CHAPTER XVII. CLEANING AND REPAIRING CUCKOO CLOCKS.

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The cuckoos are in a class by themselves for several reasons, all of which have to do with their construction and should therefore be understood by the watchmaker. They are bought as timepieces by but two classes of people: those who were used to them in their former homes in Europe and buy them for sentimental reasons; and those who admire fine wood carvings as works of art and desire to possess a finely carved cuckoo clock for the reasons which govern in the purchase of paintings and statuary, bronzes, and other art objects. For this reason cuckoos have never been a success when attempts have been made to cheapen their production by the use of imitations of wood carving in composition or metal. The use of cuckoos in plain cases, with springs instead of weights, has also been attempted with the idea of thereby securing an inclosed movement, as in ordinary clocks; but while it offers advantages in cleanliness and protection of the movement, such clocks have never become popular, as they have lost their character as works of art by being enclosed in plain cases, or have become rather erratic in rate by the substitution of springs for weights.

The use of exposed weights and pendulum necessitates openings in the bottom of the case through which the dust enters freely and this makes necessary unusual side shake, end shake and freedom of depthing of the wheels and pinions and also the use of lantern pinions and an amount of driving weight in excess of that necessary for protected movements, as there must be enough weight to pull the cuckoo movement through obstructions which would stop the ordinary movement.

Repairers therefore should not attempt to close worn holes as snugly as in the ordinary movements, as when this is done the clock generally stops about three weeks after it has left the shop and a “comeback” is the result. Lightening the driving weights will have the same result, as the movement must have sufficient power to pull it through when dirty. As the plates and wheels are generally of cast metal, cutting of pivots from running dry is frequent in old clocks, and where it is necessary to close the holes care must be taken not to overdo it.

Another point where repairers fail is in not polishing the pivots. Many watchmakers seem to think that any kind of a pivot will do for a clock, although they take great care of them in their watchwork. Rough and dry pivots will cut the holes in a clock plate deep enough to wedge the pivots in the holes like a stuck reamer and stop a clock just after it has been repaired, when if they had been properly polished the job would not have come back.

The high prices of wood carving in America and the necessity for its genuineness, as explained above, has resulted in making it necessary to spend as little as possible for the movements; hence we ordinarily find a total lack of finish on the movements, and this, with the great freedom everywhere evident in its construction and the apparent excess of angular motion of the levers, combine to give it an appearance of roughness which surprises those who see them but rarely.

It has been frequently suggested by watchmakers that if the cases only were imported and the movements were made by the American factories better results should be obtained, in appearance at least. They forget that the bellows, pipes and birds, with their wires, are parts of the movements and the cost of having these portions made in this country is prohibitive, so that the whole movement is imported. Arrangements are now being made by at least one firm to have the frames and wheels made of sheet metal by automatic machinery, instead of being cast and finished in the usual way, and when this is done the appearance of the movements will be greatly improved, so that American watchmakers will regard them with a more kindly eye. So far as is known to the writer all cuckoo movements are imported, although one firm is doing a large and constantly growing trade in such clocks with cases made in America.

There are a number of importing firms who sell to jobbers, large retailers and clock companies only, and as the large American clock manufacturers all list and carry cuckoos the clocks find their way to the consumer through many and devious channels. Probably more are sold in other ways than through the retailers for the reason that the average retailer does not understand the cuckoos and is reluctant to stock them, thereby deliberately avoiding a large amount of business from which he might make a handsome profit.

Under the general term Cuckoos are listed several kinds of movements, all having bellows, pipes and moving figures, such as the cuckoo, cuckoo and quail, trumpeter, etc., with or without the regular hammers and gongs of the ordinary movements.

Figs. 101 and 102 show front and back views of a time train in the center with quail strike train on the left and cuckoo strike train at the right. The positions of arbors, levers, depthings of trains, etc., are exact, but the movement plates have been left off for greater clearness, so that the arbors appear to be without support. The positions of the pillars are shown by the shaded circles above and below the trains in Fig. 101. The parts have the same letters in both Figs. 101 and 102, although as the movement is turned around to show the rear in 102, the quail train appears on the right side.

Fig. 101. Front View of Quail and Cuckoo Strike Movement.

NAMES OF PARTS.

A— Quail count wheel. O— Quail Lifting pin wheel.
B— Quail striking cam. P— Cuckoo lifting lever.
C— Minute wheel. Q— Cuckoo warning lever.
D— Quail lifting lever. R— Cuckoo lifting pin.
E— Quail count hook. S— Cuckoo locking arm.
F— Quail locking arm. T— Cuckoo count hook.
G— Quail bird stick; U— Cuckoo striking cam.
also called bird holder. V— Cuckoo lifting pin wheel.
H— Quail bellows arm. W— Cuckoo count wheel.
I— Quail bellows lifting lever. X— Cuckoo bellows lifting lever.
J— Quail gong hammer. Y— Cuckoo hammer.
K— Quail warning lever. Z— Cuckoo bird stick;
L— Quail lifting pin. also called bird holder.
M— Quail bird stick lever. S¹— Cuckoo bird stick lever.
N— Quail hammer lever.

In examining a movement the student discovers a peculiarity of cuckoo frames, which is that the pivot holes for several of the arbors of the striking levers have slots filed into them, reaching to the edges of the frames and narrower than the full diameter of the pivot holes. This is because such arbors have levers riveted into them which must function in front, between and at the rear of the plates and in setting up the movement the slots are necessary to allow the end levers to pass through the holes. Such arbors as have slots on the front plates are inserted and placed in their proper positions before setting the train wheels with which they function. The others are first inserted in the back plate and turned to position while putting on that plate.

Both quail and cuckoo trains are set up very simply and surely by observing the following points: In the quail train, when the quail bellows lever, H, is just released from a pin in the pin wheel, O, the locking lever, F, must just fall into the slot of the locking cam, B; the warning pin should then be near the fly pinion and the count hook, K, drop freely into the count wheel, A.

Fig. 102. Rear View of Quail and Cuckoo Movement.

On the cuckoo side we find two levers, X; the upper one of these operates the low note of the cuckoo call and the lower one the high note. When this upper lever is released from a pin in the pin wheel, the cuckoo locking lever, S, must drop into its locking cam, U, and the count hook, T, drop into its count wheel, while the warning pin must be near the fly pinion. After the run has stopped and the trains are fully locked the warning pins will be as shown in Fig. 102; but at the moment of locking they should be as described above.

The operation is as follows: Turning to Fig. 101, we find the minute wheel, C, has four pins projecting from its rear surface. This revolves once per hour and consequently the pins raise the lifting lever, D, every fifteen minutes. Here is a point that frequently is productive of trouble. The reader will readily see that if the hands of a cuckoo are turned backward the pins in the minute wheel will bend this wire, D, and derange the striking, as the warning lever is also attached to the same arbor. Never push the hands backward on a cuckoo clock; always push them forward. If the striking and hands do not register the same time, take off the weights of the striking trains; then push the hands forward until they register the hour which the trains struck last. As there is no power on the trains they will not be operated, the only action being the rising and falling of the lever, D, as the pins pass. When the hands point to the hour last struck by the trains, put on the striking weights again and push the hands forward, allowing time for each striking, until the clock has been set to the correct time.

Upon the lifting lever, D, being raised sufficiently the warning lever, E, on the same arbor is lifted into the path of the warning pin and at the same time unlocks the train by pressing against the lifting pin, L, in the locking lever, F. The locking lever, F, count hook, K, and the bird holder lever, M, are all on the same arbor and therefore work in unison. When D drops, E releases the warning pin and the train starts. The pin wheel has pins on both sides, the rear pins operate the gong hammer, N, J; the front pins operate the quail bellows, I, H. The rising, and falling of the unlocking lever, F, operates the bird holder, G, through M and the wire in the bellows top tilts the tail of the bird and flutters the wings. When the fourth quarter has been struck, the pins shown in the quail count wheel, A, operate the hour lifting lever, P, and the action of that train becomes similar to that of the quarter train just described, with the difference that there are two bellows levers, X, for the high and low notes of the cuckoo, whereas there is but one for the quail.

There are several adjustments necessary to watch on these clocks. The wires to operate the bellows from the levers X and H may be so long that the bellows when stretched to its full capacity may not allow the tails of X and H to clear the pins of the pin wheels and thus stop the trains. The pins should clear safely with the bellows fully opened. The levers M and S¹, which operate the bird holders, G and Z, may be turned in their arbors so as to be farther from or closer to the bird holder; this regulates the opening and closing of the doors and the appearance of the birds; if there is too much movement the birds may be sent so far out that they will not return, but will stay out and stop the trains. Moving S¹ and M towards the bird holders, Z and G, will lessen the amount of this motion and the contrary movement will increase it.

Another important source of trouble—because generally unsuspected—is the fly. The fly on a cuckoo train must be tight; a loose fly will cause too rapid striking and allow the train to overrun, making wrong striking, or in a very bad case it will not stop until run down. When this happens turn your attention to the fly and make sure that it is tight before doing any bending of the levers, and also see to the position of the warning pin.

Sometimes the front of the case (which is also the dial) will warp and cause pressure on the ends of the lever arbors and thus interfere with their proper working. Be sure that the arbors are free at both ends.

When replacing worn pins in the striking trains, care should be taken to get them the right length, as on account of the large amount of end shake in these movements they may slip past the levers without operation, if too short, or foul the other parts of the train if too long. For the same reasons bending the levers should only be done after exhausting the other sources of error and then be undertaken very slowly and cautiously.

The notes of a cuckoo are A and F, just below middle C; these should be sounded clearly and with considerable volume. If they are short and husky in tone it may be due to holes in the bellows, too short stroke of bellows, removal of the bellows weights, E, Fig. 103, dirt in the orifices of the pipes, or cracks in the pipes. Holes in the bellows, if small and not in the folds of the kid, may be mended by being glued up with paper or kid, or a piece of court plaster which is thin enough to not interfere with the operation of the bellows. If much worn a new bellows should be substituted. Cracks in the pipes may be mended with paper.

The orifice of the pipe, if dirty, may be cleaned with a piece of mainspring filed very thin and smooth and carefully inserted, as any widening or roughening of this slit will interfere with the tone. Sometimes a clock comes in which has been spoiled in this regard, then it becomes necessary to remove the outer portion or lip, A, Fig. 103, of the slot (which is glued in position) and make a new inner lip, B, or file the old one smooth again. The proper shape is shown in B, Fig. 103, while C and D show improper shapes which interfere with the tone.

Fig. 103. Cuckoo bellows and pipe. A, outer lip;
B, inner lip; C, D, incorrect forms of lip.

Much time and money has been spent in trying to avoid the inherent defects of this portion of the clock; sometimes the lips will swell or warp and close the orifice; sometimes they will shrink and make it too wide; in either case a loss of purity of tone is the result. Brass tubes, if thin enough to be cheap, give a brassy tone to the notes; compositions of lead, tin and antimony (organ pipe metal) are readily cast, but give a softer, duller tone of less volume than the wood. Celluloid lips to a wooden tube were at first thought to be a great success, but were found to warp as they got older. Bone lips are costly; so there is nothing at present that seems likely to displace well seasoned wood, where discriminating lovers of music and art demand purity and correctness of tone, reasonably accurate time, artistic sculptural effects and durability, all in one article—a high class cuckoo clock.

When sending a clock home after repairing, each of the chains should be tied together with strings just outside the bottom of the case so that they will not slip off the sprockets and the customer should be instructed to hang the clock in its accustomed position before cutting the strings and attaching the weights.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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