Footnotes

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  1. During this period the ingenuity of man came to woman's rescue, by the invention of an interesting, and, judging by its popularity, exceedingly serviceable contrivance known as a dress elevator, which enabled ladies to instantly elevate their enormous trains when they came to a particularly muddy and filthy crossing. Return to text

  2. It was in the midst of the period of the tie-backs that Harper's Bazar published two striking cartoons illustrating the poem given below. One represented a poor man's wife, "The slave of toil," and was pathetically powerful in its fidelity to truth; the other, drawn by the powerful Nast, represented a society lady of the day attired in the reigning tie-back, measuring at the hips a little more than double the width a short distance below the knees. This slave was chained to fashion's column.

    SISTER SLAVES.

    You think there is little of kinship between them?

    Perhaps not in blood, yet there's likeness of soul;

    And in bondage 'tis patent to all who have seen them

    That both are fast held under iron control.

    The simpering girl, with her airs and her graces,

    Is sister at heart to the hard-working drudge;

    Two types of to-day, as they stand in their places;

    Whose lot is the sadder I leave you to judge.

    One chained to the block is the victim of Fashion;

    Her object in life to be perfectly dressed;

    Too silly for reason, too shallow for passion,

    She passes her days 'neath a tyrant's behest.

    Thus pinioned and fettered, and warily moving,

    Lest looping should fail her, or band come apart:

    What room is there left her for thinking or loving?

    What noble ambition can enter her heart?

    And one, the worn wife of a grizzled old farmer;

    She kneads the great loaves for the "men-folks" to eat.

    In the wheat-fields the green blades are springing like armor;

    Afar in the forests the flowers are sweet.

    She lifts not her eyes. Within kitchen walls narrow

    Her life is pent up. The most hopeless of slaves,

    Though weary and jaded in sinew and marrow,

    She never complains. Women rest in their graves.

    Twin victims, for which have we tenderest pity—

    For mother and wife toiling on till she dies,

    Or the frivolous butterfly child of the city,

    All blind to the glory of earth and of skies?

    Is it fate, or ill fortune, hath woven about you

    Strong meshes which ye are too helpless to break?

    Shall we scornfully wonder, or angrily flout you,

    Or strive from their torpor your minds to awake?

    Yet, Venus of old, with your queenly derision,

    How you would disdain the belle's tawdry array!

    Free footsteps untrammelled, cool hand of decision,

    Sweet laugh like bells pealing, were yours in the day

    When you reigned over men by the might of your beauty;

    No fetters were o'er you in body or brain;

    The world would bow down in the gladness of duty

    Could you but awake in your splendor again.

    And, Pallas and Venus, if now you were holding

    A talk over womanhood, what would you say,

    The words of wise counsel while you were unfolding,

    If some one should show you these pictures to-day?

    I dream of your faces: divinest compassion

    Would yearn the poor toiler to pity and save;

    And your largeness of scorn would descend on the fashion

    Which binds, unresisting, the idler a slave. Return to text

  3. I have reproduced the admirable cuts found in Dr. Trall's physiology, as they were essential to the understanding of the text quoted, and also because they convey more vividly than words the injury necessarily sustained by those who persist in outraging nature and violating the laws of their being by improper dress. Return to text

  4. In discussing the solemn duty mothers owe to their offspring, Mrs. Annie Jenness Miller sensibly observes:—

    Are women ignorant of the mischief they do to their offspring, or are they indifferent to consequences? Has the true maternal love become extinct, in this age of advanced civilization, that women ignore all the laws of nature while anticipating the glory of motherhood? We know not; yet we often see what causes a thrill of pity in our soul for the future of the child yet unborn: a mother laced within stiff bones and steel, while the very instincts of being cry out against the sin of it. Surely every child has a right to be well born! Wealth may be a grand inheritance, but health is a better one, as any poor suffering creature will testify, whose misery the most expensive doctors have been called upon to alleviate without avail. And how can a child be well born unless its parents observe the laws of life bearing upon the birth and rearing of children? It is impossible. If a mother will so clothe herself that the vitality which properly belongs to her baby becomes exhausted and destroyed, the child is robbed, as a natural consequence, and perhaps the weakened, puny, distorted, fretful little creature, who is innocent of the cause of its own sufferings, will live to become a curse to the world instead of the blessing that it would have been had rational conditions been observed before its birth.


    Tight corsets grudgingly loosened a quarter of an inch at a time, heavy skirts, and all the evil conditions we are so familiar with, are still retained as the months pass, bringing ever nearer what should be the very happiest hour of woman's existence—that in which she is to be intrusted with the keeping, training, and guidance of a new human soul. Perhaps her baby comes into the world dead or deformed, perhaps deprived of certain of its faculties; or it may be that it possesses life and all of its special senses and organs in such a diminished degree that the whole of its future becomes a pain rather than a joy, while its miserable, puny structure remains a lasting reproach to its parents as long as they live. Return to text

  5. In speaking of this practical dress reform on the part of the belles of New York, the Boston Daily Globe recently observed editorially: The great question now agitating the fashionable women of Fifth Avenue is: "Do you wear knickerbockers?"

    Stripped of all apologetic circumlocution, "knickerbockers" are simply loose, easy trousers, above which is worn a becoming blouse waist, and thus attired, the belles of New York come down to breakfast. Nor are the trousers subsequently removed while the ladies are about the house, unless some conservative caller is announced, when a stylish tea-gown can be jumped into in a second, and the lady is in faultless female costume.

    That women should be handicapped in their locomotion in their own homes is simply a relic of oriental slavery and prudery, and the revolt against it is sensible and wholesome. That they have come to stay is evident, while improved costumes for shop girls, and other women engaged in business every day in the year, are certain to follow in the order of progress.—Boston Globe.

    It might be well also for the council to recommend the formation of societies in each community where social or society gatherings of those interested might be held at stated intervals, at which all members would appear in dresses made with special regard to health, comfort, and beauty, and in which all garments would conform to the general ideal recommended by the council. Return to text

  6. As the paper is being set up my attention has been attracted to a remarkably sensible signed editorial in the Boston Sunday Globe, of July 26, by the brilliant writer and sensible thinker, Adelaide A. Claftin, from which I extract the following:

    Bishop Coxe's fulmination against the riding of bicycles by women has attracted considerable attention, but to the student of social movements it is not strange that Bishop Coxe should object. The real oddity is that scarcely anybody else, apparently, has objected.

    That young girls from the best families should within a short time have betaken themselves to whirling through the public thoroughfares, like so many boys, is certainly a new departure from all old fashioned canons of feminine decorum, at least as startling as many that have brought down all sorts of thunderbolts from pulpit and press. Had it been a prerequisite that an amendment to the United States Constitution, or even a statute of a State Legislature should be obtained, the girls would doubtless have had to wait many a weary year.

    It is not long since another church dignitary, Dr. Morgan Dix, objected to the entrance of girls into universities, because it was not "proper for young women to be exposed to the gaze of young men, many of whom were less bent upon learning than upon amusement."

    However little she may realize it, every girl who rides her steel horse is a vivid illustration of one of the greatest waves of progress of this century, the advancement of women in freedom and opportunity.

    A wise physician once said that the opinion that a good woman should stay closely at home had killed more women than any other one cause. In the days of our grandmothers the suggestion of regular gymnastic training or athletics for girls would have been received with horror. It was hardly proper for a woman to have any knowledge of the construction of her physical system.

    It is a curious historical fact that the first women lecturers upon physiology were women's rights women, and viewed by the majority of people as dangerous to female modesty, while the Ladies' Physiological Institute in Boston was at first much disapproved of by the clergy. So long, too, as old-fashioned "stays" (laced up sometimes by the aid of equally old-fashioned bed-posts) remained in vogue, neither physiology nor athletics stood much chance with women.

    But the often derided dress reformer has had her way, to a great extent. Bathing dresses, gymnastic and tennis suits which would have frightened an eighteenth century dame into one of her favorite fainting fits.

    Meanwhile the girls have mounted their bicycles. Bless you, my children; what endless vistas of good times are before you! What glorious landscape views and ocean moonrises, what freedom, what fresh, airy delight in young life and strength!

    Already one young doctor has departed with his bride on a wedding tour to Texas, each upon a bicycle. Other strange affairs will no doubt take place. By and by the bishops will see no more irreverence in bidding Godspeed to girls starting on a journey to California upon bicycles than to girls departing to Europe on a steamship. Return to text

  7. Lecky's History of England, Vol. V., p. 301. Return to text

  8. Peschel's, "The Races of Man," p. 163. Return to text

  9. "His Principle of Sociology," Vol. II., p. 209. Return to text

  10. There was another agitation in Korea in 1882, but this was a mere uprising of the mob against the Japanese staying in that country, and not of grave political importance. For the details of both these events, the reader is referred to "A Korean Coup D' Etat," an entertaining article by Perceval Lowell, Atlantic Monthly, November, 1886. This poverty-stricken country, with an imbecile sovereign at the helm of state, and with no organized array, is practically under the control of the Chinese government, though nominally she is independent. Some European powers, who seem to consider that the greatness of a nation is commensurate with its success in its territorial aggrandizement are casting eyes at her, in vain let us hope, for the sake of Korea. While the influence of China is so predominant, she cannot accomplish much. A coup d' État might be needed a few times more, before she can become an independent nation in the fullest sense of the words. At any rate, her prospect is dubious enough at present. Return to text

  11. About 4,179,559 sq. miles.—The Statesman's Yearbook, 1891. Return to text

  12. About 404,180,000.—Ibid. Return to text

  13. Spencer's "Principle of Sociology," Vol. II., pp. 436-458. Return to text

  14. Ibid, pp. 459-472. Return to text

  15. New York, Virginia, North Carolina, and Rhode Island. Bryce's The American Commonwealth, Vol. I., p. 32. Return to text

  16. His Representative Government, pp. 85, 86. Return to text

  17. His Essay on Milton. Return to text

  18. His Democracy in America, Vol. I., p. 2. Return to text

  19. His Popular Government, pp. 70-74. Return to text

  20. Ibid, pp. 17, 18. Return to text

  21. Literally, "The Deliverative Assembly of the Empire," being the comprehensive name for the two legislative chambers of Japan, corresponding to Parliament of England or Congress of the United States. Return to text

  22. "The New Type of Oppression," in "Essays: Religious, Social, Political." Lee & Shepard, Boston. Return to text


Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as possible, including obsolete and variant spellings and other inconsistencies. The transcriber made the following changes to the text to correct obvious errors by the publisher:

  1. p. 412, "tranverse" changed to "transverse"

Several occurrences of mismatched quotes remain as published.

Also, the illustrations may be shown on a slightly different page than where originally published. Pages 422, 424, and 426 contained full page images and as such have no text associated with them, thus giving the appearance that those pages are missing.






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