After various excursions and much deliberation, we fixed upon a small estate, comprising an excellent dwelling-house, with out-offices, and above fifty acres of land, delightfully situated on Long Island, and within about twenty-five miles from New York. This was the most delightful residence, both for beauty of situation and internal convenience that I ever inhabited, but with all its attractions, it was the scene of my severest afflictions.

The agreeable change from city to country at the delightful season of spring, made the first few weeks pass away most pleasantly. In this quarter of the globe, winter reigns with undisputed sway, from the first day of November to the last of April. At the close of this period, nature, refreshed by so long a repose and enlivened by the genial warmth of the sun, throws off the sombre robe of winter, and suddenly appears clad in her most lovely attire. Birds of gay plumage resembling those of the tropics, with woodland flowers of all hues, and the bright foliage of the forest trees, simultaneously spring into existence with a rapidity that with us, would be considered miraculous. As an instance, I distinctly remember the buds of the trees being firmly closed on the 28th of April, and on the 12th of the following May, the foliage of the whole of them was as fully developed as in the midst of summer.

Strictly speaking, the American spring is confined to the first fortnight in May. It is a most delightful season, but sadly too short. Birds, such as for beauty, I never before saw at large, enliven the scenery with their bright plumage. Choice flowers, thick and numberless “as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks in Vallombrosa” are here seen, with their rich colours enhancing each others charms by a beauteous contrast. While myriads of butterflies, not the small pale coloured things of northern Europe, but creatures with wings of uncommon size and beauty, contribute their share to increase this fund of pleasure. Neither pen nor pencil can do justice to the landscape scenery at this period, viewed as it is, through the medium of a clear atmosphere, that imparts a glowing warmth and renders the whole truly enchanting.

Every rose has its thorn, and the same bright sun that calls into existence these beauties, awakens also swarms of serpents and venomous reptiles of every kind. The bite of some of these is attended with distressing circumstances, and others among them, such as the black serpent and the copper-headed viper, have been known to inflict mortal wounds. I believe I am not whimsically affected, yet I could never look upon these dreadful creatures without shuddering, as they wriggled their way in odious contortions just from before my feet. The caution required to avoid stepping upon them, and the fear of some that are known to pursue the human species, greatly detracted from the pleasure of my woodland rambles; and, like the sword impending over the head of Damocles, dashed all my rural pleasure with fearful apprehension.

One day while walking in the garden, I narrowly escaped a bite from a black serpent, which our man-servant afterwards succeeding in killing; its skin was variegated with all the darker shades of different colours beautifully arranged: it measured five feet two inches in length. After this, I was determined to walk in no other than a clear path.

About the latter part of May the heat of the sun becomes oppressive. Then, farewell to pleasure. Clouds of musquitoes are ushered into existence, and myriads of flies fill every room. Now our dress, and almost our lives, become burthensome, we fan ourselves from morning to night and feel for those who are not blessed with an ice-house. Although the common flies are extremely numerous, they bear no proportion to the musquitoes in point of annoyance. These are considered as minor evils by some persons, but as respects myself, the sharp stinging wounds inflicted by the latter, will not be very soon forgotten. I was confined to the house under medical treatment for a fortnight, in consequence of a bite I received from a musquito. Certainly this is a singular case; but still it furnishes a proof of their noxious powers. I have often been told, that in their visitations, they respect the persons of those who are accustomed to drink largely of rum; but to the truth of this assertion my eyes and understanding refused their assent. Ablution in this liquor, it is true, is very grateful after enduring a day’s campaign with them; and as a lotion for allaying the pain produced by these insects, it is certainly useful.

With the hot weather comes thunder and lightning, and rain. The latter invariably falls in torrents, and if the wheat grew as high and as heavy in the ear as with us, it certainly could never arrive at maturity. A transatlantic thunder storm is truly sublime and terrible. The sky first becomes covered with black clouds, the wind blows violently, the clouds suddenly expand, and emit what appears to be a broad stream of liquid fire; the thunder instantaneously bursts forth with a crash, that I suppose, all the artillery in the world could not equal. This is usually repeated twice or thrice, and the storm exhausted by its own violence, is suddenly succeeded by a delightful calm. Æolus rends the vail of black clouds from the face of the sun, which now seems to shine with increasing heat and splendour; while the earth, being previously parched with excessive heat, and now suddenly deluged with torrents of rain, emits clouds of vapour, that for a short time envelope the landscape in a dense fog. This is quickly dispersed by the excessive heat of the sun; the arid earth again thirsts for moisture, and we soon forget the storm. The opinion prevailing in Europe respecting the salubrity of the United States, is more favourable than an examination will warrant. My remarks on this subject are the result of a patient and most painful investigation, aided by experience, alas, too dearly purchased. I shall confine my observations on the climate to the first summer we passed in America, and the succeeding winter; which, from being more uniform than the last year, are less liable to objection. The state of the thermometer and the variations of the winds, I select from a diary kept by my husband during our residence in the United States. The greatest heat this summer was a hundred and five degrees. From mid-day to five in the afternoon, during the months of July, August, and September, the thermometer ranged between ninety and a hundred degrees—seldom above the latter, and in very few instances below the former; while the universal stillness of the air, rendered the heat quite as overpowering, and even more so, than the state of the index warrants us to suppose.

The climate, and its effects upon the constitution, are always distasteful subjects to the Americans. They cannot subscribe to any other doctrine, than that which recommends theirs as the most salubrious climate in the world. This is asserted by them with as much confidence as if it were a self-evident truth; and all who dispute it, are in danger of being overwhelmed by a torrent of displeasure. A physician paid us a visit one broiling day in July, and certainly did acknowledge that it was then hot—but, checking himself, he observed, “that the heat was nothing to speak of—just fair summer weather—hotter, no doubt than in England—but the perfection of summer.” We observed that the heat had, for some days past, been above ninety-six degrees in the shade. As we expected, he manifested symptoms of incredulity, which however, we soon dispelled by referring him to the thermometer, then standing at ninety-eight degrees. In the absence of positive proof like this, they will endeavour to evade the question in any way, rather than submit to acknowledge any fact that would jeopardize the character of their climate. And truly it is admirable, if a Jamaica summer succeeded by a Moscow winter, under one parallel, be acknowledged the standard of perfection.

I discovered to my sorrow, that the morning air here is not so wholesome as in England; on the contrary, it is considered most pernicious. This greatly perplexed me in selecting the best time for a walk. The physician had interdicted the matutinal breezes—the mid-day was not to be thought of—and the evening gales were very unwholesome, and frequently as deadly and chill as the breath of the death angel. There are no cool evenings here in the summer as with us, so refreshing and so pleasant, in which we may luxuriate in all the delights of an evening’s ramble. While the sun is above the horizon, he blazes away with insufferable heat, and his descent is mostly succeeded by a chillness that resembles the icy hand of death to the feelings, and frequently is such in reality to those who are often exposed to its influence. The sudden vicissitudes of the atmosphere, I consider the most dangerous feature of the whole affair; for, incredible as it may appear, the mercury has fallen from ninety-five to fifty-six degrees in the short space of three hours. A variation of twenty or twenty-five degrees, in the same period, is by no means an uncommon occurrence.

The houses in the country are almost universally formed of wood, the best of them are faced with shingles (thin plates of cedar,) neatly painted: these are by no means deficient in comfort. For the sake of coolness in summer, they are so constructed as to furnish a shaded walk on both sides: and when flowers are trained to climb up the pillars, the whole has a very pleasing appearance.

During the hours of mid-day, no work can be done in the fields by the white men; the “hands” therefore, return home and doze away the time in the out offices, and work early and late in order to atone for their meridian slumber.

The city is preferable as a place of residence during the heat of summer. The neat awnings that shelter the whole of the side walks prove an agreeable protection from the powerful influence of the sun’s rays, when it is necessary to go from the doors. During the hottest part of the day little is done by the gentlemen, besides loitering about, reading the newspapers, and drinking iced punch, and other mysterious compounds; while the ladies, reclining on the sofas fan themselves, drink lemonade, and doze. Business transactions of all kinds occupy the early hours of the morning; then the ice carts perambulate the city, and provisions for the day are procured. After mid-day the streets are deserted; those who have leisure, retire to doze away the hours; the shopkeeper closes his doors and slumbers behind the counter; a solemn stillness reigns, and the city seem forsaken and desolate.

The twilight is of very short duration, and the setting sun is succeeded by a greater state of darkness than with us; but, as a compensation, the moonlight appears clearer and much brighter, and in winter, it is truly delightful.

The scorching summer usually terminates with September; and is succeeded by a month of the most charming weather I ever experienced. This is October—the American autumn. Now the sun’s dreaded rays lay aside a portion of their fiery force, the forest trees begin to change the hue of their leaves, and, instead of green, nature’s universal livery, colours of all shades gradually appear, from the dark purple to the lightest yellow. The immense variety of trees accounts for the many coloured foliage, and if variety be charming, it is here beheld in perfection—not merely the sombre tints seen at the same season in an English coppice—but purple, red, brown, and every colour that can be produced on the palette of the artist.

This is likewise the season for abundance. Apples, the finest in the world, peaches, melons, and fruit of every kind that grace the orchard, are produced in such profusion, that even in the city they are sold for very little more than the expense of their carriage. Maze, which is here cultivated with singular care and judgement, is now seen in every direction, waving its purple tassels in the breeze; and imparting a peculiar character to the landscape scenery.

The iron reign of winter usually commences about the middle of November. From that time till the last days of April the weather is excessively cold, but the atmosphere it must be allowed, is delightfully clear and pleasant to the eye. Were it a matter of choice, and were I doomed to live in America, I should certainly prefer a perpetual winter, cold as it is, to the broiling summer and its extreme variations, with their dreaded consequences.

The lowest point of the thermometer this winter was three degrees below zero. This was in January, but for several days it was below ten degrees, and for weeks, it seldom rose higher than eighteen. Although the cold in winter is very severe, still very little rain falls; or I should rather say, rain seldom falls; but hail, sleet, and snow comes plentifully in storms of considerable duration. In the absence of these the air is cold indeed, but delightfully pure and translucent.

The changes of the thermometer in winter are neither so sudden nor so rapid as in summer, but the winds are as fickle then, as during any period of the year. Those from the north and the west are equally cold, and the north-west wind is dreaded in winter more than any other. Frequently the wind will suddenly veer from a particular point of the compass to the one diametrically opposite. I never knew this to take place in England.

According to what I have advanced, the greatest heat during this year was 105°, and the greatest cold 3° below zero; the extreme variation therefore, will be 108°. Hence it appears, that during the summer, New York, which is situated about 40° of latitude, endures the heat of Egypt or Arabia, and, in winter, the cold of Stockholm or Petersburg. Nor is this all, for in no part of the old world, are the diurnal vicissitudes of the atmosphere either so sudden or in such extremes. Petersburg is cold in winter and cool in summer: Egypt is never absolutely cold—but the climate of the eastern shores of North America is ever variable, and alone uniform in unwholesomeness.

The miasma produced by the heat of the sun, from the vegetable matter deposited in the numberless marshes, that every where abound in an uncleared country, is another fruitful source of disease. Then there are sicknesses arising from local causes. With a climate marked by such extremes of temperature, and vicissitudes so sudden, combined with the pestilential effluvia arising from vegetable decomposition, there can be no wonder if America is one of the most unhealthy places in the world.

Had I been in possession of these facts before I crossed the Atlantic, I should no doubt have concluded as I am now compelled to do, by dear-bought experience; but no work that I could meet with was sufficiently explicit on this point; all the information I could collect was delivered in terms too vague and indefinite to arrest the attention.

Many persons from Europe have visited the United States, for the prudential purpose of making an experiment, prior to their removal thither to spend the remainder of their days. They have, perhaps, landed just in the most healthy season of the year, and their attention being wholly engrossed by pecuniary matters, they entirely overlooked the subject of health. Attracted by novelty and charmed with the prospect, they have sent for their families and enrolled themselves as citizens; but a year’s experience, attended with a few fits of sickness, dispels the delusion, and convinces them, that the same country that appears so pleasant to the eye of a visiter, may present a different aspect when adopted for a permanent residence.

It is not my intention to dwell long in detailing the afflictions of my own family from ill health, but I cannot, with justice to my readers, omit all notice of this circumstance. We suffered the most in the country with the bilious fever, and the distressing attacks of the chills; but I am thankful to say, none of us sunk under these visitations. With the exception of one little girl, myself and my family consisting of five individuals, besides three servants, were all at the same time confined to our beds. Many of our neighbours were in the same condition as ourselves, and I fear some were far worse. No relief could, therefore, be expected from that quarter. Our medical attendant was himself at the point of death, and the attention of others was wholly engrossed by their own connections.

So general was the epidemic, that no doubt, numbers were lost for want of proper attention, and those few who were well, and from motives of commisseration or curiosity, were induced to pay us a short visit, entertained us with the peculiar distresses of a long list of the dying and the dead. I hourly expected some of us would bid adieu to this world, and then the most I could hope for, was a silent interment in unconsecrated ground, with no other requiem than the ocean’s deep moan as it laved the neighbouring shore, or the sighing of the breezes on the trees of the forest.

Providence, however, did not forsake us. One evening, a person chanced to call who knew my husband, and at his own suggestion, took our horse and wagon and went in quest of assistance. Contrary to our expectations, his exertions were crowned with success. He returned with a clever active American woman, to whom we were under great obligations, for she acted both as physician and nurse, and soon made us all as comfortable as circumstances would permit. From that day we began to recover, though it was months before the dreaded disorder entirely forsook us.

In contemplating the manners, customs, and affairs of this singular people, I am constrained to admit that there is much to admire, and many things worthy of commendation. Among these, the general character and circumstances of the great mass of the people stand prominently forth. In consequence of the high price of labour of every kind, and the comparative ease with which the essentials of life may be obtained, the very lowest of the people are well clad, and take a laudable pride in appearing clean and smart after the toil of the day is over. The theatre is the grand point of attraction for numbers; others assemble in reading rooms, or attend lectures, or religious meetings; taverns and spirit stores have their share of frequenters; while some few congregate to read and hear read the wisdom of Thomas Paine, and his coadjutors in the cause of infidelity. But, in justice it must be admitted, that very few prostrate their time to this latter purpose.

None of those ostensible instances of deep moral degradation, the wretched offspring of infamy and want, that force themselves, as it were, upon our notice in our densely populated cities, are to be met with here. Nor did I ever notice any of those extreme cases of abject destitution—so painful to contemplate, but still so numerous with us. In fact, during the whole period of my residence in the United States, I never saw the face of a single beggar.

There are no poor’s rates, and the few whom misfortune has rendered proper objects for eleemosynary aid, find refuge in alms-houses supported by voluntary contributions.

The universal diffusion of knowledge is another pleasing object of contemplation. Public schools are numerous and well supported; and as almost the whole population to a man, are ardently engaged in the promotion or pursuit of political schemes, of one kind or another, it would be a remarkable circumstance were their children incapable of reading the newspapers.

Another grand stimulant to exertion in educational matters, is to be found in the acquisitive disposition of the people, and their love of commercial enterprise. Stripling tradesmen are here to be met with in numbers, pushing their various undertakings with all the ardour and recklessness of youth, seconded by an hereditary thirst for gain. Hence, from one cause or another, I conceive it would be a very difficult matter to find in any part of the Union, a native-born American arrived at years of maturity, incapable of writing and keeping his accounts.

It were much to be wished that the planters in the south, and other slave-owners, would bestow some little care upon the instruction of those unfortunate beings, that the chances of power have consigned to their charge. Yet so far are they from encouraging even the commonest kind of instruction, that were the “schoolmaster abroad” here, he would be saluted with one clamourous war-whoop, throughout the whole of the slave states of this land of liberty. The legislators of Virginia in particular, have immortalized their humanity, by making it penal for any one to teach a negro to read, or to be found aiding, encouraging, or abetting in such an intellectual abomination!

Yet let me not be understood as speaking of the literature of the United States, in terms of unqualified praise. All their literary characters, who are considered clever by us, have reaped their laurels on British ground. As for the rest I can say very little. A few novels, written in the angels and despair style of Charlotte Smith, and two or three volumes of poetry were all that I ever saw. They are good things in their way—that is, good as opiates. I remember once to have been so scolded for speaking disrespectfully of one of their poets, that if I may be forgiven for the past I will do so no more.

But to resume the subject seriously, I think I am safe in asserting that there is no literature in the United States—or at least very little of sterling merit; whatever may be the pretensions of some. For surely the “things of a day” poured from the periodical press, in the form of newspapers and magazines cannot with propriety be called a nation’s literature.

And here let me observe, that the newspaper press of England is as far superior to that of the United States, as Scott’s historical novels are to the romances of the last century. It is also worthy of remark, that the American press is as far below the intellectual standard of their people, as the London press is above that of ours. Intelligence like money, with them is more equally distributed. The merchant and his clerk are generally on a par with respect to mental culture, while the porter in the warehouse is very few removes below either. On the other hand, profound scholars and men of great opulence are equally rare; and the nation may be said to be alike free from the influence of great capitalists and extreme destitution.

There is something pleasingly simple and patriarchal in the management of their rural affairs. The ploughing with oxen, and the use of these animals in treading out corn, forcibly reminds us of the scenes and usages in scripture history. The alacrity with which the natives combine to assist a widow, a poor neighbour, or a stranger, deserves to be recorded in terms of the highest commendation.

As an illustration of the above remark,—suppose a farmer, from some one of the many causes of affliction to which all are liable, becomes incapable of cultivating his land. His neighbours repair to his house by appointment, with their oxen and implements; turn into his fields, and plough, sow, and harrow every acre on his farm that requires these operations. At the conclusion of their labours, they refresh themselves, if their friend be able to make suitable provision for such a number; if not, they return contentedly home, satisfied with the consciousness of having performed a meritorious action.

If their united assistance be required in harvesting the crop, it is cheerfully given; and he who ill-naturedly withholds his aid, subjects himself to the eternal ban of the whole community. On one occasion of this nature, I saw nineteen ploughs at work in one field. Nothing displays the American character in so benevolent a point of view, as this unity of co-operation in cheerfully assisting those, whom misfortune has deprived of the power of assisting themselves.

That equivocal species of blessing, cheap law, is another of those peculiarities that forcibly arrests the attention of strangers. The lawyers are here a host, surpassing in number the military, naval, and police forces united. They comprise men of all shades of talent and character, from the very highest to, alas, the very, very lowest. Doubtless, as with us, they look upon their clients as tradesmen do upon their customers, as a source of profit and honourable competition. But in a nation of obstinate sticklers for trifles, where almost every tenth man is a lawyer, and where a cause may be tried for ten dollars, there is reason to fear that sharpness is sometimes thrust a little beyond the verge of honesty by some, despite the profession being gilded with the flattering distinction of honourable.

But the practitioners are not entirely to be blamed—the principle is objectionable. Should any desire to witness the developement of the cheap law system, in all the glories of its confusion, he may behold it here. Suits at law are perpetually throwing the peace of even rural society into convulsions. Causes are tried and re-tried, till the expences stop the current of litigation, which a wholesome view, at the onset, of heavy costs in perspective, would have prevented from flowing.

Many of the small country justices or “squires” as they are here called, are elected to the office, without any regard to their legal knowledge or intellectual capabilities. The voice of party frequently raises these Daniels to the judgement seat; and as they obtain a criminal bonus upon every cause, their desire to promote litigation has never been called into question. The consequence of all this is, that the law, from being placed within the reach of every one, is become a powerful promoter of discord, and actions are commenced to gratify the malevolence of some, or the oppression of others, while hatred, malice, and uncharitableness are the certain result.