The Grand Trunk Railway—Sarnia—"Confusion worse confounded"—A Churlish
Hostess—Fellow-Passengers on the Manitoba—"Off at
last!"—Musical Honours—Sunrise on Lake Huron—A Scramble for
Breakfast—An Impromptu Dance—The General Foe.

CHAPTER II.

Saulte Ste. Marie—Indian Embroidery—Lake Superior—Preaching, Singing,
and Card-playing—Silver Islet—Thunder Bay—The Dog River—Flowers at
Fort William—"Forty Miles of Ice"—Icebergs and Warm
Breezes—Duluth—Hotel Belles—Bump of Destructiveness in Porters.

CHAPTER III.

The Mississippi—The Rapids—Aerial Railway Bridges—Breakfast at
Braynor—Lynch Law—Card-sharpers—Crowding in the Cars—Woman's
Rights!—The Prairie—"A Sea of Fire"—Crookstown—Fisher's
Landing—Strange Quarters—"The Express-man's Bed"—Herding like
Sheep—On board the Minnesota.

CHAPTER IV.

Red Lake River—Grand Forks—The Ferry—Custom-house Officers at
Pembina—Mud and Misery—Winnipeg at last—A Walk through the
Town—A Hospitable Welcome—Macadam wanted—Holy Trinity Church—A
Picturesque Population—Indians shopping—An "All-sorts" Store—St.
Boniface and its Bells—An Evening Scene.

CHAPTER V.

Summer Days—The English Cathedral—Icelandic
Emigrants—Tableaux—In chase of our Dinner—The Indian
Summer—Blocked up—Gigantic Vegetables—Fruitfulness of the
Country—Iceland Maidens—Rates of Wages—Society at
Winnipeg—Half-castes—Magic of the Red River Water—A Happy
Hunting-ground—Where is Manitoba?

CHAPTER VI.

Winter Amusements—A Winnipeg Ball—Forty Degrees below Zero—New Year's
Day—"Saskatchewan Taylor"—Indian Compliments—A Dog-train—Lost in the
Snow—Amateur Theatricals—Sir Walter Raleigh's Hat—A Race with the
Freshets—The Ice moves!—The First Steamer of the Season—Good-bye to
Winnipeg.

CHAPTER VII.

A Manitoban Travelling-carriage—The Perils of Short Cuts—The Slough of
Despond—Paddy to the Rescue!—"Stick-in-the-Mud" and his
Troubles—McQuade's—An Irish Welcome—Wretched Wanderers.

CHAPTER VIII.

Faithless Jehu—The "Blarney Stone"—Mennonites in search of
News—"Water, Water everywhere"—A Herd of Buffaloes—A Mud
Village—Pointe du ChÊne and Old Nile—At Dawson Route—A Cheerful
Party—Toujours perdrix—The "Best Room"—A Government Shanty—Cats
and Dogs—Birch River—Mushroom-picking—The Mosquito Plague—A Corduroy
Road—The Cariboo Muskeg.

CHAPTER IX.

The "Nor'-west Angle"—The Company's House—Triumph of "Stick-in-the-Mud"—On the Lake of the Woods—A Gallant Cook—Buns À l'imprevu—A Man overboard!—Camping out—Clear Water Bay—Our First Portage—A Noble Savage—How Lake Rice and Lake Deception won their Names—At our Journey's End.

CHAPTER X.

Making a New Home—CarriÈre's Kitchen—The Navvies' Salle-À-Manger—A
Curious Milking Custom—Insect Plagues—Peterboro' Canoes—Fishing
Trips—Mail-day—Indian dread of drowning—The Indian Mail-carrier and
his Partner—Talking by Telegraph—Prairie Fires.

CHAPTER XI.

Irish Wit—Bears?—Death on the Red Pine Lake—A Grave in the Catholic
Cemetery—The First Dog train—A Christmas FÊte—Compulsory
Temperance—Contraband Goods—The Prisoner wins the Day—Whisky on the
Island—The Smuggler turned Detective—A Fatal Frolic—"Mr. K——'s Legs".

CHAPTER XII.

Birds of Passage—An Independent Swede—By Sleigh to Ostersund—A Son of
the Forest—Burnt out—A Brave Canadian Girl—Roughing it in the
Shanty—The Kitchen-tent—Blasting the Rock—The Perils of
Nitro-glycerine—Bitter Jests.

CHAPTER XIII.

We lose our Cows—Cahill promoted—Gardening on a New Principle—Onions in Hot-houses—Cahill is hoaxed—Martin the Builder—How the Navvies lived—Sunday in Camp—The Cook's Leap—That "Beautiful Skunk!"—Wild Fruits—Parting.

CHAPTER XIV.

For Ostersund—Lake Lulu—Giant Rocks and Pigmy Mortals—The Island
Garden—Heaven's Artillery—Strange Casualty at the Ravine—My Luggage
nearly blown up—The Driver's Presence of Mind—How to carry a
Canoe—Darlington Bay—An Invisible Lake—Lord and Lady Dufferin—A
Paddle to the Lakes—The Captain's Tug—Monopoly of
Water-carriage—Indian Legends—The Abode of Snakes.

CHAPTER XV.

Clear Water Bay transformed—Cahill's Farewell—Ptarmigan Bay—A Night
under Canvas—"No more Collars or Neckties!"—Companions in
Misfortune—Cedar Lake—"Lop-sticks"—An Indian Village—Shashegheesh's
Two Wives—Buying Potatoes—Seniores Priores—Excellent
Carrots!—Frank's Flirtations with the Squaws—The Dogs eat CarriÈre's
Toboggan.

CHAPTER XVI.

Falcon River—An Unlucky Supper—The Fate of our Fried Pork—A Weary
Paddle—A Sundial in the Wilderness—A Gipsy Picnic—"Floating away"—The
Dried Musk-rats—Falcon Lake—How can we land?—Mr. M—— "in
again"—Surprised by Indians—How we dried our Clothes—The Last Night in
Camp.

CHAPTER XVII.

Indian Loyalty—A Nap on Falcon Lake—A False Alarm—The Power of
Whisky—"Magnificent Water Stretches"—A Striking Contrast—Picnic
Lake—How we crossed Hawk Lake—Long Pine Lake—Bachelors' Quarters at
Ingolf—We dress for Dinner—Our Last Portage—A Rash Choice—"Grasp
your Nettle"—Mr. F——'s Gallantry—Cross Lake—Denmark's Ranche—A
Tramp through the Mire.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Tilford—Pedestrians under Difficulties—The Railway at last—Not exactly
a First-class Carriage—The Jules Muskeg—Whitemouth and Broken-Head
Rivers—Vagaries of the Engine-Driver—The Hotel at St. Boniface—Red
River Ferry—Winnipeg—"A Vagabond Heroine"—The Terrier at fault.

CHAPTER XIX.

The Minnesota again—Souvenirs of Lord and Lady Dufferin—From
Winnipeg by Red River—Compagnons du Voyage—A Model
Farm—"Bees"—Manitoba a good Field for Emigrants—Changes at Fisher's
Landing—A Mild Excitement for Sundays—Racing with Prairie
Fires—Glyndon—Humours of a Pullman Sleeping Car—Lichfield.

CHAPTER XX.

Lakes Smith and Howard—Lovely Lake Scenery—Long Lake—The Little
American—"Wait till you see our Minnetaunka!"—Minneanopolis—Villa
Hotels—A Holiday Town—The Great Flour-mills—St. Paul's—Our American
Cousins—The French Canadian's Story—Kind-hearted Fellow-passengers—A
New Way of Travelling together—The Mississippi—Milwaukee, the Prettiest
Town in Michigan—School-houses—A Peep at Chicago—Market
Prices—Pigs!—The Fairy Tales of Progress—Scotch Incredulity—Detroit
Ferry—Hamilton—Good-bye to my Readers.