A beaten track does not present the same novelty as a fresh one, except in the case of countries in what is still termed the New World, and which are again about to be described. It was in 1853 I last visited Brazil and the River Plate, and published my observations upon them. An interval of fifteen years has wrought many changes and produced wonderful progress there, and if the Southern portion of the American Continent has not kept pace with the Northern it may be chiefly ascribed to the continued great influx of emigrant population to the latter from all parts of Europe, but consisting chiefly of the Anglo-Saxon race. From this cause, even the loss of at least a million of American citizens by the great civil war has caused no perceptible diminution in the American census, because it is constantly replenished from Europe. The African race has, however, come to the surface in a most unlooked-for manner, their shackles having been removed by a violent shock, which has, for a time at least, caused great social disturbance, and left the Southern States more or less at the mercy of the “niggers,” as the blacks are generally termed. What may be the ultimate result, or how things will “settle down,” is yet a problem to be solved. Meantime, slavery in Brazil remains a domestic institution, but it is doomed to inevitable extinction. The process of emancipation will be watched with much interest by all who desire to see the Brazilian Empire rise to the position it is capable of attaining. The tide of emigration to Brazil, spite of this disadvantage, has, however, fairly set in, and the subject will be treated of in its proper place. Happily, in the River Plate there exists no such hindrance to the development of free labour, for which it also presents a boundless field, and it will be the study of the writer to show how a portion, at all events, of the surplus population of Europe can be located there, to the great advantage of those who embrace the opening as well as of the country itself, whose chief and most urgent want is labour. The Paraguayan war and the terrible ravages of the cholera have been a great drawback to internal improvement in the Argentine Republic, but it is gratifying to think that the encouraging picture drawn by the writer on his first visit to the Plate has been more than realised—the motto of the Platine States should now be “Peace and Progress.” The “log” of an outward-bound passenger on board an ocean steamer now possesses but little interest; still, a record of the changes which have taken place in the means of transit since my last voyage, made fifteen years ago, may be worthy of notice, and will also afford information to those who contemplate a trip to Brazil or the River Plate. Success does not always attend even the best organised and most promising enterprises, but all experience had even then proved that there was ample scope for the employment of capital in promoting intercourse by means of steam with those countries that can only be reached by crossing the ocean. The South American Company, with which at that time I was connected, started under unfortunate circumstances. Ships were high in price, and rates of fuel were exorbitant by reason of the Crimean War. They lost in addition two of their steamers in a most unlooked-for manner, which sadly deranged their operations; but emphatically the two grave errors committed by the company were, first, in building more ships than they could raise capital to pay for; and, secondly, in abandoning the line after their experience had thus been paid for, and at the very moment when the traffic was becoming lucrative; for there can be no question that had they continued to run their steamers, instead of being seduced by the tempting terms of charter offered by Government, they would now have been in existence as a powerful company, paying good dividends. This was not to be however, and on the abandonment of the line, the Royal Mail Company was left without a competitor, and so enabled to realise large profits. Had this latter company read rightly the signs of the times, or met the requirements of commerce by despatching a steamer once a month from Liverpool, alternately with their regular mail from Southampton, they would not only have made more money, but to a considerable extent rendered themselves independent of Government subsidies. Their monopoly was exercised injuriously for the interests of the countries they were trading to, of which the French Emperor had the sagacity to take advantage, by subsidizing a company from Bordeaux, which has continued a most successful career, for it cannot be disputed that French steam navigation and the development of French commerce are almost entirely due to his Imperial Majesty's remarkable prescience. As a natural consequence of increased facilities the passenger traffic with Brazil and the River Plate has wonderfully increased, and at times both lines are inconveniently crowded, the French one being for some reason preferred by South Americans and foreigners. Subsequently some unsuccessful attempts were made to establish other steam lines to Brazil. What was termed the Brokers' line was started from Liverpool to the River Plate, but it was not until Messrs. Lamport and Holt took the business in hand that private steam navigation was established on a firm basis from that port, and the fine fleet of the astronomical line now supersedes to a considerable extent the use of sailing ships. They have also entered into a contract with the British Government to despatch a mail steamer on the 20th of every month, the first (the Hipparchus) having left Liverpool on the 20th August last. Last on the list comes what is now generally known as “Tait's” line, on board one of the steamers of which, the City of Limerick, I am now embarked. They are fine steamers, with superior accommodation for first-class passengers at very moderate rates. A line from London, calling at Falmouth, has long been a favourite project, which Messrs. Tait have at length carried into effect with every prospect of success. They have wisely appreciated the growing requirements of population in Brazil and the River Plate, and are preparing to convey a number of third-class passengers by their steamers at a cheap rate. By confining their operations to Rio de Janeiro and the River Plate they are enabled to land goods and passengers at Monte Video and Buenos Ayres under 30 days. The importance of this line has been greatly enhanced by the contract entered into with the Belgian Government, under which the steamers are to call at Antwerp on their way out and home, the latter after landing passengers at Falmouth.^[1]

This brief reference to the progress of steam navigation to Brazil and the River Plate will show the growth of passenger traffic during the last few years, and sufficiently indicate the great increase of commerce with these countries, not only as regards Great Britain, but also as respects continental ports, which will be more clearly illustrated in later portions of this volume; meantime, as an index to passenger traffic, it is my intention to obtain statistics from the different companies, and to present them in a table which will speak for itself. I may further remark that a steam company has been formed to run from Marseilles to the River Plate, and another between the United States and Brazil, the latter with a subsidy from these two Governments, which cannot fail to be mutually advantageous, and to promote the great object of emigration. Altogether a very large amount of capital is employed in linking this portion of the old world and the new by means of steam navigation. That it will further increase no one can doubt, particularly should the tide of emigration from Europe set in freely towards those countries, as I firmly believe will soon be the case.

And now we are moving along towards St. Vincent,—expecting to pass the island of Madeira to-morrow (24th December), five days out from Falmouth, almost entirely under steam, a breeze from the north-west, which favoured us for 24 hours after leaving Falmouth, having gradually headed us. The speed of the vessel under steam only is 9 to 10 knots, but if we catch a good trade wind our progress southward ought to be very rapid. The City of Limerick is an excellent sea boat and all is very comfortable on board. My order of proceeding this time will still be something in the narrative form, as more adapted to the task I have set myself of recording the progress made, and the changes that have taken place since my last short visit to South America in 1853.

December 24th.—Passed close to the westward of Madeira, the island being enveloped in dense masses of black clouds, which poured forth their liquid streams, forming some dozen cascades of all sizes, one being conspicuous, reaching from the very top of the mountain down to the sea. No one would imagine the beauty and fertility of this island to judge from its western aspect, so different from the south-eastern side, which is well cultivated, and presents very pleasing views as you approach in that direction the Bay of Funchal. Madeira has changed very little I believe of late years, nor is it likely to do so with absurd quarantine laws in existence, which prevent vessels calling, and limits the number of visitors. The cultivation of sugar cane succeeded that of the vine, after the destruction of the latter, about the time of my former visit to the island, but to the detriment of its sanatory condition, as the refuse canes were allowed to rot, and impregnated the atmosphere offensively; otherwise, in its former glory of vines and fig trees, the island was a little garden of Hesperides. Now that real Madeira wine has become a scarce commodity connoisseurs praise it extensively, and it is to be hoped a few years will enable the island again to supply a genuine article instead of the spurious trash commonly sold under the name of Madeira wine. The real thing is only to be found in choice old cellars, and no doubt a glass of it is a very great treat.

Christmas Day, 1867.—Spent this day on the “deep blue sea,” with a steady north-east trade blowing, which carries us swiftly along, and, if all goes well, we shall reach St. Vincent on Saturday by daylight, so as to get into the harbour and coal during the night. Nine days from Falmouth will be a very good passage. The weather has become warm, with bright sunny days and starlight nights, the days lengthening as we proceed southward. Certainly the change from an English winter is very sensibly felt, and must exercise a beneficial influence on the human frame. All traces of sea sickness have vanished from those of the passengers who were afflicted with it during the first few days, and they are now on deck, basking in the sunshine, but they will soon require the protection of awnings, as we shall then be within the tropics. Different opinions exist as to the comparative comfort of the paddle-wheel and screw. I prefer the latter, irrespective of its economy, as advantage can be taken of every favouring breeze, and except with the wind right aft, a screw steamer is steadier than a paddle wheel one. Many object to the continual thud of the screw and to the tremulous motion of the ship, but the latter is less felt in screw steamers than formerly, from the application of improved machinery and the placing of the screw well down in the water. On the other hand, the continual plunging of paddle wheels is tiresome, and they keep up a certain amount of spray which is not experienced with the screw. It is quite true that a ship is a thing “you never can be quiet in,” whether propelled merely by sails, by paddle, or by screw—as everyone knows who has had experience, but this does not prevent sleep, or indulgence at times in that dolce far niente which is supposed to belong only to dwellers on land, under the soothing influence of an Italian sky. After all, how much we are indebted to steam, not only for comfort, but for our knowledge of distant countries. I remember several voyages made to Brazil in my early days, when 20 to 30 days were often taken to accomplish what we did yesterday in five days,—namely, passing the island of Madeira to gain the north-east trades.

St. Vincent.—Saturday evening, the 28th December, brought us safely into Porto Grande, the great coaling harbour for steamers bound to the South Atlantic, and where as many as twenty steamers a month are now coaled from the coaling establishment of Mr. Miller (also her Majesty's Consul for the Cape Verde Islands), who has at great expense built a high and low level pier, with large coal stores, a number of iron lighters and screw tugs which are employed to tow the coal barges alongside the steamers; in fact, it is impossible for anything to be more complete than the coaling arrangements here, which admit of sending off about 700 tons a day. Three vessels had to be coaled during Sunday, and two got away by night—ourselves, and a French steamer, bound from Marseilles to Brazil and the River Plate, with about 550 emigrants on board, chiefly for the River. We left, to complete her coaling the next day, the splendid new steamer the Sumatra, Captain Brown, belonging to the Pacific and Oriental Company, bound out to India, to take up her station between Bombay and Suez; she is 2,500 tons, and 500 horse power, both built by Denny Brothers, of Dumbarton. She has accommodation of the most luxurious kind for 150 first-class passengers, and is equipped in a most perfect manner. St. Vincent is her only coaling port between England and Bombay, and this was merely a matter of precaution, as she had on board sufficient to take her to India. A Russian screw corvette with a number of training cadets on board was also at anchor in the Bay when we arrived, but she sailed away southward about noon on Sunday. With the increasing demand for steam traffic to the southern hemisphere, the importance of Porto Grande as a coaling station cannot be overrated. We expected to have picked up some news from Brazil and the River Plate, but unfortunately the Royal Mail Company's steamer Seine (overdue a week) had not arrived, and various surmises were raised as to the cause of this unusual delay, which we shall only learn later on. The Brazil and River Plate Service, both by the above company and the French Messageries Imperiales, has been for many years performed with great regularity. Owing to the many steamers calling at St. Vincent, a good supply of fresh meat, fruit, eggs, &c., can now be obtained there, brought from the neighbouring islands, as St. Vincent itself continues as barren of verdure as ever. The town has extended itself somewhat, several new public buildings having been erected, including a Custom House, and some pretty cottages on the hill overlooking the harbour, for the use of Mr. Miller's numerous establishments. For the information of such of my readers as may not be conversant with the Cape Verde Islands, I reprint my remarks upon them contained in my former work already alluded to, as I shall also continue to do in other places, for a similar reason, besides the additional one of diffusing information as to countries with which we are so intimately linked by commercial and political ties. A submarine cable, connecting these Islands with Madeira and Lisbon, would be very useful, and will most probably come in time, as a link in the chain of our communications with South America and the coast of Africa. Its existence would shorten the time of receiving and transmitting news between England and Brazil very considerably, and the evils arising from such an event as the detention or loss of the Seine be greatly mitigated:—

The Cape Verds consist of seven principal islands, and were tolerably populous, but of late years have been subjected to a continuous emigration to South America and the West Indies, where, like the hardy mountaineers from Madeira, they are found most useful in tilling the soil, and in other laborious occupations; thus demonstrating the fallacy of the old notion, that laziness is the predominant element in the Spanish and Portuguese idiosyncrasy. What appears to be a present disadvantage, in regard to this human flight from the Verds, may prove beneficial hereafter, when the Ilheos (as they are called) return to their homes, possessed of a little money wherewith to improve their social and moral condition. The islands produce wine, barilla, large quantities of orchilla weed, and cochineal, the cultivation of which is rapidly forming a more and more considerable item of export. Steam navigation will ere long bring them into much closer commercial contact with the world, and enhance the appreciation of their products and natural advantage. The climate is fine, though subject to occasional high temperature and frequent droughts. Despite the name Verds, suggestive of Arcadian animation, nothing can be more desolate than the appearance of the islands, as approached from the sea; bold, high rocks, against which the surge breaks violently, with mountains towering in the clouds, are general characteristics, to which those of the island of St. Vincent offer no exception. On our arrival the weather was thick, with drizzling rain, as we made Porto Grande; and only cleared up in time to enable us to see Bird Island, a most remarkable sugar-loaf rock, standing right in the entrance of the bay, after passing which we reached the anchorage ground in a few minutes. A more convenient little harbour can hardly be imagined, being nearly surrounded with hills (or mountains as they may be called), which protect it from all winds save the westward, where Bird Island stands as a huge beacon, most admirably adapted for a lighthouse, and on which it is to be hoped one will soon be placed. There is deep water close to the shore on most sides of the bay, that where the town is built being the shallowest; and here some wooden jetties are run out, having very extensive coal and patent fuel depÔts close at hand where these combustibles are put into iron lighters, and sent off to the vessels. So beautifully clear is the water in the bay that you can see the bottom at a depth of from twenty to thirty feet, literally alive with fish of all kinds, but for which the people seem to care very little, either for home consumption or export, though there is no doubt that, in the latter direction, a large business might be done with profitable results.

Porto Grande must become a most important coaling station, situated as it is midway between Europe and South America, and close to the African coast. Several important steam companies have already adopted it, viz., the Royal Mail (Brazil), the General Screw, the Australian, as also the South American, and General Steam Navigation Company, whilst occasional steamers are, likewise, glad to touch at it. At the period at which I am writing, the Great Britain was the last that coaled here, on her way to Australia. In order to meet this increased demand, a proportionate degree of activity and exertion is observable onshore; and a large number of iron lighters, carrying from fifteen to forty tons each, are now in constant requisition, loaded, and ready to be taken alongside the steamers the instant they cast anchor. Unfortunately there is a very poor supply of water, the want of it having been the occasion of frequent emigration in the history of the islands; but it is understood to be attainable at a slight expense; and a small outlay conjointly made by the steam companies might not only procure a plentiful provision of this all-necessary element, but also other conveniences, essential to the comfort of passengers. There is no doubt that, as the place progresses, supplies of meat, fruit, and vegetables will be forwarded thither from the neighbouring islands, which are so productive that there is a considerable export of corn; and the cattle are numerous. Until lately fowls were only a penny a piece; and turtles abound. Hitherto there has been no regular marketable demand for such things; but one, and a large one too, is henceforth established, from the causes assigned, and will doubtless be regularly and economically supplied. The labourers here are chiefly free blacks and Kroomen, from the coast of Africa, most of whom speak English, and chatter away at a great rate, as they work in gangs, with a kind of boatswain over them, who uses a whistle to direct their toil—the movements of all the race of Ham to the days of Uncle Tom, being seemingly susceptible of regulation to musical noise of some sort or other; whether the “concord of sweet sounds,” or what would appear to be such to more refined ears, does not greatly matter.

But for want of vegetation in its neighbourhood, a more picturesque little bay than Porto Grande can hardly be conceived. Towering a short distance above the town, is a kind of table mountain, some 2,500 feet high; and at the opposite side, forming the south-west entrance, is another very lofty one, remarkable as representing the colossal profile of a man lying on his back, À la Prometheus. He has his visage towards heaven, wherein there are generally soaring vultures enough to devour him up were he a trifle less tender than volcanic granite. The features are perfect, even to the eyebrows; and a very handsome profile it makes, though it does not appear that any tropical Æschylus has yet converted the material to the humblest legendary, much less epic, purpose. On the shore ground, forming the right side of the bay, looking towards the town, is a neat little monument, erected to the lamented lady of Colonel Cole, who died here on her way home from India. The spot where she lies is, from its quietude and seclusion, most meet for such a resting-place, there being a small, conical hill behind, with a cottage or two near, and a sprinkling of vegetation on the low ground between, serving to “keep her memory green” in the mind of many an ocean voyager in his halt at this half-way house between the younger and the elder world.

This little town was thrown back sadly by the epidemic which afflicted it in 1850 and decimated the population. During its continuance Mr. Miller, one of the few English residents, did so much in assisting the inhabitants as to elicit from the late Queen of Portugal the honour of a knighthood, in one of the first orders in her dominions. It requires no small degree of patience and philanthropy to aid the development of a place like this, labouring, as it does, under such great natural difficulties, and where everything has to be brought from a distance, there not being a tree or a blade of grass to be seen—nothing but dry, arid sand, or a burnt-up kind of soil. Undoubtedly, the heat is very great at times; and there are about three months of blowing, rainy weather, which is the only period when vessels might be subjected to inconvenience whilst coaling, as the southerly winds drive up a good deal of sea into the bay. There is an English Consul resident here, Mr. Rendall, who has done much to assist in bringing these islands into notice, and into comparative civilization; and, by so doing, has many times over reimbursed this country in the cost of his stipend of £400 a year, saying nothing of the services he has performed to shipping, in the ordinary discharge of his duties.

Cape Verds are a very numerous family of islands, called after a cape on the African coast (originally named Cabo Verde, or Green Cape, by the Portuguese), to which they lie contiguous, though at a considerable distance from each other in some cases. All are of volcanic formation—one, that of Fogo, or Fuego, once very celebrated as being visible, especially in the night time, at an immense distance at sea. The islands generally do not possess any very attractive points, being unlike Madeira and the Canaries in this respect, as well as in extent of population, that of the latter being four or five times more numerous than the others—say about 200,000 in one, 40,000 in the other case, though some statements make the inhabitants of the Verds considerably more. The islands are occasionally subject to shocks of earthquakes; and there was rather a strong one at Porto Grande the night before we left, supposed on board our vessel to be thunder, from the noise it made, though we were not aware until next day that a shock had been felt on shore. The chief product is salt, a valuable article for vessels trading to South America, though it is here manufactured by the somewhat primitive process of letting the sea-water into the lowlands, where the sun evaporates it. Though Porto Grande, in St. Vincent, is the great place for shipping, and as such almost the only place of interest for passengers in transit, Ribera Grande, in St. Jago, the principal island, and most southerly of the group, is the chief town, though it is at Porto Playa (often touched at by ships on the Indian voyage) that the Governor General resides, particularly in the dry season. The island second in importance, in point of size, is St. Nicholas, where are some small manufactories, in the shape of cotton-stuffs, leather, stockings, and other matters. The orchilla weed, however, is the great object of governmental interest, and its monopoly is said to yield some £60,000 per annum; the same wise policy that grasps at that interdicting the manufacture of wine, though grapes grow in profusion, and are of excellent quality for the production of a very acceptable beverage.

December 31st, 1867.—The last day of the old year is an event that calls for reflection and particularly at sea, when the mind is generally more open than elsewhere to receive impressions, and free to take into review the past—to enquire how the time has been spent. Few of us, probably, can answer this question satisfactorily, but at all events it is desirable to make the enquiry. There is no postman's knock at the door, no friends to see, nor any to seek us out. Our little world is the ship on which we are sailing, and those within it, the greater part of whom have been utter strangers to each other previous to embarkation. Selfishness under such circumstances finds its level, or is confined within very narrow bounds, and a common instinct draws every one together, until at the end of the voyage, when those who are only passengers part, and go each on his several mission, few in all likelihood ever to meet again in their various walks in life. Most leave friends behind, whom they look forward to rejoining, or they have friends to welcome them in the new countries to which they are speeding their way. The great ocean brings strikingly home to us the wondrous works of the Almighty Ruler of the Universe, and the littleness of man himself. Again, we are apt to forget the immensity of the ocean, which, as compared with the land, is computed at 145¾ million of statute miles against 51 million square statute miles of land, or a total of both of 196¾ millions. A little incident occurred this morning in our meeting the screw steamer Uruguay (which signalised twenty days out from the River Plate), one of the Liverpool line of steamers, making her way to St. Vincent to coal, and she will, no doubt, report us at home. Time did not afford opportunity for exchanging news, which would have been very acceptable on both sides. We also passed an American ship steering northward, being now in the track of vessels homeward bound, 10° 30´ north latitude and 26° 30´ east longitude; a fine steady breeze driving us, with the aid of the screw, fully eleven knots an hour.

January 4th, 1868.—We have crossed the line, gone through the variables, and are in the south-east trades. The air is cool and pleasant, and the ship making nearly twelve miles an hour, with a smooth sea and little motion—the perfection of sailing. There is a freshness about the Southern hemisphere which I have always enjoyed. Steady breezes and a clear sky, with light fleecy clouds. We passed several vessels yesterday standing to the northward, amongst them a fine Yankee screw corvette, which hoisted her number, but she was not in our signal book. Less than another week of this weather will take us into Rio de Janeiro, in somewhat over 20 days, which will be a very good passage, and we have certainly been very much favoured in having fair, moderate weather, with scarcely any rain, and no squalls. The great advantage of steam over sailing ships is not only much quicker passages, but running out of calms or variable winds, and making a straight course to the point of destination.

January 10th, 1868.—We made Cape Frio light, off Rio de Janeiro, about midnight, and came into harbour early this morning, twenty-one and a half days from Falmouth. After the usual formalities in connection with the health and custom-house departments, we steamed up to the coal island, and were soon moored alongside, ready for coaling and discharging cargo. There were fewer ships in the bay than I ever remember to have seen. Her Majesty's store-ship Egmont was lying there, and one or two other vessels of war. A splendid Spanish frigate, the Blanca, which had participated in the bombardment of Valparaiso, steamed out of harbour as we came in, but whither bound no one could say. On going on shore I found the landing place not much improved, and the custom-house formalities had increased in rigour, extending even to a charge on the small quantity of luggage required for a change whilst on shore. It is a mistake in an enlightened country like Brazil to subject passengers to such absurd regulations, which can bring in very little revenue and get the country a bad name. In other respects little or no restriction is experienced in going to or from the ship, either day or night. We found the news from the seat of war unsatisfactory as regards its progress, and, what was worse, we learned that the cholera was raging at Buenos Ayres, vessels from the River Plate being placed in quarantine on arrival at Rio; but the latter city was healthy, notwithstanding the great heat which, during the two days we remained in harbour, was most intense, the thermometer in the shade being over 90°. Working all night enabled the steamer to be ready to start again on Sunday morning, the 12th January, when we again sailed from Rio on our way to the River.