SUMMARY. Continuation of the geography of Greece. A panegyrical account of Athens. A description of Boeotia and Thessaly, with the sea-coast. CHAPTER I.1. Having completed the description of Peloponnesus, which we said was the first and least of the peninsulas of which Greece consists, we must next proceed to those which are continuous with it. We described the second to be that which joins Megaris to the Peloponnesus [so that Crommyon belongs to Megaris, and not to the Corinthians]; Eudoxus says, that if we imagine a straight line to be drawn towards the east from the Ceraunian Mountains to Sunium, the promontory of Attica, it would leave, on the right hand, to the south, the whole of Peloponnesus, and on the left, to the north, the continuous coast from the Ceraunian Mountains to the CrisÆan Gulf, and the whole of Megaris and Attica. He is of opinion that the shore which extends from Sunium to the Isthmus, would not have so great a curvature, nor have so great a bend, if, to this shore, were not added the parts continuous with the Isthmus and extending to the Hermionic Bay and ActÉ; that in the same manner the shore, from the Ceraunian Mountains to the Gulf of Corinth, has a similar bend, so as to make a curvature, forming within it a sort of gulf, where Rhium and Antirrhium contracting together give it this figure. The same is the case with the shore about Crissa and the recess, where the CrissÆan Sea terminates. 2. As this is the description given by Eudoxus, a mathematician, skilled in the delineations of figures and the inclinations of places, acquainted also with the places themselves, we must consider the sides of Attica and Megaris, extending from Sunium as far as the Isthmus, to be curved, although slightly so. About the middle of the above-mentioned line 3. Acte (Attica) is washed by two seas; it is at first narrow, then it widens towards the middle, yet it, nevertheless, takes a lunated bend towards Oropus in Boeotia, having the convex side towards the sea. This is the second, the eastern side of Attica. The remaining side is that to the north, extending from the territory of Oropus towards the west, as far as Megaris, and consists of the mountainous tract of Attica, having a variety of names, and dividing Boeotia from Attica; so that, as I have before remarked, Boeotia, by being connected with 4. After Crommyon, rising above Attica, are the rocks called Scironides, which afford no passage along the sea-side. Over them, however, is a road which leads to Megara and Attica from the Isthmus. The road approaches so near the rocks that in many places it runs along the edge of precipices, for the overhanging mountain is of great height, and impassable. Here is laid the scene of the fable of Sciron, and the Pityocamptes, or the pine-breaker, one of those who infested with their robberies the above-mentioned mountainous tract. They were slain by Theseus. The wind Argestes, After the rocks Scironides there projects the promontory Minoa, forming the harbour of NisÆa. NisÆa is the arsenal of Megara, and distant 18 stadia from the city; it is joined to it by walls on each side. 5. In former times the Ionians occupied this country, and were also in possession of Attica, before the time of the building of Megara, wherefore the poet does not mention these places by any appropriate name, but when he calls all those dwelling in Attica, Athenians, he comprehends these also in the common appellation, regarding them as Athenians; so when, in the Catalogue of the Ships, he says, “And they who occupied Athens, a well-built city,” we must understand the present Megarenses also, as having taken a part in the expedition. The proof of this is, that Attica was, in former times, called Ionia, and Ias, and when the poet says, “There the Boeoti, Iaones,” he means the Athenians. But of this Ionia Megaris was a part. 6. Besides, the Peloponnesians and Ionians having had frequent disputes respecting their boundaries, on which Crommyonia also was situated, assembled and agreed upon a spot of the Isthmus itself, on which they erected a pillar having an inscription on the part towards Peloponnesus, “this is peloponnesus, not ionia;” and on the side towards Megara, “this is not peloponnesus, but ionia.” Although those, who wrote on the history of Attica, Since, then, different writers give different accounts of the division of the country into four parts, it is enough to adduce these lines from Sophocles where Ægeus says, “My father determined that I should go away to Acte, having assigned to me, as the elder, the best part of the land; to Lycus, the opposite garden of Euboea; for Nisus he selects the irregular tract of the shore of Sciron; and the rugged Pallas, breeder of giants, obtained by lot the part to the south.” Such are the proofs which are adduced to show that Megaris was a part of Attica. 7. After the return of the HeraclidÆ, and the partition of the country, many of the former possessors were banished from their own land by the HeraclidÆ, and by the Dorians, who came with them, and migrated to Attica. Among these was Melanthus, the king of Messene. He was voluntarily appointed 8. The city of the Megarenses, after having experienced many changes, still subsists. It once had schools of philosophers, who had the name of the Megaric sect. They succeeded Euclides, the Socratic philosopher, who was by birth a Megarensian, in the same manner as the Eleiaci, among whom was Pyrrhon, who succeeded PhÆdon, the Eleian, who was also a Socratic philosopher, and as the Eretriaci succeeded Menedemus the Eretrean. Megaris, like Attica, is very sterile, and the greater part of it is occupied by what are called the Oneii mountains, a kind of ridge, which, extending from the Scironides rocks to Boeotia and to CithÆron, separates the sea at NisÆa from that near PagÆ, called the Alcyonian Sea. 9. In sailing from NisÆa to Attica there lie, in the course of the voyage, five small islands. Then succeeds Salamis, which is about 70, and according to others, 80, stadia in length. It has two cities of the same name. The ancient city, which looked towards Ægina and to the south, as Æschylus has described it; “Ægina lies towards the blasts of the south:” it is uninhabited. The other is situated in a bay on a spot of a peninsular form contiguous to Attica. In former times it had other names, for it was called Sciras, and Cychreia, from certain heroes; from the former Minerva is called Sciras; hence also Scira, a place in Attica; Episcirosis, a religious rite; and Scirophorion, one of the months. From Cychreia 10. At present the Athenians possess the island Salamis. In former times they disputed the possession of it with the Megarians. Some allege, that Pisistratus, others that Solon, inserted in the Catalogue of Ships immediately after this verse, “Ajax conducted from Salamis twelve vessels,” the following words, “And stationed them by the side of the Athenian forces;” and appealed to the poet as a witness, that the island originally belonged to the Athenians. But this is not admitted by the critics, because many other lines testify the contrary. For why does Ajax appear at the extremity of the line not with the Athenians, but with the Thessalians under the command of Protesilaus; “There were the vessels of Ajax, and Protesilaus.” And Agamemnon, in the Review “found the son of Peteus, Menestheus, the tamer of horses, standing, and around were the Athenians skilful in war: near stood the wily Ulysses, and around him and at his side, the ranks of the Cephalleni;” and again, respecting Ajax and the Salaminii; “he came to the Ajaces,” and near them, “Idomeneus on the other side amidst the Cretans,” not Menestheus. The Athenians then seem to have alleged “Ajax conducted ships from Salamis, from Polichna, from Ægirussa, from NisÆa, and from Tripodes,” which are places in Megaris, of which Tripodes has the name of Tripodiscium, situated near the present forum of Megara. 11. Some say, that Salamis is unconnected with Attica, because the priestess of Minerva Polias, who may not eat the new cheese of Attica, but the produce only of a foreign land, yet uses the Salaminian cheese. But this is a mistake, for she uses that which is brought from other islands, that are confessedly near Attica, for the authors of this custom considered all produce as foreign which was brought over sea. It seems as if anciently the present Salamis was a separate state, and that Megara was a part of Attica. On the sea-coast, opposite to Salamis, the boundaries of Megara and Attica are two mountains called Cerata, or Horns. 12. Next is the city Eleusis, 13. Then follows the Thriasian plain, and the coast, a demus of the same name, There also are the PharmacussÆ, 14. Above this coast is a mountain called Corydallus, and the demus Corydalleis: then the harbour of Phoron, (Robbers,) and Psyttalia, a small rocky desert island, which, according to some writers, is the eye-sore of the PirÆus. Near it is Atalanta, of the same name as that between Euboea and the Locri; and another small island similar to Psyttalia; then the PirÆus, which is also reckoned among the demi, and the Munychia. 15. The Munychia is a hill in the shape of a peninsula, hollow, and a great part of it excavated both by nature and art, so as to serve for dwellings, with an entrance by a narrow opening. Beneath it are three harbours. Formerly the Munychia was surrounded by a wall, and occupied by dwellings, nearly in the same manner as the city of the Rhodians, comprehending within the circuit of the walls the PirÆus and the harbours full of materials for ship-building; here also was the armoury, the work of Philon. The naval station was capable of receiving the four hundred vessels; which was the smallest number the Athenians were in the habit of keeping in readiness for sea. With this wall were connected the legs, that stretched out from the Asty. These were the long walls, 40 stadia in length, joining the Asty 16. What is properly the Asty is a rock, situated in a plain, with dwellings around it. Upon the rock is the temple When, however, I consider the multitude of objects, so celebrated and far-famed, belonging to this city, I am reluctant to enlarge upon them, lest what I write should depart too far from the proposed design of this work. “I behold the acropolis, there is the symbol of the great trident; Yet this very writer mentions only one of the remarkable things to be seen in the Acropolis. Polemo Periegetes 17. Many, if not all the demi, have various fabulous tales and histories connected with them: with Aphidna is connected the rape of Helen by Theseus, the sack of the place by the Dioscuri, and the recovery of their sister; with Marathon, 18. The account would be much longer if we were to inquire who were the founders of the city from the time of Cecrops, for writers do not agree, as is evident from the names of persons and of places. For example, Attica, 19. In proportion as an earnest desire is excited to ascertain the truth about remarkable places and events, and in proportion as writers, on these subjects, are more numerous, so much the more is an author exposed to censure, who does not make himself master of what has been written. For example, in “the Collection of the Rivers,” Callimachus says, that he should laugh at the person, who would venture to describe the Athenian virgins as
“drinking of the pure waters of the Eridanus,” from which even the herds would turn away. There are indeed fountains of water, pure and fit for drinking, it is said, without the gate called Diochares, near the Lyceium; formerly also a fountain was erected near it, which afforded a large supply of excellent water; but if it is not so at present, is it at all strange, that a fountain supplying abundance of pure and potable water at one period of time, should afterwards have the property of its waters altered? In subjects, however, which are so numerous, we cannot enter into detail; yet they are not so entirely to be passed over in silence as to abstain from giving a condensed account of some of them. 20. It will suffice then to add, that, according to Philochorus, when the country was devastated on the side of the sea by the Carians, and by land by the Boeotians, whom they called Aones, Cecrops first settled a large body of people in twelve cities, the names of which were Cecropia, Tetrapolis, Epacria, Deceleia, Eleusis, Aphidna, (although some persons write it in the plural number, AphidnÆ,) Thoricus, Brauron, Cytherus, Sphettus, Cephisia [Phalerus]. Again, at a subsequent period, Theseus is said to have collected the inhabitants of the twelve cities into one, the present city. Formerly, the Athenians were governed by kings; they afterwards changed the government to a democracy; then tyrants were their masters, as Pisistratus and his sons; afterwards there was an oligarchy both of the four hundred and of the thirty tyrants, whom the LacedÆmonii set over them; these were expelled by the Athenians, who retained the form of a democracy, till the Romans established their empire. For, although they were somewhat oppressed by the Macedonian kings, so as to be compelled to obey them, yet they preserved entire the same form of government. Some say, that the government was very well administered during a period of ten years, at the time that Casander was king of the Macedonians. For this person, although in other respects he was disposed to be tyrannical, yet, when he was master of the city, treated the Athenians with kindness and generosity. He placed at the head of the citizens Demetrius the Phalerean, a disciple of Theophrastus the philosopher, who, far from dissolving, restored the democracy. This appears from his 21. Next to the PirÆus is the demus Phalereis, on the succeeding line of coast, then Halimusii, Æxoneis, AlÆeis, the Æxonici, Anagyrasii; then Theoris, Lampesis; Ægilieis, Anaphlystii, Azenieis; these extend as far as the promontory Sunium. Between the above-mentioned demi is a long promontory, Zoster, “The women of Colias shall shudder at the sight of oars.” In front of these places lies off, at no great distance, the island Belbina; and the rampart of Patroclus; but most of these islands are uninhabited. 22. On doubling the promontory at Sunium, we meet with Sunium, a considerable demus; then Thoricus, next a demus called Potamus, from which the inhabitants are called Potamii; next Prasia,
Diana Brauronia, HalÆ Araphenides, where is the temple of Diana Tauropola; then Myrrhinus, Probalinthus, Marathon, where Miltiades entirely destroyed the army of Datis the Persian, without waiting for the LacedÆmonians, who deferred setting out till the full moon. There is laid the scene of the fable of the Marathonian bull, which Theseus killed. Next to Marathon is Tricorynthus, then Rhamnus, where is the temple of Nemesis; then Psaphis, a city of the Oropii. Somewhere about this spot is the Amphiaraeum, an oracle once in repute, to which Amphiareus fled, as Sophocles says, “The dusty Theban soil opened and received him with his armour, and the four-horse chariot.” Oropus has frequently been a subject of contention, for it is situated on the confines of Attica and Boeotia. In front of this coast, before Thoricum and Sunium, is the island Helena; it is rocky and uninhabited, extending in length about 60 stadia, which, they say, the poet mentions in the words, in which Alexander addresses Helen, “Not when first I carried thee away from the pleasant LacedÆmon, across the deep, and in the island CranaË embraced thee.” For CranaË, from the kind of intercourse which took place there, is now called Helena. Next to Helena, It would be tedious to recite the names of the Demi of Attica in the inland parts, on account of their number. 23. Among the mountains which are most celebrated, are the Hymettus, Brilessus, Lycabettus, Parnes, and Corydallus. Although the Attic is the best of all the kinds of honey, yet by far the best of the Attic honey is that found in the country of the silver mines, 24. Among the rivers is the Cephissus, having its source from the Trinemeis, it flows through the plain (where are the Gephyra, and the Gephyrismi) between the legs or walls extending from the Asty to the PirÆus, and empties itself into the Phalericum. Its character is chiefly that of a winter torrent, for in the summer time it fails altogether. Such also, for the most part, is the Ilissus, which flows from the other side of the Asty to the same coast, from the parts above Agra, and the Lyceium, and the fountain celebrated by Plato in the PhÆdrus. So much then respecting Attica. CHAPTER II.1. Next in order is Boeotia. When I speak of this country, and of the contiguous nations, I must, for the sake of perspicuity, repeat what I have said before. We have said, that the sea-coast stretches from Sunium to the north as far as Thessalonica, inclining a little toward the west, and having the sea on the east, that parts situated above this shore towards the west extend like belts The second belt is Boeotia, stretching from east to west from the Euboean sea to the CrisÆan Gulf, nearly of equal length with Attica, or perhaps somewhat less; in quality of soil however it greatly surpasses Attica. 2. Ephorus declares the superiority of Boeotia over the bordering nations not only in this respect, but also because it alone has three seas adjoining it, and a great number of harbours. At the CrisÆan and Corinthian Gulfs it received the commodities of Italy, Sicily, and Africa. Towards Euboea the sea-coast branches off on each side of the Euripus; in one direction towards Aulis and Tanagrica, in the other, to Salganeus and Anthedon; on one side there is an open sea to Egypt, and Cyprus, and the islands; on the other to Macedonia, the Propontis, and the Hellespont. He adds also that Euboea is almost a part of Boeotia, because the Euripus is very narrow, and the opposite shores are brought into communication by a bridge of two plethra in length. For these reasons he praises the country, and says, that it has natural advantages for obtaining supreme command, but that from want of careful education and learning, even those who were from time to time at the head of affairs did not long maintain the ascendency they had acquired, as appears from the example of Epaminondas; at his death the Thebans immediately lost the supremacy they had just acquired. This is to be attributed, says Ephorus, to their neglect of learning, and of intercourse with mankind, and to their exclusive cultivation of military virtues. It must be added also, that learning and knowledge are peculiarly useful in dealing with Greeks, but in the case of Barbarians, force is preferable to reason. In fact the Romans in early times, when carrying on war with savage nations, did not require such accomplishments, but from the time that they began to be concerned in transactions with more civilized people, they applied themselves to learning, and so established universal dominion. 3. Boeotia was first occupied by Barbarians, Aones, and Temmices, a wandering people from Sunium, by Leleges, and Hyantes. Then the Phoenicians, who accompanied Cadmus, possessed it. He fortified the Cadmeian land, and transmitted the government to his descendants. The Phoenicians founded Thebes, and added it to the Cadmeian territory. They preserved their dominion, and exercised it over the greatest part of the Boeotians till the time of the expedition of the Epigoni. At this period they abandoned Thebes for a short time, but returned again. In the same manner when they were ejected by Thracians and Pelasgi, they established their rule in Thessaly together with the ArnÆi for a long period, so that all the inhabitants obtained the name of Boeotians. They returned afterwards to their own country, at the time the Æolian expedition was preparing at Aulis in Boeotia which the descendants of Orestes were equipping for Asia. After having united the Orchomenian tract to Boeotia (for formerly they did not form one community, nor has Homer enumerated these people with the Boeotians, but by themselves, calling them MinyÆ) with the assistance of the Orchomenians they drove out the Pelasgi, who went to Athens, a part of which city is called from this people Pelasgic. The Pelasgi however settled below Hymettus. The Thracians retreated to Parnassus. The Hyantes founded Hyampolis in Phocis. 4. Ephorus relates that the Thracians, after making treaty with the Boeotians, attacked them by night, when encamped in a careless manner during a time of peace. The Thracians when reproached, and accused of breaking the treaty, replied, that they had not broken it, for the conditions were “by day,” whereas they had made the attack by night, whence the common proverb, “a Thracian shuffle.” The Pelasgi and the Boeotians also went during the war to consult the oracle. He cannot tell, he says, what answer was given to the Pelasgi, but the prophetess replied to the Boeotians that they would prosper by committing some act of impiety. The messengers sent to consult the oracle suspecting the prophetess of favouring the Pelasgi on account of their relationship, (for the temple had originally belonged to the Pelasgi,) seized the woman, and threw her upon a burning pile, considering, that whether her conduct had been right or 5. After this they assisted Penthilus in sending out the Æolian colony, and despatched a large body of their own people with him, so that it was called the Boeotian colony. A long time afterwards the country was devastated during the war with the Persians at PlatÆÆ. They afterwards so far recovered their power, that the Thebans, having vanquished the LacedÆmonians in two battles, 6. We are next to make a circuit of the country, beginning at the sea-coast, opposite Euboea, which is continuous with that of Attica. We begin this circuit from Oropus, and the Sacred Harbour, 7. Next is Delium, To this place the Athenians, after their defeat in battle, fled in disorder. 8. Then follows a great harbour, which is called Bathys (or deep harbour): then Aulis, 9. Salganeus is a place situated near the Euripus, upon a height. It has its name from Salganeus, a Boeotian, who was buried there. He was guide to the Persians, when they sailed into this passage from the Maliac Gulf. It is said, that he was put to death before they reached the Euripus, by the commander of the fleet, Megabates, as a traitor, for conducting the fleet deceitfully into a narrow opening of the sea, having no outlet. The Barbarian, however, perceived his mistake, and regretting what he had done, thought him worthy of burial, because he had been unjustly put to death. 10. Near Oropus 11. Mycalessus is a village in the Tanagrian district. It lies upon the road from Thebes to Chalcis. It is called in the Boeotian dialect Mycalettus. Harma, also, an uninhabited village in the Tanagrian territory, derives its name from the The PythaÏstÆ, as they are called, signify, by the order of an oracle, the occurrence of any lightning when they are looking in the direction of Harma, and despatch the sacrifice to Delphi whenever it is observed. They were to keep watch for three months, and for three days and nights in each month, at the altar of Jupiter Astrapius, or Dispenser of lightning. This altar is in the wall, between the Pythium and the Olympium. Respecting the Boeotian Harma, some say, that Amphiaraus fell in battle out of his chariot, [harma,] near the spot where his temple now stands, and that the chariot was drawn empty to the place, which bears the same name [Harma]. 12. On going from Thebes to Argos,
Heleon, a Tanagrian village, has its name from (Hele) the marshes there. 13. After Salganeus is Anthedon, a city with a harbour, the last on the Boeotian coast towards Euboea, as the poet says, “Anthedon at the extremity.” As we proceed a little farther, there are besides two small towns, belonging to the Boeotians, Larymna, near which the Cephissus discharges its waters; and farther above, HalÆ, of the same name as the Attic demus. Opposite to this coast is situated, it is said, ÆgÆ 14. Near Anthedon is a place called Isus, and esteemed sacred, belonging to Boeotia; it contains remains of a city, and the first syllable of Isus is short. Some persons are of opinion, that the verse ought to be written, ?s?? te ?a???? ????d??a t’ ?s?at??sa?, “The sacred Isus, and the extreme Anthedon,” lengthening the first syllable by poetical licence for the sake of the metre, instead of ??s?? te ?a????, “The sacred Nisa;” for Nisa is not to be found anywhere in Boeotia, as Apollodorus says in his observations on the Catalogue of the Ships; “The sacred Creusa,” meaning the present Creusa, the arsenal of the Thespieans, situated on the CrisÆan Gulf. Others write the passage Fa??? te ?a??a?, “The sacred PharÆ,” PharÆ is one of the four villages, (or TetracomiÆ,) near Tanagra, namely, Heleon, Harma, Mycalessus, PharÆ. Others again write the passage thus, ??s?? te ?a????, “The sacred Nysa.” Nysa is a village of Helicon. Such then is the description of the sea-coast opposite Euboea. 15. The places next in order, in the inland parts, are hollow plains, surrounded everywhere on the east and west by mountains; on the south by the mountains of Attica, on the north by those of Phocis: on the west, CithÆron inclines, obliquely, a little above the CrisÆan Sea; it begins contiguous to the mountains of Megaris and Attica, and then makes a bend towards the plains, and terminates near the Theban territory. 16. Some of these plains become lakes, by rivers spreading over or falling into them and then flowing off. Some are dried up, and being very fertile, are cultivated in every possible way. But as the ground underneath is full of caverns and fissures, it has frequently happened, that violent earthquakes have obstructed some passages, and formed others under-ground, or on the surface, the water being carried off, either by subterranean channels, or by the formation of lakes and rivers on the surface. If the deep subterranean passages are stopped up, the waters of the lakes increase, so as to inundate and cover cities and whole districts, which become uncovered, if the same or other passages are again opened. The same regions are thus traversed in boats or on foot, according 17. One of two things took place. The cities either retained their sites, when the rise of the water was insufficient to overflow the houses, or they were deserted and rebuilt in some other place, when the inhabitants, being frequently exposed to danger from their vicinity to the lake, released themselves from further apprehension, by changing to a more distant or higher situation. It followed that the cities thus rebuilt retained the same name. Formerly, they might have had a name derived from some accidental local circumstance, but now the site does not correspond with the derivation of the name. For example, it is probable that PlatÆÆ was so called, from p??t?, or the flat part of the oar, and PlatÆans from gaining their livelihood by rowing; but at present, since they live at a distance from the lake, the name can no longer, with equal propriety, be derived from this local circumstance. Helos also, and Heleon, and Heilesium 18. This is exemplified particularly in the Cephissus, “And the grassy Haliartus.” 19. These rivers descend from the Phocian mountains, and among them the Cephissus, “And they who occupied LilÆa, at the sources of Cephissus.” It flows through Elateia, 20. Among the neighbouring lakes are Trephea “Who dwelt in Hyla, intent upon amassing wealth, close to the lake Cephissis;” for he did not mean to specify the lake Copais, as some suppose, but that called Hylicus, “He lived in Hyda,” for there is a place of this name in Lydia, “at the foot of the snowy Tmolus, in the fruitful country of Hyda;” and another in Boeotia; he therefore adds to “behind the lake Cephissis,” these words, “near dwelt other Boeotians.” For the Copais is of great extent, and not situated in the Theban district, but the other is small, and filled from the former by subterraneous channels; it is situated between Thebes “In Hyda,” for Ajax was not to send for his shield from Lydia. 21. 22. Schoenus 23. Scolus “Neither go yourself, nor follow any one going to Scolus.” It is said that Pentheus was brought from thence, and torn in pieces. There was among the cities near Olynthus another of the name of Scolus. We have said that in the Heracleian Trachinia there was a village of the name of Parasopii, beside which runs a river Asopus, and that there is another river Asopus in Sicyonia, and that the country through which it flows is called Asopia. There are however other rivers of the same name. 24. The name of Eteonus was changed to that of Scarphe, which belongs to Parasopia. [Parasopia belongs to the Thebais,] for the Asopus and the Ismenus flow through the plain in front of Thebes. There is the fountain Dirce, and also PotniÆ, where is laid the fable of Glaucus of PotniÆ, who was torn in pieces near the city by Potnian mares. The CithÆron “There is a small hill exposed to the winds,” &c.: but the lines are well known. 25. He calls the present place ThespiÆ “He dwelt near Helicon in a wretched village, Ascra; bad in winter, in summer intolerable, and worthless at any season.” Helicon is contiguous to Phocis on its northern, and partly on its western side, as far as the last harbour of Phocis, which is called from its characteristic situation, Mychus, or the Recess. Just above this part of the CrisÆan Gulf, Helicon, Ascra, ThespiÆ, and its arsenal Creusa, are situated. This is considered as the part of the CrisÆan and of the Corinthian Gulf which recedes most inland. The coast extends 90 stadia from the recess of the harbour to Creusa, and thence 120 as far as the promontory called HolmiÆ. In the most retired part of the CrisÆan Gulf, PagÆ and Œnoa, which I have already mentioned, are situated. Helicon, not far distant from Parnassus, rivals it in height It has been remarked, that the Thracians, (having expelled the Boeotians by force,) and the Pelasgi, and other barbarous people, settled in this part of Boeotia. ThespiÆ was formerly celebrated for a statue of Cupid by Praxiteles. Glycera the courtesan, a native of ThespiÆ, received it as a present from the artist, and dedicated it as a public offering to her fellow-citizens. Persons formerly used to repair thither to see the Cupid, where there was nothing else worth seeing. This city, and Tanagra, alone of the Boeotian cities exist at present, while of others there remain nothing but ruins and names.
26. After ThespiÆ the poet enumerates Graia and Mycalessus, of which we have before spoken. He proceeds as before, “They who lived near Harma, Eilesium, and ErythrÆ, And they who occupied Eleon, Hyle, and Peteon.” Peteon is a village of the Thebais near the road to Anthedon. Ocalea is midway between Haliartus, 27. Homer afterwards names, “CopÆ, and Eutresis, and Thisbe, abounding with doves.” We have spoken of CopÆ. It lies towards the north on the lake Copais. The other cities around are, AcrÆphiÆ, Phoenicis, Onchestus, Haliartus, Ocalea, AlalcomenÆ, Tilphusium, Coroneia. Formerly, the lake had no one general name, but derived its appellation from every settlement on its banks, as CopaÏs from CopÆ, 28. After CopÆ, the poet mentions Eutresis, a small village of the Thespians. Thisbe is now called ThisbÆ. The place is situated a little above the sea-coast on the confines of the Thespienses, and the territory of Coroneia; on the south it lies at the foot of CithÆron. It has an arsenal in a rocky situation abounding with doves, whence the poet terms it “Thisbe, with its flights of doves.” Thence to Sicyon is a voyage of 160 stadia. 29. He next recites the names of Coroneia, Haliartus, PlatÆÆ, and Glissas. Coroneia “Minerva, warrior queen, who o’er Coroneia keepest watch before thy temple, on the banks of Coralius.” The festival Pamboeotia was here celebrated. Hades is associated with Minerva, in the dedication of the temple, for some mystical reason. The inhabitants of the Boeotian Coroneia are called Coronii, those of the Messenian Coroneia, Coronenses. 30. Haliartus 31. PlatÆÆ, which the poet uses in the singular number, lies at the foot of CithÆron, between this mountain and Thebes, on the road to Athens and Megara; it is on the borders of Attica and Boeotia, for EleutherÆ is near, which some say belongs to Attica, others to Boeotia. We have said that the Asopus flows beside PlatÆÆ. There the army of the Greeks entirely destroyed Mardonius and three hundred thousand Persians. They dedicated there a temple to Jupiter Eleutherius, and instituted gymnastic games, called Eleutheria, in which the victor was crowned. The tombs erected at the public expense, in honour of those who died in the battle, are to be seen there. In the Sicyonian district is a demus called PlatÆÆ, where the poet Mnasalces was born: “the monument of Mnasalces of PlatÆÆ.” Glissas, 32. By these words of the poet, “those who occupied under Thebes,” some understand a small town, called Under-Thebes, others PotniÆ, for Thebes was abandoned after the expedition of the Epigoni, and took no part in the Trojan war. Others say that they did take part in it, but that they lived at that time under Cadmeia, in the plain country, after the incursion of the Epigoni, being unable to rebuild the Cadmeia. As Thebes was called Cadmeia, the poet says that the Thebans of that time lived “under Thebes” instead of “under Cadmeia.” 33. The Amphictyonic council usually assembled at Onchestus, in the territory of Haliartus, near the lake CopaÏs, and the Teneric plain. It is situated on a height, devoid of trees, where is a temple of Neptune also without trees. For the poets, for the sake of ornament, called all sacred places groves, although they were without trees. Such is the language of Pindar, when speaking of Apollo: “He traversed in his onward way the earth and sea; he stood upon the heights of the lofty mountains; he shook the caves in their deep recesses, and overthrew the foundations of the sacred groves” or temples. As AlcÆus is mistaken in the altering the name of the river Cuarius, so he makes a great error in placing Onchestus at the extremities of Helicon, whereas it is situated very far from this mountain. 34. The Teneric plain has its name from Tenerus. According to mythology, he was the son of Apollo and Melia, and declared the answers of the oracle at the mountain Ptoum, “At one time he occupied the caves of the three-headed Ptoum;” and he calls Tenerus “the prophet, dwelling in the temple, and having the same name as the soil on which it stands.” The Ptoum is situated above the Teneric plain, and the lake CopaÏs, near AcrÆphium.
Both the oracle and the mountain belonged to the Thebans. AcrÆphium 35. Some say that Arne and Mideia were swallowed up by the lake. Zenodotus, however, when he writes the verse thus, “they who occupied Ascra abounding with vines,” does not seem to have read Hesiod’s description of his native country, and what has been said by Eudoxus, who relates things much more to the disparagement of Ascra. For how could any one believe that such a place could have been described by the poet as “abounding with vines?” Neither are those persons in the right, who substitute in this passage Tarne for Arne, for there is not a place of the name of Tarne to be found in Boeotia, although there is in Lydia. Homer mentions it, “Idomeneus then slew PhÆstus, the son of Borus, the artificer, who came from the fruitful soil of Tarne.” Besides AlalcomenÆ and Tilphossium, which are near the lake, ChÆroneia, Lebadia, and Leuctra, are worthy of notice. 36. The poet mentions AlalcomenÆ, “the Argive Juno and Minerva of AlalcomenÆ.” It has an ancient temple of Minerva, which is held in great veneration. It is said that this was the place of her birth, as Argos was that of Juno, and that Homer gave to both these goddesses designations derived from their native places. Perhaps for this reason he has not mentioned, in the Catalogue, the inhabitants; for having a sacred character, they were exempted from military service. Indeed the city has never suffered devastation by an enemy, although it is inconsiderable in size, and its position is weak, for it is situated in a plain. All in reverence to the goddess abstained from every act of violence; wherefore the Thebans, at the time of the expedition of the Epigoni, abandoning their own city, are said to have taken refuge here, and on the strong mountain above it, the Tilphossium. 37. ChÆroneia 38. At Lebadeia 39. Leuctra 40. The poet next mentions the Orchomenians in the Catalogue, and distinguishes them from the Boeotian nation. He gives to Orchomenus the epithet Minyeian from the nation of the MinyÆ. They say that a colony of the Minyeians went hence to Iolcus, “Not all that is brought to Orchomenus, or to Ægyptian Thebes.” Of its power there is this proof, that the Thebans always paid tribute to the Orchomenians, and to Erginus their king, who it is said was put to death by Hercules. Eteocles, one of the kings that reigned at Orchomenus, first displayed both wealth and power. He built a temple dedicated to the Graces, who were thus honoured by him, either because he had been fortunate in receiving or conferring favours, or perhaps for both these reasons. [For one who was inclined thus to honour these goddesses, must have been naturally disposed to be a benefactor, and he must have possessed the power. But for this purpose wealth is required. For he who has not much cannot give much, nor can he who does not receive much possess much; but when giving and receiving unite, then there is a just exchange. For a vessel which is simultaneously emptied and filled is always full; but he who gives and does not receive cannot succeed in either giving or receiving, for the giver must desist from giving from failure of means. Givers also will desist from giving to him who receives only, and confers no benefits, so that he must fail in receiving. The same may be said of power. For independently of the common saying, “That money is the thing most highly valued, And has the greatest influence in human affairs,” we may examine the subject more in detail. We say, for example, that kings have the greatest power, (???sta d??as?a?,) whence the name, dynasty. Their power is exerted by leading the multitude whither they like, by persuasion or by force. Their power of persuasion chiefly rests in doing acts of kindness; for persuasion by words is not princely, but belongs to the orator. By princely persuasion, I mean, when kings direct and lead men whither they please by acts of kindness. They persuade by acts of kindness, but compel by means of arms. Both power and possessions may be purchased by money. For he has the largest body of forces, who is able to maintain the largest; and he who has the largest possessions, can confer the greatest benefits. The spot which the present lake CopaÏs occupies, was formerly, it is said, dry ground, and was cultivated in various ways by the Orchomenians, who lived near it; and this is alleged as a proof of wealth. 41. Some persons use the word Aspledon It is distant from Orchomenus 42. Panopeus, a Phocian city, and Hyampolis The writers on the Catalogue of Ships [in Homer], have furnished us with these materials, and they have been followed, wherever they introduced anything adapted to the design of this work. CHAPTER III.1. Next to Boeotia and Orchomenus is Phocis, lying along the side of Boeotia to the north, and, anciently, nearly from sea In the same manner as Phocis lies along the side of Boeotia, so are both the divisions of Locris situated with respect to Phocis, for Locris is composed of two parts, being divided by Parnassus. The western part lies along the side of Parnassus, occupies a portion of it, and extends to the CrisÆan Gulf; the eastern part terminates at the sea near Euboea. The inhabitants of the former are called Locri Hesperii, or Locri OzolÆ, and have engraven on their public seal the star Hesperus. The rest are again divided into two bodies: one, the Opuntii, who have their name from the chief city, and border upon the PhocÆans and Boeotians; the other, the Epicnemidii, who have their name from the mountain Cnemis; The whole of Parnassus is esteemed sacred, it contains caves, and other places, which are regarded with honour and 2. The two most celebrated cities of this country are Delphi and Elateia. Delphi is renowned for the temple of the Pythian Apollo, and the antiquity of its oracle; since Agamemnon is said by the poet to have consulted it; for the minstrel is introduced singing of the “fierce contest of Ulysses, and Achilles, the son of Peleus, how once they contended together, and Agamemnon king of men was pleased, for so Phoebus Apollo had foretold by the oracle in the illustrious Pytho.” Delphi then was celebrated on this account. Elateia was famous as being the largest of the cities in that quarter, and for its very convenient position upon the straits; for he, who is the master of this city, commands the entrances into Phocis and Boeotia. First, there are the ŒtÆan mountains, next the mountains of the Locri, and the Phocians; they are not every where passable for invading armies, coming from Thessaly, but having narrow passes distinct from each other, which the adjacent cities guard. Those, who take the cities, are masters 3. We have remarked, that Parnassus itself is situated on the western boundaries of Phocis. The western side of this mountain is occupied by the Locri OzolÆ; on the southern is Delphi, a rocky spot, resembling in shape a theatre; on its summit is the oracle, and also the city, which comprehends a circle of 16 stadia. Above it lies Lycoreia; here the Delphians were formerly settled above the temple. At present they live close to it around the Castalian fountain. In front of the city, on the southern part, is Cirphis, a precipitous hill, leaving in the intermediate space a wooded ravine, through which the river Pleistus flows. Below Cirphis near the sea is Cirrha, an ancient city, from which there is an ascent to Delphi of about 80 stadia. It is situated opposite to Sicyon. Adjoining to Cirrha is the fertile CrisÆan plain. Again, next in order follows another city Crisa, from which the CrisÆan Gulf has its name; then Anticyra, 4. Anticyra still remains, but Cirrha and Crisa 5. The place where the oracle is delivered, is said to be a deep hollow cavern, the entrance to which is not very wide. From it rises up an exhalation which inspires a divine frenzy: over the mouth is placed a lofty tripod on which the Pythian priestess ascends to receive the exhalation, after which she gives the prophetic response in verse or prose. The prose is adapted to measure by poets who are in the service of the temple. PhemonoË is said to have been the first Pythian prophetess, and both the prophetess and the city obtained their appellation from the word Pythesthai, to inquire, (p???s?a?). The first syllable was lengthened, as in the words ????at??, ???at??, d???????. 6. Although the highest honour was paid to this temple on account of the oracle, (for it was the most exempt of any from deception,) yet its reputation was owing in part to its situation in the centre of all Greece, both within and without the isthmus. It was also supposed to be the centre of the habitable 7. As the situation of Delphi is convenient, persons easily assembled there, particularly those from the neighbourhood, of whom the Amphictyonic body is composed. It is the business of this body to deliberate on public affairs, and to it is more particularly intrusted the guardianship of the temple for the common good; for large sums of money were deposited there, and votive offerings, which required great vigilance and religious care. The early history of this body is unknown, but among the names which are recorded, Acrisius appears to have been the first who regulated its constitution, to have determined what cities were to have votes in the council, and to have assigned the number of votes and mode of voting. To some cities he gave a single vote each, or a vote to two cities, or to several cities conjointly. He also defined the class of questions which might arise between the different cities, which were to be submitted to the decision of the Amphictyonic tribunal; and subsequently many other regulations were made, but this body, like that of the AchÆans, was finally dissolved. At first twelve cities are said to have assembled, each of which sent a Pylagoras. The convention was held twice a year, in spring and autumn. But latterly a greater number of cities assembled. They called both the vernal and the autumnal convention PylÆan, because it was held at PylÆ, which has the name also of ThermopylÆ. The PylagorÆ sacrificed to Ceres. In the beginning, the persons in the neighbourhood only assembled, or consulted the oracle, but afterwards people repaired thither from a distance for this purpose, sent gifts, and constructed treasuries, as Croesus, and his father Alyattes, some of the Italians also, and the Siceli (Sicilians). 8. But the wealth, being an object of cupidity, was guarded with difficulty, although dedicated to sacred uses. At present, however, whatever it might have been, the temple at “Nor all the wealth, which the marble threshold of Phoebus Apollo, the Archer, (Aphetor,) The treasuries indicate its riches, and the plunder committed by the Phocians, which gave rise to the Phocic or Sacred war, as it was called. It is however supposed that a spoliation of the temple must have taken place at some more remote period, when the wealth mentioned by Homer disappeared; for no vestige of it whatever was preserved to later times, when Onomarchus and Phayllus pillaged the temple, as the property [then] removed was of a more recent date than that referred to by the poet. For there were once deposited in the treasuries, offerings from spoils, bearing inscriptions with the names of the donors, as of Gyges, of Croesus, of the SybaritÆ, of the SpinetÆ on the Adriatic, and of others also. It would be unbecoming to suppose Some persons, however, understanding the word Aphetor to signify treasure, and the threshold of the aphetor the repository of the treasure under-ground, say, that this wealth was buried beneath the temple, and that Onomarchus and his companions attempted to dig it up by night; violent shocks of an earthquake caused them to fly out of the temple, and desist from their excavation; thus others were impressed with a dread of making similar attempts. 9. Of the shrines, the winged shrine 10. There was anciently a contest held at Delphi, of players on the cithara, who executed a pÆan in honour of the god. It was instituted by Delphians. But after the CrisÆan war the Amphictyons, in the time of Eurylochus, established contests for horses, and gymnastic sports, in which the victor was crowned. These were called Pythian games. The players 11. Ephorus, whom we generally follow, on account of his exactness in these matters, (as Polybius, a writer of repute, testifies,) seems to proceed contrary to his proposed plan, and to the promise which he made at the beginning of his work. For after having censured those writers who are fond of intermixing fable with history, and after having spoken in praise of truth, he introduces, with reference to this oracle, a grave declaration, that he considers truth preferable at all 12. And lower down, when speaking of the Delphians and their origin, he says, that certain persons, called Parnassii, an indigenous tribe, anciently inhabited Parnassus, about which time Apollo, traversing the country, reclaimed men from their savage state, by inducing them to adopt a more civilized mode of life and subsistence; that, setting out from Athens on his way to Delphi, he took the same road along which the Athenians at present conduct the procession of the Pythias; that when he arrived at the Panopeis, he put to death Tityus, who was master of the district, a violent and lawless man; that the Parnassii having joined him informed him of Python, another desperate man, surnamed the Dragon. Whilst he was despatching this man with his arrows, they shouted, Hie Paian; I now return to the Phocians. 13. Immediately on the sea-coast, next after Anticyra, Nor is AbÆ, In the inland parts, next after Delphi, towards the east is Daulis, are understood in a double sense; some persons supposing it to have its name from the tree of the country, but others from a village situated below the Lycoreian territory. 14. Panopeus, the present Phanoteus, the country of Epeius, is on the confines of the district of Lebadeia. Here the fable places the abode of Tityus. But Homer says, that the PhÆacians conducted Rhadamanthus to Euboea, “in order to see Tityus, son of the earth;” Near Lebadeia is Trachin, having the same name as that in ŒtÆa; it is a small Phocian town. The inhabitants are called Trachinii. 15. Anemoreia Some call the place Anemoleia; it was afterwards called by others Hyampolis, Elateia 16. Parapotamii is a settlement on the Cephissus, in the neighbourhood of Phanoteus, ChÆroneia, and Elateia. This place, according to Theopompus, is distant from ChÆroneia about 40 stadia, and is the boundary between the Ambryseis, Panopeis, and Daulieis. It is situated at the entrance from Boeotia to the Phocians, upon an eminence of moderate height, between Parnassus and the mountain [Hadylium, where there is an open space] of 5 stadia in extent, through which runs the Cephissus, affording on each side a narrow pass. This river has its source at LilÆa, a Phocian city, as Homer testifies;
“they who occupied LilÆa, near the source of the Cephissus;” and empties itself into the lake Copais. But Hadylium extends 60 stadia, as far as Hyphanteium, on which Orchomenus is situated. Hesiod also enlarges on the river and its stream, how it takes through the whole of Phocis an oblique and serpentine course; “which, like a serpent, winds along Panopeus and the strong Glechon, and through Orchomenus.” The narrow pass near Parapotamii, or Parapotamia, (for the name is written both ways,) was disputed in [the Phocian war,] for this is the only entrance [into Phocis]. There is a Cephissus in Phocis, another at Athens, and another at Salamis. There is a fourth and a fifth at Sicyon and at Scyrus; [a sixth at Argos, having its source in the Lyrceium]. 17. Daphnus On the subject of Phocis, this may suffice. CHAPTER IV.1. Locris, which we are now to describe, follows next in order. It is divided into two parts, one of which is occupied by the Locri opposite Euboea, and, as we have already said, formerly consisted of two bodies, situated one on each side of Daphnus. The Locri Opuntii had their surname from Opus, 2. Immediately after HalÆ, where the Boeotian coast opposite Euboea terminates, is the Opuntian bay. Opus is the capital, as the inscription intimates, which is engraved on the first of the five pillars at ThermopylÆ, near the Polyandrium: “Opoeis, the capital of the Locri, hides in its bosom those who died in defence of Greece against the Medes.” It is distant from the sea about 15 stadia, and 60 from the naval arsenal. The arsenal is Cynus, 3. Next after Cynus is Alope 4. Next to Daphnus, at the distance of about 20 stadia by sea, is Cnemides, a strong place, opposite to which in Euboea is CenÆum, a promontory, looking towards the west and the Maliac Gulf, and separated by a strait of nearly 20 stadia. At Cnemides we are in the territory of the Locri Epicnemidii. Here are the Lichades, as they are called, three islands, having their name from Lichas; they lie in front of Cnemides. Other islands also are met with in sailing along this coast, which we purposely pass over. At the distance of 20 stadia from Cnemides is a harbour, above which at the same distance, in the interior, is situated Thronium. Then after these is Scarpheia, at a distance of 10 stadia 5. It is not worth while to speak of any of the other cities. Of those mentioned by Homer, Calliarus is no longer inhabited, it is now a well-cultivated plain. Bessa, a sort of plain, does not now exist. It has its name from an accidental quality, for it abounds with woods. ???a? ????s? S?a?f?e??, &c. It ought to be written with a double s, for it has its name from Bessa, a wooded valley, like Nape, 6. Tarphe is situated upon a height, at the distance of 20 stadia from [Thronium]. It has a territory, productive and well wooded; for this place also has its name from its being thickly wooded. It is now called PharygÆ. A temple of Juno PharygÆa is there, called so from the Argive Juno at PharygÆ; and the inhabitants assert that they are of Argive origin. 7. Homer does not mention, at least not in express words, the Locri Hesperii, but only seems to distinguish them from the people of whom we have spoken; “Locri, who dwell beyond the sacred Euboea;” as if there were other Locri. They occupied the cities Amphissa 8. There also is Chalcis, mentioned by the poet Opposite Antirrhium is Molycreia, Amphissa is situated at the extremity of the CrisÆan plain. It was razed, as we have said before, by the Amphictyons. Œanthia and Eupalium belong to the Locri. The whole voyage along the coast of the Locri is a little more than 200 stadia. 9. There is an Alope 10. Ætolians are continuous with the Locri Hesperii, and the Ænianes, who occupy Œta with the Epicnemidii, and between them Dorians. These last are the people who inhabited the Tetrapolis, which is called the capital of all the Dorians. They possessed the cities Erineus, Boeum, Pindus, Cytinium. Pindus is situated above Erineus. A river of the same name flows beside it, and empties itself into the Cephissus, not far from LilÆa. Some writers call Pindus, Acyphas. Ægimius, king of these Dorians, when an exile from his kingdom, was restored, as they relate, by Hercules. He requited this favour after the death of Hercules at Œta by adopting Hyllus, the eldest of the sons of Hercules, and both he and his descendants succeeded him in the kingdom. It was from this place that the HeracleidÆ set out on their return to Peloponnesus. 11. These cities were for some time of importance, although they were small, and their territory not fruitful. They were afterwards neglected. After what they suffered in the Phocian war and under the dominion of the Macedonians, Ætolians, and Athamanes, it is surprising that even a vestige of them should have remained to the time of the Romans. It was the same with the Ænianes, who were exterminated by Ætolians and Athamanes. The Ætolians were a very powerful people, and carried on war together with the Acarnanians. The Athamanes were the last of the EpeirotÆ, who attained distinction when the rest were declining, and acquired power by the assistance of their king Amynander. The Ænianes, however, kept possession of Œta. 12. This mountain extends from ThermopylÆ and the east, to the Ambracian Gulf and the west; it may be said to cut at right angles the mountainous tract, extending from Parnassus as far as Pindus, and to the Barbarians who live beyond. The portion of this mountain verging towards ThermopylÆ 13. This passage is called PylÆ, or gates, straits, and ThermopylÆ, because near the straits are hot springs, which are held in honour as sacred to Hercules. The mountain above is called Callidromus; but some writers call by the name of Callidromus the remaining part of the range extending through Ætolia and Acarnania to the Ambracian Gulf. At ThermopylÆ within the straits are strongholds, as NicÆa, on the sea of the Locri, Teichius and Heracleia above it, formerly called Trachin, founded by the LacedÆmonians. Heracleia is distant from the ancient Trachin about 6 stadia. Next follows Rhoduntia, strong by its position. 14. These places are rendered difficult of access by a rocky country, and by bodies of water, forming ravines through which they pass. For besides the Spercheius, 15. These places were of the greatest celebrity when they formed the keys of the straits. There were frequent contests for the ascendency between the inhabitants without and those within the straits. Philip used to call Chalcis and Corinth the fetters of Greece with reference to the opportunity which they afforded for invasions from Macedonia; and persons in 16. It was at these straits that Leonidas and his companions, together with a small body of persons from the neighbourhood, resisted the numerous forces of the Persians, until the Barbarians, making a circuit of the mountains along narrow paths, surrounded and cut them to pieces. Their place of burial, the Polyandrium, is still to be seen there, and the celebrated inscription sculptured on the LacedÆmonian pillar; “Stranger, go tell LacedÆmon that we lie here in obedience to her laws.” 17. There is also a large harbour here and a temple of Ceres, in which the Amphictyons at the time of every PylÆan assembly offered sacrifice. From the harbour to the Heracleian Trachin are 40 stadia by land, but by sea to CenÆum 18. The Thessalians form the largest and most ancient community. One part of them has been mentioned by Homer, and the rest by many other writers. Homer constantly mentions the Ætolians under one name; he places cities, and not nations dependent upon them, if we except the Curetes, whom we must place in the division of Ætolians. We must begin our account with the Thessalians, omitting very ancient and fabulous stories, and what is not generally admitted, (as we have done in other instances,) but propose to mention what appears suited to our purpose. CHAPTER V.1. The sea-coast, extending from ThermopylÆ to the mouths of the Peneius, 2. These are the middle parts of Thessaly, a district of very fertile country, except that part of it which is overflowed by rivers. The Peneius flows through the middle of the country, and receiving many rivers, frequently overflows. Formerly, according to report, the plain was a lake; it is enclosed on all sides inland by mountains, and the sea-coast is more elevated than the plains. When a chasm was formed, at the place now called Tempe, by shocks of an earthquake, and Ossa was riven from Olympus, the Peneius flowed out through it to the sea, and drained this tract of country. Still there remained the large lake Nessonis, and the lake Boebeis; which is of less extent than the Nessonis, and nearer to the sea-coast.
3. Such then is Thessaly, which is divided into four parts, Phthiotis, HestiÆotis, Thessaliotis, and Pelasgiotis. Phthiotis comprises the southern parts, extending along Œta from the Maliac and (or) PylaÏc Gulf HestiÆotis comprises the western parts and those between Pindus and Upper Macedonia; the rest is occupied by the inhabitants of the plains below HestiÆotis, who are called PelasgiotÆ, and approach close to the Lower Macedonians; by the [Thessalians] also, who possess the country next in order, as far as the coast of Magnesia. The names of many cities might here be enumerated, which are celebrated on other accounts, but particularly as being mentioned by Homer; few of them, however, but most of all Larisa, preserve their ancient importance. 4. The poet having divided the whole of the country, which we call Thessaly, into ten 5. The poet first enumerates the Thessalians subject to Achilles, who occupied the southern side, and adjoined Œta, and the Locri Epicnemidii; “All who dwelt in Pelasgic Argos; they who occupied Alus, Alope, and Trachin; they who possessed Phthia, and Hellas, abounding with beautiful women, were called Myrmidones, Hellenes, and AchÆi.” He joins together with these the people under the command of Phoenix, and makes them compose one common expedition. The poet nowhere mentions the Dolopian forces in the battles near Ilium, neither does he introduce their leader Phoenix, as undertaking, like Nestor, dangerous enterprises. But Phoenix is mentioned by others, as by Pindar, “Who led a brave band of Dolopian slingers, Who were to aid the javelins of the Danai, tamers of horses.” The words of the poet are to be understood according to the figure of the grammarians, by which something is suppressed, for it would be ridiculous for the king to engage in the expedition, (“I live at the extremity of Phthia, chief of the Dolopians,” and his subjects not to accompany him. For [thus] he would not appear to be a comrade of Achilles in the expedition, but only as the commander of a small body of men, and a speaker, and if so, a counsellor. The verses seem to imply this meaning, for they are to this effect, “To be an eloquent speaker, and to achieve great deeds.” From this it appears that Homer considered the forces under Achilles and Phoenix as constituting one body; but the places mentioned as being under the authority of Achilles, are subjects of controversy. Some have understood Pelasgic Argos to be a Thessalian city, formerly situated near Larisa, but now no longer in existence. Others do not understand a city to be meant by this name, but the Thessalian plain, and to have been so called by Abas, who established a colony there from Argos. “they who occupied Phthia and Hellas,” as if they were two countries. And, again, “Then far away through wide Greece I fled and came to Phthia,” and, “There are many AchÆan women in Hellas and Phthia.” The poet then makes these places to be two, but whether cities or countries he does not expressly say. Some of the later writers, who affirm that it is a country, suppose it to have extended from PalÆpharsalus to ThebÆ Phthiotides. In this country also is Thetidium, near both the ancient and the modern Pharsalus; and it is conjectured from Thetidium Thus much, then, respecting the Hellenes. 7. The people under the command of Achilles, Protesilaus, and Philoctetes, are called Phthii. The poet furnishes evidence of this. Having recited in the Catalogue of those under the command of Achilles, “the people of Phthia,” he represents them at the battle at the ships, as remaining in the ships with Achilles, and inactive; but those under the command of Philoctetes, as fighting with Medon [as their leader], and those under the command of Protesilaus, with Podarces [as their chief]. Of these the poet speaks in general terms; “there were Boeoti and Iaones wearing long robes, Locri, Phthii, and illustrious Epeii.” But here he particularizes them; “at the head of the Phthii fought Medon and Podarces, firm in battle. These armed with breastplates fought together with Boeoti, at the head of the magnanimous Phthii, keeping away the enemy from the ships.” Perhaps the people with Eurypylus were called Phthii, as they bordered upon the country of the latter. At present, however, historians assign to Magnesia the country about Ormenium, which was subject to Eurypylus, and the whole of that subject to Philoctetes; but they regard the country under 8. They entertain doubts respecting Halus and Alope, whether Homer means the places which are now comprised in the Phthiotic government, or those among the Locri, since the dominion of Achilles extended hither as well as to Trachin and the ŒtÆan territory. For Halus and Halius, as well as Alope, are on the coast of the Locri. But some substitute Halius for Alope, and write the verse in this manner; “they who inhabited Halus, and Halius, and Trachin.” But the Phthiotic Halus lies under the extremity of the mountain Othrys, which lies to the north of Phthiotis, and borders upon the mountain Typhrestus and the Dolopians, and thence stretches along to the country near the Maliac Gulf. Halus,
I have already spoken of Trachin, and described the nature of the place. The poet mentions it by name. 9. As Homer frequently mentions the Spercheius as a river of the country, having its source in the Typhrestus, a Dryopian mountain, formerly called [Tymphrestus], and emptying itself near ThermopylÆ, between Trachin and Lamia, The Spercheius is distant about 30 stadia from Lamia, which lies above a plain, extending to the Maliac Gulf. That the Spercheius is a river of the country [subject to Achilles], appears from the words of Achilles, who says, that he had devoted his hair to the Spercheius; and from the circumstance, that Menesthius, one of his commanders, was said to be the son of Spercheius and the sister of Achilles. It is probable that all the people under the command of Achilles and Patroclus, and who had accompanied Peleus in his banishment from Ægina, had the name of Myrmidons, but all the PhthiotÆ were called AchÆans. 10. They reckon in the Phthiotic district, which was subject to Achilles, beginning from the Malienses, a considerable number of towns, and among them ThebÆ Phthiotides, Echinus, Lamia, near which the war was carried on between the Macedonians and Antipater, against the Athenians. In this war Leosthenes, the Athenian general, was killed, [and Leonnatus,] one of the companions of Alexander the king. Besides the above-mentioned towns, we must add [Narthac]ium, Erineus, Coroneia, of the same name as the town in Boeotia, MelitÆa, Thaumaci, Proerna, Pharsalus, Eretria, of the same name as the Euboic town, ParacheloÏtÆ, of the same name as those in Ætolia; for here also, near Lamia, is a river Achelous, on the banks of which live the ParacheloÏtÆ. This district, lying to the north, extended to the north-western territory of the AsclepiadÆ, and to the territory of Eurypylus and Protesilaus, inclining to the east; on the south it adjoined the ŒtÆan territory, which was divided into fourteen demi, and contained Heracleia and Dryopis, which was once a community of four cities, (a Tetrapolis,) like Doris, and accounted the capital of the Dryopes in Peloponnesus. To the ŒtÆan district belong also the Acyphas, Parasopias, 11. The poet with sufficient clearness describes the situation of the Dolopes, as at the extremity of Phthia, and says that both they and the PhthiotÆ were under the command of the same chief, Peleus; “I lived,” he says, “at the farthest part of Phthia, king of the Dolopes.” Peleus, however, had conferred on him the authority. This region is close to Pindus, and the places about it, most of which belong to the Thessalians. For in consequence of the renown and ascendency of the Thessalians and Macedonians, those EpeirotÆ, who bordered nearest upon them, became, some voluntarily, others by force, incorporated among the Macedonians and Thessalians. In this manner the Athamanes, Æthices, and Talares were joined to the Thessalians, and the OrestÆ, Pelagones, and ElimiotÆ to the Macedonians. 12. Pindus is a large mountain, having on the north Macedonia, on the west PerrhÆbi, settlers from another country, on the south Dolopes, [and on the east HestiÆotis] which belongs to Thessaly. Close upon Pindus dwelt Talares, a tribe of Molotti, detached from the Molotti about Mount Tomarus, and Æthices, among whom the poet says the Centaurs took refuge when expelled by Peirithous. 13. It remains for us to describe the tract of sea-coast subject to Achilles: we begin from ThermopylÆ, for we have spoken of the coast of Locris, and of the interior. ThermopylÆ is separated from the CenÆum by a strait 70 stadia across. Coasting beyond the PylÆ, it is at a distance from the Spercheius of about 10, (60?) and thence to Phalara 14. Then follows a small island, Myonnesus; next Antron; which was subject to Protesilaus. Thus much concerning the territory subject to Achilles. As the poet, in naming the chiefs, and cities under their rule, has divided the country into numerous well-known parts, and has given an accurate account of the whole circuit of Thessaly, we shall follow him, as before, in completing the description of this region. Next to the people under the command of Achilles, he enumerates those under the command of Protesilaus. They were situated, next, along the sea-coast which was subject to Achilles, as far as Antron. The boundary of the country under the command of Protesilaus, is determined by its being situated without the Maliac Gulf, yet still in Phthiotis, though not within Phthiotis subject to Achilles. Phylace The Demetrium he speaks of These places are in Thessaliotis, one of the four divisions of all Thessaly, in which were the possessions of Eurypylus. Phyllus, where is a temple of the PhyllÆan Apollo, IchnÆ, where the IchnÆan Themis is worshipped, Cierus, and [all the places as far as] Athamania, are included in Thessaliotis. At Antron, in the strait near Euboea, is a sunk rock, called 15. The poet next mentions the people under Eumelus, and the continuous tract of coast which now belongs to Magnesia, and the Pelasgiotis. PherÆ is the termination of the Pelasgic plains towards Magnesia, which plains extend as far as Pelion, a distance of 160 stadia. PagasÆ is the naval arsenal of PherÆ, from which it is distant 90 stadia, and 20 from Iolcus. Iolcus has been razed from ancient times. It was from this place that Pelias despatched Jason and the ship Argo. PagasÆ had its name, The lake Boebeis As civil dissensions and usurpations reduced the flourishing condition of Iolcus, formerly so powerful, so they affected PherÆ in the same manner, which was raised to prosperity, and was destroyed by tyrants. Near Demetrias flows the Anaurus. The continuous line Artemidorus places the Gulf of PagasÆ farther from Demetrias, near the places subject to Philoctetes. In the gulf he says is the island Cicynethus, 16. The poet next enumerates the cities subject to Philoctetes. Methone is not the Thracian Methone razed by Philip. We have already noticed the change of name these places and others in the Peloponnesus have undergone. Other places enumerated as subject to Philoctetes, are Thaumacia, Olizon, and Meliboea, all along the shore next adjacent. In front of the Magnetes lie clusters of islands; the most celebrated are Sciathus, Scyrus however is particularly celebrated in ancient histories. It is also highly reputed for the excellence of its goats, and the quarries of variegated marble, such as the Carystian, the Deucallian, (DocimÆan?) the Synnadic, and the Hierapolitic kinds. For there may be seen at Rome columns, consisting of a single stone, and large slabs of variegated marble, (from Scyrus,) with which the city is embellished both at the public charge and at the expense of individuals, which has caused works of white marble to be little esteemed. 17. The poet having proceeded so far along the Magnesian coast, returns to Upper Thessaly, for beginning from Dolopia and Pindus he goes through the region extending along Phthiotis to Lower Thessaly. These places belong to HistiÆotis, which was formerly called Doris. When it was in the possession of the PerrhÆbi, who destroyed HistiÆotis in Euboea, and had removed the inhabitants by force to the continent, they gave the country the name of HistiÆotis, on account of the great numbers of HistiÆans among the settlers. This country and Dolopia are called Upper Thessaly, which is in a straight line with Upper Macedonia, as Lower Thessaly is in a straight line with Lower Macedonia. Tricca, Ithome, which has the same name as the Messenian Ithome, ought not, they say, to be pronounced in this manner, but should be pronounced without the first syllable, Thome, for this was its former name. At present, it is changed to [ThumÆum]. It is a spot strong by nature, and in reality rocky. It lies between four strong-holds, which form a square, Tricca, Metropolis, PelinnÆum, and Gomphi. “among the Venuses, (for the goddess bears several titles,) Venus Castnietis surpasses all others in wisdom,” for she alone accepts the sacrifice of swine. Certainly Callimachus, if any person could be said to possess information, was well informed, and it was his object, as he himself says, all his life to relate these fables. Later writers, however, have proved that there was not one Venus only, but several, who accepted that sacrifice, from among whom the goddess worshipped at Metropolis came, and that this [foreign] rite was delivered down by one of the cities which contributed to form that settlement.
Pharcadon also is situated in the HestiÆotis. The Peneius and the Curalius flow through it. The Curalius, after flowing beside the temple of the Itonian Minerva, empties itself into the Peneius. The Peneius itself rises in Mount Pindus, as I have before said. It leaves Tricca, PelinnÆum, and Pharcadon on the left hand, and takes its course beside Atrax and Larisa. After having received the rivers of the Thessaliotis it flows onwards through Tempe, and it empties itself into the sea. Historians speak of Œchalia, the city of Eurytus, as existing in these parts, in Euboea also, and in Arcadia; but some give it one name, others another, as I have said in the description of Peloponnesus. They inquire particularly, which of these was the city taken by Hercules, and which was the city intended by the author of the poem, “The Capture of Œchalia”? The places, however, were subject to the AsclepiadÆ. 18. The poet next mentions the country which was under the dominion of Eurypylus; “They who possessed Ormenium and the spring Hypereia, And they who occupied Asterium and the white peaks of Titanus.” Ormenium is now called Orminium. It is a village situated below Pelion, near the Pagasitic Gulf, but was one of the cities which contributed to form the settlement of Demetrias, as I have before said. The lake Boebeis must be near, because both Boebe and Ormenium belonged to the cities lying around Demetrias. Ormenium is distant by land 27 stadia from Demetrias. The site of Iolcus, which is on the road, is distant 7 stadia from Demetrias, and the remaining 20 from Ormenium. Demetrius of Scepsis says, that Phoenix came from Ormenium, and that he fled thence from his father Amyntor, the son of Ormenus, to Phthia, to king Peleus. For this place was founded by Ormenus, the son of Cercaphus, the son of Æolus. The sons of Ormenus were Amyntor and EuÆmon; the son of the former was Phoenix, and of the latter, Eurypylus. The succession to his possessions was preserved secure for Eurypylus, after the departure of Phoenix from his home, and we ought to write the verse of the poet in this manner: “as when I first left Ormenium, abounding with flocks,” instead of “left Hellas, abounding with beautiful women.” But Crates makes Phoenix a PhocÆan, conjecturing this from the helmet of Meges, which Ulysses wore on the night expedition; of which helmet the poet says, “Autolycus brought it away from Eleon, out of the house of Amyntor, the son of Ormenus, having broken through the thick walls.” Now Eleon was a small city on Parnassus, and by Amyntor, the son of Ormenus, he could not mean any other person than the father of Phoenix, and that Autolycus, who lived on Parnassus, was in the habit of digging through the houses of his neighbours, which is the common practice of every house-breaker, and not of persons living at a distance. But Demetrius the Scepsian says, that there is no such place on Parnassus as Eleon, but Neon, which was built after the Trojan war, and that digging through houses was not confined to robbers of the neighbourhood. Other things might be advanced, but I am unwilling to insist long on this subject. Others write the words “from Heleon;” but this is a Tanagrian town; and the words “Then far away I fled through Hellas and came to Phthia,” would make this passage absurd. Hypereia is a spring in the middle of the city of the PherÆi [subject to Eumelus]. It would therefore be absurd [to assign it to Eurypylus]. Titanus 19. Continuous with this portion of Thessaly are the people subject to Polypoetes. This country was formerly inhabited by PerrhÆbi, who “he drove from Pelion to the neighbourhood of the Æthices,” but he delivered up the plains to the LapithÆ. The PerrhÆbi kept possession of some of these parts, those, namely, towards Olympus, and in some places they lived intermixed altogether with the LapithÆ. Argissa, the present Argura, is situated upon the banks of the Peneius. Atrax lies above it at the distance of 40 stadia, close to the river. The intermediate country along the side of the river was occupied by PerrhÆbi. Some call Orthe the citadel of the PhalannÆi. Phalanna is a PerrhÆbic city on the Peneius, near Tempe. The PerrhÆbi, oppressed by the LapithÆ, retreated in great numbers to the mountainous country about Pindus, and to the Athamanes and Dolopes; but the LarisÆi became masters of the country and of the PerrhÆbi who remained there. The LarisÆi lived near the Peneius, but in the neighbourhood of the PerrhÆbi. They occupied the most fertile portion of the plains, except some of the very deep valleys near the lake Nessonis, into which the river, when it overflowed, usually carried away a portion of the arable ground belonging to the LarisÆi, who afterwards remedied this by making embankments. These people were in possession of PerrhÆbia, and levied imposts until Philip became master of the country. Larisa is a place situated on Ossa, and there is Larisa Cremaste, by some called Pelasgia. In Crete also is a city Larisa, the inhabitants of which were embodied with those of Hierapytna; and from this place the plain below is called the Larisian plain. In Peloponnesus the citadel of the Argives is Oloosson, called the White, from its chalky soil, Elone, and Gonnus are PerrhÆbic cities. The name of Elone was changed to that of Leimone. It is now in ruins. Both lie at the foot of Olympus, not very far from the river Eurotas, which the poet calls Titaresius. 20. The poet speaks both of this river and of the PerrhÆbi in the subsequent verses, when he says, “Guneus brought from Cyphus two and twenty vessels. His followers were Enienes and PerÆbi, firm in battle. They dwelt near the wintry Dodona, and tilled the fields about the lovely Titaresius.” He mentions therefore these places as belonging to the PerrhÆbi, which comprised a part of the HestiÆotis. The water of the Peneius is clear, that of the Titaresius is unctuous; a property arising from some matter, which prevents the streams mingling with each other, “but runs over the surface like oil.” Because the PerrhÆbi and LapithÆ lived intermingled together, Simonides calls all those people PelasgiotÆ, who occupy the eastern parts about Gyrton and the mouths of the Peneius, Ossa, Pelion, and the country about Demetrias, and the places in the plain, Larisa, Crannon, Scotussa, Mopsium, Atrax, and the parts near the lakes Nessonis and Boebeis. The poet mentions a few only of these places, either because they were not inhabited at all, or badly inhabited on account of the inundations which had happened at various times. For the poet does not mention even the lake Nessonis, but the Boebeis only, which is much smaller, for its water remained constant, and this alone remains, while the former probably was at one time filled irregularly to excess, and at another contained no water. We have mentioned Scotussa in our accounts of Dodona, and of the oracle, in Thessaly, when we observed that it was near Scotussa. Near Scotussa is a tract called CynoscephalÆ. It was here that the Romans with their allies the Ætolians, and their general Titus Quintius, defeated in a great battle Philip, son of Demetrius, king of Macedon. 21. Something of the same kind has happened in the territory of Magnetis. For Homer having enumerated many places of this country, calls none of them Magnetes, but those only whom he indicates in terms obscure, and not easily understood; “They who dwelt about Peneius and Pelion with waving woods.” Now about the Peneius and Pelion dwell those (already mentioned by Homer) who occupied Gyrton, and Ormenium, and many other nations. At a still greater distance from Pelion, according to later writers, were Magnetes, beginning from the people, that were subject to Eumelus. These Formerly they called the Gyrtonians PhlegyÆ, from Phlegyas, the brother of Ixion; and the Crannonii, Ephyri, so that there is a doubt, when the poet says, “These two from Thrace appeared with breastplates armed against Ephyri, or haughty PhlegyÆ,” what people he meant. 22. The same is the case with the PerrhÆbi and Ænianes, for Homer joins them together, as if they dwelt near each other; and it is said by later writers, that, for a long period, the settlement of the Ænianes was in the Dotian plain. Now this plain is near PerrhÆbia, which we have just mentioned, Ossa, and the lake Boebeis: it is situated about the middle of Thessaly, but enclosed by itself within hills. Hesiod speaks of it in this manner; “Or, as a pure virgin, who dwells on the sacred heights of the Twin hills, comes to the Dotian plain, in front of Amyrus, abounding with vines, to bathe her feet in the lake Boebias.” The greater part of the Ænianes were expelled by the LapithÆ, and took refuge in Œta, where they established their power, having deprived the Dorians and the Malienses of some portions of country, extending as far as Heracleia and Echinus. Some of them however remained about Cyphus, a PerrhÆbic mountain, where is a settlement of the same name. As to the PerrhÆbi, some of them collected about the western parts of Olympus and settled there, on the borders of the Macedonians. But a large body took shelter among the mountains near Athamania, and Pindus. But at present few, if any, traces of them are to be found. The Magnetes, who are mentioned last in the Thessalian catalogue of the poet, must be understood to be those situated within Tempe, extending from the Peneius and Ossa to Pelion, and bordering upon the PieriotÆ in Macedonia, who occupy the country on the other side of the Peneius as far as the sea. Homolium, or Homole, (for both words are in use,) must If we are to extend their possessions as far as the sea-coast, which is very near Homolium, there is reason for assigning to them Rhizus, and ErymnÆ, which lies on the sea-coast in the tract subject to Philoctetes and Eumelus. Let this however remain unsettled. For the order in which the places as far as the Peneius follow one another, is not clearly expressed, and as the places are not of any note, we need not consider that uncertainty as very important. The coast of Sepias, however, is mentioned by tragic writers, and was chaunted in songs on account of the destruction of the Persian fleet. It consists of a chain of rocks. Between Sepias and CasthanÆa, a village situated below Pelion, is the sea-shore, where the fleet of Xerxes was lying, when an east wind began to blow violently; some of the vessels were forced on shore, and immediately went to pieces, others were driven on Hipnus, a rocky spot near Pelion, others were lost at Meliboea, others at CasthanÆa. The whole of the coasting voyage along Pelion, to the extent of about 80 stadia, is among rocks. That along Ossa is of the same kind and to the same extent. Between them is a bay of more than 200 stadia in extent, upon which is situated Meliboea. The whole voyage from Demetrias, including the winding of the bays, to the Peneius is more than 1000 stadia, from the Spercheius 800 stadia more, and from the Euripus 2350 stadia. Hieronymus assigns a circuit of 3000 stadia to the plain country in Thessaly and Magnesia, and says, that it was inhabited by Pelasgi, but that these people were driven into Italy by LapithÆ, and that the present Pelasgic plain is that in which are situated Larisa, Gyrton, PherÆ, Mopsium, Boebeis, Ossa, Homole, Pelion, and Magnetis. Mopsium has not its name from Mopsus, the son of Manto the daughter of Teiresias, but from Mopsus, one of the LapithÆ, who sailed with the Argonauts. Mopsopus, from whom Attica is called Mopsopia, is a different person. 23. This then is the account of the several parts of Thessaly. In general we say, that it was formerly called PyrrhÆa, from Pyrrha, the wife of Deucalion; HÆmonia, from HÆmon; and Thettalia, from Thettalus, the son of HÆmon. But some writers, after dividing it into two portions, say, that Deucalion obtained by lot the southern part, and called it Pandora, from his mother; that the other fell to the share of HÆmon, from whom it was called HÆmonia; that the name of one part was changed to Hellas, from Hellen, the son of Deucalion, and of the other to Thettalia, from Thettalus, the son of HÆmon. But, according to some writers, it was the descendants of Antiphus and Pheidippus, sons of Thettalus, descended from Hercules, who invaded the country from Ephyra in Thesprotia, and called it after the name of Thettalus their progenitor. It has been already said that once it had the name of Nessonis, as well as the lake, from Nesson, the son of Thettalus. |