| FACING PAGE |
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| In the Monte Grande, the “Great Wilderness” of Bolivia, the commander of the garrison insisted on sending a boy soldier, with an ancient and rusted Winchester, to “protect” me from the savages | Frontispiece |
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| One of the wood-burning steamers of the lower Magdalena, on the route to BogotÁ | 4 |
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| Along the Magdalena we halted several times each day for fuel | 4 |
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| Hays catches his first glimpse of the jungles of Colombia | 13 |
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| The stewards of the “Alicia” in full uniform | 13 |
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| A village on the banks of the Magdalena | 17 |
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| Jirardot; end of the steamer line and beginning of the railroad to BogotÁ | 17 |
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| A typical Indian hut on the outskirts of BogotÁ | 20 |
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| Indian girls and women are the chief dray-horses of the Colombian capital | 20 |
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| BogotÁ and its sabana from the summit of Guadalupe | 28 |
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| The central plaza of BogotÁ from the window of our room | 28 |
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| A chola, or half-Indian girl, of BogotÁ backed by an outcast of the “gente decente” class | 32 |
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| A street of BogotÁ. The line of flaggings in the center is for the use of Indians and four-footed burden bearers | 32 |
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| Celebrating Colombia’s Independence Day (July 20th) | 37 |
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| Meanwhile in another square the populace marvels at the feats of “maroma nacional” of an amateur circus | 37 |
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| A section of the ancient highway, built by the Spaniards more than three centuries ago | 44 |
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| Fellow-travelers at the edge of the sabana of BogotÁ | 44 |
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| Approaching the Central Cordillera of the Andes | 49 |
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| Hays, seated before the “Hotel Mi Casa” and behind one of his $5 cigars | 53 |
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| A bit of the road by which we mounted to the QuindÍo pass over the central range, with forests of the slender palms peculiar to the region | 53 |
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| The first days on the road; showing how I would have traveled by choice | 60 |
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| On the western side of the Central Cordillera the trail drops quickly down into the tropics again | 60 |
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| Like those of the days of Shakespeare, the theater of Cartago consists of a stage—of split bamboo, with a tile roof—inside the patio of the “hotel” | 64 |
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| Cartago watching our departure | 64 |
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| Along the Cauca Valley | 69 |
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| In places the Cauca Valley swarmed with locusts | 69 |
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| Worse than the locusts | 72 |
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| The market-place of TuluÁ, with the cross that protects it against all sorts of calamities | 72 |
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| A view of the “sacred city” of Buga, with the new church erected in honor of the miraculous Virgin | 76 |
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| A horseman of the Cauca in full regalia | 76 |
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| The scene of “Maria,” most famous of South American novels, and once the residence of its author | 80 |
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| The home of “Maria”; and a typical hacendado family of the Cauca | 80 |
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| The market-pla
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| View of Cuzco, the ancient Inca capital, from the summit of Sacsahuaman | 408 |
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| Building a house in Peru | 412 |
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| The patio of the “Hotel Progreso” of Abancay | 412 |
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| A religious procession in Abancay | 417 |
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| A chola of Abancay, wearing the dicclla which all put on at the age of puberty | 432 |
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| A chiefly-Indian woman of Abancay | 432 |
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| The first view of Cuzco | 437 |
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| An Indian of Cuzco, speaking only Quichua | 444 |
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| Indian women of the market-place, wearing the “pancake” hat of Cuzco | 444 |
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| An Indian required to pay for the day’s mass proudly clings to his staff of office | 449 |
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| Youth from a village near Cuzco, each with a coca cud in his cheek | 449 |
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| Our party setting out for Machu Picchu across the high plains about Cuzco | 453 |
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| Ollantaytambo, the end of the first day’s journey, in the valley of the Urubamba | 453 |
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| Spring plowing in the Urubamba valley | 460 |
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| As we rode eastward into the sunrise down the gorge of the Urubamba, glacier-clad Piri above threw off its night wraps of clouds | 464 |
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| The semicircular tower and some of the finest stone-cutting and fitting of Machu Picchu | 464 |
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| We came out on the edge of things and Machu Picchu lay before us | 469 |
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| The resounding gorge of the Urubamba, with terraces of the ancient inhabitants on the inaccessible left bank | 472 |
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| One of the many stairways of Machu Picchu | 472 |
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| The temple of the three windows, an unusual feature of Inca architecture | 476 |
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| “RumiÑaui” seated on the intihuatana, or sun-dial, at the top of the town | 476 |
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| The babies of Bolivia sit in a whole nest of finery on nurse’s back | 485 |
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| Arequipa is built of stones light as wood, cut from a neighboring quarry | 485 |
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| Indians plowing on the shores of Titicaca | 492 |
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| Sunrise at Copacabana, the sacred city of Bolivia on the shores of Titicaca | 492 |
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| One of the two huge figures facing the grass-grown plaza of modern Tiahuanaco at the entrance to the church | 501 |
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| The ancient god of Tiahuanaco before which the Indian woman, herding her pigs, bowed down in worship | 501 |
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| Arequipa, second city of Peru, in its desert oasis, backed by misty volcano | 504 |
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| “Suddenly the bleak pampa falls away at one’s feet” | 504 |
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| Llamas of La Paz patiently awaiting the return of their driver | 508 |
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| Down the valley below La Paz the pink and yellow soil stands in fantastic, rain-gashed cliffs | 508 |
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| Cholas of La Paz, in their native garb | 513 |
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| “Sandy” leading his train of carts loaded with construction material for the railroad to Cochabamba | 528 |
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| The “gringo bench” of Cochabamba,—left to right, “Old Man Simpson”; Tommy Cox; Sampson, the Cockney; Owen; and Scribner | |
