| A constant stream of pilgrims, largely blue-clad coolies on foot, passed up and down the sacred stairway | Frontispiece |
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| FACING PAGE |
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| Map of the author’s route | 12 |
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| Our first view of Seoul, in which the former Temple of Heaven is now a smoking-room in a Japanese hotel garden | 16 |
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| The interior of a Korean house | 16 |
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| Close-up of a Korean “jicky-coon,” or street porter | 17 |
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| At the first suggestion of rain the Korean pulls out a little oiled-paper umbrella that fits over his precious horsehair hat | 17 |
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| Some of the figures, in the gaudiest of colors, surrounding the Golden Buddha in a Korean temple | 32 |
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| The famous “White Buddha,” carved, and painted in white, on a great boulder in the outskirts of Seoul | 32 |
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| One day, descending the hills toward Seoul, we heard a great jangling hubbub, and found two sorceresses in full swing in a native house, where people come to have their children “cured” | 33 |
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| The yang-ban, or loafing upper class of Korea, go in for archery, which is about fitted to their temperament, speed, and initiative | 33 |
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| The Korean method of ironing, the rhythmic rat-a-tat of which may be heard day and night almost anywhere in the peninsula | 40 |
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| Winding thread before one of the many little machine-knit stocking factories in Ping Yang | 40 |
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| The graves of Korea cover hundreds of her hillsides with their green mounds, usually unmarked, but carefully tended by the superstitious descendants | 41 |
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| A chicken peddler in Seoul | 48 |
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| A full load | 48 |
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| The plowman homeward wends his weary way—in Korean fashion, always carrying the plow and driving his unburdened ox or bull before him. One of the most common sights of Korea | 49 |
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| The biblical “watch-tower in a cucumber patch” is in evidence all over Korea in the summer, when crops begin to ripen. Whole families often sleep in them during this season, when they spring up all over the country, and often afford the only cool breeze | 49 |
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| A village blacksmith of Korea. Note the bellows-pumper in his high hat at the rear | 64 |
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| The interior of a native Korean school of the old type,—dark, dirty, swarming with flies, and loud with a constant chorus | 64 |
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| In Kongo-san, the “Diamond Mountains” of eastern Korea | 65 |
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| The monastery kitchen of Yu-jom-sa, typical of Korean cooking | 65 |
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| One of the monks of Yu-jom-sa | 68 |
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| This great cliff-carved Buddha, fifty feet high and thirty broad, was done by Chinese artists centuries ago. Note my carrier, a full-sized man, squatting at the lower left-hand corner | 68 |
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| The carved Buddhas of Sam-pul-gam, at the entrance to the gorge of the Inner Kongo, were chiseled by a famous Korean monk five hundred years ago | 69 |
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| The camera can at best give only a suggestion of the sheer white rock walls of Shin Man-mul-cho, perhaps the most marvelous bit of scenery in the Far East | 69 |
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| Two ladies in the station waiting-room of Antung, just across the Yalu from Korea, proudly comparing the relative inadequacy of their crippled feet | 76 |
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| The Japanese have made Dairen, southern terminus of Manchuria and once the Russian Dalny, one of the most modern cities of the Far East | 76 |
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| A ruined gallery in the famous North Fort of the Russians at Port Arthur. Hundreds of such war memorials are preserved by the Japanese on the sites of their first victory over the white race | 77 |
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| The empty Manchu throne of Mukden | 77 |
rians | 288 |
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| Messrs. Kung and Meng, two of the many descendants of Confucius in Shantung flanking one of those of Mencius | 288 |
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| Some of the worst cases still out of bed in the American leper-home of Tenghsien, Shantung, were still full of laughter | 289 |
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| Off on an “itinerating” trip with an American missionary in Shantung, by a conveyance long in vogue there. Behind, one of the towers by which messages were sent, by smoke or fire, to all corners of the old Celestial Empire | 289 |
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| On the way home I changed places with one of our three wheelbarrow coolies, and found that the contrivance did not run so hard as I might otherwise have believed | 304 |
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| The men who use the roads of China make no protest at their being dug up every spring and turned into fields | 304 |
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| Sons are a great asset to the wheelbarrowing coolies of Shantung | 305 |
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| A private carriage, Shantung style | 320 |
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| Shackled prisoners of Lao-an making hair-nets for the American market | 320 |
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| School-girls in the American mission school at Weihsien, Shantung | 321 |
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| The governor’s mansion at Tsingtao, among hills carefully reforested by the Germans, followed by the Japanese, has now been returned to the Chinese after a quarter of a century of foreign rule | 321 |
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| Chinese farming methods include a stone roller, drawn by man, boy, or beast, to break up the clods of dry earth | 336 |
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| Kaifeng, capital of Honan Province, has among its population some two hundred Chinese Jews, descendants of immigrants of centuries ago | 336 |
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| A cave-built blacksmith and carpenter-shop in Kwanyintang where the Lunghai railway ends at present in favor of more laborious means of transportation | 337 |
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| An illustrated lecture in China takes place outdoors in a village street, two men pushing brightly colored pictures along a two-row panel while they chant some ancient story | 337 |
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| In the Protestant Mission compound of Honanfu the missionaries had tied up this thief to stew in the sun for a few days, rather than turn him over to the authorities, who would have lopped off his head | 344 |
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| Over a city gate in western Honan two crated heads of bandits were festering in the sun and feeding swarms of flies | 344 |
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| A village in the loess country, which breaks up into fantastic formations as the stoneless soil is worn away by the rains and blown away by the winds | 345 |
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| I take my turn at leading our procession of mule litters and let my companions swallow its dust for a while | 352 |
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| The road down into Shensi. Once through the great arch-gate that marks the provincial boundary, the road sinks down into the loess again, and beggars line the way into Tungkwan | 352 |
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| Hwa-shan, one of the five sacred mountains of China | 353 |
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| An example of Chinese military transportation | 353 |
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| Coal is plentiful and cheap in Shensi, and comes to market in Sian-fu in wheelbarrows, there to await purchasers | 360 |
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| The holy of holies of the principal Sian-fu mosque has a simplicity in striking contrast to the demon-crowded interiors of purely Chinese temples | 360 |
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| Our carts crossing a branch of the Yellow River fifty li west of the Shensi capital | 361 |
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| Women and girls do much of the grinding of grain with the familiar stone roller of China, in spite of their bound feet | 361 |
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| An old tablet in the compound of the chief mosque at Sian-fu, purely Chinese in form, except that the base has lost its likeness to a turtle and the writing is in Arabic | 368 |
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| This famous old portrait of Confucius, cut on black stone, in Sian-fu is said to be the most authentic one in existence | 368 |
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| A large town of cave-dwellers in the loess country, and the terraced fields which support it | The author gratefully acknowledges his indebtedness to Mr. Edwin S. Mills of Peking, China, for the use of the pictures of Urga.
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