I

The Western Steamboat-landing—Western Punctuality—An Accident—Human Suffering—Desolation of Bereavement—A Contrast—Sublimity—An Ohio Freshet—View of Louisville—Early History—The Ohio Falls—Corn Island—The Last Conflict 43

II

The Early Morn—"Sleep no more!"—The Ohio—"La Belle RiviÈre!"—Ohio Islands—A Cluster at Sunset—"Ohio Hills"—The Emigrant's Clearing—Moonlight on the Ohio—A Sunset-scene—The Peaceful Ohio—The Gigantic Forest-trees—The Bottom-lands—Obstructions to Navigation—Classification—Removal—Dimensions of Snags—Peculiar difficulties on the Ohio—Leaning Trees—Stone Dams—A Full Survey—The Result 52

III

An Arrest—Drift-wood—Ohio Scenery—Primitive River-craft—Early Scenes on the Western Waters—The Boatmen—Life and Character—Annus Mirabilis—The Steam-engine in the West—The Freshet—The Comet—The Earthquakes—The first Steamboat—The Pinelore—The Steam-engine—Prophecy of Darwin—Results—Sublimity—Villages—A new Geology—Rivers—Islands—Forests—The Wabash and its Banks—New Harmony—Site—Settlement—Edifices—Gardens—Owen and the "Social System"—Theory and Practice—Mental Independence—Dissension—Abandonment—Shawneetown—Early History—Settlement—Advancement—Site—United States' Salines—Ancient Pottery 59

IV

Geology of the Mississippi Valley—Ohio Cliffs—The Iron Coffin—"Battery Rock"—"Rock-Inn-Cave"—Origin of Name—[x] A Visit—Outlines and Dimensions—The Indian Manito—Island opposite—The Freebooters—"The Outlaw"—The Counterfeiters—Their Fate—Ford and his Gang—Retributive Justice—"Tower Rock"—The Tradition—The Cave of Hieroglyphics—Islands—Golconda—The Cumberland—Aaron Burr's Island—Paducah—Name—Ruins of Fort Massac—The Legend—Wilkinsonville—The "Grand Chain"—Caledonia—A Storm—Sunset—"The Meeting of the Waters"—Characteristics of the Rivers—"Willow Point"—The place of Meeting—Disappointment—A Utopian City—America 70

V

Darkness Visible—The "Father of Waters"—The Power of Steam—The Current—"English Island"—The Sabbath—A Blessed Appointment—Its Quietude—The New-England Emigrant—His Privations—Sorrows—Loneliness—"The Light of Home"—Cape Girardeau—Site—Settlement—Effects of the Earthquakes—A severer Shock—Staples of Trade—The Spiral Water-wheels—Their Utility—"Tyowapity Bottom"—Potter's Clay—A Manufactory—RiviÈre au Vase—Salines—Coal-beds—"Fountain Bluff"—The "Grand Tower"—Parapet of Limestone—Ancient Cataract—The Cliffs—Divinity of the Boatmen—The "Devil's Oven"—The "Tea-table"—Volcanic and Diluvial Action—The Torrent overcome—A Race—Breathless Interest—The Engineer—The Fireman—Last of the "Horse and Alligator" species—"Charon"—A Triumph—A Defeat 82

VI

Navigation of the Mississippi—The First Appropriation—Improvements of Capt. Shreve—Mississippi and Ohio Scenery contrasted—Alluvial Deposites—Ste. Genevieve—Origin—Site—The Haunted Ruin—The old "Common Field"—Inundation of '85—Minerals—Quarries—Sand-caves—Fountains—Salines—Indians—Ancient Remains—View of Ste. Genevieve—Landing—Outrage of a Steamer—Indignation—The Remedy—A Snag and a Scene—An Interview with "Charon"—Fort Chartres 93

[xi] VII

The Hills! the Hills!—Trosachs of Loch Katrine—Alluvial Action—Bluffs of Selma and Herculaneum—Shot-towers—Natural Curiosities—The "Cornice Cliffs"—The Merrimac—Its Riches—Ancient Lilliputian Graves—Mammoth Remains—Jefferson Barracks—Carondelet—Cahokia—U. S. Arsenal—St. Louis in the Distance—Fine View—Uproar of the Landing—The Eternal River—Character—Features—Sublimity—Statistics—The Lower Mississippi—"Bends"—"Cut-offs"—Land-slips—The Pioneer Cabin 102

VIII

"Once more upon the Waters!"—"Uncle Sam's Tooth-pullers"—Mode of eradicating a Snag—River Suburbs of North St. Louis—Spanish Fortifications—The Waterworks—The Ancient Mounds—Country Seats—The Confluence—Charlevoix's Description—A Variance—A View—The Upper Mississippi—Alton in distant View—The Penitentiary and Churches—"Pomp and Circumstance"—The City of Alton—Advantages—Objections—Improvements—Prospects—Liberality—Railroads—Alton Bluffs—"Departing Day"—The Piasa Cliffs—Moonlight Scene 113

IX

The Coleur de Rose—The Piasa—The Indian Legend—Caverns—Human Remains—The Illinois—Characteristic Features—The Canal—The Banks and Bottoms—Poisonous Exhalations—Scenes on the Illinois—The "Military Bounty Tract"—Cape au Gris—Old French Village—River Villages—Pekin—"An Unco Sight"—Genius of the Bacchanal—A "Monkey Show"—Nomenclature of Towns—The Indian Names 122

X

An Emigrant Farmer—An Enthusiast—Peoria—The Old Village and the New—Early History—Exile of the French—Fort Clarke—Indian Hostilities—The Modern Village—Site—Advantages—Prospects—Lake Pinatahwee—Fish—The Bluffs and Prairie—A Military Spectacle—The "Helen Mar"—Horrors of Steam!—A Bivouac—The Dragoon Corps—Military [xii] Courtesy—"Starved Rock"—The Legend—Remains—Shells—Intrenchments—Music—The Moonlight Serenade—A Reminiscence 132

XI

Delay—"A Horse!"—Early French Immigration in the West—The Villages of the Wilderness—St. Louis—Venerable Aspect—Site of the City—A French Village City—South St. Louis—The Old Chateaux—The Founding of the City—The Footprints in the Rock—The First House—Name of City—Decease of the Founders—Early Annals—Administration of St. Ange—The Common Field—Cession and Recession—"L'Annee du Grand Coup"—"L'Annee des Grandes Eaux"—Keel-boat Commerce—The Robbers Culbert and Magilbray—"L'Annee des Bateaux"—The First Steamboat at St. Louis—Wonder of the Indians—Opposition to Improvement—Plan of St. Louis—A View—Spanish Fortifications—The Ancient Mounds—Position—Number—Magnitude—Outlines—Arrangement—Character—Neglect—Moral Interest—Origin—The Argument of Analogy 142

XII

View from the "Big Mound" at St. Louis—The Sand-bar—The Remedy—The "Floating Dry-dock"—The Western Suburbs—Country Seats—Game—Lakes—Public Edifices—Catholic Religion—"Cathedral of St. Luke"—Site—Dimensions—Peal of Bells—Porch—The Interior—Columns—Window Transparencies—The Effect—The Sanctuary—Galleries—Altar-piece—Altar and Tabernacle—Chapels—Paintings—Lower Chapel—St. Louis University—Medical School—The Chapel—Paintings—Library—Ponderous Volumes—Philosophical Apparatus—The Pupils 160

XIII

An Excursion of Pleasure—A fine Afternoon—Our Party—The Bridal Pair—South St. Louis—Advantages for Manufactures—Quarries—Farmhouses—The "Eagle Powder-works"—Explosion—The Bride—A Steeple-chase—A Descent—The Arsenal—Grounds—Structures—Esplanade—Ordnance—Warlike Aspect—Carondelet—Sleepy-Hollow—River-reach [xiii]—Time Departed—Inhabitants—Structures—Gardens—Orchards—Cabarets—The Catholic Church—Altar-piece—Paintings—Missal—Crucifix—Evergreens—Deaf and Dumb Asylum—Distrust of Villagers—Jefferson Barracks—Site—Extent—Buildings—View from the Terrace—The Burial Grounds—The Cholera—Design of the Barracks—Corps de Reserve—A remarkable Cavern—Our Guide—Situation of Cave—Entrance—Exploration—Grotesque Shapes—A Foot—Boat—Coffin in Stone—The Bats—RiviÈre des PÈres—An Ancient Cemetery—Antiquities—The Jesuit Settlers—Sulphur Spring—A Cavern—A Ruin 170

XIV

City and Country at Midsummer—Cosmorama of St. Louis—The American Bottom—Cahokia Creek—A Pecan Grove—The Ancient Mounds—First Group—Number—Resemblance—Magnitude—Outline—Railroad to the Bluffs—Pittsburg—The Prairie—Landscape—The "Cantine Mounds"—"Monk Hill"—First Impressions—Origin—The Argument—Workmanship of Man—Reflections suggested—Our Memory—The Craving of the Heart—The Pyramid-builders—The Mound-builders—A hopeless Aspiration—"Keep the Soul embalmed" 180

XV

The Antiquity of Monk Mound—Primitive Magnitude—Fortifications of the Revolution—The Ancient Population—Two Cities—Design of the Mounds—The "Cantine Mounds"—Number—Size—Position—Outline—Features of Monk Mound—View from the Summit—Prairie—Lakes—Groves—Bluffs—Cantine Creek—St. Louis in distance—Neighbouring Earth-heaps—The Well—Interior of the Mound—The Monastery of La Trappe—AbbÉ Armand Rance—The Vows—A Quotation—Reign of Terror—Immigration of the Trappists—Their Buildings—Their Discipline—Diet—Health—Skill—Asylum Seminary—Worldly Charity—Palliation—A strange Spectacle 187

[xiv] XVI

Edwardsville—Site and Buildings—Land Mania—A "Down-east" Incident—Human Nature—The first Land Speculator—Castor-oil Manufacture—Outlines of Edwardsville—Collinsville—Route to Alton—Sultriness—The Alton Bluffs—A Panorama—Earth-heaps—Indian Graves—Upper Alton—Shurtliff College—Baptized Intelligence—Knowledge not Conservative—Greece—Rome—France—England—The Remedy 197

XVII

The Traveller's Whereabout—The Prairie in a Mist—Sense of Loneliness—The Backwoods Farmhouse—Structure—Outline—Western Roads—A New-England Emigrant—The "Barrens"—Origin of Name—Soil—The "Sink-holes"—The Springs—Similar in Missouri and Florida—"Fount of Rejuvenescence"—Ponce de Leon—"Sappho's Fount"—The Prairies—First View—The Grass—Flowers—Island-groves—A Contrast—Prairie-farms—A Buck and Doe—A Kentucky Pioneer—Events of Fifty Years—The "Order Tramontane"—Expedition of Gov. Spotswood—The Change—A Thunderstorm on the Prairies—"A Sharer in the Tempest"—Discretionary Valour 207

XVIII

Morning after the Storm—The Landscape—The sprinkled Groves—Nature in unison with the Heart—The Impress of Design—Contemplation of grand Objects elevates—Nature and the Savage—Nature and Nature's God—Earth praises God—Indifference and Ingratitude of Man—"All is very Good"—Influence of Scenery upon Character—The Swiss Mountaineer—Bold Scenery most Impressive—Freedom among the Alps—Caucasus—Himmalaya—Something to Love—Carlinville—"Grand Menagerie"—A Scene—The Soil—The Inn—Macoupin Creek—Origin of Name—A Vegetable—An Indian Luxury—Carlinville—Its Advantages and Prospects—A "Fourth-of-July" Oration—The thronging Multitudes—The huge Cart—A Thunder-storm—A Log-cabin—Women and Children—Outlines of the Cabin—The Roof and Floor—The Furniture and Dinner-pot—A Choice of Evils—The Pathless Prairie 219

[xv] XIX

Ponce de Leon—The Fount of Youth—The "Land of Flowers"—Ferdinand de Soto—"El Padre de los Aguas"—The Canadian Voyageurs—"La Belle RiviÈre"—Sieur La Salle—"A Terrestrial Paradise"—Daniel Boone—"Old Kentucke"—"The Pilgrim from the North"—Sabbath Morning—The Landscape—The Grass and Prairie-flower—Nature at Rest—Sabbath on the Prairie—Alluvial Aspect of the Prairies—The Soil—Lakes—Fish—The Annual Fires—Origin—A Mode of Hunting—Captain Smith—Mungo Park—Hillsborough—Major-domo of the Hostelrie—His Garb and Proportions—The Presbyterian Church—Picturesqueness—The "Luteran Church"—Practical Utility—The Dark Minister—A Mistake—The Patriotic Dutchman—A Veritable Publican—Prospects of Hillsborough—A Theological Seminary—Route to Vandalia—The Political Sabbath 230

XX

The Race of Vagabonds—"Yankee Enterprise"—The Virginia Emigrant—The Western Creeks and Bridges—An Adventure in Botany—Unnatural Rebellion—Christian Retaliation—Vandalia—"First Impressions"—The Patriotic Bacchanal—The High-priest—A Distinction Unmerited—The Cause—Vandalia—Situation—Public Edifices—Square—Church—Bank—Land-office—"Illinois Magazine"—Tardy Growth—Removal of Government—Adventures of the First Legislators—The Northern Frontier—Magic of Sixteen Years—Route to Carlisle—A Buck and Doe—An old Hunter—"Hurricane Bottom"—Night on the Prairies—The Emigrant's Bivouac—The Prairie-grass—Carlisle—Site—Advantages—Growth—"Mound Farm" 238

XXI

The Love of Nature—Its Delights—The Wanderer's Reflections—The Magic Hour—A Sunset on the Prairies—"The Sunny Italy"—The Prairie Sunset—Route to Lebanon—Silver Creek—Origin of Name—The "Looking-glass Prairie"—The Methodist Village—Farms—Country Seats—Maize-fields—Herds—M'Kendreean College—"The Seminary!"—Route to Belleville—The Force of Circumstance—A Contrast—Public [xvi] Buildings—A lingering Look—Route to St. Louis—The French Village—The Coal Bluffs—Discovery of Coal—St. Clair County—Home of Clouds—Realm of Thunder—San Louis 248

XXII

Single Blessedness—Text and Comment—En Route—North St. Louis—A Delightful Drive—A Delightful Farm-cottage—The Catholic University—A Stately Villa—Belle Fontaine—A Town plat—A View of the Confluence—The Human Tooth—The Hamlet of Florissant—Former Name—Site—Buildings—Church—Seminary—Tonish—Owen's Station—Scenery upon the Route—La CharbonniÈre—The Missouri Bottom—The Forest-Colonnade—The Missouri—Its Sublimity—Indian Names—Its Turbid Character—Cause—An Inexplicable Phenomenon—Theories—Navigation Dangerous—Floods of the Missouri—Alluvions—Sources of the Missouri and Columbia—Their Destinies—Human Life—The Ocean of Eternity—Gates of the Rocky Mountains—Sublimity—A Cataract—The Main Stream—Claims stated 257

[iii] XXIII

View of St. Charles and the Missouri—The Bluffs—"A stern round Tower"—Its Origin—The Windmill—A sunset Stroll—Rural Sights and Sounds—The River and Forest—The Duellist's Grave—The Hour and Scene—Requiescat—Reflections—Duelling—A sad Event—Young B——.—His Request—His Monument—"Blood Island"—Its Scenes and Annals—A visit to "Les Mamelles"—The Forest-path—Its Obscurity—Outlines of the Bluffs—Derivation of Name—Position—Resemblance—The Missouri Bluffs—View from The Mamelle—The Missouri Bottom—The Mamelle Prairie—The distant Cliffs and Confluences—Extent of Plain—Alluvial Origin—Lakes—Bed of the Rivers—An ancient Deposite 268

XXIV

St. Charles—Its Origin—Peculiarities—Early Name—Spanish Rule—Heterogeneous Population—Germans—The Wizard Spell—American Enterprise—Site of the Village—Prospects—The Baltimore Settlement—Catholic Religion and Institutions—"St. Charles College"—The Race of Hunters—A Specimen—The Buffalo—Indian Atrocities—The "Rangers"—Daniel Boone—"Too Crowded!"—The "Regulators"—Boone's Lick—His Decease—His Memory—The Missouri Indians—The Stoccade Fort—Adventure of a Naturalist—Route from St. Charles—A Prairie without a Path—Enormous Vegetation—The Cliffs—The Column of Smoke—Perplexity—A delightful Scene—A rare Flower—The Prairie Flora in Spring—In Summer—In Autumn—The Traveller loiters 276

[iv] XXV

Novel Feature of the Mamelle Prairie—A Footpath—An old French Village—Bewilderment—Mystery—A Guide—Portage des Sioux—Secluded Site—Advantages—"Common Field"—Garden-plats—A brick Edifice—A courteous Welcome—An amiable Personage—History of the Village—Origin—Earthquakes—Name—An Indian Legend—Teatable Talk—Patois of the French Villages—An Incident!—A Scene!—A civil Hint—A Night of Beauty—The Flush of Dawn—The weltering Prairie—The Forest—The river Scene—The Ferry-horn—Delay—Locale of Grafton—Advantages and Prospects 288

XXVI

Cave in the Grafton Cliffs—Outlines—Human Remains—Desecration of the Coopers—View from the Cave's Mouth—The Bluffs—Inclined Planes—The Railroad—A Stone-heap—A beautiful Custom—Veneration for the Dead—The Widow of Florida—The Canadian Mother—The Orientals—An extensive View—The River—The Prairie—The Emigrant Farm—The Illinois—A tortuous Route—Macoupin Settlement—Carrolton—Outlines of a Western Village—Religious Diversity—An agricultural Village—Whitehall—The Emigrant Family en route—A Western Village—Its rapid Growth—Fit Parallels—Manchester—The Scarcity of Timber not an insurmountable Obstacle—Substitutes—Morgan County—Prospects—Soil of the Prairies—Adaptation to coarse Grains—Rapid Population—New-England Immigrants—The Changes of a few Years—Environs of Jacksonville—Buildings of "Illinois College"—The Public Square 295

XXVII

Remark of Horace Walpole—A Word from the Author—Jacksonville—Its rapid Advancement—Its Site—Suburbs—Public Square—Radiating Streets—The Congregational Church—The Pulpit—A pleasant Incident—The "New-England of the West"—Immigrant Colonies—"Illinois College"—The Site—Buildings—"Manual Labour System"—The Founders—Their Success—Their Fame—Jacksonville—Attractions for the Northern Emigrant—New England Character—A faithful [v] Transcript—"The Pilgrim Fathers"—The "Stump"—Mr. W. and his Speech—Curious Surmisings—Internal Improvements—Route to Springfield—A "Baptist Circuit-rider"—An Evening Prairie-rider 305

XXVIII

The Nature of Man—Facilities for its Study—A Pilgrimage of Observation—Dissection of Character, Physical and Moral—The young Student—The brighter Features of Humanity—An unwitting Episode—Our World a Ruin—Sunrise on the Prairies—Springfield—Its Location—Advantages—Structures—Society—Prospects—The Sangamon River—Its Navigation—Bottom-lands—Aged Forests—Cathedral Pomp—A splendid Phenomenon—Civic Honours—"Sic itur ad astra!"—A Morning Ride—"Demands of Appetite"—"Old Jim"—A tipsy Host—A revolting Exhibition—Jacob's Cattle and the Prairie-wolves—An Illinois Table—The Staples—A Tea Story—Poultry and Bacon—Chicken Fixens and Common Doins—An Object of Commiseration 315

XXIX

The Burial-ground—A holy Spot—Our culpable Indifference—Cemeteries in our Land—A sad Reflection—The last Petition—Reverence for the Departed—Civilized and Savage Nations—The last Resting-place—Worthy of Thought—A touching Expression of the Heart—Franklin—The Object of Admiration and Love—The Burial-ground of Decatur—The dying Emigrant—The Spirit's Sympathy—A soothing Reflection to Friends—The "Grand Prairie"—The "Lost Rocks"—Decatur—Site and Prospects—A sunset Scene—The Prairie by Moonlight—The Log-cabin—The Exotic of the Prairie—The Heart—The Thank-offering—The Pre-emption Right—The Mormonites—Their Customs—Millennial Anticipations—The Angelic Visitant—The dÉnouÉment—The Miracle!—The System of "New Light"—Its Rise and Fall—Aberrations of the Mind—A melancholy Reflection—Absurdity of Mormonism 325

XXX

A wild Night—An Illusion—Sleeplessness—Loneliness—A Storm-wind on the Prairies—A magnificent Scene—Beauty of [vi] the lesser Prairies—Nature's chef d'oeuvre—Loveliness lost in Grandeur—Waves of the Prairie—Ravines—Light and Shade—"Alone, alone, all, all alone!"—Origin of the Prairie—Argument for Natural Origin—Similar Plains—Derivation of "Prairie"—Absence of Trees accounted for—The Diluvial Origin—Prairie Phenomena explained—The Autumnal Fires—An Exception—The Prairie sui generis—No Identity with other Plains—A Bed of the Ocean—A new Hypothesis—Extent of Prairie-surface—Characteristic Carelessness—Hunger and Thirst—A tedious Jaunt—Horrible Suggestions!—Land ho!—A Log-cabin—Hog and Honey 338

XXXI

Cis-atlantic Character—Avarice—Curiosity—A grand Propellant—A Concomitant and Element of Mental Vigour—An Anglo-American Characteristic—Inspection and Supervision—"Uncle Bill"—The Quintessence of Inquisitiveness—A Fault "on Virtue's Side"—The People of Illinois—A Hunting Ramble—A Shot—Tempis fugit—Shelbyville—Dame Justice in Terrorem—A Sulphur Spring—The Inn Register—Chill Atmosphere of the Forest—Contrast on the Prairie—The "Green-head" Prairie-fly—Effect upon a Horse—Numerous in '35—The "Horse-guard"—The Modus Bellandi—Cold Spring—A presuming Host—Musty Politics—The Robin Redbreast—Ornithology of the West—The Turtle-dove—Pathos of her Note—Paley's Remark—Eloquence of the Forest-bird—A Mormonite, Zionward—A forensic Confabulation—Mormonism Developed—The seduced Pedagogue—Mount Zion Stock—The Grand Tabernacle—Smith and Rigdom—The Bank—The Temple—The School—Appearance of Smith—Of Rigdom—Their Disciples—The National Road—Its Progress—Structure—Terminus—Its enormous Character—A Contrast—"Shooting a Beeve"—The Regulations—Salem—A New-England Seaport—The Location—The Village Singing-school—The Major 348

XXXII

Rest after Exertion—A Purpose—"Mine Ease in mine Inn"—The "Thread of Discourse"—A Thunder-gust—Its Approach and Departure—A Bolt—A rifted Elm—An impressive [vii] Scene—Gray's Bard—Mount Vernon—Courthouse—Site—Medicinal Water—A misty Morning—A blind Route—"Muddy Prairie"—Wild Turkeys—Something Diabolical!—The direct Route—A vexatious Incident—The unerring Guide—A Tug for a Fixen—An evening Ride—Pinkneyville—Outlines and Requisites—The blood-red Jail—The Traveller's Inn—"'Tis true, and Pity 'tis"—A "Soul in Purgatory"—An unutterable Ill—Incomparable—An unpitied and unenviable Situation—A laughable Bewilderment—Host and Hostess—The Mischief of a Smile—A Retaliation 362