FRESHNESS OF FISH.—Fish is a food which spoils very quickly, and which is dangerous to eat if not fresh. For this reason the housekeeper should be able to judge of the freshness of fish. In fresh fish:

(a) The flesh is firm and elastic, especially along the backbone.

(6) The gills are bright.

(c) The eyes are bright and bulging.

The sinking of fish when placed in water has also been given as an indication of its fitness for use as food. Decayed fish floats on water.

Since fish spoils readily, it must be frozen if kept for any length of time. Frozen fish is not undesirable provided it is kept in a frozen state until used; it should be thawed out by placing it in cold water just before cooking. Fish that has been thawed out and kept for some time before cooking may contain at times poisonous substances called ptomaines. Ptomaines in food may produce distressing effects or may even prove fatal.

Fresh fish should be kept in a cool place until used, but should not be placed uncovered in the refrigerator. It may, however, be tightly covered,—put in a tin pail or glass jar,—and placed in the refrigerator. Before cooking, fish should be washed thoroughly with a wet cloth. On account of the odor, all utensils used in the cooking of fish should be washed in salted water.

BAKED FISH

Clean and wash a large fish. The head or tail may or may not be removed before baking. If the head is retained, the eyes should be removed before serving; this is done more easily after cooking. If the tail is retained, it should be wrapped in oiled paper to prevent it from burning.

[Illustration: FIGURE 60.—FISH KETTLE, SHOWING RACK]

Sprinkle salt on the inside of the fish and also on the outside, and then fill with stuffing. Skewer the cut edges of the fish together or close the incision as follows:

Hold the edges of the skin together and thrust toothpicks across the opening, through both cut edges of the fish. Then fasten the opening by "lacing" string around the toothpicks. Cut gashes on each side across the fish and put strips of salt

pork into them or insert strips of pork with a larding needle. Oil a baking sheet or the rack of a fish kettle (see Figure 60) and place the fish on it, forming the fish into an "S" by means of skewers. Place the sheet in a baking-pan and add pieces of salt pork. Bake 15 minutes for each pound, or until the flesh can be separated easily from the bones by means of a skewer or a fork. If the baking-pan is uncovered, baste every 10 minutes. When done, carefully remove the fish from the pan and place on a platter, garnish with parsley and lemon, and serve with Tomato Sauce or Sauce for Fish (see below).

In the absence of a baking sheet, two well oiled strips of muslin may be placed across the baking-pan, underneath the fish. When baked, the fish may be removed easily from the pan by means of the strips of muslin.

STUFFING FOR FISH

2 cupfuls soft bread crumbs 1/2 teaspoonful salt 1/8 teaspoonful pepper Cayenne 1 teaspoonful scraped onion 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley 1 teaspoonful capers or chopped pickles 2 tablespoonfuls butter or substitute

Mix the ingredients in the order given (see Crumbs for Scalloped
Dishes)

SAUCE FOR FISH

3 tablespoons butter or substitute 1/4 cupful flour 1/2 teaspoonful salt Cayenne l 3/4 cupfuls hot water 1/4 cupful vinegar or 1 large lemon,—juice 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley

Prepare the first five ingredients as in White Sauce (see White Sauce for Vegetables. Then add vinegar or lemon juice and chopped parsley. Serve hot over fish.

Hard-cooked eggs make a pleasing addition to this sauce. Chop the whole eggs or slice the whites and mash the yolks with a fork; then add to the sauce.

QUESTIONS

Why should fish not be left uncovered in the refrigerator?

Why should fish be cleaned by wiping with a cloth, rather than by placing in a pan of water (see Experiment 59)?

What is the purpose of placing fish on a baking sheet or placing strips of muslin underneath for baking (see Experiment 60)?

How is fish tested for sufficient cooking?

How can the odor be removed from utensils in which fish has been cooked?