The Horse. How Obtained. Description of. Inspection of. Power of Teams. Weight behind Artillery-teams. Gaits of Artillery. Dentition. Plate of Diseases. Sick Horses. Health and Disease. Veterinary Medicines. Drugs and Doses, and How to Administer Them. Mashes, Poultices, etc. Veterinary Notes, with Symptoms and Treatment of Various Diseases. Stables and Stable Management. Grooming. Feeding and Kinds of Food. Watering. Training Horses. Rules for Treatment and Care of Horses. Destruction of Horses.

HORSES.

HOW OBTAINED, DESCRIPTION, ETC.

Horses are obtained from the Quartermaster Department. Submit requisitions, generally in triplicate, stating the color desired, and whether the horse is for lead-, swing-, or wheel-team.

The artillery-horse must be sound, free from vicious habits, a square trotter, well broken to harness, and must conform as nearly as possible to the following description: A gelding of uniform and hardy color; in good condition; from fifteen to sixteen hands high; weight of the lead-horse not less than 1050 pounds, and that of the wheel-horse not more than 1300 pounds; from four to eight years old; full-chested; shoulders sufficiently broad to support the collar, but not too heavy; full-barrelled, with broad, deep loins; short-coupled, with solid hindquarters; feet sound and in good order. Long-legged, loose-jointed, long-barrelled, and narrow-chested horses, as well as those which are restive, vicious, or too free in harness, are to be rejected.

SELECTING HORSES.

Care must be taken not only that they possess the form and qualities necessary for the work they are likely to be employed in, but also that they are docile and easy-tempered and sound. Form differs according to breed, and upon it depends the fitness of the animal for draught or saddle purposes. For either purpose a horse should walk and trot well. Horses with deeply scarred backs (or, if for harness, shoulders), or which show signs of having been much cut with the girth (girth-galled), should not be selected, if avoidable. If for riding purposes, the withers should be neither too high nor too low, and the shoulders oblique; forearms long and muscular; chest moderately wide and deep; ribs well arched behind saddle and continued close to haunch; loins broad; hindquarters long, wide, and muscular; tail set on as near the level of the croup as possible; limbs from knees and hocks downwards short, wide laterally, with the tendons and ligaments standing well apart from the bone, and distinctly defined. Neither beneath knee nor hock should they be narrow or abruptly tied in; knees wide in front, hocks sideways. Pasterns not too long or oblique, inclined out or in, nor yet too upright; hoofs black, if possible, and circular in shape; wall smooth and even from coronet to ground, and not marked by horizontal rings; heels well spread; soles concave and strong; frogs well developed, sound, and firm. The foot in progression should be placed evenly on the ground, neither toe nor heel coming too markedly in contact with it. Coarse-bred horses, with hairy legs and large, flat feet, should never be chosen. Fore limbs should be examined for broken knees, splints, sprains of tendons and ligaments (indicated by thickening, and, if recent, by tenderness on manipulation), ring-bone (an uneven deposit of bony matter around the lower end of the pastern), side-bone (ossification of the elastic cartilages on each side of the foot toward the heels), sand-crack in hoof (usually in the inside quarter of fore foot), chronic laminitis (manifested by horse putting heels first to the ground, convex soles, walls hollow in the middle in front, bulging at toe, and made uneven by rings on surface), navicular disease (usually shown by contracted heels, very concave soles, lameness, and digging toes in the ground during walk or trot, wearing the shoe more at point of toe than elsewhere, extending limb forward and elevating heels while at rest), corns (a bruise of sole at the heels, only to be discovered by removal of shoe and paring sole at this part).

Hind limbs should he examined for spavin in hock (a bony tumor in front of inside hock, best seen by standing at animal's shoulder and viewing this part of the joint in profile; compare both hocks in this way, and if there is any inequality, and the prominence be hard, it is almost certain to be spavin; lameness or stiffness of the limb is generally present), sprain of tendon inside hock (marked by a swelling inside point of hock), curb (a sprain of ligament at back and below point of hock, seen as a more or less prominent convex swelling on looking at the hock sideways), sprain of back tendons or ligaments (as in fore limb), ring-bone (as in fore limb).

The eyes should be healthy; examine them by moving the finger smartly near the eye, but without touching it, when the animal will wink if it be not blind; for careful examination, inspect the eye in sunlight, then cover with hand for a few seconds to ascertain if the pupil contracts and enlarges; to examine interior of eye, employ a lighted candle in a darkened stable.

Examine head behind ears, withers, back, and shoulders for bruises; nostrils for glanders (if there be any discharge); turn round suddenly and back the horse to discover if there is sprain of back, and if hindquarters are moved firmly and promptly. Inspect skin for mange and ringworm, heels for grease and cracks, and coronets for fistulous wounds.

Have him ridden very rapidly for a couple of hundred yards, stopped suddenly, and then place ear in rear of left shoulder to listen if the heart beats properly, and also near the nostril to hear if his breathing is all right.

If a hollow cough is present, observe motion of abdomen at flank; should this have a double ascending movement or "lift" in expiration, the animal is broken-winded. In galloping, or when suddenly menaced by a blow of a whip, should a grunt or shrill whistling sound be heard in inspiration, the animal should be rejected. If, during rapid motion, a wheezing noise be heard in expiration or inspiration, the horse is unsound.

Before selection is completed the horse should be ridden if for saddle purposes, or driven in harness if for draught.

Every animal will be branded with the letters "U. S." on the left fore shoulder on the day he is received. They are also branded on the left hip with the letter of the battery and the number of the regiment. A complete descriptive list will be made of each animal at the time of purchase, which will accompany him wherever he may be transferred.

• A. Molar teeth
• B H. Canine or tush
• C I. Incisors
• E. Atlas
• G. Orbit
• M. Cariniform cartilage
• N. Ensiform cartilage
• O. Coracoid process of scapula
• P. Spine
• Q. Cartilage
• R. Trochanter major
• S. Subtrochanterian crest
• T. Trochlea
• U. External condyle
• V. Patella
• W. Hock-joint

• 1. Cranium
• 2. Lower jaw
• 3. Cervical vertebrÆ
• 4, 4. Dorsal vertebrÆ
• 5, 5. Lumbar vertebrÆ
• 6, 6. Sacrum
• 7, 7. Coccygeal vertebrÆ
• 8. Sternum
• 9, 9. True ribs
• 10, 10. Cartilages of true ribs
• 11, 11. False ribs
• 12, 12. Cartilages of false ribs
• 13. Scapula
• 14. Humerus
• 15. Radius
• 16. Elbow
• 17. Os pisiforme
• 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23. Carpal bones
• 24. Large metacarpal bone
• 25. Outer small metacarpal bone
• 26. Inner small metacarpal bone
• 27, 28. Sesamoid bones
• 29. Os suffraginis
• 30. Os coronÆ
• 31. Os pedis
• 32. Wing of the pedal bone
• 33, 34, 35, 36. Os innominatum
• 37. Femur
• 38. Tibia
• 39. Os calcis
• 40. Astragalus
• 41, 42, 43, 44. Tarsal bones
• 45. Large metatarsal bone
• 46. Outer small metatarsal bone
• 47. Inner small metatarsal bone

Head.

• 1. Muzzle
• 2. Nostril
• 3. Forehead
• 4. Jaw
• 5. Poll

Neck.

• 6, 6. Crest
• 7. Throttle or windpipe

Forequarter.

• 8, 8. Shoulder-blade
• 9. Point of shoulder
• 10. Bosom or breast
• 11, 11. True arm
• 12. Elbow
• 13. Fore arm (arm)
• 14. Knee
• 15. Cannon-bone
• 16. Back sinew
• 17. Fetlock or pastern joint
• 18. Coronet
• 19. Hoof or foot
• 20. Heel

Body or Middle Piece.

• 21. Withers
• 22. Back
• 23, 23. Ribs (forming together the barrel or chest)
• 24, 24. The circumference of the chest at this point, called the girth
• 25. The loins
• 26. The croup
• 27. The hip
• 28. The flank
• 29. The sheath
• 30. The root of the dock or tail

Hindquarter.

• 31. The hip-joint, round, or whirlbone
• 32. The stifle-joint
• 33, 33. Lower thigh or gaskin
• 34. The quarters
• 35. The hock
• 36. The point of the hock
• 37. The curb-place
• 38. The cannon-bone
• 39. The back sinew
• 40. Pastern or fetlock joint
• 41. Coronet
• 42. Hoof or foot
• 43. Heel
• 44. Spavin-place

POWER OF TEAMS.

If a horse has to work at speed (as in the case of horse-artillery) he can, as a rule, under service conditions, draw about 600 pounds, or carry on his back about 260 pounds, although in some services he is required to do more.

In light field-artillery, where great speed is not expected, this may he increased to about 700 pounds; for heavy field-artillery a further increase may be made.

Metcalfe gives: horse-artillery, 650 pounds; light field-artillery, 700 pounds; heavy field-artillery, 850 pounds; and siege-artillery, 1000 pounds; and the English Handbook contains the following table giving a rough estimate of what teams may be called upon to transport:

	Teams of 4 horses.	Teams of 6 horses.	Teams of 8 horses.	Teams of 12 horses.
	Cwt.	Cwt.	Cwt.	Cwt.
Horse-artillery batteries	20 to 24	33 to 36	........	........
Field-batteries	26 to 30	39 to 45	48 to 56	........
Batteries of position	........	........	70	5 tons

Owing to their interference with each other's motions, the maximum load drawn by teams of horses increases less rapidly than does the number of horses in draught. In horse-artillery teams 6 horses is the greatest number that can be usefully employed; in the heavier field-batteries 8 horses are sometimes used, but not when it can be avoided, as it makes a cumbersome team and a large percentage of the working power of the extra pair is lost.

Bad roads, insufficient food, rapid movement for short times, and forced marches require that the weights behind horses should be kept at a minimum consistent with the service required. The average weights exclusive of cannoneers of all the principal military powers are: horse-artillery—gun-carriage, 634 lbs.; caisson, 727 lbs.;[7] and field-artillery—gun-carriage, 718 lbs.; caisson, 796 lbs.

GAITS FOR ARTILLERY.

The Manoeuvring Gallop is at the rate of twelve miles an hour (352 yards in a minute). This gait is used on occasions by horse-artillery, and in great emergencies for very short distances by field-artillery.

The Manoeuvring Trot or Trot-out is at the rate of eight miles an hour (235 yards in a minute.)

The Canter is at the same rate, viz., eight miles an hour.

The Slow Trot is at the rate of from six to six and one half miles an hour, and should be used by light artillery for distances of several miles when necessary to move at a faster gait than a walk.

At drills and on road marches it should be considerably employed so that teams may move easily and with unnecessary fatigue when called on to cover long distances rapidly.

The Walk is at the rate of four miles an hour (117 yards in a minute). It is the pace usually employed on the line of march for field-batteries, although they move, as does horse-artillery, at an alternate trot and walk, covering about five miles an hour.

DENTITION.

Age of Horse from One to Nine Years, as Indicated by Teeth (Incisors) in Lower Jaw.—The age of a horse is determined by:

1. The character of the teeth, i.e., whether they be temporary or permanent.

2. The period at which they are cut.

3. The condition of the teeth themselves.

Temporary or milk teeth are distinguished from the permanent teeth by being smaller, whiter, and having more distinct necks. The fangs are small and have little attachment to the gums. The jaws are plump, fleshy, and round, and the teeth are arranged in something like a semicircle. Permanent teeth are larger, broader, wider in the necks and more discolored than milk-teeth. The plumpness and circularity of the jaw is less than in the young colt, and gradually decreases. In old age the teeth are arranged in a nearly straight line.

During the first ten months the six incisors appear. At twelve months the teeth show little signs of wear, the corner teeth are mere shells, having no inner walls, and the teeth are close together.

At two years the corner teeth have grown up to level of others; the centre teeth are worn. The teeth stand wide apart at necks because of growth of jaw.

Shortly before three years old the two centre milk-teeth are shed and replaced by permanent teeth.

Shortly before four years old the next two milk-teeth on either side are shed, and permanent ones appear.

Shortly before five years old the corner milk-teeth are shed, and permanent ones appear, but as shells only, having no internal walls.

At about six years old the inner wall of the corner teeth has grown up level with outer wall.

The tusks appear at about three and one half years, are matured at six, and then begin to wear away. Usually absent in mares.

Between three and five years the marks or cups in the permanent teeth are very plain.

At six the marks are well worn in centre teeth.

At seven the marks disappear from centre teeth, are well worn in the two next, but plain in corner teeth.

At eight the marks have all disappeared, except in corner teeth, in which they are worn.

At nine the marks are usually gone from all the incisor teeth in lower jaw.

The temporary incisors in upper jaw fall out usually a little earlier than those in lower jaw. The permanent incisors in upper jaw are longer and larger than the lower, and the mark is deeper and remains longer than in the lower teeth.

Beyond nine years the teeth become angular and foul, the tusks worn, and the age only to be determined accurately by much experience and observation.

Old horses frequently suffer from uneven and sharp-edged grinders. Their mouths should be occasionally examined, particularly if the animal be off his feed, and, if necessary, the teeth should be rasped off.

SICK HORSES.

The horses on sick report are in charge of the stable sergeant, who reports daily to the captain for instructions as to their treatment.

In garrison the battery officer of the day inspects the sick horses daily, and records in his guard-report book the names of the horses on sick report, and the treatment they receive.

In treating sick horses it is to be observed that very little medicine is ordinarily required, and that unnecessary doses do a great deal of harm.

If a horse sustain an injury, neglect his feed, refuse his water, or give any evidence of sickness, it will be at once reported.

No horse on sick report will be taken from the stable or picket-line for exercise or work without permission from proper authority.

If there be at any time a suspicious discharge from one or both nostrils of an animal, it must be immediately reported.

To prevent contagion to man or beast, an animal that shows any decided symptoms of glanders is to be isolated at once, and confined or tied up in some locality where no other animal can approach him.

A glandered horse should be killed as soon as possible. The stall in which he stood is torn down and all the woodwork burned and the ironwork disinfected, or otherwise it is closed and must remain empty until the rack, manger, and every part of the iron and woodwork, as also the vessels used in watering and feeding, and his saddle and bit, have been three or four times thoroughly washed with a 5 per cent solution of carbolic acid or a 1 to 1000 solution of corrosive sublimate; all parts to which the latter has been applied should be thoroughly scrubbed with hot water to remove all traces of the poisonous salt. The application of a lime wash to all the stalls, after complete disinfection, will be desirable. Small articles, such as bits, etc., can be disinfected by keeping them immersed for a half-hour in boiling water. All articles of little value that have been used with a glandered horse, such as halters, bridles, horse-cloths, saddle-cloths, blankets, nose-bags, currycombs and brushes, etc., should be destroyed.

Stables occupied by infected or suspected horses should be disinfected daily by washing exposed surfaces with a 5 per cent solution of carbolic acid, and nose-bags, halters, buckets used for drinking-water, etc., should be carefully washed with the same solution or with boiling water.

HEALTH AND DISEASE.

Points.	Corresponding to the Condition of
	Health.	Disease.
1. Temperament	Vivacious.	Dull.
2. Coat	Healthy.	Staring.
3. Membranes	Pale and moist.	Florid and dry.
4. Appetite	Good.	Bad.
5. Pulse	36 to 40 per minute.	50 to 90.
6. Respirations	8 to 12 per minute.	20 to 50.
7. Temperature, external	Warm.	Cold.
8. Temperature, internal	98°.4 to 100°.	101° to 105°.

On entering a stall to determine the state of an animal the temperament and coat are first observed. To examine the membranes, elevate the nostrils so as to obtain a good view of the interior, ascertain the condition of the appetite by observation or a trustworthy source. Take the pulse for a full minute. The best and most usual place to take it is beneath the lower jaw, at a spot corresponding to the swell of the jaw; this failing, as it sometimes does in cases of extreme weakness, the artery inside the arm, near where the leg joins the body, should be sought for. The number of beats, whether soft or hard, and whether regular or intermittent, should be noted.

The respirations are best observed at the flank, an inspiration and expiration going to make up one respiration.

The external temperature is ascertained by feeling the ears and extremities.

The internal temperature is obtained by means of a clinical thermometer. Set the instrument at 98°.4 F., insert it in the dock, and allow it to remain in the body three or four minutes.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE.

1. Caries of the lower jaw
2. Fistula of the parotid duct
3. Bony excrescence or exostosis of the lower jaw
4. Swelling by pressure of the bridle
5. Poll-evil
6. Inflamed parotid gland
7. Inflamed jugular vein
8. Fungus tumor, produced by pressure of the collar
9. Fistula in the withers
10. Saddle-gall
11. Tumor of the elbow
12. Induration of the knee
13. Clap of the back sinews
14. Malanders
15. Splint
16. Ring-bone
17. A tread upon the coronet
18. Quittor
19. Sand-crack
20. Contracted or ring foot of a foundered horse
21. Capped hock
22. Malanders
23. Spavin
24. Curb
25. Swelled sinews
26. Thick leg
27. Grease
28. A crack in front of the foot, called cow-crack
29. Quarter-crack
30. Ventral hernia
31. Rat-tail

VETERINARY MEDICINES.

INTERNALLY ADMINISTERED.

Medicines that Act on the Stomach and Intestines or their Contents.

Cathartics.—Agents that cause purgation: aloes, calomel, Epsom salts, common salt and sulphur, croton, linseed, and castor oils, injections and mashes.

Anthelmintics.—Agents that destroy or expel worms: nearly all cathartics, tartarated antimony, and sulphide of iron.

Nauseants.—Agents that induce nausea: aloes and white hellebore.

Antacids.—Agents that counteract acidity: soap and the carbonates of lime, magnesia, soda, and potash.

Alteratives.—Agents that bring about a healthy state of the system: aloes, calomel, cod-liver oil, sulphur, nitrate of potash.

Cardiacs.—Agents that invigorate the system by stimulating the stomach: Cayenne pepper, ginger, gentian, caraway seeds.

Demulcents.—Agents that lubricate or sheathe surfaces: glycerine, gum-arabic, linseed, and starch.

Antidotes.—Agents that counteract the effects of poisons: depending upon the kind of poison.

Medicines that Act upon the Brain, Nerves, and Nerve-centres.

Excitants.—Agents that stimulate the brain, nerves, and nerve-centres, and thus increase their energy: alcohol, ammonia, arnica, strychnia.

Narcotics.—Agents that are excitants, but whose action is followed by depression of energy: camphor, henbane, belladonna, opium.

Sedatives.—Agents that depress nervous power or lower circulation: digitalis, hydrocyanic acid, tartarated antimony, and chloroform.

Antispasmodics.—Agents that prevent or allay cramps: alcohol, ethers, oil of turpentine, opium.

Medicines that Act upon Glands or Glandular Structures.

Stimulants.—Agents that act upon the glands generally: calomel, oxide of mercury, iodine and its compounds.

Diuretics.—Agents that increase the secretion of urine: copaiba, nitrate of potash, turpentine, resin.

Parturients.—Agents that cause contraction of the womb: ergot of rye.

Lithontriptics.—Agents that dissolve calculi: hydrochloric acid, the fixed alkalies.

Diaphoretics.—Agents that cause perspiration: colchicum, tartar emetic, acetate of ammonia, spirits of nitrous ether.

Medicines that Act upon the Muscular Fibre.

Tonics.—Agents that act gradually, and permanently improve digestion and nutrition: gentian, the sulphates of iron, copper, and zinc, cascarilla bark, camomile flowers.

Astringents.—Agents that cause contraction of muscular fibre: alum, catechu, oak-bark, tannic acid.

EXTERNALLY ADMINISTERED.

Medicines that Act upon the Skin and External Parts by Direct Application.

Refrigerants.—Agents that diminish morbid heat of a part: salt and cold water, solutions of acetate and subacetate of lead.

Discutients.—Agents that dispel enlargements: compounds of iodine, soap liniment, camphor.

Rubefacients.—Agents that cause heat or redness of skin without blistering: liniments of ammonia, tar and turpentine, vinegar.

Vesicants.—Agents that produce blisters: cantharides, tartar emetic, croton-oil, hot water.

Caustics.—Agents that decompose the part to which applied: carbolic, nitric, sulphuric, and hydrochloric acids; chlorides of antimony and zinc, corrosive sublimate, nitrate of silver, sulphate of copper, hot iron.

Pyogenics.—Agents that induce suppuration of wounds: liniment and ointment of turpentine, black hellebore.

Detergents.—Agents that cleanse wounds and skin and excite them to healthy action: acetate of copper, creosote, liniment of sulphate of copper, ointment of chloride of ammonia and nitrate of mercury, sulphur and some of its compounds.

Astringents.—Agents that diminish discharge from wounds: alum, sulphate of zinc, acetate of lead.

Antiseptics.—Agents that destroy putrid condition of wounds: carbolic acid, salicylic acid, iodoform, charcoal, chloride of zinc, nitrate of potash, permanganate of potash, yeast.

Traumatics.—Agents that excite healing in wounds: aloes, myrrh, collodion, oil of tar, resin, solutions of sulphate of copper and zinc.

Emollients.—Agents that soften and relax parts: fomentations, lard, olive-oil, palm-oil, poultices.

DRUGS AND DOSES, AND HOW TO ADMINISTER THEM.

The most convenient method to administer medicine is either in the form of a bolus, gelatine capsule, or drench. Before proceeding to give medicine turn the animal around in stall in a position so that he cannot run backwards. If giving a drench, either hold head up by hand or pull it up by placing halter-shank over some high object, pulling head up; then place horn or bottle inside of mouth. Take plenty of time; induce the horse to move his tongue, instead of pinching his throat and pulling out tongue, as is customary and wrong in all cases. The tongue must pass back in mouth, or else horse cannot swallow. To give a bolus, pull out tongue gently with left hand, keeping the mouth open, pass bolus back over root of tongue with right; by proceeding slowly very little trouble will be experienced.

If the animal will eat, medicine in the form of powder (provided it be not very repulsive to the taste) may be given in grain or mash, or dissolved in the water given to drink.

Aconite (Tincture).—Useful in cases of fevers and inflammation. Dose, 15 to 30 drops, repeated every three hours; should be given in one ounce cold water.

Alcohol.—Useful as a stimulant; one to three ounces, repeated every five hours, given in eight ounces cold water.

Aloes (Barbadoes).—Useful as a cathartic. Dose, six to eight drachms, with two drachms powdered ginger, made into a bolus or pill; only one dose required.

Ammonia (Aqua).—Useful as a stimulant. Dose, one half ounce, given three times a day in six ounces cold water.

Ammonia (Aromatic).—Useful in acute indigestion and flatulant colic. Dose, one ounce every two hours until better.

Arnica (Tincture).—Useful in all cases of bruises and sprains; should be applied frequently.

Arsenic.—Useful as a tonic or alterative. Dose, five grains given three times a day in the food.

Belladonna (Tincture).—Useful in allaying pains and spasms. Dose, one to two drachms, repeated every four hours.

Bromide of Potassium.—Useful as a nerve sedative. Dose, two to four drachms three times a day, given in water.

Castor Oil.—Useful as a cathartic. Dose, one pint.

Chloral Hydrate—Useful in allaying pain. Dose, one-half ounce every four hours until relief comes.

Chloroform.—Useful as an anÆsthetic and anodyne in allaying pain. Dose, one to three drachms given in four ounces cold water.

Digitalis (Tincture).—Useful as a heart stimulant. Also for coughs and colds. Dose, one drachm three times a day.

Dovers Powders.—Useful for colds and coughs. Dose, three drachms three times a day in feed.

Gentian.—Useful as a tonic. Dose of tincture, one ounce; of ground, one half ounce—in feed three times a day.

Ginger.—Useful as a tonic and stimulant. Dose, tincture, one ounce; ground, one ounce—in feed three times a day.

Iodine (Tincture).—Useful when applied externally for sprains, bruises, etc.

Iodoform.—Useful when applied to galls. Take one part iodoform and three parts sulphur and cover the gall with the powder. Iodoform one part, cosmoline nine parts, makes a good antiseptic ointment.

Iron (Sulphate).—Useful for worms and as a tonic. Dose, one half ounce three times a day.

Iron (Tincture).—Checks bleeding, when applied externally; is a tonic internally. Dose, one half ounce in water three times a day.

Laudanum.—Useful in allaying pain. Dose, one to two ounces, to be repeated every two hours if pain lasts.

Lead (Acetate, Sugar of Lead).—Useful for wounds, bruises, sprains, and to allay inflammation. One ounce to one quart of water, and apply often.

Linseed-oil.—Purgative. Dose, ten to thirty ounces.

Nitre (Saltpetre, Nitrate Potash).—Is useful in fevers, blood disorders, and sluggish kidneys. Dose, one half to one ounce a day.

Podophyllin.—Useful in liver disorders. Dose, one to two drachms once a day.

Quinine.—Useful in all debilitating fevers and where there is loss of appetite. Dose, twenty to thirty grains five times a day in pills.

Resin.—Useful in kidney disorders. Dose, one half ounce three times a day in feed.

Soda (Bicarbonate).—Useful in cases where an antacid is required. Dose, six drachms three times a day in feed.

Soda Sulphate (Glauber Salts).—Useful where a saline laxative is required. Dose, one pound.

Santonine.—Useful for worms. Dose, two to four drachms.

Sweet Spirits Nitre.—Useful for colic and kidney trouble. Dose, one to two ounces in cold water, to be repeated if necessary.

Zinc (Sulphate).—Useful for wounds. Add one quart water to one ounce zinc and apply three times a day.

Bran Mash.—Place bran in clean pail and pour on as much boiling water as it will absorb; add ½ ounce salt; stir and then cover over to retain steam until sufficiently cool; add, if on hand, to the bran a pound of well-boiled linseed.

Gruel.—Put 1 pound of meal in cold water, place over fire, and stir until it boils; then simmer until thick; permit to cool until temperature of new milk; add wineglass of spirits if animal be exhausted.

Poultice.—Bran, with a little linseed-oil, steeped in hot water; boiled turnips or carrots; linseed-meal and a little olive-oil.

Charcoal Poultice is made by adding linseed-meal to boiling water and stirring until a soft mass is produced; then stir in powdered charcoal and sprinkle some over the poultice when made up. If desired as an astringent, add sulphate of zinc.

Mustard.—Add water to 1 pound of mustard until a thick paste; rub on skin and then wash off carefully after 15 or 20 minutes. Apply again in six hours if necessary.

Enemas.—Usually water at the temperature of the body, 3 to 6 quarts. Sometimes a little soap is added.

Cantharides.—If effect of blister be too severe, diminish by dressing part with liniment of lead, acetate of lead, and olive-oil; or wash off blister and dress with oil.

Gombault's Caustic Balsam is a most excellent vesicant.

Tonics should be given under observation of surgeon and effect carefully watched, especially mineral tonics.

Mineral Tonics.—Sulphate of iron, 1 to 2 drachms, with 2 to 4 drachms of ginger; or sulphate of copper, ½ to 1 drachm, with powdered gentian 2 to 4 drachms; or arsenious acid, 5 grains.

Vegetable Tonics.—Quinine, ½ to 1 drachm, dissolved in a few drops of sulphuric acid, in a pint of water; or oak-bark, 2 to 3 drachms made into a ball with treacle and bran; or powdered gentian-root, 1 to 2 drachms; or tincture of gentian, 1 to 2 ounces in a pint of water.

SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT OF VARIOUS DISEASES.

ABSCESS.

Symptoms.—The result of a bruise or blood impurities; is attended by pain, heat, and swelling, with in time a soft or fluctuating part on its surface from which the hair falls off.

Treatment.—Open with a knife at the soft point and free of matter; then hot fomentations or poultices are sometimes required; apply twice a day carbolic acid, 1 part; water, 20 parts.

BLADDER IRRITATION.

Symptoms.—Restlessness; frequent straining; protruding penis; passing small quantities of urine at short intervals.

Treatment.—Rest; plenty of water and mucilaginous fluids, with ½ ounce bicarbonate of soda or potash; warm rugs over loins; a pint of linseed-oil if laxative is required.

BLADDER INFLAMMATION.

Symptoms.—Similar to bladder irritation, but more aggravated; considerable fever, indicated by quick pulse; high temperature; arching of back; whisking tail; frequent straining; passing a few drops of urine at short intervals, generally thickly colored, with ropy mucus and pus, and sometimes blood.

Treatment.—If bladder be distended, use gentle manipulation and pressure per rectum. This failing, use catheter. Apply hot blanket to the loins, and when removed rub that part with embrocation of oil, 6 ounces; strong solution of ammonia, 1 ounce; and tincture of opium, 2 ounces. Give mucilaginous drinks, such as linseed-tea, hay-tea, etc., and cooling, laxative food. After relieving congestion give ½ ounce bicarbonate of soda two or three times a day in the drink.

BOWELS, INFLAMMATION OF (ENTERITIS).

Symptoms.—Similar to those of colic, only there is more distress, and the pain is continuous, and not in paroxysms, as is the case in colic; the body is covered with perspiration; pulse quick and small; extremities cold instead of warm, as in colic.

Treatment.—Powdered opium, 2 drachms in watery solution; belladonna, 2 drachms; linseed-oil, 1 pint. Following this give 10 drops tincture of aconite and ½ drachm powdered opium in watery solution every two hours. Frequent enemas of tepid water; mustard or very hot water to abdomen; hand-rub and bandage legs; clothe warmly. Bran mashes and bran gruel for a short time after recovery. Exercise great care and give simple diet for some days.

BRONCHITIS, INFLAMMATION OF THE TUBES OF THE LUNGS.

Symptoms.—The first day quick breathing, with whistling sound on listening at side of chest, or a deeper and more noisy sound at front of chest; pulse harder and quicker than normal; breathing quickened; nostril red and inflamed. About second day increased secretion of mucus and suppressed cough; pulse decreased in volume and more rapid; breathing hurried; dilated nostril; heaving flank.

Treatment.—Place animal in airy box and clothe warmly; bandage legs; bran mash. If legs be unequal in warmth and coat inclined to stare, give, night and morning, 1 ounce spirits nitric ether, 4 ounces acetate of ammonia, 8 ounces water.

If disease unmistakably sets in, give 1 drachm carbonate of ammonia, or ½ ounce sweet spirits of nitre, or sulphuric ether, every 4 to 6 hours. If inclined to drink, ½ ounce nitre dissolved in each half pail of water until the kidneys act freely. Have animal inhale steam from bucketful of boiling water and tablespoonful of oil of turpentine poured over hay. If constipated, 2 ounces Epsom salts, 1 ounce nitrate of potassa, until slight effect is produced. Foment chest with blanket wrung out of hot water, and also sides. After each application slightly stimulate by rubbing with weak ammonia liniment (1 part liquid ammonia sesquicarbonate to 3 parts olive-oil.)

BURNS.

Treatment.—Cover with cosmoline, 10 parts, carbolic acid, 1 part, or with rags soaked in olive-oil to which a little sugar of lead has been added; or dust thickly with starch or flour and cover with cotton-wool; or liniment of equal parts of limewater and linseed-oil (carron-oil).

COLIC, SPASMODIC.

Symptoms.—The attack usually comes on suddenly; the horse paws, kicks his belly, looks at his flanks, moves about uneasily, throws himself down violently and groans, rolls, lies on his back, jumps up and oftentimes commences eating. The extremities continue warm, and between the paroxysms the pulse is normal.

Treatment.—1 ounce chloral hydrate in ½ pint of water—repeat in an hour if necessary; or 1 ounce tincture of opium and 1 ounce sweet spirits of nitre in ½ pint of cold water, repeated every half-hour until well; or 1½ ounces opium and 2 ounces alcohol in ½ pint water—repeat in one hour if necessary.

Administer enema of warm water in which a little soap is dissolved. Should constipation be the cause, give aloes in solution, 5 to 8 drachms, or 1 pint of linseed-oil. Apply hot blanket to abdomen. Have animal walked about or belly well hand-rubbed, and give ½ pint of whiskey, or brandy, or any stimulant in pint of water if drugs be not at hand.

In Flatulent Colic, when the bowels are distended by gas, detected by bloated appearance and resonance on percussion, give promptly baking-soda, 2 to 4 ounces; if this fails, give carbonate of ammonia in ½-ounce doses every half-hour, or chloral hydrate, 1 ounce in ½ pint of water.

Physic with 5 to 8 drachms Barbadoes aloes or 1 pint linseed-oil. Frequent enemas of turpentine, 1 to 2 ounces, and linseed-oil, 8 ounces. Apply hot blankets.

CONSTIPATION.

Symptoms.—Uneasiness; distended abdomen; pulse and respiration nearly normal.

Treatment.—Copious enemas of tepid water and a little soap. Dose of linseed-oil, 1½ pints. Sloppy food; slow exercise.

CORNS.

Symptoms.—These bruises of the foot or heel are commonly caused by improper shoeing, or leaving shoes on too long until they become imbedded. They are usually on fore feet, in that part of the sole included in the angle between the bar and the outside wall of the hoof.

Treatment.—If lame and when the spot is pared there be matter, foment and poultice until lameness has disappeared. Then shoe with bar-shoe resting on frog, the spot being relieved by cutting away horn.

CRACKED HEELS (SCRATCHES).

Symptoms.—This is an inflammation of the oil-and sweat-glands of the skin, due to exposure, irritants, mud, filth, cold, washing heels with inferior soaps, cold draughts on heels, standing in slush or snow.

Treatment.—Remove hair; poultice with warm bran and charcoal, and keep clean; apply ointment—acetate of lead 1 part, lard 3 parts. If sores be deep and painful, put on shoes with high heels. Feed cooling, laxative food.

CURB.

Symptoms.—Sprain of the superior straight ligament at the back of the hock-joint. It looks like a swollen knot a few inches below the hock.

Treatment.—Reduce inflammation by hot fomentations, and after it has subsided apply biniodide ointment (biniodide of mercury 1 part, lard 12 parts), or a liniment composed of 2 parts of soap liniment and 1 of tincture of iodine. If there be much thickening, blister.

DISTEMPER.

Symptoms.—See Strangles.

FARCY.

Farcy of a specific nature is identical with glanders, and is incurable.

FISTULA.

Symptoms.—Fistula of withers is ordinarily due to badly fitting collars or saddles, or to bruises.

Treatment.—If very slight, remove all pressure at that point (rest if possible), and bathe with salt water or muriate of ammonia frequently. If more advanced, use hot fomentations. If matter forms, make free opening for its escape at lowest point. Treat with solution of sulphate of zinc. When the sore becomes healthy, and the core removed, use carbolic dressing and keep clean. Should it break out again, inject the abscess with a solution of sulphate of zinc 20 grains to the ounce of water every second or third day until entirely healed.

FOOT INFLAMMATION.

Symptoms.—Brought on by founder, hard driving, lack of moisture to hoofs, indigestion and fevers, punctures, bruises, etc. Manifested by increased temperature of foot, pain on moderate percussion with hammer around the wall of hoof towards clenches and heel (the opposite foot being held up), and firm pressure by pincers around margin of hoof after removal of shoe.

Treatment.—After locating the injury remove surrounding horn freely to prevent formation of, or to give vent to, any matter. Place foot in hot water for one hour, and then poultice. Dress with tar and tow.

FOUNDER.

Symptoms.—Laminitis, or acute founder, consists of inflammation of the laminÆ by which the hoof is attached to the sensitive foot, caused by hard driving, leaving heated horse to stand in snow, standing in cold draughts, too much grain and cold water afterwards.

The animal evinces much distress and can scarcely be made to move, and when compelled to stir does so with great difficulty and pain, putting heels of fore feet to the ground and bringing hind feet forward under body. The feet are very hot and intensely painful, and the slightest percussion causes great agony. In standing the fore feet are advanced if they are affected (most frequently the case). If they are drawn under the body, the trouble is in the hind feet.

Treatment.—Give 1 pint of linseed-oil; remove shoes, then stand in cold water or wet clay most of the time for two or three days, and make cold applications to legs. Poultice if necessary. Then compel animal to take exercise on soft, damp ground, at first slowly and for short distances. If tenderness remains after inflammation has passed, blister around coronet, and continue exercise on damp ground. Blister may be repeated every nine days if necessary.

Be careful to apply blister (cantharides 1 part, olive-oil 6 or 8 parts) only on protuberant band which extends for a finger's breadth above the hoof, and not on pasterns.

Feed bran mashes and grass. Place bucket of water containing ½ ounce nitre near by if animal be feverish, so that he may drink.

GALLS (see SORES).

Treatment.—Remove the cause and bathe the spot with Castile soap and cold water as often as possible. If this does not succeed, a root will appear at the centre of the gall, the edges of which will be clear, the sitfast holding only by the root. Pull it out with pincers; bathe frequently with cold water. A little oil or grease, free from salt, or carbolic acid 1 part, glycerine 15 parts, may be rubbed lightly on the parts as they begin to heal.

When the sore becomes healthy, cleanse thoroughly and apply 1 part iodoform, 3 parts sulphur. If necessary to use the animal, cover with old-fashioned sticking-plaster, after putting on the powder just indicated. If possible, the collar or saddle should not bear on the spot.

GLANDERS.

Before a horse is destroyed for either glanders or farcy he should, as soon as suspected, be separated from all the other animals, and every precaution taken to prevent the spread of the disease. When the disease is definitely determined, destroy the animal at once, burn all articles of clothing, brushes, brooms, etc., and have other articles, equipments, stalls, etc., thoroughly disinfected.

Bear in mind that this terrible disease is highly contagious, and easily communicated to man.

Symptoms.—The three characteristic signs are:

1st. A peculiar transparent, glutinous, and continuous discharge, usually from one nostril, which accumulates and entangles all kinds of filth. This discharge is at first thin and aqueous, but soon assumes the characteristic glary condition, and is generally of a straw-color, but in very late stages becomes more purulent.

2d. Ulceration of the mucous membranes of the nostrils. Before ulceration takes place in the nostrils the membrane of the part usually assumes a dingy leaden or slate color, often in patches, and the other parts highly injected.

The ultimate symptom, leaving no doubt of the character of the disease, is the formation of true ulcers in the nostrils.

The ulceration usually commences with a small vesicle on the membrane, which after a few days bursts, leaving a small unhealthy ulcer, which has no disposition to heal, but, on the contrary, gradually spreads and deepens. The nostril first affected by discharge is generally first affected by ulceration.

After the formation of ulcers the discharge is often tinged with blood, and becomes offensive.

3d. The submaxillary gland, in the channel formed between the lower jaw-bones, becomes swollen and painful, but, as a rule, shows no inclination to suppurate. It soon becomes hard and firmly attached to the jawbone, and ceases to be painful on the application of pressure.

On any one of the above-enumerated symptoms appearing, at once isolate the animal; have bedding destroyed, and carefully remove all clothing, stable utensils, etc., from the vicinity of other horses. Place a steady man in charge, and warn him of his personal danger.

GREASE.

Symptoms.—A diseased state of the skin of the legs, more especially the hind ones, caused by uncleanliness or washing with cold water and not properly drying them afterwards. In the early stages it consists of intolerable itching, followed by an inflammation of the sweat-glands, and an offensive oily discharge. The heels feel hot and greasy.

Treatment.—Trim hair; poultice with warm bran and charcoal for several days, changing twice a day, and cleaning with sponge and tepid water each time; or apply a flaxseed poultice over which has been poured some lotion consisting of sugar of lead ½ oz., carbolic acid 1 drachm, water 1 quart. Then, if animal is not weak, give a dose of purgative medicine, and when it has acted apply to the heels a dressing of vaseline 1 oz., oxide of zinc 2 drachms, iodized phenol 20 drops; or equal parts of sulphate of zinc and sugar of lead in water; or carbolic acid 1 part, glycerine 20 parts, applied with a brush and covered with lint and bandage, is good after poulticing. When the frog is affected, pare to the quick and dress with dry caustic powders (quicklime, copperas, bluestone) or carbolic acid, and put on tight bandage, the dressing being renewed every day at least. When there is any tendency to inflammation or ulceration of skin of heels in bad weather, dress with lard or tallow, or lard 8 parts and alum 1 part.

HIDE-BOUND.

Symptoms.—The hide becomes tightly drawn over the flesh, and the coat hard and staring.

Treatment.—Aloes 1½ oz., sulphur 3½ oz., ginger ½ oz., linseed-meal ½ oz. Make into six balls, and give one night and morning.

HOOF-BOUND.

Symptoms.—This is the result of some preceding disease of the foot, giving rise to an atrophy of the flesh structures of the foot, allowing the wall to fall in and become contracted.

Treatment.—Stand in moist place; apply blistering liquid (powdered cantharides 1 part, olive-oil 6 to 8 parts) to coronet.

HOCK-LAMENESS.

This applies to a variety of diseases, such as bog-and blood-spavin, bone-spavin, curb, sprained ligaments, etc., all of which give rise to lameness.

Treatment.—Rest; hot fomentations to allay inflammation; hand-rubbing and blistering are used according to circumstances.

INFLUENZA.

Symptoms.—This specific epizoÖtic fever of a low type, associated with inflammation of the respiratory mucous membrane, begins very suddenly with marked fever; great dulness and extreme weakness; headache; limbs stiff and weak; pulse quickened; eyelids swollen and tearful, and, if inverted, appear pink or dark red; disinclination to move; legs swollen; short, painful cough, betraying soreness of throat; difficulty in swallowing; hurried breathing (if breathing hurried and nostrils dilated, inflammation of lungs is to be apprehended); sometimes discharge from nostrils, as in catarrh, or there may be only a thin, yellowish, transparent fluid from the nostrils. If bowels are involved, the horse exhibits symptoms of abdominal pain. If liver is also involved, the lining membrane of the eyelid will be a yellowish-red hue. Constipation or diarrhoea almost invariably present.

Treatment.—Isolate; rest; nurse carefully. Box stall where the temperature should be about 60°; clothe, hand-rub and bandage legs so as to maintain normal temperature. Rub throat and well towards ears with liniment made of soap liniment 2 oz., compound camphor liniment 2 oz., and tincture of opium ½ oz.

(Soap liniment is composed of soft-soap 4 oz., camphor 1 oz., proof spirits 2 pints, solution of ammonia ½ pint. Compound-camphor liniment is composed of camphor 1 oz., olive-oil 2 oz.)

If cough is severe, steam nostrils with bucket of boiling water and tablespoonful of turpentine poured over hay. Should there be constipation without symptoms of bowel complications, give injection of soap-suds and mild dose of Epsom salts, but not otherwise. If diarrhoea be present, do not check unless it increases the debility, and then give starch or flour gruel with an ounce or two of prepared chalk.

If abdominal pain be great, apply hot blankets; same to chest if involved. Quinine in 20-grain doses four or five times a day.

Give saline agents, such as 1½ oz. sulphate of magnesia; or 1 oz. hyposulphate of soda; or 4 oz. acetate of ammonia with 1 oz. nitric ether, once or twice a day.

Gruel of bran or oatmeal with a little nitre therein, or cold water with nitre for drink. Bran mash and scalded oats for food.

LAMENESS.

Lameness, when in the foot, is indicated by the animal pointing; in the shoulder by the animal dragging or swinging the limb in a rotary manner.

In the majority of cases it is below the knee when in the fore leg, and in the hock-joint when in the hind leg.

Examine carefully, and have the animal trotted slowly both towards and from you. If the lameness be in front the animal drops on the well quarter, and throws his head up when the unsound leg is placed on the ground. If lame behind he hitches up the lame quarter, and nods the head when the sound leg is placed on the ground. Then determine location. If in foot, the lameness is more apparent on hard than on soft ground. If lame elsewhere, it will be as apparent, and probably more apparent, on soft as on hard ground (except in splint and other exostoses), and is usually some sprain of a ligament between knee and fetlock in fore leg, and in hock of hind leg. (See Corns; Cracked Heels; Curb; Foot Inflammation; Founder; Grease; Hock Lameness; Hoof-bound.)

LAMPAS.

Symptoms.—Swollen condition of roof of mouth caused by cold, indigestion, or growing teeth.

Treatment.—Laxative food, and even a mild dose of laxative medicine if required. Rub mouth with salt or a little alum and water.

LARYNGITIS (INFLAMMATION OF THE THROAT).

Symptoms.—Sore throat consists of inflammation of head of windpipe, indicated by cough and difficulty in swallowing; hot and tender in region of gullet; the least pressure may produce paroxysms of coughing; pulse quick, respiration somewhat hurried.

Treatment.—Place in box stall where atmosphere is warm and moist; avoid cold air; hot-water fomentations, and rub throat with ammonia liniment (1 part liquid ammonia, 1 part cantharides, 2 parts olive oil;) soft laxative food or grass, no hay; sponge throat with solution of nitrate of silver 10 grains to 1 oz. of water; steam nostrils every 15 minutes with bucket of boiling water and tablespoonful of turpentine poured over hay. No laxative medicine if avoidable. Use enemas, and if necessary give 2 oz. Epsom salts in a pint of water with two drams of ginger night and morning for several days.

Keep temperature of body normal by clothing, and give febrifuges in the form of small doses of ½ dram belladonna and 1 oz. nitre made into a soft ball or dissolved in water.

MANGE.

Symptoms.—An eruptive disease, very contagious; usually most severe in winter; ordinarily induced by inattention to cleanliness or contagion. Indicated by itching, hair falling off, skin becoming dry, wrinkled, and scaly, with raw spots and cracks over the body.

Treatment.—If coat be long it may be necessary to clip it. Wash well with warm water and soap; apply paraffine oil daily and allow to dry; or sulphur and linseed oil well rubbed in; or oil of tar and sulphur 2 oz. each, and linseed oil 1 pint. After treating a few days, use sal soda ¼ lb. to one gallon of hot water to wash off body and clean skin.

NAVICULAR DISEASE.

Symptoms.—Consists of sprain of the flexor tendon, or its sheath, as it passes over navicular bone, giving rise to inflammation of the joint.

If foot-lameness exists without apparent cause, animal points fore foot without resting hind quarters, wears away toe, goes up hill sounder than he goes down, feet, as a rule, contracted and hotter than usual, we may suspect navicular disease.

Treatment.—Rest; allow frog to bear on ground; cold poultices, or stand in cold water or on clay tempered with salt and water; laxative food. In a week blister around coronet and in hollow of heel.

This disease can only be alleviated, not cured.

OPHTHALMIA (SORE EYES).

Symptoms.—May arise from undue exposure to sun, cold, wind, dust, etc. Foreign substances usually lodge under the upper eyelid. The eyelids are swollen, tears running down face, with intolerance of light.

Treatment.—Bathe with warm water; dress daily with tincture of opium 2 drams, sulphate of zinc 4 grs., or alum 6 grs. and water 1 oz., and shade eyes with wide bandage suspended from brow-band. Keep in dark stable and avoid using in bright sunlight.

If feverish, give bran mashes. Bathe with cold water if unable to obtain warm.

PARALYSIS OF HIND QUARTERS.

Symptoms.—Partial or complete loss of voluntary motion of the parts, usually brought on by high feeding and no exercise.

Treatment.—1 dram powdered nux vomica twice a day; good nursing; easily digested food; dose of Glauber salts.

PHARYNGITIS (SORE THROAT).

Treatment.—Rub the throat with turpentine liniment (equal parts of turpentine and olive oil).

PLEURISY.

Symptoms.—One side of chest generally affected, especially at first. When independent of pneumonia it generally begins suddenly with shivering; breathing quick and shallow; nostrils dilated; respiration short and quick; regular elevated line or ridge along the lower border of the ribs from the point of the hip to the lower part of the sternum; fever; short, dry, painful cough; sighing grunt occasionally or when turned around; in early stages if ear be applied to chest a sound like rubbing dry hands together will be heard; pulse hard and wiry, at first about 60, runs to 80, and in bad cases to 100 and over, but not so full and oppressed as in pneumonia; restless and looks at side with anxious eye of pain; paws the ground; does not lie down, but attempts to do so; temperature of extremities irregular. Portions may be cold, others hot. In the second stage the friction sound in chest disappears; cough loose and moist; extremities for a time warm; pulse less frequent, smaller, and weaker; breathing less labored; membrane of nostril loses redness.

Treatment.—Roomy stable free from draughts; foment with blankets steeped in hot water and wrung out, as in pneumonia; continue this for some time, and when discontinued rub dry, and after four or five days, when acute stage has somewhat subsided, apply to sides liniment composed of olive oil 2 oz., tinct. cantharides 1 oz., solution of ammonia 1 oz., on alternate days. This liniment is not applied until the pain manifested by restlessness has subsided; clothe body. If legs be cold, hand-rub and flannel bandage. From the beginning give the following drench every six hours: solution of acetate of ammonia 3 oz., spirits of nitrous ether 1 oz., bicarbonate of potassium 3 drams, water 1 pint. In the beginning of the attack, if pain so severe as to cause animal to lie down or paw, give tincture of opium 2 oz.; raw linseed oil 12 oz.; laxative food; 2 oz. sulphate of soda or 1 oz. nitrate of potassa in a bucket of water to drink, and renew as often as necessary; if constipated, 2 oz. Epsom salts dissolved in water with ½ oz. nitrate of potassa twice a day; or enemas of warm water may be all that is necessary.

The treatment during fever and if debilitated is as for pneumonia; in fact the general treatment is the same, except the time of applying liniment.

PNEUMONIA.

Symptoms.—Usually begins with sudden shivering, followed by coldness of ears and extremities; other signs of inflammation; staring coat. The coldness of extremities is a marked sign throughout the disease. Animal uneasy; turns head frequently to chest; pulse oppressed and quick, generally about 60 at commencement, becomes quicker, and may run to 100, gradually becoming smaller in volume; temperature rises rapidly, frequently to 104° or 105° F.; cough may or may not be present. In early stages nasal linings paler than usual, but become purplish and then of leaden hue; respiration disturbed at once; animal persistently stands with fore legs wide apart and elbows out; never lies down except for a moment at a time, or in extremis; head inclined downwards, nose protruded, nostrils dilated.

In early stages a confused humming noise accompanied by a harsh, dry murmur is heard when ear is applied to chest; as the inflammation progresses the dry murmur gives way to a moist rattle.

Treatment.—Box stall free from draughts; plenty of fresh air; blanket body; rub and bandage legs twice a day; plenty of drinking-water near at all times; rub affected side with liniment (2 oz. olive oil, 1 oz. tincture of cantharides, 1 oz. solution of ammonia), and repeat in four or five days. If weather not too cold and great care can be taken, first apply closely to chest, every half hour for four or five hours, a blanket wrung out of hot water, and wrap a dry one over it; afterwards rub on the above liniment, and cover closely with a blanket. Do not use mustard. No purgatives, but give laxative diet, scalded oats, bran, and linseed mashes. If necessary, give enemas of warm water three or four times a day.

Every six hours give solution of acetate of ammonia 3 oz., spirits of nitrous ether 1 oz., bicarbonate of potassium 3 drams, water 1 pint. If this cannot be done, put 3 drams bi-carbonate of potassium into every bucketful of water he will drink.

Give every three hours during fever 1 dram quinine in capsule, or mixed with a little linseed meal and molasses.

If much debilitated, 6 oz. whiskey in 1 pint of water every four or five hours.

PURGING.

In cases of excessive purging, either from disease or an overdose of medicine, use extract of catechu 1 dram, cinnamon 1 dram, powdered opium ½ dram. This may be repeated two or three times a day, thick wheaten gruel being given at the same time.

PUNCTURES FROM SHOEING.

Symptoms.—If inflammation be present, the foot will be very hot, and when standing still the animal continually rests it or moves it about uneasily and is afraid to put his weight on it. If tapped with a hammer on the spot, or if the sole and wall at the part be pressed by pincers, suffering is manifested.

Treatment.—Remove shoe; pare sole over injury until quite thin; make opening between sole and wall with a small drawing-knife across the track of the nail to relieve pressure and form an exit for matter; then put foot in bucket of hot water for an hour or so, and afterwards hot poultice. When lameness has disappeared, reshoe, leaving out nail at injured point and filling up the cavity with tar and tow.

QUITTOR.

Symptoms.—In all cases in which matter forms in the foot, whether from pricks, corns, or bruises, unless it has free opening to escape by it acts as an irritant, extending in every direction in sinuses, and finally works its way to the coronet, where it bursts and forms a fistulous sore.

Treatment.—Foment; apply poultice; when abscess opens, keep washed with carbolic acid. Keep open until internal disease is thoroughly eradicated; then keep clean with cold water and dress with sulphate of copper, iron, or zinc, 5 grains of either to 1 oz. of water; or carbolic acid 20 drops in glycerine 20 drops, and added to 1 oz. of water. For treads or wounds on coronet between hair and hoof, and when the sore has become healthy in case of quittor, a good treatment is common turpentine and hog's lard, equal parts melted together. Spread on tow and bind on wound with bandage.

RINGWORM.

Symptoms.—This contagious disease is due to the presence of a parasite in the skin, and is manifested by the hair falling out in circular patches.

Treatment.—Dress patches with blistering ointment (powdered cantharides 1 part, lard 6 parts), or with tar dressing as for mange.

RHEUMATISM.

A peculiar form of inflammation attacking the fibrous structures of the body.

Treatment.—Laxative food; 6 drachms of aloes, 1 drachm of calomel, as a cathartic; 1 oz. bicarbonate of soda, followed daily by a dose half that amount with ½ oz. nitrate of potash; if these fail, give 2 drachms of iodide of potassium in addition. Foment with hot water to which poppy-heads have been added, dry thoroughly, and apply flannel bandages. Clothe warmly. Keep quiet.

SAND-CRACK.

Symptoms.—A split in the wall of the hoof commencing on top near the coronet and extending downward.

Treatment.—Apply bar-shoe and use hoof ointment (tar and lard, equal parts, melted together). If the animal be lame, remove shoe and immerse the foot in a bucket of hot water for an hour or two, and then poultice.

SCURVY.

Symptoms.—Eruptions and itching, often in the bend of the knee, the hock, or mane and tail.

Treatment.—Apply ointment (iodide of sulphur 1 drachm, glycerine 6 oz.); give carbonate of soda 1 oz. twice a day; ½ oz. Fowler's solution of arsenic twice a day. Mild laxative food.

SORES.

Symptoms.—Sores on back, withers, or shoulders are ordinarily due to recent swellings from blows or injuries of some kind.

Treatment.—Sulphate of zinc 4 drachms, cold water 1 quart; apply by washing or with wetted bandages. Or first cleanse a healthy sore with soap and water, then apply sulphur 3 parts, iodoform 1 part.

SPRAINS.

Sprains consist in an overstretching of a muscle, tendon, or ligament to such a degree as to rupture some of the fibres of which it is composed. They are divided into muscular sprains, tendonous sprains, and ligamentous sprains.

Muscular sprains usually occur in the powerful muscles of the loins and quarters; they are serious and often permanent injuries.

Tendonous sprains are the most common, and the flexor tendons of the fore legs are most frequently affected.

Ligamentous sprains are serious injuries, and may occur in any of the numerous ligaments belonging to the joints of the body. The principles of treatment are the same as for tendons.

Symptoms.—Sprains of tendons and ligaments are manifested by heat, swelling, pain on manipulation, and lameness.

Treatment.—First reduce the inflammation by rest and constant use of hot fomentations. If the sprain be severe and at the rear part of the fore or hind leg, raise the heel of the shoe on the affected leg an inch or more.

All traces of the inflammation having disappeared, apply cold water and linen bandages, and give a little slow exercise. Should the swelling show no signs of subsiding, or the lameness continue after long and careful treatment, firing may be considered, but should only be undertaken by a skilful surgeon. The diet should be laxative.

SPRAINS OF BACK AND LOINS.

Treatment.—Rest; keep bowels open with warm bran mashes and a dose of Glauber salts (½ to 1 lb. sulphate of soda); also 1 drachm acetate of potassa twice a day for ten days. Treat externally with hot fomentations, or blister if necessary.

STRANGLES.

Symptoms.—Sick and off feed, with possibly slight catarrh and feverish symptoms; abscess forms between bones of lower jaw or elsewhere in the group of lymphatic glands; sore throat; difficulty in swallowing; slobbers; unthriftiness; staring coat; loss of condition; dulness and languor.

Treatment.—Place in cool box with plenty of fresh air; support strength by nutritious food; all kinds of soft and macerated food are good; if constipated, give laxative food and enemas, but no strong purgative must be used; if necessary, ½ pint of linseed-oil, repeated in 24 hours if required. Tonics, such as 20 grains of quinine, or 1 oz. ground gentian, or 1 teaspoonful sulphate of iron, three times a day.

Bring swelling to a head by a poultice of flaxseed, carrots, or turnips. If suffocation be threatened, a tube must be placed in the windpipe. This should be done by a skilful surgeon.

SUNSTROKE.

Symptoms.—Manifested suddenly. Animal stops, drops his head, begins to stagger, and soon falls to the ground unconscious. The breathing is with great stertor, pulse very slow and irregular, cold sweats in patches.

In heat exhaustion the animal usually requires urging for some time previous to the appearance of any other symptoms; generally perspiration is checked, and then he becomes weak in his gait; breathing hurried or panting; eyes watery and bloodshot; nostrils dilated and highly reddened, assuming a dark purple color; the pulse is rapid and weak, the heart bounding, followed by unconsciousness and death.

Treatment.—Blood-letting is forbidden. Apply ice or very cold water to the head and along the spine for sunstroke, but in case of heat exhaustion apply cloths wrung out of hot water.

The following applies to both cases: Give ½ oz. carbonate of ammonia or 6 oz. of whiskey in a pint of water; injections per rectum, of moderately strong ginger-tea or weak ammonia-water; brisk friction of the limbs and the application of spirits of camphor. Repeat stimulants in an hour if pulse has not become stronger and slower. When reaction has occurred and during convalescence, tonics may be given: sulphate of iron 1 drachm, gentian 3 drachms, red cinchona-bark 2 drachms; mix and give in the feed night and morning.

SWEENY.

Symptoms.—Consists of a sprain of the muscles covering the outer surface of the shoulder-blade, in consequence of which they become wasted, leaving their place hollow.

Treatment.—Feed muscle-making food and give moderate exercise. Apply from time to time a mild blister (powdered cantharides 1 part, olive-oil 12 parts.)

SWELLED LEGS.

Swelled legs are more often due to general debility than to any other cause, though it may arise from lack of exercise, wet or filth, or neglected cases of grease or scratches.

Treatment.—Hand-rub; bandage the legs; warm clothing; gentle exercise; generous diet if the animal be poor; mild dose of physic in some cases (½ pint of linseed-oil). Vegetable and mineral tonics are useful in some cases.

THRUSH.

Symptoms.—Arises from neglect and want of use. Manifests itself under the form of an acrid, strong-smelling, unhealthy secretion issuing from the sensitive frog through the cleft of the insensitive frog; most common in hind foot.

Treatment.—Cleanse and keep clean both feet and where the animal stands. After cleansing foot gently thrust to the bottom of the cleft a piece of fine tow saturated with 1 part carbolic acid, 20 parts water, and then cover with dry tow. Repeat night and morning for a few days and then dress with calomel and dry tow. Keep frog free from dirt and moisture.

URINE, RETENTION OF.

Symptoms.—Uneasiness, distress, anxiety of countenance; if relief is not soon obtained, pulse becomes quick and hard, and ultimately imperceptible; stretching out in endeavor to void urine; lies down and rises up frequently; clammy sweats.

Treatment.—Place fresh straw under animal; pouring water may produce sympathetic action; steady pressure of the hand, passed through the anus, on the fundus of the bladder may accomplish result; rub belly, or wash out sheath thoroughly if caused by dirt; 2 ounces sweet spirits of nitre in pint of water, or 1 pint linseed-oil and afterwards opium 1½ drachms, camphor 2½ drachms; repeat in 1 or 2 hours if necessary. If necessary to pass a catheter, the hand well oiled is passed up the sheath, the penis grasped and gently brought forward and held by an assistant; the catheter, well oiled, is then introduced and carefully pushed forward, and when it reaches the perinÆum it should be guided forward and upwards by gentle pressure of the fingers.

URINE, NON-RETENTION OF.

Symptoms.—Besides excessive staling there is extreme thirst, dry skin, rough, staring coat, digestion usually out of order.

Treatment.—Change diet; give 1 drachm iodide of potassium in 10 oz. water daily between meals.

WARBLES.

Symptoms.—Recent soft swellings or tumors arising from inflammation of the skin due to friction or undue pressure.

Treatment.—Remove cause by not permitting the saddle or collar to touch it, and treat with salt water. Try to disperse, but if necessary to open it do so fully and touch with caustic. Then use cold-water dressings.

WARTS.

Treatment.—When small, remove by scraping surface and dressing with chloride of zinc; if large, remove with knife, and if necessary touch with hot iron. If without appreciable base, apply a paste of sulphur and sulphuric acid until it sloughs and then dress as an ordinary wound.

WORMS.

Treatment.—2 oz. turpentine in a pint of linseed-oil. The most effectual treatment is to administer daily for ten days or two weeks 2 drachms sulphate of iron and then give a dose of physic; change diet; tonic.

WOUNDS.

Simple wounds demand little attention other than cleanliness.

First.—Suppress hemorrhage by cold applications with pressure. If the bleeding be profuse, continuous, and of a bright red color, apply pressure to trunk of artery higher up leg (if leg is injured) than the wound, i.e., apply between wound and heart. Tie a flat web, cord, or handkerchief loosely around the leg, lay a pad formed of another handkerchief immediately above the artery, pass a stick through the loop on opposite side of leg to pad and turn it around so as to twist loop tightly. A plug of cotton, tow, sponge, or rag made into conical shape with point of cone toward bleeding orifice is also useful; remove clots of blood, apply plug and retain it by rags, tow, etc. In large, gaping wounds the finger or even the closed fist may be effectually employed until assistance arrives.

Cold water, ice, tar, perchloride of iron, felt, wool, spider's web, etc., may all be employed with more or less effect in stopping bleeding.

Second.—Remove all foreign matter, dirt, splinters of wood or bone, bullets, etc., as far as possible, by allowing lukewarm water to stream over wound from the mouth of a vessel; or a piece of sponge or tow may be pressed on some part above the wound so that the water may trickle over it; but the abraded part is not to be touched except in the removal of foreign substances by forceps or otherwise. Then use cold-water dressings; apply soothing applications, watery solution of opium, carbolic acid lotion, tincture of arnica, or simple ointment.

Hot fomentations may be used after cleansing to reduce inflammation.

Compress and bandage are preferable to stitches in bringing the parts together; the former to be used after the inflammation begins to subside, and the latter not until all inflammation has disappeared.

The lowest end of the wound must be kept open to permit the escape of matter during healing; this is usually accomplished by inserting a piece of dry lint between the edges of the wound. General treatment is rest and low diet.

Third.—During healing-stage dress with carbolic acid 1 part, water 20 parts; or carbolized oil; or bluestone (sulphate of copper) dissolved in water, 2 drachms to the pint; or tar ointment (tar 1 oz., sulphur ½ oz., lard 1½ oz.); or light blister of cantharides (powdered cantharides 1 part, olive-oil 12 parts) to neighboring parts in case of indolent wound. If proud flesh crops out above the surface of the wound, remove it by applying sulphate of copper or zinc (as above), or nitrate of silver, or alum, in order to keep it below the surface of skin, so that the parts may unite.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR SHOEING HORSES.

In preparing the horse's foot for the shoe do not touch with the knife the frog, sole, or bars. In removing surplus growth of that part of the foot which is the seat of the shoe use the cutting-pincers and rasp, and not the knife. The shoeing-knife may be used, if necessary, in fitting the toe-clip. Opening the heels or making a cut into the angle of the wall at the heel must not be allowed. The rasp may be used upon this part of the foot when necessary, and the same applies to the frog. No cutting with a knife is permitted, the rasp alone being used when necessary. Flat-footed horses should be treated as the necessity of each case may require. In forging the shoe to fit the foot be careful that the shoe is fitted to and follows the circumference of the foot clear around to the heels; the heels of the shoe should not be extended back straight and outside of the walls at the heels of the horse's foot, as is frequently done. The shoe must not be fitted too small and the outer surface of the walls then rasped down to make the foot short to suit the shoe, as often happens. Heat may be used in preparing and shaping the shoe, but the hot shoe must never be applied to the horse's foot. Make the upper or foot surface of the shoe perfectly flat so as to give a level bearing. A shoe with a concave ground surface should be used.

In garrison, at the discretion of the commanding officer, the horses may be left unshod. Shoes will be fitted and kept ready to be put on the horses.

The new Burden shoe called the "easy" has just been adopted as the U. S. service shoe.

Never use a nail that gives the slightest indication of splitting, a result that may be expected if they be cold-forged.

Always use a hot-forged nail. The Putnam nail, hot-forged, is excellent.

STABLES AND STABLE DUTIES.

Foul air and dampness are the cause of many diseases of the horse; hence the importance and economy of spacious, clean, dry, and well-ventilated stables. Ceilings should be twelve or fifteen feet high, with large ventilators through the roof, and a window or side aperture in each stall, which should be placed well above the horse's eyes. If possible, the building should have no upper story or loft. In stables with a loft, ventilation from the top is always insufficient, and there must be side openings well above the horses, so that the draught will pass over their heads. These openings must never be closed except on the windward side, to keep out rain or snow.

There should be a passageway for feeding in front of the stalls, and so that the horses can look to the right and left. Their heads should never be placed against a partition if it can be avoided.

Double stalls should not be less than 4½ feet by 9 feet to each horse; and single stalls should be 5 feet wide. Stalls 6 feet wide and 10½ feet long are greatly to be preferred. Not less than 1200 cubic feet should be allowed to each horse in the stable.

A picket-line is established in the immediate vicinity of the battery stable, the horses being tied to a hemp or wire rope or chain passed through the picket-posts. There should be shallow trenches behind the horses to carry off rain, the ground on which they stand having just enough slope to let the water run into the trenches, or there may be a single drain in the centre along the line of the picket-posts. Constant attention must be paid to maintaining the ground about the picket-line in good order.

Hut Stables.—Rough sheds with clapboarded roofs are the best; with the litter and some wet earth good walls can soon be constructed around the shed; these walls should be vertical on the inside, but with a good slope toward the outside. Sheds made 30 feet wide can accommodate two rows of horses, their heads being turned toward one another. Plenty of openings must be left for doors by which to remove the horses quickly in case of fire, and drainage must be well attended to. The stalls, or standing-space, should be 5 feet wide and 9 feet long.

An excellent shed can be made under the lee of a bank by erecting forked poles, placing connecting pieces, and laying thereon boards or poles and thatching.

GENERAL RULES FOR STABLE MANAGEMENT.

The stable sergeant takes immediate charge of the police and sanitary condition of the stable, picket-line, etc., and is the custodian of the forage and stable property generally.

The stable is to be kept thoroughly policed, free from smells, and well whitewashed. There must be no accumulation of manure or foul litter inside, or near the doors or windows without. The feed-boxes are washed out frequently and kept perfectly clean. The ground about the picket-line is swept daily and all dung, etc., carried to the manure-heap.

Except at night, when the horses are bedded down, no manure or urine is to remain in the stalls; the stable police remove it as fast as it accumulates.

If practicable, all woodwork within reach of the horses and not protected with sheet iron or other metal is painted with thin gas-tar, to prevent its being gnawed; it should be thoroughly dried before putting horses near it. The same precaution must be followed with regard to troughs, picket-posts, and hemp picket-line.

Smoking in stables or in their immediate vicinity is prohibited.

One or more lamps will be hung in each stable, to burn during the night.

The horses are stalled according to their positions in the battery, the teams nearest the door being led out first; their places at the picket-line will be in accordance with the same rule.

The name of each horse, and that of his rider or driver, are placed over his stall.

Clay is the best for earthen floors, as it packs well. Gravel or sandy earth is not suitable. Each man is held responsible for the removal of the earth and the levelling of the floor of his stall.

The sloping of the floor of stalls from the manger to the heel-post is injurious and uncomfortable for the animal, who stands in an unnatural position, with the fore legs higher than the hind ones. When earthen floors are not level, they give more trouble, as the horse will paw a hollow for his fore feet unless he can elevate his hind legs by backing out of the stall.

Whenever the horses go out of the stable, the windows of their stalls are to be kept open, unless necessary to exclude rain or snow, or when cold draughts affect the animals in contiguous or opposite stalls.

Stable doors are never closed in the daytime except to keep out the wet or to exclude cold winds. If the doors be in a single piece, bars are put across the doorway; if divided in half, it will be usually sufficient to open the upper part. At night, except in very hot weather, they should be closed and locked, communication with the stable being kept up by a manhole.

Except in very cold, windy weather, or in very hot weather, where there is no shade, horses should stand most of the day at the picket-line, as they have better air and are less confined, while the stables become drier and more healthful.

In ordinary climates military stables must be kept as cool as possible. If the horses do not stand directly in the draught, the colder the stable the less will they suffer if suddenly called to take the field. For the same reason horses should never be blanketed in the stable except in very cold weather in high latitudes.

STABLE DUTY.

The captain is responsible for the proper performance of stable duty in his battery.

At morning stable-call the cannoneers, assisted by the prisoners, clean out the stalls and police the stable under the direction of the stable sergeant. The bedding is taken up, that which is much soiled being separated for the manure-heap, and the remainder put on the racks or spread upon the ground to dry. If necessary, the drivers assist after they have done grooming.

At evening stable-call the stable is policed as in the morning; the bedding is laid down and fresh straw spread on top of it; the bed must be soft and even, with the thickest part toward the manger.

Horses are groomed twice daily, at morning and at evening stable-calls, under the supervision of the first sergeant and battery officer of the day. In special circumstances it may be advisable to groom only once, about noon.

The grooming is always at the picket-line, except in stormy weather.

Each driver, whether on guard or not, grooms his own horses, under the superintendence of his chief of section. Supernumerary horses are groomed by a detail of cannoneers under the direction of a corporal, who is assigned to this duty. In each platoon the horses of the chiefs of section are groomed by a cannoneer, who is permanently detailed, both horses being attached for grooming purposes to the section to which the cannoneer belongs. The trumpeters groom their own horses under the direction of the first sergeant.

At evening stable-call each man examines and cleans out his horse's feet, and sees that the shoes are in good order. Horses requiring shoeing are reported to the proper non-commissioned officer, who notifies the stable sergeant.

Each horse should be groomed not less than twenty minutes, beginning with the near horse. If any horses are not properly groomed they will be left at the picket-line, and groomed by their drivers under the direction of a non-commissioned officer of the guard.

In garrison, when there are no available prisoners, two or more men, called the stable police, are usually kept at work between morning and evening stable-calls in removing manure, policing generally, feeding, etc.

In horse-batteries stable duty is conducted on the same principles, with such modifications as the nature of the service demands.

GROOMING.

Take the currycomb in the right hand, fingers over back of comb; begin on the near side at the upper part of the neck, thence proceed to the chest, arms, shoulders, back, belly, flank, loins, and rump. Then go to the off side, taking comb in left hand, and proceed as before.

The currycomb is applied gently, and is used only to loosen the scurf and matted hair; it is not used on the legs from the knees or hocks downward except to carefully loosen dried mud.

Next take the brush in left hand, and change currycomb to right; begin at the neck on the near side, and proceed in the same order as in currying, brushing also the parts not touched by the comb; on the off side take brush in right hand, currycomb in left. In places difficult to clean apply the brush backward and forward, finishing by leaving the coat smooth. After every few strokes clean the brush from dust with the currycomb.

Having done with the brush, rub or dust off the horse with the grooming-cloth, wipe about the eyes and nostrils, and clean the dock. The skin under the flank and between the hindquarters must be soft, clean, and free from dust.

Currycombs, cards, or common combs must never be applied to the mane or tail; but the brush, fingers, and cloth are freely used on both.

The wisp is used when the horse comes in warm from exercise, and he is rubbed against the hair until dry, from his hindquarters up to his head.

FEEDING.

In garrison it is recommended that grain be fed at first call for reveille by the stable sergeant, assisted by one or two members of the stable-guard, or men detailed for the purpose. The grain, in a box on wheels, is rolled in front of each stall, when it is transferred to the feed-boxes by allowance-measures. Grain is fed again at evening stable duty as in the morning, but not until after the hay has been distributed and the stable swept up.

In camp or on the march grain is fed at morning and evening stables. The men are matched to the forage-wagons or other grain depository, where the non-commissioned officer in charge, with an allowance-measure, issues to each in turn.

Gruel is very good for horses when tired. To make it, put a double handful of fresh coarse oatmeal in a bucket, add a little cold water, mix well, and add 1½ gallons of hot (not boiling) water. Stir well till smooth, and give it at the temperature of new milk; add a wineglass or two of spirits if horse is much exhausted.

In garrison hay is fed thrice daily—immediately after morning stables, in the middle of the day, and at evening stables; at the evening feed each animal should have at least one half of his daily allowance. The dust must be well shaken out of the hay before it is put in the mangers. During the short days of winter the feeding at noon may be omitted without injury to the animals.

In camp hay is fed at the picket-line morning, noon, and evening; on the march, in the evening only.

The occasional use of bran is important for stabled horses. In spring or early summer they should have grass for at least a week or ten days, during which time they ought not to be much worked. Salt should be given at least once a week.

When forage cannot be obtained, grazing should be allowed at every spare moment, especially early in the morning when the dew is on the grass.

The daily allowance of oats, barley, or corn is 12 pounds to each horse; that of hay, 14 pounds; the allowance of straw for bedding is 100 pounds a month to each animal.

Barley and corn should both be crushed, if possible, when used to feed horses or mules.

Good oats weigh about 32 pounds to the bushel, barley about 48 pounds, corn about 56 pounds. Pressed hay weighs about 11 pounds per cubic foot.

Good Oats are clean, hard, dry, sweet, plump, full of flour, and rattle like shot. They have a clean and almost metallic lustre. Those in a sample vary but little in size, and are entirely free from smell. The pressure of the nail ought to leave little or no mark on them. The value of an oat depends mainly on its weight per bushel. Dirty oats weigh heavier than clean ones.

New oats can be distinguished from old by their smell, which is fresh and earthy, and by their taste, which is fresh and milky, while that of the old oats is slightly bitter. New oats are indigestible. Oats one year old are best.

Various Defects in Oats.—Kiln-dried.—Oats that have been dried to render them hard after they have been damp. They have a loose and shrivelled appearance about the ends of the husks, and are easily recognized by their peculiar smell and reddish color.

Foxy Oats.—Oats that have undergone a certain process of fermentation from having been stowed in bulk when not perfectly dry. They are unfit for horses, are of a reddish color, and have both bitter smell and taste. Their reddish color is sometimes gotten rid of by subjecting them to fumes of sulphur, which makes them unnaturally white.

Damp Oats are objectionable and should be rejected. Continued dampness soon produces softness, mustiness, mouldiness, and sprouting.

Dirty Oats.—This can be remedied by winnowing.

Hay.—There is a great variety of grasses. The best hay contains a large proportion of the best of these, along with clover and other good herbage, and only a small proportion of the inferior kinds, whilst in the inferior kinds of hay good herbage is nearly entirely wanting, and the inferior grasses predominate.

The characteristics of good hay are green color combined with a delicate smell and taste, a presence of flowers in their natural colors, and of a variety of grasses and good herbage (not weeds), and clover of moderate fineness, crispness, and hardness.

Straw must be wheat, oats, or rye straw; barley induces disease of the skin. It ought to be long and strong. Horses are inclined to eat wheat straw when new.

WATERING.

Horses must be watered quietly, and without confusion; the manner in which this duty is performed is a good test of the discipline of a mounted command.

Horses are to be led or ridden at a walk to and from water, depending upon its distance from the stable. At the drinking-place no horse should be hurried or have his head jerked up from the water.

If a stream is used for watering horses from the bank, the level of the water must not be more than 3 or 4 inches below the latter; and if the water is very shallow dams should be constructed to deepen it, as animals drink more rapidly when water is at least 6 inches deep. Mules should be watered higher up stream than horses. When animals will not drink from a stream, they will frequently do so from a bucket with a handful of grass on the water.

In the field or on the march the watering is from the most convenient running water; in garrison it is usually from troughs. In warm weather water drawn from a cold well or spring before being used should stand long enough for the chill to pass off.

The horses are watered under the immediate direction of the first sergeant, but if they are liable to meet those of other commands at the watering-place a commissioned officer should replace him.

During the hot months horses are watered thrice daily—in the morning, at noon, and just before grooming in the afternoon. At other times two waterings are enough, after morning and at evening stables. In very cold weather once a day, at noon, is sufficient. It is to be always remembered that a horse will rarely drink enough very early in the morning.

The daily allowance of water for a horse is six gallons.

On the march horses are watered with buckets carried on the carriages. The oftener this is done the better, as it is not usually known when another watering-place will be reached.

When horses have to make a day's march without water, they will be watered after they are fed, just before leaving camp in the morning.

If a mounted command has to march a long distance without water, so that it will be necessary to encamp en route, the animals are well fed, but denied water until just before starting, when they are permitted to drink freely. The command marches in the afternoon, and does not encamp until it has accomplished at least half of the distance, and moves early the next morning to reach water.

TRAINING HORSES.

Horses are trained by the best horsemen, under the supervision of an officer or non-commissioned officer.

It should be carefully impressed upon the men that the horse may be made gentle and obedient by patience, kindness, and fearlessness; that punishment is only to be resorted to when necessary, and then only administered immediately after the commission of the offense; and that nothing should ever be done to the horse in anger.

The restlessness or impatience which frequently arises from exuberance of spirits and playfulness must be carefully distinguished from that which arises from viciousness or timidity.

When restless, the horse should be held until he becomes calm; when submissive after punishment, he should be treated kindly. The men should endeavor to inspire him with confidence, and he should gradually be accustomed to warlike sounds—firing, beating of drums, etc. As one horse is apt to be governed by the actions of another, trained horses that are indifferent to such sounds should be interspersed among the new ones.

The first object to be obtained in training a horse is to render him gentle and tractable by progressive lessons. For this purpose all proper means must be employed, such as feeding, handling, patting him, taking up his feet, etc., and the practice of the longe.

The practice of the longe is also intended to supple him and teach him the free and proper use of his limbs. It likewise aids in forming his paces and fits him for service in the battery.

The men employed in this most important part of the horse's education must be selected for their natural fondness for animals, as well as for their patience, coolness, and intelligence, and should not be changed until the horses are sufficiently instructed to take their places in the battery.

BRIDLING.

A plain snaffle-bridle should at first be used and put on with great care and gentleness. If the horse resists, no violence should be used. He should be turned round in his stall and the instructor should take the end of the halter while the man quiets and encourages the horse. By careful treatment he will soon be accustomed to the sight of the bit and will allow it to be placed in his mouth. The reins will be tied so as to hang loosely on the neck.

Cavesson.—The cavesson is a bridle head-stall, to which a nose-band, encircling the horse's head, is added; the latter is adjustable by means of a buckle; the chin-strap has a running ring to which the longeing-strap is attached. When the snaffle-bridle has been properly fitted, the cavesson is carefully put on. The nose-band should be about three inches above the nostrils; if higher, it would partly lose its power; if lower it would affect the horse's breathing. It must not be so tight as to make the horse uneasy.

LONGEING.

This instruction should be begun on a circle from fifteen to twenty yards in diameter. As horses are usually fed, watered, saddled, and led from the near side, they are inclined to lead better from that than the off side. It will therefore generally be found necessary to give two lessons on the right to one on the left.

The first lesson to be taught the young horse is to go forward. Until he does this freely nothing else should be required of him. When he obeys freely, he should occasionally be stopped and caressed.

If the horse hesitates or stands still when he is ordered to move on, he should be encouraged, as such hesitation oftener comes from fear and ignorance as to what is required than from obstinacy or vice.

The horse should at first be led around the circle at a walk. A man with a whip (with which at first the horse should not be struck) should follow at a short distance and show the whip occasionally if the horse is inclined to hang back; if this does not produce the desired effect, he should strike the ground in rear of the horse, and at length touch him lightly with the whip until he obeys.

After the horse begins to move freely at a walk the man holding the longeing-rein should gently urge him to the trot, gradually lengthening the rein so that it may be scarcely felt, and should go round the circle at an active pace nearly opposite the horse's shoulder so as to keep him out and press him forward. If the horse takes kindly to this lesson, the man holding the rein may lengthen it by degrees until he has only to turn in the same spot, the man with the whip being careful to keep the horse out to the line of the circle. Should the horse break his pace, or plunge, the rein should be shaken without jerking it until he returns to the trot.

The man holding the longeing-rein should have a light and easy hand. For the first two or three days the horse must not be urged too much; if he goes gently, without jumping or resisting, enough is accomplished. He should be longed to the right, left, and right again, changing from a walk to a trot and back again in each case. He should be frequently halted by gently feeling the rein and speaking to him.

After a few days of the above practice the horse may be urged a little more in the trot, but the greatest care and attention are requisite to teach him the use of his limbs without straining him. Much harm may be done in this instruction by a sudden jerk or too forcible pull of the longe.

Care must be taken that the lessons are not made so long as to fatigue or fret the horse. At first they should be short and be gradually increased in length as the instruction progresses. At the conclusion of each lesson the horse should be led to the centre of the ring and made much of. The man holding the longeing-rein should take it short in one hand, at the same time patting and rubbing the horse about the head and neck with the other; he should then try to bend the horse's neck a little to the right and then to the left by means of the longeing-rein. The bend should be in the very poll of the neck, and this exercise should be repeated at the end of every lesson, cautiously and by slow degrees, until the horse responds easily. This exercise will greatly facilitate the future instruction of the animal.

The running-rein is of great value in teaching a horse to keep his head in a proper position, and affords valuable aid in his first handling. If judiciously used, it saves the rider a great deal of trouble and the horse much ill usage. It is especially useful in controlling horses that are inclined to bolt. It should act directly on the snaffle-bit itself, and is wholly independent of the reins.

The Running-rein consists of three parts—the chin-strap, martingale, and rein.

The Chin-strap, about six to eight inches long, on which is suspended a loose ring, is fastened to both snaffle-bit rings.

The Martingale has only one ring; the loop through which the girth passes is made adjustable by a buckle. The martingale is so adjusted that when taut the ring will be on a level with the points of the horse's shoulders.

The Rein is about eight and one half feet long; one end is buckled into the near pommel-ring; the free end is then passed through the martingale-ring from rear to front, thence through the chin-strap ring from left to right, thence through the martingale-ring from front to rear, and is held in the rider's right hand. A pull on this rein will act directly on the mouth-piece, drawing it back and somewhat downward toward the horse's breast-bone.

PREPARATORY LESSON TO MAKE THE HORSE TRACTABLE.

Before commencing the bending lessons it is well to give the horse a preparatory one in obedience. This first act of submission makes the horse quiet and gives him confidence, and gives the man such ascendancy as to prevent the horse at the outset from resisting the means employed to bring him under control.

Go up to the horse, pat him on the neck, and speak to him; then take the reins from the horse's neck and hold them at a few inches from the rings of the bit with the left hand; take such position as to offer as much resistance as possible to the horse should he attempt to break away; hold the whip in the right hand, with the point down; raise the whip quietly and tap the horse on the breast; the horse naturally tries to move back to avoid the whip; follow the horse, pulling at the same time against him, and continuing the use of the whip; be careful to show no sign of anger nor any symptom of yielding. The horse, tired of trying ineffectually to avoid the whip, soon ceases to pull and moves forward; then drop the point of the whip and make much of him. This repeated once or twice usually proves sufficient; the horse, having found how to avoid the punishment, no longer waits for the application of the whip, but anticipates it by moving up at the slightest gesture.

BENDING LESSONS.

These lessons should be given to the horse each day so long as the snaffle-bit is used alone; but the exercise should be varied, so that the horse may not become fatigued or disgusted.

The balance of the horse's body and his lightness in hand depend on the proper carriage of his head and neck.

A young horse usually tries to resist the bit, either by bending his neck to one side, by setting his jaw against the bit, or by carrying his nose too high or too low.

The bending lessons serve to make a horse manageable by teaching him to conform to the movements of the reins and to yield to the pressure of the bit. During the lessons the horse must never be hurried.

To Bend the Horse's Neck to the Right.—Take a position on the near side of the horse, in front of his shoulder and facing toward his neck; take the off rein close up to the bit with the right hand, the near rein the same way with the left hand, the thumbs toward each other, the little fingers outward; bring the right hand toward the body, at the same time extend the left arm so as to turn the head to the horse's right.

The force employed must be gradual and proportioned to the resistance met with, and care must be taken not to bring the horse's nose too close to his chest. If the horse moves backward, continue the pressure until, finding it impossible to avoid the restraint imposed by the bit, he stands still and yields to it.

When the bend is complete, the horse holds his head there without any restraint and champs the bit; then make much of him and let him resume his natural position by degrees, without throwing his head around hurriedly. A horse, as a rule, champs the bit when he ceases to resist.

The horse's neck is bent to the left in a similar manner, the man standing on the off side.

To Rein in.—Cross the reins behind the horse's jaw, taking the near rein in the right hand and the off rein in the left, at about six inches from the rings; draw them across each other till the horse gives way to the pressure and brings his nose in. Prevent the horse from raising his head by lowering the hands. When the horse gives way to the cross-pressure of the reins, ease the hand and make much of him.

SADDLING.

This should be done at first on the longeing-ground. One man, facing the horse and taking the snaffle-reins in both hands near the bit, should hold him while another places the saddle on his back. If the horse shows no uneasiness or resistance, let down the cincha-strap and cincha; fasten the cincha-strap loosely at first, and tighten it afterwards by degrees. Care must be taken not to make the cincha so tight as to cause uneasiness to the horse. If the horse resists or is restless, remove the saddle and let him see and smell it; he will then generally allow it to be placed; if necessary, strap up a leg until the horse is saddled. The longeing is then continued with the horse saddled.

MOUNTING.

When the horse becomes accustomed to the saddle, he should be mounted. Two men should assist the man who is to mount. The man with the longe, facing the horse and taking the snaffle-reins in both hands near the bit, holds his head rather high and engages his attention; the second man bears down on the off stirrup at the proper moment to keep the saddle even when the third man mounts. The man who mounts proceeds with caution, stopping and caressing the horse if he shows any uneasiness; after being seated the man pats the horse a few moments, and without attempting to make him move, dismounts with the care and gentleness exercised in mounting. This is repeated several times, until the horse submits without fear. The rider then mounts, takes a snaffle-rein in each hand, and feels lightly the horse's mouth; the man with the longe leads the horse forward and afterwards longes him to the left, and then to the right, at a walk; if the horse shows any disposition to kick or plunge, the longe is shaken to engage his attention and to keep up his head. After a few turns the rider dismounts, the horse is fed from the hand, patted, and dismissed.

These lessons are continued until the horse can be mounted and dismounted without any difficulty; and when he can be made to go forward, to the right and left, to halt and rein back by gentle application of the aids, the longe is dispensed with.

The horse is now exercised in the riding-hall or open manÈge, the lessons for young horses not exceeding three quarters of an hour. The horse is ridden on the track first at a walk, then at a slow trot, and afterwards the trot and walk are alternated, care being taken to turn the corners squarely; the horse is next marched to the right and left, halted and reined back to accustom him to obey the bit and the pressure of the legs. When he is obedient to the snaffle, the horse is equipped with the curb-bit. The bit must have rings at the ends of the mouthpiece for snaffle-reins, or a bit-bridoon must be used in order that the horse may be accustomed by degrees to the action of the curb-bit. The first instruction given to the horse with the curb-bit is bending the neck and reining in, dismounted; he is then mounted and exercised in the riding-hall or open manÈge as before described, and receives the bending and reining lessons mounted.

BENDING LESSONS, MOUNTED.

The horse is now equipped with a curb-bridle.

To Bend the Horse's Neck to the Right.—Adjust the reins in the left hand; seize the right rein with the right hand well down; draw it gently to the right and rear until the horse's head is brought completely around to the right, in the same position as in the bend dismounted. When the horse champs the bit, make much of him, and allow him to resume his natural position. The horse's neck is bent to the left in a similar manner.

To Rein in.—Lower the bridle-hand as much as possible, turning the back uppermost; with the right hand, nails down, take hold of the curb-reins above and close to the left hand and shorten them by degrees, drawing them through the left hand, which closes on the reins each time they are shortened.

When the horse resists much and holds his nose up, keep the reins steady; do not shorten or lengthen them; close the legs to prevent the horse from backing; after remaining perhaps a minute or more with his nose up and his jaw set against the bit he will yield, bring his nose in, and champ the bit; make much of him, loosen the reins, and after a few seconds rein in again.

This exercise gives the horse confidence, and teaches him to arch his neck and bring his head in proper position whenever he feels the bit.

Most young horses are afraid of the bit, and they must never be frightened by sudden jerks on the reins, lest they should afterwards refuse to stand the requisite pressure of the bit. A certain amount of bearing is necessary to induce the horse to work boldly and well, as well as to apprise the rider of what the horse is going to do.

In reining in, some horses rest the lower jaw against the breast; to counteract this, press both legs equally and force the horse forward to the bit.

Some horses will not work up to the hand; that is, will not bear the bit at all. Such horses are unfit for the service.

Whenever, without an apparent cause, a horse resists or is restive, the bit, saddle, and equipment should be carefully examined to see if any part hurts or irritates him.

REARING.

Should the horse rear, the rider must yield the hand when the horse is up, and urge him vigorously forward when he is coming down; if the horse is punished while up, he may spring and fall backward.

Use the running-rein with a rearing horse.

KICKING.

This can be prevented by holding the horse's head well up and closing the legs; if necessary, they are closed so much as to force the horse forward.

SHYING.

This sometimes results from defect of sight and sometimes from fear. If from fear, the horse must be taken up to the object with great patience and gentleness, and be allowed to touch the object with his nose. In no case should a horse be punished for timidity. The dread of chastisement will increase his restiveness.

TO ACCUSTOM THE HORSES TO FIRING.

Station a few men at a little distance from and on both sides of the stable-door, and cause them to fire pistols as the horses are led into the stable to be fed; for the same object a gun may be fired during the hour of feeding. If a horse is nervous, he may be put on the longe and fed from the hand and petted each time the pistol is discharged; or he may be thrown, care being taken not to discharge the pistol so as to burn him or injure him in any way. The horses should be trained to be steady under the fire of the pieces, and also under pistol-firing by the cannoneers on the chests and by the drivers from their teams.

SWIMMING HORSES.

The horses are at first equipped with the watering-bridle, and are without saddles. The reins are on the horse's neck just in front of the withers, and knotted so that they will not hang low enough to entangle the horse's feet, care being taken to have them loose enough to permit the horse to push his nose well out, so as to have entire freedom of the head. The horse should be watered before putting him into the stream.

When the rider gets into deep water, he drops the reins, seizes a lock of the mane with the up-stream hand, allows his body to drift off quietly to the down-stream side of the horse, and floats or swims flat on the water, guiding the horse as much as possible by splashing water against his head, only using the reins when splashing fails. The horse is easily controlled when swimming; he is also easily confused, and it is therefore necessary that the rider should be gentle and deliberate. The rider must be cautioned that the horse is easily pulled over backward by the reins when swimming, and also that he may plunge when he touches bottom. When the horse touches the bottom at the landing, the rider pulls himself on the horse's back and takes the reins.

The rider may also be required to swim, holding the horse's tail, allowing the horse to tow him.

After the man and horse have gained confidence, the rider may be required to be seated on the horse while swimming. As the extra weight presses the horse down and impedes his movements, the rider should hold his knees well up to lessen the resistance, and steady his seat by holding on to the mane or pommel of the saddle.

The men are instructed, in crossing running water, to keep their eyes fixed on the opposite bank.

The practice of swimming gives horses confidence in deep water when in harness. Streams deep and wide enough to swim one and even two pairs of a team have been crossed by light artillery in our service.

BREAKING IN THE YOUNG HORSE TO HARNESS.

The harness should be put on the horse in the stable with caution, and at first without the traces, so that in the event of the horse jumping about they will not hang about his legs and frighten him. The horse should then be fed in his harness, and after standing for some hours be walked about in it.

When the horse has thus been fed and walked about, and has become reconciled to the harness, the traces should be attached, and a rope tied to the rear end of each; a man then takes the ends of the ropes, and the horse is walked about, the man holding the ropes, taking care that the traces do not rub against the sides of the horse in the beginning, but accustom him to them gradually.

When the horse has become accustomed to the pressure of the collar and traces, he may then be hitched in with a steady horse. At first the utmost caution should be observed and a foreleg held up, if necessary, while the traces are being fastened, and no noise or shouting should be permitted. After being hitched in, the horse should be permitted to stand still for some minutes before the carriage is started, and it should be put in motion by the other horses. The horse should be left to himself and not be required to draw at first; all that should be demanded of him is to move forward quietly.

MANAGEMENT OF VICIOUS HORSES.

A vicious or refractory horse may be thrown. He is thus made to submit to control without exciting his resentment, or suffering any other physical pain than that resulting from his own resistance. During the operation the man acts with deliberation, speaks with a kind voice, and never uses harsh treatment.

TO THROW THE HORSE.

The method explained is a modification of the one generally known as "Rarey's Method." The horse is equipped with a watering-bridle and surcingle. The surcingle is buckled securely but not tightly around the horse's body just back of the withers. The man is provided with two strong straps. No. 1 is about ten feet long and one inch wide, and has a loop or iron ring at one end. No. 2 is about three feet six inches long and from one and one half to two inches wide; one end has a strong buckle and two keepers (one on each side of the strap). In the absence of straps as specified, the halter-strap may be substituted for No. 1, and the stirrup-strap for No. 2.

The horse is taken to an open space, preferably covered with turf, free from stones, etc., to prevent injuring the horse's knees. Pass the free end of No. 1 through the ring and make a slip-loop; raise the horse's off forefoot, and place the loop around the pastern; see that the loop has no twist in it; let the foot down, draw the strap taut, and pass the free end over the horse's back from the off side and under the surcingle from front to rear, the free end hanging down on the near side. Pass the free end of No. 2 through the inside keeper and make a slip-loop; raise the near forefoot and place the loop around the pastern, with the buckle outside, and make it snug; raise the heel against the forearm, pass the free end of the strap, from the inside, over the forearm, and buckle the strap sufficiently tight to hold the leg in this position. Let the bridle-reins either hang down or place them on the neck; they may be caught hold of at any time after the first plunging is over. It is important that the off forefoot be kept from the ground after the horse first raises it, and this will be better accomplished if both hands are used at strap No. 1 during the first plunge.

The man takes his place behind the surcingle on the near side of and close to the horse, the left foot in advance, and grasps securely with the left hand the free end of No. 1, and, if the strap is long enough, makes a turn with it around the left hand, the right hand grasping it loosely, forefingers close to the surcingle, back of the hand against the horse's back. Quietly and gently urge the horse forward; the instant he raises his foot, pull the strap with the left hand, bring the off heel against the forearm, the strap slipping through the right hand, which should be kept in place, but which grasps the strap as soon as the foot is sufficiently raised, and holds it firmly; make a turn with the strap around the right hand, and take both reins in the left hand on the near side of the horse. The horse is now brought to his knees; bring the horse's nose well to the left and raised, placing the right shoulder and arm against the horse's side, thus indicating to him that he is to lie on his right side. A horse of a stubborn disposition may remain in this kneeling position for some time, and this he should be allowed to do until he is willing to lie down of his own volition. No force will be used to push the horse down. From this kneeling position the horse may rear and plunge, but as he moves so should the man, maintaining his relative position to the horse, and a firm hold of the long strap, in order to deprive the horse of the use of his right foreleg. In most cases, after remaining in this kneeling position for a short time, the horse will lie down. The man maintains his hold of the strap and reins until the horse is quiet and shows no immediate disposition to attempt to rise; or he has the strap and reins so placed that he can grasp them directly the horse attempts to get up.

To dispel his fears and reconcile him to his unexpectedly assumed position, he should now be petted, spoken to in a kindly tone of voice, and generally made much of. When he becomes quiet and ceases to struggle, the man should pass around him, handle his feet, and straighten out and rub his legs. If the horse shows no inclination to rise before being told to do so, the straps may be unfastened and removed, but so long as the eye shows a wild, startled expression the straps should not be removed. The eye is the true index of the horse's feelings and disposition, and if closely observed will always betray his intentions.

When he has remained in the lying position for a short time after the straps have been removed, and he no longer struggles or attempts to rise, or if he attempts to rise and cannot be prevented from doing so, the man should raise his horse's head a little with the reins and command: "Up!" When the horse gets up, he should be made much of and given to understand that he has done what was required of him. It will be advantageous to throw the horse three or four times at each lesson, but the throwings should not follow each other in rapid succession, in order to avoid the overfatigue and constraint which might incite the horse to insubordination and resistance.

It will be found that horses of a peculiarly wilful and stubborn disposition will not lie quiet after the straps have been removed. To overcome horses of this class, the long strap should be made fast to the left fore foot so that both knees will be secured in a bent position. The horse need be no longer held, but will be allowed to struggle. He may rear, or plunge, or assume a kneeling position, but whatever he may do no restraint should be put upon him. After finding that all his struggles are of no avail, and that the only result attained by them is suffering to himself, he will succumb and quietly lie down. When, from his ceasing to struggle when handled, and from the appearance of his eye, there is reason to believe that the horse has yielded, the straps may be gradually loosened and removed. Two or three lessons properly administered in this way will conquer the most stubborn horse.

After a stubborn horse has been thrown several times, it may happen that he will not permit his fore leg to be strapped up, and will resist by rearing, plunging, striking, or kicking. In such cases another strap, "No. 3," may be necessary. This is a strong leather surcingle about three inches wide in which two iron rings, about two feet six inches apart, are securely fastened. The leather girth is secured so that the rings will be about the middle of the horse's sides. Two long straps, "No. 1," are used. One is placed on each front pastern without raising the foot. The free ends of the straps are run through the rings on the surcingle so that they can be used as a pair of driving-reins. These straps are held by one man in rear of the horse, while another, approaching the horse on the near side, attempts to raise his left foot. The instant the horse rears, strikes, or plunges he is brought to his knees by the man holding the long reins; after this is repeated several times the horse will allow his foot to be strapped up. Should the horse stand, or refuse to move, the whip may be used.

These means may be used to break horses of rearing, plunging, or bucking under the saddle. In this case the surcingle is dispensed with; the rider holds the straps and exerts sufficient force when the horse is refractory to bring him to his knees. The same means may be used to discipline horses which refuse to carry double, the man in the rear holding the straps.

TO BREAK THE HORSE OF KICKING.

The horse is thrown and one end of each of the long straps is made fast to the bit-rings; the other ends are passed through the rings on the leather surcingle and secured to the hind pasterns. When thus secured, all means should be resorted to in order to make the horse kick, and this should be repeated until he no longer struggles or attempts to move his hind legs under any provocation whatever.

TREATMENT AND CARE OF HORSES.

Horses require gentle treatment. Docile, but bold, horses are apt to retaliate upon those who abuse them, while persistent kindness often reclaims vicious animals.

A horse must never be kicked in the belly, or struck about the head with the hands, reins, or any instrument whatever.

Never threaten, strike, or otherwise abuse a horse.

Before entering a stall speak to the horse gently, and then go in quietly.

Never take a rapid gait until the horse has been warmed up by gentle exercise.

Never put up a horse brought to the stable or line heated, but throw a blanket over him and rub his legs, or walk him until cool. If he is wet, put him under shelter and wisp him against the hair until dry.

Never feed grain to a horse, or allow him to stand uncovered, when heated. Hay will not hurt a horse no matter how warm he may be.

Never water a horse when heated, unless the exercise or march is to be immediately resumed. A few mouthfuls of water, however, will do no harm, and should ordinarily be given him.

Never throw water over a horse coming in hot, not even over his legs or feet.

Never allow a horse's back to be cooled suddenly by washing or even removing the blanket unnecessarily.

To cool the back gradually, the blanket may be removed and replaced with the dry side next the horse.

At least two hours' exercise daily is necessary to the health and good condition of horses; they should be marched a few miles when cold weather, muddy ground, etc., prevent drill.

Horses' legs will be often hand-rubbed, particularly after severe exercise, as this removes enlargement and relieves or prevents stiffness.

In mild weather the sheath will be washed out once a month with warm water and castile soap and then greased; during the cold season the intervals between washings should be longer.

Sore backs and galled shoulders are generally occasioned by neglect. The greatest pains will be taken in the fitting of the saddles and collars; the men must never be allowed to lounge or sit unevenly in their saddles. Every driver should keep a pair of soft leather pads, stuffed with hair, about six inches by four; the moment any tenderness is noticed in a horse's shoulder, the pressure is removed by placing these pads under the collar above and below the tender part.

DESTRUCTION OF HORSES.

Occasions arise rendering the destruction of horses necessary. The following instructions will enable one to arrive at a point directly over the summit of the brain, and which when fired upon will cause instantaneous death. Draw a line, A A, horizontally across the forehead from the upper margin of one zygomatic ridge to the other, and from its central point, B, measure vertically upward on the forehead 3½ to 4½ inches. The point, D, thus obtained is directly over the brain-cavity.

Fig. 76.