seat.

Fig. 172.—Front Elevation of Octagonal Summer-house. Fig. 172.—Front Elevation of Octagonal Summer-house.

The sides are filled with ⁵/8-in. vee-grooved and tongued boarding, to which is attached the rustic work.

The stained glass windows are fixed, and on the outer side of the back are diagonal braces made from split saplings, while in the centre a vertical post runs from sill to plate.

The braces and post are shown in the plan (Fig. 164).

The seats are constructed to form lockers (see Fig. 170, which is a section at A B, Fig. 164), their height being 1 ft. 3 in., which, with the addition of a 3-in. cushion, will form comfortable sitting accommodation.

The cushions are retained in place by straps passing through slots and fastening over suitable studs on the under side; see Fig. 171. This method provides a means of easily removing and quickly replacing the cushions when required for use. A space of 3 in., or a distance equal to the thickness of the cushions, must be left at the sloping back, to allow the seat to open properly.

The nature of the locker is partly concealed by the rustic work of split twigs that is nailed to the front.

Next fix the lattice work between the finials and under the front plate. The short struts on the front posts are more for effect than for any real support.

The roof is boarded on the inside, the work being carried on the rafters as far as the collar ties, and continued flat on these. Moulding is fixed in the angles formed between the rafters and ties, and a cornice is fixed at the plates. The heels of the rafters and plates are also boarded around, as shown in Fig. 169.

The roof may be covered with thatch of wheat, straw, reeds, broom, or heather, and the whole of the woodwork visible should be varnished.

The summer-house illustrated by Fig. 172 is suited to a garden of moderate size, one in which space is not so restricted as to necessitate crowding the building close against a wall. This octagonal summer-house has a continuous seat some 15 ft. long. From side to side each way it measures 10 ft. Fig. 172 is an elevation of the front of the house.

Fig. 173. Fig. 173.

Fig. 174. Fig. 174.
Fig. 173.—Ground Plan of Octagonal Summer house.
Fig. 174.—Section of Octagonal Summer-house at Y Z (Fig. 173), showing Framework.

Its framework and the main part of it are of larch poles; other woods are, however, used for minor purposes. The roof is of thatch. In the arrangement of this building there is a certain resemblance to a tent. It has a central pillar, A, not unlike a tent pole, which sustains much of the weight of the roof. Being of first importance, this pillar is somewhat larger than any of the other timbers—say 6 in. in diameter near its bottom, and tapering as little as may be. A rod of iron or wood rises from its top to form the centre of the straw pinnacle seen crowning the roof in Fig. 172. This pillar shows a height of 11 ft. 2 in. above ground, and it should be let 3 ft. or more into the soil; for it will need to be firmly fixed, or it may be forced out of the perpendicular during the erection of the roof; when the roof timbers are once fixed in place, it will have little further chance of moving. The diagram Fig. 173 is a ground plan, and Fig. 174 is a section showing the timbers from the interior; both are drawn on a scale of ¼ in. to the foot.

The eight collar-posts (B, Figs. 173 and 174) at the corners of the octagon are of somewhat smaller stuff—say 4 in. They show 6 ft. above ground, and should have 2 ft. below. It will be well to gas-tar all the underground work.

The ground plan of a building in this shape is readily laid out. The space being levelled, a string is taken which has a loop at each end, and is 5 ft. 2 in. long. With a stake driven through the loop at one end as a centre, and with a stick passed through the loop at the other to serve as the travelling leg of the compasses, a circle is struck 10 ft. 4 in. in diameter, and into this pegs are driven at equal intervals (4 ft. apart) to mark the centres of the eight collar-posts. Whilst digging the holes for the posts, these points are kept by drawing two straight lines on the ground which intersect at the peg.

The cross-pieces which rest on the collar-posts, and which serve as wall-plates, are a trifle smaller stuff than the posts—say 3 in. Fig. 175 shows how they are cut to fit the tops of the posts, and nailed there. In this building there are no mortise and tenon joints. On these ends above the posts rest the lower ends of the eight main rafters, D, the upper ends of which rest against and are nailed to the central pillar. The eight intermediate rafters, E, rest at the bottom on the middles of the side plates, and at top are cut to fit upon and between the tops of the main rafters.

Fig. 175.—Collar Posts and Ends of Wall Plates. Fig. 175.—Collar Posts and Ends of Wall Plates.

Fig. 176.—Timbers over Entrance of Octagonal Summer-house. Fig. 176.—Timbers over Entrance of Octagonal Summer-house.

The laths used are in this case in no way particular—any sticks will do; they will not be seen, and under thatch there is no necessity that a level surface should be formed by them, as for slates or tiles. They are nailed 6 in. or 8 in. apart.

The gable over the entrance is arranged as in Fig. 176. The laths, when nailed on, will have to run over the little ridge formed by F, instead of keeping the level, as on the other sides. This will cause no special difficulties in the thatching.

The walls are of larch poles sawn in half. To split a number of heavy poles with the handsaw is tedious work, and it is better to get them run through by the nearest steam saw. The quantity of half-stuff required may be easily calculated; one of these sides will take about five and a half 6-ft. lengths of 4-in. stuff. The tops of these wall-pieces are sawn obliquely to fit against the round wall-plates to which they are nailed. In their lower parts they are nailed to the lower cross-pieces, G, G, G, Fig. 174.

These latter will best be made of rather large stuff quartered, since their upper sides on which the seat-boards rest should be level, as well as their backs, which go against the wall-pieces. The middle cross-pieces are of smaller half-stuff, and should be nailed to the wall-pieces rather than that the wall-pieces should be nailed to them; for they are in a conspicuous place, and nails driven through them and clenched would be unsightly.

The front supports of the seats are let into the ground some 6 in., and rise 14½ in. above the ground line. The seats should be cut from 1-in. board, and should be about 16½ in. wide.

In the two window sides of the octagon (see Figs. 177 and 172), the space below the windows is filled with whole poles, their bottoms resting on a sill let in level with the ground, and their tops nailed into through a cross-piece of half-stuff (K, Fig. 177). The mullions and transoms of the windows—mere sticks—are of small straight larch stuff, but the ornamental filling in above is of crooked branches—oak bangles by preference, though apple-wood would do very well. It often happens that an old apple-tree is cut down, and at once condemned as firewood; yet its stem may have grotesque knots, and its branches picturesque contortions which would make it valuable for rustic work. Whenever rustic building is contemplated, it is well that such wood should be laid by; a single tree would supply all the small quantity of crooked stuff that is required in the present instance. Even the interlaced stems of ivy, when an old growth has covered a wall, have sometimes been utilised to excellent effect.

It may be observed that any chinks between the pieces beneath the windows, as well as in the walls generally, are most readily and appropriately rendered wind-proof by neatly stuffing with moss. Fig. 177 gives a full front elevation of one of the window sides (they being only seen obliquely in Fig. 172), and it is on the ½-in. scale.

Four stout crooked pieces are used as struts to support the table (drawn to 1 in. scale in Figs. 178 and 179); 3/4-in. board will suffice for the top of this table, and it will probably be cut from two widths. To give proper strength to the ornamental border (seen in Fig. 179), a second thickness of the board is attached below each corner, extending 3 or 4 in. to each side, so as to allow each of the longer bits of split rod to be fixed, as shown, with two brads.

A really satisfactory material in which to finish the top of a rustic table is not easily found; it must give a level surface, and at the same time be in harmony with its surroundings. Board, planed or painted, oilcloth, or any manufactured material, is felt to be out of place; marble or slate looks cold and hard. Nothing that is absolutely level satisfies the requirements; the best alternative is rustic mosaic. By this is meant split rods of wood so bradded down as to form patterns. For the present purpose, however, the mosaic must be kept more neat and smooth than usual. Fig. 178 shows the top of the table thus treated.

The rods most in favour for rustic mosaic are those of the hazel. They are to be bought cheaply and abundantly when the undergrowth of woods is cut. They have a smooth and pretty bark, and the useful size is from ¾ in. to 1½ in. Sticks of other kinds of the same size can also be used: birch and wild cherry may be named among those with smooth bark, and wych elm and maple among those with rough; willow or withy, again, is of most common growth, and exceedingly useful. In river-side neighbourhoods it is often the cheapest and most plentiful of all woods. For mosaic work, it is always peeled, for its bark is unattractive, and its light colour when stripped makes it tell well in contrast to the dark bark of other woods. If used, as it often is, for outdoor purposes in garden carpentry, it should always be peeled. Country carpenters have a saying that withy lasts twice as long without its bark as with it; and in this there is much truth, for the loose bark holds the wet to the wood and causes it to rot. To make it peel freely, it should be cut just as the young leaves make their appearance. The like holds good with other woods; but if it is desired that the bark should hold firmly, the wood should be cut down in dead of winter, when all the sap is down.

Fig. 178. Fig. 178.

Fig. 179. Fig. 179.
Figs. 178 and 179.—Plan and Elevation of Table for Octagonal Summer-house.

The top of the table is supposed to be mainly composed of peeled withy. The pattern contains only the double dark line bounding the star and the single strip round the edge in hazel. So much white will not look amiss in this place, and withy is easily worked. Hazel and most woods twist so much in the grain that it is rarely safe to split them except with the saw, but withy—in short lengths like these, at least—can be split with a hatchet.

In rough carpentry there is no more pretty or interesting work than these mosaics. The backs of the seats (Fig. 180), and the seats themselves (Fig. 181), are decorated in this way. On the seats themselves, as on the table top, hazel and withy are contrasted, and form a design in alternate triangles; the separating bands, it may be noticed, have a light strip against the dark, and a dark strip against the light, triangle. Along the edge of the seats one or two strips merely are nailed lengthwise. In such a situation an ornamental edging like that round the table would be too liable to be broken. It is recommended that the back of the seats should be in dark bark-covered woods only, for the mosaic in that position will look better without any mixture of the light-coloured withy.

The upper compartments of the sides with which the backs of those sitting down will not come in contact may be more quickly and yet pleasingly covered with sheets of bark. Elm bark is good for the purpose. It may be peeled in large sheets from the trunks of trees felled in spring, when the sap is rising; and whilst it is drying should have bricks or stones laid on it to press it flat. When dried, it is nailed to the walls, and any cracks which appear can be neatly filled with moss. The space beneath the seats is also shown as roughly covered with bark.

Fig. 180.—Seat Side of Octagonal Summer-house. Fig. 180.—Seat Side of Octagonal Summer-house.

The almost conical roof is thatched. No other covering is so pleasing as thatch for a rustic building. Its colour and rough texture harmonise well with the natural wood, and all its associations are of a rustic character; no other covering so effectually excludes the summer heat, and nowhere can one find a retreat so suggestive of coolness, quiet, and repose, as under the low eaves of a thatched building. Thatch has, it must be admitted, certain practical disadvantages—birds and winds are apt to scatter fragments from it, and it needs renewing at comparatively short intervals. The common saying is that a thatched roof needs re-coating every ten years. Often, no doubt, this is near the truth, yet really good work will frequently stand for almost twenty years. The materials in use in this country are reeds, straw, and stubble. Reeds make a strong thatch, but are not easily to be procured, except in fenny districts. Stubble, which is the lower and stronger part of the wheat stem, stands better than straw, which is its upper and weaker portion; to last properly, however, stubble should be cut immediately after harvest, and should not be left standing, as it frequently is, till the spring, for then the winter rains, collecting in its hollow stems, cause it to rot before it is cut. On small buildings like summer-houses especially, stubble makes a much more compact and sightly roof than straw.

Thatching is not costly or difficult work. In agricultural districts a load of stubble—sufficient to thatch three such buildings as the one illustrated—costs 30s., and a thatcher expects the wages of a first-class labourer only, not those of a mechanic. He needs an assistant, whose business it is to straighten the material into convenient bundles (called "yelvens"), and to supply him as he requires them. If he is re-thatching an old building, he merely thrusts the ends of his new material into the old thatch with a wooden spud; but if he is covering a new roof he sews down his "yelvens" to the laths and rafters with a huge needle and stout tarred string. He begins at the eaves, laying as wide a breadth as he can conveniently reach on one side of his ladder, this breadth being called a "stelch." He works upwards, each new layer covering the tar-cord which secures that beneath it; and thus he goes on till he has reached the ridge.

In his second "stelch" he is careful to blend together its edge and the edge of that already laid, so that no rain may find its way between them; and in doing this completely lies much of the superiority of good over bad thatching. When laid, the thatch is smoothed down and straightened with a gigantic comb, like the head of a large rake, one end being without teeth, and serving as a handle. In the present instance, the tops of all the stelches meeting in a point are finished and capped by the little bundle of thatching material forming the pinnacle, which is tightly bound round the rod of wood or iron in its centre.

Fig. 181.—Mosaic Seats for Octagonal Summer-house. Fig. 181.—Mosaic Seats for Octagonal Summer-house.

It is usual to bind thatching down with at least two belts of buckles and runners. In the summer-house (Fig. 172) two double belts are shown. The buckles have some resemblance to ladies' hair-pins on a colossal scale. They are made of slips of withy, twisted and doubled in their middles and pointed at their ends; the runners are long straight slips of the same. These latter are laid across the thatch, and the buckles, being placed over them, are pushed tightly into it—their points being driven upwards, that wet may not be let into the roof by them. The short diagonal runners seen in the illustration crossing each other between the horizontal lines are used in ornamental thatching only, and are rather for appearance than for use. Lastly, the eaves are cut to shape, and trimmed with paring-knife and shears.

The roof looks most pretty and cosy within if lined with ling. The ling is fixed in a way somewhat akin to thatching. A layer is placed along the bottom opposite to the eaves, and secured by a strip of wood nailed from rafter to rafter; the layer next above hides this strip, and so the work is carried on to the apex, where a knot cut from an apple-tree trunk, a bunch of fir-cones fastened together, or some such matter, finishes the whole. In districts where ling is not to be had, gorse or furze in short pieces may serve instead, but stout gloves are required to handle it; or the ends of fir branches may do, if nothing better offers.

It is not always easy to decide on the best way of forming a floor. Boards may look out of place. A pitching of pebbles is more in character: it is dry and cleanly, and especially if some variety of colour is obtainable, and the stones are arranged in some geometrical design, it may add to the ornamental effect. Pebbles are not, however, pleasing to the feet of those who wear thin shoes. Gravel, where it is always dry, is apt to become dusty, and to disagree with ladies' dresses. If, however, gravel should be used, perhaps the best plan to prevent the rising of damp, and to obviate dust as far as possible, is to asphalt it: on the foundation of broken stones and a layer of coarse gravel to put a course of asphalt or of ordinary gas tar, and on this to sift enough fine washed gravel to hide it. Yet a wood pavement of small larch poles, cut into 5-or 6-in. billets, and pitched with some attention to geometrical arrangement, will make the most dry and comfortable of floors, and one which will not harmonise badly with any of the decorative work of our summer-house.

The octagonal house illustrated by Fig. 182 is made up of varnished rustic work. The saplings and twigs should be as straight and as regular as possible, and divested of their bark.

Fig. 182.—Octagonal Summer-house with Three Gables. Fig. 182.—Octagonal Summer-house with Three Gables.

Fig. 183.—Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house through Side Casement. Fig. 183.—Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house through Side Casement.

Fig. 184.—Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house through Lower Part of Door and Sill. Fig. 184.—Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house through Lower Part of Door and Sill.

Fig. 186. Fig. 186.

Fig. 185. Fig. 185.
Figs. 185 and 186.—Elevation and Plan of Roof for Octagonal Summer-house.

The eight posts are 4 in. in diameter by 6 ft. 8 in. long. The short sill pieces are also 4 in. in diameter, while the middle rails are 3½ in. in diameter, and the plate is 3 in. by 4½ in. The floor and roof are constructed from ordinary scantlings.

The posts form a circle 6 ft. 6 in. in diameter. They are spaced about 2 ft. 3 in. apart, except the door-posts, which are 2 ft. 7 in. centres. Flats may be worked on the posts for the better fitting of the door, panels, and casements, and the top edge of the sill is also planed flat to receive the floorboards, and a rebate is formed for the ⁵/8-in. matchboard (see Fig. 183).

The sill and middle rails are scribed and stub-tenoned to the posts. The plate is halved, dowelled, and nailed to the posts. The joists are 2 in. by 4 in., and are notched to the sills (Fig. 184) and covered with 1-in. floorboards.

Fig. 187.—Securing Glass to Rustic Casement. Fig. 187.—Securing Glass to Rustic Casement.

The roof is formed with three gables, four being deemed unnecessary, as a summer-house is generally fixed with its back to a shrubbery. Eight hip rafters are required, and by fixing the heels of each pair of rafters on the sides of the plate marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 (see Fig. 185) more space is acquired for the gables. The ridges and valley-pieces of the gables are attached to a wide batten screwed to the under side of the hip rafters (see Figs. 185 and 186). Some of the small battens are omitted from Fig. 185 to give a better view of the gables, etc.

Fig. 188. Fig. 188.	Fig. 189. Fig. 189.
Fig. 188.—Half Front and Half Back View of Door for Octagonal Summer-house. Fig. 189.—Section of Door for Octagonal Summer-house.

The roof-covering is generally wheat straw, with a top dressing of either broom or heather. The dark colour of the two latter materials harmonises much better with a varnished house than does a covering wholly of straw. The four lower panels are filled in with matchboarding, which is carried right up to the plate in the three back divisions. The rustic work, excepting the back panels, is then fitted and nailed.

Fig. 190.—Part Plan of Octagonal Summer-house. Fig. 190.—Part Plan of Octagonal Summer-house.

There are four casement windows, which open outward. A section of casement and frame enlarged is shown in Fig. 187. A shallow rebate is formed to receive the leaded lights, which are retained in position with split bamboo fixed with round-headed brass screws.

Fig. 191.—Horizontal Section through Door Posts. Fig. 191.—Horizontal Section through Door Posts.

The door (Figs. 188 and 189) is 6 ft. 1 in. by 2 ft. 3 in. The rustic work is overlaid on the frame of the door. The centre of the diamond-shaped panel is filled with cork. The top panel is glazed with stained glass. Three butts and a rim lock are fitted on the inside of the door, and the lower panel is filled with matchboarding.

Fig. 192.—Part Section of Side Panel. Fig. 192.—Part Section of Side Panel.

Some further illustrations may be noted. Fig. 190 is a part plan of the octagonal summer-house; Fig. 191, horizontal section through door-posts; Fig. 192, part section of a side panel; Fig. 193, method of fixing plate to posts; and Fig. 194, finial.

Fig. 193.—Fixing Plate to Posts. Fig. 193.—Fixing Plate to Posts.

Fig. 194.—Finial. Fig. 194.—Finial.

A seat 13 in. wide, supported on wide battens, which in turn rest on shaped brackets, is fixed at each angle. A sloping back (see Fig. 183) is fitted, which adds to the general comfort. The decoration of the inside should now receive attention. The floor may be covered with linoleum, the seats carpeted or cushioned. The sloping backs of the seats and the walls will look well if covered with Indian matting or Japanese leather paper. Split cane or bamboo may be used with good effect at the joints or angles. The under side of the roof or ceiling should be first covered by stretching canvas across the rafters, and to this is attached the decorative material.

The summer-house stands on stone slabs raised about 1 in. above the ground. The lower ends of the posts are dressed with pitch, or are stood on sheet lead. The triangular spaces in the gables can be made to open inwards if desired, and used for ventilation.

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