AlenÇon (Point d’).—Fine needlepoint lace with the ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net effect. Is usually worked with horsehair on the edges to give firmness to the cordonnet. Called after the city in France where it is made.

Allover.—Name for all wide laces used for flouncing, yokes, and entire waists. Usually the lace is over eighteen inches in width.

American Laces.—A general term formerly used to distinguish lace made in this country, the development of the industry having now rendered the term nearly obsolete.

Angleterre (Point d’).—Fine Brussels pillow lace, distinguished by a rib of raised and plaited threads worked in the lace. Shown in floral, ornithological, and geometrical designs.

Antique.—Hand-made pillow lace of heavy linen thread in a large, open, rectangular knotted mesh. Used for curtains, bed sets, draperies.

Antwerp.—Bobbin lace, resembling early AlenÇon. Shows a “pot”—that is, a vase or basket effect—in the design.

AppliquÉ.—Any lace in which the body and the design are made separately. The body is usually silk and the design cotton or linen.

AppliquÉ Brussels.—Name sometimes given to Brussels appliquÉ laces.

Arabe (Point d’).—Coarse bobbin lace made in Belgium and France as well as Arabia. Shows a large, bold pattern, cable edged, and is almost invariably in a deep Écru tone. Used for curtains and draperies.

Arabian.—Same as above.

Argentine.—Similar to AlenÇon, the mesh being a trifle larger.

Arras.—Very strong, inexpensive, white bobbin lace, of simple pattern, somewhat resembling Mechlin. Distinguished by its light, single thread ground. Named after the city in France where it is made.

Aurillac.—Somewhat resembles Angleterre. Bobbin lace made in Aurillac, France.

Auvergne.—Any kind of bobbin lace made in Auvergne, France. Different makes and patterns.

Ave Maria.—A narrow edging lace.

Baby Lace.—Light and simple edging lace made in England. Battenberg.—Same as Renaissance. Designs confined to flower patterns.

Bayeux.—Bobbin lace, usually an imitation of Spanish point. Also a black, rich lace made in large pieces for shawls, head scarfs, etc.

Binche.—Fine pillow lace, without cordonnet. Ground resembles a spider-web with small dots. Made in Binche, Belgium.

Bisette.—Coarse, narrow French peasant lace in simple designs. Name often applied to cheap bordering laces.

Blonde.—So called, being originally a bobbin lace made of unbleached silk, though now shown in black, white, and colors. Made with two different sizes of thread; fine thread for the ground, coarse for the design. Usually takes some floral form. Very lustrous.

Bobbin Lace.—Imitation of pillow lace. Made in England and France.

Bobbinet.—The same.

Bone Lace.—An obsolete term once given to Honiton bobbin lace.

Bone Point Lace.—Applied to laces having no regular ground or mesh, such as Renaissance.

Border Lace.—Practically synonymous with edging.

Bourdon.—A machine lace made of both silk and cotton. Show scroll-like patterns cable-edged on a regular mesh. Usually dyed black, but sometimes bleached. The outline is of a heavy lustrous thread. Used chiefly for dress trimming and millinery.

Brettone.—Cheap narrow edging.

Bride Lace.—Lace with the pattern connected with brides. Same as bone point lace.

Brides.—Slender threads connecting different parts of a pattern.

Brussels Net.—Plain net made originally in Brussels, but now produced in all lace manufacturing countries.

Brussels Pillow.—Fine pillow lace with the patterns joined together by little loops on their edges.

Brussels Point.—Shows an open pattern, made partly in open, partly in closed, stitch, giving the appearance of shading.

Carrickmacross.—Tiny Irish cambric drawn work, appliquÉ on net.

Cartisane.—Guipure or passementerie made with thin silk or gilt-covered strips of parchment. Chantilly.—Pillow lace very similar to blonde. Comes from Chantilly, France. Made in both silk and cotton and usually seen in black. Non-lustrous, and looks as if made from black linen thread.

Chiffon Lace.—Chiffon embroidered in twist silk.

Cluny.—Coarse-thread bobbin lace, made in both linen and cotton. Shows a close-stitch pattern darned on an open ground. Used for dress trimmings and the manufacture of curtains.

Cork Lace.—A sweeping term used to designate all laces of Irish make.

Cotton Lace.—All lace made of cotton.

Craponne.—Cheap, stout thread furniture guipure.

Crochet Lace.—Any point lace made with the crochet hook.

Darned Lace.—A comprehensive term taking in all net effects with the pattern applied in needlework.

Devonshire Lace.—Lace made in this part of England, and especially Honiton imitation.

Dieppe.—Fine needlepoint lace made in Dieppe, France. Resembles Valenciennes. Made with a regular ground of squares of small meshes alternating with open squares upon which the pattern is applied in close stitch.

Duchesse.—Pillow lace with fine net ground with the patterns in raised work, volants, and the like.

Dutch Lace.—Practically a coarse Valenciennes.

English Point.—See Angleterre.

Escurial.—Heavy silk lace made in imitation of Rose point. Patterns outlined with cable edge.

Esprit (Point d’).—Dotted bobbinet with the dots either singly or in clusters.

Filet Lace.—Any lace made with a square mesh net.

Flemish Point.—Needlepoint lace made in Flanders.

Footing.—Simple insertion of Brussels net from one to three inches in width.

Galloon.—Irregular band with a fancy edge. Entire piece often in zigzag or scallop form.

Gaze (Point de).—Flemish point lace resembling point d’AlenÇon, though much softer, being without horsehair.

GÊne (Point de).—Openwork embroidery made on a wool ground which is afterwards eaten away by acid. Genoa.—Heavy lace made of aloe fiber. Another name for macramÉ.

Gimp.—See Guipure.

Gold Lace.—Gimp or braid covered with gold or imitation gold thread.

Grammont.—White pillow lace used for shawls and the like. Black silk lace nearly resembling blonde.

Guipure.—Fancy trimming of wire cord whipped round with silk or cotton threads, and the small patterns stitched together.

Guipure d’Art.—Linen net upon which raised intersecting patterns are worked.

Guipure de Flanders.—A pillow lace made separately, having flowers connected by bars and brides.

Hand Embroidered.—Heavy point lace, usually of Plauen manufacture, with fancy floral or other figures embroidered on the design.

Honiton.—English bobbin lace, famed for the beauty of its designs. Named for the city where it was first manufactured. Now made in Belgium, Holland, and France. Sprays sometimes made separately, and then worked on a net—Honiton appliquÉ.

Honiton Braid.—Narrow machine-made braid of ornamental oval figures connected by narrow bars. Used for collars, handkerchiefs, and tidies.

Honiton Guipure.—Large flower-pattern lace on very open ground, the sprays held together with brides or bars.

Imitation Lace.—A term used to designate any machine-made lace in contrast with hand-made.

Insertion.—Any narrow lace with a plain edge on either side that admits of its being inserted in a fabric.

Irish Crochet.—Heavy hand-made lace, remarkable for the beauty and distinctness of its patterns, and the startling whiteness of the linen thread used in its manufacture.

Irish Lace.—A general term used to designate all lace made by the Irish peasantry.

Irish Point.—Hybrid combination of appliquÉ, cut work, and embroidery on net with elaborate needle stitching in the higher grades.

Irish Trimming.—Simple, woven lace, used on white wear.

Knotted Lace.—Frequently referred to as knotting. A fancy weave of twisted and knotted threads in close imitation of some old hand laces. Lille (Also Lile).—French lace named after the town where it is made. Somewhat resembles Mechlin. Shows a very clear, light ground and is the most beautiful of all simple thread laces.

Limerick Lace.—A form of embroidery on net or muslin.

Luxeuil.—A general term for hand-made laces of Luxeuil, France. More specifically those of a stout, heavy nature. Used for tidies, curtains, draperies.

MacramÉ.—Knotted hand-made lace, made of a very heavy cord. Shown principally in geometrical designs. Very popular in deep Écru.

Maline.—Fine silk net. Sometimes also applied to Mechlin lace with a diamond mesh.

Maltese.—Coarse machine-made cotton lace, resembling torchon. Has no regular ground, the patterns being usually connected with heavy stitch work.

Mechlin.—Light pillow lace with the pattern outlined by a fine but very distinct thread or cord. Real Mechlin generally has the ground pattern woven together, the latter running largely to flowers, buds, etc.

Medallion.—Single, detached pattern.

Medici.—Special kind of torchon edging, with one edge scalloped.

MÉlange.—Hand-made silk pillow lace, showing a combination of conventional Chantilly with Spanish designs.

Mignonette.—Light bobbin lace, made in narrow strips. Resembles tulle.

Miracourt.—Sprig effects of bobbin-lace applied on net ground.

Mexican Drawnwork.—Little round medallions either single or in strips, the threads drawn to form a cartwheel. Mexican and Teneriffe drawnwork are practically the same. Machine imitations made in Nottingham, Calais, and St. Gall.

Motif.—See Medallion.

Nanduly.—South American fiber-lace, made by needle in small squares, which are afterward joined together. Design very beautiful and of remarkable durability.

Needlepoint Lace.—See Point Lace.

Normandy Lace.—See Valenciennes. Nottingham.—A general term including all the machine-made laces turned out in that great lace-producing center of England.

Oriental Lace.—Really an embroidery, being produced on the Schiffli machine, the pattern being then either cut or eaten out. Also applied to point d’Arabe and certain filet effects.

Oyah Lace.—A crocheted guipure shown in ornate patterns.

Passementerie.—A decorative edging or trimming, especially gimp or braid.

Picots.—Infinitesimal loops on brides and other strands.

Pillow Lace (Bobbin Lace).—Made on a pillow with bobbins and pins. Machine-made imitations retain the name.

Plauen.—Applied to all laces emanating from that section of Saxony and including imitations of nearly all point laces, which are embroidered on a wool ground, this being afterward dissolved in acid and the cotton or silk design left intact.

Point de Gaze.—Fine gauze-like needle-lace.

Point d’Irelande.—Coarse machine lace, made in imitation of real Venetian point.

Point de Milan.—A variety of guipure, having a ground of small meshes, and a pattern consisting of bold, flowing scroll devices.

Point de Paris.—A variety of cheap machine lace, cotton, of simple design.

Point Kant.—Flemish pillow lace, with a net ground and the design running largely to “pot” effects—pot lace.

Point Lace.—Lace made by hand with needle and single thread. Needlepoint the same. Point d’AlenÇon, point de Venise, etc., are all variations of point lace and will be found classified under their initials.

Point Plat.—Point lace without raised design.

Renaissance.—Modern lace, made of narrow tape or braid formed into patterns, held together by brides, the brides forming subsidiary designs. Battenberg is the same thing.

RepoussÉ.—Applied to the design, being a pattern that has the effect of being stamped in.

Rococo.—Italian lace, bearing the rococo design.

Rose Point.—See Venetian point.

Seaming Lace.—Narrow, openwork insertion. Seville.—Variety of torchon.

Spanish Lace.—A comprehensive term. Convent-made, needlepoint lace. Cut drawnwork effects, also convent-made. Needlepoint lace in large squares. Black silk lace in floral designs.

Spanish Point.—Ancient embroidery of gold, silver, and silk passementerie.

Swiss Lace.—Swiss embroidered net in imitation of Brussels.

Tambour.—Variety of Limerick.

Tape Lace.—Hand-made needle lace, similar to Renaissance.

Thread Lace.—Made of linen thread, as distinguished from cotton and silk laces.

Torchon.—Coarse, open bobbin lace of stout but loosely twisted thread in very simple patterns. Much seen in imitations, usually in narrow widths.

Van Dyke Points.—Applied to laces with a border made in large points.

Valenciennes.—Commonly called Val. Bobbin lace, seen mostly in cheap insertions and in the form of narrow edgings.

Venetian Point.—Point de Venise. Needlepoint lace in floral pattern with the designs very close together and connected by brides ornamented with picots.

Wood Fiber.—Applied to all laces made of wood silk.

Yak.—Machine-made worsted lace. Used for trimming for shawls, petticoats, and undergarments.

Youghal.—Needlepoint lace of coarse thread, made exclusively in Ireland.

Ypres.—Bobbin lace, somewhat coarser than Val.