The Heart of the White Mountains, Their Legend and Scenery / Tourist's Edition

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FIRST JOURNEY.

FIRST JOURNEY. I. MY TRAVELLING COMPANIONS.

SECOND JOURNEY.

SECOND JOURNEY I. LEGENDS OF THE CRYSTAL HILLS.

THIRD JOURNEY.

THIRD JOURNEY. I. THE PEMIGEWASSET IN JUNE. O child of that

TRAVELLERS IN A STORM, MOUNT WASHINGTON.
TRAVELLERS IN A STORM, MOUNT WASHINGTON.

Tourist’s Edition

———

THE HEART
OF THE
WHITE MOUNTAINS

THEIR LEGEND AND SCENERY

 
 
BY
SAMUEL ADAMS DRAKE
AUTHOR OF “NOOKS AND CORNERS OF THE NEW ENGLAND COAST” “CAPTAIN NELSON” ETC.

 
 
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY
W. HAMILTON GIBSON

Eyes loose: thoughts close

NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS. FRANKLIN SQUARE
1882

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by

HARPER & BROTHERS,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

All rights reserved.

To JOHN G. WHITTIER:

An illustrious and venerated bard, who shares with you the love and honor of his countrymen, tells us that the poets are the best travelling companions. Like Orlando in the forest of Arden, they “hang odes on hawthorns and elegies on thistles.”

In the spirit of that delightful companionship, so graciously announced, it is to you, who have kindled on our aged summits

“The light that never was on sea or land,
The consecration and the poet’s dream.”

that this volume is affectionately dedicated by

THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

THE very flattering reception which the sumptuous holiday edition of “The Heart of the White Mountains” received on its dÉbut has decided the Messrs. Harper to re-issue it in a more convenient and less expensive form, with the addition of a Tourist’s Appendix, and an Index farther adapting it for the use of actual travellers. While all the original features remain intact, these additions serve to render the references in the text intelligible to the uninstructed reader, and at the same time help to make a practical working manual. One or two new maps contribute to the same end.

I take the opportunity thus afforded me to say that, when “The Heart of the White Mountains” was originally prepared, I hoped it might go into the hands of those who, making the journey for the first time, feel the need of something different from the conventional guide-book of the day, and for whom it would also be, during the hours of travel or of leisure among the mountains, to some extent an entertaining as well as a useful companion. So far as author and publisher are concerned, that purpose is now realized.

Finally, I wrote the book because I could not help it.

Samuel Adams Drake.

Melrose, January, 1882.

GENERAL CONTENTS.

FIRST JOURNEY.
PAGE
I. My Travelling Companions 1
II. Incomparable Winnipiseogee: Voyage from Wolfborough to Centre Harbor.—The Indians.—Centre Harbor.—Legendary.—Ascent of Red Hill.—Sunset on the Lake 8
III. Chocorua: Stage Journey to Tamworth.—Scramble for Places.—Valley of the Bear Camp.—Legend of Chocorua.—Sandwich Mountains.—Chocorua Lake.—Ascent of Mount Chocorua 18
IV. Lovewell: Fryeburg.—Lovewell’s Fight.—Desperate Encounter with the Pigwackets.—Death of Paugus 33
V. North Conway: The Antechamber of the Mountains.—White Horse Ledge.—Fording the Saco.—Indian Custom.—Echo Lake.—The Cathedral.—Diana’s Baths.—Artists’ Falls.—The Moats.—Winter Ascent of Mount Kearsarge 39
VI. From Kearsarge to Carrigain: Conway Intervales.—Bartlett Bowlder.—Singular Homicide.—Bartlett.—A Lost Village.—Ascent of Mount Carrigain.—A Shaggy Wilderness 55
VII. Valley of the Saco: Autumnal Foliage.—The Story of Nancy.—Doctor Bemis.—Abel Crawford, the Veteran Guide.—Ethan A. Crawford.—The Mount Crawford Glen.—Giant’s Stairs.—Frankenstein Cliff.—Superb View of Mount Washington.—Mount Willey 66
VIII. Through the Notch: Great Notch of the White Mountains.—The Willey House, and Slide of 1826.—“Colonizing” Voters.—Mount Willard.—Mount Webster, and its Cascades.—Gate of the Notch.—Summit of the Pass 76
IX. Crawford’s: The Elephant’s Head.—Crawford House, and Glen.—Discovery of The Notch.—Ascent of Mount Willard.—Magnificent coup d’oeil 87
X. The Ascent from Crawford’s: The Bridle-path.—Wreck of the Forest.—A Forest of Ice.—Dwarf Trees.—Summit of Mount Clinton.—Caught in a Snow-storm.—The Colonel’s Hat.—Oakes’s Gulf.—The Plateau.—Climbing the Dome.—The Summit at Last 95
SECOND JOURNEY.
I. Legends of the Crystal Hills: Indian Tradition and Legend.—Ascent of Mount Washington by Darby Field.—Indian Name of the White Mountains 113
II. Jackson and the Ellis Valley: Thorn Hill.—Jackson.—Jackson Falls.—Goodrich Falls.—The Ellis.—A Captive Maiden’s Song.—Pretty Indian Legend.—Pinkham Notch, from the Ellis.—A Mountain Homestead.—Artist Life 122
III. The Carter Notch: Valley of the Wildcat.—The Guide.—The Way In.—Summit of The Notch.—Awful Desolation.—The Giant’s Barricade.—Carter Dome.—The Way Out 132
IV. The Pinkham Notch: The Glen House.—Thompson’s Falls.—Emerald Pool.—Crystal Cascade.—Glen Ellis and its Legend 144
V. A Scramble in Tuckerman’s: Tuckerman’s Ravine.—The Path.—Hermit Lake.—“No Thoroughfare.”—Interior of the Ravine.—The Snow Arch 155
VI. In and About Gorham: The Peabody Valley.—Copp’s Farm.—The Imp.—Nathaniel Copp’s Adventure.—Gorham and the Androscoggin.—Mount Hayes.—Mount Madison.—Wholesale Destruction of the Forests.—Logging in the Mountains.—Berlin Falls.—Shelburne and Bethel 165
VII. Ascent by the Carriage-road: Bruin and the Travellers.—The Ledge.—The Great Gulf.—Fatal Accident.—Lost Travellers.—Arrival at the Signal-station.—A Night on the Summit 178
VIII. Mount Washington: View from the Summit.—The Great Gale.—Life on the Summit.—Shadow of Mount Washington.—Bigelow’s Lawn.—The Hunter Monument.—Lake of the Clouds.—The Mountain Butterfly 189
THIRD JOURNEY.
I. The Pemigewasset in June: Plymouth.—Death of Hawthorne.—John Stark, the Hunter.—Livermore Fall.—Trout and Salmon Breeding.—Franconia Mountains from West Campton.—Settlement of Campton.—Valley of Mad River.—Tripyramid Mountain.—Waterville and its Surroundings 209
II. The Franconia Pass: The Flume House.—The Pool.—The Flume.—Ascent of Mount Pemigewasset.—The Basin.—Mount Cannon.—Profile Lake.—Old Man of the Mountain.—Summit of the Pass 224
III. The King of Franconia: Profile House and Glen.—Eagle Cliff.—Echo Lake.—Ascent of Mount Lafayette.—The Lakes.—Singular Atmospheric Effects 237
IV. Franconia, and the Neighborhood: The Roadside Spring.—Franconia Iron Works and Vicinity.—Sugar Hill 248
V. The Connecticut Ox-Bow: Newbury and Haverhill 256
VI. The Sack of St. Francis De Sales: Robert Rogers, the Ranger.—Destruction of the Abenaqui Village.—Retreat and Pursuit of the Rangers.—Legend of the Silver Image 259
VII. Moosehillock: Ascent of the Mountain from Warren.—View from the Summit 267
VIII. Bethlehem: Bethlehem Street.—Sudden Rise of a Mountain Resort.—The Environs.—Maplewood and the Great Range.—The Place of Sunsets.—The “Hermit.”—The Soldier turned Peddler 276
IX. Jefferson, and the Valley of Israel’s River: Jefferson Hill.—Starr King and Cherry Mountains.—The Great Chain Again.—Thomas Starr King.—Ethan Crawford’s.—Ravine of the Cascades.—Randolph Hill and King’s Ravine.—The Cherry Mountain Road.—Fabyan’s.—Captain Rosebrook 291
X. The Great Northern Peaks: The Mountain Railway.—An Evening Ascension.—Moonlight on the Summit.—Sunrise.—A March to Mount Adams.—The Great Gulf of the Five Mountains.—The Castellated Ridge.—Peak of Mount Adams.—Conclusion 304
  TOURIST’S APPENDIX. 318
  INDEX 335
  FOOTNOTES

Illustrations.

These Illustrations, excepting those marked *, were designed by W. Hamilton Gibson.

SUBJECT. ENGRAVER. PAGE.
Travellers in a Storm, Mount Washington R. Hoskin Frontispiece
Winnipiseogee, From Red Hill J. Tinkey 15
*“Alone With All Those Men! V. Bernstrom 20
        Designed by W. A. Rogers.
Passaconnaway, From the Bear-camp River Smithwick and French 24
Chocorua R. Hoskin 26
Lovewell’s Pond J. P. Davis 34
Mount Washington, From the Saco F. S. King 40
The Ledges, North Conway E. Held 41
Echo Lake, North Conway G. J. Buechner 45
Kearsarge in Winter R. Hoskin 48
*Sliding Down Kearsarge H. Deis 53
        Designed by W. A. Rogers.
Conway Meadows W. H. Morse 56
Bartlett Bowlder E. Held 58
*Nancy in the Snow J. P. Davis 68
        Designed by Sol Eytinge.
*Abel Crawford (Portrait) Thos. Johnson 70
Storm on Mount Willey J. Linton 75
Mount Willard, From Willey Brook G. Smith 78
The Cascades, Mount Webster F. S. King 85
Elephant’s Head, Winter H. Wolf 88
Looking Down the Notch C. Mayer 91
Giant’s Stairs, From Thorn Mountain J. Hellawell 124
Moat Mountain, From Jackson Falls F. Pettit 126
The Carter Notch Smithwick and French 134
The Emerald Pool W. H. Morse 147
The Crystal Cascade H. Wolf 149
The Path, Tuckerman’s Ravine R. Hoskin 157
Hermit Lake W. J. Dana 160
Snow Arch, Tuckerman’s Ravine N. Orr 163
The Imp J. Tinkey 166
The Androscoggin at Shelburne G. Smith 176
Mount Adams and the Great Gulf W. H. Morse 182
Winter Storm on the Summit R. Schelling 187
*The Tornado Forcing an Entrance J. Tinkey 194
        Designed by Thure de Thulstrup
Lake of the Clouds J. P. Davis 200
On the Profile Road Smithwick and French 213
Welch Mountain, From Mad River J. Hellawell 217
Black and Tripyramid Mountains J. S. Harley 220
Franconia Notch, From Thornton F. S. King 222
A Glimpse of the Pool C. Mayer 225
The Flume, Franconia Notch J. P. Davis 227
The Basin G. J. Buechner 230
*The Old Man of the Mountain A. Measom 234
        Designed by Granville Perkins.
*Eagle Cliff and the Echo House P. Annin 238
        Designed by Granville Perkins.
Echo Lake, Franconia G. J. Buechner 240
Mount Cannon, From The Bridle-path, Lafayette R. Schelling 242
Cloud Effects On Mount Lafayette R. Hoskin 245
*Franconia Iron Works And Notch C. Mayer 248
        Designed by Granville Perkins.
*The Roadside Spring   250
        Designed by W. A . Rogers.
*Robert Rogers (PORTRAIT) C. Mayer 260
*The Buck-board Wagon   274
        Designed by W. A. Rogers.
Mount Lafayette, From Bethlehem J. Tinkey 280
The Northern Peaks, From Jefferson Smithwick and French 292
Mount Washington, From Fabyan’s E. Held 301
*Mountain Railway-station in Staging Times T. Johnson 305
        Designed by Granville Perkins.
Ascent by the Railway J. Hellawell 309
The Castellated Ridge, Mount Jefferson J. Tinkey 315
Map of the White Mountains (East Side)   xv
      “              “   (Central and Northern Section)   111
      “              “   (West Side)   207

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