  There are certain games of cards which do not seem to belong to any particular family, but stand apart from other games, and have been played since their first invention with only trifling variations, giving rise to no offshoots bearing other names. These are usually the most popular games with the middle and lower classes in the countries in which they are found, and may be considered as distinctly national in character. Games that become popular with the masses always last longer than others, and the rules governing them are much better understood, and more firmly established. In the course of a century the English aristocracy have run the gamut of Quadrille, Ombre, Whist, ÉcartÉ, BÉzique, Piquet, Rubicon, and Bridge; while the middle classes have stuck steadily to Cribbage for nearly two hundred years. Six of these popular games are strikingly typical of the national character, both in their construction, and in the manner of playing them. These are: Skat in Germany; Cribbage in England; Piquet in France; Conquian in Mexico; Calabrasella in Italy; and Cassino in America. All these are excellent games, and have deservedly survived much more pretentious rivals. With the exception of Skat, little is known of the exact origin of any of these games, although most of them may be traced by their resemblance to more ancient forms. Skat is the most modern, and to-day the most popular, many persons thinking it superior to Whist. The game seems to have originated among the farmers of Thuringia, a province of Saxony, and was probably a variation of the Wendish game of Schapskopf. The first mention of Skat that we can find is in an article in the “OsterlÄnder BlÄttern,” in 1818. Thirty years later Professor Hempel of Altenburg published the rules and principles of the game under the title: “Das Skatspiel, von J.F.L.H.” It is said that he learned the game from a friend, who had been taught it by a Wendish coachman in his employ. The game spread rapidly, and soon became popular all over Germany, but with many minor variations in the details of play. To settle these, a Skat congress was finally held in Altenburg in 1886. This was succeeded by others in Leipzic In America, Reichs-Skat is no longer played; the value of some of the games is changed, and all the bidding is by Zahlen-reizen. In all the text-books on Skat which we have examined, this fact has been entirely overlooked. SKAT.The etymology of the word Skat, sometimes spelt Scat, is a matter of doubt, but the most plausible explanation is that it is a corruption of one of the terms in the parent game of Taroc; “scart,” from “scarto,” what is left; or “scartare,” to discard or reject. “Matadore” is another word from the game of Taroc, still retained in Skat. Others attribute the word to “Skatt,” the Old-German or Anglo-Saxon for money; the modern German, “Schatz,” a treasure, referring to the forms of the game in which good counting cards are laid aside in the skat for the count at the end of the hand. This derivation would account for both spellings of the word, with a “k” and with a “c.” The student is advised to make himself familiar with the German terms in the following description, as they are in common use wherever skat is played. Many American players who use the English language in bidding by figures, still adhere to the German names for the suits and positions at the table. CARDS. Skat is played with a pack of thirty-two cards, all below the Seven being deleted. The rank of the cards differs according to whether the players are attempting to win or to lose tricks. If the object is to win tricks, it is known as a “game;” if the object is to lose, it is called a “nullo.” In nullo the cards rank in their natural order; A K Q J 10 9 8 7, the Ace being the highest. In the various “games,” the four Jacks are always the best trumps, and are known as Wenzels. The other cards follow the usual German rank; A 10 K Q 9 8 7, the Ace being the highest in plain suits. The German names for the cards are as follows;—Jack: Wenzel, Bauern, Bube, Jungen, or Unter. Ace: As, or Daus. Ten, Zehn. King, KÖnig. Queen: Dame, Ober, or KÖnigen. Nine, Neun. Eight, Acht. Seven, Sieben. The most common terms are; Bube, As, Zehn, KÖnig, Dame, etc. The words Unter and Ober for the Jack and Queen, refer to the manner of marking the suits on the German cards. In the Queens, the mark of the suit is always above the figure, which has a single head; Rank of the Suits. In addition to the rank of the cards themselves, the suits outrank one another, except in Nullo, clubs being always the best, then spades, hearts and diamonds. The Germans have various names for the suits, that first given in each instance being in common use among modern Germans. Clubs: Kreuz, Trefle, Eicheln, Eckern, or BraÜn. Spades: Pique, SchÜppen, Laub, or GrÜn. Hearts: Hertzen, Coeur, or Roth. Diamonds: Carreau, Schellen, Eckstein, Ruthen, or Gelb. In the German notation of card games and problems, the suits are indicated by the French terms: clubs, tr for trefle; spades, p for pique; hearts, co for coeur; diamonds, car for carreau. The cards are indicated by the initials; A K D B Z 9 8 7, which stand for As, KÖnig, Dame, Bube, Zehn, etc. The winning card in each trick is always printed in full-faced type. The cards of each suit are divided into two parts, known as counting cards, Zahlkarten, and those having no counting value; Fehlkarteten or Ladons. The counting cards and their values are as follows:—Ace 11, Ten 10, King 4, Queen 3, and Jack 2. These are used in reckoning up the value of the tricks won by each side in counting toward 61 in all the “games,” but not in Nullo. The Seven, Eight and Nine have no counting value. The rank of the suits has no influence on their trick-taking powers, nor on the value of the Zahlkarten; but it increases or diminishes the value of the “game” played for. When any suit is made the trump, it takes the precedence of the three others only in so far as trumps will win other suits, and the suits which are not trumps are equal in value so far as trick-taking is concerned. As the four Wenzels are always the highest trumps, there will always be eleven cards in the trump suit, and seven in each of the plain suits; so that if clubs were trumps, the rank of the cards would be:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? " ?? ?? ?? In any of the other suits the rank would be:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? Matadores. The club Jack is always the best trump, and every trump card in unbroken sequence with the club Jack is called a Matadore, provided the sequence is in the hand of the same player. This rule holds whether the sequence was in the hand originally dealt to him or part of it is found in the Skat, should he become possessed of the Skat cards. For instance: Clubs are trumps, and a player holds these cards:— He has only one Matadore; but as the Skat cards will belong to him if he has made the trump, he may find in them the spade Jack, which would complete his sequence, giving him six Matadores, instead of one. As one side or the other must have the club Jack in every deal, there must always be a certain number of Matadores, from one to eleven. If the player who makes the trump has them, he is said to play with so many; if his adversaries hold them, he is said to play without just as many as they hold. The difficult thing for the beginner at Skat to understand is that whether a player holds the Matadores or not, the number of them has exactly the same influence on the value of his game. If one player held these cards ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? and wished to make hearts trumps, he would be playing “with two.” If another player wished to make the same suit trumps with these cards:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? he would be playing “without two,” and the value of each game would be exactly the same, no matter which player actually made the trump. Matadores must be held; they do not count if won from the adversaries in the course of play. MARKERS. Counters of any kind are not used in Skat, as the score is kept on a writing pad, which should be ruled into vertical columns for the number of players engaged. PLAYERS. Skat is played by three persons. If there are four at the table the dealer takes no cards, but shares the fortunes of those who are opposed to the single player, winning and losing on each hand whatever they win and lose. If there are five or six at the table, the dealer gives cards to the two on his left, and the one next him on the right. Those holding no cards share the fortunes of the two who are opposed to the single player. After the table is formed, no one can join the game without the consent of all those already in, and then only after a round; that is, after each player at the table has had an equal number of deals. Should any player cut into a table during the progress of a game, he must take his seat at the right of the player who dealt the first hand. When six persons offer for play, it is much better to form two tables, but some persons object to playing continuously, and like the rest given to the dealer when more than three play. There are always three active players in Skat. The one who makes the trump is called the player, or Spieler; the two opposed to him are called the adversaries, or Gegners; while those who hold no cards are called im Skat, or Theilnehmer. Of the three active players, the one who leads for the first trick is called Vorhand; the second player is called Mittelhand, and the third Hinterhand. The person sitting on the dealer’s right, to whom the cards are presented to be cut, is called the pone. No person is allowed to withdraw from the game without giving notice in advance, and he can retire only at the end of a round of deals. It is usual to give notice at the beginning of a round, by saying: “This is my last.” CUTTING. Positions at the table are drawn for, the cards ranking as in play, Jacks being the best, and the suits outranking one another in order, so that there can be no ties in cutting. The lowest cut has the first choice of seats, and also deals the first hand. It is usual for the player sitting on the right of the first dealer to keep the score, so that one may always know when a round ends. STAKES. Skat is played for so much a point, and the single player wins from or loses to each of the others at the table. A cent a point is considered a pretty stiff game, half a cent being more common in good clubs. Many play for a fifth, or even a tenth of a cent a point. At half a cent a point, ten dollars will usually cover a run of pretty bad luck in an evening’s play. DEALING. At the beginning of the game the cards should Only three persons at the table receive cards, no matter how many are in the game. If there are four players, the dealer gives himself no cards. If there are five or six players, the first two on the dealer’s left and the pone receive cards. The other persons at the table are said to be “im Skat,” because they are laid aside for that deal. The cards may be distributed in several ways, but whichever manner the first dealer selects must be continued during the game, both by the original dealer, and by the others at the table. Ten cards are given to each player, and two are dealt face downward in the centre of the table for the Skat. No trump is turned. The cards must be dealt, three cards to each player, then two to the Skat; then four to each player again, and finally three. Irregularities in the Deal. If the pack is found to be imperfect, the deal in which the error is discovered is void; but any previous scores or cuts made with that pack stand good. If the cards have not been cut, or if a card is found faced in the pack, or if the dealer exposes a card in dealing, any active player who has not looked at his cards may demand a fresh deal by the same dealer. If the dealer gives too many or too few cards to any player, he must shuffle and deal again. If the error is not discovered until the hand is partly played out, the deal is void, and the misdealer deals again. A misdeal does not lose the deal under any circumstances, but it is usual to exact a penalty of ten points for a misdeal. OBJECTS OF THE GAME. The object of each player is to obtain the privilege of attempting to accomplish a certain task, which is known as his “game,” and which he must be able to carry through successfully against the combined efforts of the two other players. The more difficult the task undertaken, the greater the number of points scored for it, and the player who will undertake the game which is of the greatest value of those offered must be allowed the privilege of trying it. In order to determine which player this is, they may all bid for the privilege by naming a certain number of points, usually well within the actual value of the game they intend to play. If a bidder meets with opposition, he gradually approaches the true value of his game, and the player whose game is worth the most will of course be able to bid the greatest number of points, and must be selected as the player, the two others being his adversaries. Games. These games are divided into two principal classes, those in which the player undertakes to win, and those in which he tries to lose. When he plays to lose, it is to lose every trick, When Ramsch is played, the object is to take less than either of the other players; but the cards rank as in the ordinary game, except that the four Jacks are the only trumps. In all other games the successful bidder undertakes to win; but his success does not depend on the number of tricks he takes in, but on the total value of the counting cards contained in those tricks. The total value of all the counting cards is 120 points, and to be successful, the single player must win at least 61. If he succeeds in winning 61 or more points, he wins his game, whatever it may be. If he can get 91 points, he wins a double game, which is called schneider. If he can take every trick, he wins a treble game, which is called schwartz. It is not enough to win 120 points, for if the adversaries win a single trick, even if it contains no counting cards, they save the schwartz. If the single player fails to reach 61, he loses. If he fails to reach 31, he is schneider; and if he fails to take a trick he is schwartz. These various results increase the value of the game, as will presently be seen. There are four varieties of games in which the successful bidder plays to win, the difference being in the manner of using the skat cards, and making the trump. These games are called Frage, TournÉ, Solo, and Grand, and they outrank one another in the order given, Frage being the lowest. The first three: Frage, TournÉ and Solo, are each again divided into four parts, according to the suit which is trumps; a TournÉ in clubs being better than one in spades; a Solo in hearts being better than one in diamonds, and so on. This is in accordance with the rank of the suits already mentioned in the paragraph devoted to that subject. In a Frage, or Simple Game, the successful bidder takes both the skat cards into his hand, and then declares which suit shall be the trump; discarding two cards face downward for his schatz, or treasure, before play begins. The two cards thus laid aside count for the single player at the end of the hand, provided he takes a trick, and they cannot be won by the adversaries unless they make the single player schwarz. Frage is no longer played. In a TournÉ, the successful bidder turns one of the skat cards face upward on the table before looking at the second card. He may turn over whichever card he pleases, but the one he turns fixes the trump suit for that hand. If the card turned over is a Jack, he may change to a Grand; but he must do so before he sees the second card in the Skat. If the player does not like the first card he turns, he need not show it, but may put it in his hand and turn the other. This second one must be the trump; or a Grand may be played if the card is a Jack. In case the game is lost after taking the second card, it costs double. This is called Passt mir Nicht. In a Solo, the skat cards are not touched, the successful bidder naming the trump to suit the hand of ten cards originally dealt him. The Skat belongs to him, as in Frage and TournÉ, but he must not see its contents until the hand is played out, when any points and Matadores it may contain will count for him. In a Grand there is no trump suit, the four Jacks being the only trumps in play. These four cards preserve their relative suit value, the club Jack being the best, and they are still Matadores. There are four varieties of Grand: A tournÉ player may make it a Grand if he turns up a Jack. This is called a Grand TournÉ. A player may make it a grand without seeing either of the skat cards. This is called a Grand Solo. A player may announce a Grand and lay his cards face up on the table; exposed, but not liable to be called. This is called a Grand Ouvert. A Frage cannot be played as a Grand under any circumstances. A player may announce Gucki Grand, which means that he will take both the skat cards into his hand at once, in order to get the privilege of laying out any two cards he pleases, but that Jacks will be the only trumps. If a Gucki Grand is lost, it costs double. A player may announce a Gucki Nullo, in which he takes both the skat cards into his hand and lays out any two cards he pleases. This loses double if it is not successful. Revolution is seldom played. It is a Nullo in which the adversaries put their twenty cards together as one hand to see if they can make the player take a trick. Uno and Duo are Grands, in which the single player engages to take one trick in Uno, or two in Duo, neither more nor less. GAME VALUES. Each of the foregoing games has what is called a unit of value, which is afterward multiplied several times according to the number of Matadores, and whether the game was schneider or schwarz. These unit values are as follows, beginning with the lowest:
When one player takes no trick in a Ramsch, the player with the greater number of points loses 30. If two players take no trick, the loss is 50 points. All Guckis lose double if they fail, so that if a player announces a Gucki Nullo and loses it, he will lose 30; but if he won it he would get 15 only. If a player has a Gucki Null Ouvert, he must announce that it is to be played open before he touches the skat cards. It is then worth 30 if won; 60 if lost. Passt-mir-nicht tournÉes all lose double if they fail, but win the usual number of points if they succeed. Multipliers. The foregoing are simply the standard counting values of these various games. In calculating the actual value of a player’s game, in order to see how much he may safely offer in the bidding, and how much he would win if successful in his undertaking, these standard values are multiplied as follows:— Five classes of games are recognized, beginning with the lowest, in which the player gets the necessary 61 points, but does not make his adversaries schneider. This is simply called “game,” and as it must always be either won or lost, it is a constant factor. The value of the game is 1, and each better game is numbered in regular order, the five varieties being as follows: The Game, 1. Schneider, 2. Schwarz announced or Schwarz, 3. Schwarz after announcing Schneider, 4. Schwarz announced, 5. These numbers are added to the number of Matadores, and the total thus found is multiplied by the unit value of the game. For instance: A player has obtained the privilege of playing on a bid of thirty. His game is a Solo in hearts, in which he holds the three highest Matadores and announces schneider in advance. His game multiplier is therefore 3 (for the announced schneider), to which he adds 3 more for the Matadores, 6 altogether. The unit value of a heart Solo being 10, he could have gone on bidding to 60 had it been necessary, and he will win 60 from each of his adversaries if he succeeds in reaching 91 points in the counting cards he takes in in his tricks, together with what he finds in the Skat. If his adversaries got to 30 with their counting cards, he would have lost 60 to each of them, although he bid only 30, because he announced his game as schneider, and did not make it. Had he not announced the schneider, and reached 91 or more in his counting cards, he would have won a game worth 50, losing the extra multiplier by not announcing the schneider in advance; for a schneider made without announcing it is worth only 2. In reckoning the value of a game it is always safer to bid on playing “with” than “without” Matadores in a Solo or TournÉ; because, although you may have a hand “without four,” you may find a Wenzel in the Skat, and if it is the club Jack you lose three multipliers at once. BIDDING. The players must be familiar with the manner of computing the various games in order to bid with judgment, and without hesitation. Suppose you hold the three highest Matadores with an average hand, not strong enough in any one suit to play a Solo, but good enough for a TournÉ. Your smallest possible game will be diamonds with three; which will be worth 5 multiplied by 4; 1 for the game, and 3 for the Matadores, 20 points. If you can get the game on any bid less than 20 you are absolutely safe, provided you can reach 61 in your tricks. But the opposition of another player may irritate you, [reizen,] and provoke you to bid 24, or even 28, in the hope of turning a heart or a spade. If you go beyond 20, and turn a diamond, you must either find the fourth Matadore in the Skat, or make your adversaries schneider, in order to secure another multiplier. If you fail, you lose 24, or 28, according to your bid. The great difficulty in Skat is to judge the value of a hand, so as neither to under nor overbid it, and also to get all out of it that it is worth. A person who plays a Frage in hearts when he could easily have made it a Solo, reduces the value of his game just eighty per cent. A player with the four Wenzels, A K Q 9 8 of diamonds, and a losing card, would be foolish to play a diamond Solo with five, schneider announced, worth 72; while he had in his hand a sure Grand, with four, schneider announced, worth 140. Of course the schneider is not a certainty. The risk is that the Ten of diamonds will be guarded, and that an Ace and a Ten will make, both of them on your losing card, or one of them on the diamond Ten. A careful player would be satisfied with 100 on such a hand, for if he fails to make the announced schneider, he loses everything. A player is not obliged to play the game he originally intended to, if he thinks he has anything better; but he must play a game worth as much as he bid, or the next higher, and having once announced his game, he must play it. Suppose Vorhand has a spade Solo with two, and on being offered 33 says, “Yes,” thinking the bidder will go on to 36, instead of which he passes. It is very probable that the bidder has a spade Solo without two, and will defeat a spade Solo announced by Vorhand. If Vorhand has almost as good a game in hearts, he should change, hoping to make schneider, or to find another Matadore in the Skat. If he loses the game, a heart Solo with two costs 30 points; but as Vorhand refused 33, and the next best game he could have made with a heart Solo is 40, that is the amount he loses, although he refused only 33. Method of Bidding. The Vorhand always holds the play, and the Mittelhand always makes the first bid, or passes, the Hinterhand saying nothing until the propositions made by the Mittelhand The old German way of bidding, adopted at the Skat Congresses in Altenburg, Leipzig and Dresden, was to bid in suits; a bid of club Solo outranking one of spade Solo, no matter what it was worth. This has long been obsolete, the objection to it being that a player might get the play on a game of much inferior value. A player with a spade Solo, six Matadores, and schneider announced could offer only a spade Solo, without mentioning its value, and although his game was worth 99, he could be outbid by an offer of Nullo, which was then worth only 20. This is contrary to the spirit of the game, which requires that the person offering the game of the greatest value shall be the player. The rank of the bids in the old German game was as follows, beginning with the lowest:—
The multipliers were the same as those used in the modern game, but the player had no means of using them in his bids. It will be observed that the modern value of the various games seeks to preserve the old rank by assuming the lowest possible bid on any given game. In some parts of Germany it is still the custom to reckon Solos at the tournÉ values, simply adding one multiplier for “out of THE SKAT CARDS. The successful bidder determined, the skat cards are pushed towards him, and the manner in which he uses them limits the game he is allowed to play. While the player must win or lose a game worth as many as bid, he may attempt to win as many more as he pleases. If he has got the play on a bid of ten, that does not prevent him from playing a club Solo, with schneider announced. But if he has bid or refused eleven, and plays a tournÉ in diamonds, he must make schneider or play with or without two Matadores in order to bring his multipliers up to three. It both these fail him he loses 15, the next higher game than his bid possible in a diamond tournÉ. As Frage is no longer played on account of its small value, if the player takes both the skat cards into his hand at the same time, without showing them, his game must be a Gucki Grand, unless he has previously announced that it is a Gucki Nullo. His game announced, he lays out any two cards he pleases for his skat, so as to play with ten only. If the player turns over either of the skat cards, his game is limited to a tournÉ. If he turns a Jack, he may change to Grand, but not to Grand Ouvert. Neither schneider nor schwarz can be announced in any game in which the skat cards are used. A tournÉ player must lay out two skat cards to reduce his hand to ten cards. If the player neither turns over nor takes into his hand either of the skat cards, he may play any of the suit Solos, Grand Solo, Grand Ouvert, Nullo, or Null Ouvert. He may announce schneider or schwarz in any Solo. Any player looking at the skat cards before the beginning of the play is debarred from bidding that deal, and is penalised ten points in the score. In addition to this penalty, either of the other players may demand a fresh deal. If a player looks at the skat cards during the play of a hand the play is immediately stopped, and if he is the single player he can count only the points taken in up to that time, exclusive of the skat. These points are deducted from 120, and his adversaries claim the difference. The game is then settled, according to this count, exactly as if the hand had been played out. If an adversary of the single player looks at either of the skat cards during the play of a hand, the single player may at once stop the game, and his adversaries can count only the points they have taken in in tricks up to that time. If they have no tricks they are schwartz; if they have not 30 points they are schneider. When four or more play, any person holding no cards may be penalised ten points for looking at the skat cards. METHOD OF PLAYING. The successful bidder having disposed of the skat cards and announced his game, the Vorhand leads any card he pleases for the first trick. Vorhand should be careful not to lead until the player has laid out or discarded for the Skat in a Gucki or a TournÉ. Players must follow suit if they can, but are not obliged to win the trick. Having none of the suit led, they may trump or discard at pleasure. The highest card played, if of the suit led, wins the trick, and trumps win all other suits. The winner of the first trick leads for the next, and so on, until all the cards have been played, or the game is acknowledged as won or lost, and abandoned. In a Grand, if a Jack is led, players must follow suit with the other Jacks, they being trumps. Abandoned Hands. If the single player finds he has overbid himself, or sees that he cannot make as good a game as bid, he may abandon his hand to save himself from being made schneider or schwarz, provided he does so before he plays to the second trick. A Solo cannot be abandoned in this manner, as the rule is made only to allow a player to get off cheaply who has been unlucky in finding nothing in the Skat to suit his hand. For instance: A player has risked a TournÉ with a missing suit, and turns up that suit. He can abandon his hand at once, losing his bid or the next higher game, but escaping schneider. Irregularities in the Hands. If, during the play of a hand, any person is found to have too many or too few cards, the others having their right number, it is evident that there has been no misdeal if the pack is perfect and there are two cards in the Skat. If the player in error has too few cards, probably from having dropped one on the floor, or having played two cards to the same trick, he loses in any case, but the adversary may demand to have the hand played out in order to try for schneider or schwarz, and the last trick, with the missing card, must be considered as having been won by the side not in fault. If the player in fault is opposed to the single player, his partner suffers with him. If the player discovers his loss, he is not allowed to pick the card from the floor and replace it in his hand if he has in the meantime played to a trick with a wrong number of cards. Playing Out of Turn. The usual penalty in America for leading or playing out of turn is the loss of the game if the error is made by the adversaries of the single player. If by the player himself, the card played in error must be taken back, and if only one adversary has played to the false lead, he may also take back his card. If both have played, the trick stands good. The single player suffers no penalty, as it is only to his own disadvantage to expose his hand. The Revoke. If a player revokes, and he is one of the adversaries of the single player, the game is lost for the player in error; Seeing Tricks. The tricks must be kept separate as they are taken in, and any player is allowed to look at the last trick turned and quitted. Any player looking at any other trick but the last may be penalized ten points. Playing Ouverts. The rules of the game require Ouverts to be exposed face upward on the table before a card is played. SCORING. The score should always be kept by the player sitting on the right of the first dealer. This will mark the rounds. The score sheet should be ruled in vertical columns, one for each player at the table. Each player is charged individually with his losses and gains, the amounts being added to or deducted from his score, and a plus or a minus mark placed in front of the last figure, so that the exact state of each player’s score will be apparent at a glance. The score of the single player is the only one put down, and it is charged to him as a loss or a gain at the end of each deal. If there are four players, a line is drawn under every fourth amount entered in each person’s account. If three play, the line is drawn under every third amount. This system of scoring will show at once whose turn it is to deal, if the total number of amounts under which no line is drawn are counted up. For instance: Three persons play; A dealt the first hand. In the first three columns are shown the amounts won and lost in the three rounds, while the last three columns show the manner in which these losses and gains were entered on the score sheet:—
At the end of the second round a line was drawn under A’s account, which then contained three items; and after the first game in the third round a line was drawn under C’s account. If we suppose the game to be stopped at this point, the scores would be balanced as follows: We take the three scores and bring them down on one line. We draw a line under them, and proceed as follows: First we take
The same method may be used when four play; but some prefer to call the lowest score zero, and so make all the others plus. Suppose the final scores were as follows:
If B is zero, his points are to be taken from those of each of the others, as B is plus. If the low score is a minus, the points must be added to each of the others. The three totals are added, and found, in this case, to be 520, which is the total of B’s loss. We now multiply the scores by the number of players engaged, in this case four, and from the product we deduct the 520 already found. Then the scores balance. When Skat is played for the League stake, which is one-fourth of a cent a point, the results may be found in a still shorter way by adding up all the scores and taking an average, this average being the sum divided by the number of players. Take the results just given for example:—
The average is simply deducted from each score, and the remainder is the amount won or lost, in cents. CHEATING. As in all games in which the cards are dealt in groups, the greek will find many opportunities in Skat. The clumsiest shuffler can usually locate some of the Wenzels at the top or the bottom of the pack, before presenting it to be cut, and if the players do not insist on the cards being dealt always in the same manner, the sharper can secure to himself two or more Wenzels, either in his hand or in the Skat. Any person who deals the cards sometimes three at a time, and again five at a time, should be stopped immediately, and no such excuses as changing his luck should be listened to for a moment. Any person who habitually picks up the cards with their faces towards him, and straightens them by lifting them from their positions in the pack, should be stopped at once, and requested to straighten the cards face down. Dealing seconds is very difficult when the cards have to be “pinched” in threes and fours. A second dealer holding back a Wenzel on the top may give his adversary two underneath without knowing it. Marked cards are of advantage only when the dealer plays, and are of little use beyond telling him what he can turn up for a trump, or what he will find in the Skat. The rule for having four in the game, if possible, is one of the greatest safeguards, unless the dealer is in secret partnership with one of the players. SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY. The chief things to master in Skat are the values of the hands, the principles of bidding on them, the best methods of playing them, and the proper methods of combining forces with your partner for the time being, in order to defeat the single player. Bidding. Some persons attach a great deal of importance to the odds for and against certain cards being in the Skat. If a player without three is forced to risk finding a Matadore in the Skat, it is usually enough for him to know that the odds are about 3 to 1 against it. It is much more important for him to consider what cards may make against him, and what they would count. It is often necessary to estimate very closely the number of points that must fall on a certain number of leads. For instance: You are Vorhand, and hold these cards:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? Even if you find the Ace and Ten with the best Wenzel in one hand against you, you have an almost certain club Solo, for if you lead a Wenzel, your adversary must either take it, or give you the Ace or Ten. If he wins it, and his partner gives him a Ten of Another familiar example is the following: You are Vorhand with these cards:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? Although you cannot possibly win more than six tricks, and must lose every trick in the red suits, you have an invincible Grand; because the adversaries have not a sufficient number of Fehlkarten to give you to avoid adding 16 points to the 46 you already have in your hand, which must make you 62 before they get a trick. It is better to bid on a doubtful Solo than on a risky TournÉ, and if you have a choice of two numerically equal suits, it is better to bid on a suit containing small cards in preference to one containing A 10. In bidding TournÉs, you must remember that the more cards you hold of a suit, the less your chance to turn up one. It is not good play to bid a Solo on four or five trumps unless you have some aces in the other suits. A Grand may be bid even without a trump, if you have the lead, and hold four aces, or three aces and four Tens. A Grand with any two Wenzels is safe if you have two good suits. A Nullo should never be bid unless the player has the Seven of his long suit. A certain amount of risk must be taken in all bids, and a player who never offers a game that is not perfectly safe is called a Maurer; one who builds on a solid foundation. The player who offers the most games will usually win the most unless he is a very poor player. Leading. The single player should almost always begin with the trumps, in order to get them out of his way. With a sequence of Wenzels, it is a common artifice to begin with the lowest, hoping the second player may fatten the trick by discarding a Ten or Ace, under the impression that the Hinterhand can win it. This style of underplay is called Wimmelfinte, and the Mittelhand should beware of it. With only one Wenzel and the Ace and Ten, it is better to begin with a small trump. If you find all the trumps in one hand against you, or tenace over you, stop leading trumps, and play forcing cards. If you have no Wenzels it is usually best to lead your smallest trumps. If you have only Ace Ten and small trumps, and know Laying out the Skat. In a Frage or a TournÉ, some judgment is required in discarding for the Skat. It is often necessary to lay aside the Ace and Ten of trumps if there is any danger that the adversaries may catch them. Unguarded Tens should always be laid out, and it is a good general principle to get rid of one suit entirely, so that you can trump it. It is a common practice to put in the Skat the Ace and Ten of a suit of which you hold also the King. When you lead the King, if Mittelhand has none of the suit he is sure to fatten the trick for his partner, thinking he must have Ace or Ten. With the Ten, King, and small cards of a plain suit, lay the Ten and King in the Skat. The Adversaries should combine against the single player by getting him between them if possible. If you sit on the left of the player, lead your short suits up to him; but if you sit on his right, lead your longest suit through him. Try to force out his trumps on your plain-suit cards if you can, and avoid giving him discards of his weak suits. With a long trump suit, it is often advantageous to lead it through the player, but seldom right to lead it up to him. In Solos, the adversaries should lead Aces and winning cards, and change suits frequently. If you are playing against a Grand, and have two trumps, one of them the best, lead it, and then play your long suit; but if you have the two smallest trumps, lead the long suit first, and force with it every time you get in. The partners should always scheme to protect each other’s Tens by keeping the Aces of plain suits. For this reason it is very bad play to fatten with the Ace of a suit of which you have not the Ten, or to play an Ace third hand when there are only small cards in the trick, and the Ten of the suit has not been played and you do not hold it. If the player is void of a suit, continue leading it, no matter what you hold in it. This will either weaken his trumps, or, if he is between you, will give your partner discards. If the player leads a Wenzel, it is usually best to cover it if you can; but do not play the club Jack on the diamond Jack unless you want the lead very badly. When the single player does not lead trumps, but plays his Aces and Tens, the Germans call it “auf die DÖrfer gehen;” that is, getting to the villages, or getting home; equivalent to our expression, “getting out of the woods,” or “getting in out of the rain.” When the single player runs for home in this way, it is usually best to lead trumps through him at the first opportunity. In playing against a Nullo, the great point is to give your partner discards. If you find that the player’s long suit is yours also, continue it until your partner has discarded an entire suit if possible. If you then have the small card of the discarded suit, you may defeat the Nullo at once. Fattening. The Germans call this Wimmeln, or “swarming” the points together in one trick. It is always advisable to get rid of Tens in this way, or Aces of suits in which you hold both Ace and Ten; but it is bad play to fatten with the Ace of a suit of which you have not the Ten, unless the trick wins the game from the player, or saves a very probable schneider. The following Illustrative Hands will give the student a very good idea of the manner in which the various forms of the game are played, showing the difference in the play of a TournÉ, Solo, and Grand. A TOURNÉ. A, Vorhand, has refused ten with the following cards, Hinterhand having passed without a bid:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? A concludes to play a TournÉ, and turns the heart ? Q, finding the ? King in the Skat. He lays out the ? 10 and ? 9 in the Skat, and expects to make 12 points; a heart TournÉ, with one Matadore. The play is given in the margin. A is the player, and is also Vorhand, with the lead for the first trick. Hearts are trumps. A TOURNÉ
The manner in which A exhausts the trumps, and makes both his Ace and King of diamonds, should be carefully studied. At trick 8, if he put on the ace of clubs, B might have the 8, and he would lose both his King and the Queen on the Ten, giving him only 60 points. It must be remembered that A knows every card out against him, because he has seen the skat cards. A wins his 12 points; a heart TournÉ with one. A SOLO. Vorhand has refused a bid of 18, and announces spade Solo with the following cards:— He has the lead for the first trick, and of course begins with the trumps. The play is given in the margin. C wins the first trick, and leads his long suit through the player. In the last three tricks A coaxes B to win the Ten of trumps; but if B does so he gives up the advantage of his tenace over the player, which is now the only chance to defeat him. B knows that if he wins the Ten of trumps, B and C can make only 59 points, because A will save his trump Ace. A, having failed to reach 61, loses a spade Solo without one; twice 11, or 22 points, which was the game he must have won to be as good as the offer of 18 which he refused. A GRAND. B bids; both Vorhand and Hinterhand pass, and B announces a Grand, with the following cards:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? The play is given in the margin. In a Grand the four Jacks are the only trumps. A has the first play, and as he leads through the player, he begins with his long suit, of which he knows that the Ace alone is out, and it may be in the skat. If the player has the Ace, C will probably trump it. If the player has not the Ace, it is just possible that he will not trump the Ten. C, leading up to the player, opens his short weak suit. At trick 3, C knows that A must have the Ten of hearts, or he would not fatten with the Ace. As this shows that A can stop the heart suit, C guards the spades and lets all his hearts go. B loses a very strong Grand, which must have been successful if A GRAND.
Text Books. Foster’s Skat Manual, 1906. Eichhorn’s American Skat, 1898. Lehrbuch des Skatspiels, by K. Buhle. 1891. Deutsche Skatordnung, by K. Buhle. 1888. Scatspiel. (Anon.) Von Posert, Quedlinburg. 1879. EncyclopÆdia der Spiele, by Fr. Anton. 1889. Skat, by F. Tschientschy. 1888. Skat, by L.V. Diehl. 1891. Skat, by E.E. Lemcke. 1887. All but the first two on the list treat of the old game, bidding by suits, and making no mention of Guckis; but some of them, especially Buhle’s, contain some very fine examples of good play. The first two on the list and the last two are in English. All the others are in German. AMERICAN SKAT.In this variation, now so largely played, the highest bidder always sees the skat before announcing his game. Although a gucki, it need not be a grand, but may be solo or nullo if he likes. If he wins the game he announces the scores as usual; but if he loses he always loses double. He may announce schneider or schwarz after discarding for the skat. If he makes an announced schneider, it doubles the value of his game, instead of simply adding a multiplier. An announced schwarz trebles it. For example: Spade solo with 1, schneider announced. His game is 1 for game, 1 for schneider, without 1, 3 × 11 = 33, doubled for announcing schneider, 66. If lost, it costs 132. If he makes schwarz after announcing schneider, it adds one multiplier, 77. The smallest possible game is a diamond with or without 1, worth 18; 36 if lost. The largest game possible to lose is a grand with four, schwarz announced, costing 1,008. THE LAWS OF SKAT.THE GAMES.1. The following are the unit values of the various games:— Frage shall not be allowed. TournÉe in diamonds 5, in hearts 6, in spades 7 and in clubs 8. Solo in diamonds 9, in hearts 10, in spades 11 and in clubs 12, Turned grand 12, gucki grand 16, solo grand 20 and open grand 24. Gucki nullo 15, open gucki nullo 30, solo nullo 20, open solo nullo 40, and revolution, if played, 60. Uno and duo, if played, shall be worth 20, or if played open 40. 2. When there are trumps, the unit value of the game shall be multiplied as follows: 1 for game; 2 for schneider; 3 for announcing schneider, or for making schwarz without having made any announcement; 4 for schwarz after having announced schneider; and 5 for announcing schwarz. To each of these multipliers shall be added one for each matadore, “with” or “without.” 3. In tournÉes, if the player says “passt-mir-nicht” to the first card and takes the second, he loses double if he loses his game. In guckis, whether grand or nullo, the player loses double if he loses his game. 4. The value of Ramsch shall be 20 points, to be charged to the player losing the game. If one player takes no trick, the loser shall be charged 30 points. If two players take no trick, the loser shall be charged 50 points. The winner of the last trick takes the skat cards. If there is a tie between two for high score, the winner of the last trick shall be the loser. If the last trick is taken by the low score, and the others are tied, the two high scores lose 20 points each. If all three are tied at 40 points each, there is no score. 5. In all games which are played “open,” the hand of the single player must be laid face up on the table before either adversary plays a card; but the adversaries shall not be allowed to consult, neither can they dictate to the player what cards he shall play. FORMATION OF TABLE.6. Any number from three to six may form a table, but there shall be only three active players in each deal, and they shall be known respectively as Vorhand, Mittelhand, and Hinterhand. Those who hold no cards shall share the fortunes of those opposed to the single player whose score is put down. 7. There shall be as many deals in each round as there are players at the table, and no person shall be allowed to withdraw from the game during a round unless the others consent to a substitute and such substitute be found. 8. Newcomers can enter the table only after the conclusion of a round and with the consent of the other players. The new candidate for play must take his seat so that he shall have the deal. 9. If seats are drawn for, the lowest skat card shall have the first choice. The next lowest shall sit on his left, and so on. In cutting, the cards and suits rank as in play. The one drawing the lowest card shall deal the first hand, and the score shall be kept by the player on his right. 10. The game shall come to an end only at the conclusion of a round, and any player wishing to stop must give notice before the beginning of a round. CARDS.11. There are thirty-two cards in the pack, the rank and value of which are as follows: Jack 2; ace 11; ten 10; king 4; queen 3; the nine, eight and seven having no counting value. 12. The suits shall always outrank one another in the same order; clubs, spades, hearts and diamonds. The four jacks, or Wenzels, which are always the four best trumps, shall outrank one another in the same order. 13. In Nullo, the cards rank: A K Q J 10 9 8 7, and the suits and jacks are all of equal rank. DEALING.14. When four or more play at the same table, the dealer takes no cards, but gives cards to the two sitting immediately on his left and to the one next him on his right. 15. When only three play, Hinterhand shall deal the cards. 16. The deal passes in regular order to the left. 17. After being thoroughly shuffled, the pack must be presented to the pone (the player sitting on the dealer’s right) to be cut, and at least three cards must be left in each packet. Any player may demand a right to shuffle the cards before they are dealt, but the dealer shall have the last shuffle before presenting the cards to be cut. If any card is exposed in cutting, there must be a new cut. 18. The dealer shall give each active player cards, three at a time for the first round, face down, beginning on his left. He shall then lay aside, face down, two cards for the skat. Each player shall then receive four cards at a time for the second round, and finally three cards at a time for the last round. 19. If any card is found faced in the pack, or if the pack be proved incorrect or imperfect, there must be a new deal. An imperfect pack is one in which there are duplicate or missing cards, or cards so torn or marked that they can be identified by the backs. 20. Should a player deal out of his turn, the deal must stand if it is complete; otherwise there must be a new deal by the right dealer. When the deal stands, the next deal must be by the player who should have dealt, and subsequent deals must be so arranged that there shall be the right number to each round. A player dealing out of turn may be penalized 10 points. ERRORS IN DEALING.21. There are no misdeals. No matter what happens, the same dealer must deal again if it was his proper turn to deal. 22. If a card is exposed by the dealer during the deal, there must be a new deal; or if the cards of the players become confused, so that the dealer cannot separate them. 23. If the dealer gives too many or too few cards to any player, or neglects to lay out the skat cards in their proper turn, or does not give the right number of cards in each round, or gives three to one player and four to another, or fails to present the pack to be cut, there must be a new deal, and the dealer is charged 10 points for the error. THE SKAT CARDS.24. Any active player taking up or seeing either or both the skat cards when he is not entitled to do so shall be debarred from bidding that deal. If any but an active player look at either of the skat cards, 10 points shall be deducted from his score. 25. If any Kiebitz (an onlooker not belonging to the table) looks at either of the skat cards, he may be called upon to pay the value of the game. 26. If an active player look at the skat cards during the play, he not having laid out those cards from his own hand, his game is lost if he is the single player. If he is opposed to the player, the player’s game is won, but it may be played out to see if he can make schneider or schwarz. 27. Should an active player take one or both the skat cards into his hand by mistake, before the bidding begins, the dealer shall draw from his hand, face down, enough cards to reduce his hand to ten, and the player in fault shall be charged 25 points penalty, and be debarred from bidding for that deal. If, in three-hand, the player in fault is the dealer, Vorhand shall draw. 28. Should the successful bidder take both the skat cards into his hand together, or pick them up together, he shall be obliged to play a Gucki Grand, unless he has announced to play Nullo. Should he put the first card into his hand without showing it, he shall be obliged to turn up the second card and play Passt-mir-nicht. 29. The player may turn up either of the skat cards; but should he expose both he must play the suit of higher value. 30. Should he turn a jack, he may either play in suit or announce a turned Grand. 31. A player turning up a seven cannot announce a Nullo unless it has been previously agreed to play turned Nullos, which are worth 10 points. 32. The player who takes the skat cards must lay out two cards in their place before a card is led. Should he neglect to lay out for the skat before he plays to the first trick; or should he lay out more or less than two cards, and not discover the error until the first trick has been turned and quitted, he shall lose his game. BIDDING.33. All bidding shall be by numbers representing the value of some possible game, and the lowest bid allowed shall be 10. 34. Mittelhand must bid to Vorhand, and Vorhand must either undertake as good a game as that offered him, or pass. If Vorhand passes, Hinterhand bids to Mittelhand, and Mittelhand must either undertake as good a game as that offered, or pass. If Mittelhand passes, when bidding to Vorhand, Hinterhand must bid to Vorhand: but Hinterhand is not allowed to say anything until either Mittelhand or Vorhand has passed. 35. Any figure once named cannot be recalled. A player having once passed, cannot come into the bidding again. 36. The survivor of the bidding shall be known as the Player, and shall have the privilege of naming the game to be played; the two other active players being his adversaries. 37. If no bid is made, and Vorhand will not undertake to play any game against the two others, they must play Ramsch. ANNOUNCEMENTS.38. The player, if he does not use the skat cards, may announce any suit for the trump, or he may play a Grand or Nullo. 39. If he wishes to announce schneider or schwarz, he must do so when he names the game to be played, and before a card is led. All Open Grands are compulsory “schwarz announced.” 40. The manner of taking up the skat cards, when the player uses them, is sufficient announcement for a TournÉe, Passt-mir-nicht, or Guckser; but a Gucki Nullo must be announced before the skat cards are touched, and open Gucki Nullo must be announced before the skat cards are seen. 41. The player is not allowed to announce either schneider or schwarz in any game in which he uses the skat cards. 42. The adversaries cannot announce schneider or schwarz under any circumstances. 43. No player but Vorhand can announce Ramsch, and then only when no bid has been made. PLAYING.44. In TournÉe, but not in Solo, Grand, or Nullo, the player may, in order to avoid the possibility of being made schneider, abandon his game as lost before playing to the second trick. The adversaries are then bound to score it as a “game” lost, even if they could have made the player schneider. 45. No matter who is the single player, Vorhand shall always lead for the first trick. The winner of one trick leads for the next, and so on, and each player in turn must follow suit if he can. 46. If, during the play of the hand, any player is found to have a wrong number of cards, the others having their right number, only those who have their right number can win the game. If it is the player who has a wrong number, his game is lost. If it is one of his adversaries, the player’s game is won. 47. If the single player leads out of turn, the cards must be taken back if the trick is not complete and the adversary who has not played demands it. If both adversaries have played to the false lead, the trick stands. If an adversary has played to his false lead, the player cannot take it back unless the other adversary permit it. 48. If an adversary of the player leads out of turn, and the player calls attention to it, the player may immediately claim his game as won and abandon the hand; or he may insist that the play proceed with a view to making the adversaries schneider or schwarz. Whether he proceeds or not his game is won, and he may either let the false lead stand, or insist on a lead from the proper hand. 49. If, during the progress of the hand, the player lays his cards on the table, face up, and announces that he has won his game by reaching 61 or 91, whichever may be necessary to make good his bid, and it is proved that he is mistaken, he loses his game, even if he could have taken up his cards again and won it. 50. If an adversary lays his cards on the table, face up, and claims to have already defeated the player’s game, all that adversary’s cards shall be taken by the player and counted with the tricks already taken in by the player. If the adversary be found to be in error, the player shall score his game as won, even if he would have lost it had it been continued. 51. If the single player gives up his game as lost, and lays his cards on the table, the adversaries shall take all such cards and add them to their own, and count their cards to see if they have also made the player schneider. THE REVOKE.52. Should the single player revoke, and not discover the error before the trick is turned and quitted, he loses his game. If he discovers the error and corrects it in time, there is no penalty; but any adversary who plays after him may amend his play. 53. If either adversary of the player revokes, the player may claim his game as won; but he may insist on playing the hand out to see if he can make schneider or schwarz. Even if the single player has overbid his hand, he wins his game if either adversary revokes. LOOKING BACK.54. Any active player may see the last trick turned and quitted, provided no card has been led for the next trick. Should a player look back at any other trick, or count his cards, he loses the game; but either of the others may insist on playing on to see if they can make schneider. 55. If an adversary of the player tell his partner how many points they have taken in, or ask him to fatten a trick which is his, or call attention in any way to the fact that the partner’s play should be thus or so, the single player may at once claim his game as won, and abandon his hand. SCORING.56. The single player wins his game if he reaches 61 points. He wins schneider if he makes 91. He wins schwarz if he gets every trick. 57. If the adversaries reach 30, they are out of schneider. If they reach 60, they defeat the player. If they get to 90, they make him schneider; and if they win every trick they make him schwarz. 58. The value of the game having been calculated according to Law No. 2, the amount won or lost shall be entered on the score pad under the name of the individual player, and each following item shall be added to or deducted from the previous total, so that the last entry shall at all times show the exact state of the player’s score. 59. At the end of the sitting each player wins from or loses to each of the others at the table the full amount of his score. 60. In every case in which a player loses his game, he loses what he would have won if he had been successful, regardless of the amount he may have bid; but, 61. If the player fails to win a game equal to the amount he has bid, he loses the value of the next higher game which would have made his bid good; because in no case can a player lose less than he bid, and in every case must he lose some multiple of the game which he declared to play. FROG.This is a very popular game in Mexico, and seems to be an elementary form of Skat, which it resembles in many ways. Even the name may be a corruption of the simple game in Skat, which is called “frage.” The chief differences are that there are four cards added to the pack for frog, and that the players win or lose according to the number of points they get above or below 61, instead of computing the value of the game by matadores. Players. Three, four, or five can play; but only three are active in each deal. If four play, the dealer takes no cards. If five play, he gives cards to the two on his left and one on his right. Cards. There are thirty-six cards in the pack, which rank: A 10 K Q J 9 8 7 6. Each Ace is worth 11, Tens are worth 10, Kings 4, Queens 3, and Jacks 2. This gives us 120 points in the pack, and the object is to get 61 or more. Dealing. Any one can deal the first hand, after which the deal passes to the left. Three cards are given to each player the first round, then three for the widow, and then two rounds of four cards each to the players, so that there are three hands of eleven cards each, and three in the widow. THE GAMES. Each player in turn, beginning on the dealer’s left, can offer to play one of three games, and the highest offer must be accepted. A player cannot increase his own bid unless he is overbid. The highest bidder becomes the single player, opposed to the two others. Frog. In this, hearts must be trumps. The single player turns the widow face up to show what it contained, and then takes the three cards into his hand. He must then discard to reduce his playing hand to eleven cards again. Any points in the cards he lays away will count for him at the end of the play. The player on the dealer’s left always leads for the first trick, any card he pleases. The others must follow suit if they can, but they are not obliged to head the trick. If a player cannot follow suit, he must trump, and if the third player cannot follow suit either, he must play a trump, but he is not obliged to over-trump unless he likes. The eleven tricks played, each side turns over the cards taken in and counts the points. For every point the single player gets over 60 he must be paid a counter by each of the others who held cards. But if he does not get 60, he must pay each of the others at the table, including those who held no cards, if any, a counter for every point his adversaries get over 60. Chico outbids Frog. The player offering this game can name any suit for the trump except hearts, but he must not touch the widow, although the points in it will count for him at the end. Each point under or over 60 is worth two counters in Chico. Grand outbids Chico, and is the highest bid possible. Hearts must be trumps, and the player offering this game must not touch the widow until the play is finished. Every point under or over 60 in a Grand is worth four counters. The bidder must play the game he names. He cannot bid Frog and play Chico, or bid Chico and play Grand. The settling up of the scores at the end, if the payments are not made at once in counters, is the same as in Skat. CRIBBAGE.Cribbage is not only one of the oldest of the games upon the cards, but enjoys the distinction of being quite unlike any other game, both in the manner of playing it, and in the system of reckoning the points. It is also peculiar from the fact that it is one of the very few really good games which require no effort of the memory; judgment and finesse being the qualities chiefly requisite for success. There are two principal varieties of the game; Five and Six-card Cribbage; and these again are divided according to the number of players. The old writers agree in speaking of the five-card game as the more scientific; but the modern verdict is in favour of the six-card game, which is certainly the more common and popular. The skill in Five-card Cribbage is limited to laying out for the crib and securing the “go”; but in Six-card Cribbage, while the scientific principles applicable to the crib remain the same as in the five-card game, there is abundant room for the display of skill all through, the hand being as important as the crib, and the play sometimes more important than either. The six-card game will be first described. CARDS. Cribbage is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, which have no rank except the order of their sequence; K Q J 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 A, the Ace being always the lowest, either in cutting or in play. The cards have also a counting or pip value, the three court cards, K Q J, and the 10 being worth ten points each. All other cards, including the Ace, retain their face value. There are no trumps, and the four suits are therefore equal in value at all times. MARKERS. The game is 61 points, and is scored or “pegged” on a cribbage board, which has a double row of 30 holes on each side, and a game-hole at each end. The players are each provided with two pegs, and they score the points as they accrue by advancing their pegs from left to right according to the number of points they make. For instance: One player makes 6 When a player reaches the extreme right of the board, 30 points, he crosses over to the inner row of holes, and goes down from right to left. On reaching the end of the second row he has still one more to go to get into the game-hole, which is in the middle of the board. When one player reaches his game-hole before the other turns the corner, it is called a lurch, and counts two games. The pegs are so often lose or mislaid that it is much more convenient to use a pull-up cribbage board, in which every hole is provided with its own peg, which may be raised to indicate the count. The back pegs can be either left standing or pushed down again. A pull-up cribbage board The board is always placed midway between the players. If three persons play, a triangular board is necessary. This is provided with three sets of holes and three game holes. When a cribbage board is not at hand, the game may be kept by ruling a sheet of paper into ten divisions, and marking them with the figures 1 to 0 on each side:
Each player being provided with two coins, one silver and one copper, (or different sizes,) the copper coin can be advanced from point to point to count units, and the silver coin will mark the tens. PLAYERS. Cribbage is distinctly a game for two players, although three may play, each for himself, or four, two being partners against the other two. When two play, one is known as the dealer, and the other as the non-dealer, or the pone. CUTTING. The players cut for the choice of seats, and for the first deal. The lowest cut has the choice, and deals the first hand. The Ace is low. If a player exposes more than one card he must cut again. Ties are also decided by cutting again. STAKES. Cribbage is played for so much a game, lurches counting double. Players may either settle at the end of each game, or score on a sheet of paper. In the pull-up cribbage boards there are nine extra pegs for counting games won. These are placed in a line with the player’s game hole at each end. DEALING. The cards are shuffled and presented to the pone to be cut, and he must leave at least six cards in each packet. Six cards are dealt to each player, one at a time in rotation, beginning with the player on the dealer’s left if there are more than two. No trump is turned, and the remainder of the pack is placed face downward at the end of the cribbage board on the dealer’s left. Irregularities. It is a misdeal if any card is found faced in the pack, or if the pack is found to be imperfect, and there must be a fresh deal by the same dealer. Any previous cuts or scores made with the imperfect pack stand good. A player dealing out of turn may be stopped before the non-dealer lifts his cards from the table. The penalty for dealing out of turn is two points, if the error is detected in time; otherwise the deal stands good. If the dealer neglects to have the pack cut, exposes a card in dealing, gives too many or too few cards to any player, deals a card incorrectly, and fails to remedy the error before dealing another, or exposes one of his adversary’s cards, the non-dealer scores two points by way of penalty. He also has the option of demanding a fresh deal by the same dealer, or of letting the deal stand. If the error is simply an irregularity in the manner of dealing, or an exposed card, the pone must decide without looking at his cards. If either player has too many or too few cards, the pone may look at the hand dealt him before deciding whether or not to have a fresh deal; but if it is the pone himself that has too many or too few cards, he must discover and announce the error before lifting his cards from the table, or he will not be entitled to the option of letting the deal stand. If the pone has too many cards he may return the surplus to the top of the pack, without showing or naming them. If the dealer has too many, the pone may draw from his hand face downward, returning the surplus to the top of the pack; but the pone may not look at the cards so drawn unless the dealer has seen them. If there are too few cards, and the pone elects to have the deal stand, the deficiency must be supplied from the top of the pack. THE CRIB. The cards dealt, each player takes up his six cards and examines them with a view to laying out two cards, face downward, for the crib; leaving himself four cards with which to play. The four cards which form the crib, two from each hand, always belong to the dealer, and it is usual for each player, in discarding for the crib, to slip his two cards under the end of the cribbage board opposite to that occupied by the remainder of the pack. Cards once laid out for the crib, and the hand removed from them, cannot be taken up again. A penalty of two points may be scored by the adversary for each card so taken up again, whether it is returned to the player’s hand or not. If either player confuses his cards in any manner with those of the crib, his adversary scores two points, and may also claim a fresh deal. If it is not discovered until he comes to lay out for the crib, that a player has too many cards, the same rules apply that are given for misdealing; but if he has too few cards there is no remedy, as he has lifted his hand. He must lay out two cards for the crib and play with what remain, his adversary scoring two points penalty at the same time. THE STARTER. Both players having discarded for the crib, the non-dealer cuts the remainder of the pack, and the dealer lifts the top card from the portion left on the table, turning it face up. The two portions being again united, the turned card is placed face up on the pack, and is known as the starter, because it forms the starting-point in the count for every hand and crib. At least four cards must be left in each packet in cutting for the starter. If the starter is found face up, there must be a new deal. If the starter is a Jack, the dealer immediately pegs two points for his heels. If he does not peg these two holes before he plays a card the score is lost. If the Jack of the same suit as the starter is found in the hand or crib of any player, it is called his nobs, and when the hand is reckoned up after the play is over, one point may be scored for it. If the dealer exposes more than one card after the pack has been properly cut, his adversary may choose which of the exposed cards shall be the starter. In order to understand the motives which govern the players in discarding, and the influences which the starter has upon the value of the hands and crib, it will be necessary to describe the objects of the game, before giving the method of play. OBJECTS OF THE GAME. The chief object in Cribbage is to form and to preserve various counting combinations. As these combinations occur in the course of play, or are shown in the hand or crib after the play is over, their value in points is pegged on the cribbage board, and the player who first pegs a There are five principal varieties of these counting combinations: Pairs, Triplets, Fours, Sequences, and Fifteens; besides some minor counts which will be spoken of in their proper place. The various counting combinations in Cribbage may arise in two ways. They may be formed by combining the cards played by one person with those played by his adversary; or they may be found in the individual hand or crib after the play is over. In the latter case the starter is considered as part of each hand and crib, increasing each of them to five available counting cards. Pairs. A pair is any two cards of the same denomination, such as two Fives or two Queens, and its counting value is always the same, 2 points. Triplets, usually called Pairs Royal, Proils, or Prials, are any three cards of the same denomination, such as three Nines. Their value is the number of separate pairs that can be formed with the three cards, which is three, and the combination is therefore always worth 6 points. The different pairs that can be formed with three Nines, for instance, would be as follows:— ?? ?? " ?? ?? " ?? ?? Fours, sometimes called Double Pairs Royal, or Deproils, are any four cards of the same denomination, such as four Fours, and their counting value is the number of separate pairs that can be formed with the four cards, which is six. The combination is therefore always worth 12 points. The different combinations of four cards, arranged in pairs, is as follows:— ?? ?? " ?? ?? " ?? ?? " ?? ?? " ?? ?? " ?? ?? Whether the foregoing combinations are formed during the play of the hand, or found in the hand or crib after the play is over, their counting value is exactly the same. Sequences. Any three or more cards, following one another in numerical order, will form a sequence. A sequence may also run into the court cards, such as 9 10 J, 10 J Q, or J Q K; but Q K A is not a sequence in Cribbage. The counting value of a The method of computing the value of double and treble sequences should be thoroughly understood, in order that such combinations may be counted at sight. A few examples will show that each combination belongs to a certain class, to which the same counting value is always attached. These classes are distinguished by the number of duplicates of the sequence cards. ?? ?? ?? ?? If you hold three cards which form a sequence, and have also a duplicate of any one of them, no matter which, it is evident that by substituting the card of equal value you can form another sequence. Such combinations are therefore always worth 8 points, 6 for the double run, as it is called, and 2 for the pair, no matter what the cards are that form the combination. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? If the five cards in the hand and starter together contain a run of three with two duplicates, it is evident that three separate sequences can be formed by using each of the duplicates alternately. Such combinations are always worth 15 points; 9 for the triple run of three, and 6 for the pair royal. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? If the duplicates are of two different cards, no matter which, it will be found that four different sequences of three cards each can be formed by changing the Aces and Threes alternately. Such combinations are therefore always worth 16 points: four runs of three, worth 12, and 4 points for the two separate pairs. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? If the five cards contain one sequence of four, and one duplicate, the combination will always be worth 10 points; 8 for the double run of four, and 2 for the pair. The foregoing should be thoroughly familiar to every player, so that he may know the exact value of the combination the moment he sees the length of the sequence and the number of duplicates. Two-card Fifteens. Any combination of two or more cards, the total face value of which is exactly 15, is called fifteen-two, ?? ?? ?? It is obvious that if there is in the hand or the starter a duplicate of either of the cards forming the fifteen, no matter which, another fifteen can be formed, and the combination will therefore always be worth 6 points; 4 for the two fifteens, and 2 for the pair. It must not be forgotten that in the case of tenth cards, as they are called, the duplicates may not form pairs, as for instance with K J 5. The fifteen is duplicated, but there is no pair. ?? ?? ?? ?? If there are two duplicates of either card, the combination will always be worth 12 points; 6 for the three fifteens, and 6 more for the pair royal. If the duplicates are of two different cards, the combination is still worth 12, because four different fifteens can be formed by combining each Nine with each Six separately, and there are two single pairs. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? " ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? The same is true of any combinations of two-card fifteens in which all five cards are of value; they are both of the same pegging value, 20 points. If there are three duplicates of one card in the original fifteen, the four separate fifteens will be worth 8, and the double pair royal 12. If there are two duplicates of one card, and one of the other, six separate fifteens can be formed by combining each Nine with each Six, pegging 12; and the pair royal of one card with the single pair of the other will add 8 more. Three-card Fifteens may be formed in fifteen different ways, ranging from 10 4 A, to 5 5 5. If you hold any of these combinations, and have a fourth card which is a duplicate of any of the three forming the fifteen, the value of the combination will ?? ?? ?? ?? If you have an extra tenth card, you can replace the other tenth card once only, and the total value of the combination is therefore 6 points, which is expressed by the formula; “Fifteen-two, fifteen-four, and a pair.” ?? ?? ?? ?? If your combination was 9 3 3, and you had another 9, the same thing would be true; but if your duplicate is a Three, there are two cards which can be replaced, and the combination is therefore worth 12; 6 for the three fifteens, and 6 more for the pair royal. ?? ?? ?? ?? If your combination is one in which all three cards can be replaced with the duplicate, making three extra fifteens, it must be worth 20 altogether; 8 for the four fifteens, and 12 for the double pair royal. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? If you have two duplicates of any one card in the original combination, there are only two extra fifteens, and the combination will be worth 12; 6 for the three fifteens, and 6 more for the pair royal. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? If you have duplicates of two different cards you can form four fifteens; because you can replace the Seven first, and then the Six, and then put the first Seven back again with the new Six. This will make the combination of the same value as if you had three duplicates of one card, 12 points; 8 for the four fifteens, and 4 for the two single pairs. Combinations. The beginner’s greatest difficulty is in counting hands which contain all three varieties of counts; pairs, sequences, and fifteens. But if he is familiar with the values of the various combinations taken separately, he will have no difficulty in computing them when they are found together. Some regular order should be observed in going over the hands, so that nothing shall be forgotten. The majority of players begin with the fifteens, as they are more liable to be overlooked, and then reckon the value of the runs and pairs together. Take the following examples:—
No. 1 contains a fifteen in addition to the three runs of three and the pair royal, and is therefore worth 17 altogether. Nos. 2 and 3 each contain three fifteens; but No. 2 is worth 21 points on account of the three runs of three and the pair royal, while No. 3 is worth only 16; a double run of four and a single pair. No. 4 contains four fifteens in addition to the four runs of three and two single pairs, and is therefore worth 24 points. The best combination that can be held in hand or crib is three Fives and a Jack, with the Five of the same suit as the Jack for a starter. We have already seen that the four Fives by themselves are worth 20, to which we must add the four extra fifteens made by combining the Jack with each Five separately, and one more point for his nobs, 29 altogether. If the Jack was the starter, the combination would be worth 30 to the dealer, but his heels would have to be counted before a card was played. Flushes. In addition to the foregoing combinations, if all four cards in the hand are of the same suit the player can peg four points for the flush; if the starter is also the same suit, five points. A flush does not count in the crib unless the starter is the same suit, and then it counts five points. Flushes are never made in play. Laying Out for the Crib. With this knowledge of the objects of game, and the various counting combinations, it will be seen that each player should keep the cards which count the most for him, or which are most likely to form good combinations with different starters. Suppose the non-dealer holds these cards:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? If he puts the two Eights in his adversary’s crib, he not only gives him two very good cards, which go to form a great many valuable combinations, but he leaves himself absolutely nothing but 2 points for a single fifteen, formed by the 9 and 6. It would be a little better, but still very bad play, for him to discard the 8 and 6, leaving himself a sequence of four cards and a fifteen, 6 points altogether. He might do a little better by discarding the 10 and 8, leaving himself a run of four, and two fifteens, 8 points altogether. If he discards either the 10 and 9, or the 10 and 6, he will leave himself a double run of three, a pair, and two fifteens, 12 altogether. Of these two discards, that of the 10 and 6 is better than the 10 and 9, because the 10 and 9 might help to form a sequence in the adversary’s crib, whereas the 10 and 6 are so far apart that they are very unlikely to be of any use. Cards which are likely to form parts of sequences are called close cards, and those which are too widely separated to do so are called wide cards. METHOD OF PLAYING. The crib laid out and the starter cut, the pone begins by playing any card he pleases. The card he selects he lays face upward on the table on his own side of the cribbage board, and at the same time announces its pip value; two, five, or ten, whatever it may be. It is then the dealer’s turn to play a card from his hand, which is also laid face upward on the table, but on the dealer’s side of the cribbage board. Instead of announcing the pip value of this second card, the dealer calls out the total value of the two cards taken together. The pone then lays another card on the table face upward and on the top of the first, which is not turned face down, and at the same time announces the total pip value of the three cards so far played; the dealer plays again, and so on. If at any time the total pip value of the cards played is exactly 15 or 31, the one who plays the card that brings it to that number pegs two points for it at once. If any counting combination, such as a pair, pair royal, or sequence, is formed by the cards played, its value is pegged by the person that plays the card which completes the combination; but neither player is allowed to play a card which will make the total pip value of the cards played pass 31. The method of forming and pegging these various combinations in play will be better understood if they are described separately. A card once played cannot be taken up again, unless it passes 31. Pairs. If the first card played by the pone should be a 6, and the dealer had a 6 also, the latter would probably play it, announcing: “Twelve, with a pair,” and pegging two holes. If the pone held a third six he would immediately play it, announcing: “Eighteen, with a pair royal,” and would peg six holes for the three pairs which can be formed with the three Sixes, although he did not hold all of them. If the dealer was fortunate enough to hold the fourth Six he might rejoin with: “Twenty-four, with a double-pair-royal.” This would entitle him to peg twelve more holes, although he had already pegged the single pair. Sequences. Suppose the first card played by the pone was a 4. The dealer plays a 2, announcing: “Six.” The pone plays a 3, announcing: “Nine, with a run of three,” and pegging three holes for the sequence formed in play. The dealer plays an Ace; “Ten, with a run of four,” and pegs four holes for the sequence of four cards made in play, all of which are face upward on the table, although he held only two of them. Fifteens. The pone then plays a 5, which, added to the 10 just announced by the dealer, makes 15, with a run of five cards; seven holes to peg altogether. (This is quite independent of the sequence previously scored, just as the double pair royal was of the previous single pair.) The dealer now plays a deuce, and announces seventeen. This card does not form any sequence with those that have gone immediately before it, because if the order of play is retraced it will be found that another deuce is encountered before we reach the Four. This illustrates the rule already given, that sequences formed in play must always be single, and cannot be reckoned with substitute cards, like pairs royal. If they could, the last player in this case might claim a double run of five and a pair. The pone now plays another 4, which forms the sequence afresh if we go back to the third card played. He announces: “Twenty-one, with a run of five,” and pegs five holes more. The dealer plays a 3, also claiming a run of five, which he pegs, and as that is the last card to be played in that hand he also pegs one hole for last card. The total score of the dealer is now 10 points, and that of the pone is 15. The cards they held, and the order in which they were played is as follows:—
SHOWING. In order to illustrate the manner of counting the hands, which is called showing, let us suppose the starter to be a Queen, and that the pone discarded an Ace and a Ten for the crib, the dealer laying out two Jacks. The non-dealer always has the first show, as an offset to the advantage of the dealer’s crib. The pone therefore shows his hand, which, combined with the starter, is as follows:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? This is worth 10 holes; the run of three with one duplicate is always worth 8, and the fifteen formed by the starter and the Five counts 2 more. This puts the pone’s total score to 25 points. The dealer then counts, showing his hand first. This, with the starter, is as follows:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? This is worth 14 holes. In addition to the run of three with one duplicate, three fifteens can be formed by combining the starter and a Three with each of the deuces, and then taking the starter and the Ace with both the deuces together. This puts the dealer’s total score to 24, with the crib still to count. This is as follows, with the starter:— ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? This is worth 9 holes; 8 for the run of three with one duplicate, and 1 for his nobs. There are no fifteens, and the Ace is worthless. This puts the dealer three holes round the corner, and on the homestretch for the game hole. The deal now passes to the player that was the pone, and the next crib will belong to him. Beginners often experience difficulty in deciding when a run has been made in play, and when it has not. If there is any dispute about it, the cards should be placed as shown in these diagrams, and if any duplicate is encountered before the run is complete, it cannot be pegged. Take the following examples:— Cards alternate: pone/dealer. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? There is no sequence, because we encounter a duplicate deuce before we reach the Five. If the last player had a Five to play now, it would make a run of five cards, stopping at the deuce of hearts. Take the following:— Cards alternate: pone/dealer. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? There is no sequence; but if the pone had played his Five for his second card, the dealer would have pegged two runs; one of four, and one of six, besides the last card; the pone making one run of five and a pair, as follows:— Cards alternate: pone/dealer. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? It will be seen that if the dealer had not played his Ace and kept his Six at the last, the pone would have pegged eleven holes on him, instead of seven. Go, and Thirty-one. When a person has no card which he can play without making the total pip value of all the cards played more than 31, he must say to his adversary: “Go.” That is, “Go on and play, for I cannot.” If his adversary has no cards left, the player must say “go” to himself. When a person is told to go, he must play as many cards as he can without passing 31. If he reaches 31 exactly, he scores two points; if he cannot quite reach it, he scores one point for the go. The principle is that if 31 cannot be made by either player, the one playing the card that brought the count nearest to it shall count one for it, even if he has told himself to go. There is no count for “last card” if it makes 31. But the “last card” counts if it makes 15. If a player tells another to go when he can still play himself, he forfeits two points, and his adversary may, if he chooses, take back the cards to the point where the error occurred and have them played over again. The same penalty can be enforced against a player who pegs for a go when he can still play. Suppose the first card played is a Jack. The dealer, holding two Nines, an Eight, and a Five, plays the Five, and pegs 2 for the fifteen. The pone plays a Nine, announcing the total as twenty-four. The dealer cannot pair this Nine, because it would run the count past 31, neither can he play the Eight, so he says, “Go.” The pone pegs the go without playing, which shows that he is also unable to play, having nothing so small as a Seven. Both then turn down the cards already played, and the one whose turn it is to play begins all over again with his remaining cards or card, announcing its face value, his adversary playing after him until their cards are exhausted or they reach another 31. To continue the foregoing example, let us suppose the dealer to play one of his Nines. The pone plays a Jack, and announces “Nineteen.” The dealer plays his remaining Nine, and calls “Twenty-eight.” The pone tells him to go, and he pegs one. These three cards are turned down. The pone then plays a Ten, and the dealer marks one for the last card. The hands and crib are then shown. If either player can reach exactly 31, he scores two points for it, whether he has been told to go or not. Suppose the pone begins with a Nine. The dealer plays a Six and pegs 2 for the fifteen. The pone pairs the Six, calls “Twenty-one,” and pegs 2 for the pair. The dealer with two Fives and a Four in his hand, plays the Four, and calls “Twenty-five,” hoping the pone has no small card, which will allow the dealer to make a run of three with one of his Fives if he is told to go. But the pone plays a Five, calling: “Thirty, with a run of three.” The dealer tells him to go, and he plays an Ace, pegging two holes for the 31. The cards are all turned down, and the pone having no cards, the dealer plays his two Fives, and pegs a pair and the last card. The pair counts in this case because the adversary has no cards to interfere with it. A run of three might be played and scored in the same way, because the score for combinations made in play are determined by the order in which the cards are played, irrespective of who plays them. Irregularities in Hands. If a player is found to have too many or too few cards, after he has laid out for the crib, his adversary pegs two points, and may also claim a fresh deal. If the deal is allowed to stand, superfluous cards must be drawn at random by the adversary, who may look at the card or cards so drawn before placing them in the pack. If either player is found to have too few cards after having laid out for the crib, he has no Irregular Cribs. If the superfluous card is found in the crib, and the non-dealer had the short hand, the dealer may reckon all the combinations he can make in the six-card crib; but if it was the dealer who had the short hand, the superfluous crib is void. If the crib contains a superfluous card, both the players having their right number, the non-dealer pegs two holes for the evident misdeal, and the crib is void. If both players have their right number, and the crib is short, it must be shown for what it is worth; but the non-dealer pegs two holes for the evident misdeal. Irregular Announcements. There is no penalty if a player announces a wrong number as the total of the cards played, provided he does not peg an erroneous fifteen or thirty-one. If the following player does not correct the announcement, but plays and adds to it, the error cannot be rectified. If any holes are pegged for an erroneous announcement, the adversary may demand that they be taken down again, and may add the number to his own score. Miscounting. If a player over-counts his hand, crib, or play, and pegs the points erroneously claimed, his adversary may call attention to the error, demand that the superfluous points be taken down again, and may add them to his own score as penalty. Should a player neglect to peg the full value of his hand, crib, or play, his adversary may add the neglected points to his own score, after pointing out the omission. Should a player be mistaken in exacting either of these penalties, he must not only take down what he pegged, but allow his adversary to peg the same number as penalty. None of these corrections can be claimed until the player in error has pegged and quitted the score; that is, removed his fingers from the front peg. The claim should always be prefaced by the word Muggins. If the error is one of omission in play, the adversary must play his own card before claiming muggins. If it is in the hand or crib, the adversary must wait until the points claimed are pegged and quitted. If there are no points claimed, he must wait until the cards are turned face down, thus acknowledging that there is apparently nothing to score. A player is not allowed to tell his adversary whether or not he has counted his hand or crib correctly, until it is pegged. Nineteen. As it is impossible to hold 19 in hand or crib, it is a common practice for a player, when he has nothing at all to score, to announce, “Nineteen.” The numbers twenty-seven, twenty-six and twenty-five are also impossible. Pegging. Neither player is allowed to touch the other’s pegs. If the score is erroneous, the player in fault must be called upon to remedy it himself. A player whose pegs are touched by his adversary can score two holes for penalty. If a player removes his adversary’s front peg, the latter may immediately claim the game. If a player displaces his own front peg, he must place it behind the other. If both players displace their front pegs, as by accident, they may agree to replace them where they believe them to have stood; but if they cannot agree they must call the game void. Pegging Out. In pegging during the play, the first man to reach his game hole wins, no matter what either may have in hand or crib. If neither can peg out in play, the non-dealer has the first show. If he cannot show out, the dealer proceeds to count his hand and then his crib. If he cannot show out there must be a new deal. CHEATING. The greatest advantage at Cribbage is to secure good starters, and for this purpose the greek adopts various methods of trimming and marking the cards so that he may secure a starter exactly suited to his hand. After trimming certain cards a trifle longer or shorter than others, the pack to be cut may be presented to the pone in such a manner that he will unconsciously lift them either by the ends or the sides, according to the wish of the dealer, and so uncover a starter exactly suited to the dealer’s hand or crib. When the sharper has the cut, he can of course uncover any card he pleases. With marked edges, the pone can cut down to a card of any desired denomination. Some audacious gamblers make it a rule to get a starter by simply removing the top card and turning up the next one. It is needless to say that the second card has been carefully pre-arranged. Any person who fingers the pack longer than necessary in cutting starters, or who cuts sometimes by the edge and sometimes by the side, will bear watching. Marked cards and second dealing are great weapons in a game where so much depends on a knowledge of the adversary’s hand, and on securing good counting cards for yourself. SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY. In the six-card game the hand is more valuable than the crib, because you know what it contains, whereas the crib is largely speculative. In the five-card game, in which there are only three cards in the hand and four in the crib, it is usual to sacrifice the hand very largely for the possibilities of the crib, because of the much larger scores that can be made with five cards, the starter and four in the crib. Baulking. In both games it is the duty of the pone to baulk the dealer’s crib as much as possible, by laying out cards which are very unlikely to be worth anything, either in making fifteens or in filling up sequences. Pairs it is impossible to provide against, and The Crib. In laying out for his own crib, the dealer should preserve his own hand as much as possible; but other things being equal, the best cards to lay out are pairs, close cards, and cards that form fives, such as Fours and Aces. If these elements can be combined, so much the better. An Eight and a Seven, for instance, are not only close cards, being only one pip apart, but form a fifteen. The same is true of a trey and deuce. Keeping. In selecting the hand to keep, much depends on the score. Early in the game you want a counting hand; near the end, especially if you have only four or five points to go, you want a pegging hand; that is, one with every card different, so that you can pair several cards, or make fifteens with almost anything that the pone may lead. In keeping a counting hand, much depends on whether it is good in itself, or needs a starter. In reckoning on the possibilities of the starter, it must never be forgotten that there are sixteen tenth cards in the pack, and that they are therefore the most probable starters of all. It is better to keep sequences open at both ends than those open in the middle. With two Sevens and two Eights, either a Six or a Nine will make your hand worth 24; but with two Eights and two Sixes, nothing but a Seven will improve your hand more than 4 points. Sequences are the best to keep, especially those of three cards with a duplicate. After them pairs royal are valuable, and next to them cards which will make a number of fives in various combinations, such as two Threes and two deuces. Leading. There are two systems of playing, known as playing off, and playing on, and they are selected according to the player’s position in the score. Long experience has shown that in six-card Cribbage the average expectation of the non-dealer for his hand and play is 12 points; and for the dealer, in hand, crib, and play, is 17. This being so, each player having had a deal, their scores should be about 29. If a player is 29 or more, he is said to be at home; and if he is seven or more points ahead of his adversary on even deals, he is said to be safe at home. When a player is safe at home, he should play off; that is, take no chances of scoring himself that might give his adversary a chance to make a still better score. This is usually found in the method of playing sequences. A player who avoids playing cards that might lead up to a run is said to play off. If he invites the run, hoping to make it longer himself, he is said to play on. When a Playing Off. In this it is best to play cards on which it is unlikely that your adversary can score. Lead Aces, Twos and Threes, which cannot be made into fifteens. Do not pair his cards unless you have a card which will make you a double pair royal, (without passing 31,) if he should make a pair royal on you. Do not play close cards which he may turn into sequences. Never play a card which will allow the adversary to make a double score, such as a pair and a fifteen, or a sequence and a fifteen at the same time. Such as the following are all bad plays: 9 on 3; 7 on A; 6 on 3, 4, or 5; 5 on 5; 4 on 7; 3 on 9; A on 7. All these expose you to the immediate rejoinder of a double count. Of course, if you have the card to make a pair royal in return, that is another matter, and is playing on, not playing off. Do not play a card which brings the pip count to 5 or 21 if you can help it; because any tenth card will enable your adversary to peg two holes. Be a little wary about pairing the first card played, unless you have a third of the same denomination. If you have a choice between a pair and a sequence, your decision will depend on whether you are playing off or on. If you are playing off, make the pair, and take no chances of long runs. Playing On. In this you play to give your adversary a count, hoping to make a better yourself. It is always advantageous to play one of a pair, and to begin with one end of a sequence. If he pairs your first card, you can reply with a pair royal. If he plays to make a sequence, you can sometimes hold him off until you get the score, and he will be unable to continue the run without passing 31. Play one of two cards that form a five, such as 3 and 2; 4 and A. If he plays a tenth card to it, you can peg fifteen. In playing on, you should make all the sequences possible, taking chances of your adversary’s being able to continue the run. If you think he is leading you on, you must be guided by the state of the score as to how much you can risk. Toward the end, you must reckon pretty closely how many points you can afford to risk your adversary’s making without putting him out. If you have enough in your hand to get out on the show, you should not attempt to make a single point in play. Pair nothing, for he might come out with a pair royal; make no runs, for he might extend them. But if you have not enough to show out, you must take every chance to peg the difference, because if you cannot get out in play and first show, the dealer has not only both hand and crib against you, but the first show on the next deal. In six-card Cribbage, the usual pegging for the play is FIVE-CARD CRIBBAGE.In this form of the game only five cards are dealt to each player, one at a time. Two of these are laid out for the crib, and the three remaining are used in play, exactly as in the six-card game. Three for Last. The non-dealer on the first hand of each game is allowed to peg three holes as a compensation for the advantage his adversary derives from having the first deal. Although the rules allow these three to be pegged at any time during the game, they should be put up immediately, in order to avoid disputes. There is no further play after a go is declared, or either player has reached 31. The score for 31 is two holes; and for the go, one hole. Great importance is attached to the score for the go at five-card Cribbage, because so little is made in play that every point counts. The Crib. This is the most important thing in the five-card game, and it is much more important to baulk your adversary’s crib than to preserve your own hand. The best baulking cards are a King with a 10, 9, 8, 7, 6 or A. Never lay out a Jack, nor two cards which form a five, nor any pair, nor any two close cards. In laying out for your own crib, Fives, Sevens and Eights are the best. Any pair, any two cards that make five or fifteen, and any close cards are also good. Keep pairs royal and runs in your hand, and do not forget that a flush of three counts in the hand; but the starter must agree to make a flush in the crib. Playing Off and On. The pegging in play is usually small; 2 for the dealer, and an average of 1½ for the non-dealer, hence the importance of the go. The average hand is a little less than 5, and the crib about 5. The player is at home if he has pegged 17 in two deals, his own and his adversary’s. He is safe at home if he is 7 ahead, or his adversary is 7 behind. In Five-card Cribbage, more than any other game, it is true that a game is never won until it is lost. Take the following example, in which the pone is 56 up, and the dealer has pegged
The pone leads a Seven, and afterwards pairs the dealer’s Six, pegging to 58. The dealer pegs 6 for the pair royal, and is told to go. This enables the dealer to make a double pair royal and 31, pegging fourteen holes more. (The last card does not count when a go or 31 is pegged). On the show the pone has only a pair, which puts him to 60, within one of the game hole. The dealer shows 12 in hand and 17 in crib, making him 54 up. In the next deal the player who wanted one could not peg, his adversary securing a fifteen and a go, and showing out with a pair and a fifteen, 61 up and game. THREE-HANDED CRIBBAGE.Five cards are dealt to each player, and then another, face down, for the foundation of the crib. Each player then lays out one card to make the dealer’s crib up to four. The starter is cut by the player on the dealer’s left, and the game proceeds as at six-card Cribbage, the eldest hand having the first show, the dealer the last. FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE.When four play, they cut for partners, choice of seats, and deal; the two lowest pairing against the two highest, and the lowest taking the first deal and crib. The game is usually 121 points up, or twice round the board, and only one player on each side keeps the score. Five cards are dealt to each player, one at a time, and one of these is discarded from each hand to form the crib, leaving four cards with which to play. The right-hand adversary of the dealer cuts for deal; the left-hand adversary for the starter. The eldest At this game there is a great deal more in the play than in either hand or crib. The average hand and crib is the same as at six-card Cribbage, 7 for the hand and 5 for the crib, but the play for the partners will run to 8 or 10 holes. Either side should be at home with 48 to 50 on two deals; four individual hands of 7 each, four plays of five each, and one crib of 5. SEVEN-CARD CRIBBAGE.This form of the game for two players differs from the others only in the number of cards dealt to each player, which is seven. Two are laid out for the crib, and five kept for playing. There being six cards in each hand, with the starter, the counting combinations sometimes run into high figures, and it is therefore usual to play the game 121 or even 181 points up. There are no authoritative LAWS for Cribbage, but the foregoing descriptions contain all the regulations in force at the best clubs. TEXT BOOKS.
PIQUET.Piquet is supposed to have been introduced during the reign of Charles VII., and was designed as a motif for a ballet of living cards which was given in the palace of Chinon. Of the etymology of the word piquet, little or nothing is known, but the game itself is one of those perennials that have survived much more pretentious rivals, and, thanks to its intrinsic merits, it has never since its invention ceased to be more or less À la mode. There are several varieties of Piquet, but the straightforward game for two players, sometimes called Piquet au Cent, or 100 points up, is the most common and popular, and will be first described. CARDS. Piquet is played with a pack of thirty-two cards, all below the Seven being deleted. The cards rank: A K Q J 10 9 8 7, the Ace being the highest both in cutting and in play. There is no trump in Piquet, and all suits are equal in value. Two packs are sometimes used, one by each player in his proper turn to deal. The cards have a certain pip-counting value, the Ace being reckoned for 11, other court cards for 10 each, and the 7 8 9 10 for their face value. MARKERS. As the scores are not put down until the end of the hand or play the game is usually kept on a sheet of paper, or it may be marked on a cribbage board. PLAYERS. Piquet is played by two persons, who sit opposite each other. They are known as the dealer, and the elder hand or pone. CUTTING. They cut for seats and cards, the lower cut having the choice, and dealing the first hand. If a player exposes more than one card the lowest of those exposed must be taken as his cut. Ties are decided by cutting a second time. STAKES. Piquet is played for so much a game of 100 points; but if the loser has not reached 50 points he is lurched, and loses a double game. DEALING. The cards shuffled, they are presented to the pone to be cut, and at least two cards must be left in each packet. Twelve cards are dealt to each player, either two or three at a time; but whichever method is first selected must be maintained throughout the game. In England the cards are always dealt by twos. No trump is turned. The remaining eight cards are placed face downward on the table, the five top cards being laid crosswise on the three at the bottom. These eight cards are called the talon or stock. Each player deals in turn. Irregularities in Dealing. If the pack is proved to be imperfect the deal is void, but all previous scores or cuts made with that pack stand good. A misdeal does not lose the deal under any circumstances. If a card is found faced in the pack there must be a fresh deal with the same cards. If a player deals out of turn, and detects the error himself before he sees any of his cards, he may insist on his adversary’s dealing, even if the adversary has seen his cards. As the deal is a disadvantage the adversary is not bound to correct the player in error. If the dealer gives too many or too few cards to either player a new deal is at the option of the adversary. The error will of course be detected when it is found that there are only seven cards in the talon. If the non-dealer elects to have the deal stand, the error in the player’s hand must be remedied in the discard, as will presently be described, and the stock must be divided 4-3 or 5-2, according to which player has too many cards. Carte Blanche. The cards dealt, each player takes up his twelve cards and sorts them into suits. If the pone finds himself without a K Q or J, he should immediately claim 10 points for carte blanche. If the dealer holds carte blanche, he does not declare it until the pone has discarded. DISCARDING. The five cards on the top of the talon belong to the pone, and he may discard from his hand any number of cards from one to five, and replace them by an equal number from the top of the stock. He must take at least one card, and he must take from the talon in the natural order of the cards. If he has elected to let a deal stand in which he has been given thirteen cards, he is entitled to four cards only from the talon, and must in all cases leave himself with twelve cards after his discard and draw are completed. If he does not take all five cards, he must announce distinctly how many he leaves, for if he fails to do so the dealer is not liable for having too many cards. The dealer then discards, first declaring carte blanche if he holds it. In England, he need not draw at all, in France he must draw at least one card. Besides the three cards which belong to him, he is entitled to take as many as he pleases of those left by the pone, and in drawing from the talon he must take the cards in the order in which they come. If two cards are left by the pone, for instance, and the dealer wants three only, he must take the two left by the pone and one of his own three, leaving the two others face down on the table. The number of cards in hand after the discard and draw must be exactly twelve. Only one discard is allowed, and having been made it cannot be changed after the stock has been touched. If the pone does not take all the cards to which he is entitled, he is allowed to look at those that remain of the first five that were on Each player keeps his discards separate from those of his adversary, and is allowed to refer to them at any time during the play of the hand, but on no account can he see his adversary’s discards, unless that adversary has mixed with them one or more of the unseen cards that were left in the stock, and afterward picks up and looks at his discard, including the card which the other is entitled to see. For instance: The dealer leaves a card without looking at it. This he afterward mixes with his discard. Now, if he looks at his discard, of course he sees the card left in the stock, and the pone may demand to see not only the card left, but the entire discard. The same rule applies to the pone if he takes into his discards an unseen card of the stock. Irregular Discards. If a player discards less cards than he intended, it is too late to remedy the error if he has touched the stock. If he discards too many cards, as the dealer frequently will by laying out five instead of three, he may take them back if he has not touched those in the stock, but if he touches any card in the stock, he must play with the short hand if there are not enough cards left in the stock to make his hand up to twelve. Irregular Drawing. If the pone draws one of the three cards which properly belong to the dealer, he loses the game; and if the dealer draws any of the first five, before the pone has announced that he leaves them, the dealer loses the game. The dealer has no right to touch any part of the stock until the pone has discarded and drawn; but if the pone draws without making any announcement about leaving cards, the dealer has a right to assume that five cards have been taken, and that only three remain in the stock. For instance: The pone discards five cards, but draws four only, without saying anything. The dealer proceeds to discard and draw. He has of course taken one of the pone’s cards, but it is too late to remedy the error or claim a penalty, and the pone must play with eleven cards. It is evident that the dealer will have too many cards, but as he has been led into the error by his adversary, he must be allowed to discard to reduce his hand to twelve. If a player takes a card too many from the stock, he may replace it if he has not put it with the other cards in his hand. If he has seen it, he must show it to his adversary. If the superfluous card has been taken into the hand, the player must have too many If a player is found to have too few cards after the draw, he may still play and count all he can make, but he cannot win a capot, because he has no card for the last trick, which must be won by his adversary. The Stock. If a player looks at one of his adversary’s cards in the stock before or during the draw, he can count nothing that hand. If he looks at a card left in the talon after the draw, which he is not entitled to see, his adversary may call a suit from him as many times as he has seen cards. If a card of the talon is accidentally exposed, the player to whom it would naturally belong may demand a fresh deal. OBJECTS OF THE GAME. In order to understand the principles that guide players in discarding, the objects of the game must first be explained. There are three classes of counting combinations at Piquet, and the player that holds the better of each class, scores it. These combinations are: Point; Sequence; Fours and Triplets. The Point is the suit having the greatest pip value, reckoning the Ace as 11, court cards as 10 each, and the 10 9 8 7 at their face value. If one player’s best suit contains five cards, worth 48 points, and his adversary has a suit worth 51, the latter would be the only one to count, and it would be called the point for that deal. The value of the point is the number of cards that go to make it. In England, they count a point containing the 7 8 and 9 as worth one less than the number of cards. This is a modern invention, unknown to the older writers on the game, and not always played. Sequence. Three or more cards of the same suit, if next in value to one another, form a sequence. The French terms are generally used to designate the number of cards in the sequence: Tierce, QuatriÈme, Quinte, SixiÈme, SeptiÈme, HuitiÈme. Many English works on cards erroneously spell quinte without the “e,” and give “quart” for a sequence of four. If one is going to use the French language at all, it may as well be used correctly. Sequences outrank one another according to the best card, if they are of equal length; so that a quinte to a King would be better than a quinte to a Queen; but a longer sequence always outranks a shorter one, regardless of the high cards. The player holding the best sequence is entitled to score it, together with any inferior sequences he may hold in other suits. Should his adversary hold intermediate sequences, they are of no value. For instance: One player holds a quinte to the Jack in spades, a tierce The value of a sequence is ten more than the number of cards that go to form it, provided that number exceeds four. A tierce counts 3 only, and a quatriÈme 4 only; but a quinte is worth 15, a sixiÈme 16, and so on. Fours, and Triplets. Any four cards of the same denomination, higher than a Nine, is called a Quatorze; three of any kind higher than the Nine is called a Trio, or sometimes a Brelan. As a trio is seldom mentioned without naming the denomination, it is usual to say; “Three Kings,” or “Three Jacks,” as the case may be. The 7 8 and 9 have no value except in point and sequence. The player holding the quatorze of the highest rank may score any inferior ones that he may hold, and also any trios. Should his adversary hold any intermediate ones, they are of no value. In the absence of any quatorze, the best trio decides which player shall count all the trios he may have in his hand, his adversary counting none. For instance: One player holds four Tens and three Jacks, his adversary holding triplets of Aces, Kings, and Queens. None of the latter would be of any value, as the lowest quatorze is better than the highest trio, and the player with the four Tens could count his three Jacks also. Pairs have no value. The value of any quatorze is 14, as its name implies. Trios are worth 3 only. In discarding, the object is to secure the best counting combinations, and also to retain cards which will win tricks in play. The combinations take precedence of one another in scoring, the first being always Carte Blanche, then the Point, then Sequence, and lastly the Quatorze or Trio. DECLARING. Carte blanche must be announced and shown before a discard is made. Each player having discarded and drawn, the elder hand proceeds to announce any counting combinations he holds, which he must declare in regular order, beginning with the point. In announcing the point, the suit is not mentioned, only its value. The sequences are defined by the number of cards and the highest; “sixiÈme to the King,” for instance. The fours and trios are defined in the same way; “four Kings,” or “three Jacks.” To each of these declarations, as they are made in regular order, the dealer must reply: “Good,” “Equal,” or, “Not good.” If the point is admitted to be good, the holder scores it; not by putting it down on the score sheet, but simply by beginning his count with the number of points it is worth. If the point is equal, The strict rules of the game require the player whose combination is acknowledged to be good, to show it; but among good players this is quite unnecessary, for each usually knows by his own cards what his adversary should and probably does hold. The elder hand having finished his declarations, and announced their total value in points, leads any card he pleases. If this card is a Ten or better, he claims one point for leading it, even if he does not win the trick, and he adds this point to his score. An illustration will probably make the foregoing processes clearer. The elder hand, after the draw, holds these cards:—
He announces: “Forty-one.” “Not good.” “QuatriÈme to the Ace.” “Not good.” “Quatorze Aces,” which he knows is good; and which admits of his counting his triplets of Kings and Queens. These are worth collectively 20 points, and on leading one of his Aces he announces “Twenty-one.” The dealer, before playing a card, proceeds to claim the count for the combinations which are good in his own hand, which is as follows:—
The point is worth 5; the quinte 15, the quatriÈme 4, and the tierce 3; 27 altogether. His trios of Jacks and Tens are shut out by the superior combinations in the elder hand. Having claimed these 27 points, and their correctness having been admitted by the elder hand, the dealer proceeds to play a card. If either player has forgotten to declare anything before he plays, the count is lost. Sinking. A player is not obliged to declare any combination unless he wishes to do so, and he may sink a card if he thinks it would be to his advantage to conceal his hand. Sinking is calling only part of a combination, as, for instance, calling 51 for his point when he really has 61; calling a quinte when he has a sixiÈme, or a trio when he has a quatorze. Sinking is usually resorted to Irregular Declarations. If either player claims a combination which he does not hold, and does not remedy the error before he plays a card, he cannot count anything that deal, losing any other declarations he may have made which are correct. His adversary then counts everything in his hand, whether his combinations were inferior or not. He also counts for what he wins in the tricks. If the elder hand’s declaration is admitted by the dealer to be good, it is good, even if the dealer afterward proves to have a better point, sequence, quatorze or trio. If any combination named by the elder hand is not actually his best, he cannot amend his declaration after the dealer has replied to it. This is in order to prevent a player from getting information to which he is not entitled. If he holds three Kings and three Tens, for instance, and announces the Tens in order to find out whether or not his adversary has three Queens or Jacks, and the dealer says: “Not good,” the three Kings are lost, and the dealer scores his own trios. It sometimes happens that in order to keep a good point or sequence, a player will discard one card of a quatorze originally dealt him; or one of a trio, of which he afterward draws the fourth. He can score only the trio, of course; but his adversary, having none of that denomination either in his hand or discards, knows that four were possible, and after playing a card he has a right to ask the suit of the card which was discarded. METHOD OF PLAYING. The elder hand can lead any card he pleases, announcing the suit at the same time. The dealer is bound to follow suit, if able, but he is not obliged to win the trick. As there are no trumps, the higher card, if of the suit led, wins the trick. If the second player does not follow suit, the leader wins. The winner of one trick leads for the next, and so on until all twelve tricks are played. Every time a card is played which is better than a Nine, the leader counts one for it, adding the number to the total value of his score as already announced. If the second player wins the trick with any card better than a Nine he also counts one; but if the trick is won by the player who led, there is no extra count for winning it. The winner of the last trick counts one for it, in addition to his count for winning it with a card better than a Nine. If the leader wins it, he gets the one extra. If each player wins six tricks, there is no further scoring; but if either player wins the odd trick he adds to his score ten points A card once laid on the table cannot be taken back, unless the player has renounced in error. There is no revoke in Piquet, and if a player has one of the suit led he must play it. If he fails to do so, when the error is discovered the cards must be taken back and replayed. REPIC. If either player is able to reach 30 by successive declarations, beginning with the point, all of which are admitted by his adversary to be good, he adds 60 to his score, making it 90 instead of 30, and this is irrespective of what his adversary may have in minor or inferior combinations. The important thing to remember in repic is that declarations always count in regular order, carte blanche taking precedence of everything; then the point, sequences, and quatorze or trio. Suppose elder hand to hold the following cards:—
If the quinte to the King is admitted good for the point, it must be good for the sequence also. That is 20. The four Queens must be good, as the adversary cannot have any quatorze. This makes the total 34, and 60 added for repic, 94 altogether, to which he will add one for leading the first card, if it is above a Nine. Suppose the elder hand had the following cards:—
If his point is good, that and his four Aces and Kings will make him 33 altogether; but his sequence is not good, because the dealer holds five diamonds to the Queen, which comes in order before the score for quatorze, and so saves the repic. Suppose that with the foregoing cards the elder hand was told that even his point was not good. He would count 29 for the 14 Aces, 14 Kings, and the card led. If the dealer had a sixiÈme in diamonds, and a quinte in clubs, for instance, he would claim a repic, 96 points, in spite of the 29 announced by the elder hand; because point and sequence score before quatorze. Equalities do not save the repic. Take the following hands:—
The point is equal. The quatriÈme to the Jack is not good and the four Tens are not good; so elder hand leads a card, and PIC. If either player can reach 30 in hand and play combined, before his adversary scores anything, 30 are added for the pic. Pic can never be made by the dealer unless the elder hand leads a card smaller than a Nine; he must make repic if anything. To make pic the elder hand must reach 30 in the regular order of scoring. Suppose holds these cards:—
If the dealer acknowledges the point to be good, everything else in the hand must be good also. This will give the elder hand 27 before playing a card; 5 for the point, 15 and 4 for the sequences, and 3 for the Kings. By leading out the A K and Q, 3 more points are secured, the dealer having nothing to score, and so the elder hand reaches 30 and makes the pic, counting 60, and still having the lead. Equalities do not save pic. According to the strict rules of the game, a player who is playing for pic is not allowed to count 30 at all, but must jump from his last count, 29, to 60, or he loses the pic; but this is seldom or never insisted on. SCORING. The last card played, the total number of points made by each player are put down on the score sheet, or marked on a cribbage board, and if neither player has reached 100 points, the deal passes to the one who was elder hand on the last deal. The order of scoring should be carefully observed, in order to determine which goes out first, and whether or not a player is lurched. Carte blanche, The Point, Sequence, Quatorze or Trio, Repic, Points for Leading or Winning, Pic, the Odd Trick, Capot. If one player reaches 100 before his adversary has reached 50, it is a lurch, and counts a double game. Abandoned Hands. If a player throws down his cards, he may still take them up again, unless he or his adversary have mixed their cards with the discards, or with the remainder of the talon. SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY. The chief points for the beginner are good discarding, and taking advantage of tenace positions in the play, so as to secure the count for cards, which is often important. Elder Hand. In discarding, the pone should consider what there may be against him. If it is unlikely that he will lose a pic or repic, he should try for the point, which very often carries with it the sequence. It must be remembered that there are only eight cards in each suit, and by comparing those that you hold with those that your adversary may hold it is comparatively easy, in the The elder hand should risk a good deal if he has a fair chance to make a pic or repic, which will often settle the game. If there is any choice as to what to keep of two nearly equal chances, always preserve the combination that will be most likely to secure the count for cards. In Leading, it is best to begin with the point, unless you know that you are leading up to tenace, or to high cards that will bring in a long adverse suit. The piquet player soon learns the importance of tenace and fourchette, and can sometimes see how things must be managed for five or six tricks ahead, so as to secure the odd trick. Tenace is the best and third-best of any suit, such as A Q, while a fourchette is any two cards within one of each other, such as K J, or Q 10, and the lead from such combinations should always be avoided. If you have the odd trick in hand, make it at once, before you risk anything else, because the only difference between the odd trick and eleven tricks is the count for each card led in the tricks. The Dealer. The first thing to guard against is a long run of winning leads from the elder hand, which might make the odd trick, or even capot. As there are no trumps it is very important for the dealer to keep guarded Kings and twice-guarded Queens. The principal thing for the dealer to remember is that if he cannot stop a long suit in the elder hand, he will have to provide in advance for a certain number of discards, and these must be so planned that guards will be preserved in the other suits. He should also get his hand into such condition that when he does get into the lead, he will not have to lead away from tenaces or guarded Kings. Careful attention to his adversary’s declarations, and a comparison of his own hand with his discards will usually guide the dealer to a correct conclusion as to what to keep and what to throw away in playing to tricks. Mathematicians have exhausted their resources on Piquet, but their conclusions are of little use to the average player. The subject of discards has been very fully illustrated by examples from actual play, especially in the Westminster Papers, but no one has yet given us any simple rules like the jeux de rÈgle at ÉcartÉ. PIQUET NORMAND, FOR THREE PLAYERS.In this form of the game the players cut for seats and deal. The cards are dealt by twos and threes until each has ten, two cards remaining for the talon. The dealer may lay out any two cards in exchange for these, but no other player is allowed to touch them, nor to see the discards. The elder hand makes the first declarations. He makes repic and counts 90 if he can reach 20 without playing a card; and he makes pic, 60, if he can reach 20 in hand and play, under the same conditions as in the game for two players. The majority of tricks counts 10; if it is a tie, each counts 5. Capot counts 40 if all the tricks are taken by one player; but if two take them all between them, they count 20 each. The game may be played for a pool, first man out to take all; or it may be agreed that after one has retired the others shall decide it between them by playing it out at the ordinary two-handed game. PIQUET VOLEUR, FOR FOUR PLAYERS.The players cut for partners, the two lowest pairing against the two highest, and the lowest cut taking the first deal. Partners sit opposite each other. All the cards are dealt out, two and three at a time, each receiving eight cards. The elder hand declares first, but instead of announcing one thing at a time, and awaiting the reply of his adversaries, he declares everything, and then plays a card. Suppose the cards are distributed as follows, Z being the dealer:— A announces 41 for his point, sequence of three to the Queen, four Aces, and says, “I play a club,” which is his lead for the first trick. If the second player admits all these to be good he says nothing, but plays a card. In this case, Y would announce four to the King, and four to the Jack, and would play a spade, having no club. B would then announce three Kings, which are good on account of his partner’s having four Aces; but both the sequences are shut out by Y’s better declarations. The dealer, Z, then declares four to the Ten and three to the Nine, both those sequences being made good by his partner’s holding the best sequence at the table. The first trick played, each person at the table shows what he has claimed, in order that his adversaries may verify the count. A would then gather up the first trick, announcing the total score for his side, which would be 22; 4 for the point, 14 Aces, 3 Kings, and 1 for the card led. He would then play another club, announcing 22. This his partner would win but would not count, as he is on the same side that has already counted for the lead. If the play is followed up it will be found that A-B make a capot. The adversaries will then score 15 for their three sequences of four, and one of three. No point of less than 30 can be announced. Pic and Repic. If one player, or two partners together, reach 20 in counting, without playing, they count 90 for the repic. If they reach 20 in declarations and play together, they count 60 for the pic. Carte blanche in the hand of one or other partner may count toward pic or repic; and if two partners each held carte blanche, they would be entitled to 90 points for the repic, no matter what the adversaries held, because carte blanche takes precedence of all other scores. PIQUET A ÉCRIRE.This game somewhat resembles Skat in the manner of playing and settling. Any number from three to seven persons sit around the table; but only two play, and the losses of each individual are charged to him on a score sheet ruled off for the purpose. The players may take turns, each playing two deals, the first with the person on his left, and the second with the one on his right. Or it may be agreed that the loser in each deal shall give way to a new player, the winner of the majority of points in each deal to continue. The game is generally arranged for a certain number of tours or deals, at the end of which the scores are balanced and settled for. RUBICON PIQUET, FOR TWO PLAYERS.The chief difference between this game and the usual form, Piquet au cent, is in the manner of declaring. The usual method in England and America is as follows:— The Point is scored by the player holding the greatest number of cards in the suit, and the pip value is resorted to only to decide ties. This is done in order to conceal, if possible, the nature of the cards held. When the numerical value is asked, only the last figure is given, “seven,” for instance, if the point is 47. If the point is good, the elder hand immediately names the suit. If it is not good, the suit is not named, and the elder hand proceeds to call his sequences. It they are good, the suits must be named; the same with quatorze and trio. Under-calling. If a player holds an inferior sequence, quatorze or trio, which he knows is better than any his adversary can possibly hold, he may call it, and afterward score the better combination, provided he is correct in estimating the inferior one that he called as good against the cards. But if the adversary can demonstrate that the inferior announcement was not actually good against the cards, and that it was possible for him to hold a better, the score for the higher combination is lost. For instance: A player holds four Kings and three Aces, and on glancing over his hand and discards, sees that his adversary cannot hold any quatorze, so he declares the three Kings, instead of the four Aces. Suppose he mistook a Nine for a Ten, and overlooked the fact that his adversary might have had four Tens, the score for the four Kings would be lost, but the three Aces would be good if his adversary had discarded a Ten, and did not actually hold four. In the ordinary game, the higher combination is lost if it is not called. In play, every card led, whatever its value, counts one, and winning the trick counts one also. The last trick counts two, and the capot forty. Pic and repic are reckoned as in the ordinary game. Scoring. Instead of playing 100 points up, six deals is a game, each player dealing three times. The lower score is then deducted from the higher, and 100 points added to the difference to determine the value of the game, which is usually played for so much a point. If the result of the six deals is a tie, two more deals must be played. If they also result in a tie, the game is void. Rubicons. If either or both players fail to reach 100 points in the six deals, the one having the most is the winner, and adds to TEXT BOOKS.
Westminster Papers, Vols. II. to IX. inclusive. There are excellent articles on the Laws in Vols. III. and VI., and on discards in Vol. VII. IMPERIAL, OR PIQUET WITH A TRUMP.ImpÉrial differs from Piquet in some minor details, although the leading principle is the same. There are no discards; sequences of court cards are the only ones that count; tierces are worthless; and a trump suit is added. The cards rank K Q J A 10 9 8 7; the K Q J A and 7 of trumps are called honours, and in all sequences the four highest cards in the suit are the only ones that count. Counters. Each player is supplied with six white and four red counters, which are passed from left to right as the points accrue. Each red is worth six white, and when all six white counters have been passed over, they must be returned, and a red one passed over in their place. When all the counters, four red and six white, have been passed over, the game is won. Dealing. Twelve cards are given to each player, two or three at a time, and the twenty-fifth is turned up for the trump. If this is an honour, the dealer marks one white counter for it. There are no discards. ImpÉrials. Certain combinations of cards are known as impÉrials, and the player marks one red counter for each of them. The best impÉrial is carte blanche, which is sometimes marked as a double impÉrial, and worth two reds. A sequence of K Q J A in any suit is an impÉrial. An impÉrial de retourne may be formed in the dealer’s hand if the turn-up trump completes his sequence or makes four of a kind. An impÉrial tombÉe, or de rencontre, is made when the player who holds the King and Queen of trumps catches the Jack and Ace from his adversary. Four Kings, Queens, Jacks, Aces, or Sevens in one hand is an impÉrial; but the Eights, Nines and Tens have no value. Declaring. The elder hand announces his point, as in Piquet, and arrives at its value in the same way, reckoning the Ace for 11, etc. The dealer replies, “Good,” or “Not good,” as the case may be; but there are no equalities. If the point is a tie, the elder hand counts it. The point is worth a white counter. The impÉrials are then called, each being worth one red counter. The sequences are called first, that in trumps being “good” of course; then the fours are called, the best being four Kings, and the lowest four Aces. In plain-suit sequences there are no “equals,” the elder hand counting ties as an offset to the advantages of the deal. Playing. The elder hand leads a card, and the dealer then declares and marks any impÉrials he may have that are good; after which he plays a card. No impÉrials can be claimed or scored after the holder has played a card. The second player in each trick must win the trick if he can, either with a higher card or with a trump. For each honour in trumps in the tricks won the player marks a white counter at the end of the hand. The winner of the odd trick scores as many white counters as he has tricks in excess of his adversary. If either player makes capot, (all twelve tricks,) he scores two red counters. Scoring. When one player reaches six white counters and changes them for a red, his adversary must take down any white counters he may have scored. For instance: The pone has 2 reds and 4 whites up; the dealer has 1 red and 5 whites. The pone scores two whites, reaching six, and advancing his score to 3 reds, which are sometimes called impÉrials. The dealer must take down his white counters, losing that count altogether, and leaving himself 1 red. The only exception to this is that at the beginning of the hand if both have impÉrials combinations in hand, neither side takes down its white counters. In Counting out the following order of precedence must be observed: The turn-up trump, (if it is an honour). The Point. ImpÉrial in hand, sequences first. ImpÉrial de retourne. ImpÉrial tombÉe. Honours in tricks. Odd tricks. CASSINO.This is a very old and always popular game, which has lately been much improved by the introduction of the variations known as Royal and Spade Cassino, the latter especially being a very lively game. Like Euchre, Cassino is eminently respectable, and is one of the few games of cards that are unhesitatingly admitted to the domestic circle. Cards. Cassino is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, which have no rank in play, their pip or face value being the only element of importance. In cutting for positions at the table, or for partners in the four-handed game, the Ace is the lowest card, the others ranking upward to the King in the order of their sequence. Markers. When a certain number of points is agreed on as a game, the score may be kept with counters, on a sheet of paper, or on a cribbage board. If each hand is a game in itself, it is settled for immediately, either in counters or in money. Players. Any number from two to four may play, each for himself, or four may play two against two, partners sitting opposite each other. The players on the dealer’s right and left are known as the pone, and the eldest hand respectively. Cutting. The players draw from an outspread pack for positions at the table, the lowest card having the choice and dealing the first hand. If the first cut does not decide, those tying must cut again. If a player exposes more than one card he must cut again. The ace is low. Stakes. Cassino may be played for so much a game, or so much a point; and it may be agreed that the game shall be a certain number of points, or shall be complete in one deal, or that the player making the majority of points on each deal shall score one, and the one first making a certain number in this manner, such as five, shall be the winner. If points are played for, the lower score is usually deducted from the higher, and the difference is the value of the game. It is sometimes agreed that if the winner has twice as many points as his adversary, he shall be paid for a double game. Dealing. After the cards have been properly shuffled they must be presented to the pone to be cut, and he must leave at least four in each packet. Beginning on his left, the dealer distributes four cards to each player in two rounds of two at a time, giving two to the table just before helping himself in each round. No trump is turned, and the remainder of the pack is left face downward on the dealer’s left. The four cards dealt to the table Irregularities in the Deal. If the pack is proved to be imperfect, or if a card is found faced in the pack there must be a fresh deal by the same dealer. If a player deals out of turn, he must be stopped before the cards on the table are turned face upward. A misdeal loses the deal. It is a misdeal if the pack has not been cut, or if the cards are shuffled after the pack has been properly cut; or if the dealer deals a card incorrectly, and fails to remedy it before dealing to the next player; or if he deals too many or too few cards to any player or to the table. If a card is exposed during the deal, an adversary may claim a fresh deal. If, after the cards on the table have been faced, a card is exposed by the dealer, or is found faced in the pack, the player to whom it would be dealt may reject it, and it must then be placed in the middle of the stock, and he must be given the top card. If a card is exposed in the last round, the dealer must take it, and must allow the player to whom it would have been dealt to draw a card from the dealer’s hand, face downward. If he draws the exposed card, he must keep it. If the dealer gives any player an incorrect number of cards in any round after the first, and does not detect and correct the error before he deals to the next player, the dealer cannot count anything that hand. The number of cards in each hand must be restored to four, either by drawing from them, face down, or adding from the stock. If any player lifts his cards before the dealer has helped all the players, including himself, a misdeal cannot be claimed. Objects of the Game. The object in Cassino is to secure certain cards and combinations of cards which count toward game. These are as follows:—
The manner in which these points are secured will become apparent from the description of the method of playing the hands. Method of Playing. Beginning on the dealer’s left, each player in turn plays a card from his hand, placing it face upward on the table. Only one card can be played at a time, and each person must play in his proper turn until all four of his cards are exhausted. After receiving fresh cards, the eldest hand again plays first, and so on for every round. Under certain conditions, each player in his proper turn may take up certain cards from the table, together with the one played from his hand, turning them face downward in front of him. He is entitled to count all the points contained in the cards taken in or won in this manner. These conditions are: that he can match or pair a card or cards on the table; that he can combine two or more cards on the table so as to make their total pip value equal to that of the card he plays; or that he can build a card in his hand upon one on the table, so as to make their total pip value agree with that of a second card, still in his hand. Pairing. If the person whose turn it is to play, holds in his hand any card of a similar denomination to any of those on the table, he may play the card from his hand, face upward, and then gather it in again, together with all similar cards, turning them face downward in front of him. For instance: He holds an Eight, and there are one or two Eights on the table. He plays the Eight from his hand, and then gathers in all of them. Combining. If a player holds any card, not a K Q or J, the pip value of which is equal to that of two or more cards on the table, he may play the card from his hand, and then gather it in again, together with the two or three cards that collectively equal it in pip value. For instance: He holds a 9, and a 4, 3 and 2 are upon the table. He may combine these three cards, calling attention to the fact that their collective value is 9, and then play the 9 from his own hand, gathering in and turning down all four cards. An 8 and Ace, or 6 and 3 might be gathered in the same way; or two such combinations might be gathered at the same time, 3, 2, 6, 7, for instance, which would make two nines; all of which might be gathered by a player holding a 9 his hand. Pairs and combinations may be taken in together. For instance: Among the cards on the table are a 4, 6, and 10, and the player holds a 10. He can gather in not only the pair of Tens, but the combinations which equal a 10. Building. A player may have in his hand two cards, the lower of which, if added to a card on the table, would build up its value to that of the higher card still in the player’s hand. For instance: A player holds a 9 and 2, and there is a 7 on the table. He may place the 2 on the 7, announcing the total value; “Nine,” which will notify other players that those two cards cannot Should any other player following him hold a 9, he would be entitled to take in this build, but he could not separate the two cards forming it. A player holding either a 7 or a 2 could not touch either of the cards in the build, because they are no longer a 7 and 2, but a 9, for all practical purposes. Increasing Builds. If any player held an Ace and a 10 in his hand, he could increase the 9 build to a 10 build, by putting his Ace on the 7 and 2, and announcing the total value, “Ten.” Any following player would then be unable to win the build with anything but a 10, and the player who originally built it a 9 would lose it unless he also held a 10 in his hand. Should the build remain a 9 until it came round again to the player who originally built it, he could then take it in with his 9, or he might himself increase it to 10, if he had an Ace and a 10 in his hand; but in order to do this the player must have in his hand the cards to win both the original and the increased builds. A player holding in his hand a 10, 3 and 2, but no 8, could not build a 5 on the table to an 8, and afterward advance it to 10. He must have the 2 3 8 and 10 all in his own hand to do this. Some players imagine that a player cannot increase his own build in this manner, even if he has both the cards for the first and last build; but there is no reason why a player should be denied a privilege which is freely granted to his adversary. If any player can legitimately make or increase a build, all may do so, provided they have the proper cards. Double Builds. When two cards of the same denomination, or two builds of the same value are put together as one, they cannot be increased. For instance: A player holds 7 and 3, and there are upon the table a 5 2 and 4. He places his 3 on the 4, and gathers the 5 and 2 together, announcing the build as “Two Sevens.” This cannot be increased to 8, 9, or 10 under any circumstances, and nothing but a 7 will win it. Pairs may be doubled in the same manner. If a player has two Nines in his hand, and there is one on the table, he may build on the latter with one of his own, announcing, “Two Nines,” which will prevent any player from building either of them to 10, and will entitle the builder to take in both cards with his third Nine when it comes round to his turn. Should any other player at the table hold the fourth Nine, he could of course take in the build. It is necessary to distinguish between building and combining. In combining cards, those already on the table are gathered together; in building, or increasing a build, a card must be played from the hand. If one player has made a build of any description, The simple rule to be remembered is that no combination of cards once announced, and left on the table, can be changed, except by the addition of a card from the hand of some player. Taking In. Any player who has made a build is obliged either to win it, when it is next his turn to play, or to win something else, or to make another build. For instance: He has built a 5 into a 9 with a 4, and holds another 4; if another 5 appears on the table before it comes to his turn to play, he may build that into a 9 also, with his other 4, announcing, “Two Nines.” Or if some player should lay out a 4 he could pair it and take it in, leaving his 9 build until the next round. In the same way a player may increase or win another player’s build instead of taking in his own. An opponent’s build may be increased by cards from the hand only. In the four-handed game, partners may take in one another’s builds, or may make builds which can be won by the card declared in the partner’s hand. For instance; One player builds an 8, and his partner holds Little Cassino. If there is a 6 on the table, the Cassino can be built on it, and “two Eights,” called, although the player has no 8 in his own hand; the 8 already built by his partner is sufficient. If a player has built a 9 which has been taken in by an adversary, he still holding the 9 he built for, his partner may build for the declared 9 in the same way. Sweeping. If at any time a player is able to win everything on the table with one card, it is a sweep, and counts a point. For instance: He holds an 8, and there are upon the table four cards only:—5 3 6 and 2. By combining the 6 and 2, and the 5 and 3, two Eights will be formed, and the sweep is made. Sweeps are usually marked by leaving the cards with which they are made face upward at the bottom of the tricks taken in by the player. Sweeps made by opposite sides are sometimes turned down to cancel one another. Trailing. When a player cannot pair, combine, or build anything, he must play a card. This is called trailing, because he is simply following along waiting for opportunities. In trailing it is usually the best policy to play the smaller cards, except Aces and Little Cassino, because as other players will probably trail small cards also, these may be combined and won with the larger cards kept in the player’s hand. Last Cards. In the last round, all the cards remaining on the table are won by the player who takes the last trick, but it does not count as a sweep unless it would have been a sweep under any circumstances. The last trick is usually made by the dealer, who always keeps back a court card if he has one, to pair one already on the table. Irregularities in Play. If any person plays out of his proper turn, the card so played is laid aside as exposed, until it comes to his turn, when it is simply placed on the table with the others. The player in error is not allowed to build or combine it, nor to win anything with it. If a player gathers in a card which does not belong to the combination or build, he must not only return the card improperly taken up, but all others taken in with it, together with his own card, the latter, however, being laid out separately from the others. If the combination was his own build, it must be broken up; if an adversary’s, it must be restored, and left as it was. If a player takes in a build with a wrong card, or takes in a wrong combination, or gathers cards to which he is not entitled, the error must be challenged and proved before the next trick is taken in by another player, because only the last trick gathered can be seen. If a player makes a build without the proper card in his hand to win it, on discovery of the error, the combination must be broken up, and the adversaries may take back the cards they have played in following the erroneous build, and may amend their play. If, however, another player has won the erroneous build, there is no penalty, nor any remedy. Showing. After the last card has been played, each player counts his cards face downward, and announces the number. The player having the majority scores the three points for cards. If it is a tie, neither scores. The cards are then turned face up, and the spades counted and claimed; and then all the points for Cassinos and Aces. It should be remembered that the total number of points to be made in each hand, exclusive of sweeps, is eleven, and the total of the claims made must agree with that number. Scoring. There are several methods of scoring. The old way was to play 11 points up, deducting the lower score from the higher at the end of each deal. If one side reached 11 before the adversary reached 6, it was a lurch, and counted as a double game. The common method is to count every hand a game, and settle for it in counters. TWENTY-ONE POINT CASSINO.This game is usually marked with counters, or pegged on a cribbage board. Nothing is scored until the end of the hand, when each side reckons and claims its points. In order to avoid disputes there should be a previous understanding as to what points go out first in a close game. In the absence of any agreement to the contrary, the points count out in the following order:—Cards first, then Spades, Big Cassino, Little Cassino, Aces, and Sweeps. If the Aces have to decide it, the spade Ace goes out first, then clubs, hearts, and diamonds. If the sweeps have to decide it, only the difference in the number of sweeps counts, and if there is none, or not enough, the game is not ended, and another deal must be played. It is better to agree to count out in twenty-one point Cassino; each player keeping mental count of the number of cards and spades he has taken in, together with any “natural” points. The moment he reaches 21 he should claim the game, and if his claim is correct he wins, even if his adversary has 21 or more. If he is mistaken, and cannot show out, he loses the game, no matter what his adversary’s score may be. If neither claims out, and both are found to be, neither wins, and the game must be continued to 32 points, and so on, eleven points more each time until one player claims to have won the game. Suggestions for Good Play. The principal thing in Cassino is to remember what has been played especially in the counting and high cards, such as Aces, Eights, Nines, and Tens. In making pairs and combinations, give preference to those containing spades, and if you have to trail, do not play a spade if you can help it. If three Aces have been taken in, play the fourth, if you hold it, at the first opportunity, because it cannot be paired; but if there is another Ace to come, keep yours until you can make a good build with it. As between cards which were on the table and those trailed by an adversary, take in those trailed if you have a choice. Take in the adversary’s build in preference to your own, if you can, and build on his build at every opportunity. If Big Cassino is still to come, avoid trailing cards that will make a Ten with those on the table. Go for “cards” in preference to everything else, and always make combinations that take in as many cards as possible. If you have a Nine, and the cards on the table are 2 2 5 7, take in the 2 2 5, in preference to the 2 7. It is considered bad policy to take in three court cards, as it stops all sweeps when the fourth appears. ROYAL CASSINO.The only difference in this form of the game is that the three court cards, K Q J, have a pip value, and may be used in combining and building, whereas in the ordinary game they can be used only in pairs. The Jack is worth 11, the Queen 12, and the King 13; so that a 9 and 2 can be taken in with a Jack, or a 6 4 and 3 with a King. In the same manner a Queen will win a Jack and Ace, or a King will win a Jack and deuce. The aces are sometimes valued at 14 each. SPADE CASSINO.In this interesting variation every spade counts one point toward game. The spade Jack counts one in addition to its being a spade, and the extra point so made takes the place of the count for “spades” in the ordinary game, so that 24 points are made in every hand, exclusive of sweeps: Cards 3; Big Cassino 2; Little Cassino 1; the four Aces 4; the spade Jack 1, and 13 spades. It must be remembered that the spade Jack and deuce count 2 points each, the extra point being for the spade. The game is scored on a cribbage board, every point being pegged immediately; that is, every spade, every Ace, the Cassinos and the sweeps. There is nothing to count at the end of the hand but the cards. Sixty-one points is game, once round the board and into the game hole. DRAW CASSINO.In this variation, no more cards are dealt after the first round, but each player keeps his hand filled to four cards by drawing one from the top of the stock as soon as he plays one from his hand. The stock is left on the table, face down, slightly spread, for convenience in slipping off the top card as it is drawn. CONQUIAN.The etymology of this word is Spanish; con quiÉn, “with whom,” but of the game it stands for, little or nothing is known except that it is a great favorite in Mexico, and in all the American States bordering upon it, especially Texas. It is an excellent game for two players, quite different from any other in its principles, and requiring very close attention and a good memory to play it well. In its finer points, especially in the judgment of what the adversary holds or is playing for, it ranks with our best games, and will probably grow in popularity as it becomes better known. Cards. Conquian is played with the Spanish pack, forty cards, the 8 9 10 of each suit being deleted. In America, it is much more common to play with a pack of forty cards from which the three court cards, K Q J, have been discarded, leaving each suit an unbroken sequence from the Ace to the Ten. Some persons play with the full pack, but it spoils the game; as it is then possible to win on a sequence of a single suit. There are no trumps, and the cards have no value as to rank, a sequence of 6 7 J being no better than one of 2 3 4. The Ace is not in sequence with the King. Counters. Each player should be supplied with at least ten counters, which may be used in settling at the end of each deal. Players. Conquian is played by two persons, one of whom is known as the dealer, and the other as the pone. If there are three at the table, the dealer takes no cards, and has no part in the game for that hand. Cutting. Seats and deal are cut for, the lowest cut having the choice, and dealing the first hand. The Ace is low, the King high. Stakes. Each deal is a game in itself, and the loser pays one counter for it. If the game is a tie, called a tableau, each puts up a counter for a pool, and the winner of the next game takes the pool, in addition to the counter paid by his adversary. If the next game is also a tableau, each player adds another counter to the pool, and so on until it is won. Dealing. Ten cards are dealt to each player in five rounds of two at a time, and the twenty remaining in the stock are laid upon the table face down, between the players, but a little to the left of the dealer. The stock may be slightly spread, to facilitate the process of drawing cards from it. Objects of the Game.The object of each player is to form triplets, fours, and sequences, by combining the cards dealt him with others drawn from the stock. These combinations are laid upon the table, face up, and the player wins the game who first succeeds in laying down eleven cards in this manner. Sequences must be all of the same suit, and cannot be shorter than three cards. The Ace is not in sequence with the King, but the 7 is next below the Jack. A sequence once started can be added to from time to time as the cards are drawn from the stock. Triplets are any three cards of the same denomination, and they may be increased to Fours at any time, by adding the other card. Borrowing. A player with four of a kind on the table may borrow any one of the four to use in a sequence; but he cannot borrow one of three, because no combination may consist of less than three cards. In the same manner a player may borrow the card at either end of a sequence of at least four cards, if he can use it to make a triplet. He cannot borrow an intermediate card, nor one of a sequence of three cards only, because three cards must be left to maintain the sequence, but if he had a sequence of at least five cards on the table, he might borrow the top of it to make one triplet, and then the next card to make another triplet. Method of Playing. The cards dealt, each player sorts his hand into sequences and triplets, and determines what cards he wants to complete his runs, so that he may be on the lookout for them. The pone then draws the top card from the stock and turns it face up on the pack. If this card can be used in combination with any of those in his hand, he draws it over to his side of the table, and takes from his hand the cards completing the combination of three cards, leaving them all face up. Even if he has cards enough in his hand to increase the combination to four or more cards, he should not show them. The cards drawn from the stock must never be taken into the hand. Let us suppose the pone holds these cards:—? J 7 6 4; ? 5 3 2; ? K 7 5; and that the ? 5 is the first card he draws. He can use this card in three ways: By making a run of three with the ? 4 and ? 6; or a run with the ? 6 and ? 7; or a triplet with the two other 5’s. In this case he would probably lay out the 6 and 7, and make the run of three. If he should draw the ? Q later on, he could use it by continuing the sequence with his Jack; or if the ? 3 appeared, he could use it with his ? 4. Passing. If he cannot use the card drawn, or does not wish to, he draws it from its position on the top of the stock and places it between himself and the dealer, still face up. The dealer then decides whether or not he wants it, and if he does not he “passes” it by turning it face down, and pushing it to his right. Cards once passed in this manner cannot again be seen by either player. The player who passes the card turns up the next one on the stock. If he does not want it, he places it on the table between himself and his adversary, and if his adversary does not want it either, he turns it down and passes it to the pile of deadwood, turning up the top card of the stock again. In this manner Discarding. If a player uses any card drawn from the stock in this manner, it is obvious that he has too many cards, and in order to reduce his hand and show-downs to ten cards, he must discard something, unless he can show down everything remaining in his hand, in which case he would have eleven cards down, and win the game. In discarding, the card thrown out is placed at the disposal of the adversary, as if it were the card drawn from the stock, and if the adversary does not want it, he passes it and draws another. It should be observed that the player drawing the card from the stock always has the first refusal of it. This is sometimes very important, as both players often need the same card. In the foregoing example, the player’s best discard would be his ? K, which is too far removed from the others in the suit to make a run possible, and there is no mate to it with which to start a triplet. If the adversary could use this King, he would have to discard in his turn, and the card so thrown out would be at the disposal of the other player, just as if it had been drawn from the stock. Forcing. A player need not use any card drawn, but if he has upon the table any combination in which it can be used, his adversary may force him with it, even after it has been declined. For instance: A player has eight cards down, two sequences of four small cards each, and in his hand a pair of Kings. Another King will make him game; but if he has to depend on his sequences to put him out, he will have to get three more cards. Suppose he draws a card that will fit one of his sequences; it is to his advantage to pass it; but upon laying it on the table his adversary may take it up and force him with it, by placing it at the end of his sequence, at the same time saying: “Discard.” In the same manner a player holding one of the cards of his adversary’s show-down sequence or triplet may force after using a card, by placing his discard on his adversary’s sequence, instead of laying it on the table. If it is laid on the table, the adversary may pass it at once, by turning it down, and it is then too late to compel him to use it. Suppose you think your adversary holds two cards of an unplayed sequence, and has a triplet on the table. If you can use one of those sequence cards in his hand to advantage, and can force him by giving him the fourth card of his triplet, which is of no use to you, you should do so; but you must remember that you cannot force except after using a card yourself, If a player looks at any of the cards that have been passed and turned down, his adversary may take up and examine the remainder of the stock, but without disturbing the position of the cards therein, and without showing them. If a player looks at any of the cards in the stock except the one he draws, his adversary may look at all of them. If a player draws out of turn, his adversary simply claims the card. Showing. After the last card is drawn from the stock and passed, each player shows the remainder of his hand, and as neither can combine his cards so as to get eleven down, it is a tableau, and each puts a counter in the pool for the next hand. The deal passes from one player to the other in rotation as long as they continue to play. Suggestions for Good Play. Observation of the cards passed will usually show what the adversary is keeping, and what he has no chance for. Toward the end of the stock each player should know what the other holds in his hand by the cards which have not appeared in the drawing. If a player has not a good chance to get eleven down himself, he should play for a tableau, by using nothing that will compel him to discard cards which may put his adversary out. It should be remembered that a player cannot get eleven down in one suit, and careful observation of the cards passed will often show that his runs are blocked, the cards necessary to continue them having been turned down. One peculiar feature of the game is that a player cannot block his adversary and at the same time win the game, because so long as he holds up the card that his adversary wants he cannot get eleven down himself. His only chance is that he may be able to use the card that his adversary needs. For instance: He holds two 8’s, one of which will make his adversary eleven down by completing a sequence. If there is another 8 to come, the player with the pair may use both his 8’s, and win; but if there is no other 8 to come, it is impossible for the player with the two 8’s to win without first putting his adversary out. There are no Text Books on Conquian, and this is the first complete description of it ever published. CALABRASELLA.This is a very popular game with the middle classes and the unoccupied clergy in Italy, and it is one of the very few good games of cards for three players. If the game were better known, the author is sure it would become a great favourite, especially with Cards. Calabrasella is played with the Spanish pack, forty cards, the 10 9 and 8 of each suit being discarded. The cards rank: 3 2 A K Q J 7 6 5 4, the 3 being the highest, and the 4 the lowest, both in cutting and in play. There are no trumps. Markers. The game may be scored by paying and taking in counters, each player being provided with about fifty at the beginning of the game, which are purchased from a banker; but the better way is to keep account of the gains and losses of the single player in each deal, in the manner already described in connection with Skat, balancing the account at the end in the same way. Players. Calabrasella is played by three persons, two of whom are partners against the third in each hand. If four play, the dealer takes no cards, but shares the fortunes of those who are opposed to the single player, just as in Skat. The players on the right and left of the dealer are known as the pone and the eldest hand respectively. Cutting. The players cut for seats and deal, the lowest card having the first choice and dealing the first hand. A player exposing more than one card must cut again. Stakes. The game is played for so much a point. The largest winning or loss for the single player is 140, but such an amount is almost impossible, and the average payments are 10 or 20. Dealing. The cards are presented to the pone to be cut, and at least four must be left in each packet. The dealer then distributes them to the players four at a time, until each has twelve, four remaining in the stock or talon, which is left upon the table face down. No trump is turned. The deal passes to the left. There are no misdeals. If the cards are not properly distributed, or four cards are not left in the talon, the same dealer must deal again, without penalty. Objects of the Game. The chief objects of the game are to win the last trick, and to secure counting cards in the other tricks in the course of play. There are 35 points to be played for in every deal. The six highest cards in each suit, 3 2 A K Q J, have a counting value, the Ace being worth 3, and the others 1 each. The last trick counts 3. Declaring. The eldest hand examines his cards and determines whether or not he will stand; that is, play single handed against the two others. If not, he says “pass,” and the next Discarding. Having given a card in exchange for the 3 asked for, the single player must discard at least one more card, face downward on the table, and he may discard as many as four. The four cards remaining in the stock are then turned face up, and the single player may select from them as many cards as he has discarded; but he is not allowed to amend his discard in any way. The cards he does not take, if any, are turned down again, and are placed with his discards, forming a stock of four cards, which must not be seen or touched until the last card is played, when it becomes the property of the side that wins the last trick, and any counting cards it may contain are reckoned for that side. Playing. The discards settled, the eldest hand leads any card he pleases, and the others must follow suit if they can, but no one is obliged to win a trick if he has a smaller card of the suit led, and does not want the lead. The two adversaries of the single player do their best to get him between them, and combine their forces to prevent him from winning tricks that contain counting cards, especially Aces. Whatever tricks they win are placed together, and the counting cards contained in them reckon for their joint account. The tricks have no value as such, except the last. Showing. The winner of the last trick takes the stock, and each side then turns over its cards and counts the total value of the points won. The lower score is deducted from the higher, and the difference is the value of the game. If all 35 points are won by either side, they count double, 70. Scoring. If the single player loses, he loses to both adversaries, and if he wins he wins from both. His score is the only one put down, and the amount is preceded with a minus or plus sign according to the result. If he secures 23 points, he wins 11; if he takes in 16 only, he loses 3. If the amount is less than 18 it must be a loss; if it is 18 or more it must be a gain. The method of balancing the scores at the end will be found fully explained in connection with Skat. Irregularities. The penalty for a revoke is the loss of 9 points, which are taken from the score of the side in error at the end of the hand, and added to the side not in fault. If the final score is 24 to 11, for instance, in favour of the single player, and Suggestions for Good Play. The general tactics of the game are extremely like those employed in Whist and Skat. The player establishes his long suit as rapidly as possible, and preserves his tenaces and cards of re-entry. The adversaries of the player should lead short suits up to him, and long suits through him, and every opportunity should be taken advantage of to discard counting cards on partner’s tricks, Aces especially, which are not the best of the suit, but count the most. Both sides scheme to get their hands in shape for winning the last trick, which usually makes a difference of ten or twelve points in the score, owing to the high cards held back, and those found in the stock. Each side should keep mental count of its score, so as to know whether or not it must win the last trick to get to 18. The exposure of the stock, the number of cards discarded by the player, the suits which are led and avoided, will all prove useful guides in determining where the strength or weakness in each suit lies, and proper advantage should be taken of all such inferences. Some judgment is required in selecting the suit in which the 3 is to be asked for, and the single player must plan in advance for all his discards, one for the exchange, and those for the stock. The player’s position at the table makes quite a difference. The leader has an advantage with a good long suit; but with tenaces it is better to be third player, and very bad to be second hand. Some pretty positions arise in the end game through the refusal of players to win tricks which would put them in the lead, and so lose them the last trick and the stock. After the first few tricks, everything must be arranged with a view to securing that last trick, but the importance of getting home with Aces must never be overlooked. These count 12 points in every hand, and the side that can get in three out of the four has 6 points the best of it. The only Text Book on this game is the Pocket Guide, by “Cavendish”; there are some good articles in Vol. III. of the “Westminster Papers.” VINT.While this game is by some persons thought to be the forerunner of bridge, and might be classed as one of the whist family, it is at present so little known outside of Russia, where it is the national game, that the author has thought it best to group it with other games which are distinctly national in character. Vint has been variously described as bridge without a Dummy and as auction whist. It resembles bridge in the making of the trump, and whist in the manner of the play. Cards. Vint is played with the full pack of fifty-two cards, which rank from the A K Q down to the deuce. Two packs are generally used. Players. A table is complete with four players, and if there are more than four candidates for play the selection must be made by cutting. All the rules for formation of tables, cutting, ties, etc., are the same as at bridge. The lowest cut takes the deal. Partners sit opposite each other. Dealing. The dealer presents the pack to be cut, and then gives thirteen cards to each player, one at a time. No trump is turned. The deal passes to the left. All irregularities are governed by the same laws as bridge. Making the trump. Each player in turn, beginning with the dealer, bids to make a certain number of tricks, from seven to thirteen, with a suit of his own choosing, which he names when he makes his bid. The suits outrank one another in the order of hearts, diamonds, clubs, and spades, hearts being the best. No-trumps are higher than hearts. A bid of seven tricks is usually called “one” in hearts, or whatever the suit may be. A bid of “two” means to win eight tricks, or two over the book. Bidding. If a player wishes to go over the first offer made, he must either bid the same number of tricks in a better suit, or he must increase the number of tricks. No player can increase his own bid unless he is overbid in the interval, but there is no limit to the number of times that players may outbid one another. Observe that the dealer may bid or pass, and each player after him in turn may bid or pass. The highest bidder must abide by his announcement both as to the number of tricks and the suit. The Play. No matter who dealt the cards, the player to the left of the highest bidder always leads for the first trick. Each player in turn must follow suit if he can, and the highest card played, if of the suit led, wins the trick, trumps winning all other suits. The winner of one trick leads for the next, and so on. There is no Dummy hand as in bridge. Scoring. Although the bidding is for so many “odd” tricks, or tricks over the book, every trick taken is counted when it comes to the scoring; but it is the number of tricks bid, and not the rank of the suit, that determines the value. Every trick won by the same partners—
Both sides score. If the highest bid was “two in diamonds,” and the bidder’s side won nine tricks, they would score 9 times 20, or 180; while their adversaries would score 4 times 20, or 80. As soon as either side reaches 500, they win the game, even if it is in the middle of a hand; but the hand must be played out in order to see how many points are won by each side. It should be observed that although the bidder’s side may make nine or ten tricks the adversaries can win the game if they get enough to count out before the bidder, by reaching 500 first. Tricks and Honours. The score for tricks and for honours must be kept separate, usually above and below the line, as at bridge. All trick points, which are the only ones that count toward game, are placed below the line; the honour points above. For winning a game, 1,000 points are added in the honour column. The side that first wins two games of 500 points each adds 2,000 rubber points in the honour column. Slams. If a little slam, 12 tricks, is made, but has not been bid, it is worth 1,000 points in honours. If a little slam, “six tricks,” has been bid and is made, it is worth 5,000 more for bidding it, or 6,000 altogether. If a grand slam, 13 tricks, is made but not bid, it is worth 2,000 honour points. If a little slam is bid and a grand slam made, it is worth 7,000 altogether. If a grand slam is bid and made, it is worth 12,000 altogether. Lost Games. If the bidder fails to make good, his adversaries score 100 times the value of the tricks as penalty, in the honour column; the scores for the tricks actually won standing at their regular value below the line. Suppose the bid to be three in diamonds, making the tricks worth 30 each, and that the bidder’s side get the odd trick only. Although the bidder has failed to make good, he scores below the line for the seven tricks he took, at 30 each, and the adversaries score for the six they took, also at 30 each. Then, as the bidder fell short by two tricks of making good, his adversaries score these two tricks at 3,000 points each, penalty, in the honour column. Honours. The honours are the A K Q J 10 of trumps and the four Aces, the Aces being always honours; but when there is a no-trump declaration they are the only honours. This makes the Ace of trumps count double, when there is a trump suit; once as one of the five honours in trumps, and once as an Ace. Each honour is worth ten times as much as a trick. If the bid was three in clubs, the tricks would be worth 30 each and the honours 300 each. The side that has the majority of Aces and of honours scores for all they hold; not for the majority or difference. Suppose the bidder’s side has three honours in clubs and three Aces; the other side must have only two honours and one Ace; therefore the bidder scores for six honours, at 300 each. If the Aces and honours in trumps are so divided that each side has a majority of one or the other, they offset. Suppose the bidder to hold four Aces and two honours. The adversaries must have the majority of trump honours. Then the number of their trump honours, which is three, is deducted from the number of the bidder’s Aces, four, leaving the bidder’s side only one honour to the good. Three honours on one side and three Aces on the other would be a tie, and no honours to score. If the Aces are a tie, the side that wins the most tricks scores them. Suppose the bidder has three honours and two Aces. He scores five honours if he wins the odd trick; otherwise he scores one only, the Aces being a tie and he having only one more honour than his adversaries. In no-trump hands, the honours are worth 25 times the value of the tricks. If Aces are easy, neither side scores. If one has three Aces, they are all scored. Suppose the bid to have been “two at no-trumps,” then the Aces are worth 25 times 20, and three of them are worth 1,500 points. Coronets. A sequence of three or more cards in any suit, trumps or plain, held by an individual player, is a coronet. Three or four Aces in one hand is also a coronet. When there is a trump suit, three Aces, or three of a plain suit in sequence, are worth 500 in the honour column. Each additional card is worth 500 points more. A sequence of K Q J 10 9 would be worth 1,500. In the trump suit, and in all the suits when there are no trumps, these coronets are worth double, and each additional card is therefore worth 1,000 more. Rubbers. As soon as one side wins two games, that ends the first rubber. The partners then change, without cutting, in such a manner that at the end of three rubbers each player shall have had each of the others for a partner. At the end of the third rubber, the losses and gains are ascertained for each individual, and settled for. Laws. The laws that govern the game are almost identical with those for Bridge. PREFERENCE.This is a simplified form of Vint, for three players, with a thirty-two-card pack. The cards rank: A K Q J 10 9 8 7, and the suits rank: Hearts, diamonds, clubs, and spades. Hearts are always preference. There are no hands played without a trump suit. If four persons play, the dealer takes no cards. The three active players make up a pool, each putting in an equal amount at first, and the bidder putting into it as many as he bids for the privilege of naming the trump suit. Any one may deal the first hand, after which the deal passes to the left. Three cards are given to each player the first round, then two are laid off for a widow, then four to each player, and then three to each. Beginning on the dealer’s left, each player in turn may name the trump if he thinks he can take at least six of the ten tricks to be played for. Bids outrank one another in the order of the suits, hearts being preference always. The number of tricks is not mentioned. In case there are no bids, each in turn has a second chance to bid for the widow. These bids are made in counters, to be put into the pool. The highest bidder takes the widow, lays out two cards, and then names the trump suit. The players agree upon a value for the tricks won, and payments are made from the pool accordingly. These payments may vary according to the rank of the trump suit. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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