  (The figures in brackets after each name give the population of the parish in 1901, from the official returns, and those at the end of each paragraph are references to the pages in the text.) Appledore (2625). A small sea-port at the mouth of the Torridge, wrongly supposed, through confusion with an Appledore in Kent, to have been the landing-place of Hubba the Dane. (pp. 27, 61, 130, 131.) Ashburton (2628). A market-town on the Yeo, eight miles south-west of Newton Abbot, one of the Stannary Towns, with some manufacture of cloth. A good centre for Dartmoor, and with a fine church and other old buildings. Near it are Holne Chase and the Buckland Woods, with very beautiful scenery. (pp. 46, 112, 118, 120, 151, 173, 212.) Axminster (2906). Close to the border of Dorset, high above the Axe. Interesting for the history of its church, founded in 755, and endowed by Athelstan after his victory over the Danes. The manufacture of Axminster carpets was discontinued here in 1835. (pp. 114, 150, 153, 168, 170, 199, 206.) Axmouth (643). A pretty village in a combe in rugged chalk cliffs, near the mouth of the Axe. The coast here has been much altered by landslips. (pp. 66, 199.) Bampton (1657). An old market-town, near the border of Somerset, with a very large annual fair, especially for the sale of sheep and Exmoor ponies. Has also large limestone quarries. (p. 191.) Barnstaple (11,999). The chief town of North Devon, nine miles from the mouth of the Taw, where the river widens into a tidal estuary. It formerly had much trade with America, but is now noted only for its pottery, called Barum ware. The river is spanned by a famous stone bridge of 16 arches, dating from the thirteenth century. (pp. 82, 101, 112, 114, 130, 131, 139, 149, 173, 192, 206, 207, 210, 212.) Beer (1118). A fishing-village at the foot of a narrow, deep valley near the Dorset border, noted for lace-making, and for its very extensive subterranean quarries of fine building-stone. (pp. 68, 112, 114, 123, 168, 200.) Bere Alston. A village eight miles north of Plymouth, close to the border of Cornwall, was formerly noted for its rich silver mine, flooded by the Tamar in 1860. (p. 121.) Berry Pomeroy (423). A village in the valley of the Dart, near Totnes, famous for its ruined castle, the most picturesque ruin in Devonshire. (pp. 100, 176, 188.) Bideford (8754) is a market-town and river-port near the mouth of the Torridge, here crossed by a fine bridge, built in the fifteenth century in place of the dangerous ford which gave its name to the town. It was a very important place in Armada days, and formerly had great trade with Newfoundland and other American colonies. (pp. 114, 123, 130, 131, 194, 204, 207, 210.) Bovey Tracy (2693), six miles north-west of Newton Abbot, is noted for beds of clay and lignite, and for its potteries. (pp. 25, 40, 114, 122, 123.) Brixham (8092), a sea-port with a good harbour, a market-town, and a very important fishing-station, with many trawlers, stands on Berry Head, at the south end of Torbay. Here William of Orange landed in 1688. (pp. 73, 118, 128, 130, 132, 150, 154, 197.) Buckfastleigh (2781) is a small town in the Dart valley, with woollen factories. Buckfast Abbey, a Saxon foundation, was restored and reinhabited by French Benedictine monks in 1882. (pp. 112, 171, 184, 200.) Buckland Abbey, seven miles north of Plymouth, was in part converted into a dwelling-house by Sir Richard Grenville, and this was afterwards altered by Sir Francis Drake, of whom interesting relics are here preserved. (pp. 54, 145, 166, 184.) Budleigh Salterton (1883). A small port and favourite watering-place, beautifully situated five miles east of the mouth of the Exe. (pp. 69, 129, 199.) Chagford (1397). A small market-town, high above the Teign valley, on the borders of Dartmoor, forming a good centre for tourists, naturalists, and archaeologists. There are many Bronze Age antiquities in the neighbourhood. (pp. 25, 120, 191, 204.) Chudleigh (1820), seven miles inland from Dawlish, contains the ruins of the palace of the Bishop of Exeter, built in 1080. Ugbrooke, often visited by Dryden, is a mile away. (pp. 123, 199, 200, 221.) Chumleigh (1158), is a village on high ground above the valley of the Taw, chiefly interesting for the history of the Seven Prebends of its church. (pp. 172, 196, 197.) Clovelly (621). A small but extraordinarily picturesque fishing-village, consisting of one cobble-paved street, running steeply up a narrow ravine through a densely-wooded hill-side. Clovelly Colyton (1943) is a small market-town, beautifully situated in the Coly valley, near the border of Dorset, with a fine church. (pp. 114, 122, 150, 168, 191.) Combe Martin (1521), a village on the coast six miles east of Ilfracombe, in a fertile valley, was formerly noted for its very rich silver mine; now for market-gardening. (pp. 15, 121, 171, 172.) Countisbury (279) is a little village on the west side of the Foreland, close to the Somerset border. Crediton (3974), a market-town with boot and shoe, and cider factories, stands above the valley of the Creedy, eight miles north-west of Exeter, whither the see of the Bishopric was, for greater safety, moved from here by Leofric, in 1050. The very fine church, of unusual length, contains many monuments. (pp. 112, 118, 168, 172, 200, 219.) Cullompton (2919) is a market-town 12 miles north-east of Exeter, on the road from Bristol. The manor belonged to Buckland Abbey. The Walronds is a fine Elizabethan mansion. (pp. 112, 118, 172, 173.) Dartington (478), so-named when the tidal estuary of the Dart ran close to it, is now a suburb of Totnes. Dartington Hall is a very fine Elizabethan house. (pp. 129, 194.) Dartmouth (6579), a market-town, and favourite resort of yachtsmen, and formerly a port of great importance, at the narrow entrance of the Dart estuary, is a place of exceptional beauty and of great historic interest, built in terraces on a steep, wooded hill. In the old town along the quay and in the Butter-Walk are fine old Elizabethan houses. St Saviour's, one of its four churches, dates from 1372, and has a splendid rood-screen and a very fine pulpit. The land-locked harbour was guarded by two castles. On a hill above the town is the great white building of the naval college, which has superseded the old training-ship Britannia. (pp. 23, 74, 75, 129, 130, 132, 140, 147, 172, 175, 176, 191, 200, 210, 212, 218, 222.) Dartmouth, from Warfleet Dawlish (4287) is a charming and highly popular watering-place with fine sands and beautiful red cliffs, in a sheltered combe, south of the estuary of the Exe. A pretty pleasure garden called the Lawn, with a stream through it, divides the new town from the old. (pp. 69, 80, 128.) Devonport (70,437) is a parliamentary, municipal, and county borough, on high ground above the estuary of the Tamar, two miles west-north-west of Plymouth, one of the chief naval arsenals in Britain, with government establishments—dockyards, barracks, magazines, etc.—stretching nearly four miles along the Hamoaze, a great anchorage for men-of-war. (pp. 79, 118, 210, 212.) Drewsteignton (673), a large village near the Teign, not far from which is the Spinster's Rock, the only cromlech in Devonshire. (p. 154.) Exeter (47,185), the capital of Devonshire, and long regarded as the Key of the West of England, is a picturesque old city, standing on high ground above the Exe, which passes through the town. It is a port, with a large basin connected with the estuary of the Exe by a canal. A municipal, county, and parliamentary borough, it has factories of agricultural implements and gloves, and there are large nurseries round it. Of its castle of Rougemont, built by the Conqueror in 1067, little now remains. But its magnificent cathedral, which contains many most beautiful and interesting features, is the finest example of the Decorated style of architecture in England. Other interesting or important The history of the town is of the highest interest, and is linked with every event of importance connected with the county. It has been besieged in turn by Danes and Normans and Saxons, by King Stephen, by the army of Perkin Warbeck, and the rebels of the "Commotion," by the Yorkists, and by Royalists and Parliamentarians. Many distinguished Bishops have held the see; and noteworthy names of those who have been born in the city are those of the "Judicious" Hooker, Sir Thomas Bodley, and the Princess Henrietta, daughter of Charles I, and afterwards Duchess of Orleans. (pp. 22, 101, 112, 118, 132, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 160, 163, 164, 168, 170, 171, 175, 176, 178, 180, 181, 182, 187, 195, 196, 197, 200, 203, 204, 205, 210, 212, 219, 221, 222.) Exminster (2550), a village on the west bank of the Exe, where is a large asylum. Exmouth (10,485), once a sea-port, is a rapidly growing and very popular watering-place, with docks and brick-works, at the entrance of the estuary of the Exe, here narrowed to a swift current by the sand-bank called the Warren. (pp. 22, 82, 96, 129, 132, 191, 206.) Haccombe (9), the smallest parish in England, contains the residence, not always occupied, of the Carew family, and three other houses. In the tiny church, the rector of which is an "arch-priest," are many memorials. (pp. 171, 176, 209.) Hartland (1634), a small town in a very large but thinly-inhabited parish, stands on the west side of Hartland Point. In the church, whose lofty tower serves as a steering-mark for ships in the Bristol Channel, is one of the longest rood-screens in Devon, and also a good Norman font and door. (pp. 64, 150, 170, 172, 173, 175, 184.) Holbeton (850) stands on the Erme estuary, ten miles from Plymouth. Its fine church contains a magnificent rood-screen and a Norman font. (pp. 175, 196.) Holcombe Rogus (607), on the Somerset border, south-west of Wellington, contains a church in which are many monuments of the Bluett family, who formerly owned Holcombe Rogus Court, the finest Tudor mansion in the county. (p. 195.) Holne (273), a small village in the beautifully-wooded valley of the Upper Dart, was the birth-place of Charles Kingsley. The church has a fine screen and pulpit. (pp. 23, 160, 175, 220.) Holsworthy (1371), is an important market near the border of Cornwall, ten miles inland from Bude. The very ancient horse-fair of St Peter is held here in July. Honiton (3271), a municipal borough on the London and Exeter road, 16 miles from the latter town, gives its name to the lace which was first made here by Flemish refugees. St Margaret's Hospital for Lepers has been converted into almshouses. Four miles away is Hembury fort, one of the finest camps in Devon. (pp. 112, 138, 161, 175, 210, 212.) Ilfracombe (8557), a small sea-port and very popular watering-place on the north coast, having a land-locked harbour sheltered by the Capstone Hill, and with the Chapel of St Nicholas, now a lighthouse, at the entrance of it, is celebrated for the exceptional mildness of its climate. (pp. 58, 94, 130, 131, 150, 151, 170, 206.) Instow (634), a small but very ancient port, at the point where the Taw and the Torridge meet, has weekly communication with Lundy. (pp. 27, 61.) Kenton (1612), a very picturesque village, inland from Starcross, with a fine church of red sandstone, whose rood-screen, partly Flemish, is one of the best in England, and its oaken pulpit perhaps the finest in Devon. (pp. 172, 174, 175.) Kingsbridge (3025 with Dodbrooke) is a small but important market-town at the head of the Kingsbridge estuary, which is really a tidal creek without a river, in the extreme south of the county. It is one of the chief places in the fertile district called the South Hams. (pp. 16, 50, 54, 118, 122, 193.) Kingswear (841) is a picturesque village opposite Dartmouth, which is reached from it by a steam-ferry. Near the old castle, now modernised, but said to date from John's reign, are the remains of a guard-house from which a chain was stretched across the river to Dartmouth Castle, to guard the estuary. (pp. 74, 191.) Lydford (2812), a small village in the largest parish in England, including a great part of Dartmoor, was once second in importance to Exeter, a Stannary Town, and the seat of the Stannary prison. There is a ruined Norman castle. Lydford Cherry Bridge, near Lynmouth Lynton (1641) and Lynmouth (402) are two villages in the parish of Lynton, on the north coast, the latter on the shore, and the former 450 feet above it, famous for their very beautiful scenery, especially along the river Lyn—where one of the finest spots is at the Watersmeet—and in the wild ravine called the Valley of Rocks. (pp. 16, 57, 82, 127, 150, 221.) Lynmouth Harbour Modbury (1242) is a small market-town 12 miles south-east of Plymouth, once the principal residence of the Champernownes, who made it famous as a musical centre in Tudor times. Moreton Hampstead (1541), a picturesque little town on the eastern border of Dartmoor, with an important cattle-market. (pp. 151, 222.) Mortehoe (788), a small but growing watering-place near Ilfracombe, with an interesting church, and not far from Woollacombe Sands and the dangerous headland of Morte Point. (pp. 60, 173.) Newton Abbot (16,951), in very beautiful country six miles from Torquay, has large markets for cattle and for dairy-produce, and wharves on the Teign for trade in timber and coal. The parish church has fine screens and many monuments. Both Charles I and the Prince of Orange were entertained here at Forde House. (pp. 26, 161, 195, 197, 203, 205.) Ogwell Mill, near Newton Abbot Okehampton (2569), on the north-west edge of Dartmoor, has large markets for cattle and agricultural produce. In the neighbourhood are the very picturesque ruins of a Norman castle and other attractions both for antiquarians and naturalists. (pp. 140, 151, 188, 210.) Ottery St Mary (3495), a market-town south-east of Exeter, in the beautiful valley of the Otter, is famous for its noble church, the finest in Devonshire, and containing many very interesting and beautiful features, and also as being the birth-place of the poet Coleridge. (pp. 170, 171, 173, 176, 178, 195, 200, 221.) Paignton (8385), a rapidly-growing watering-place on Torbay, with a fine situation, a bracing climate, and good sands (pp. 73, 175, 176.) Plymouth (107,636), very finely situated at the mouth of the river Plym, at the head of Plymouth Sound, a parliamentary, municipal, and county borough, the chief seat of trade, commerce, and manufactures in Devonshire, is one of the most famous seaports in the kingdom. Described in Domesday Book as Its spacious docks, Millbay, the graving-dock and the floating basin, can accommodate the largest merchant-ships. In Sutton Pool and the Catwater, in the Hamoaze—the estuary of the Tamar, the Lynher and the Tavy—and at the head of the Sound, in the shelter of the breakwater, a very large number of vessels find safe and convenient anchorage. At its numerous quays, connected with the Great Western Railway, to which company the docks belong, are landed passengers and mails from the United States, from Australia and New Zealand, from the West Coast of Africa and the Cape, from India and the East, as well as merchandise from all parts of the world, especially from France. Next to Newlyn, it is the most important fishing-station on the Plymouth has had a stirring history. In mediaeval times, especially in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, it suffered much from the attacks of the French, who, in 1403, under du Chastel, are said to have burnt 600 houses. Its most important periods are those connected with the defeat of the Armada, with the Civil War, and with the French war that ended with the battle of Waterloo. It was in the Catwater that the English fleet lay at anchor, while Drake and his fellow-captains waited on the Hoe, the famous ridge between Millbay and Sutton Pool, until the Spanish ships had passed. More or less closely blockaded from 1642 to 1646 by the Royal forces, and many times desperately assailed, Plymouth was the one town in the whole west of England that was never lost to the Parliament. In the Napoleonic war the town was the scene of great activity, fitting out many naval expeditions against the French, and receiving many captured ships. Many famous names are associated with the town. It was from here that the Black Prince set out for France and the victory of Agincourt. Here, in 1470, landed the Duke of Clarence, in the hope of enlisting recruits for the Lancastrian army. Here, too, came Margaret herself, with Prince Edward, just before the final overthrow at Tewkesbury. It was at Plymouth that the Princess of Aragon landed, on her way to marry Prince Arthur. From Plymouth sailed Drake and Hawkyns on their filibustering expeditions, and to this port they came back loaded with Spanish gold. Here, too, came Drake, after his voyage round the world. From here Sir Humphrey Gilbert set out on his last voyage, and from here sailed Captain Cook. In the streets and on the quays of Plymouth Benbow and Rodney, Howe and Jervis, Collingwood Plympton (4954), a parish north of Plymouth, comprising two separate villages which grew up round the castle and the priory. Until the fifteenth century the Prior of Plympton controlled the affairs of Plymouth. (pp. 108, 114, 172, 183, 190, 212, 223.) Plymstock (3195), a parish to the east of Plymouth, with large quarries, and with extensive fortifications for the protection of the harbour. Powderham (233), a village on the west side of the estuary of the Exe, where, in a very beautiful park, stands Powderham Castle, chief seat of the Courtenays, Earls of Devon. (pp. 187, 192.) Princetown, in the western part of Dartmoor, is the site of a famous convict prison, originally built, in 1809, for the reception of French prisoners of war. The convicts have brought much land into cultivation, and there are also large granite quarries in the neighbourhood. (pp. 96, 151, 155, 205.) Salcombe (1710), a small port at the mouth of the Kingsbridge estuary, with an exceptionally mild climate, and with other attractions as a watering-place. (pp. 82, 132, 149, 191, 222.) Seaton (1325), a pleasant watering-place near the mouth of the Axe, in the chalk cliffs, close to Dorset. (pp. 66, 80, 114.) Shute (461), a scattered parish, containing the former seat of the De la Poles, has many monuments to them in its church. Shute Manor House Sidmouth (4201), a fashionable watering-place, very pleasantly situated at the mouth of the Sid, between Exmouth and the border of Dorset. Its equable climate is perhaps its chief attraction, but it was an important harbour before its sheltering cliffs were destroyed by landslips. Queen Victoria spent some years of her childhood here. (pp. 68, 80, 130, 163.) South Molton (2848), a very ancient market-town in the south of Exmoor, has corn-mills and a very fine church-tower. (pp. 172, 212.) Tavistock (4728), close to the border of Cornwall, with the ruins of a great abbey, round which the town grew up, was formerly very famous as a mining-centre, and was one of the Stannary Towns. Sir Francis Drake was born here, and the statue of him by Boehm, of which there is a copy on Plymouth Hoe, is one of that sculptor's finest works. (pp. 112, 118, 120, 122, 138, 151, 171, 183, 197, 204, 205, 212, 213.) Teignmouth (7366), an ancient sea-port, a modern and very popular watering-place and a market-town at the mouth of the Teign, has a good harbour, sheltered by the Den, once a mere sandbank, but now a promenade and pleasure-garden. The wooden bridge over the river is one of the longest in England. (pp. 26, 69, 71, 129, 132, 140, 150, 207, 221.) Tiverton (10,382), an old market-town where the Loman joins the Exe—hence the name, Two-ford-town—was formerly noted for its woollen trade, but now for its lace-factory. The church contains many interesting monuments. (pp. 111, 114, 146, 163, 166, 172, 176, 190, 200, 202, 205, 210, 212, 222.) Tiverton Bridge Topsham (2790), once a famous port, is now a market-town and fishing station on the estuary of the Exe. (pp. 22, 130, 132.) Torcross, a small fishing-village and watering-place at the south end of the Slapton Sands. The bay being very exposed, the fishermen train Newfoundland dogs to swim out to boats in rough weather, and take the "painter" ashore. (p. 129.) Torquay (33,625), one of the best-known towns in Devon, is a large and fashionable watering-place, very celebrated for its mild and equable climate, standing on the south slopes of the northern headland of Torbay. From the well-sheltered little harbour the town rises in a semicircle, so protected from rough winds that palms, myrtles, aloes, agaves and other sub-tropical trees flourish here freely in the open air. Near the town is Kent's Cavern, in which have been discovered many most interesting remains of extinct animals and of pre-historic man. (pp. 11, 73, 94, 95, 123, 127, 128, 132, 151, 153, 188, 210, 212.) Torrington (3241), a market-town on the Torridge, south of Bideford, with important fairs and cattle-shows, and with factories of gloves. The storming of Torrington by Fairfax in February, 1646, was the death-blow to the cause of King Charles, and practically ended the Civil War in Devonshire. (pp. 118, 148, 149, 191, 210, 218.) Totnes (4035), one of the oldest municipal boroughs in England, at the head of the navigable portion of the river Dart, is one of the chief market-towns of the South Hams, with a ruined castle and other remains of fortification, some picturesque old houses, a fine church with a specially good stone rood-screen, and a granite obelisk in memory of the Australian explorer Wills, who was born here. (pp. 23, 112, 139, 175, 188, 191, 194, 210, 212.) Westward Ho! a watering-place on Northam Burrows on the shore of Barnstaple Bay, with a good climate, and with many attractions for the marine zoologist, was named in honour of Kingsley's great romance. (p. 62.) Widecombe-in-the-Moor (657), a village in the centre of Dartmoor, with an annual fair for the sale of sheep and ponies, with many very interesting prehistoric remains in the neighbourhood, and a very fine church tower. (pp. 167, 173.) Fig. 1. The Area of the Ancient Geographical County of Devon (1,667,154 acres), compared with that of England and Wales Fig. 2. The Population of Devon (661,314) compared with that of England and Wales (in 1901) Fig. 3. Comparative Density of Population to Square Mile in 1901 Fig. 4. Proportionate Area under Corn Crops in Devon in 1908 Fig. 5. Proportionate Area of chief Cereals in Devon in 1908 Fig. 6. Proportion of Perennial Pasture to other Areas in Devon in 1908 Fig. 7. Proportionate numbers of chief Live-stock in Devon in 1908 Cambridge: PRINTED BY JOHN CLAY, M.A. AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS |
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