If it appears a long time in reaching here after passing the wonders of the Serra, I was not disappointed either in the first peep at the city or by a more intimate acquaintance with it. One cannot help marvelling how the adventurous handful of men who originally penetrated the forests and founded these cities in South America had the courage and perseverance to do so; but I believe they availed, in many cases, of the Indian tracks, and doubtless of Indian assistance occasionally. The city has rather an imposing aspect as you wind round it to the station, being built on a ridge of high ground which overlooks the River TietÉ—a stream rising in the neighbouring hills, and after traversing nearly the whole of the province, eventually finds its way to the Parana and the Paraguay. At the railway station sundry omnibuses and carriages were waiting to receive the passengers. We drove to the Hotel d'Italia, where a friend had taken rooms for us, and found ourselves tolerably comfortable in a large house rather the worse for wear, and, like most things in this country, allowed to get out of repair. During the construction of the railway it was the head-quarters of the engineering staff.

The first thing we did next morning was to pay our respects to the President of the Province, who received us very graciously. He is a man of a very expressive, benevolent countenance, and I believe he administers the affairs of the province in a most satisfactory manner—not the easiest of tasks in such troublous times as the present.

A ramble over the city impresses one favourably: good wide streets, paved with a material resembling macadam. It is obtained from one of the neighbouring hills, and forms a capital road. The sides are well made of large flags, much superior to those of Rio de Janeiro, although the pavement there is admirable. There are several fine churches, an extensive new public market, and, as a rule, the houses are well and substantially built. The shops are also numerous and well appointed with all the requisites for convenience and comfort suited to a city of 20,000 to 25,000 inhabitants. There are several national colleges here, with a number of young students, who help to enliven the place. The Province of San Paulo has always held a good position, from the enterprise and spirit of the people, the latter owing in some measure to the cool climate, which even now occasionally renders woollen clothing and blankets at night desirable, and a few months hence it will be positively cold, with ice in the morning. Previously to and since our arrival it has been raining so much that a vast tract of land bordering the TietÉ is overflowed, and travelling must be very bad. We took a drive to the church of Nossa Senhora de Penha, a few miles distant, on elevated ground, from whence a good view of the city and surrounding country is obtained; but unfortunately rain came on, and we had only to make the best of our way home, the carriages nearly sticking fast in a quagmire. Otherwise the road is a pretty good one.

I may here allude to the kind hospitality of Captain and Mrs. Burton, which rendered our visit an exceedingly agreeable one. On the occasion of this visit to Nossa Senhora de Penha, a curious incident occurred. On our way out Mrs. Burton took a fancy to some geese which were quietly feeding by the roadside, and she determined to make a purchase of them on our way back, although it was raining heavily. After some bargaining the geese were bought, their legs were tied, and each of us took charge of one or more. They were quiet enough until we reached the city, where the people began to pelt us with wax water balls, as it was the Intrudo time, when such pastime is still carried on to a great extent in an old fashioned place like San Paulo. The geese became alarmed, struggled to release themselves, and after some difficulty and much amusement we got them safely disposed of in the yard attached to the Consulate. Geese are very plentiful in Brazil, but there is a prejudice against them amongst the natives as food, from an idea that they eat snakes and other vermin, but a few weeks good domestic feeding is calculated to do away with any objection of this sort, as we had occasion to find in the excellent quality of these very geese when we afterwards dined at the Consulate.

A ridge of mountains forms a background to the north-west of San Paulo, in some of which are gold mines that have been long abandoned, nor is the mineral wealth of the province at all developed. The railway may bring with it new enterprise of this kind, but it will be slow work.

I went over the San Bento Convent, where only one priest appears to reside in an enormous building, a portion of which has lately been fitted up with considerable taste. The church is also kept in good order, but it seems absurd for only one man to occupy such a building. The wealth of religious orders in Brazil is by no means insignificant, and it would be to the advantage of the country and of the people if this was made available for national purposes. Religion would be better appreciated, and the State would be able to form colonies in some of the richest lands of the Empire, which naturally enough fell into the hands of religious bodies.

It is said that the Tropic of Capricorn passes close to the city of San Paulo, but of course the exact spot cannot be defined. There is plenty of fruit and vegetables to be had, grapes are abundant and very cheap, good milk and fresh butter are easily obtainable, the cow going round to the houses in the morning with a bell attached to her, and generally the calf following. Indeed, a great many of the comforts and conveniences of life are to be found here which do not exist in other Brazilian towns, whilst the climate is infinitely superior. For many months of the year the thermometer ranges about 60°, and at times goes down to 40°; on the other hand it is sometimes very hot, but of short duration. This morning I saw a black boy in the street engaged in the occupation of shoeblack, with his little box and brushes very much after the London style. In fact there is a more general inclination to work when it is not so intensely hot. There goes the railway whistle, the train starting for Santos, and it will return about 3 p.m., bringing the passengers by steamer from Rio, which left there yesterday. There are two fast steamers a week between Rio and Santos, so the communication is well kept up.

The number of old fashioned waggons or carts on two solid wooden wheels, drawn by teams of oxen according to the weight carried, and the constant passage of them, and of mules and horses, the former with tinkling bells, all laden with country produce, indicate the nature of the traffic which existed prior to the opening of the railway, rendering the streets of the city a busy scene. The railway being closed between this and Jundiahy no doubt increases this traffic for a time, but it must always exist to a greater or a less degree, as everything for the consumption of the city has to be brought into it by these means. The bulk of the through traffic of coffee and cotton must, however, inevitably find its way on to the rails and be taken down the Serra, as it is impossible mules can compete with a railway for so great a distance. The troops of mules, horses, and carts assemble at shops or warehouses in streets where their business is carried on, their produce discharged, and a certain portion of the animals loaded back to their respective destinations. Hence the perpetual tinkling of bells and creaking of wheels; at the same time a number of carriages and tilburys are constantly in motion, conveying passengers about the city or outskirts, causing a degree of activity one would otherwise hardly expect to find.

Yesterday, Sunday, being the first Sunday in Lent, there was a grand procession, consisting of a large number of figures of saints, carried on men's shoulders, after the old style of chairing an M.P. at home. Sundry children were dressed up as angels, and there were also a military band and some few soldiers; for, as the latter have been drained by the war, only a sufficient number remain to keep guard, &c. The figures are as large as life. They were collected together at the church of San Francisco, a large and rather showy building, and at five o'clock the procession started, amidst discharging of rockets, ringing of bells, and other demonstrations. It passed the street in front of the hotel, and, being a tolerably long one, it had rather an imposing appearance. After traversing the principal streets of the city, it came back by a side one, which also skirted the hotel. A thunder storm had been gathering, and broke over the city just as the procession was reaching the church from whence it started. An indescribable scene of confusion ensued. The pace was quickened, angels were lifted on the shoulders of blacks, the carriers of saints hurried along as fast as the weight permitted—in fact, it was a race with the saints—each trying to pass the other, to the imminent danger of an upset. The only part of the procession which retained a show of decorum was that in charge of the Host, where the high priest walked under a canopy with a number of other priests, accompanied by attendants, swinging censers; and as the Host passed, all the spectators knelt down. Fortunately the rain kept off until the greater part reached the square, and the saints escaped a terrible wetting, as it came down in torrents, with loud peals of thunder and lightning, such as I have rarely met with.

The storm continued in this way for several hours, and curiously enough in the midst of it came a telegram from the Government of Rio de Janeiro, announcing that the iron-clad fleet had succeeded in passing the fortress of Humaita, while a division of Brazilian troops had also taken a redoubt, &c., particulars of which will doubtless shortly reach England. Excitement was at its height, and spite of the thunder, lightning, and rain, houses began to light up, rockets were flying about, and later on, a band of music, with many followers, paraded the streets, playing and shouting vivas, with other joyous demonstrations quite edifying under such an accumulation of atmospheric difficulties. On Monday evening the city was entirely illuminated with candles, lamps, and Chinese lanterns, the latter very pretty, and the effect altogether striking. A full military band paraded the streets, followed by crowds of people; indeed, nearly the whole of the population, male and female, turned out and paraded the streets to a late hour, the wonder being where they all came from. The demonstration continued for three days, or rather nights, but not on so extensive a scale, nor was the firing of rockets so profuse. The news from the seat of war has, therefore, created quite a sensation, the Paulistos being somewhat a martial people, and proud of the exploits of their countrymen before Humaita, though further advices are needed before the war can be considered at an end. A drawback accompanied the war news, namely, the cruel assassination of General Flores at Monte Video, and the sanguinary proceedings that followed on the occasion.

I may mention having attended a sitting of the Provincial Assembly, in a very pokey, close room attached to the palace, with a miserably low gallery at each end for the public. The proceedings, however, were orderly and dignified, and good speeches were made, one by Senhor Leite Moraes, a tall, handsome man, who appears likely to distinguish himself as an orator. The subject under discussion was a complaint against the conduct of the Roman Catholic priests. There are thirty-six members of the Provincial Chambers, who annually attend for a period of two months, and some of them come from considerable distances at much personal inconvenience to themselves. I believe they are to have a larger and better place for conducting their business, which is certainly very desirable. I also visited, in company with Captain Burton, English Consul, one of the seminaries or schools, presided over by French monks, who received us with attention, showed us over the extensive building and well laid-out gardens, and entertained us afterwards with some good English beer. The college, to which a good sized garden is attached, contains accommodation for about one hundred youths, who come here for their education, and remain several months, being comfortably lodged, and, I believe, well cared for.

This is only one of the many similar establishments in San Paulo, which, in this respect, answers to our Cambridge or Oxford. The view from the college is very extensive and picturesque—the city on one side, the large plain in which the city stands, with mountains in the distance, and close to the railway station. We heard the locomotive whistle, and saw the steam a long way off, reaching the station in time to see the train come in with 115 passengers, quite a large number, it being about the period of the students returning. It also brought a company of performers from one of the Rio de Janeiro theatres, who are going to afford the inhabitants a month's display of their artistic skill, so that in all respects the city will be very lively during the season of Lent, one of the eccentricities connected with the Roman Catholic religion. I went to the public gardens, which are at only a little distance from the railway station, and cover a large space of ground. They are in tolerable order, with flower beds and a piece of water in the centre. A considerable sum of money must have been originally expended on them, but not keeping things up is one of the major defects of the system in this country.

I thought processions were over for the present, but last evening there was one of some magnitude, conveying a saint from one church to another, and spite of wet streets after the heavy rain, a large number of people turned out to witness and follow the participants in the ceremony. To-day, however, being Friday, the 6th of March, was set apart for a special occasion—a meeting, not a race of saints; and, for a wonder, the day and night have been remarkably fine, a beautiful bright moon now shining after the great bustle is over and the saints gone to rest, though the illuminated altars in various parts of the city are still glittering in all their tinsel, with numerous worshippers, after depositing in a plate their offerings in the shape of “dumps,” a slang phrase for copper coins. Preparatory symptoms have been going on for some days at a sort of large closet, or “hole in the wall” of the house opposite, belonging to an old nobleman, whose wife departed this life to-day. The folding doors had been opened and a large blue cloth thrown over the sanctuary from a balcony above, but still it was easy to see that something unusual was in progress; and to-day, about the time of the procession, the doors opened, and the curtain was withdrawn, revealing a very pretty altar, with a cross and small figures of saints at the top, the back parts and sides being covered with gold and silver tinsel, and groups or garlands of artificial flowers tastefully arranged, the whole lighted up by an immense number of candles, many of them in silver candlesticks, provided or lent for the occasion by devotees. There were about a dozen or more of these old cupboard altars decked out, each apparently vying for supremacy in effect. But I am forgetting the procession itself, which began to form at five o'clock, accompanied by the usual paraphernalia—a number of young girls dressed up as angels, bands of music, soldiers with fixed bayonets, the President of the Province, and all the dignitaries, with the high priest under a canopy and his attendants as before, whilst in front and behind walked the multitude. The meeting of the saints took place close to the hotel, where a halt was made, and a stout ecclesiastic (the bishop's secretary, I believe), for whom a very large pulpit had been temporarily erected at the corner of four streets, addressed a very energetic discourse to the multitude, until his voice began to get rather squeaky, nor could very much be made of what he said beyond that his listeners were a very bad lot, and required all the intervention of the saints before them to save them from perdition. The sermon ended, some music and singing took place before the altar opposite to our hotel, after which the procession went on, passing all the street altars, and this part of the ceremony ended when the saints were fairly housed. For hours, however, before the bright gaudy altars, and the still brighter moon, the whole population of the place passed in review, making their reverence and depositing their “dumps” or offertories.

Whether or not these ceremonies are conducive to the maintenance of the Roman Catholic Religion I cannot pretend to say, but certainly they are preserved here in all their original stage effect (for it can be called nothing else) just as I first recollect them in Brazil. I understand that in other parts of the Empire they have much fallen off. San Paulo has been more or less isolated, and it is only since the opening of the railway that the foreign element has been introduced. Formerly a voyage to Rio de Janeiro was quite an undertaking; now, by rail and steam, it is an affair of two days. One thing is very clear, that processions and religious observances of this kind are very popular here. It is quite astounding to see the number of people filling the streets, mostly dressed in their best garments, but to-day the ladies wore chiefly black. On the other hand, the black women—the “swells,” as they are called—prefer bright colours, and generally in good taste—white and coloured muslin, with gay shawls thrown over their ample figures, many of them very tall, fine looking women. Considering the dull, monotonous life here, these religious festivals are unquestionably a great relief to the female portion of the population, with whatever motive they may attend them; nor can one help being struck with their apparent earnestness of worship to dumb idols, and the constant stream of “dumps” poured into the plates by high and low, rich and poor, the latter bestowing their mite freely. A parade over the city on such occasions in their best attire, and the opportunity for showing off, has no doubt some influence, but this may be combined with religious feeling, according to their interpretation of it. Amongst the numerous votaries present I may mention the hardy, bronzed, country race, men who travel over the country with mules, leading the life of gipsies, and not unlike them, wrapped in a kind of coloured “poncho,” similar to that worn in the River Plate. They almost live in the saddle, and are a very fine class of men—true Paulistos. But I see they are putting out the lights at the altar opposite, so it is time to extinguish mine and go to bed, as the clock is just striking midnight. To-morrow the folding-doors will be closed, and appear as the ordinary appendages of the house, leaving “not a wreck behind,” except a few leaves of dead flowers scattered about the streets.

After a night's rest, I find that things have assumed their usual quiet course, enlivened only by the continued favourable news from the seat of war, which keeps the church bells going, rockets firing, and bands of music parading the streets at night. These public demonstrations have been of the most lively kind, assisted by a bright moon, without a cloud in the sky; indeed you can see to read by its rays. Moonlight nights are agreeable in any country, but in these tropical countries they seem to have an influence both on body and mind, refreshing the physique and raising the spirits. The atmosphere at this elevated spot is so cool at night that, however hot the day, you sleep in comparative comfort, and awake to enjoy the cool breeze of the early morning.

I took a ride in company with Mrs. Burton in the direction of what is called the Luz, past the railway station, where are numerous country houses, and a handsome bridge over the TietÉ, after which the road goes through low ground, now entirely flooded, forming a swamp of many miles in extent. A couple of miles further on brings you to a rather sharp hill, on which is a small, rough-looking chapel, never finished, where people come on a kind of pilgrimage, or to enjoy the beautiful view from it. Looking back, the city of San Paulo is seen to much advantage, and to the left, some thirty-five miles distant, appear the spurs of the mountains, past which the railway runs to Santos. In the opposite direction, and apparently much nearer than they are, you see the chain of hills through which the railway proceeds to Jundiahy, the celebrated Jaraguay (or gold mountain) to the left of them, standing out very boldly in the light of the setting sun. Altogether it is considered one of the prettiest short rides about the place, there being a great variety of them. The site of the chapel also enjoys the reputation of being in the exact line of the tropic of Capricorn, so that San Paulo is just outside it. We reined up a short time to enjoy the prospect and then cantered back for dinner.

A perusal of accounts from England by the last mail, and of those from the River Plate, form a very agreeable diversion to the otherwise monotonous life one has to lead here, although my visit has been an exception to the rule in this respect from the occurrences detailed in previous pages. It is impossible to read the official and private communications from the River without feeling deeply grieved at the tragic scenes that have lately been acted there. The correspondent of the Jornal do Commercio at Monte Video gives a very graphic account of the assassination of poor General Flores and the events arising out of it; and I incline to believe that, however deplorable, they nipped in the bud a very formidable conspiracy, which, had it been successful, would have deluged Uruguay with blood for a long time, and might otherwise have complicated the position of things, as there can be little doubt the first act of the Blanco party would have been to do away with the Triple Alliance, so far as Monte Video is concerned, and to institute a renewal of their insulting conduct towards Brazil. The changed aspect of the war, with a prospect of its speedy termination, will strengthen the hands of the Colorados, and, it is to be hoped, maintain peace and order in the little Republic. The writer already mentioned goes into very minute details of the passage of Humaita by the Brazilian ironclads; and there is quite a tinge of romance attached to their performances, which certainly reflect the highest credit on the gallantry of the commanders and crews; nor less so the victory obtained by the Marquis de Caxias, the combined effects of which must lead to the occupation of Asuncion and to the ultimate surrender or destruction of Lopez himself. That his resistance has been wonderfully stubborn no one can deny; still less the pertinacity which has distinguished the conduct of the allies under difficulties pronounced by some first-rate military authorities to be insurmountable.

I have not yet referred to the theatrical performances now going on here, with a company from one of the Rio theatres, which draws crowded houses in a building almost as large as Covent Garden. It is in a very improvised state, but sufficiently got up to answer the purpose; and in a climate like this external appearances are not much thought of provided there is enough ventilation, which is certainly the case in the San Paulo Theatre. A stranger cannot help feeling surprised on entering to see so large a place, having three tiers of boxes, filled chiefly by well-dressed ladies, and a gallery for what we term the “gods,” the gentlemen being in the pit, which holds fully 500 people and was quite crowded. Each one has what we call a stall, but here cane seats, with backs, divided by arms, so that you are very comfortably seated. The large attendance is explained by the circumstance of the city being dependent on casual performances, and of course everybody is anxious to take advantage of the opportunity. There is no regular company attached to the theatre, but the attendance, appearance, and dress of the ladies of San Paulo on these occasions will compare favourably with what is presented in any city of South America. As to the performance, it is usually a compilation from some French rubbishy novel; but the acting is tolerably good, and the audience attentive, sitting patiently for the five or six hours commonly occupied by the piece—a very great objection.

To-day—March 16—is the first of term at the College, where a strong muster of students took place at an early hour of the morning, and I believe that some of the ceremonials that occur on such occasions at Oxford and Cambridge also prevail here. The presence of nearly a thousand students gives a tone of animation to the old city, and is a set-off to the constant creaking of waggon wheels and the tinkling of bells of mules, which indicate its commercial character. Brazil is chiefly indebted to this city for a swarm of lawyers, many of whom have been, and continue to be, distinguished men, but it would be far better for the country if many of them were brought up to agricultural or commercial pursuits.

In the seaport towns the Portuguese continue to act as the chief traders, but in the interior the latter are mostly Brazilians. There is now the army, the navy, and the engineering pursuits open to the youth of Brazil, and I have no doubt they will by degrees take up positions more beneficial to their country than that of mere disputants, or lawyers, which characters are sadly too numerous.

Took an early ride to the north of San Paulo on the 17th, from whence there was a fine view of an extensive valley, where the mist was rising and floating away to the distant hills on the other side. We met troops of mules coming in with their drivers in their picturesque coloured ponchos, and also a group of women approaching the city. Skirting a wood to the left, through some pretty looking scenery, we came upon the new Santos road, made a few years back at great expense; and a most admirable road it is, but, it appears, not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a most admirable road it is, but it appears, not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a poor, uncultivated country. If the large amount expended on this road had been laid out at the terminus of the line at Jundiahy, towards the coffee producing districts, it might have been of much greater importance to the Province. Odd enough, it was made in opposition to the railway, although it must have been evident that the latter would take a large portion of the traffic, and that that by mules from San Paulo to Santos would be greatly reduced. The projectors, who were chiefly large coffee growers of the Province, might have supposed a good road to Santos would keep a check on the railway as to charges of transit, and be used in case of any partial stoppage of the railway; but unfortunately the heavy rains which shut up the latter for a time also injured the common road, rendering it impassable in places.

Before leaving the City of San Paulo, where I have spent several pleasant weeks, I went over what is called the House of Correction, but is in fact a criminal reformatory for the Province and admirably managed. The building is in a fine open space near the railway station, enclosed on a large square plot of ground, surrounded by high walls, inside which are gardens beautifully laid out, and kept in order by the inmates. The main portion of the building converges into a central point by means of arched roofs, lighted from the top, the cells abutting on the corridors which lead thereto. Here there is also a circular raised stone altar, on which mass is performed, and heard in all the cells through an open iron grating with which each is provided. The workshops are apart, leading off the garden, and consist of various trades suited to the acquirements of the criminals; there being also a school, where they are taught to read and write. They come to these workshops from the main building in groups, each individual having a mark or number to distinguish him by, and they are accompanied by a guard. The workshops have doors with open gratings, but secured by a strong lock and key, a sentinel doing duty during the time the men are occupied at labour, with a time master seated in a kind of elevated pulpit to see that the work allotted to every individual be properly done. In approaching or leaving the workshops the men all walk with folded arms, and the whole being on the silent system of punishment, no one is allowed to speak, except, I conclude, when some question has to be asked through the warder or other officer of the establishment, the discipline of which is admirably maintained. The inmates are about 120 in number, most of them convicted of serious crimes; they have here a dejected look, but I believe, on the whole, the system is found to be a very efficacious one, and does really lead to reformation of character. No female criminals are admitted, but I understand a ward is to be built for them. We were conducted over the establishment by the Governor, a retired colonel in the army, accompanied by Senhor Leite Moraes, a distinguished member of the Provincial Assembly. Much attention was shown us, and some refreshment was provided for us in the Governor's room. Near to the reformatory, abutting on the railway station, are the public gardens of San Paulo, on which a good deal of money has been spent. They are well laid-out, but not kept in order, one of the chronic defects of these kind of places in South America generally.