TRENTHAM, the magnificent seat of his Grace the Duke of Sutherland, is beautifully situated not far from the rise of the river Trent, in one of the most charming parts of Staffordshire. Its nearest town is Newcastle-under-Lyme, closely adjacent to the most important centre of British industry, the Pottery district, rendered famous in the world of commerce by its vast productions, which supply every civilised country, and in the world of Art by the “things of beauty” produced by its matchless artists, and which will literally remain a “joy for ever,” in whatever place they may be preserved. The history of Trentham is not one that requires much attention, for, unlike many other places, it has had no stirring historical incidents connected with it, and its story is therefore one of peace. Its vicissitudes have not been unpleasant ones, not one scene of rapine or war or murder being recorded in its annals; and it has become the “home”—literally the most charming and comfortable of English homes—of one of our greatest nobles, where domestic comforts take the place of state and ceremony, and homelike surroundings supplant unmeaning grandeur. Trentham Monastery was, it is stated, founded by Ethelred, who succeeded his brother Wulphere as King of Mercia in 675, and who induced his niece Werburgh (daughter of Wulphere) “to leave the religious house at Ely, where she was abbess, to superintend the nunnery he had built at Trentham, as well as other similar religious foundations in Mercia—viz. Hanbury, near Burton-on-Trent; Repton (the capital of the Mercian kingdom), in Derbyshire; and Weedon, in Northamptonshire. Werburgh died at Trentham, after leading a long and pious and eminently useful life, and, being shortly afterwards canonised, became one of the most celebrated of Anglo-Saxon saints. It is supposed that the original site of St. Werburgh’s Nunnery was at Hanchurch, about a mile from Trentham, the spot being marked by some venerable yews of great antiquity, which still form three sides of a square. It was called Tricengham, and is by that name described by Tanner, Dugdale, and others. There is no record for the next four hundred years; but in the Domesday survey a priest is mentioned as being there. In the time of William Rufus (1027 to 1100), the priory having been restored or rebuilt by the Earl of Chester, “the prior and canons entered upon Trentham by a deed of gift from Hugh, first Earl of Chester; and a deed of institution by Roger de Clinton, Bishop of Lichfield (1139), describes John, the prior, as instituted to the priory of Trentham and its appendages, on the presentation of the Empress Maude, at a synod held at Lichfield.” The building appears to have been continued by the fourth Earl of Chester, as the charter, commonly known as the deed of “Restoration,” is that of Randle, the fourth earl (about 1152). It is the remains of this building which have furnished the fine Norman pillars of the present church. In 1162 the church of Sutton-en-le-Felde, in Derbyshire, was given to Trentham by Ralph de Boscherville. The chapelries of Whitmore and Newcastle also belonged to it; and soon after this date Hugh Kyveliok, Earl of Chester, gave to it the church of Bettesford. In the next century Clayton Griffith became an appanage of the priory, as did Over-Elkiston. In 1321 the advowson was claimed by the Earl of Lancaster, who instituted a prior (Richard of Dilhorne), whose election was afterwards confirmed by the King. Early in the reign of Henry VI. the priory obtained from the King in very express terms a confirmation and enlargement of former grants. After reciting the original deeds of gift of Henry II. and Randolph, Earl of Chester, the King bestows on “my Canons of Trentham” “Crofts for Trentham, from Monument Hill, Tittensor. After the dissolution of the monasteries in 1531, the priory of Trentham (whose last prior was Thomas Bradwell, who, elected 22nd Henry VIII., held office at the time), whose annual value was returned at £106 2s. 9d. clear, was granted, in 1539, to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, brother-in-law to Henry VIII., and afterwards came into the possession of the Levesons, a Staffordshire family of great antiquity seated at Willenhall. Sir Richard Leveson was distinguished as a naval commander. He is considered to be the subject of the fine old plaintive ballad “The Spanish Lady’s Love,” although the same honour has been ascribed to Sir John Bolle, for he accompanied the Earl of Nottingham in his expedition against Cadiz when he was twenty-seven years of age. The ballad, one of the best in our language, tells the story of a “Spanish lady” “by birth and parentage of high degree,” who, being detained as a prisoner by the English captain, was so overcome with his kindness that she conceived a violent attachment towards him; so much so, indeed, that when— “... At last there came commandment For to set the ladies free, With all their jewels still adornÉd, None to do them injury; Then said this lady gay, ‘Full woe is me! ***** Thou hast set this present day my body free, The captain urged many objections, each one of which in turn she argued away and removed, even when he said— “I have neither gold nor silver To maintain thee in this case, And to travel is great charges As you know in every place.” She answered— “My chains and jewels every one shall be thine own, At length, finding all other argument useless, he is made boldly to declare— “I in England have already A sweet woman to my wife; I will not falsify my vow for gold or gain, To which she makes him the magnanimous answer— “Oh! how happy is that woman That enjoys so true a friend! Many happy days God send her! Of my suit I’ll make an end: On my knees I pardon crave for this offence, Commend me to thy loving lady, Bear to her this chain of gold And these bracelets for a token, Grieving that I was so bold: All my jewels in like sort bear thou with thee, Statue of Sir Richard Leveson And she, taking an affecting leave of him, declares her intention of spending her days in prayer in a nunnery. Sir Richard married the daughter of the famous Earl of Nottingham, who was Lord High Admiral and Commander-in-chief of the fleet which defeated the Armada. Sir Richard Leveson, who was in this engagement, was, in 1601, made Vice-Admiral, and died in 1605. In the collegiate church at Wolverhampton was formerly a “stately monument in black marble erected to his memory, by which were two brass plates, the one inscribed with the chief events of his life, registered at length in Latin,” and the other in English, erected by Sir Richard Leveson. It was executed by Le Sueur for £300, the original contract being still preserved at Trentham. During the civil wars “this bronze effigy was ordered by the Committee of Sequestrations at Stafford to be taken away and cast into cannon; but by the timely interposition of Lady Leveson, the Admiral’s widow, it was redeemed for a sum of money, and deposited in Lilleshall Church till the strife was over. The marble monument being destroyed, it now occupies a niche in the church of Wolverhampton,” and a copy is preserved in a recess in the court-yard at Trentham. Sir Richard Leveson, Knight of the Bath, M.P. for Shropshire, and afterwards for Newcastle-under-Lyme, was devoted to the cause of Charles I. He made his residence at Trentham, “being accounted one of the best “Sr “Since the unhappy surprise of Stafford by the rebelles, the place where I am is not safe, either for myselfe or my goodes, and therefore I have sent 2 wagons loaded with some household stuffe, which I desire, with your dispensacon, may be received into your towne of Shrewsbury, into a roome which I have longe reserved in myne owne handes for this purpose against a tyme of neede; and that to this effecte you will please to give order unto your watch for free passage to and fro, whereby you will oblige mee more and more to remayne “Yor ever affectionate frende “R. Leveson.” “Lilleshall Lodge, 16 May, 1643. “Sr Francis Oteley, Kt The Sir Richard Leveson who built the old hall at Trentham in 1633 (two views of which are given in Plot) died in 1661. His widow, Lady Katharine Leveson (daughter of Robert, Duke of Northumberland, and Lady Alice Dudley), was a great benefactress to the parish. She died at Trentham in 1674, and was buried at Lilleshall. Her charities were almost boundless. Sir Richard Leveson dying without issue, the Trentham estates passed to his sister and co-heiress, who had married Sir Thomas Gower, and in the Gower family they have remained to this day. Sir William Leveson-Gower, his second son, who inherited the estates on the deaths of his elder brother and nephew, married Lady Jane Granville, eldest daughter of the Earl of Bath, by whom he had issue, with others, Sir John Leveson-Gower, who in 1703 was created Baron Gower of Sittenham. He married Catherine, daughter of the first Duke of Rutland, by whom he had four sons and two daughters. The eldest of these sons, John, was in 1746 advanced to the dignity of Viscount Trentham and Earl Gower. He was married three times: first, to Evelyn, daughter of the Duke of Kingston, by whom he had four sons and seven daughters; secondly, to Penelope, daughter of Sir John Stonehouse, by whom he had one daughter; and, thirdly, to Lady Mary Tufton, daughter George Granville Leveson-Gower, as second Marquis of Stafford. This nobleman married, in 1785, Elizabeth, Countess of Sutherland and Baroness Strathnaver (a title dating from 1228), and was, in 1833, advanced to the dignity of Duke of Sutherland. His grace, who had been called to the Upper House during his father’s lifetime as Baron Gower, became heir to the Duke of Bridgewater, and thus added immense wealth to the family property. He had surviving issue two sons—viz. George Granville, by whom he was succeeded, and Lord Francis, who took the name and arms of Egerton, by sign-manual, in 1833, and was raised to the peerage as Earl of Ellesmere in 1846 (he married Harriet Catherine, eldest daughter of Charles Greville, Esq., by whom he had issue, with others, the second Earl of Ellesmere, and Admiral Egerton, who married Lady Louisa Cavendish, daughter of the present Duke of Devonshire)—and two daughters, viz. Lady Charlotte Sophia, married to the Duke of Norfolk; and Lady Elizabeth Mary, married to Richard, Marquis of Westminster, father of the present Duke of Westminster. A noble colossal bronze statue of the Duke (who died in 1833), the figure being sixteen feet in height, and placed on a lofty column on Tittensor Hill (called “Monument Hill”), forms a conspicuous object against the sky from IN LASTING MEMORIAL OF George Granville Leveson-Gower, second Duke of Sutherland, was called to the Upper House during his father’s lifetime as Baron Gower. He was born in 1786, and married, in 1823, the Lady Harriet Elizabeth Georgiana Howard, daughter of the Earl of Carlisle. By this happy union his grace had issue four sons and seven daughters. Among these were—the present Duke of Sutherland, of whom more presently; Lord Albert Sutherland Leveson-Gower, who married, in 1872, a daughter of Sir Thomas Nevill Abdy, Bart., and died in 1874, leaving issue one infant; Lord Ronald Charles Leveson-Gower, late M.P. for Sutherland; Lady Elizabeth Georgiana, married, in 1844, to the present Duke of Argyll, and is mother of the Marquis of Lorne; Lady Evelyn, married to Lord Blantyre; Lady Caroline, married to the Duke of Leinster; and Lady Constance Gertrude, married to the present Duke of Westminster. His Grace the Duke of Sutherland died in 1861, aged seventy-four, and was buried in the Mausoleum at Trentham. He was a man of liberal, kindly, gentle, and benevolent disposition, and was beloved by people of every class; indeed, such was the affectionate attachment of his tenants, that after his death they erected statues to his memory on most of his estates. Monument of Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, Trentham Church. The Duchess, whose refined taste, attachment to Art, amiability of disposition, winning manners, and energetic character were beyond praise, died in 1868, and was also buried in the mausoleum at Trentham. She was Mistress of the Robes to the Queen, by whom she was esteemed as a beloved friend. To her pure taste Trentham owes many of its most attractive features, and had she lived to carry out the full bent of her inclination, much more would have been accomplished. A chastely beautiful altar-tomb, with a recumbent effigy of the Duchess, by Noble, has been erected in Trentham Church, and is one of the highest and purest achievements of sculptural Art. “Recurring to the monument in Trentham Church,” says the Rev. Prebendary HENRIETTÆ DUCISSÆ DE SUTHERLAND Besides this and other inscriptions, at the head of the tomb we read— IN TE MISERICORDIÆ IN TE PIETADE and at the base, “In memoriam Matris,” the following:—“This monument to the beloved memory of Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, wife of George The present noble peer, George Granville William Sutherland Leveson-Gower, third Duke of Sutherland, Marquis of Stafford, Earl Gower, Viscount Trentham, Baron Gower of Sittenham, in the peerage of the United Kingdom; Earl of Sutherland and Lord Strathnaver in the peerage of Scotland; Knight of the Garter and a Baronet; Lord-Lieutenant of Cromartie and of Sutherland, was born December 19th, 1828, and succeeded his father in his titles and estates in 1861, having previously sat (as Marquis of Stafford) as M.P. for Sutherland from 1852 to 1861. He married in 1849 Anne (born 1829), daughter and only child of John Hay Mackenzie, Esq., created in her own right, in 1861, Countess of Cromartie, Viscountess Tarbat, Baroness Castle-Avon, and Baroness McLeod, all in the peerage of the United Kingdom, with remainder to her eldest surviving son. By this lady (who has held the appointment of Mistress of the Robes to the Queen) the Duke has issue, living, two sons and two daughters. These are—Cromartie Sutherland Leveson-Gower, Marquis Stafford, M.P. for Sutherlandshire (heir to the dukedom), who was born in 1851, educated at Eton, and is in the Life Guards; Francis Sutherland Leveson-Gower, Viscount Tarbat (heir to the earldom of Cromartie), born in 1852; the Lady Florence, born in 1855; and the Lady Alexandra, born in 1866. His grace (who accompanied H.R.H. the Prince of Wales to India in 1875-6) is patron of thirteen livings—viz. Trentham, Blurton, Sheriff Hales, Hanford, Barlaston, and Normacott, in Staffordshire; and Donnington Wood, Pains Lane, Kinnersley, Lilleshall, Longdon-upon-Terne, Ketley, and Donington, in Shropshire. The arms of the Duke of Sutherland are—quarterly, 1 and 4, barry of eight, argent and gules, a cross fleury, sable, for Gower; 2, azure, three laurel-leaves, or, for Leveson; 3, gules, three mullets, or, within a bordure, or, charged with a double tressure flory counter-flory, gules, for Sutherland. Crests—1st, a goat’s head erased, ermine, for Leveson; 2nd, a wolf passant, argent, collared and lined, or, for Gower; 3rd, a cat-a-mountain, proper, for Sutherland. Supporters—dexter, a wolf (locally called a “gower”), argent, The South Front, from the Italian Gardens. The old hall at Trentham, previously referred to, and which was usually called Trentham Priory, through having been built on the foundations of that religious house, was altered and enlarged, and in the main rebuilt, by the second duke. The work was intrusted to Sir Charles Barry, and was commenced in 1834, and carried out at a cost of about £150,000. It had, however, previously undergone much alteration at the hands of Mr. Tatham, who endeavoured to approximate it, in appearance, to the old Buckingham Palace. PURSUING the carriage-way to Trentham, the visitor passes to the house from the park through a pair of gates, the posts of which are surmounted with life-size bronze stags. In the centre of the circular drive is a fine bronze statue of Diana at the chase. The carriage porch, which, unlike the rest of the building, is of solid stone, forms a square, arched upon columns, with an entablature and attic surmounted with a balustrade, and piers and bases. Over the arches are the arms of the Duke, boldly carved in stone; the supporters, wolves, as large as life. From this porch the entrance door opens into an elegant semicircular corridor, which is one of the prettiest features of the place. To the left, on entering, the corridor leads to the Entrance Hall, Grand Staircase, Billiard, and other rooms; and, on the right, to the Private Conservatory, Drawing-room, the private rooms, &c.; while in front it encloses the West Court, with its shell-fountain, statue of “Venus rising from the Bath,” and other attractions. It is not necessary to minutely describe the various rooms of this charming and purely domestic “Home,” nor to observe any consecutive arrangement regarding those upon which we may remark. All we need do is to briefly allude to some of the apartments, and then pass on to the charming grounds—the glory of Trentham. Among the more notable rooms are the following:—The Venetian Room, or the Duchess’s Boudoir, is, without exception, the most perfect gem of a room which any mansion can boast. It, as well as the Duke’s Room and Private Dining-room, opens from the corridor to the private rooms, lined with presses of books, and is lighted by three windows in the south front. The walls are divided into five large panels, painted by Clarkson Stanfield, in his best and most brilliant style, with scenes in Venice; the panels being separated from each other, and surrounded by gilt reticulated work on a crimson velvet ground. Of the furnishing and decorations of this exquisite The South Front, with Grecian Temple. The Duke’s Room closely adjoins this apartment. It is fitted with presses filled with the choicest and most rare printed books and manuscripts, and contains some remarkably fine paintings. Among the literary treasures here preserved we cannot forbear noting the original manuscript of old John Gower’s poems, in his own handwriting, and, as shown by an inscription at the commencement, presented by the poet to King Henry IV., on his coronation, and given back to the family of Gower, some centuries later, by Sir Thomas Fairfax; and among the treasures of Art, of which there are many, is one of the original “first fifty” copies of the Portland vase by old Josiah Wedgwood, in perfect preservation. And here it may be well to note that through the kind thoughtfulness of the Duke on our visit, we were shown a The Conservatory and Private Wing, South Front. The Dining-room, at the east end of the south terrace, contains some choice sculpture by Antonio Sola, Wolff, and others, and some gigantic vases of Minton’s creation. Adjoining this is the Marble Hall, or Ante Dining-room, lighted from the ceiling, and containing, besides a fine sculptured figure of Canning—copied from that by Chantrey in Westminster Abbey—a full-length life-size portrait of the late Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, by Winterhalter. The Breakfast-room, among its other pictorial treasures, contains The Private Conservatory. The Library, which contains a marvellous collection of choice and valuable books, is enriched by a frieze from the Elgin and Phigalean marbles, and is a charming and highly interesting room. In the Saloon, or Music-room, a pretty apartment whose ceiling is supported on pilasters, are some exquisite family busts, a charming bust of the late duchess by Noble, and other attractions. The carpet is characterized by the same pattern as the terrace garden. The Drawing-room, with its sweetly pretty painted ceiling, contains many good pictures: among these are Hofland’s “Storm off the Coast at Scarborough;” Sir Thomas Lawrence’s portraits of Lord Francis Leveson-Gower (Egerton), and of the second Duke of Sutherland; Vandyke’s “Children of In the Entrance Hall is a copy of Michael Angelo’s statue of “Thought;” and on the Grand Staircase is a rich assemblage of family and other portraits. In the various bed-rooms and other apartments, too, are contained a vast number of valuable paintings and works of Art. The Private Conservatory, however, is one of the “gems” of Trentham, and is as elegant in its arrangements and decorations as the most fastidious taste can desire or Art accomplish. Of this miniature “world of flowers” we give an engraving, from a special photograph taken by Harrison, but of its Eastern splendour of rich colours we can offer no idea. It is a square apartment, with Italian windows and trellised walls, and is also trellised between the lights of the ceiling. In the centre is a fine figure of “Venus at the Bath.” The noble ferns and the exotic and other plants are of the choicest kinds, and the arrangement of colour, especially when all are lighted from the number of lamps suspended from the roof, is exquisitely beautiful. A pleasant feature of Trentham is the Bowling Alley—formerly the Orangery Arcade—which affords an almost unique and very pleasing indoor pastime for the family and friends. This feature, we believe, was much enjoyed by the Shah on his visit to Trentham, which was rendered lavishly enjoyable to him in every conceivable way. From the Entrance Hall a doorway opens into the Church, which thus becomes not only the parish church, but the private chapel of the Duke. The Church thus forms a part of, or at all events is attached to, the house; and the transition from the elegances of modern life to the grand old house of prayer is very striking and solemn. The Church, which was restored in 1842 at the cost of the Duke, by Sir Charles Barry, is the nave of the old abbey of Trentham, the chancel having extended considerably beyond the present east wall of the churchyard. The Church, as it now exists, consists of a nave with clerestory, north and south aisles, and chancel, with a mortuary chapel at the east end of the south aisle. The pillars which divide the aisles from the nave are Norman, and are the original pillars, carefully replaced and restored, of the old priory; from them now spring acutely pointed arches of a later, and consequently Trentham Church. In the Memorial Chapel, besides the exquisitely beautiful altar-tomb to the late duchess by Noble, to which we have already referred, are monuments and tablets to the Levesons and Gowers; and here, too, is placed a memorial bust to Lord Albert, recently deceased. Of the beautiful monument to the late duchess we have given an engraving on page 40, copied from a clever photograph by M. De Tejada, taken from the admirable picture by Mr. John O’Connor, painted, we believe, for Lord Ronald Gower, and in his lordship’s possession. In the north wall of the Church is a recessed arched One feature yet remains to be noted; it is the introduction on the north wall of encaustic wall-tiles, each one of which, enclosed in a reticulated pattern, bears a memorial of some departed parishioner, in manner following:— These, which are many in number, are arranged above the oak lining on the seats, and have appropriate texts, &c., also in tiles, running above and below the series. It is a pretty and very lasting, as well as inexpensive, kind of memorial, and one that might with advantage be adopted in many churches. In the churchyard are the remains of a cross, and some other interesting matters. The Upper Terrace Garden, Italian Garden, and Lake. The great features of Trentham are, as we have before said, its grounds and its matchless lake. To these, however, we have but little space to devote, though a bare enumeration of their points of beauty would fill a volume. To the park the public are, thanks to the liberality of the Duke of Sutherland, and which is one of the innate features of himself and the noble family of which he is the head, freely admitted. The gardens and pleasure-grounds (which, until the great alterations made some years ago, was simply a sheep pasture railed off from the park) can only, however, and very rightly, be seen by special permission. To these we must devote a few words. The principal or south front of the house—two charming views of which we have given on pages 45 and 46—looks across the grounds and lake to the distant wooded hills skirting the horizon, and crowned in one place by the colossal statue of the first duke, to which we have already alluded. A part of this view, as seen from the windows of this front, we have depicted in the accompanying engraving. First comes the Terrace (not included in our view), studded with statues and vases; next, the Terrace Garden, with its central fountain, its grand bronze vases and sculptures, its flower-beds laid out in the form of a letter S for Sutherland, its recessed alcoves, and its Grecian temples, containing marvellous examples of antique sculpture; next, beyond, come Near this is a pleasant glade, having the Orangery, now the Bowling Alley, at its extremity; and near here is the iron bridge—one hundred and thirty years old, and one of the chefs-d’oeuvre of the old Coalbrookdale Works—crossing the river Trent, which flows through the grounds. Standing on this bridge, the view both up and down the Trent is strikingly beautiful. Looking up the stream, the “solemn Trent” is seen crossed by the old stone bridge, while, to the left, a view of the house is partially obtained through the trees, the original course of the river, before it was altered, being distinctly traceable, and presenting a broader surface and a more graceful sweep than at present. Looking down the stream, the view is more charming still, and embraces the river, the lake (into which, until a few years back, the Trent flowed), the islands, the American and other gardens, and the wooded heights that skirt the domain. Crossing the bridge, a little to the right is the Conservatory, filled with the choicest trees and flowering plants, and kept, as all the rest of the gardens and grounds are, in the most perfect order. In front of this Conservatory is a pretty feature—the poetical idea of the late duchess—consisting ELIZABETH LORNE. Thus the “memory” of the four daughters of the late duchess—viz. the present Duchess of Argyll, the Lady Blantyre, the Duchess of Leinster, and the Duchess of Westminster—is kept “ever green.” The Gardener’s Cottage. Near by are the Kitchen Gardens, Conservatories, Vineries, Peach-houses, Pine-houses, Orchid-houses, and all the usual appliances of a large and well-devised establishment; and it is a notable feature that all round the Kitchen Gardens, some thirteen acres in extent, is carried what is known as the Trentham Wall-Case—a glass-sided and covered passage, filled Children’s Cottage and Gardens. Just outside the park is the Mausoleum—the burial-place of the family—behind which is the present graveyard of the parish. Of the Poultry-houses (the finest in existence), the Stables, the Kennels, and the Estate Offices and Works it is not our province to speak. They are We reluctantly take our leave of Trentham, congratulating alike its noble owner on the possession of so lovely an estate, and the Pottery district in having in its midst a nobleman of such refined taste as his Grace the Duke of Sutherland, of such liberal and kindly disposition, and of such boundless wealth, which he has the opportunity of disposing in an open-hearted and beneficial manner; and this it is his pride to do. |