Fires are here alarmingly numerous, and frequently of unprecedented magnitude. The firemen are a body of volunteers amounting to between three and four hundred. They are viewed by their fellow citizens, as a class of respectable men; and as occupying a station somewhat similar to our local cavalry. They spend their time in the execution of their arduous duties, and supply their own clothes, without receiving any remuneration, except the municipal privileges with which they are rewarded at the completion of their septennial term of servitude. I endeavoured to discover, if possible, what was the chief cause of these fires; but could arrive at no positive conclusion on the subject. I conceive the half smoked cigars, so plentifully disseminated in every direction, by men and boys of all ages, conditions, and colours, may be one reason; and I know of no other, unless it be the carelessness naturally produced by the eternal use of the spirit decanter.

The rates and premiums of Insurance companies are perhaps higher here than in any other part of the world; yet, in consequence of the numerous demands made upon them, these public bodies are continually failing. Custom reconciles us to all things; and fires are here so common, that these good citizens have no idea of the sensations such calamities produce with us. I remember an English gentleman venturing to state in public company, that in a large market town near the place of his birth, he only recollected one fire occurring in the space of above twenty years. I myself have no doubt of the truth of this assertion; yet it was received by those present, with marks of suspicion so glaringly evident, that I felt sorry that the narrator had hazarded his credit for veracity, without calculating upon the chances against producing proof.

Strange as it may appear, during our residence in New York and in the country, I never heard any well authenticated case of death occasioned by any of these fires: although first from motives of humanity, and afterwards, from curiosity, we constantly subjected this matter to a very close investigation. This appeared to me the more astonishing, because it is well known that in Europe, loss of life is too frequently the melancholy concomitant of these awful visitations.

I noticed some of their many fire engines; they are very handsome, and very, very small. They are universally acknowledged to be more powerful than ours. Indeed, the good citizens are very loud in their praises, and claim the honour of some inventions or improvements connected with them; and I will not pluck a single leaf or acorn from their civic crown, for which they pay so dearly, but will cheerfully acknowledge that their engines are of superior construction, and are kept in better condition than any other in the world.

They have hit upon a very ingenious device to direct the firemen to that part of the city where their assistance is required. Those who first give the alarm hasten to the City Hall, whose site occupies the highest ground in the city. The heavy alarm bell is instantly rung, and its sound is re-echoed by most of the ting-tangs in the steeples. A ball of crimson glass, containing a light, is then immediately exposed at the very apex of the observatory on the hall; and its relative position to the cupola serves as an index to point out the direction of the fire.

It is impossible to convey an exact idea of the frequency and magnitude of these awful incidents. From the flat roof of our residence, one evening, I saw three fires at the same time; two of them appeared to be of considerable magnitude; the other was only an oil and turpentine store. This united demand upon the exertions of the firemen was very perplexing to all parties. The people at the City Hall were undecided in what direction to place their crimson index; and so, with a view of directing to all the three points, they kept perpetually shifting it. The firemen, consequently, altered their course, in a corresponding direction to that pointed out by the ball; till the confusion became general, and the fires raged so alarmingly, that fears were entertained for the safety of the city. At length, the municipal authorities sent messengers, who sought out the firemen and dispersed them in proper directions; and thus happily averted the dreadful consequences.

The removing of wooden houses with brick chimney-stacks, en masse, is so commonly effected here, that to question its practicability would be the height of absurdity: yet I understand, that even this is treated by us with ridicule, as being a matter beyond the range of human possibility. How then can I hope for belief, in asserting that there are substantial brick houses in the city of New York, that have been removed from one side of the street to the other, without in the least degree, impeding the diurnal arrangements of their respective occupants? I will make no such assertion—I will only state, that such houses have been pointed out to me, and described as having been removed from a station on the opposite side of the street; and I freely confess I am sufficiently weak to believe it. I shall therefore content myself with inserting one of the many advertisements I have seen, which I copy from the New York Gazette, now before me; and leave my readers to conclude as they think proper.

This removal of houses reminds me of the removal of household furniture, which annually takes place on the first of May. By an established custom, houses are let from this day for the term of one year certain; and, as the inhabitants in general love variety, and seldom reside in the same house for two consecutive years, those who have to change, which appears to be nearly the whole city, must be all removing together. Hence, from the peep of day till twilight, may be seen carts which go at a rate of speed astonishingly rapid, laden with furniture of every kind, racing up and down the city, as if its inhabitants were flying from a pestilence, pursued by death with his broad scythe just ready to mow them into eternity.

I found the negroes much more numerous, and presenting a much better appearance than I ever expected; and I am happy to say, that although still retained in bondage in the Southern States, they are all now free in this and the five New England States, and have been so for upwards of fifteen years. They invariably excite a feeling of deep interest in the minds of all Europeans. But I beheld, with acute sensations of sorrow, their late task-masters regarding them with feelings of hatred mingled with contempt, and as a class far below the rest of the human species in point of moral rectitude and intellectual power. I was not prepared to find this in a nation who are taught to lisp, with their infantile breath, that monstrous falsehood—“All men are born free and equal.”

This maxim, the pole star of the republic, was first promulgated by Thomas Jefferson, whose writings are acknowledged by all Democrats as the standard of political authority. About the commencement of the present century this same Thomas Jefferson filled the office of President of the United States for the period of eight years; and his memory is still held in profound veneration by a large section of the Americans. Yet it is well known here, that this sublime character had, by his Quadroon slaves a vast number of children of both sexes; whom he retained on his plantation in a state of vassalage, and dying left them so!!

It is with no feelings of pleasure that I drag the crimes of this atrocious wretch before the public; but, I believe this fact is not known in England, and it may serve to give some idea of the charming things that are transacted in those regions of slavery, where both the framer and the violator of the law are found united in the person of the planter. Surely it may here be said, that licentiousness and tyranny have met together; democracy and slavery have kissed each other.

The existing slavery of these “free and independent” States, combined with the atrocious conduct of Jefferson, the progenitor of whole gangs of slaves, forms a beautiful comment on his favourite apopthegm—

“All men are born free and equal.”

An expression which declares precisely the same doctrine, occupies a prominent position in their national manifesto—the famous Declaration of Independence.

The projectors of this, their magna charta, must have known that this motto is founded on a fallacious basis, and will not endure the touchstone of common sense, particularly when applied to natal circumstances. Were the base-born progeny of that “illustrious champion of liberty”, Jefferson, born free, and endowed with privileges and advantages equal to the children of his amiable contemporary, Hamilton?[A] Or are the sons of those slaves who now groan in fetters in the southern States of this “land of liberty”, born free and invested with equal rights to the children of those Molochs, their masters? A common understanding revolts at the comparison. Away with such sophistry to the dark dominions of that being whence it emanated!

I regard this, not in a political point of view, but purely as a case of Liberty and Equality, versus Negro Slavery and Oppression. And were it not for the sake of humanity, I should have viewed the whole affair with indifference, and left the Americans to shout praises to the Goddess of Liberty, with as much clamour as did the Ephesians of old, to their good customer the Goddess Diana.

This despised class, the Negroes, seems to be regarded as being destitute, not only of mental endowments, but also of the sensibilities of our common nature. They are considered as fair subjects for the bitterest sarcasm and contempt. Children, catching the contagion by example and sympathy, regard them as beings that may be annoyed and insulted with impunity; dogs are encouraged to bark at them; and, as a crowning point, parrots are taught to curse them. I could scarcely have believed this, but I know one elegant house, where a bird of this kind was much admired for the charming accomplishment of thundering a degrading curse at the head of every passing negro.

Besides their intellectual deficiencies, they are charged with a long catalogue of moral misdoings, which more properly spring from a neglected education than a depraved disposition. I have frequently conversed with the females, and have always found them remarkably civil, and grateful for any trivial act of kindness. They generally express themselves in good language, and with an enunciation, as bold and as clear as any Englishman. This struck me with surprise, as I had formed my judgement of their conversational capabilities, from the dialogues given in broken English, that I had met with in the course of my reading. Their voices are rich and melodious, and their singing is much admired at church, but all those that I ever saw there, sat by themselves; and I never heard of a white man, however low in station he might be, that would condescend to sit at the same table with a black.

There is something peculiarly interesting in the appearance of their children, when between the ages of three and eight. I know not by what laws blackness of skin and sinuosity of hair should, when associated, produce an effect at once droll and agreeable. But such is the case in an uncommon degree. All European ladies, with whom I conversed, acknowledged this; and even the Americans were compelled to allow, that these sable Psyches and Cupids of the kitchen are very entertaining.

But I soon found, that to converse in accents of kindness with negroes, was not the way to secure the estimation of American society; it is considered shockingly coarse and vulgar. On some occasions, the negro children themselves have stood in mute astonishment, while I have patted the head of one of their companions; and such an action has sometimes produced a remark, on the strange taste that could induce a lady to take notice of such creatures.

A fracas took place one day, at our boarding-house, arising out of a dispute between two gentlemen; the one a German, and the other an American. In the heat of argument, the German expressed himself thus: “I will wager a hundred dollars, that I produce a negro that is a better calculator than you.”—The American rose in high anger, and immediately left the room; declaring that he would not sit at the same table with any one, who esteemed him no better than a negro. Indeed he carried his threat further, for he removed to another house with all possible precipitation. The general opinion was, that the proposal of the German was a most degrading one; and I doubt not, a more fashionable display of resentment would have met with unequivocal approbation.

Until the Americans consent entirely to loose the yoke and let the oppressed go free, they should cashier the stars and stripes, and adopt the following device and motto, which would more effectually represent the piebald character of their Republic.

Let this device be, the representation of a man wearing the cap of liberty, and brandishing a slave whip in his right hand, while his left displays the Declaration of Independence; his right foot, at the same time resting on the naked back of a prostrate negro.—With this motto:

“All men are born free and equal.”

Negro slavery is the foulest blot on the character of the American government, and their spiteful treatment of those who have obtained their freedom, represents the “free-borns” in a most ungracious point of view. It justifies a stranger in concluding that the strong arm of compulsion has wrested these oppressed creatures from their iron grasp; and that, like the Egyptians of old, their bond slaves have departed much against their will. What! are these blacks indebted to their neighbours, and is it for the purpose of obtaining satisfaction, that all classes unite in heaping reproaches on their heads? Truth compels me to declare, that the christian whites owe to their sable brethren a debt that they can never, never liquidate; and those who have laboured to rivet their galling fetters, will answer for it in that day, when some from among the most abject negroes in the States, shall shine in the splendour of coronation garments.

But a haughty spirit of contemptuousness seems to prevail among those, in whose composition dulness and ill nature predominate. Thus the Americans of this order, despise the English; the resident English despise the Irish; the Irish unite with all the rest in despising the Negroes: whom these despise I cannot tell, but probably all the rest together.

A magnanimous mind will seek no excuse for treating the defenceless with cruel contempt; and, while I freely admit the vanity of these negroes is boundless, I contend that it is not to be cured by an indiscriminate administration of ill treatment. Their advance in civilization will be marked by a corresponding contempt for those frivolities, which they now so much admire, and no doubt, they will ultimately lay them aside.

A peep into a negro ball room, as at present conducted, would certainly provoke the risibility of a philosopher. I myself, was never so highly favoured, but shall present my readers with a description, as nearly as I can recollect it, given by a gentleman; just observing from what I have seen of their mode of dressing on occasions of festivity, that I believe the representation to be correct.—“Dark dandies, so starched and stayed as to appear perfectly inflexible, dressed in the very tip of fashion, with their poor heads beaming with all the lustre that Rowland’s Macassar can dispense, may here be seen paying their devoirs to their sable belles. These last, arrayed in fashionables fresh from France; the articles of dress themselves preposterous, and ill adapted to display the attractions of the wearers, by their tasteless combination, magnify the absurdity ten-fold. Here, some nymph, assuming the name of Thalia or Aurora, may be observed, with fingers, ears, and wrists, ringed and jewelled with a sample of all the tinsel trumpery of Birmingham; on her head waves a huge plume of white ostrich feathers; while her dark ancles are dimly visible through a pair of British flesh-coloured silk stockings; and her waist so tightly compressed, as to give her figure the contour of an hour-glass.” Poor creatures! they will some day know better—till then, these things may be regarded with the passing tribute of a smile.

Respecting this treatment of negroes, by their former owners, the whites of America, I desire to be understood as speaking in general terms. Some, I know, have kind masters, but all general rules admit of individual exceptions. That negro enjoys a great advantage who lives under kind superiors; but, if his race be held in contempt by the whole neighbourhood, he has still the mortifying consciousness of knowing that he will be obnoxious to indignity and insult, so long as he retains his colour.

The greater part of the negroes are servants still. Those of them that are steady receive excellent wages—from eight to twelve dollars per month, with board, for a man; and from six to ten for a woman. Those who are not in service, chiefly wander about the city carrying their convenient apparatus for sawing wood for fuel, and, as they are seldom employed for a longer period than two hours together, this is a lazy life. I am sure the very bones of some must ache with idleness. Thus it will appear that although they are the hewers of wood and drawers of water to the whole community, they are not generally overworked. Under existing circumstances, they are not likely to rise in the scale of society: I did not notice a negro among the hundreds of carmen employed in this city.

This numerous class, the carmen, keep each a horse and cart, which they own and drive; and, as the merchants keep neither horses nor vehicles, they do all the commercial conveyance work in the city. They are not hired by any particular employer for any specified time, but like hackney coachmen with us, are called when required. Their carts are much lighter than ours; and with the assistance of four moveable posts and a chain, they contrive to dispense with both sides and ends. Their horses are generally very good; they appear light, and when occasion requires, move as swiftly as our coach horses.

The heavier kind of goods are usually disposed in smaller packages, and the whole of the business equipage seems, to my judgement, much lighter and more convenient than with us. Their porters, carmen, and helpers of all kinds move with greater alacrity; and, although I admit I am not a competent judge in such matters, I consider the Americans surpass us in these affairs.

Their vessels of all descriptions appear much cleaner and handsomer than ours; and this superiority is maintained throughout all classes, from a Liverpool Packet to a Long Island market boat. A Yankee vessel, see her where you may, can be told among a thousand others; she lies upon the water like a swan, and in the midst of shipping from all nations, she appears like a swallow among other birds.

Their steam ships are also very large, and most beautifully fitted up and furnished. But now a passage across the Atlantic may be effected by steam, the naval affairs of the whole world will, perhaps, undergo a complete revolution: yet this would be more speedily effected, were the steam apparatus perfectly free from danger.

The city is well supplied with provisions of every kind. On a fair average, they are about half the price that they are with us; though the markets are subject to considerable fluctuations. They are procured every morning from the city markets; the two principal of which are the Washington and the Fulton; and these are again supplied most plentifully from the country, with every thing the land produces in all parts of the Union: together with abundance of fish, in the greatest perfection.

During the winter, the inhabitants providentially secure a good supply of ice for summer use. Insignificant as this article may appear to us who seldom use it, even as a luxury, it is an object of paramount importance in a city, where the thermometer ranges for four months in the year, between eighty and a hundred degrees. During this broiling season, neither meat, fish, poultry, milk, nor butter, could be preserved without its cooling influence; and as a luxury at such a season, it is grateful beyond conception.

One of the principal causes of domestic disquietude in this part of the world, arises from servants. Whether this be the result of the peculiar form of the American government or not, I pretend not to determine; but most certainly, the saying of Jefferson is as well known by this class as their own proper names, by some of them it is as frequently repeated, and is taken advantage of by all. If a lady requires a servant, she usually makes her wants known at one of the many register offices that abound in the city; or she sends an advertisement to the newspaper office, which will be inserted for an English shilling. In either case, she is sure of having a numerous assemblage, from which she can make a selection. The applicants will seem innumerable, comprising individuals of almost every nation under heaven, but chiefly from Ireland: and it will be a wonder, if any one among them have lived in her last place more than a month. As to character, the whole affair generally proves a farce: I myself, could never obtain any thing more than a mere outline.

I cannot well conceive how servants can be more fickle than they are here. Their love of liberty prompts them to change their places, almost as frequently as they change their dresses; and as to equality, they always demand a seat at the same table with the heads of the family, in the country; and in many instances, in the city. Seldom indeed, can a girl be prevailed upon to remain on the premises after tea time; for, as her mistress spends the evening out whenever she pleases, the girl thinks she cannot do better than imitate her example. But the latter frequently forgets to return at the time appointed, and the worst of it is, want of punctuality arising from this cause is not always the greatest annoyance. But, I forget myself—servants they will not submit to be called; this term is especially resisted by the free-born sisterhood; they are therefore, denominated helps, helpers, or hands.

So much for a single servant; and a plurality is sure to increase the perplexity. I was frequently reminded of that saying of old Elwes, “If you keep one servant, your work is done; if you keep two, it is half done; if three are kept you may do it yourself.” Yet, the first section of this aphorism does not correctly apply; for the work of a mistress is never completely done here, by either one servant or more, and must in many parts for ever go undone, unless she do it herself.

The perplexity arising from servants, has influenced many small families to prefer residing from year to year, in a boarding-house. Although this custom appears very singular at first, as do all domestic arrangements with which we are unacquainted; yet I must confess, it has its recommendations, and upon the whole, I liked it as well as occupying a house of my own. As our apartments in Beekman-street were not, in all respects, suited to our convenience, we removed to a boarding-house situated in the immediate vicinity of the City Hall, where we were provided with permanent accommodation; and remained here during our continuance in the city. The inmates of the house have, of course, their own sleeping rooms; and these, according to the number of the party, or the kind of accommodation desired. The whole company, with the exception of the children, assemble in the public room at meal times; besides which, there is a public sitting room; and, should a private apartment be required for any temporary purpose, it can always be obtained in an establishment of any pretensions.

The order of the house is (for in describing one I describe all,) to breakfast in summer at eight, dine at two, and take tea at six. The breakfast table is furnished with tea, coffee, and chocolate, besides viands of various kinds, both hot and cold, and also with fish and fruit when in season. Dinner presents nothing remarkable; the table is supplied with much about the same fare as with us, only with a little more attention to variety. Tea is the last repast, and a massive one it is. Besides tea and coffee, and a second edition of the substantial cold fare that figured at the breakfast table, there are sweetmeats and preserves in every variety, with a countless display of cakes, the very naming of which would appear upon paper like a confectioner’s catalogue; while melons, or pine apples, when in season, bring up the rear. After this, what more is required? Being accustomed to take supper in Europe we fancied we required it here, and were accommodated, but as we found we were the only party who partook of that meal, we felt somewhat uncomfortable, and learned in course of time to adopt the custom of our neighbours, which we found by experience, in this respect to be preferable to our own.

The quality of the fare provided is usually of the very best. I have often thought that the Americans, as a nation, sacrifice the pleasures of intellectual taste to mere animal gratification; and notwithstanding the variety displayed at their repasts, I found it difficult to make a selection of food safficiently plain for myself and my children. They rally us on our partiality for the pleasures of the table, and we receive it with hearty good nature; but really the national joke of the roast beef of old England comes with a very bad grace from transatlantic epicures. Like all other establishments, boarding houses are various in character. They differ very little from each other in the fare they provide, but the description of the house, and the terms, are considered a just criterion of the circumstances and quality of the company they entertain. The terms are of every variety, from three dollars per week, to—I know not what sum. My husband and myself paid a hundred dollars per month; in this sum I have not included any thing connected with the children. Perhaps, some may think the mention of this an unnecessary display of personal parade. My reason for it is this. I have so often heard individuals who have written on America, charged with associating with the canaile of the nation, and their testimony, on this assumption, has been rejected by numbers, that in order to rebut this anticipated charge I have furnished the reader with an acknowledged standard in order to assist him in the formation of his judgement.

Besides ourselves, the inmates of this establishment consisted of two married pairs, a brother and sister, and two single gentlemen: the gentlemen were all either professional men or merchants. Frequently the company was diversified, by the introduction of a lady or gentleman from Virginia, or from some other of the southern states, who had taken a trip hither, for the purpose of avoiding the excessive heat at home; and sometimes two ladies would drop down the Hudson from the north for a few week’s pleasure. Some one of the gentlemen also, would occasionally introduce a friend fresh from the other side of the Atlantic; so that, it was no uncommon occurrence for us to converse, on the same day, with individuals from many different parts of the globe.

After breakfast, we used to withdraw to the sitting-room, and either read or work with the needle; or, if more agreeable, we could retire to our private apartments. We could spend our time either privately or in public according to our inclinations: and with agreeable society, for ours was remarkably so, what could be more desirable? But what became of the children? will be a natural question. These were no source of annoyance—they were sent to school, or attended in the nursery, or, if of sufficient age, were admitted into the sitting-room. That woman is not worthy of the name of either wife or mother, in whose vocabulary the word ‘trouble’ has a place, when the comfort of her husband or her children is the object.

So small a portion of time being occupied in affairs of a domestic nature, leaves the ladies leisure for reading, and for the construction of elaborate articles of fancy dress. Their fashions are imported from Paris, which however, do not at all times appear to become them; but here as in England, any absurdity has its charms, that is countenanced by the recommendation of a French milliner. The gentlemen dress after the English style, and plates of the newest London fashions, are displayed in the shop windows of every tailor in New York.

The Americans are commonly charged with eating with voracious avidity, I know this to be strictly true with some; but the charge does not apply in all its disgusting details, against the members of, what is considered, good society. The first exhibition I witnessed of this national peculiarity was on a steam-ship tour; until then I do not recollect that I had even heard of it. It is most true, they do not indulge in conversation while dining; and this, not only detracts from that sociability which at all times graces an English repast; but it also throws a sombre shade over the whole affair.

Nothing can exceed the abhorrence with which European ladies view the disgusting practices I now feel myself called upon to mention. The disagreeable creatures, almost to a man, chew tobacco and spit most incessantly. These odious practices are too universal to admit of any palliation from individual exceptions. What pleasure can the things—wretches I was going to write, find in this loathsome practice? It unfits them for the society even of those females, who have the lowest claims to respectability—it injures their health—it makes them hateful and hated go where they may;—and I could almost wish for the supremacy of the Pope, to predominate in America for the single purpose of carrying into effect the edict of Urban VII. against the use of tobacco.

It is painful to dwell on these things, but having coupled the above foul practices and dismissed them with the thunders of the Vatican, it would be unfair to let the master vice of the nation escape, without a sentence of disapprobation; I mean the drinking of ardent spirits. I will not call it the vice of drunkenness, for, all I could learn inclines me to question the capability of the gentlemen of the Union to commit this sin. As a nation, they are brought up from their very infancy to drink ardent spirits, and by the time they arrive at years of maturity they become so habituated to the practice, that spirits cease to affect them in a manner similar to others. Who can sufficiently estimate the blessings that flow from cheap rum? I have witnessed infants washed in it—being attainable by all, boys have been known to enter school under its influence—and it has slain its thousands in the prime of manhood.

That temperance societies have improved these things, I cheerfully admit; for the practice had produced effects so appaling, that even the depraved shuddered to contemplate them. But still the use of the solitary dram is not banished, even from among the higher orders of the community.

These evil spirits are here made to assume all the attractions that a depraved ingenuity, guided by avarice, can possibly invent. The taste is consulted either by bitter, sweet, or acid, or by a pleasing combination of all. If the weather be cold, spices are in request; if hot, ice is introduced to impart a grateful coolness.

I would by no means advise any young man whether ignorant or educated, who has the least relish for these things, to cross the Atlantic; for, I consider if he have only the slightest inclination for them here, his life is not worth four years purchase, from the day he sets foot on the coast of America. In the short space of two years, how many have I known and heard of, who, by this destructive vice, have been cut off in the flower of their days! The absent friends of such seldom know the real cause of their death; and consumption, or some other disorder, frequently serves as the mantle to cover the horrid aspect of the familiar spirit they have consulted, as a similar vesture veiled the shade of the reputed prophet.[B]