Use none but the best butter in pastry. “Cooking butter is a good thing,” said a grave epicure to me once, “an admirable thing—in its place, which is in the soap-fat kettle or upon wagon-wheels!” It is certainly out of place in biscuits, cake, or in any substance destined for human palates and stomachs. It is never less in place than in pastry; never betrays its vileness more surely and odiously. Butter intended for pastry should be washed carefully in several clear, cold waters, and kneaded while under water, to extract the salt. Then wipe it dry and lay it in a cold place until you are ready to work it in. “Keep cool,” is a cardinal motto for pastry-makers. A marble slab is a good thing to roll out paste upon. Next to this, the best article is a clean board of hard wood, which is never used for any other purpose. It is harder to make good pastry in warm weather than cold, Few people know what really good pastry is. Fewer still can make it. It has no inevitable resemblance either to putty or leather. It is light, crisp, flaky, goodly to behold—goodlier to the taste. “Pork fat and pies kill more people yearly in the United States than do liquor and tobacco,” said a popular lecturer upon conservatism. Perhaps so; but I incline to the belief that bad pastry is answerable for a vast majority of the murders. Not that I recommend pies of any description as healthful daily food—least of all for children. But since they are eaten freely all over our land, let us make them as wholesome and palatable as possible. Family Pie-Crust (No. 1.) ?
Sift the flour into a deep wooden bowl. With a broad-bladed knife, or a small keen “chopper,” cut up the lard into the flour until it is fine as dust. Wet with ice-water into a stiff dough, working it with a wooden spoon until obliged to make it into a roll or ball with your hands. Flour these, and knead the paste into shape with as few strokes as will effect your end. Lay the lump upon a floured kneading-board and roll it out into a thin sheet, always rolling from you with quick, light action. When thin enough, stick bits of butter in regular close rows all over the sheet, using a knife for this purpose rather than your hands. Roll up the paste into close folds as you Bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. Be particularly careful to have your heat as great at the bottom as at the top, or the lower crust will be clammy and raw. Pastry is always best when fresh. It is well, when you can spare the time, to lay the roll, when all the butter is used up, in a very cold place for fifteen minutes or so before rolling it into crust. Indeed, some good housewives let it stand on the ice an hour in hot weather. They say it tends to make it flaky as well as firm. Touch as little with your hands as may be practicable. Family Pie-Crust (No. 2.) ?
Chop half the butter into the flour until it looks like yellow sand (sift the soda and cream-tartar with the flour, passing it through the sieve twice to make sure it is well mixed); work with ice-water into stiff dough; roll into a thin sheet, baste with one-third the remaining butter, fold up closely into a long roll, flatten and re-roll, then baste again. Repeat this operation three times, until the butter is gone, when make out your crust. This is an easy and sure receipt, and the paste very fine. French Puff Paste. ?
Chop half the butter into the flour; stir the beaten egg into half a cup ice-water, and work the flour into a stiff dough; roll out thin, baste with one-third the remaining butter, fold closely, roll out again, and so on until the butter is used up. Roll very thin, and set the last folded roll in a very cold place ten or fifteen minutes before making out the crust. Wash with beaten egg while hot. This paste is very nice for oyster-pÂtÉs as well as for fruit-pies. Puff-Paste.
Mix the flour, a tablespoonful of butter, the beaten egg and ice-water into a paste with a wooden spoon. Flour your pastry-board, and roll out the crust very thin. Put The bottom crust of pies may often be made of plainer pastry than the upper. Transparent Crust. (Very rich.)
Wash the butter, dry, and then melt it in a vessel set in another of boiling water, stirring gently all the while to prevent oiling. Take off the salty scum from the top, and when almost cold beat up the butter little by little with the egg, which should be previously whipped light. When these are thoroughly incorporated, work in the flour, roll out twice, sprinkling lightly with flour before you fold it up; let it stand folded five minutes in a cold place, and make out for tartlets or pÂtÉs. It is not suitable for large pies. Bake before you fill them, and brush over with a beaten egg while hot. Mince Pies (No. 1.)
The meat should be a good piece of lean beef, boiled the day before it is needed. Half a pound of raw suet, chopped fine, may be added. Chop the meat, clean out bits of skin and gristle, and mix with twice the quantity of fine juicy apples, also chopped; then put in the fruit, next the sugar and spice, lastly the liquor. Mix very thoroughly, cover closely, and let all stand together for twenty-four hours before making the pies. Mince Pies (No. 2.) ?
Mince-meat made by this receipt will keep all winter Lay strips of pastry, notched with a jagging-iron, in a cross-bar pattern, upon the pie, instead of a top-crust. I take this opportunity of warning the innocent reader against placing any confidence whatever in dried currants. I years ago gave over trying to guess who put the dirt in them. It is always there! Gravel-stones lurking under a specious coating of curranty-looking paste, to crucify grown people’s nerves and children’s teeth; mould that changes to mud in the mouth; twigs that prick the throat, not to mention the legs, wings, and bodies of tropical insects—a curious study to one interested in the entomology of Zante. It is all dirt! although sold to us at currant prices. Wash your currants, therefore, first in warm water, rolling up your sleeves, and rubbing the conglomerate masses apart, as you would scrub a muddy garment. Drain them in a cullender, and pass them through three more waters—cold now, but cleansing. Then spread them upon a large dish, and enter seriously upon your geological and entomological researches. “Sultanas”—sweet and seedless—are nearly as troublesome, but their specialty is more harmless, being stickiness and stems. Nevertheless, since John has a weakness for mince-pies (I never saw an un-dyspeptic man who had not), it is worth your while to make them, having this consolation, that if you are wise you need not engage in the manufacture oftener than once, or at most, twice a winter. But let the children taste them sparingly, and never at night, if you value their health and your own sound slumbers. Apple Mince-Meat.
Pack down in a stone jar, with close cover, and keep in a cool place. Mock Mince-Meat. ?
“Mince-pie in summer is a pleasant rarity,” was the remark of a party of hungry travellers, in semi-apology for the fact that every plate made a return journey to the comely landlady, who was dispensing generous triangles of pie. She smiled gratifiedly, but said nothing in reply, until, when the gentlemen had strolled off to the woods with their cigars, she came upon me, seated alone on the piazza, and grew confidential under the influence of that sort of free-masonic understanding housekeepers have with one another, almost at sight. “I had to laugh,” said the good soul, “when they praised my mince-pies. They’re healthfuller in summer time than the real thing.” I took down the receipt on the spot from her lips. If any one doubts the merits of the counterfeit, let her do as I did—try it. Apple Pie (No. 1.) ?Pare, core, and slice ripe, tart winter apples—Pippins, Greenings, or Baldwins—line your dish with a good crust, put in a layer of fruit, then sprinkle light-brown sugar thickly over it, scatter half a dozen whole cloves upon this, lay on more apples, and so on, until the dish is well filled. Cover with crust and bake. Sift powdered sugar over the top before sending to table. Apple Pie (No. 2.) ?Stew green or ripe apples, when you have pared and cored them. Mash to a smooth compote, sweeten to taste, and, while hot, stir in a teaspoonful butter for each pie. Season with nutmeg. When cool, fill your crust, and either cross-bar the top with strips of paste, or bake without cover. Eat cold, with powdered sugar strewed over it. Apple Custard Pie. ?
Make the stewed apple very sweet, and let it cool. Beat the eggs light, and mix the yolks well with the apple, seasoning with nutmeg only. Then stir in gradually the milk, beating as you go on; lastly add the whites; fill your crust and bake without cover. Apple MÉringue Pies. ?Stew and sweeten ripe, juicy apples, when you have pared and sliced them. Mash smooth, and season with nutmeg. If you like the flavor, stew some lemon-peel with the apple, and remove when cold. Fill your crust, and bake until just done. Spread over the apple a thick mÉringue, made by whipping to a stiff froth the whites of three eggs for each pie, sweetening with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar for each egg. Flavor this with rose-water or vanilla; beat until it will stand alone, and cover the pie three-quarters of an inch thick. Set back in the oven until the mÉringue is well “set.” Should it color too darkly, sift powdered sugar over it when cold. Eat cold. They are very fine. Peach pies are even more delicious, made in this manner. Pippin Pies.
Pumpkin Pie (No. 1.) ?
Beat all well together, and bake in crust without cover. Pumpkin Pie (No. 2.)
Squash PieIs made precisely like pumpkin pie, except that, being less rich, it requires one more egg for each pie. Sweet-Potato Pie (No. 1.)Parboil, skin, and slice crosswise firm sweet potatoes. Line a dish with paste, put in a layer of sliced potato, sprinkle thickly with sugar, scatter among them a few whole cloves, and cover with more slices. Fill the dish in this order; put a tablespoonful of melted butter in each pie; pour in a little water; cover with crust, and bake. Eat cold. Sweet Potato Pie (No. 2.) ?
Parboil the potatoes, and grate them when quite cold. If grated hot, they are sticky and heavy. Cream the butter and sugar; add the yolk, the spice, and lemon; beat the potato in by degrees and until all is light; then the milk, then the brandy, and stir in the whites. Bake in dishes lined with good paste—without cover. You may make a pudding of this by baking in a deep dish—well buttered, without paste. Cool before eating. Irish Potato Pie (or pudding.) ?
Mix as you do sweet potato pudding, and bake in open shells of paste. To be eaten cold. Lemon Pie (or Transparent Pudding.) ?
Cream butter and sugar, beat in the yolks, the lemon, spice, and brandy, stirring in the whites at the last. Bake in pie-crust, open. You may, if you wish to have these very nice, beat up the whites of but four eggs in the mixture, and whip the whites of four more into a mÉringue with four tablespoonfuls sugar and a little lemon-juice, to spread over the top of each pie. Eat cold. They are very nice baked in pattypans. Lemon Pie (No. 2.) ?
This is just enough for one pie. Take the thick white rind off the lemon before you chop it. Take out the seeds carefully. Lemon Cream Pie. ?
Stir the corn-starch into the water, cream the butter and sugar, and pour over them the hot mixture. When quite cool, add lemon and the beaten egg. Take the inner rind off the lemon and mince very small. Bake in open shell. Lemon Pie (No. 3.)
Cream the sugar and butter, stir in the beaten yolks and the lemon, and bake. Beat the whites to a stiff mÉringue with three tablespoonfuls powdered sugar and a little rose-water. When the pies are done, take from the oven just long enough to spread the mÉringue over the top, and set back for three minutes. This mixture is enough for two small, or one good-sized pie. Eat cold. Orange Pie. ?
Cream the butter and sugar, beating in the orange and Lemon Tart.
Beat up well, and bake with upper and lower crust. Orange Tartlets.
Beat all well together, and bake in tartlet shells without cover. Chocolate Tarts. ?
Rub the chocolate smooth in the milk and heat to boiling over the fire, then stir in the corn-starch. Stir five minutes until well thickened, remove from the fire, and pour into a bowl. Beat all the yolks and the whites of two eggs well with the sugar, and when the chocolate mixture is almost cold, put all together with the flavoring, and stir until light. Bake in open shells of pastry. When done, cover with a mÉringue made of the whites of two eggs and two tablespoonfuls of sugar flavored with a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Eat cold. These are nice for tea, baked in pattypans. Cocoa-nut Pie (No. 1.) ?
Cream the butter and sugar, and when well mixed, beat very light, with the wine and rose-water. Add the cocoanut with as little and as light beating as possible; finally, whip in the stiffened whites of the eggs with a few skillful strokes, and bake at once in open shells. Eat cold, with powdered sugar sifted over them. These are very pretty and delightful pies. Cocoa-nut Pie (No. 2.)
Rub the butter and sugar together; beat light with the brandy and lemon-juice; stir in the beaten yolks; lastly the cocoa-nut and the whites, alternately. Bake in open shells. Eat cold, with powdered sugar sifted over it. Cocoa-nut Custard Pie. ?
Boil the milk, take it from the fire, and whip in gradually the beaten eggs. When nearly cold, season; add the cocoa-nut, and pour into paste-shells. Do not boil the egg and milk together. Bake twenty minutes. Some put the custard quite raw into the pie-dishes, but the cocoa-nut is apt, in that case, to settle at the bottom. You may, however, pour the raw mixture into cups, and bake by setting in a pan of boiling water, stirring well once, as they begin to warm. This is cocoa-nut cup-custard, and is much liked. Chocolate Custard-Pie.
Dissolve the chocolate in a very little milk, stir into the boiling water, and boil three minutes. When nearly cold, beat up with this the yolks of all the eggs and the whites of three. Stir this mixture into the milk, season, and pour into shells of good paste. When the custard is “set”—but not more than half done—spread over it the whites, whipped to a froth, with two tablespoonfuls sugar. You may bake these custards without paste, in a pudding-dish or cups set in boiling water. Corn-starch Custard Pie. ?
Boil the milk, stir in the corn-starch wet in a little cold milk, and boil one minute. When nearly cold, stir in the sugar, the yolks of all the eggs, and the whites of two; flavor, and pour into your paste-shells. Whip the remaining whites to a mÉringue, with two tablespoonfuls white sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla, and when the custard is just “set,” draw your pies to the edge of the oven to spread this over them. Do it quickly, lest the custard fall by exposure to the air. You may bake this as a pudding by omitting the pastry. Eat cold. If you have not corn-starch, substitute arrow-root or rice-flour. Custard Pie.
Bake this as cup-custard, or a custard pudding, in cups or a deep dish set in a pan of boiling water. Peach Pie. ?Peel, stone, and slice the peaches. Line a pie-plate with a good crust, and lay in your fruit, sprinkling sugar liberally over them in proportion to their sweetness. Very ripe peaches require comparatively little. Allow three peach-kernels, chopped fine, to each pie; pour in a very little water, and bake with an upper crust, or with cross-bars of paste across the top. Some simply pare the peaches and put in whole, packing them well, and sweetening freely. In this case they should be covered entirely with crust. For one of the most delightful pies that can be made of any fruit, look for apple mÉringue pie, and substitute peaches. Peach mÉringue pie may be made in winter from canned peaches. Cherry Pie.Line the dish with a good crust, and fill with ripe cherries, regulating the quantity of sugar you scatter over them by their sweetness. Cover and bake. Eat cold, with white sugar sifted over the top. Blackberry, Raspberry, and Plum PiesAre made in the same manner. Currant and Raspberry Tart. ?To three cups of currants allow one of raspberries. Mix Eat cold, with white sugar sifted over it. Currant TartIs made as above, with more sugar. The most common fault of currant pie is extreme sourness. Small fruits should be looked over carefully before they are cooked. Currants are troublesome, but they must nevertheless be looked after warily on account of their extreme stemminess. Green Gooseberry Tart. ?Top and tail the gooseberries. Put into a porcelain kettle with enough water to prevent burning, and stew slowly until they break. Take them off, sweeten well, and set aside to cool. When cold pour into pastry shells, and bake with a top crust of puff-paste. Brush all over with beaten egg while hot, set back in the oven to glaze for three minutes. Eat cold. Ripe Gooseberry Pie.Top and tail the berries. Line your dish with crust, and fill with berries, strewing white sugar among them. Cover and bake. Damson Tart.Pick over the fruit, put in a dish lined with pastry, sweeten very freely, cover and bake. Brush with beaten egg when done, and return to the oven for a few minutes to glaze. Cranberry Tart.Wash and pick over the berries. Put into a porcelain saucepan with a very little water, and simmer until they Strawberry Pie.Cap and pick over the berries, arrange in layers, besprinkle with a good coating of sugar, in a shell of pastry. Fill it very full, as strawberries shrink very much in cooking. Cover with crust and bake. Huckleberry pie is made in the same way. Cream Raspberry Tart. ?Line a dish with paste and fill with raspberries, made very sweet with powdered sugar. Cover with paste, but do not pinch it down at the edges. When done, lift the top crust, which should be thicker than usual, and pour upon the fruit the following mixture:—
Boil these ingredients three minutes; let them get perfectly cold before you put them into the tart. Replace the top crust, and set the pie aside to cool. Sprinkle sugar over the top before serving. You can make strawberry cream tart in the same manner. Rhubarb Tart. (Open.)Skin the stalks with care, cut into small pieces; put into a saucepan with very little water, and stew slowly Or— ?You may, after sweetening the stewed rhubarb, stir in a lump of butter the size of a hickory-nut for each pie, also a well-beaten egg for each, and bake in pastry. Lay cross-bars of pastry over the top. Rhubarb Pie (Covered.)Skin the stalks, cut in lengths of half an inch; strew lavishly with sugar, and fill the crusts with the raw fruit. Some scatter seedless raisins among the rhubarb. Cover, and bake nearly three-quarters of an hour. Brush with egg while hot, and return to the oven to glaze. Eat cold, as you do all fruit-pies. |