I am "up against" a queer business proposition—Doubts and difficulties—Assent—Major Schomburgk, F.R.G.S., the leader of the expedition—His African experiences—Filming cinema pictures in the tropics—The start from England—Dover to Madeira—Life on board ship—Madeira—Teneriffe—Las Palmas—Motoring under difficulties—Arrival in Togo—"Yellow Jack"—Kindness of H.H. the Duke of Mecklenburg, the Governor of Togoland—A jolly dinner party—Rickshaw riding in Lome—Off to Atakpame
A tiresome railway journey—My hut in the forest—A trying toilet—Native inquisitiveness—Haute cuisine in the heart of Africa—Mosquitoes—My first night in the bush—A very primitive shower-bath—Rehearsing our first cinema drama—Savages as "supers"—Irritating delays—A false alarm—Filming the principal scene in the White Goddess—I am knocked up—And laid up—Malarial fever—"If you cough you'll die"—Convalescence—I try cookery—A disconcerting experience—Eating 9863 chickens—A little about lizards—Also about ants and beetles
Troubles of cinema playing in Central Africa—Enforced leisure—Native girls and a gramophone—Women and work—Native children—A negro philosopher—Native servants—Learning to cycle—Improvising a studio—Wild monkeys—Native dances—A perilous climb
On the march into "the back of beyond"—Packing our "chop boxes"—Quinine—"I didn't want to do it"—The starting of the caravan—Good-bye to Kamina—Kindly forethought of the Duke of Mecklenburg—Our first day's march—Sleeping out in the bush—Rest-houses—Our operator goes astray—Dish-washing extraordinary—Our cook disappears—To return with a wife—I try my hand at bush cooking—"Feed the brute"—A native belle
Our friend the doctor—A new way with natives—Laughable results—And to Njamassila—Travelling by hammock—A rash resolve—Njamassila to Agbandi—Sleeping on the march—A native giant—Agbandi to Djabotaure—Depressing effects of the West African climate—An adventure at Djabotaure—Native festivities on the eve of Ramadam—Djabotaure to Audasi—Incompetent hammock boys—"Sea-sickness" on land—A moonlight night in the bush—Nearing Sokode—Our horses waiting for us in charge of a European—A bush toilet—Arrival in Sokode—Kindly hospitality
In camp at Paratau—Uro Djabo, paramount chief of the Tschaudjo—A courtly savage—The Tschaudjo a conquering tribe who came riding on horses from the north—Djabo's palace—His wives—A much-married monarch—His prime minister and attendants—He comes to afternoon tea—A democratic king—Tschaudjo horsemen—An accident—I nearly lose my life—A nervous breakdown—We leave Paratau in a hurry—Kindness of the German Government officials at Sokode—They lend us one hundred carriers—On the road to Aledjo-Kadara, "the Switzerland of Togo"
On the march from Paratau to Aledjo-Kadara—A terrible stage—Doubt and depression—An uphill journey—I feel my health improving—An accident—Native sympathy—Our cook annexes our dining-table—A lovely camp—A thousand yards up and surrounded by mountains—The Switzerland of Togo—Beautiful rest-houses—The harmattan—Grass fires—Filming a drama—Another accident—Nebel and I nearly fall over a precipice—Nebel homesick—He leaves for Europe—Filming the final scene of Odd Man Out—We visit Bafilo, near Aledjo—Great reception by natives for the first white woman—The Uro (king) of Bafilo meets us in state—Torch play to celebrate the finish of Ramadam—More filming—An astonished native—Industrial films—The cotton industry—Trade guilds—Primitive looms and spindles—Making beads from palm nuts—Baboons like dogs and rabbits with feet like elephants
The native market at Bafilo—Native sweetmeats—Cowries as currency—A native barber shaving a baby's head—Togo boys playing at the West African equivalent of pitch and toss—A woman's dance that out-tangos the tango—Native baskets at a farthing apiece—Hyenas—I am nearly bitten by a puff-adder—A leopard—Early stables—Filming again—A glut of supers—A "woman palaver"—One of our people abducts a native girl—His punishment—I read the girl a lecture—But make little impression—"He gave me these"—A drunken native—I intercede for him with his chief—Wild tribes from the Kabre Mountains—Nude but modest—The shy girl and her bag of salt—A native falls in love with me—Beautiful native work—I buy a cloak of native manufacture—Good-bye to Bafilo
On trek once more—A disquieting discovery—I am very angry—A long day's journey—I narrowly escape sunstroke—"Wholesome anger a good tonic"—I taste native beer for the first time—And find it both refreshing and sustaining—Antelope spoor—Exchange carriers—First meeting with the Konkombwa—The finest race of savages in Togo—Native dandies—Trouble with our horse boys—They are punished—In the heart of the wilds—European and native rest-houses—Paying our carriers with salt—Schomburgk gets "bushed"—Resents my anxiety—We quarrel—Elephant spoor—I am given my first lesson
