CHAPTER I. |
PAGE |
A General View of Spain—Isolation—King of the Spains—Castilian Precedence—Localism—Want of Union—Admiration of Spain—M. Thiers in Spain | 1 |
CHAPTER II. |
The Geography of Spain—Zones—Mountains—The Pyrenees—The Gabacho, and French Politics | 7 |
CHAPTER III. |
The Rivers of Spain—Bridges—Navigation—The Ebro and Tagus | 23 |
CHAPTER IV. |
Divisions into Provinces—Ancient Demarcations—Modern Departments—Population—Revenue—Spanish Stocks | 30 |
CHAPTER V. |
Travelling in Spain—Steamers—Roads, Roman, Monastic, and Royal—Modern Railways—English Speculations | 40 |
CHAPTER VI. |
Post Office in Spain—Travelling with Post Horses—Riding post—Mails and Diligences, Galeras, Coches de Colleras, Drivers and Manner of Driving, and Oaths | 53 |
CHAPTER VII. |
Spanish Horses—Mules—Asses—Muleteers—Maragatos | 65 |
CHAPTER VIII. |
Riding Tour in Spain—Pleasures of it—Pedestrian Tour—Choice of Companions—Rules for a Riding Tour—Season of Year—Day’s Journey—Management of Horse; his Feet; Shoes; General Hints | 80 |
CHAPTER IX. |
The Rider’s Costume—Alforjas: Their contents—The Bota, and How to use it—Pig Skins and Borracha—Spanish Money—Onzas and smaller Coins | 94 |
CHAPTER X. |
Spanish Servants: their Character—Travelling Groom, Cook, and Valet | 105 |
CHAPTER XI. |
A Spanish Cook—Philosophy of Spanish Cuisine—Sauce—Difficulty of Commissariat—The Provend—Spanish Hares and Rabbits—The Olla—Garbanzos—Spanish Pigs—Bacon and Hams—Omelette—Salad and Gazpacho | 119 |
CHAPTER XII. |
Drinks of Spain—Water—Irrigation—Fountains—Spanish Thirstiness—The Alcarraza—Water Carriers—Ablutions—Spanish Chocolate—Agraz—Beer Lemonade | 136 |
CHAPTER XIII. |
Spanish Wines—Spanish Indifference—Wine-making—Vins du Pays—Local Wines—BenicarlÓ—ValdepeÑas | 145 |
CHAPTER XIV. |
Sherry Wines—The Sherry District—Origin of the Name—Varieties of Soil—Of Grapes—Pajarete—Rojas Clemente—Cultivation of Vines—Best Vineyards—The Vintage—Amontillado—The Capataz—The Bodega—Sherry Wine—Arrope and Madre Vino—A Lecture on Sherry in the Cellar—at the Table—Price of Fine Sherry—Falsification of Sherry—Manzanilla—The Alpistera | 150 |
CHAPTER XV. |
Spanish Inns: Why so Indifferent—The Fonda—Modern Improvements—The Posada—Spanish Innkeepers—The Venta: Arrival in it—Arrangement—Garlic—Dinner—Evening—Night—Bill—Identity with the Inns of the Ancients | 165 |
CHAPTER XVI. |
Spanish Robbers—A Robber Adventure—Guardias Civiles—Exaggerated Accounts—Cross of the Murdered—Idle Robber Tales—French Bandittiphobia—Robber History—Guerrilleros—Smugglers—Jose Maria—Robbers of the First Class—The Ratero—Miguelites—Escorts and Escopeteros—Passes, Protections, and Talismans—Execution of a Robber | 186 |
CHAPTER XVII. |
The Spanish Doctor: His Social Position—Medical Abuses—Hospitals—Medical Education—Lunatic Asylums—Foundling Hospital of Seville—Medical Pretensions—Dissection—Family Physician—Consultations—Medical Costume—Prescriptions—Druggists—Snake Broth—Salve for Knife-cuts | 213 |
CHAPTER XVIII. |
Spanish Spiritual Remedies for the Body—Miraculous Relics—Sanative Oils—Philosophy of Relic Remedies—Midwifery and the Cinta of Tortosa—Bull of Crusade | 236 |
CHAPTER XIX. |
The Spanish Figaro—Mustachios—Whiskers—Beards—Bleeding—Heraldic Blood—Blue, Red, and Black Blood—Figaro’s Shop—The Baratero—Shaving and Toothdrawing | 255 |
CHAPTER XX. |
What to observe in Spain—How to observe—Spanish Incuriousness and Suspicions—French Spies and Plunderers—Sketching in Spain—Difficulties; How Surmounted—Efficacy of Passports and Bribes—Uncertainty and Want of Information in the Natives | 265 |
CHAPTER XXI. |
Origin of Bull-fight or Festival, and its Religious Character—Fiestas Reales—Royal Feasts—Charles I. at one—Discontinuance of the Old System—Sham Bull-fights—Plaza de Toros—Slang Language—Spanish Bulls—Breeds—The Going to a Bull-fight | 286 |
CHAPTER XXII. |
The Bull-fight—Opening of Spectacle—First Act, and Appearance of the Bull—The Picador—Bull Bastinado—The Horses, and their Cruel Treatment—Fire and Dogs—The Second Act—The Chulos and their Darts—The Third Act—The Matador—Death of the Bull—The Conclusion, and Philosophy of the Amusement—Its Effect on Ladies | 300 |
CHAPTER XXIII. |
Spanish Theatre; Old and Modern Drama; Arrangement of Play-houses—The Henroost—The Fandango; National Dances—A Gipsy Ball—Italian Opera—National Songs and Guitars | 318 |
CHAPTER XXIV. |
Manufacture of Cigars—Tobacco—Smuggling vi Gibraltar—Cigars of Ferdinand VII.—Making a Cigarrito—Zumalacarreguy and the Schoolmaster—Time and Money wasted in Smoking—Postscript on Spanish Stock | 335 |