Oil derricks Fifty miles inland, Houston is one of the nation’s principal world ports. Being rich in oil and natural gas, it has come to dominate two mammoth industries, petrochemicals and the sending of natural gas to the nation. For half a century beginning in the early 1900s, Houston belonged to oil. For the next half-century, it may belong to space. Oil and its big quick profits—little is said of its big quick losses—and the extravagant legends about oil riches did more than anything except the Houston Ship Channel to give Houston its One Million. The city got a foretaste of its oil destiny thirty-five years before the Spindletop gusher roared in when Richard W. Dowling, the Confederate hero of the Battle of Sabine Pass, and John M. Fennerty formed a company in 1866 for “Mechanical operations in mining and boring for oil....” Their project was ridiculed, and its outcome is unknown. The historian Andrew Forest Muir has shown that two critical periods in the growth of Houston were the half-decade from 1857 to 1861, when it became the The Houston Post Office, completed in 1890, at the southeast corner of Franklin Avenue and Fannin Street. Houston’s quick growth between 1940 and 1960, when its population rose from twenty-first to seventh place among American cities, owed to the linking of The Houston Post Office, completed in 1962. During the 1950s Houston was a leading example of the new urban America caused by the economic impetus of World War II and the increased post-war migration of rural people to cities. No period in the city’s history approaches the importance of World War II and the years after. Before the war Houston was an ambitious small city. A few years afterward, its former hopes lying in the shadows of sudden and preposterous growth, the city was altered in character, aspirations, and appearance. Houston’s formidable roles in the oil and gas industries, in the manufacturing of oil-field equipment, and in the nationwide distribution of gas are widely understood but seldom comprehended. The metropolitan area alone, which has seven oil refineries, produces nearly eighty thousand barrels of oil daily. Two major oil companies, the Humble Oil and Refining Company and the Continental Oil Company, and hundreds of smaller ones have their headquarters in Houston, most of whose downtown skyscrapers were built by or for oil, gas, and banking. The Tennessee Gas Transmission Company was organized in 1944; twelve years later its assets passed a billion dollars, a speed of growth that may never have been equaled in American business. Paul Kayser, president of the El Paso Natural Gas Company, was asked at a press conference in El Paso why his company, Freighters docked in the Port of Houston. In 1960 most of the nation’s sulphur deposits, around 6 per cent of its petroleum reserves, and around 10 per cent of its refining capacity were in a nineteen-county area surrounding Houston. An estimated three-quarters of the nation’s petrochemicals production comes from the Texas Gulf Coast area. Shipbuilding, an integrated steel mill, and paper mills are other important aspects of the city’s economy. It is a paradox that the Houston metropolitan area, which is hundreds of miles from the state’s chief cattle-raising areas, has more cattle than any other county in Texas. Irrigation has made the county a rice producer of importance; within a hundred-mile radius of Houston is grown 28 per cent of the nation’s rice. And Houston, which is the headquarters for Anderson, Clayton & Company, the largest cotton concern in the world, is one of the world’s leading spot cotton markets. Houston’s gusto in the 1950s was epitomized by “M” Day, as July 3, 1954, was called. When statisticians divined ahead of time that the city’s metropolitan population would reach one million on that date, a festival was planned to welcome the millionth citizen. Houston Bucks were printed in a denomination of $1,000,000. A huge thermometer, its peak registering 1,000,000, was put at the Rice Hotel corner and the reading raised a notch a day. Thousands of auto-bumper signs said “I’m One in a Million—Houston.” Many concerns changed their postage-meter messages to read “Houston’s a Million Strong.” At a town meeting held in Hermann Park on July 3, Mr. Million was identified as B. C. McCasland, Jr., who moved to the city the day before from Clinton, Mississippi. Aged thirty-six, a geologist, and the father of five children, he typified the city at that moment. Receiving gifts said to be worth $10,000, he was flown to the eleven cities then larger than Houston—to talk about Houston. He moved away some time afterward, but “M” Day may not have been premature. A year and a half later, when the Bureau of the Census estimated the populations of Houston, Milwaukee, St. Louis, and Washington, the population of Houston was put at 1,077,000. One of the earliest known sketches of the Port of Houston, probably in 1866, showing approximately the same area as the previous photograph. The Satilla, inaugurating ocean commerce at the Port of Houston in August, 1915, attracted crowds of sight-seers. The deep-water Houston Ship Channel was completed the year before. The downtown building boom of 1927, which was unequaled until the first years of the 1960s: In various stages of construction are the Niels Esperson Building, the Lamar Hotel (lower left corner), the Gulf Building, an addition to what was then the Second National Bank Building, and, on the right, the West Building. The building with three white domes, on the left, is the old Carnegie Library; next to it is the old First Presbyterian Church. In 1947 the F. W. Woolworth Company bought this half-block for $3,050,000, or at the rate of $2,000 a front inch. The first Houstonian to fly an airplane, one he built himself, was L. L. Walker, in 1910. The plane, above, was a Bleriot-type with a forty-horsepower engine; it flew at a peak altitude of three hundred feet and had a top speed of nearly thirty miles an hour. The photograph—Walker, at the controls, is hidden by the wing—was made at the start of an attempt to fly to Galveston late in 1910. He reached La Marque, well over half way, and prudently decided to return. Walker died in 1960, aged seventy-one. The history of Houston’s material success is to some extent the history of its port and the bayou it was to make into a ship channel. Buffalo Bayou was once the mouth of the Brazos River, though the Brazos long ago cut its present course to the southwest. A traveler who wrote of the bayou nearly ten years before Houston existed found it an exceptional stream. “... this most enchanting little stream [has] the appearance of an artificial canal in the design and course of which Nature has lent her masterly hand,” J. C. Clopper wrote in 1828. Other Moreover, Andrew Forest Muir has written, “Buffalo Bayou had another peculiar advantage.... Unlike most significant Texas streams, it flows almost due east and west. With the Brazos [River] extending in a general northerly direction, this meant that the head of navigation on the Bayou was but twenty miles or so from the heart of the fertile agricultural region of the Brazos.” Indeed, Buffalo Bayou was the principal reason the founders of Houston chose the area for their city. They wanted the most interior point of year-round navigation in Texas. Unable to buy the town of Harrisburg, they went upstream for their site. A vessel of size first succeeded in reaching a boat-landing at Houston in 1837. It was a former warship, the Constitution, a forty-four-gun frigate in 1797 but then a merchant vessel, whose captain chanced the voyage to win $1000 offered by the new city’s promoters. Within ten years vessels were making daily runs between Houston and Galveston. The improvement of the bayou channel was begun in 1839 with funds raised by public subscription and lotteries. The Port of Houston was established by city ordinance in 1841. Widening and deepening of the channel was begun in 1869 and continued into the 1960s, by which time the minimum depth of the channel was thirty-six feet and the minimum width was three hundred feet. The port is linked with the Intracoastal Canal. “Probably the greatest, most farseeing project ever consummated in Texas was the deepwater channel to Houston,” the Dallas News said in an editorial in 1955. One price of the project’s material benefits was the loss of one of the area’s chief natural beauties, a beauty remarked by many travelers in the nineteenth century. “... this most enchanting little stream,” Clopper wrote in 1828. Edward King foresaw in 1873 what was to happen to the lovely bayou. “The bayou which leads from Houston to Galveston ... is overhung by lofty and graceful magnolias; and in the season of their blossoming, one may sail for miles along the channel with the heavy, passionate fragrance of the queen flower drifting about him,” he wrote nearly a century ago. And then: “This bayou Houston hopes one day to widen and dredge all the way to Galveston; but its prettiness and romance will then be gone.” So it goes. Airships at aviation meet in Houston, January, 1911. The meet was held at what is now the corner of Main Street and Holcombe Boulevard. From family papers of Lenore Bland Pfeiffer |