RELOADING AMMUNITION FOR PISTOLS AND REVOLVERS.

There is a general impression among the shooting fraternity that reloaded ammunition is superior to the factory made. This is doubtless true if prepared by an expert, but it is safe to say that a majority of persons would secure much better results from the factory-made cartridges than they would with those prepared by themselves. It is necessary to have perfect fire-arms to secure fine and regular shooting; but unless the proper ammunition is used, the superiority of the pistol or revolver will not be apparent.

As marksmen become skilful, they notice errors in shooting; if they possess enthusiasm enough to become experts, they are constantly studying to improve their shooting, and a large share of their attention is devoted to the ammunition. It is not uncommon to find cartridges with the bullet improperly seated in the cartridge-case or shell; the bullet is sometimes jambed over one side of the shell, and instead of being wholly seated in the shell has the full length of the bullet on one side exposed. The common mode of lubricating by dipping in the lubricant, after the bullet is seated in the shell, hides many defects in factory-made cartridges, and the indifferent shooter fires the cartridges without thinking or investigating the cause of wild shots, until he notices what is technically known as “key-holes,” or the bullets going through the target sideways instead of point on.

The Winchester Reloading Tool for Pistol and Revolver Cartridges.

Other faults in factory-made ammunition are caused by age, which deteriorates the cartridge, causing the powder to cake, and the shell, bullet, and lubricant to oxidize; the latter cause also affecting the efficacy of the primer. As some cartridge companies have used one formula for making lubricant for cold weather, another for warm weather, and as lots of ammunition get scattered in all sections, and sometimes carried in stock for several years, it can be said that one would not be likely to get so good results from factory cartridges as from those freshly prepared of home make.

There are other reasons why many of the shooting fraternity prefer to reload their ammunition; it is a piece of economy not to be despised, and being located in an inaccessible place, away from towns or cities where cartridges can be purchased, compels some individuals to make their own ammunition.

The marksman, in attempting to reload ammunition, will be beset with many obstacles, and is not likely to produce so good cartridges at the first trials as he can purchase in stores where they have been received fresh from the factories; but to those who desire to prepare their own ammunition, the following mode, practised by different pistol and revolver experts, will doubtless prove a guide to many.

If the finest work is to be attempted, the use of new shells is recommended. If old shells are to be reloaded, the exploded primer should first be removed, the shells then washed and thoroughly rinsed in water, warm if convenient, and, if desirable to remove the stains from the shells, a little acid may be dropped into the water. After washing thoroughly, dry perfectly, but do not heat enough to draw the temper. Special care should be taken to have the water dried out of the pockets or primer-holes. The next process, if the shell was previously crimped, is to expand it at the mouth.

The Ideal Reloading Tool, for Pistol and Revolver Cartridges.

The reloading tools supplied by manufacturers are advertised to expand as well as decap the shell, but do so very ineffectually, and a tool is recommended specially for this purpose. Unless the shell is sufficiently expanded, the bullet cannot be properly seated in the shell, and this is one of the first difficulties the beginner is likely to encounter. After expanding the shell, the next operation is to reprime the shells. It will be found necessary to use the copper primer for most of the American shells. Considerable care should be used in seating the primer, as most of the shells are not solid head, and a heavy pressure on the capper will seat the primer too deep, and often force it through the pocket and spoil the shell. If the full charge of powder is to be used in the cartridge, the shells should then receive it; but if a reduced charge is to be used in a large calibre, with the object of making cartridges for in-door shooting, many experts use a wad of pasteboard of the exact size of the inside diameter of the shell, with a hole about one-half the diameter of the wad in its centre. The wad is seated in the base of the shell, and the light charge of powder poured in. The object of this wad is to have the powder ignite quicker than it is supposed it would if spread over the base of a large shell. By the hole in the centre of the wad, much of the small charge of fine powder is directly in front of the primer, and the theory of experts is that the full force of the charge of powder is more quickly secured than if spread over the base of a large shell.

The question of powder is a very important one, and has provoked an endless amount of discussion and experimenting among manufacturers and shooters. The most desirable point is cleanliness, as much fouling means inaccurate shooting; and as that is a very marked defect in nearly all black powders at the present time, many believe that the effectiveness and accuracy of the revolver will be increased when improvements in powder are made.

In the smaller calibres and in short-barrelled pistols a finer grain of powder should be used; the fine-grain powder is also better for light charges.

A request to the leading American powder manufacturers to state the brands of powder they recommended for pistol and revolver shooting brought the following responses:—

(Extract from Circular.)

For pistol-shooting—A fine grain is preferred, of “Electric,” “American Sporting,” or “Kentucky Rifle.”

In addition to the American brands of black powder mentioned is the American wood powder, which is favored by some pistol-shots on account of its non-fouling qualities. The English powder, Curtis & Harvey No. 3, is also excellent. It is quite clean and uniform, but its cost is very high, the expense of a pound being about $1.50. The American Powder Works’ products are used by many experts, the Hazard’s Kentucky Rifle is also a favorite brand, but there are many opinions as to the best powder; if a shooter get good results with a certain brand, it is wisdom to use it exclusively, if possible, as the different brands vary considerably in strength and effect elevations. Mr. F. J. Rabbeth, an acknowledged expert in fire-arms, has devoted considerable time to experimenting with powders, shooting many hundred shots at a rest, with revolvers fitted with fine sights, to learn, if possible, the merits of different brands of powder for pistol-shooting. His experiments with wood powder show excellent results; but a majority of the pistol-shots at the present time do not seem to favor this kind of powder, but there exists a feeling that before long a powder will be produced which will cause less fouling than that in use at the present time, and such a compound will be welcomed by pistol-shots.

Score of 90 out of a possible 100, at 30 yards, with gallery ammunition, in .44-calibre Smith & Wesson Russian-model revolver, made by Mr. F. E. Bennett, at Walnut Hill, Mass., Oct. 12, 1887. Reduced one-half.

After placing the powder in the shell the bullet is inserted, generally without a wad, and seated in the shell. In cartridges with full charges the bullet is generally seated with a tool made expressly for the purpose. With reduced charges, a round ball is often used, which is seated down in the shell touching the powder. It is then necessary to lubricate the cartridge, and as there are no cannelures to hold the grease, it is necessary to place the lubrication around the upper edges of the bullet. There are several ways of doing this, the most approved manner being to place a bit of cold lubricant in each shell after the bullet has been seated, then with a plug with a concave end, of about the same diameter as the shell, force the lubricant down on top of the bullet, and by a few turns of the plug the lubricant will be placed evenly around the edge of the ball. Evenly distributing the lubricant is essential to secure even shooting.

If desirable to make the bullets, we cannot add anything to the directions given by Mr. F. J. Rabbeth to the readers of The Rifle in a recent issue, from which we extract the following:—

“Ever since the combination of cartridge manufacturers went into effect, by which the prices of bullets were advanced some 20 per cent., I have been tempted to tell riflemen what I know about making bullets, thereby enabling such as have not mastered the art, but who have the time and inclination,—as also the disposition to save a penny,—to quickly acquire it, and at the same time become independent of all combinations of bullet-makers in the future.

“It is evident from the quality of moulds furnished by the various manufacturers that there has been very little effort by any of them to furnish their customers with a practical implement. Indeed, I believe their policy has usually been to discourage people from making their own ammunition. I have searched the market through and have never yet found a thoroughly practical mould on sale. In fact, as compared with a first-class implement, a large majority of these things are absolutely worthless; but it would take too much space to point out all their various defects, and it will be much easier to describe how a good mould should be made. To begin, the mould should be of brass or composition, as lead flows to that metal better than iron or steel, and is worth more than the difference in cost. The two halves should be pivoted together, like a pair of blacksmith’s tongs (not like a nut-cracker, as many of them are), with a large, well-fitted hinge-screw, with a body part one-eighth larger than thread part, so that it may be screwed solid against this enlarged body part without binding the mould too tightly together. Unless these hinge-screws are so fitted with shoulder they are continually working loose, and causing delay and trouble. After the mould is pivoted together and properly jointed, it should have one well-fitted dowel-pin placed as far from the pivot-screw as possible in the centre of the mould-head. The mould should be ample in size at the pivot or hinge, and at the head, so that it will not be likely to get sprung out of adjustment by rough usage; also that its mass may retain heat, and so preserve a more uniform temperature while in use. The cut-off should be of cast-steel, one-eighth to three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and pivoted on a substantial, well-fitted screw, with enlarged body part, as described for hinge-screw, and for the same purpose, i.e., that it may stay put when secured to place.

“The sprew-hole for any ordinary-sized bullet should not exceed one-tenth inch in diameter. The cut-off should project about one and a half inches beyond mould-head, and should swing far enough to one side to entirely uncover the base of the bullet. The shanks of the mould should be adapted to receive wood handles, and with handles attached, for comfort in use, should measure about nine inches to hinge-screw.

“For melting the lead a small plumber’s kettle should be had that will hold, when full, about twenty pounds. For dipping from this, a small Monroe ladle, with round nozzle that will enter the counter-sink or sprew-hole of the cut-off. Heat the mould till it is near the melting temperature of lead, and when the lead in kettle is sufficiently hot, dip from kettle with ladle. Apply mould to nozzle while in a horizontal position, then while still holding mould in contact, quickly elevate ladle above mould, holding them in that position for a few seconds. This gives the full pressure of the lead in the ladle on the mould while it is cooling, and by this method as perfect a bullet can be cast as can be made by swaging. They can be cast at the average rate of 225 per hour. A gas stove is much the best means of melting the lead, as a more even temperature can be maintained; but it is not difficult to cast good bullets, using almost any kind of a coal fire.

“The lead and moulds should be kept at a temperature that will require a few seconds, say five to ten, for the lead in the sprew-hole to solidify after the ladle has been separated from the mould. This is the true test; and while this temperature is maintained, the bullets will be cast perfect. The mould should be held over the kettle while casting, so that any lead spilled may fall into main body.

“The best method for lubricating grooved bullets is to mix beeswax and cylinder or other heavy oil,—one part oil to four beeswax. Procure a pair of ordinary ten-cent tweezers, file away the centre so they will grasp the bullet near the point and not slip off too readily. Dip the bullets to cover all the grooves, and set them on a board to cool. When cool, remove surplus lubricant by forcing bullets through a tube the size of bullet. This is cheaply made by cutting off the head of a shell and soldering a tapering tin extension to the shell, say six inches long. Shove this tube on to the bullets as they stand on the board, and empty the tube as often as it fills with bullets. If the grooves are not too wide—they should not be more than ¹/25inch wide, say twelve to the inch—this method will give perfect lubrication. Another method about equally good is to set a quantity of bullets in a shallow pan, points up, then to pour melted lubricant among them till there is sufficient in the pan to cover all the grooves; set aside till lubricant is sufficiently cooled, then use the tube as described above to remove surplus. Bullets so cast and lubricated will do very fine shooting either with clean or dirty barrel.”

Cartridges should not be exposed to the sun, and should be kept in a dry, cool place.