East Ruins—Other Ruins within the Zimbabwe Ruins’ Area.

EAST RUINS

THESE ruins lie 20 yds. to the south of the Motelekwe Road at 550 yds. east of Havilah Camp, and face the east end of the Acropolis Hill at a distance of 300 yds. south.

They occupy a rise overlooking the Valley of Ruins, and are built upon an open granite glacis which originally formed its floor. Their elevated and strategetic position at once claim the attention of visitors. These ruins have always been written and spoken of as being a fort for the defence of the east side of the Valley of Ruins, and, in fact, for all the ruins of the lower Zimbabwe group, including the Elliptical Temple, and especially for the eastern end of the South-East Ancient Ascent to the Acropolis. Judging from the contour of the country round about, the only possible line the ancient road from the east and the coast could have taken must have passed within a few yards of this ruin.

The view from East Ruins towards the east is most extensive and picturesque, for the land slopes on that side for over two miles towards the Beroma Range and the valley of the Motelekwe, while in the hollow are the Chipo-popo and Mapudzi rivers. Opposite are the peculiar and romantic columns of granite near Chenga’s kraal.

For the purposes of defence these ruins are ideally situated. On the south side they are protected by a steep declivity of some 40 ft. into the valley, and down this the original builders and later occupiers have shot their dÉbris in great quantities. The space between the ruin and the declivity, some 25 yds. in width and 100 ft. in length, is covered with short lengths of walls and wall dÉbris.

The area covered by these ruins is 140 ft. from north to south, and 93 ft. from east to west. It is most probable that on the south and east sides there were other enclosures.

The walls on the north, west, and south are fairly well built and massive, and are still some 8 ft. to 10 ft. in height, and average 3 ft. 6 in. to 4 ft. width of summit at those heights. The walls on the south-east and east average a height of from 4 ft. to 7 ft., while the divisional walls which remain have a reduced height of 4 ft. and 5 ft., and these latter are also substantially constructed.

There are four well-defined enclosures, the two on the west side being the most perfect. The northern enclosure had once been subdivided into at least six separate compartments.

Both in plan and construction these ruins excel most of the minor ruins, including No. 1 Ruins, and many walls on the Acropolis. The curved lines of the walls on the northern and southern sides are bold and striking, and well and exactly carried out. Their solidity is very noticeable, especially on both outer and inner faces. Not only are the courses in these walls fairly even, but the blocks are well-sized and are of a good quality of granite. In some portions of the walls the workmanship is of an inferior character.

But, whatever the style of construction may be, the faces of the walls are beautifully even from base to summit and also lengthways, for placing one’s eye close up against the wall and glancing along an area of wall-face, there is hardly to be seen half an inch of front of block protruding in front of its neighbours. This, of course, does not apply to the batter-back, which is only that of an average wall at Zimbabwe. The impression gained on viewing these massive walls, which occupy such an excellently strategetic position, is that the original builders intended the building to be used for some important purpose.

The northern enclosure is 60 ft. from north to south, and 67 ft. from east to west. The south-west enclosure is 61 ft. from north to south, and 51 ft. from east to west. The eastern enclosure is 55 ft. from north to south, and 22 ft. from east to west. The south-eastern enclosure, which is rather rudely constructed, and the walls of which are very considerably dilapidated, is 20 ft. from north to south, and 80 ft. from east to west.

There are three entrances through the outer walls, and these are on the west, south, and east, and all are rounded; two have buttresses, one has portcullis grooves, and the foundation forms the passage floor in each case. Two divisional entrances now only remain, and these are also rounded.

Immediately inside the west entrance and on the north side is what appears to have been a raised platform, facing west, about 4 ft. above the original floor. This may have an area of 15 ft. from north to south by 12 ft. from east to west, but the artificial filling-in of the ruin with soil has raised the interior surface to the level of this platform. Probably, as at other ruins at Zimbabwe with identical platforms in corresponding positions, this afforded a look-out overlooking the entrance. On the eastern side of these ruins there is a similar but smaller structure which may have answered the same purpose.

In the eastern enclosure and on the east face of the west wall is a recess starting upwards from the ground. This is 3 ft. high, 1 ft. 10 in. wide, and the blocks on each side respectively are flush-edged with each other. The recess goes back about the length of two blocks (see Architecture—Blind Recesses).

These ruins have been artificially filled in with soil to a depth of 3 ft. to 5 ft. by native occupiers of a comparatively late date, for the soil on the surface and downwards to the bottom of the filling-in is thick with old native pottery and the broken-up remains of Kafir huts.

Although almost every relic-hunter seems to have paid attention to these ruins, nothing of any antique value has been found here. Probably when the original occupiers left the granite floors were still exposed, and any objects found there may have been removed long before the filling-in took place. So far, there is no evidence that any industry—whether of ancient, mediÆval, or modern occupiers—has ever been carried on in this building.

OTHER RUINS WITHIN THE ZIMBABWE RUINS’ AREA

Bentberg (Matusu).—This kopje, which is 240 ft. above the threshold of the West Entrance to the Elliptical Temple, lies immediately south and south-west of the temple. Only 200 yds. separate the building from the foot of the hill. Here are many signs of very old occupations in the form of ruined terrace walls apparently of the Zimbabwe style, but of a very late period. The local Makalanga state that though their predecessors of the same race have had kraals on this hill, the terrace walls are not of any Makalanga construction; and this appears to be obvious. Further, though Makalanga pottery is abundant, yet there can be found both pottery and cement of a very superior quality and make; and such are repudiated by the natives as having been made by Amangwa, Makalanga, or Barotse. Great quantities of quartz broken into very small splinters are to be found in large areas on the hill. The nearest quartz reefs are six miles west of Zimbabwe. The older remains of terraces—many buried in silted soil—are to be found on the north side of the hill, but traces of walls can be met with extending almost to the summit and round the western flank. It is impossible to imagine that the ancients did not in some manner occupy the hill, as otherwise the Elliptical Temple would have been exposed on its south side without any defences. The old Barotse had a kraal at the foot of the north side of the hill just above the spot where are still the traces of Bent’s camp.

Rusivanga Kopje.—This hill (190 ft.) rises from the Zimbabwe Valley at some 300 yds. west of Havilah Camp. It is directly on the right of the road from Victoria to Zimbabwe at about a third of a mile from the main ruins, the road passing between it and Makuma Kopje on which is Mogabe’s kraal. The northern and eastern faces of this hill show in places from base to summit abundant evidence of occupations by ancients and also by very old Makalanga and Barotse. The remains of walls are in most instances of inferior construction, though at some points the courses of excellently built wall can be traced. There are also rudely built ramparts and enclosure walls of some later period. On the summit of the hill was once a fort. Fragments of soapstone, slate, quartz, and ironstone are to be found, also large stone-crushers, some excellent pottery, and cement work of superior quality. At one point is a cement wall carried across the top of a boulder. There are stone foundations of Makalanga huts which are circular and lined with cement, and winnowing floors with raised edges. On the eastern side of the hill two sets of isafuba game-holes have been cut into the surface of the granite rock. Each of these has thirty-six holes. On the west side and near the summit there are at least thirty different sets of game-holes cut into the granite, the holes of the sets varying in size. On the open granite areas on the hill are several places where deep depressions have been worn into the rock, evidently by the sharpening of tools or by grinding stones.

Ruin on Bingura’s Path.—This is located on the left-hand side of the path leading to Bingura’s kraal at about half a mile from the camp. Only its south-east wall is now standing, but its outlines can be traced by piles of blocks on all other sides. The area covered is about half an acre. The wall is well and substantially built, and is still 6 ft. high. This appears to be of very old construction. There have been no important “finds” made here, the ruin not having yet been examined. It occupies a strategetic position on slightly raised ground in the valley between the Bentberg and Rusivanga.

RUIN NEAR CHENGA’S KRAAL

This is situated one mile and a quarter east of Havilah Camp, and is the most easterly ruin of the Zimbabwe group. It stands upon a low ledge on the west side of the Beroma Range, and is a quarter of a mile west of Chenga’s kraal, and directly overlooks the Mapudzi stream, which flows at about 60 ft. immediately below the west face of the ruin. The position is strategetic and affords a view over several valleys. The area covered by walls and stone dÉbris is fully an acre and a half, but the actual walls now standing in any recognisable form of plan only cover 100 ft. by 80 ft.

A cluster of large boulders has been utilised, and over these and between them the walls have been erected, the interior being filled up with earth almost up to the summits of the walls by some later occupiers. On clearing this foreign soil from the interior faces of the walls, two buried entrances, both rounded, were discovered, and it was then possible to prepare a plan of such of the walls as were so cleared. Nothing of any antique value was found during these operations, all the “finds,” which were not numerous, being of old native articles.

All the walls are curved, and all buttresses, entrances, and ends of walls are rounded, and have a distinct batter-back. The granite blocks in some portions of the walls are as regular in size and shape as those to be seen in the Elliptical Temple, but the construction is not of the best. The outer faces of the walls have been first raised, and the internal portions afterwards filled in with stones of all sizes and shapes, but larger than those seen in the filling-in of the interiors of many of the walls at Khami Ruins. The courses at some points are very regular, but at others there has been no attempt at making any courses. The column style of building adopted by old Makalanga and Barotse is present in parts. The walls average about 4 ft. in width at base and 3 ft. on present reduced summit. There is no mural decorative work introduced.

The natives state that this ruin was not built by the same people that built the rough walls of the minor ruins at Zimbabwe, their theory being that it was erected by Barotse very many generations ago, and on this point they are very emphatic. The translations of the native expressions for relics are “pretty stone” and “money.” In starting work here, the labourers, who receive small rewards for discovering relics, grumbled considerably, and informed the author that it was useless to work there, as no “pretty stones” or “money” would be found there. Similar remarks were made about other small ruins, and in every case they have been proved to be correct. Whether this ruin has actually any claim to antiquity is a matter which, at present, it would be unsafe to dogmatise upon.

CHENGA’S AND MADAVID PATH RUINS

These ruins are in a valley which runs north and south on the Beroma Range at one mile distance south-east of Chenga’s kraal, and lie a few yards to the west of the native path leading from Chenga’s to Madavid’s kraal. Madavid is the native name for David, a Basuto, who lives near.

The area covered is fully a third of an acre on the summit of a knoll, which rises some 30 ft. above the valley. Traces of walls covering an area of an acre and a half are to be seen on the south, west, and north sides. Large granite boulders have been utilised in the construction, the walls being carried in curved lines from boulder to boulder, enclosing a rudely drawn circular area 51 ft. from east to west, and 42 ft. from north to south. In one instance the wall is carried over a boulder.

The faces of the walls show good workmanship, the courses being fairly even, the joints uniformly distributed, and the blocks regular in size. The bases of the walls average from 4 ft. to 5 ft. in width, while the very reduced summits are 3 ft. 6 in. wide at 5 ft. from the ground. The walls display a carefulness in construction which is absent from some of the divisional walls of the main ruins at Zimbabwe. The side walls of the entrance on the east side of the building are most perfectly rounded. There is no mural decoration. The interior of the building is of earth, which contains Kafir pottery, etc. No exploration work has been done here.

MAPAKU, OR “LITTLE ZIMBABWE” RUINS

These ruins are situated at a distance of seven miles south-east of Zimbabwe, and occupy a position overlooking the Motelekwe Valley, and are on the eastern side of the lower shoulders of the southern extremity of the Beroma Range. On the south side of the ruins the ground falls in the direction of the Motelekwe River, which here flows south to south-west of the ruins at the distance of about a mile. The Mapaku kraal is a quarter of a mile north-west of the ruins. At the village are some caves (I-Baku, cave; Mapaku, caves). The headman is a Molinye, younger brother to the Mogabe Handisibishe of Zimbabwe. Good water can be obtained from several places in the vicinity of the ruins.

The area covered by these ruins, excepting traces of outlying walls, is 70 ft. from north to south, and 80 ft. from east to west. Though the ruins are small in area, yet they have a considerable importance, seeing that they form one of the ruins of the chain of such structures which stretches at certain intervals from Zimbabwe along the Motelekwe River, which chain again connects with the chain of a similar class of ruins running from the lower Sabi in Portuguese territory in the direction of Sofala. The chains of ruins appear to point out the ancient approach from the coast to the metropolitan centre at Zimbabwe and the gold districts of Southern Mashonaland and Matabeleland.

The thickness and height of the walls are the first features which will strike anyone on entering the building, especially when the small size of the centre ruins are taken into consideration. The walls are all built on curved lines, and average a width of 4 to 5 ft. at the base, and 3 ft. at present reduced summits at 8 ft. above the ground. All the walls are built upon the granite rock formation, and there is comparatively very little soil on the floors, and most of this is black vegetable mould. Fortunately these ruins have not been subjected to the filling-in operations of the very old Kafir peoples as have so very many ancient ruins in Rhodesia. The absence of sufficient soil for the growth of large trees has no doubt saved the walls from more serious dilapidation. The walls are white with lichen, this being a feature in all the ruins along the Motelekwe Valley, which, seen from Zimbabwe, is usually filled with mist-fogs.

The main entrance evidently is the one on the south-west side of the building, for here is a long narrow passage leading from the interior, the passage running parallel to the south main wall forming an easily defended approach. The ruins have only two entrances—the main entrance and an angular entrance on the north side without portcullis grooves. This latter entrance leads into an outer enclosure only, and is protected on the inside by what may be described as a “sentry-box.” This is a curved wall 7 ft. long and 5 ft. high, enclosing a small area large enough to hold two or three men, and its entrance opens on to the inside of the entrance in the main wall. There are several of these “sentry-boxes” at Zimbabwe occupying exactly similar positions near entrances.

The interior of the building contains at least four enclosures and two long passages, and these may be described as follows:—

No. 1 Enclosure, which is on the north-east side of the ruins, is 22 ft. from east to west, and 13 ft. 6 in. from north to south. The floor is formation rock covered over (1903) with a few inches’ depth of vegetable mould. The main wall, which forms its north and east sides, is 6 ft. high throughout, the wall on the west is 8 ft. high, and the curved walls which divide this enclosure from No. 2 Enclosure average 6 ft. and 7 ft. in height, except at the entrance to No. 2 Enclosure, where the height on either side is reduced to 5 ft.

No. 2 Enclosure, which is roughly circular in form, is only approached by one entrance, and this is on its north side, and leads from No. 1 Enclosure. This entrance is angular, and has portcullis grooves, and is 2 ft. 8 in. wide and 3 ft. 6 in. long. The walls of this enclosure are substantially built, being 3 ft. wide at their summits, which average 7 ft. to 9 ft. in height. The area enclosed is 20 ft. from north to south, and 24 ft. from east to west. This enclosure, judging by its complicated approach, was evidently the principal part of the ruins.

Nos. 1 and 2 Enclosures are only approached by a passage 25 ft. long running north and south, which is 2 ft. 10 in. wide at its northern end and widens to 6 ft. 6 in. at the south end. The west wall of the passage is from 5 ft. to 6 ft. high, and that on the east side 7 ft. to 8 ft. high.

Leading from the north end of this passage into No. 1 Enclosure is a covered entrance, 5 ft. high, 2 ft. 6 in. wide, and 5 ft. long. The roof is supported by flat granite slabs. On either side, and extending from floor to roof, are portcullis grooves. This entrance is somewhat dilapidated, and it is feared that one side of it may soon fall down.

No. 3 Enclosure is bounded on the north by the divisional wall of No. 2 Enclosure, on the east and south by the curved main wall, and on the west by a very dilapidated divisional wall, which separates it from No. 4 Enclosure. It is 21 ft. 6 in. from north to south at its widest point, and about 35 ft. from east to west at its longest point.

This enclosure is the first to be approached from the main or west entrance to the building, with which it is connected by a passage running parallel to the south main wall for 28 ft. Where the passage enters No. 3 Enclosure are the remains of a rounded buttress on the north side. From this buttress the passage westwards is 4 ft. 6 in. wide, but quickly narrows to 2 ft. 8 in., which width is maintained till it reaches the main entrance. The wall on the south side of the passage is from 6 ft. to 9 ft. high, and that on the north side averages 5 ft., but is greatly dilapidated toward its eastern end.

No. 4 Enclosure is on the western side of the building, and is 41 ft. from north to south at its broadest part, and 39 ft. from east to west at its longest part.

On the south side of the exterior are two circular stone foundations of one course each. These are 9 ft. in diameter. A number of granite blocks lie to the east of the building, and suggest the former existence of some structure.

The construction as a whole is somewhat similar to that seen in some of the buildings in the Valley of Ruins at Zimbabwe. Straight joints and tilted blocks, long and shallow in form, and a disregard of courses, are the principal features in the workmanship shown in these ruins. There is no mural decoration.

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