My dear Friend: Your own observations on the prevailing modes of dress will have told you very plainly that, excepting caps and bonnets, there is nothing either very new or very striking. The caps are, however, unquestionably becoming, full of that fairy grace and elegance which distinguish the workmanship of a Parisian artiste. I send you a sketch of one which you will find extremely becoming. The foundation is a caul of black net, in front of which a wreath of roses with foliage and grass surrounds the face, the part crossing the forehead being of leaves alone, and forming a small point, À la Marie Stuart. A single row of black lace is laid on the caul behind the wreath, and the lappets are formed of black velvet ribbon, edged all round with the same lace. They droop from the summit of the crown down each side. The back of the crown is covered with falling loops of the same ribbon. Morning caps of white lace are frequently trimmed with plain blond sarsnet ribbon (pink or blue) formed with a succession of bows, terminating in one on each side the face. The lace itself approaches the face only on the forehead, where it forms a point. Several morning caps have two rows of blond lace, in which case a few bows of ribbon, like those on the cheek, are placed on the ear, between them. All have small bows, and very long floating ends at the back of the neck. It is not at all uncommon to see them half a yard long.

The bonnets, which begin to assume something of an autumnal aspect, are decidedly pretty. Though not of a close shape, they are not now suspended at the back of the hair, as they frequently were a little while ago. The purple is still visible, but that is all. Fancy straws are very much worn trimmed with plaid or flowered ribbons. Groups of wheat ears, poppies, and grass are placed at each side of the bonnet, when the ribbon is of a kind with which such decorations will harmonize. For the interior a great deal of blond is worn, and it would appear quite de rigueur that the two sides should by no means correspond. If a flower is placed in the blond on one side, a knot of velvet ribbon will be seen on the other; and one will be placed on the temple, while the other is low down on the cheek. Roses and black velvet are the most common; and the prettiest trimmings for the interior of a straw bonnet. I saw one which had a remarkably elegant effect; and as I think it would be generally becoming, I give you the description: The chapeau of paille-de-riz, spotted with black, had the brim edged with black velvet, cut bias, and covering about an inch of its depth outside and in. In the interior a very narrow black lace edged it. The bonnet, of that deep pink which nearly approaches rose, was edged in the same way, the lace falling from the velvet on the silk. A broad ribbon of the same hue simply crossed the crown and formed the strings. It had narrow black velvet ribbon run all round it. The interior had a double quilling of white blond all round the face; a single rose, with its foliage, was placed on one side, and on the other a quilling of black lace, and one of pink ribbon filled up the corresponding space. I have seen some pretty dress bonnets, of alternate ruches of ribbon and black lace, with a perfect wreath of rose-buds round the outside of the brim. In one bonnet, of cinnamon ribbon and black lace, the wreath could not certainly have been composed of less than forty buds, besides foliage.

By the way, I do not know if I mentioned to you the new style of habit-shirt and sleeve which are so much worn in morning toilette. In case I have not, I send you a specimen. The collars have a hem about half an inch wide, stitched all round. Above this are eight, ten, or even twelve minute tucks, run with exquisite neatness. The front of the habit-shirt corresponds, being made one wide tuck and the same number of narrow ones as are in the collar, alternately run from the throat to the waist. A piece of muslin goes down the front, with a broad hem at each edge, a few narrow ones close to them, and a row of ornamental buttons down the front. The sleeves, which are À la duchesse, have the band composed of small tucks, and a frill nearly four inches wide, but slightly sloped towards the join, made to correspond with the collar and habit-shirt.

In articles of fancy there is little to remark, this being emphatically the dull season. Bags, however, are almost universally used for carrying the handkerchief, and purses for holding the money. I must say I am glad of this; those clumsy, ugly, porte-monnaies, with their clasps that never would fasten, were always my aversion. You will say, why did I use them? Que voulez vous? At Paris one must follow the fashion, unless one would wish to be remarked. The law of opinion, is, to the full, as binding as the law of the land. And, by the by, what a curious phenomenon is a truly Parisian rage, or passion, or enthusiasm; or whatever else you like to designate a general admiration and approbation of novelty.

According to the grand, but painfully true poem of Charles Mackay

And certain it is that really great men have too often lived and died without seeing their genius appreciated; and in smaller matters it requires enormous interest, or some fortuitous circumstances, or an enormous amount of puffing, to induce the public to recognize merit. It is very different here; real excellence, taste, or skill, is certain of success, no matter in what line it may be exercised. The invention of an elegant headdress, or a novelty in fancy-work, of no matter what (always provided it be really good), may reckon confidently on universal encouragement. I have lately seen a curious illustration of this fact. The owner of a pastry store invented a cake, dedicated it to the Princess Mathilde, and he is making a rapid fortune. The GÂteau Mathilde took at once. How many years would it have required elsewhere to give such a thing the same celebrity?

This energy of admiration, which insures success to the deserving in every line, which gives distinction to those who seek that recompense for their talents, and fortune to those who labor for it, is one of those points which, I confess, I sincerely admire in the Parisian character. Going into a fashionable shop at an hour when all the world is, or is supposed to be, at dinner, I found only one of the young lady assistants, and she was busily employed embroidering a handkerchief. On my taking it up and admiring it, she observed: "Oh, that is very trifling, it is only for myself." I remarked, that it was early to have finished business. "Oh, we have not done for the day; but Madame always allows us half an hour for recreation after dinner, so I was amusing myself with this work." I have noticed, too, in this as in many other shops in Paris, that chairs or stools are placed on both sides of the counter, and that, when the customer is seated, the demoiselle takes a seat also, before beginning to display her goods. This is one of the French fashions that I should greatly like to see followed elsewhere.

Yours, very truly, V.