G. stands for German; F. for French.

• Abnehmen or Abheben, G., to cut.
• Abwerfen, G., to discard.
• À cheval, across the line; betting on both sides at once.
• Adversary, (G., Feind). In Mort or Bridge, those who play against the Dummy and his partner.
• Affranchir, F., to establish a suit.
• Age, the eldest hand; sometimes erroneously spelt Edge.
• Albany Lead, a lead in Whist, to show four trumps and three of each plain suit.
• American Leads, leads that show the number of cards in the suit led, at Whist.
• Ames Ace, double aces thrown with dice.
• Anchor Shot, getting the object balls against the cushion and astride the line at baulk-line billiards.
• Ante, a bet made before playing, but after seeing the hand.
• Antepenultimate, the lowest but two of a suit.
• AprÈs, the announcement of a refait at Rouge et Noir.
• Arroser, F., to be compelled to play a trump which will not win the trick.
• Ask for Trumps, playing an unnecessarily high card, when no attempt is made to win the trick.
• Auf die DÖrfer gehen, to run for home; to make all your aces and kings, instead of leading trumps.
• A. Y. B. Z., the letters used to distinguish the positions of the four players at Whist; A-B being partners against Y-Z., and Z. having the deal.
• Backgammon. If a player throws off all his men before his adversary has thrown off any, and while one or more of the adversary’s men are still on the side of the board next the winning player, it is a backgammon, or triple game.
• Bath Coup, holding up Ace Jack on a King led by an adversary.
• Battre, F., to shuffle.
• Bedienen, G., to follow suit.
• Bekommen, G., to win.
• Bekennen, G., to follow suit.
• Belle, F., the last game of the rubber.
• Bidding to the Board, means that the points bid for a certain privilege are not to be credited to any player, but are simply the announcement of the value of an undertaking.
• Biseautes (cartes) F., wedges or strippers.
• BlÄtter, G., playing cards.
• Blocking a Suit, keeping a high card of it, so that the player with a number of smaller cards cannot win tricks with them.
• Blue Peter, the ask for trumps.
• Blind, a bet made before seeing the cards.
• Blinden, G., a widow, an extra hand dealt at any game.
• Board’s the Play, a card once played cannot be taken back.
• Bobtail, a four-card flush or straight, which is accompanied by a worthless card.
• Bone-yard, the stock at dominoes.
• Book, the first six tricks taken by either side at Whist which do not count toward game.
• Both Ends against the Middle, a system of trimming cards for dealing a brace game of Faro.
• Brace Game, a conspiracy between the dealer and the case-keeper at Faro, so that cards improperly taken from the dealing box shall be properly marked by the case-keeper.
• Break. In Billiards, a succession of counting shots made by one player, usually called a “run” in America. In Ten Pins, a break is a failure to make either a strike or a spare.
• Break Even, a system of playing Faro, betting each card to win or lose an even number of times.
• Brelan, F., three cards of the same denomination.
• Brelan CarrÉ, F., four cards of the same denomination.
• Bringing in a Suit, making tricks in a plain suit after the adverse trumps are exhausted.
• BrÛler, F., to burn a card.
• BÛche, F., cards that count for nothing, such as the tens and court cards in Baccara; equivalent to the G. Ladons, or Fehlkarten.
• Bucking the Tiger, playing against the bank at Faro.
• Bumblepuppy, playing Whist in ignorance or defiance of conventionality.
• Bumper, a rubber of eight points at English Whist.
• Burnt Cards, cards which are turned face upward on the bottom of the pack, usually in banking games.
• Calling for Trumps, the ask for trumps.
• Cannon, (Am. carrom,) a count made at billiards by causing the cue ball to touch two object balls.
• Capot, F., winning all the tricks.
• Cards, the number of tricks over six at Whist, such as “two by cards.” The majority of cards at Cassino.
• Carrer, (se) to straddle the blind. Contre-carrer, to over-straddle.
• Carrom, see cannon.
• Cartes, F., playing cards.
• Carte Blanche, a hand which does not contain K, Q or J.
• Carte Roi, F., the best card remaining of a suit.
• Cases, when three cards of one denomination have been withdrawn from the box at Faro, the fourth is a case.
• Case-keeper, a board for recording the cards as they are withdrawn from the box at Faro. The word is sometimes applied to the person who keeps cases.
• Cat-hop, two cards of the same denomination left in for the last turn at Faro.
• Cave, F., the amount a player places in front of him at the beginning of play; table stakes.
• Checks, the counters at Poker are checks; at Faro they are chips.
• Chelem, F., a slam.
• Chip Along, to bet a single counter and wait for developments.
• Chouette, À la, taking all the bets.
• Close Cards, those which are not likely to form sequences with others, especially at Cribbage.
• Club Stakes, the usual amount bet on any game in the club.
• Cogging Dice, turning one over with the finger after they have been fairly thrown.
• Cold Deck, a pack of cards which has been pre-arranged, and is surreptitiously exchanged for the one in play.
• Colours, a system of playing Faro according to the colour of the first winner or loser in each deal.
• Command, the best card of a suit, usually applied to suits which the adversary is trying to establish.
• Couper, F., to cut the cards; also to ruff a suit.
• Couleur, F., a suit of cards, such as hearts or clubs.
• Coup, a master stroke or brilliant play; a single roll of the wheel at Roulette, or a deal at Rouge et Noir.
• Compass Whist, arranging players according to the points of the compass at Duplicate Whist, and always retaining them in their original positions.
• Conventional Play, any method of conveying information, such as the trump signal, which is not based on the principles of the game.
• Coppered Bets, bets that have a copper or checker placed upon them at Faro, to show that they play the card to lose.
• Court Cards, the K, Q and J; the ace is not a court card.
• Covering, playing a higher card second hand than the one led, but not necessarily the best of the suit.
• CrÉve, F., one who is temporarily out of the game, such as one who has overdrawn his hand at Vingt-et-un; as distinguished from one who has lost all his money. The latter would be spoken of as dÉcavÉ.
• Crossing the Suit, changing the trump from the suit turned up to one of a different colour, especially in Euchre.
• Cross-ruff, two partners alternately trumping a different suit.
• Cul levÉ, (jouer À) playing one after another, by taking the place of the loser. A vulgar expression.
• Cutting, dividing the pack when presented by the dealer; or drawing lots for choice of seats and deal.
• Cutting In and Out, deciding by cutting which players shall give way to fresh candidates.
• Curse of Scotland, the nine of diamonds.
• Cut Shots, very fine winning hazards.
• Dealing Off, the same dealer dealing again.
• Deck-head, an Irish name for the turned trump at Spoil Five.
• Deadwood, the pins that fall on the alley, in bowling.
• DÉcavÉ, F., frozen out; the entire amount of the original stake being lost.
• DÉfausser, se, F., to discard.
• D’emblÉe, F., on the first deal; before the draw.
• Despatchers, dice which are not properly marked, having two faces alike, such as double fives.
• Devil’s bed posts, the four of clubs.
• Discarding, getting rid of a card in plain suits when unable to follow suit and unwilling to trump.
• Donne, (avoir la) to have the deal. Donne, the time occupied in playing the cards distributed during a deal, but “coup” is the term generally used.
• Double Pairs Royal, four cards of the same denomination.
• Doubleton, two cards only of a suit.
• Doubling Up, betting twice the amount of a lost wager.
• Doubtful Card, a card led by the player on your right, which your partner may be able to win.
• Draw Shot, any shot which makes the ball return toward the cue; in English, a “screw-back.”
• Duffer, one who is not well up in the principles of the game he is playing.
• Dummy, the exposed hand in Dummy Whist, Bridge, or Mort.
• Duplicate Whist, a form of Whist in which the same hands are played by both sides, and as nearly as possible under the same conditions.
• Dutch It, to cross the suit at Euchre.
• Ecarter, F., to discard.
• Echoing, showing the number of trumps held when partner leads or calls; in plain suits, showing the number held when a high card is led.
• Edge, a corruption of the word “age,” the eldest hand.
• Eldest Hand, the first player to the left of the dealer in all English games; to his right in France.
• Encaisser, F., to hand the stakes to the banker.
• Entamer, F., to lead.
• Established Suits, a suit is established when you or your partner can take every trick in it, no matter who leads it.
• Étaler, F., to expose a card.
• Exposed Cards, cards played in error, or dropped face upward on the table, or held so that the partner can see them.
• Face Cards, K, Q and J.
• Faire les Cartes, F., to shuffle; or to make the majority of cards or tricks in a game.
• Fall of the Cards, the order in which they are played.
• False Cards, cards played to deceive the adversary as to the true holding in the suit.
• Fattening, discarding counting cards on partner’s tricks.
• Feind, G., an adversary; Gegner is the more common word.
• Figure, F., K, Q or J.
• Fille, F., see Widow.
• Finesse, any attempt to take a trick with a card which is not the best of the suit.
• First, Second, or Third Hand, the positions of the players on any individual trick.
• Five Fingers, the five of trumps at Spoil Five.
• FlÈches, the points upon a backgammon board.
• Fluke, making a count that was not played for.
• Flush, cards of the same suit.
• Flux, F., only one suit in the player’s hand; a flush.
• Force, to compel a player to trump a trick in order to win it.
• Forced Leads, leads which are not desirable, but which are forced upon the player to avoid those which are still less advantageous.
• Fordern, G., to lead trumps.
• Fourchette, the two cards immediately above and below the one led, such as K J in the second hand on a Q led.
• Four Signal, a method of showing four trumps, without asking for them; usually made by playing three small cards, such as 4 6 2, in that order.
• Fourth-best, the fourth card of a suit, counting from the top. The modern substitute for the terms penultimate, and antepenultimate.
• Front Stall, one who makes acquaintances for gamblers to fleece.
• Frozen, balls touching at billiards.
• Frozen Out, a player who has lost his original stake, and cannot continue in the game.
• Fuzzing, milking the cards instead of shuffling them.
• Gallery, the spectators who are betting on the game.
• Gambling, risking more than one can well afford to lose on any game of chance.
• Gambler’s Point, the count for “game” at Seven-up.
• Gammon. When a player throws off all his men before his adversary throws off any, it is a gammon, or double game.
• Gathering Shots, getting the balls together again after driving them round the table. See Nursing.
• Geben, G., to deal the cards. Sometimes “Vertheilung der Karten” is used.
• Gegner, G., the adversary.
• Grand Coup, trumping a trick already won by partner; or playing a small trump on a trick which he has already trumped.
• Greek, (grec) a card sharp.
• Guarded Cards, cards which cannot be caught by higher cards unless they are led through.
• Hand, the cards dealt to one player; the distribution of the cards in any one deal. A “remarkable hand” might be the play of an entire deal at Whist, for instance.
• Heading a Trick, playing a better card than any already played to the trick, but not necessarily the best in the hand.
• Heeled Bets, bets at Faro which play one card to win and another to lose, but do not win or lose double the amount if both events come on the same turn.
• Hinterhand, G., the last player on the first trick, (Skat).
• His Heels, the Jack turned up for a starter at Cribbage.
• His Nobs, Jack of the same suit as the starter at Cribbage.
• Hoc, or Hockelty, the last card in the box at Faro.
• Honours, usually the highest cards in the suit, such as A K Q J, and sometimes the 10. In Calabrasella the 3 and 2 are honours, and in ImpÉrial the lowest card is an honour.
• Horse and Horse, each player having one game to his credit when they are playing best two out of three.
• Hustling, inveigling persons into skin games.
• Impair, the odd numbers at Roulette.
• Impasse, F., to finesse.
• Imperfect Fourchette, two cards, one immediately above the one led, and the other one remove below it; such as K 10 second hand on a Q led.
• Imperfect Pack, one in which there are duplicate cards, missing cards, or cards so marked that they can be identified by the backs.
• Indifferent Cards, cards of the same value, so far as trick taking is concerned, such as Q and J.
• Inside Straights, sequences which are broken in the middle.
• Intricate Shuffles, butting the two parts of the pack together at the ends, and forcing them into each other.
• Invite, F., leading a small card of the long suit.
• Irregular Leads, leads which are not made in accordance with the usual custom, as distinguished from forced leads.
• Jack Strippers, two bowers, trimmed to pull out of the pack.
• Jenny, a fine losing hazard, made off an object ball close to the cushion, between the side pocket and the baulk.
• Jetons, F., the counters which represent money at any game.
• Jeu, F., derived from jocus, a game. The word is variously applied to the game itself; to the player’s expectation of success; to his plan of campaign; or to the cards in his hand.
• Jeux de RÉgle, hands which should be played in a certain way on account of their mathematical expectations, (ÉcartÉ).
• Keeping Tab, keeping a record of the cards that win and lose as they are dealt at Faro.
• King Card, the best card remaining unplayed of the suit.
• King Row, the four squares on the checker board which are farthest from the player’s own side.
• Kitty, the percentage taken out of a pool to pay for refreshments, or for the expenses of the table.
• Knight Player, one who can give the odds of a Knight to weak players, at Chess.
• Last Trick, an expression used to distinguish the last trick when all the cards are played from the last when all the cards are not played, especially in BÉzique and Sixty-six.
• Last Turn, the three cards left in the box at the end of the deal at Faro, the order of which may be bet upon.
• Lead, to play the first card in any trick.
• LevÉe, F., a trick. (Tric, is the odd trick.)
• LiÉes, F., to play rubbers.
• Limit, the amount by which one player may increase his bet over that of another.
• Long Cards, the dregs of a suit which has been led several times, and exhausted in the hands of the other players.
• Long Suits, those containing four or more cards, at Whist.
• Lose Out, a card that loses four times in one deal, at Faro.
• Losing Cards, those that would lose tricks if they were led.
• Losing Hazard, pocketing the cue ball.
• Losing Trump, one which is not the best, when only one or two remain.
• Love-all, nothing scored on either side.
• Lurched, not half way toward game.
• Main, F., with avoir this expression is indefinite, and may refer to the deal or the lead. With Être, to be in the lead. Dans la main, applies to the possibilities of the hand. Placer la main, to place the lead.
• Make-up, to get the cards ready for the next deal.
• Make the Pass, to put the two parts of the pack back as they were before the cut.
• Maldonne, F., misdeal.
• Manche, F., one game of the rubber.
• Manque, the numbers from 1 to 18 at Roulette. See Passe.
• Marque, F., a score which is kept upon the table by means of counters.
• Martingale, any system which controls the amounts wagered on a series of events. (See chapter on Chance and Probability.)
• MassÉ, a shot made with the cue held nearly perpendicular.
• Master Card, the best card remaining of a suit which has been played.
• Matsch, G., to win all the tricks, a slam.
• Mechanic, a dealer who can make the cards come any way he pleases at Faro.
• Melden, G., to announce, claim, or show any counting combination of cards.
• MÉler, F., to shuffle.
• Memory Duplicate, playing over the same hands at the same table; the players who held the N and S cards getting the E and W for the overplay.
• Menage, F., gathering and arranging the cards for the succeeding deal when two packs are used.
• Milking, taking a card from the bottom and the top of the pack at the same time with the forefinger and thumb.
• Mischen, G., to shuffle.
• Misdeal, any failure to distribute the cards properly.
• Mise, F., the layout, or the original pool.
• MisÈre Ouverte. There is no such expression as this in French; the proper term is MisÈre sur table. See Boston.
• Mittelhand, G., the second player on the first trick, in Skat.
• Mixed Pair, a lady and gentleman playing as partners.
• Mort, F., the dummy hand at Whist or Bridge.
• Mouth Bets, those made without putting up the money. One who fails to pay mouth bets is a welcher.
• Muggins, to take a score which has been overlooked by an adversary, especially in Cribbage and Dominoes.
• Natural, anything which wins the stake immediately; 7 or 11 at Craps; 21 at Vingt-et-un; 8 or 9 at Baccara.
• Natural Points, those which must be made every deal, such as big and little cassino, high, low, etc.
• Navette, F., a cross ruff.
• Neben Farbe, G., plain suits.
• Next, the suit of the same colour as the turned trump at Euchre. Diamonds are “next” to hearts.
• Nick, a natural at Craps; 7 or 11 on the first throw.
• Nicknames for Cards: The ?9 is the curse of Scotland; the ?4 is the devil’s bedposts; the ?A is the Puppy-foot; the Jack of trumps at Spoil Five is the Playboy, and the Five of trumps is the Five Fingers.
• N. E. S. W., letters used to distinguish the players at Duplicate Whist. N always leads, unless otherwise specified.
• Nursing, keeping the balls together at Billiards, as distinguished from gathering, which brings them together.
• Odd Trick, the seventh won by the same partners at Whist.
• Open Bets, bets at Faro which play cards to win.
• Openers, cards which entitle a player to open a jack-pot.
• Original Lead, the opening lead of a hand at Whist.
• Pair, F., the even numbers at Roulette. See Impair.
• Pairs, in Duplicate Whist, the partners sitting N and S, or E and W. Any two cards of the same denomination.
• Pairs Royal, any three cards of the same denomination.
• Partie, F., a game which requires a number of deals to decide it.
• Pass, to decline any undertaking in a game.
• Passe, F., the numbers from 19 to 36 at Roulette.
• Pat Hands, those which are played without discarding or exchanging any of the cards originally dealt.
• Pausirenden, G., one who shares in the fortunes of the game, although not actually playing, as the dealer in four-handed Skat.
• Paying in Cards. When the banker and the player’s point is equal, the latter is said to “pay in cards.”
• Penultimate, the lowest but one of a suit at Whist.
• Phaser, F., to change the pack.
• Philosopher, a card sharp.
• Piano Hands, hands which run along smoothly at Whist, and yield no opportunities for loss or gain.
• Piking, making small bets all over the layout at Faro.
• Playboy, the Jack of trumps at Spoil Five.
• Plain Suits, those which are not trumps.
• Point, F., the suit containing the greatest number of pips.
• Pone, the player on the dealer’s right, who cuts the cards.
• Ponte, F., one who plays against the banker.
• Post Mortems, discussions as to what might have been at Whist, sometimes called, “If you hads.”
• Pot, strictly speaking, the amount to be played for when a pool has exceeded a certain limit, especially in Spoil Five and Boston.
• Premier en Cartes, F., the first to play.
• Private Conventions, any system of giving information by the play which could not be understood by a partner unless explained to him.
• Probabilities, the odds in favour of any event.
• Progression, a martingale which increases a bet a certain amount every time it is lost, and decreases it every time it is won.
• Proil, or Prial, Pairs Royal.
• Puits, F., only one to go, the whiskey hole.
• Punters, those who play against the banker.
• Puppy-foot, the ace of clubs.
• Quart, the English equivalent of the French word quatriÈme, a sequence of four cards.
• Quart Major, A K Q J of any suit.
• Quatorze, F., four cards of the same denomination.
• QuatriÈme, F., a sequence of four cards.
• Queue, F., the points added for winning the rubber.
• Quinte, F., a sequence of five cards.
• Quitted. A trick is quitted when the fingers are removed from it after it is turned down. In Duplicate, a trick is not quitted until all four players have removed their fingers from it. A score is quitted when the fingers are removed from the counters, the peg, or the pencil.
• Raffles, the same number appearing on all the dice thrown.
• Ranche, leaving the black pin standing alone at Pin Pool.
• Re-entry Cards, cards in other suits which bring in long suits at Whist.
• Reizen, G., to draw a person on; to irritate or provoke him to bidding more than he should.
• RejouÉ, duplicate whist.
• Renege, failure to follow suit, having none. See Revoke.
• Renounce, same as renege.
• Rentrant, F., the player who takes the place of the loser in a previous game.
• Renvier, F., to raise the bet, to improve.
• Retourne, F., any card turned on the talon, or for a trump.
• Revoke, failure to follow suit when able to do so, as distinguished from a renounce or renege.
• Ring In, to exchange any unfair for fair gambling implements during the progress of the game. See Cold Deck.
• Robbing, exchanging a card in the hand for the turn-up trump, or discarding several for the trumps remaining in the pack. See Cinch and Spoil Five.
• Rooking, hustling, inveigling a person into a game for the purpose of cheating him.
• Round, a round is complete when each player has had equal advantages with regard to deal, dummy, etc.
• Round Games, those which do not admit of partnerships.
• Rubber, winning two out of three games. F., Robre.
• Rubiconed, lurched, defeated before getting half way.
• Ruffing, trumping a suit.
• Run, a succession of counting shots at Billiards.
• Schnitt, G., a finesse.
• Schneiden, G., to finesse. Schinden is sometimes used.
• Scratch, a fluke, a score which was not played for.
• Screw Shot, a force shot at Billiards.
• Second Dealing, dealing the second card from the top of the pack, keeping back the top card until it can be dealt to yourself or your partner.
• See Saw, a cross ruff.
• Sequence, three or more cards next in value to one another. The word is sometimes used for two cards only.
• Short-card Player, a poker player; usually a sharper also.
• Short Suits, those containing less than four cards.
• Short-stop Billiards. Short-stop players are those who are good enough to play in halls hired for the purpose, but who stop short of the championship class.
• Shuffling, any method of disarranging the cards so that no trace remains of their order during the previous deal or play.
• Sights, the diamonds on the rail of an American billiard table.
• Signalling for Trumps, playing a higher card before a lower in a plain suit, when no attempt is made to win the trick.
• Singleton, one card only of any suit.
• Skin Games, those in which a player cannot possibly win.
• Skunked, whitewashed, schwartz, beaten without having been able to score a single point.
• Slam, winning all the tricks. Little Slam, winning 12 out of 13 possible.
• Sleeper, a bet left or placed on a dead card at Faro.
• Sneak, a singleton which is led for the especial purpose of ruffing the second round of the suit.
• Snowing the Cards, milking or fuzzing them.
• Soda, the first card at Faro, exposed face upward in the box before any bets are made.
• Splits, two cards of the same denomination coming on the same turn at Faro.
• Spot Stroke, a series of winning hazards with the red ball at English billiards.
• Square Game, one in which the cards are perfectly square, and have not been trimmed for wedges, strippers, etc.
• Squeezers, cards with indicators on the edges.
• Stack of Chips, twenty. A “stack of whites” is $5.
• Starter, the cut card at Cribbage.
• Stechen, G., to trump.
• Still Pack, the one not in play when two are used.
• Stock, cards left after the deal is complete, but which are to be used in the following play.
• Stool Pigeon, a hustler.
• Straight Whist, playing a hand and immediately shuffling the cards for another deal, as distinguished from Duplicate.
• Strength in Trumps, enough to justify a player in passing a doubtful trick; usually four or five at least.
• Strengthening Cards, those which are of no practical trick-taking value to the leader, but which may be useful to the partner; usually restricted to Q J 10 9.
• String Bets, those that take all the odd or all the even cards to play one way, win or lose, at Faro.
• Strippers, cards trimmed so that certain ones may be pulled out of the pack at will.
• Strohman, G., the dummy at Whist or Bridge.
• Strong Suits, those in which a number of tricks can be made after the adverse trumps are out of the way.
• Sub Echo, a trump signal in a plain suit, made after partner has led trumps, and the player has not echoed on the trump lead.
• Sub-sneak, a two-card suit which is led for the sole purpose of getting a ruff on the third round.
• Sweating Out, winning a game without taking any risks, by waiting for the trifling points that fall to your share.
• Systems, any guide that keeps a player from guessing in the distribution of his bets; as distinguished from a martingale, which controls the amount of the wager itself.
• Table Games, Chess, Checkers, and Backgammon.
• Tables, the ancient name for Backgammon.
• Taille, F., a number of packs shuffled together, which are not to be reshuffled or cut until all have been used.
• Talon, the same as Stock.
• Team Playing, requiring every member of a team to play with every other an equal number of times, at Whist.
• Tenace. The major tenace is the best and third best cards remaining, or unplayed, in any suit, such as A Q. The minor tenace is the second and fourth best, such as K J.
• TÊtes, Kings, Queens and Jacks.
• Three-card Monte. A game in which three cards are dexterously thrown on the table by a gambler, and the victim is induced to bet that he can pick out one which has been previously named and shown.
• Three-echo, an echo on a trump lead when holding three only.
• Three-on-a-side, a system of playing Faro, in which cards are bet to win or lose an odd number of times.
• TournÉe, F., see Round.
• Trailing, playing a card which accomplishes nothing.
• Trash, to discard.
• Tric, F., the odd trick at Whist or Mort.
• Tricon, F., three cards of the same denomination.
• Tric-Trac, the European name for Backgammon.
• Trump-showing Leads, a system of private conventionalities in leading plain suits at Whist, to show the number of trumps held by the leader.
• Unblocking, getting out of your partner’s way when he has more cards of the suit than you have.
• Underplay, leading a card which is not the best of a suit, when the best would naturally be led; or holding up the best card to let another player win the trick.
• Vade, F., the pool to be played for.
• Vergeben, G., misdeal.
• Verleugnen, or VerlÄugnen, G., to revoke.
• Vivant, F., Dummy’s partner.
• Vole, F., winning all the tricks, a slam.
• Vorhand, G., the eldest hand, at Skat.
• Vorwerfen, G., to play out of turn.
• Weak Trumps, not enough to justify a player in passing a doubtful trick.
• Wedges, cards trimmed to taper toward one end, so that if certain ones are reversed they can be easily pulled out.
• Welcher, one who makes mouth bets, and afterward fails to pay.
• Whipsawed, losing two different bets on the same turn.
• Whiskey Hole, only one to go.
• Whitewashed, defeated without having scored a point.
• Wide Balls, those which are near the corner of the table, and are almost sure to be hit by a ball coming from either cushion.
• Wide Cards, those which are too far apart to be likely to form sequences. See Close Cards.
• Widow, any extra hand dealt in any game.
• Wimmeln, G., to bunch the points together; to fatten a trick for the partner.
• Wimmelfinte, G., leading a card which is calculated to induce the second hand to fatten the trick for his partner.
• Winning Hazards, pocketing the object ball.
• Winning Out, a card that wins four times in the same deal at Faro.
• Yarborough, a hand at Whist containing no card higher than a Nine; the odds against it are 1827 to 1.
• Younger Hand, the one not the leader in two-handed games.
• Zange, G., a fourchette or tenace.
• Zwickmuhle, G., a cross ruff.

DRIVE WHIST.

There are several methods of playing Drive Whist; the most popular being to fill as many tables as possible with the players that present themselves, regardless of any order further than that partners should sit opposite each other. The players may select their own partners, or they may be determined by lot, according to the decision of the hostess.

Straight whist is played; the cards being shuffled and cut afresh for every hand. Each deal is a game in itself.

Drawing for Partners. If there is an equal number of ladies and gentlemen, and the number is less than fifty-two, a sufficient number of red and black cards should be sorted out, and the ladies asked to draw from the red, the men from the black; those getting the same denominations being partners. For instance: 16 couples present themselves for play. The thirteen Hearts and the A 2 3 of Diamonds should be put into one hat for the ladies; the thirteen Clubs, and A 2 3 of Spades being put into another for the men. Those drawing the same denomination of Hearts and Clubs, or of Spades and Diamonds are partners.

Before play begins, the number of hands which it is proposed to play should be announced, or a time set for adjournment.

Driving. There is no rank attached to the tables, but they should be arranged in such a manner that players may know which table to go to next. The partners seat themselves wherever they please, and at the tap of the bell at the head of the table the deal is cut for, and play begins. The winners of the majority of the thirteen tricks at each table go to the next table. Here they may either continue to play as partners, or may divide, which ever has been the style of play decided upon by the hostess. When the partnerships have been drawn for, it is usual to preserve them for the evening.

The losing gentleman at each table has the deal for the next hand.

Scoring. Every hand must be played out for all it is worth, both winners and losers scoring all the tricks they take. If the same partners play together throughout the evening, one score-card will do for the couple. If they divide, each individual must have his or her own score-card. The winners are those who have taken the greatest number of tricks in the agreed number of hands, or during the time limit. When partners divide as they drive on, there should be two prizes, one for ladies, and one for gentlemen.

BID WHIST.

This is a popular game on trains, or wherever it may be necessary to stop at the end of a deal without finishing the game. Thirteen cards are dealt to each player, one at a time, but no trump is turned. Partners sit opposite each other, and the player to the left of the dealer makes the first bid.

BIDDING. The bidding goes round until no one will go any higher. The eldest hand starts by naming the number of points he will make if allowed to name the trump and lead to the first trick, but he does not name the suit he purposes picking out. It is not necessary to lead a trump.

There are two ways to bid. In some places there are seventeen points to be played for in each deal; one for each trick of the thirteen and one for each of the four honours, ace king queen and jack, in the trump suit. Honours count to the side winning them, and not to the original holders, so that a player holding the four top honours in any suit could safely bid eight; four tricks and four honors being a certainty, but if that was all he made he would lose on the deal, as the other side would score nine points out of the seventeen.

In other places, it is the rule that the bidder must make the odd trick or he cannot count honours or anything else. There are then only eleven points to be played for in each deal; seven odd tricks and four honours. Any player bidding four would have to win the odd and three honors, or two odd and two honours, or something to make up his bid.

SCORING. No matter how many more than his bid he makes, he can score it all. If he fails, he is set back the amount of his bid. If his adversaries win the odd trick or more, they count one point for each trick over the book in addition to the amount by which they set the bidder back.

When there are seventeen points in play each deal, it is usual to take the lower score from the higher and score the difference only, but when the bidder fails, he is not set back, but simply gets nothing at all, while his opponents score all they make, without any deductions.

CARDS. This variety of whist is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, which rank from the A K Q down to the deuce. In cutting, the ace is low.

PLAYERS. Four persons cut for partners, the two highest playing against the two lowest, the lowest cut having the choice of seats and cards and dealing the first hand.

DEALING. The cards shuffled and cut, thirteen are given to each player, one at a time in rotation to the left. No trump is turned, as every hand is played without a trump.

MISDEALING. In case of any irregularity in the deal, the same dealer must deal again. The laws governing misdeals are the same as at whist or bridge.

OBJECTS OF THE GAME. The play is for tricks alone, but whether the players try to win them or to lose them depends on the declaration. In Grands it is to win; in Nullos, it is to lose.

BIDDING. The player to the left of the dealer makes the first bid. He may offer to play grand or nullo or he may pass. The moment either grand or nullo is named, the bidding ends. If the first player passes, the next to the left must declare himself. If all pass without a bid, the hand is played as a nullo. Any player bidding out of turn loses 20 points, and is barred from bidding on that deal.

METHOD OF PLAYING. If the game is grand, the player to the right of the bidder leads any card he pleases. If the game is nullo, the player to the left of the bidder leads. If no bid is made, the player to the left of the dealer leads. Either partner may take in the tricks won by his side, keeping them separate, so that they may be easily counted.

SCORING. The game is 50 points. Each trick over the first six counts four in grands, but in some places only two in nullos. This must be agreed upon before play. Tricks over the book count for the bidder’s side in grands, but against him in nullos. If the bidder and his partner fail to get the odd trick in a grand, his opponents count double for each trick they win over the book, but in nullos there is no double value.

PENALTIES. In case of a revoke, the side in fault gives three tricks to its opponents in grands, or receives three if it is a nullo. The penalty for a lead out of turn is to call a suit.

RUM.

There are several varieties of this game, and quite a number of ways of playing them, but the standard method, as adopted by the best clubs, is that here given. The principal divisions of the game are those played with the single pack, and those played with the double pack and two jokers.

SINGLE-PACK RUM.

CARDS. The full pack of fifty-two cards is used, ranking from the K Q J down to the ace, the suits having no rank. The ace may also be used in sequence with the king as the top of a sequence.

PLAYERS. Any number from two to six may play, but four or five makes the best game.

CUTTING. The cards are spread and drawn for choice of seats and first deal. The lowest cut has first choice, the next lowest sitting on his left and so on round the table.

DEALING. When two play, ten cards are given to each. When three play, seven to each. When four play, six to each. The cards are dealt one at a time until all are helped and the next card is turned face up on the table as a starter for the discard pile. The stock is left beside this card, face down.

OBJECT OF THE GAME. The aim of the players is to get rid of the cards dealt them and those they draw from the stock by laying face upward on the table any combinations of three of a kind, or three in sequence and suit.

METHOD OF PLAYING. The player to the left of the dealer begins by taking into his hand the card that is face up, if it suits him, or the top card of the stock. If he takes the top of the stock, he puts it into his hand without showing it. He may then lay out any combination of three cards that he holds, but he is not obliged to do so. Whether he lays out anything or not, he must discard a card, face up, to take the place of the one drawn. This discard is always placed beside the stock, and of course covers up any card already there.

LAYING OUT. After drawing from the stock and before discarding, a player may lay out any three cards, but no more than three at one time. Or he may add one card from his hand to any combination already laid out by another player, but he cannot add more than one card in this way. He may add a card to a combination laid out by himself if he wishes to.

CALLING OUT. Each player in turn to the left draws, lays out and discards in this manner until some player gets rid of his last card, when he calls out, and the game comes to an end. The last card in a player’s hand may be got rid of by laying it out in combination, or by discarding it if it is the only card left.

SCORING. As soon as any player calls out it is too late for any other player to lay down any combinations he may hold. Each player in turn to the left shows his hand and the winner gets credit for the pip value of his cards, jacks being worth 11, queens 12, kings 13.

It sometimes happens that the stock is exhausted before any player calls out. In this case the discards are turned face down without shuffling them and the pile drawn from as if it were the stock.

SPLASHES. The game is sometimes played with the condition that if any player chooses to risk holding his hand until he can lay it all down at once, or lay down all but the one which he is allowed to discard, he wins double from each of the others. This prompts a player with a good hand to hold it up for a round or two on the chance of getting down a splash, but the player who sees there is no chance for him should get rid of as many cards as he can before the splash comes, and in many cases some player will get rid of all his cards in two or three rounds, and win without a splash.

POKER RUM.

CARDS. In this variety of the game, the A K Q J are worth ten points each, the ace eleven, and the remaining cards their face value. The ace may be used as the top of a sequence Q K A, or the bottom of A 2 3, but not as part of a round-the-corner, K A 2.

DEALING. Ten cards are always given to each player, no matter how many are in the game. If there are more than three at the table, the double pack must be used, so as to leave cards enough for the stock.

OBJECT OF THE GAME. The aim of the player is to draw cards from the stock or discard pile until the pip value of the unmatched cards in his hand amounts to 15 or less. Sequences may run to any length, and four, five, or six of a kind is in order. The cards in hand that do not fit any combination of three or more are deadwood, and the object is to reduce this deadwood to less than fifteen.

METHOD OF PLAYING. Each player in turn to the left of the dealer draws a card from the stock or the discard pile and discards one in its place, face up. No player is allowed to lay down anything until he can show his whole hand, and then only when his deadwood is fifteen or less, and he is not obliged to lay down even then if he prefers to wait until he can reduce his deadwood still further.

THE SHOW-DOWN. As soon as any player can show down his hand, the game is at an end. He lays out his combinations and pushes them aside. Then he announces the pip value of his deadwood, after discarding a card in place of the one drawn. Suppose he draws the seven of hearts, and lays down the 6 7 8 9 of that suit; J Q K of clubs; discards the king of spades and leaves two deuces and a five for his deadwood. That is nine points.

Each of the other players in turn to the left then lays down his hand and pushes aside all combinations held. If the pip value of his deadwood is more than that of the player calling for the show-down, he pays the difference. If any player has less than the caller, then he is the winner, and each one at the table pays him, the caller paying him double as a penalty. In case of ties for low, they divide the losses of the others.

POKER GIN.

This is a variety of poker rum in which the deadwood must not exceed ten points and each player is allowed not only to put aside his own combinations after the call for a show-down comes, but may add any of his odd cards to the combinations laid out by the one who calls for a show-down.

Suppose that in the example given for poker rum, the caller showing 6 7 8 9 of hearts, J Q K of clubs, and nine in his deadwood, another player has in his ten cards the 7 8 9 of diamonds; 6 7 8 of spades, two fours and the tens of clubs and hearts.

When the show-down is called for, he has twenty-eight points in his deadwood; but by adding his club ten to the caller’s sequence of J Q K, and the heart ten to the caller’s 6 7 8 9 in that suit, he reduces his deadwood to eight points, the pair of fours, and beats the caller out by a point.

PENALTIES. If any player turns out to have less in his deadwood than the caller, as in the example just given, the caller forfeits ten points to him, in addition to having to pay for the difference. Should a player call for a show-down when he has more than ten in his deadwood, he loses five points to each of the others at the table and takes up his cards again.

DOUBLE-PACK RUM.

CARDS. This game is always played with two full packs of fifty-two cards each and two jokers, all shuffled together and used as one. The ace may be high or low in sequences.

DEALING. Ten cards are given to each player, one at a time, and the next card is turned up and laid beside the stock to start the discard pile.

LAYING OUT. Sequences in suit may run to any length, and any number of cards or combinations may be laid out at one time. Five, six or seven of a kind may be shown, and four of a kind may be of any suits. There is no obligation to lay out anything, but the player who lays out can do so only in his proper turn, after drawing a card. He may add as many cards as he pleases to any combinations already on the table, either of his own or other players.

THE JOKERS. These two cards have peculiar privileges. A joker may be called anything the holder pleases. If it is used as the interior of a sequence, such as 6 joker 8 of hearts, it must remain there, but if it is placed at the end of a sequence, any player has the right to remove it to the other end, placing it crossways, to show that it has been moved, provided he can put a card in its place, or add one to the sequence below the joker. A joker once moved cannot be moved again.

Suppose some player has laid out the 6 7 joker of clubs. The joker stands for the 8 of clubs. Another player holding the actual 8 of clubs could move the joker to the position of the 5 and add his 8. Or if he had the 4 of clubs, he could move the joker to represent the 5 and add his 4 to the sequence, or he might add both 8 and 4 if he held those cards.

On account of the privilege of laying out as many cards at a time as the player pleases, and adding as many as he can to other combinations, this is a much livelier game than the ordinary single-pack rum. The settling is the same, the winner getting the pip value of each player’s hand. In case no one has all his cards down before the stock is exhausted, which is very unusual, however, the discards are turned face down and drawn from again.

CANFIELD.

This form of solitaire is often confused with Klondike, but there is a marked difference both in the layout and the play.

The full pack of fifty-two cards is used. After it has been thoroughly shuffled and properly cut, thirteen cards are counted off, face down, and placed at the player’s left, face up. This is the stock. The fourteenth card is then turned face up and is the foundation for that deal. Let us suppose it is a seven. It is placed by itself, furthest from the player, waiting for the three other sevens to appear to form three other foundations, each in a different suit.

Four cards are then dealt off from left to right, face up, for the layout. Holding the remaining thirty-four cards in the left hand, face down, the player counts off three at a time and turns them face up on the table, but so that the top card only is seen. If this card can be used, the card under it is available. If not, the three are left on the table and three more turned up in the same way.

Let us suppose this is the appearance of the table:

The player can make several changes at once. The five of diamonds will go on the club six, the club four on the five, the ace of diamonds on the deuce of spades, leaving a space which must be filled from the top of the stock, using the card that was under the four of clubs. Another card is exposed and available under the five of diamonds.

Cards built on the foundations must be in the same suit, and build upward, nothing but eights being available on the sevens. On the layout, sequences are built down, and must change colour each time. Any time that there is a space in the four columns of the layout, the top card of the stock may be used to fill the space, but the stock itself must never be added to. If there are only two cards in any of the four columns of the layout at any time, and the top one can be used on another pile, it may be taken for that purpose. Suppose the nine of hearts were built on down to a black six, the five of diamonds could be removed to that pile to release the six of clubs.

After running through the entire pack, three cards at a time, the cards that have not been used in the process, and which are lying on the table face up, are taken up again and turned face down, without shuffling them, and run through again, three at a time. As long as any card can be used it must alter the run of the cards that will turn up in threes after that, and the player may continue to go through the pack in this way until he is stopped by being unable to use any card that shows at the top of the three he turns up.

The betting is against the player getting eleven cards in his foundation piles. If the pack is purchased for $52, he gets $5 for every card in his foundations. It is almost impossible to get out the whole fifty-two for $260, but it is done occasionally.

I DOUBT IT.

This is a good round game, any number taking part. The full pack of fifty-two cards is dealt round, one card at a time as far as it will go equally, the remainder being left in the centre of the table, face down. Any one can deal.

The player to the left of the dealer starts the game by taking from his hand any three cards he pleases and laying them on the table in front of him face down. He then announces, “These are three jacks,” or anything he likes to call them, there being no obligation to tell the truth about it, so the cards might actually be a six four and a deuce.

Each player in turn to the left can doubt the statement that the cards are three jacks, or he can pass. If any player in his proper turn says, “I doubt it,” the three cards are at once turned face up. If the statement is not correct, the three cards are at once taken back into the player’s hand, together with all the cards lying face down in the centre of the table at the time. Should the statement turn out to be true, the player who doubted it must take the three jacks and all the cards on the table.

That settled, the next player to the left lays out three cards and announces that they are three of a kind of something or other, each player to the left passing or doubting it. If no one questions the correctness of a statement, no explanation is given by the player who laid out the cards. He simply pushes them to the centre of the table with the others, face down. If he shows them, or any one of them, as some may do in a spirit of bravado, he must take all three back into his hand and all on the table with them. The object of doubting is simply to prevent a player from getting rid of three cards, but toward the end of the game one must be careful, as triplets are gradually gathered for that stage.

If any player has less than three cards in his hand when it comes to his turn to lay down, he must draw from the table, face down, enough to make three. He may look at what he draws before announcing. If there are no cards on the table, he must pass his turn.

The first to get rid of all his cards gets a chip from each of the others for each card they hold.

JASS.

This is popularly supposed to be the progenitor of the American game of pinochle, and is still very popular in Switzerland.

CARDS. Jass is played with the thirty-six card pack, the 5 4 3 2 of each suit being thrown out. The cards rank from the A K Q down to the 6, both in cutting and in play. The cards have a pip value in scoring, aces 11, tens 10, kings 4, queens 3 and jacks 2. In the trump suit, the jack is the highest card, and is worth 20 points instead of 2. The nine of trumps comes next, being worth 14 points, and is called “Nell.” The remaining trumps rank as in plain suits.

The jack of trumps has the special privilege of being allowed to renege, even when the holder of the jack can follow suit.

MARKERS. The score is usually kept on a slate.

PLAYERS. Any number from two to four can take part, but each is always for himself. The rules for two-hand differ slightly from those for three or four. (See Two-hand Jass.)

CUTTING. The first deal is cut for, high wins. The cards rank as in plain suit, and ties cut again, to decide the tie.

DEALING. When the pack is cut, at least four cards must be left in each packet. (In Switzerland they cut to the left and deal to the right; but in America this is not necessary.) The cards are dealt three at a time for three rounds, so that each player receives nine cards. When four play, the last card must be turned up for the trump. When three play, the twenty-eighth card is the trump.

OBJECT OF THE GAME. The play is to win tricks with cards of pip value in them, especially aces and tens, called game points, and also to meld certain combinations of cards that are found in the player’s hand.

When three play, the dealer may exchange his nine cards for the nine that are left on the table, but he must surrender the turned up trump among those nine cards to any player that holds the six. If the dealer does not wish to exchange, each player in turn to the left may do so. In making the exchange, no card of the nine originally dealt to the player may be kept, not even the six of trumps.

The pip value of the cards won in tricks count for the player at the end of the hand. The following values are for the melds:

The melds are made after the player has played his card to the first trick, whether he wins that trick or not, but the melds are not credited to him on the slate unless he wins at least one trick during the play of the hand.

METHOD OF PLAYING. When four play it is sometimes permissible for one to pass out, each in turn to the left having the right. The first thing is for the holder of the six of trumps to exchange it for the turned-up trump. The player to the left of the dealer then leads any card he pleases, and each player in turn must follow suit and must head the trick if he can; by trumping if he has none of the suit led. As soon as a card is played, the player makes his meld, announcing its pip value. The winner of the last trick scores five points for it.

SCORING. Sometimes 1,000 points is a game, as in pinochle, and the first player to call out wins if he is correct; if not he loses. Sometimes in three or four-hand, it is agreed to play some number of deals divisible by four, usually 12 or 16. These are indicated by cross marks on the slate, each arm representing a deal. The two players with the higher scores at the end of the hand each rub off a mark and the one who is first to rub off all his marks is the winner, or the last to wipe off is stuck, according to agreement. Any one failing to get as many as 21 points in meld and play is set back a mark.

TWO-HAND JASS.

When only two play, the game closely resembles American pinochle, the winner of each trick drawing a card from the top of the stock, the loser drawing the next one. All melds are made immediately after winning a trick and before drawing from the stock, only one meld at a time being allowed. It is not necessary to follow suit to anything until the stock is exhausted, after which all melds cease and the second player to each trick must win it if he can, but the jack of trumps still has the privilege of renouncing if a plain suit is led.

PATIENCE POKER

As its name implies, this is a form of solitaire, but it may be managed so as to provide a pleasing competition for any number of players. Both forms of the game will be described, the solitaire first.

CARDS. The full pack of fifty-two cards is shuffled and cut. Keeping it face down in the left hand, the top card is turned up and laid upon the table. The next card is turned up and laid in such a position that it touches the first one, either on one of its four edges, or one of its four corners. The third card must touch one or other of the two already on the table in the same manner, and so on until twenty-five cards have been drawn and placed, but the twenty-five must be so arranged as to form a square of five cards each way.

As no card can be moved from its original position, as soon as there are cards enough in either direction, up and down, or from left to right, to make a row of five, no more cards can be laid beyond that point, as it would transgress the limits of the square.

OBJECT OF THE GAME. The aim of the player is to place each card as it comes from the top of the pack in the most advantageous position for combining with other cards, either already there or hoped for, so that each row of five cards, up and down, or right to left, shall be a poker hand of some value.

VALUE OF THE HANDS. The various hands possible in poker are given a counting value, supposed to be in proportion to the difficulty of getting them. There are three systems of counting in common use, the English differing slightly from the American, both in value and in rank. The various scoring values are here given:

The first column given is the American system of counting by fives, after one pair, retaining the regular poker rank of the hands. The second column is the American system that puts the straight next to the full hand, and the flush between two pairs and a triplet. The third column is the English system, which ranks the straight above the full hand.

As no person has as yet come forward with any figures to show which combination is easier to get in patience poker, nor the proportion of one hand to the other, these figures are all guess work; and players may adopt any values they please.

As soon as the tableau is complete, with five rows of five cards each, the value of each of the ten hands the tableau contains is found and the total put down. The object of the solitaire player usually is to see how many tableaus he needs to reach a grand total of 500 points.

SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY. Experience has shown that it pays to keep certain classes of hand in one section, either left to right or up and down. Many players put all the flushes in the vertical columns, and build the pairs, triplets and fours from right to left. Straights are uncertain quantities unless they are flush also and are seldom played for.

Each card has a double value, and it may help to make up two hands of high scoring power, if well placed. The highest possible point value for a tableau would probably be five hands of four of a kind and five straight flushes, four of which would be royal, like this:

The odds against the cards coming from the stock in such order as to make a tableau like this possible would be enormous, but there are many sets of twenty-five cards that can be rearranged so as to make a much higher count than that actually arrived at in the solitaire. The player’s skill consists in anticipating the possibilities that certain cards will be drawn and in so arranging his table that if the hoped for card comes out, the most advantageous place will be found open for it.

TWO OR MORE PLAYERS. Any number can play this game, the only limitation being the number of packs available and space enough on the table for each one to lay out his own tableau. One player is selected as the “caller” and he shuffles his pack and presents it to be cut. In the meantime each of the others sorts his individual pack into sequence and suit, so as to be able to pick out any named card without unnecessary delay.

METHOD OF PLAYING. The caller starts by taking off his top card and placing it face up on the table, at the same time announcing aloud its suit and rank, as “Seven of clubs.” This makes it unnecessary for the others to watch the cards the caller draws.

Each player picks out his seven of clubs and places it on the table in front of him, face up, as a starter for his tableau. Suppose the next card called is the ten of diamonds. As each player can place that card in any one of eight different positions with regard to the seven of clubs, and the next card after that in any one of a dozen positions, it must be evident that although the twenty-five cards called will be the same for every tableau, the resulting poker combinations may be vastly different.

SCORING. Each player is credited with the value of his tableau, and then the duty of being caller passes to the left. The game is at an end when an agreed number of deals have been played, or at the expiration of a specified time, the highest total score being the winner.

SOLITAIRE CRIBBAGE.

This game may be played by one person or by several, two to four making an interesting game, either as partners or each for himself.

The individual player takes a full pack of fifty-two cards, shuffles and cuts, and deals off three for himself, two for his crib, and then three more for himself. Taking up the six, he sorts them and discards for the crib, just as if the two cards already there had been laid off by an opponent. The pack is then cut for the starter.

There is no play, and the hand is turned up and counted, scoring it on a regular cribbage board. The crib is then counted and scored. Leaving the starter still face up on the top of the pack, the eight cards in hand and crib are thrown aside. For the next deal, the player gives himself three cards from the top of the pack, one of which was the starter on the last deal, then two for the crib and three more for himself, discarding for the crib, cutting a starter, counting and scoring hand and crib as before.

This is continued until only four cards are left, one of them being the starter for the last deal. Turn up these four cards and count them as a hand.

The game is usually 91 points, and the object of the solitaire player is to see if he can reach the game hole without going through the pack more than once. If he does not reach with six hands and cribs, each with a starter, and one hand of four cards without a starter, he has failed to get the solitaire.

WHEN TWO OR MORE PLAY. The object is now to see which player or partnership can get the greatest number of points in going through the pack once, each playing his own solitaire with his individual pack, but keeping level with his opponents in the matter of hands and deals.

It is usual for each to cut the starter for the other and then to verify the count of the other’s hands and cribs. If one reaches 91 before the other gets round past 60, it is reckoned as a double game. If neither side reaches 91 before the pack runs out, the player that comes nearer to it wins. When two play against two as partners, each takes an adversary and plays against him individually, the scores being balanced at the end by adding those of the partners together.