Leaving JogyÅkartÅ by steamtram or by carriage, and driving through the dessa of Muntilan—properly speaking a Chinese settlement—,turning two or three miles farther on near the stopping-place of Kalangan, 8 miles south of Magelang, into a by-path leading westward to the BÅrÅbudur, we, within an hour, shall arrive at the real javanese village of Mendut, which is situated on the left bank of the river Élo. On this spot, as it were under the shadow of the Buddha temple, eleven centuries old at least, a Roman Catholic mission built a little church and parsonage, and opened a school for javanese children. Living Christianity near the ruins of dead Buddhism! Heavy teak wooden scaffoldings surrounded these ruins on all sides, and on the north-western frontside solid wooden stairs lead upward till under the attap The first striking thing we see is that, in contravention to almost all other buddhistic buildings, the frontage of these ruins have not been placed opposite to the East, the sun-rise, but strange enough, opposite to the Northwest. When I first visited this temple in 1875 I saw that the porch which had been built before this frontage, had partly disappeared. Only its side-walls, the greater part at least, and fortunately, the two interesting sculptures had remained. This was also the case with the 14 large stone steps leading from without to the same porch, and flanked by heavy holds in the form of the garu?a-nÂga ornament we are going to know by-and-by. The colossal pyramidic roof, and part of the front wall above and north of the entrance to the inner-room were greatly lost. The two sculptures before the entrance show us, to the left, a princess in a garden of fruit-trees, with a suckling at her breast, and many playing children all round about her. And opposite to them, to the right, we see an Indian,—not buddhistic—prince with much more children in such another garden. All the children wear a crescent of the moon on the hind part of their heads, but both the children and their parents miss everything that might have spoken of a buddhistic character. The prince himself wears a three stringed cord of a caste (upavÎta), and is therefore characterised as a not buddhistic one. Buddhism doesn’t know any caste. Nevertheless, there are Dutch scholars who suppose this prince to be Buddha’s father, this woman Buddha’s mother. Even professor The buddhistic king of Siam, Chula Longkorn, gave me in 1896 another and far better explanation which solved all difficulties, and to which I’ll come back again after having first given a superficial description of the gigantic images we see in this temple. Let us therefore enter through the opened iron railing now replacing the wooden inner door, which for more than some 70 years ago, was used perhaps, as fire-wood. The space before the unadorned south-easterly back-wall is occupied by a heavy altar-shaped throne not yet long ago newly built in an exceedingly simple style. And on this throne sits a colossal Buddha image, by no means however, a nude one, so as professor Veth wrongly wrote in his standard work: “Java,” but this is dressed in the cowl of the southern Buddhists uncovering his right shoulder and arm; his two legs dangling and resting on a small cushion with his two hands before his breast in such a posture (mudrÂ) as the MahÂyÂnists, the followers of the “Big Carriage” of the northern church, generally (not always) give to the first of their five DhyÂni-Buddhas. In Ceylon and in Farther India however, there where HÎnayÂnism of the southern church still exists, which doesn’t know any DhyÂni-Buddha, this posture simply means “blessing.” To the right of this Buddha nearly 4 yards high, we see a buddhistic prince seated on a throne abundantly decorated with nÂgas, lions, and elephants, and ornamented with lotus-cushions and feet cushions. The monk’s hood, the bottom of which goes under the princely garb over his left shoulder and breast, and the small Buddha image in his crown characterise him as a Buddhist, and that in contradistinction to the other prince we see opposite him, to the left of the Buddha. And though this prince also has his seat on an equally richly ornamented throne, yet we don’t see any image in his crown, and then he doesn’t wear a monk’s hood, but only the three-stringed upavÎta which characterises him as not buddhistic. On this ground professor Kern thought this Indian prince as inexplicable as the other one we saw in the porch before the entrance. The two kings wear the prabha, or disk of light, on the back part On account of the posture of his hands before his breast there are some Dutch scholars who suppose this Buddha to be the first DhyÂni-Buddha Vairotyana, and the two other princes they think to be Bodhisattvas or future Buddhas, whilst the one on the north-easterly wall is said to be the fourth DhyÂni-Bodhisatthva, PadmapÂni because of his being provided with a small image of the fourth DhyÂni-Buddha, AmitÂbha, in his crown. Which Bodhisatthva we then must see in that other image nobody could tell us, because it misses all attributes. This however, is also the case with the buddhistic king’s image, and though it may be provided with a Buddha image in its crown, occasionally given to some Bodhisatthvas, yet it doesn’t characterise every wearer as such. Moreover, I more than once demonstrated that all the crowns are provided with no other image but the one of the Buddha himself in his posture of meditation (or rest after death), and therefore we can’t accept these images to be Bodhisatthvas, or more especially PadmapÂni, the Bodhisattva of the fourth DhyÂni-Buddha who, after all, should have been characterised by this Bodhisatthva’s usual attribute, the padma or lotus placed near his face. But these two images also miss this flower and the stem of the lotus which the Bodhisatthvas generally keep in their left hands. Sometimes however, we see them in their right hand, and the flower with the symbol above one or two leaves. So the meaning of the mentioned scholars doesn’t explain these 3 images whereas Siam’s king, on his visiting this temple in 1896, satisfactorily interpreted the north-westerly image, wearing, like he does himself, a Buddha image in his crown, to be perhaps the king of the buddhistic empire, under whose reign the BÅrÅbudur was built. Further he supposed the other image to be the latter’s not-buddhistic father and predecessor whilst both father and son (the latter afterwards became a buddhist), might have been honoured by their descendants who brought together the two images in this sanctuary under the blessing of the only Buddha, the redeemer of this world. So this Buddha image has nothing to do with any DhyÂni-Buddha, and by no means with the first of them. Tyan?i Mendut. This explanation of the king-Buddhist became so comprehensible and logical to me that I could not but accept and defend it against others, and so I came to the hypothesis that the ashes of the two kings (but certainly the son’s ashes) must have been buried in this tyan?i. Their urns may be found back again in a deep pit under the throne of the Buddha, or under the seats of the other images, just as we had found such urns of ashes in other tyan?is, in square pits, under the pedestals of the images, and generally adorned with some figures of precious metal and provided with some coloured precious stones, the emblems of the seven treasures, the sapta ratna which were given to the dead. These pits occupied the whole depth of the foundation of these temples, under the floor of the inner-rooms which may have been intentionally built so high above the surface of the earth. This, perhaps, is also the reason of the heavy substructure of tyan?i Mendut. Had Van de Kamer remained charged with the work of restoration to these ruins the Resident of Ked?u would then have granted us to examine this affair more closely before the throne was rebuilt again, and the Buddha image replaced upon it. But this didn’t happen. That Siam’s king declared the two images before the entrance to be the representations of the buddhistic king’s parents with their children seemed more than reasonable to me, especially, because of all difficulties being solved then. Didn’t MayÂ, like any other mother of Buddha, die seven days after his birth? And then, all writings known to me, don’t mention anything about SiddhÂrta’s brothers or sisters. And all these children can’t possibly be angels or celestials, because in the smaller panels, above the groups in the porch, we always see them hewn floating in the air. However reasonable this idea of the hÎnayÎstic king may have seemed to me, yet I could not maintain this when I was told by Mr. A. Foucher, the great knower of the ancient Indian Buddhism, that in Old GandhÂra he often saw the Buddha, just as is the case here, sculptured in the mudr of preaching, standing between the two Bodhisatthvas, AvalokitÉsvara and Manjusri. This, among others, He had taken away one of her 500 children, and remonstrated with her on the sorrow she gave the mothers of the children killed by her, in consequence of which she totally changed her character, became truly converted and afterwards honoured as a patroness of children. I am not going to expatiate about the artistic value of this produce of the ancient plastic arts in Old India. One should see them oneself and then judge whether the Indian sculptor knew how to chisel out living thoughts which are not less striking and beautiful than those of the Greeks in the age of Pericles, and much better hewn than those of the Egyptians in the time of the hieroglyphics, of Memphis and Thebae, of Carnak and Philae But there are more things to be seen in the sanctuarium of tyan?i Mendut. The space within the four heavy walls is not a square or rectangular one, but rather a trapezoid with parallel front- and back walls. Its side-walls somewhat join each other from front to back. I don’t know any other example of deviation from the rectangular form, and therefore try to find its meaning in the sculptor’s effort to increase the impression the large images make upon the visitor, by slightly supporting its perspective. Tyan?i Mendut. Two niches have been spared in each of these side walls, but not symmetrically like we see them hewn before the impressive image-group, and not behind it or on the back wall. Half way between the entrance and the two corners however, two similar niches adorn the front wall. All these six niches have been framed with the garu?a-nÂga ornament, that is, with two composed serpent’s bodies whose tails disappear into the mule of a monstrous garu?a head we see above the vault of these niches, and whose outward turned heads are provided with a proboscis. In each niche there lies a small lotus cushion but without any image. Even in 1834 during the digging up of the ruin buried under an overgrown mound, no images were found in- or outside these niches. What then was the meaning of them? They were explained to us by the French Indian architect Henry Parmentier who spoke of analogical cases in Farther India [Bulletins de l’École franÇaise d’ExtrÊme Orient] After mature consideration I came to the conclusion that the niches of tyan?i Mendut must also have had this destination, and this may be the reason why all of them were affixed in front and opposite (not behind) the three images, so that I never doubted the four walls to have had any other opening than the door which opened through the front wall into the almost equally dark porch. This conviction of mine has been confirmed by some corresponding cases, among others, by the fact that the four still undamaged walls of the comparatively large inner-rooms of tyan?i SÉvu in the plain of Parambanan, have no other opening but the door which gives entrance to the (eastern) porch. However, we don’t see any niche in the inner-room of tyan?i Kalasan, perhaps because there was room enough in these two sanctuaries to place one or more lights before or on the altars which carried the Buddha or TÂr image. In the main temples of the Parambanan group, with the exception of tyan?i Shiva, there was no place for these lights. The altar-shaped This temple’s walls hewn with exquisitely modelled festoons had also no niches, and could not have had them unless one would have partly sacrificed its panels. But in all other, less spacious temples whose walls were unadorned, are still to be found simple and square formed stones, 2 of which we see in each side-wall, and 1 on every side of the entrance through the front wall, consequently just as the 6 niches in tyan?i Mendut and equally fit to the same purpose. Had not the front walls of these sanctuaries partly fallen down I am sure we then could see that they also had no windows above the entrances, and that neither the inner-rooms of tyan?is SÉvu and Kalasan, nor the sanctuary of tyan?i Mendut ever had them till before some years when the president of the “Oudheidkundige Commissie” (board of antiquarian science) ordered these openings to be pierced through the front wall scarcely rebuilt by Van de Kamer. And that, contrary to this architect’s official objections, and against my not-official but well argued warning. An irresponsible deforming, a violation of the original architecture, a desecration of a primevally pure style! And this becomes much clearer to us when we raise our eyes, and fully see how this polygonal hole spoils the harmony of the character of the pyramidical vault so beautifully thought, and which I mean to have once known as a closed whole. Those who contemplate this pseudo-vault unprejudicedly will no more regret than I do, that such a thing could have happened without having been redressed up to this date. It is true, it would cost much labour again, and money too, but this labour and money would undoubtedly be far better accounted for than that which was uselessly spent to commit such an unpardonable mistake. Dr. Brandes may have been deceived by the form of the hole the dropping stones had made outside in the front wall above the entrance, and which he knew from engravings only, for, when he first visited this temple Van de Kamer had this wall erected again just as it once was, and without any other opening but the door. On account of analogical Indian ruins pictured in Fournerau’s and Porcher’s works, I stated elsewhere how the falling asunder of such walls which had been run up with hewn stones without mortar, are It is true that the front wall of the inner-room of tyan?i SÉvu makes us think, from its inside at least, of such a relievo vault, but this had been entirely shut off to its outside, and consequently not likely to have ever done duty as a “light-case” Tyan?i Mendut has the outward appearance of a quadrangle with a somewhat rectangular wing in the centre of each of its four sides. Consequently an icosahedral resting on an equally polygonal foundation of larger extent. The north-western forebuilding, which reached much farther, and formerly had been separately roofed in, contained the porch to which a broad and fourteen-tread staircase will lead us even now. This staircase is flanked by heavy banisters formed of composed naga and garu?a heads we are going to know somewhere else. However, among the sculptures we see on the outer-wall, Mr. M. Foucher recognised not without some reserve the main image on the northeast side as the eight-armed mahÂyÂnistic deity Tyund or TsyundÂ, standing between the Bodhisattvas AvalokitÉsvara and Manjusri; on the wall to the south-east (the hind-part thus) he thought he saw AvalokitÉsvara himself, four-armed, and between two Taras; and on the south-western side he saw Tsyund once more, but now four-handed and standing between the very same two Bodhisattvas we see on the north-easterly outer-wall. On the side-panels of this wall he recognised the Bodhisattva Manjusri, on the south-east side VajrÂpani, the Bodhisattva of the second DhyÂni-Buddha; and on the outer-wall to the south-west he saw Manjusri again, the former with his sword and the latter with his book on a blue lotus. All the small series sculptured on the outsides of these heavy stairs refer to ancient legends. The king of Siam told us that in the whole of his buddhistic empire there was only one image which, though much more damaged, could be compared to the colossal Buddha image we see In 1896, and afterwards in 1901, H. M. rendered due homage to the Buddha image by a devout sembah (salaam) and by strewing semboja-flowers (Plumeria acutifolia Poir) in its lap; and so did the Queen. |