Paragraph
Scope	24
Allocation of maintenance	25

24. SCOPE.

a. The scope of maintenance and repair by the crew and other units of the using arms is determined by the availability of suitable tools, availability of necessary parts, capabilities of the mechanics, time available, and the tactical situation. All of these are variable and no exact system of procedure can be prescribed.

25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE.

a. Indicated below are the maintenance duties for which tools and parts have been provided for the using arm and maintenance personnel. Replacements and repairs which are the responsibility of ordnance maintenance personnel may be performed by using arm personnel when circumstances permit, within the discretion of the commander concerned. Echelons and words as used in this list of maintenance allocations are defined as follows:

NOTES: (1) Operations allocated will normally be performed in the echelon indicated by X.
(2) Operations allocated to the third echelon as indicated by E may be performed by these units in emergencies only.
(3) Operations allocated to the fourth echelon by E are normally fifth echelon operations. They will not be performed by the fourth echelon, unless the unit is expressly authorized to do so by the chief of the service concerned.

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a. Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are a preventive maintenance function of the using arms, and are the responsibility of commanders of operating organizations.

(1) Frequency. The frequencies of the preventive maintenance services outlined herein are considered a minimum requirement for normal operation of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions such as extreme temperatures, and dusty or sandy terrain, it may be necessary to perform certain maintenance services more frequently.

(2) First Echelon Participation. The drivers should accompany their vehicles and assist the mechanics while periodic second echelon preventive maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily the driver should present the vehicle for a scheduled preventive maintenance service in a reasonably clean condition; that is, it should be dry, and not caked with mud or grease to such an extent that inspection and servicing will be seriously hampered. However, the vehicle should not be washed or wiped thoroughly clean, since certain types of defects, such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts or assemblies are more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or dusty.

(3) If instructions other than those contained in the general procedures in paragraph (4) or the specific procedures in paragraph (5) which follow, are required for the correct performance of a preventive maintenance service, or for correction of a deficiency, other sections of the vehicle operator’s manual pertaining to the item involved, or a designated individual in authority, should be consulted.

(4) General Procedures. These general procedures are basic instructions which are to be followed when performing the services on the items listed in the specific procedures. The second echelon personnel must be thoroughly trained in these procedures so that they will apply them automatically.

(a) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to correct deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean, correctly installed, properly lubricated, and adjusted.

(b) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the lubricant should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the seal.

(c) The general inspection of each item applies also to any supporting member or connection, and usually includes a check to see whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or excessively worn. The mechanics must be thoroughly trained in the following explanations of these terms:

1. The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual inspection to determine whether or not the unit is damaged beyond safe or serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.

2. The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” is usually an external visual inspection to see whether or not it is in its normal assembled position in the vehicle.

3. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually an external visual examination, a hand-feel, or a pry-bar check for looseness; such an inspection should include any brackets, lock washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.

4. “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn, close to or beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not replaced before the next scheduled inspection.

(d) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item numbers in the columns which show the interval at which the services are to be performed, and show that the parts, or assemblies, are to receive certain mandatory services. For example, an item number in one or both columns opposite a Tighten procedure, means that the actual tightening of the object must be performed. The special services include:

1. Adjust. Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with the pertinent section of the vehicle operator’s manual, special bulletins, or other current directives.

2. Clean. Clean units of the vehicle with dry-cleaning solvent to remove excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After the parts are cleaned, rinse them in clean dry-cleaning solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Take care to keep the parts clean until reassembled, and be certain to keep dry-cleaning solvent away from rubber or other material which it will damage. Clean the protective grease coating from new parts, since this material is not a good lubricant.

3. Special lubrication. This applies both to lubrication operations that do not appear on the vehicle Lubrication Guide, and to items that do appear on such guides, but should be performed in connection with the maintenance operations, if parts have to be disassembled for inspection or service.

4. Serve. This usually consists of performing special operations, such as replenishing battery water, and draining and refilling units with oil.

5. Tighten. All tightening operations should be performed with sufficient wrench-torque (force on the wrench handle) to tighten the nut according to good mechanical practice. Use torque-indicating wrench where specified. Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads, or cause distortion. Tightening will always be understood to include the correct installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins provided to secure the tightening.

(e) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete preventive maintenance procedures at one time, these can sometimes be handled in sections, planning to complete all operations within the task if possible. All available time at halts and in bivouac areas must be utilized, if necessary, to assure that maintenance operations are completed. When limited by the tactical situation, items with special services in the columns should be given first consideration.

(f) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that follow are identical with those outlined on W.D. AGO Form No. 463, which is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Motorcycles. Certain items on the work sheet that do not apply to this vehicle are not included in the procedures in this manual. In general, the numerical sequence of items on the work sheet is followed in the manual procedures, but in some instances there is deviation for conservation of the mechanic’s time and effort.

(5) Specific Procedures. The procedures for performing each item in the 1,000-mile maintenance procedures are described in the following chart. Each page of the chart has a column at its left edge corresponding to the 1,000-mile maintenance.

ROAD TEST

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a. Refer to SNL–N 19 for common hand tools available to second echelon.

b. Refer to list given below for all special tools available to second echelon.

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a. Trouble shooting for the entire vehicle is given in this section. The engine trouble shooting paragraph traces trouble to a system affecting engine performance: for example, fuel or ignition. To trace trouble to one or more defective components of a system, it is necessary to refer to the pertinent paragraph of this section when the defective system or systems have been located in the engine trouble shooting paragraph.

b. The material given in this section applies to the operation of the vehicle under normal conditions. If extreme conditions of temperature occur, it is assumed the operator of the vehicle has prepared his vehicle for use for the conditions encountered.

29. ENGINE.

a. Instruction. This subparagraph traces troubles to a system affecting engine performance. Step b below gives simple engine tests to determine the mechanical condition of the engine. References in step b refer to step c for engine mechanical troubles, or to pertinent paragraphs in this section for system troubles, or when a test indicates a special unit is faulty, to the pertinent paragraph in this manual.

(1) Engine Does Not Turn Over When Foot Starter Is Operated.

(a) Clutch slipping. Check adjustment (par. 48).

(b) Sheared engine sprocket key. Replace (par. 65).

(c) Starter clutch stuck by congealed oil. Free starter clutch. Use proper grade of oil.

(d) Starter clutch worn. Refer to maintenance personnel.

(e) Engine locked (seized). Refer to organization mechanic.

(2) Engine Turns Over When Cranked but Does Not Start.

(a) Fuel supply valve closed. Open valve.

(b) Empty fuel tank. Fill tank.

(c) Fuel system faulty. Refer to paragraph 31.

(d) Ignition system faulty. Refer to paragraph 32.

(e) Battery weak or dead. Refer to paragraph 34.

(f) Insufficient compression. Refer to step b, below.

(3) Weak Compression. Refer to step b below for test.

(a) Improper valve tappet adjustment. Adjust (par. 43).

(b) Valves sticking. Use dry-cleaning solvent to free valve stems in guides.

(c) Faulty lubrication. Refer to paragraph 20.

(d) Loose cylinder head bolts and/or faulty gasket. Tighten head bolts or replace gasket (par. 41).

(4) Overheating.

(a) Faulty fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(b) Dirt on cylinders. Clean fins on cylinder, especially the fins on cylinder head.

(c) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30.

(d) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(e) Idling engine without having vehicle in motion. Do not idle engine longer than 1 minute.

(f) Valve tappet adjustment incorrect. Refer to step b (1) below for test, to paragraph 43 for adjustment.

(g) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

(h) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to organization mechanic.

(5) Lack of Power.

(a) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(b) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(c) Overheating. Refer to step (4) above.

(d) Defective lubricating system. Refer to paragraph 30.

(e) Poor compression. Refer to step (3) above.

(f) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

(g) Brakes dragging. Adjust (pars. 96 and 97).

(6) Popping and Spitting Through Carburetor.

(a) Water in fuel. Water may be present in fuel tank and carburetor. Drain and refill fuel tank and carburetor bowl.

(b) Incorrect valve tappet adjustment or sticky valves. Test (step b (1) below). Adjust tappets (par. 43). (c) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(d) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(e) Weak and/or broken valve springs. Refer to higher authority.

(7) Spark Knock.

(a) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(b) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to step b (2) below.

(c) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(d) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30.

(8) Pounding and Excessive Metallic Noise.

(a) Front drive chain too loose. Refer to paragraph 36.

(b) Engine sprocket loose on shaft.

(c) Excessively loose valve tappets. Adjust (par. 43).

(d) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten.

(e) Transmission mounting stud nuts loose. Tighten (par. 60).

(f) Spark timing incorrect. Adjust.

(g) Internal parts of engine worn or broken. Notify organization mechanic.

b. Tests to Determine Mechanical Condition of Engine.

(1) Rings and Valves. This is a simple compression test. If possible, make this test with the engine warm. Ignition switch must be off. Crank engine slowly, placing entire weight of body on starter crank. Engine compression should sustain the weight of an average size rider several seconds before crank passes through complete range of its travel. If engine offers little resistance to starter crank in testing either or both cylinders, it is an indication that compression is not adequate in one or both cylinders. No clearance or insufficient clearance at valve tappets; valves sticking in guides; valves seating poorly; cylinder heads leaking; spark plugs loose in heads; piston rings badly worn and/or broken; cylinder and pistons badly worn, or lack of lubrication could cause the above condition. Make external checks first: See that oil is in tank, that spark plugs are tight, and examine around cylinder heads for signs of leaking oil deposits. In extremely cold weather, resistance to the starter crank is increased by “stiff” oil in engine and transmission. Therefore, do not mistake this condition to indicate actual engine compression.

(2) Abnormal Engine Noise. Owing to constructional design of the motorcycle, correct adjustment of the several units and components is necessary for smooth and normally quiet engine operation. Many motorcycles have been “deadlined” and engines exchanged because simple tune-up service and correct adjustment of components have been neglected. Rough, jerky, and noisy engine action at low speed riding is usually caused by excessively loose front and rear drive chains, or by a transmission being loose in its frame mounting. Fast idling of engine with the front drive chain too loose, may give the false impression that the engine bearings and pistons need replacement service. Engine sprocket loose on its shaft will cause a pounding noise similar to that of badly worn engine bearings. If front drive chain is too tight, or engine sprocket and chain are badly worn, a grinding noise results, seeming to come from the engine. Excessively loose valve tappets will cause abnormal metallic noise in the valve timing gear train and engine crankcase. Spark advanced too far will cause rough engine performance at low speeds as well as spark knock, pounding, and overheating. Engine pounding and rough operation with consequent noise, result from loose mounting bolts. Generator mounted to give insufficient gear-tooth clearance will cause “howl” in gear case.

30. ENGINE LUBRICATING SYSTEM.

a. Action of the oil feed pump is indicated by the red signal light located in right side of instrument panel. (Red signal light is normally grounded by the oil pressure switch. When oil pump pressure is built up several pounds, diaphragm opens the signal light circuit.) Action of the scavenger (oil return) pump is indicated (engine running) by oil dripping from ¹/₈–inch hole in oil return tube (large tube) inside oil tank, just back of oil gage rod (dip stick) tube. Since the oil feed pump and scavenger pump are separate units, operated individually, it is possible (due to faulty unit) for either to function alone, thus affecting engine oil pressure and return of oil to the tank. Action of the vent pipe (small pipe) located within the oil tank is of a “breather” nature; its function not being indicated in any manner. Before attempting to diagnose trouble in engine lubricating system, rider must be familiar with and understand indications by instrument panel signal lights (par. 7 f).

b. Red Signal Light Fails to Burn When Ignition and Light Switch is Turned On.

(1) Check other lights to determine if battery is “up” and that switch and wiring connections between battery and switch are in good order. See that wire connection is secure and screw is tight on oil pressure switch terminal. Failure of light to burn after these checks indicates that either the lamp is burned out or oil pressure switch is faulty.

(2) Test to eliminate the oil pressure switch by removing wire from switch terminal; ground wire on switch body and note if red light burns with ignition and light switch in “ON” position. If light burns, it indicates that oil pressure switch is faulty, and must be replaced. If light does not burn in making this test, it indicates that lamp is burned out. Remove panel cover (par. 119) and replace lamp.

c. Red Signal Light Continues to Burn After Engine Is Operated Above Idling Speeds.

(1) Check oil supply in tank. If light fails to go out after engine is warm, or after 1 minute of operation, further checks must be made to locate trouble, as indication points to faulty engine lubrication system, or fault in signal circuit. Eliminate the signal system first.

(2) Test oil pressure signal switch to panel signal light circuit. Remove wire from oil pressure switch terminal by turning on ignition and light switch and observing red signal light. If light burns, short circuit in wiring exists. If light does not burn, it indicates normal condition, leaving oil pressure switch of the signal circuit to be tested.

(3) Install new oil pressure switch and start engine. If red signal light goes out after engine is operated above idling speeds, it indicates trouble in oil pressure signal switch. If red signal light continues to burn, it indicates trouble in oil feed pump. Replace pump (par. 44).

d. Excessive Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Oil Spray Issues from Gear Case Breather Outlet. This is an indication that the scavenger pump is not draining engine crankcase and returning oil to tank. With engine running at idle speed, examine oil return in tank. Remove tank oil cap, and with a small flashlight (tactical situation permitting), observe whether or not oil is dripping from ¹/₈–inch hole in oil return tube. Hole is on under side of tube and is located just back of oil gage rod tube. If observation is poor, place finger over hole and feel for pulsation of oil pressure. If oil does not return to tank, scavenger pump is faulty. Should the crankcase breather valve be incorrectly timed, smoke will issue from the exhaust, but not as noticeably as when scavenger pump is not working. Refer to step e below for this condition.

e. Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Excessive Oil Condition Exists Around Cylinder Exhaust Ports (where exhaust pipes enter cylinders). Engine scavenger pump and crankcase breather valve are one unit, operated by worm gear located behind engine shaft pinion gear. Although scavenger pump is not “timed,” the breather valve sleeve which drives it must be timed to balance the engine lubricating system. If for any reason the scavenger pump unit is removed from engine base, the breather valve must be retimed (within the gear case) when pump assembly is replaced. Incorrectly timed breather valve will force oil past piston rings, causing some smoke, besides forcing oil out through exhaust ports, causing excessive oily condition around exhaust pipes where they enter cylinder ports.

31. FUEL SYSTEM.

a. Many symptoms which might be attributed to the air-fuel system are, in reality, due to faulty ignition. Before attempting any but the obviously required adjustments, check the ignition system thoroughly. Gasoline tank supply valve is a dual purpose valve, and its operation is explained in paragraph 5 b.

b. Shut off gasoline supply valve. Disconnect fuel line at strainer, open valve, and observe free flow of fuel from pipe. If line is plugged, remove, clean out, and replace.

c. Remove, disassemble, clean, and install fuel strainer (par. 72).

d. Hard Starting, Spitting, and Misfiring Caused by Water in Fuel. Remove drain screw from carburetor bowl, drain bowl, and replace screw. Take care not to cross drain screw threads when replacing. If there is still evidence of water, dirt, or other foreign matter after bowl is drained, replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71). Remove air cleaner oil cup and inspect for evidence of water in oil. Drain, clean, refill to correct level mark, and replace cup. Should above procedure fail to eliminate trouble, drain fuel tank by removing drain plug located under tank in forward position. Replace drain plug and refill tank with fuel.

e. Hard Starting, or Missing at Idling and Low Speeds. Carburetor low speed circuit in need of adjustment (par. 68). Carburetor high speed circuit is controlled by a fixed jet.

f. Impossible to Obtain Satisfactory Carburetor Adjustment: Lean Spot Between Idling and Up to 30 Miles per Hour Speeds. Carburetors in service for some time become dirty and crust forms in the throttle barrel, making satisfactory low speed adjustment difficult, if not impossible. Replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).

g. Fuel Leaking from Carburetor. Evidence of dirt in float valve, incorrect float level, or faulty float. Replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).

h. Difficult Starting, Fuel Mixture Too Rich. Air cleaner oil cup overfilled, or cleaner elements exceptionally dirty, choking off adequate air supply to carburetor. Check the oil cup level. If oil cup level is correct, remove, clean, and install cleaner elements (par. 76).

32. IGNITION SYSTEM.

a. When checking ignition system for trouble, make the most obvious and simple checks first. For example: Turn on ignition and light switch, observe lights to ascertain battery current supply; then check to see that current is reaching spark coil, circuit breaker, etc. Faulty spark plugs are responsible for the great majority of engine ignition troubles. There is no service for spark plugs other than sandblast cleaning and correct adjustment of electrodes. Questionable spark plugs must be replaced (par. 83).

b. Remedy all poor connections in ignition wiring system ( fig. 48).

c. Remove circuit breaker cover, operate engine with starter pedal, and observe opening and closing of circuit breaker points. Correct point gap when breaker lever fiber is on highest point of cam is 0.022 inch. For adjustment refer to paragraph 84.

d. Testing for High Tension Spark. Spark at plug gaps depends upon condition and operation of circuit breaker points, condition of condenser, and condition of spark coil and high-tension cables. Testing the ignition system is best done by means of elimination, testing each unit by replacement until trouble is located; then replacing serviceable units which were removed.

(1) Remove spark plug cable terminal from either plug, leaving other cable and plug connected (to effect ground return of high-tension current); turn engine until circuit breaker points are closed; turn ignition and light switch on; hold high tension cable terminal ¼ inch from cylinder; open and close circuit breaker points with finger and observe spark jump at gap. If spark jumps gap, it indicates ignition primary and secondary circuits are complete.

(2) No spark at high-tension gap calls for testing of primary and secondary circuits. Turn engine until breaker points are held open; hold cable end ¼ inch from cylinder; turn ignition switch on and with the bit of a screwdriver, make a good ground connection between breaker movable (lever) point, and the ground. If a good spark is obtained at high-tension cable terminal gap when ground connection made by screwdriver is broken, clean or replace faulty breaker points (par. 84).

(3) If circuit breaker points are in good condition, but no spark (or a very weak spark) occurs at high-tension gap, replace condenser (par. 85) and repeat test under step (1) above. If replacement of condenser does not remedy trouble, replace spark coil (par. 89).

(4) If tests made under steps d (1), (2), and (3) above show ignition system to be in good order (no units having been replaced), and ignition trouble still exists, it means that breaker points, condenser, and spark coil must be replaced with new units and engine road test made with each replacement until trouble has been located and remedied.

e. Ignition System Tests Satisfactory but Engine Starts Hard, Overheats or Misses. Clearly an indication that spark plugs are faulty. Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast, regap points between 0.028 inch to 0.030 inch and reinstall. Replace defective plugs with new ones of correct (No. 2) heat range (par. 83).

f. Engine Misses After Warm-up, or When Quite Hot. Replacement of spark plugs should remedy this trouble. If it does not, then either the condenser or spark coil is at fault. Replace condenser first (par. 85). If new condenser fails to correct trouble, replace spark coil (par. 89).

33. GENERATING SYSTEM.

a. Panel Green Signal Light Continues to Burn Above 20 Miles per Hour. Correct faulty wiring and connections between battery and generator. Refer to figure 55. Inspect condition of relay and, if necessary, replace (par. 95). Inspect brushes and commutator of generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. 91). If brushes are sticking in holders or badly worn, replace generator (pars. 93 and 94).

b. Generator Output Fails to Keep Battery Charged Although Green Signal Light Behavior Is Satisfactory. Test battery: if it will not hold charge, or is defective, replace (par. 113). If the machine is used most of the time for night operation, have a higher echelon increase the generating charging rate. Inspect brushes and commutator of generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. 91). If brushes are badly worn or sticking in holders, replace generator (pars. 93 and 94).

34. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

a. Panel Lamps Do Not Light When Switch Is Turned On. Examine each lamp and if burned out, replace (par. 120). Examine battery; if discharged, replace (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring and connections (fig. 71). Test light switch: if defective, replace (par. 116). Test blackout light switch (in lamp body): if defective, replace lamp (par. 114).

b. Lights Burn Dim but Brighten Up Considerably When Engine Is Accelerated. Test battery with hydrometer. If it is not fully charged, replace (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring, connections, and switches in circuit (fig. 73). If the battery runs down again after a short period of operation, have the generator output increased (refer to a higher echelon).

c. Lights Exceed Normal Brilliancy When Accelerating Engine. Examine battery: if defective, replace (par. 113). Remedy faulty wiring and connections (fig. 73). Do not forget the ground connection of the lamp body.

d. Blackout Stop Lamp and/or Service Stop Lamp Fail to Light. If the unit is burned out, replace it (par. 115). If the brake pedal is not operating switch, remedy the faulty operation. Remedy all faulty wiring and connections (fig. 73).

e. Horn Does Not Sound When Ignition and Light Switch Is Turned On and Horn Button Is Pressed. Test battery by turning on lights. If lights are dim, replace battery (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring and connections (fig. 73). If the horn does not respond to adjustment, replace (par. 117).

35. TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH.

a. Need for attention to clutch and controls is indicated by clutch slipping under load or dragging (transmission gears will shift hard and clash) when in disengaged position. In either case, the first thing to be checked is adjustment of controls; this being the attention usually needed. Indication that gear shifter controls are in need of adjustment is when transmission gears “jump” out of engagement when accelerating vehicle or when under heavy pull. CAUTION: This warning must not be disregarded.

(1) Clutch Slips When Fully Engaged. Adjust clutch control (par. 48). Adjust clutch spring tension (par. 48). If the clutch still slips, replace either the disks, springs, or both (par. 48).

(2) Clutch Drags When Fully Disengaged. Adjust control (par. 48). Adjust spring tension (par. 48).

(3) Clutch Rattles When in Disengaged Position, Engine Idling. In this case, the clutch probably was not properly assembled. Refer to paragraph 51 a.

(4) Transmission “Jumps” Out of Gear Upon Accelerating Vehicle, or When Under Heavy Pull. Adjust shifter lever control linkage (par. 54).

(5) Transmission Gears Shift Hard or Clash When Clutch is Fully Disengaged. Adjust clutch control linkage and spring tension (par. 48). Make sure the transmission mounting bolts and units are tight (pars. 57 and 58). Drain and fill transmission with correct lubricant (fig. 10). If the above methods fail to cure the symptom, refer to a higher authority.

36. WHEELS AND CHAINS.

a. Transmission Countershaft and Rear Wheel Sprockets Show Excessive Wear on One Side of Teeth. Adjust the position of the rear wheel axle to aline the rear wheel sprocket with the transmission sprocket (par. 60). If they cannot be alined, the frame is out of alinement, and the trouble must be referred to a higher authority.

b. Chains Produce Grinding Noise with Engine Idling and Vehicle on Rear Stand. If either chain is adjusted too tight, adjust to proper tension (pars. 59 and 60). Examine both chains for presence of dirt and grit. If dirty, clean and lubricate them (par. 20 c (10)). If either chain is dry, adjust chain oilers (par. 61). Badly worn chains and sprockets will cause this symptom; the worn parts must be replaced (pars. 62 and 63).

c. Front Chain Dry and/or Red (Rusty) in Appearance. The chain in this condition has not been receiving enough lubrication. Adjust chain oiler (par. 61). If the chain is damaged from lack of oil, replace (par. 62).

d. Rough or Jerky Vehicle Operation at Low Speed. Chains are too loose. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

e. Excessive Side Play at Rim of Front Wheel. Adjust bearing cones (par. 126). If the cones and or hub races are badly worn, replace wheel (par. 125).

f. Front Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (not in brake). The wheel bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. 125).

g. Rear Wheel Has Excessive Side Play at Rim of Wheel. The hub bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. 127).

h. Rear Wheel Has Side Play in Excess of 0.010 inch on Axle. The thrust washers of hub are worn or damaged. Replace wheel (par. 127).

i. Rear Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (chain removed). Tighten wheel mounting screws. If this does not correct noise, replace wheel (par. 127).

37. BRAKES.

a. Rear Brake Does Not Hold When Foot Pedal Is Depressed. If the brake linings are wet, operate the vehicle and apply a slight pressure to the brake pedal to dry out linings. After drying the linings adjust brake rod length (par. 96 b). If the brake operating lever stands ahead of the vertical position with brake applied, or the brake does not hold, replace the defective brake shoes (par. 96).

b. Rear Brake Squeaks or Chatters When Used. Tighten side plate sleeve nut, if it is loose. Adjust shoe position (par. 96). If the operating camshaft and/or side cover bearing is worn, replace the assembly (par. 96). If the brake shoe spring is defective, replace (par. 96). If the lining on the brake shoes is loose, worn, or defective, replace shoes (par. 96). If the brake drum is worn or damaged, replace the brake drum and sprocket assembly (par. 96).

c. Rear Brake Drags (vehicle on rear stand). Adjust linkage (par. 96). If it still drags, equalize shoe assemblies, and adjust linkage (par. 96).

d. Front Brake Does Not Hold When Hand Lever Is Operated. Adjust brake control (par. 97). If brakes are wet, operate vehicle a short distance with slight pressure on brake lever to dry out linings. If brake does not hold, replace shoes (par. 97).

e. Front Brake Drags. Adjust control linkage (par. 97). If brake still drags, equalize shoes and readjust control linkage (par. 97).

f. Front Brake Action Rough and/or Chatters. Adjust control linkage assembly (par. 97). If malfunction continues, examine brake shoes, shoe spring, camshaft bearing and side cover bearing. Replace any defective parts or assemblies (par. 97).

38. STEERING.

a. Motorcycle Pulls to One Side. Inspect and correct alinement of rear wheel (par. 60). If the front forks are bent or twisted, replace (par. 98). If trouble persists, refer to higher authority.

b. Motorcycle Weaves from Side to Side. Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road conditions. If this fails, inflate tires to correct pressure. Make sure rear wheel mounting screws are tight. If the steering head bearings are too tight, weaving will result. Check the steering head bearings (par. 98), and adjust if necessary.

c. Motorcycle Shimmies at High Speed. Inflate tires to correct pressure. Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road conditions. If the tire tread is unevenly worn, and shifting tires does not correct the condition, replace the defective casings. Make sure the axle nuts are tight. If the rocker plate studs and bushings are badly worn, or the fork springs are broken, replace (par. 98).

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a. Description. This 2-cylinder, V-type, air-cooled gasoline engine of L-head design operates on the 4-stroke, 4-cycle principle. Flywheel and connecting rod assemblies operate on roller bearings. Engine is fitted with low-expansion aluminum alloy, cam-ground, horizontally slotted pistons and with deep-finned aluminum cylinder heads. As viewed from left side of vehicle (drive chain side), rotation of engine is counterclockwise.

b. Lubrication system is of dry-sump type, in which oil supply is maintained in a tank away from engine. Oil is circulated by a supply feed pump and a scavenger, return pump. This oil circulating system plays a most important part in cooling the engine as well as lubricating it.

c. Data.

40. TUNE-UP.

a. Tune-up consists of making correct adjustment to valve tappets, circuit breaker ignition points, spark plug electrodes: checking and correcting ignition timing; draining and flushing carburetor bowl; cleaning and flushing gasoline strainer; cleaning muffler outlet, servicing air cleaner, and adjusting carburetor.

(1) Valve tappet adjustment (par. 43).

(2) Circuit breaker point adjustment (par. 84).

(3) Spark plug service (par. 83).

(4) Timing ignition (par. 86).

(5) Draining carburetor bowl (par. 73).

(6) Cleaning fuel strainer (par. 72).

(7) Cleaning muffler outlet requires freeing outlet of carbon deposits, caked dirt, oil, etc., with blade of screwdriver, or other suitable tool. Do not enlarge outlet size when cleaning.

(8) Servicing air cleaner (par. 76).

(9) Adjusting carburetor (par. 68).

41. REPLACEMENT OF HEAD GASKET (fig. 15).

a. Removal. Refer to figure 15, illustrating necessary parts and units to be removed to perform this operation.

(1) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119).

(2) Remove gasoline tank and oil tank (par. 107).

(3) Remove cylinder head bracket to frame lug bolt: this will free clamp which secures front spark plug cable. Pay particular attention to shim washers placed between cylinder head bracket and frame lug, as these washers must be replaced when installing cylinder head.

(4) Remove spark plug, or plugs.

(5) Remove cylinder head bolts, using head bolt wrench 41–W–1525. NOTE: On some 42 WLA models, plain washers (0.095–inch thick), in addition to regular (heavy) cylinder head bolt washers, were used to prevent cylinder head bolts from bottoming.

(6) Perform carbon removal (head only). Refer to paragraph 42.

b. Installing Gasket and Head (fig. 15).

(1) Clean top of cylinder. Apply a light application of grease or oil to both sides of gasket before locating on cylinder head. Place head on cylinder.

(2) Install head bolts, using heavy washers (also 0.095–inch thick plain washers, if any were removed). If in doubt as to use of 0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers, measure depth of bolt holes in cylinder head. Head having hole depth of 31/32 inch must use the 0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers. Head having bolt hole depth of 1¹/₁₆ inch does not require the 0.095–inch thick washers.

(3) Install cylinder frame bracket with the two long bolts, special (spool-shaped) spacers, and flat washers. The spacers go between cylinder heads and frame bracket. A flat washer goes under the head of each long cylinder bolt, above the bracket; some engines may have flat washers between the spacers and the bracket.

(4) Tighten head bolts evenly to ensure a tight cylinder head joint. Use head bolt wrench 41–W–1525, first turning down bolts just snug, then tightening each bolt ¹/₈ to ¼ turn at a time, until all are securely tightened. If torque wrench is available, tighten head bolts to 60 foot-pounds minimum, 65 foot-pounds maximum tension when engine is cold.

42. CARBON REMOVAL.

a. At time cylinder head is removed for gasket replacement, carbon must be removed from head only.

43. VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT (fig. 16).

a. Adjust Tappets with Engine Cold. Before loosening valve spring covers, a light application of oil around top edge of each cover will facilitate raising cover without damage to seal packing.

(1) Loosen valve spring covers; use tappet and valve cover wrench 41–W–3617.

(2) Before checking or adjusting tappet clearance, make sure valve is seated and that tappet is at lowest position, by turning engine ahead until like tappet (inlet or exhaust, whichever one is being adjusted) in the other cylinder is at highest position (valve fully open). Inlet valves are located nearest the carburetor manifold.

(4) Loosen adjusting screw lock nut (“2,” fig. 16) slightly before turning adjusting screw (fig. 16).

(5) Adjust inlet valve tappets to 0.004–inch minimum, and 0.005–inch maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet (“1” and “4,” fig. 16). Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened.

(6) Adjust exhaust valve tappets to 0.006–inch minimum, and 0.007–inch maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet. Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened.

(7) Before turning down valve spring covers, inspect paper gasket between each cover and tappet guide. If broken or damaged, fit a new gasket to prevent oil leak. Turn down and securely tighten valve spring covers.

44. REPLACEMENT OF OIL FEED PUMP (fig. 17).

a. Removal.

(1) Disconnect oil tank feed pipe at oil tank. Install nipple cap on tank nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect oil feed pipe from oil pump nipple.

(2) Oil pump is secured to engine gear case cover by one hexagon head bolt and three nuts. Two of the nuts are extra long to provide wrench clearance, and their location should be noted so they will be put back where they belong when reinstalling pump. After removing screw and nuts, remove pump. Unless a new pump gasket is available, take care not to damage or break the old one, as this is a very special gasket concerning both thickness and holes provided for oil channels. A “homemade” gasket may put oiling system completely out of commission.

b. Installing Oil Pump.

(1) Clean surface of pump body mounting on gear case cover and see that gasket is in good condition. Clean face of oil pump body.

(2) Start pump on mounting studs, turn engine slowly and press lightly against pump until driving dogs on end of cam gear shaft line up with and drop into driving slot in oil pump rotor.

(3) Insert hexagon-head bolt and lock washer, and install the three lock washers and nuts (two are long extension nuts) on pump mounting studs. Make sure to replace the two extra long nuts on the studs from which they were originally removed.

(4) Tighten mounting bolt and three nuts securely.

(5) Connect oil feed pipe to oil pump nipple. Remove nipple cap from tank nipple and connect upper end of oil feed pipe to this nipple. Tighten nipple nuts securely.

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a. A study of figures 18 and 19 will provide a good picture of the steps necessary for engine removal. Do not attempt any short cut methods, as this would consume more time and possibly cause damage to parts or unit assemblies.

(1) Disconnect battery ground wire at frame lug connection on right side of vehicle.

(2) To disconnect brake front rod from bell crank (located on right side of rear support rod), remove cotter pin and plain washer.

(3) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut and remove footboard front stud nut, then pull footboard outward to free right front end of safety guard. Disconnect brake front rod at bell crank. Remove bolt which secures front exhaust pipe clamp. Remove nut from rear support rod, freeing stop light switch and rear end of side bar. Remove nut from front support rod, freeing footboard and brake assembly for removal.

(4) Remove the two rear mounting bolts and drop rear end of skid plate (fig. 37).

(5) Remove muffler (par. 81).

(6) Disconnect oil pipe from tank and install nipple cap on oil tank feed pipe nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect pipe from oil pump and remove oil pipe.

(7) Disconnect spark control wire at circuit breaker lever, and free control housing clamp at cylinder base.

(8) Disconnect brake rear rod from bell crank.

(9) Disconnect red wire and black wire from front end of relay; also green wire from generator terminal.

(10) Remove spark plugs.

(11) Remove engine top mounting (cylinder head bracket) bracket to frame lug bolt: this also frees front spark plug cable clamp. Pay particular attention to shim washers (if any) between cylinder head bracket and frame lug; these will have to be installed in the original position.

(12) Remove lever bottom bolt, freeing gear shifter lever from shifter rod.

(13) Close fuel tank valve. Remove gasoline pipe from tank nipple and fuel filter nipple.

(14) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever.

(15) Disconnect air intake hose connection fitting from carburetor (four screws) and leave attached to hose. Remove air cleaner from mounting bracket (par. 78).

(16) Remove front chain guard (par. 102).

(17) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65).

(18) Remove two screws and locks securing inner chain guard to crankcase.

(19) With ¹³/₁₆–inch deep socket wrench slipped over rear footboard support rod stud, remove extended nut, and withdraw support rod from right side of vehicle.

(20) To disconnect the circuit breaker to coil wire and shielding ground from coil rear terminals, disconnect oil pressure signal light wire from oil pressure switch terminal. It will be necessary to free air cleaner mounting bracket and swing it outward, to gain access to coil rear shielding ground terminal.

(21) Engine mounting bolts are secured by cotter pins and castle nuts. Remove all engine mounting bolts, except the one under generator; this bolt cannot be removed without removing generator; merely push it up far enough to clear frame engine lug when engine is removed from frame.

(22) Lift and remove engine from right side of frame.

46. INSTALL ENGINE (figs. 18, 19, and 20).

a. Installing the engine is generally the reverse of the procedure followed in engine removal. Pay close attention to the following procedure because checking and adjustment of controls and other items is necessary to satisfactory vehicle operation.

(1) Lift engine into frame from right side of vehicle. Make sure that mounting bolt under generator is raised to clear frame engine lug.

(2) Pass remaining three engine mounting bolts up from under side of frame lugs through crankcase lugs: install plain washers and castle nuts. Fit plain washer and castle nut on mounting bolt under generator. Securely tighten all four castle nuts and lock with cotter pins.

(3) Connect circuit breaker to coil wire. Connect wire to coil rear terminal and ground shielding on coil case terminal.

(4) Connect oil pressure switch wire to switch terminal.

(5) Pass rear footboard support rod through frame lug from right side of vehicle and install the extended ¹³/₁₆–inch nut.

(6) Secure inner chain guard by attaching the two screws and locks mounting inner chain guard to engine base. Drift edge of locks into screw slots for security.

(7) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain together. See that engine shaft is clean, sprocket taper clean, and that key is in place before tightening sprocket nut. Drift nut tight, using hammer on wrench.

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(9) Connect hose and fitting assembly by installing two bolts, washers, and nuts securing air cleaner to frame bracket; then install four screws securing hose fitting to carburetor. NOTE: If cleaner frame bracket was loosened and shifted to gain access to coil rear terminals, securely mount bracket before installing air cleaner assembly.

(10) Connect throttle control wire to carburetor lever. Make sure that throttle closes fully when right grip is turned outward; and that throttle opens fully when grip is turned inward.

(11) Install fuel pipe. Securely tighten union nuts on tank and fuel strainer nipples. Open fuel supply valve and check connections for leaks.

(12) Connect gear shifter lever end to gear shifter rod by tightening bolt and nut.

(13) Attach engine top mounting bracket (cylinder head bracket) to frame lug, exercising care in installing required number of thin shims, together with clamp for front spark plug cable, to fill space between bracket and frame lug before tightening bolt nut. NOTE: Frame lug must be free from paint or grease to make clean “electrical” connection with plated shims and mounting bracket for adequate radio bonding.

(14) Before installing spark plugs, inspect for cleanliness and correct electrode adjustment. Service if necessary (par. 83). Replace gaskets to ensure tight joints.

(15) Connect red and black wires to relay: connect green wire to generator terminal marked “SWITCH.” Refer to wiring diagram (fig. 73).

(16) Attach rear brake rod to bell crank. Install plain washer and secure with cotter pin.

(17) Connect spark control wire to circuit breaker lever and secure control wire housing clamp under cylinder base nut. Make sure that spark advances fully (lever inward) when control grip (left handle bar) is turned inward, and that spark retards fully when control grip is turned outward. Make needed adjustment at control wire and lever connection.

(18) Remove nipple cap from tank oil pipe nipple (if one was used) and connect oil feed pipe, securely tightening union nuts at tank and oil pump.

(19) Position exhaust pipe and muffler assembly and attach rear hanger frame bolt, washer, and nut. Secure muffler front mounting bracket bolt, but do not tighten nut until skid plate rear bracket is located on this bolt.

(20) Lift rear end of skid plate, secure rear mounting bracket and muffler front mounting bracket with bolt, washer, and nut. Attach skid plate left side bracket, tightening support rod nut and bracket bolt and nut.

(21) Install right side footboard, sidebar, and brake pedal assembly. Install stop light switch bracket on rear support rod before placing lock washer and tightening nut. Attach front exhaust pipe clamp to sidebar. Install lock washer, and tighten sidebar front support rod nut. Attach right end of front safety guard to sidebar with footboard front support stud. Replace lock washer, and tighten nut. Also tighten footboard rear support stud nut. Connect stop light switch control to brake foot pedal.

(22) Attach brake front rod to bell crank; fit plain washer and secure with cotter pin.

(23) Connect battery ground wire to frame lug on right side of vehicle.

b. Check instrument panel signal lights for normal indications, and see that oil is in tank before starting engine.

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a. Clutch is of simple multiple-dry-disk type, having two steel disks and three lined disks, one of which provides spring action within disk pack to “cushion” clutch operation.

48. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT (figs. 22, 23, 24, and 25).

a. If clutch adjustment is correctly maintained, clutch will cause very little trouble. Ease of gear shifting and service life of transmission gear shifter clutch dogs depend largely upon full disengagement of the clutch. Clutch adjustment is in two parts; namely, control linkage and spring tension. Do not adjust clutch spring tension before correcting control adjustment.

b. Clutch Control Linkage (fig. 22). Operation of foot pedal, control cable, and clutch release lever actuates the push rod through hollow transmission shaft, disengaging or engaging clutch at will. Correct adjustment to control cable and release lever must be made before push rod adjustment is made.

c. Clutch Control Adjustment (figs. 23, 24, 25, and 26).

(1) Adjusting Cable Length. With clutch in fully disengaged position (foot pedal heel down) the clutch release lever must clear the countershaft sprocket cover stud and/or nut by ¹/₁₆ inch. Should clutch release lever strike sprocket cover and nut, clutch push rod movement is restricted, and clutch cannot be fully disengaged. Length of control cable must be adjusted to obtain ¹/₁₆–inch clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud and/or nut clearance. To lengthen or shorten clutch control cable, cable adjustable end must be removed from foot pedal stud (figs. 23 and 24). With foot pedal in forward (toe down) position, remove cotter pin and washer retaining cable end. Release other end of cable from notch in clutch release lever by pressing release lever inward and lifting cable end out of notch. Rock the foot pedal to rear (heel down) position and work cable adjustable end off foot pedal stud. Loosen lock nut and turn cable end to right (clockwise) to shorten cable; turn to left (counter-clockwise) to lengthen cable. Tighten lock nut, install cable end on foot pedal stud; install washer and cotter pin, and install other end of cable in clutch release lever notch.

(2) Adjusting Clearance of Clutch Release Lever and Push Rod (fig. 25). With clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud clearance correctly adjusted (step (1) above), clutch release lever must have between ¹/₈–inch and ¼–inch free play at end where control cable engages lever notch (fig. 25). This free play ensures a fully engaged clutch without pressure on clutch release bearing. Adjustment is made by means of push rod adjusting screw located in clutch outer disk. Remove two screws which secure inspection hole cover to chain guard (fig. 25). If clutch release lever has less than ¹/₈–inch free play at end of cable, loosen push rod adjusting screw lock nut and turn push rod adjusting screw to the left (counter-clockwise) to increase amount of free play. If clutch release lever has more than ¼–inch free play at end of cable, turn adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) to decrease amount of free play. Tighten lock nut after correct adjustment is obtained. Replace inspection hole cover. CAUTION: If end of clutch release lever has no free play as explained above, clutch will not hold when fully engaged. If too much free play is allowed, clutch will drag when disengaged; consequently, transmission gears will shift hard, clash, and eventually become damaged.

d. Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension (fig. 26). If clutch slips (does not hold when starting engine or with vehicle in operation) after controls have been correctly adjusted (step c (1) and (3) above), spring tension must be increased. NOTE: Do not increase spring tension any more than actually required to make clutch hold.

(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Bend down lock lips to free the three clutch adjusting nuts.

(3) Turning nuts to right (clockwise) increases clutch spring tension. Tighten (turn to right) all three adjusting nuts, one-half turn at a time, until clutch holds. Test clutch after each half-turn of the three adjusting nuts by cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds without any noticeable slippage when cranking engine, also holds on the road.

(4) After clutch spring tension adjustment is made, bend up nut lock lips to secure adjusting nuts. Replace any broken or badly damaged locks.

(5) When a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the distance from the inner edge of shoulder on spring collar to face of outer (releasing) disk is 1–3/32 inches (fig. 27). In any case, do not tighten the three adjusting nuts to the point where inner edge of shoulder of spring collar is closer than ? inch to face of outer (releasing) disk. If compressed more, clutch probably cannot be fully disengaged.

(7) If clutch still does not hold, after correct control and spring tension adjustments have been made, clutch “pack” assembly must be replaced (par. 49).

(8) After making clutch spring tension adjustment, replace outer front chain guard (par. 102).

49. REMOVAL OF DISKS (figs. 28, 29, and 30).

a. Clutch disks can be removed for inspection, cleaning, and/or replacing. Springs can be removed for checking and/or replacing without disturbing sprocket, which is integral with clutch shell. It is advisable to remove releasing (outer) disk, springs, and collar as an assembly because it is difficult to correctly aline, hold in place, and reassemble springs in this unit. If springs show signs of overheating, and appear to be “set,” they should be removed, measured, and replaced if necessary (par. 50).

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Place a large flat washer, approximately ¹/₈–inch thick, 1¾–inch in diameter with a ?–inch center hole, over push rod adjusting screw, and replace adjusting screw lock nut just removed (fig. 28). Tighten adjusting screw lock nut against large washer until the three clutch spring adjusting nuts are free. Bend nut lock down, remove the three adjusting nuts, and withdraw releasing (outer) disk and spring assembly as one unit. Remaining lined and plain steel disks can now be removed from sprocket and clutch shell unit without further disassembly (fig. 30). NOTE: At time lined and plain disks are removed from shell, observe relative position of each disk in order of correct assembly.

50. INSPECTION OF DISKS AND SPRINGS.

a. Worn Disk Liners. When disk liners are worn down flush (or nearly flush) with rivet heads, disk and liner assembly must be replaced.

b. Loose Liner Rivets. If disk liner rivets are loose, replace disk and liner assembly with like assembly in new or good order.

c. Oil-soaked Disk Liners. If lined disks are not badly worn, but are oil-soaked, wash them thoroughly in clean gasoline and dry with air or heat.

d. Shrunken or Weak Springs. If clutch has been badly overheated as a result of slippage, springs may be found in shrunken or weakened condition. Assuming disk liners are not badly worn, weakened springs are indicated when the three spring tension nuts have been tightened to make the clutch hold until the distance between spring collar and releasing (outer) disk is ? inch. If shrunken or weak springs are suspected, remove them for inspection.

(1) To remove springs, remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut, freeing spring collar and the 10 springs from the releasing (outer) disk assembly.

(2) Measure springs for free length. Free length of new clutch springs is approximately 1½ inches (they may vary plus or minus 1/32 inch). Old springs found to be shrunk ¹/₈ inch (total free length of spring is 1? inch or less) must be replaced with new springs. NOTE: Before replacing springs, select 10 springs that do not vary more than 1/32 inch to make up the assembly.

(3) Assembling Releasing Disk, Springs, and Spring Collar. Place the 10 springs upright on releasing disk to centrally locate each of the 10 stud holes. Place spring collar (flanged edge down) over ends of springs, locating the collar plate “dimples” in ends of 7 of the springs. Place the large washer over push rod adjusting screw; tighten adjusting screw nut, and compress springs lightly. Turn assembly over and observe alinement of springs and disk holes. If necessary, insert a ?–inch rod through holes to aline springs. Tighten down adjusting screw nut; assembly is now ready for complete clutch assembly.

51. INSTALLATION OF DISKS (figs. 30, 29, and 28).

a. It is important when assembling a clutch to start with a lined disk. Install the two steel disks so that the antirattle devices are staggered on splines in the shell, and the “sprung” disk (lined on one side) is the last of the pack, its lined side facing the steel disk. Before installing disks, see that bearing retaining plate lock rings (“R,” fig. 21) are in place on the short studs, and are tight against the retaining plate. This is to prevent noise in the clutch.

(1) Install one of the two lined disks on clutch hub studs first.

(2) Next, engage one of the two steel disks with the splines within the clutch shell, with side stamped “OUT” facing outward.

(3) Install the remaining lined disk on the clutch hub studs.

(4) Engage remaining steel disk with shell splines with “OUT” side facing outward.

(5) Install “sprung” (one side lined) steel disk, lined side inward, on clutch hub studs.

(6) It will be noted that the three long, threaded-end, clutch hub studs are not spaced an equal distance apart. It will also be noted that the three holes (keyhole shaped) in the spring collar are not spaced equidistantly. Therefore, when installing releasing disk and spring assembly on clutch hub studs, the three threaded studs and holes in spring collar must be alined. Install assembly on studs, replace the three nut locks, replace the three adjusting nuts, and tighten all three evenly until the distance between shoulder of spring collar and face of releasing disk is 1–1/32 inch (fig. 27).

(7) Remove the large washer and replace push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Do not attempt adjustment of clutch release lever and push rod adjusting screw until outer front chain guard and footboard have been installed.

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(9) Check controls and clutch adjustment. If necessary, correct according to paragraph 48.

52. REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (fig. 31).

a. Clutch release lever acts against a thrust bearing and push rod assembly which actuates clutch releasing disk.

b. Remove Clutch Release Bearing. Engage clutch fully (foot pedal toe down) and disengage clutch control cable end from slotted end of clutch release lever.

(1) Loosen rear chain guard by removing cap screw which retains rear chain oil pipe and secures front end of rear drive chain guard to transmission countershaft sprocket cover.

(2) Remove the four nuts which secure sprocket cover to transmission.

(3) Remove filler plug.

(4) Hold down starter crank with screwdriver.

(5) Remove sprocket cover and clutch release lever assembly. It may be necessary to pry cover off studs. With cover removed, clutch release bearing is exposed.

(6) Withdraw clutch release bearing and push rod assembly from transmission shaft.

c. Install Clutch Release Bearing.

(1) Insert push rod with clutch release bearing assembly into transmission shaft hole, as far as rod will go. See that bearing is clean and well greased.

(2) Install sprocket cover. Securely tighten the four nuts.

(3) Install cap screw which secures rear chain guard end and chain oiler pipe clamp to sprocket cover.

(4) Engage clutch control cable end in slotted end of clutch release lever.

(5) Check clutch release lever for free play at end of cable.

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a. Transmission has three speeds: low, second, and high, and is of the constant-mesh, non-selective type. High gear is direct drive. Since “dogs” on gear shifter clutches are used to engage transmission gears, it is of great importance that vehicle clutch is correctly adjusted. Clutch must be fully disengaged when shifting gears, to prevent clashing of gears, and possible damage to the shifter clutch “dogs” and transmission gears. It is also important that gear shifter control linkage be kept in correct adjustment to ensure full engagement of shifter clutch driving dogs in all positions, thus preventing possible damage caused by dogs jumping out of engagement under driving load. Close fitting and needle roller bearings, within the transmission, necessitate use of engine oil (seasonal grade) in transmission case for adequate lubrication.

54. CONTROL LINKAGE (fig. 32).

a. Transmission Shifted to Adjust Front Drive Chain. The transmission is located to receive power from front (engine) drive chain and transmit power through rear drive chain to rear wheel, and is movable on its mounting for adjustment of the front (engine) drive chain. When front (engine) drive chain is adjusted, transmission gear shifter control linkage is affected. Therefore, after each front drive chain adjustment, gear shifter control linkage must be checked, and, if necessary, correctly adjusted to ensure proper gear shifting with full engagement of the gear shifter clutch driving “dogs” as well as prevent transmission from jumping out of gear under load.

b. Checking Gear Shifter Control Linkage. Before making adjustment to gear shifter control linkage, make the following checks: See that all linkage points from transmission gear shifter lever to gear shifter hand lever are well oiled and free-working. Check hand lever pivot bolt nut for tightness. Observe whether there is binding or interference with shifter rod at any point in the shifting range; this sometimes results from a bent snifter rod. Check whether or not shifter rod is correctly adjusted so that when hand lever is moved to any gear position in tank shifter guide, transmission lever moves to the proper position to fully engage shifter clutch dogs and shifter cam spring plunger in cam-locating notch (inside transmission).

c. Adjusting Gear Shifter Control Linkage (fig. 32).

(1) Set hand lever in “N” (neutral) position in shifter guide.

(2) Remove nut and bolt to disconnect shifter rod from hand lever.

(3) With slight backward and forward movement of shifter rod, carefully “feel” transmission lever into exact position where shifter cam spring plunger (inside transmission) seats fully in cam-locating notch.

(4) Next, see that hand lever is in exact “N” (neutral) position in tank shifter guide.

(5) Readjust length of shifter rod by loosening rod end lock nut, and turning rod end (onto or off rod as necessary) until its bolt hole lines up with bolt hole in hand lever.

(6) Replace bolt and tighten nut.

(7) Check Adjustment. It is advisable to shift hand lever into “L” (low) and “S” (second) gear positions and check shifter rod adjustment to be sure of having best all-round adjustment.

(8) When shifter clutches become worn or damaged to the extent of jumping out of engagement under driving load, even though shifter control linkage is correctly adjusted, transmission must be removed and referred to higher authority for service.

55. REPLACEMENT OF FOOT STARTER CRANK.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove starter crank clamp bolt nut and remove bolt from crank.

(2) Pull starter crank off squared shaft.

b. Install. In installing foot starter crank, notch (for clamp-bolt clearance) must be in upward position in squared shaft to put return spring tension on crank.

(1) Use a ⁵/₈–inch, open-end wrench and turn square shaft counterclockwise until bolt slot is upward. Hold shaft in this position and press starter crank onto shaft until clamping bolt can be inserted.

(2) Insert clamp bolt with bolt head toward rear wheel (crank in upward position) to provide clearance when starter crank is operated.

(3) Fit lock washer and nut and tighten nut securely.

56. REPLACEMENT OF STARTER CRANK SPRING (fig. 33).

a. Starter crank spring fits rather snugly behind rear edge of countershaft sprocket cover; however, it can be removed and installed without removing sprocket cover.

b. Remove.

(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55).

(2) With the blade of a screwdriver or with pliers, pry hooked end of spring off stud. NOTE: If spring is broken, this operation will not be necessary. Pull on spring end, at same time prying spring free of sprocket cover so as to pull spring off square shaft.

c. Install.

(1) Turn squared shaft so that clamp bolt notch is in bottom position. Engage square hole in spring on shaft with the hooked spring end to rear, in line with starter spring stud. Work spring onto shaft, prying it to rear to clear sprocket cover. Press all the way on squared shaft.

(2) Hook end of spring in place on spring stud.

(3) Install foot starter crank (par. 55).

57. REMOVE TRANSMISSION (figs. 34 and 35).

a. Transmission and clutch are assembled in one unit and must be removed and installed together. To make sure trouble is in transmission, check clutch adjustment (par. 48) and transmission control linkage (par. 54) before replacing a faulty unit.

b. Remove.

(1) Drop rear end of skid plate (par. 111).

(2) Remove front chain guard (par. 102).

(3) Remove oil bath air cleaner and mounting bracket (par. 80). Lower bracket bolt also secures clutch cable tube to frame tube bracket on left side.

(4) Remove engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65).

(5) Remove the two mounting screws and locks in engine case to free inner front chain guard.

(6) Remove tool box from mounting bracket (par. 106). Remove bracket from frame.

(7) Remove rear brake rod (par. 96).

(8) Remove rear drive chain (par. 63).

(9) Remove rear drive chain guard (par. 102). Remove rear chain oiler pipe after disconnecting at oil pump.

(10) Remove battery box (par. 105).

(11) Remove nut, washer, and bolt securing clutch tube assembly bracket to frame bracket on right side of vehicle. Disengage clutch operating cable end from end of clutch release lever and remove cable and tube assembly.

(12) Remove gear shifter rod by disconnecting at hand shifter lever and at transmission gear shifter lever.

(13) Remove the three transmission mounting stud nuts, then remove lock washers and large plain washers (located under frame bracket), and lift transmission sufficiently to permit removal of front chain adjusting screw.

(14) Loosen upper U-bolts on ignition coil mounting, then remove the lower U-bolt nuts and shift coil on frame tube as far as possible toward the front.

(15) Remove transmission and clutch assembly from vehicle by lifting complete unit sufficiently to free mounting studs from frame bracket; then rotate top of transmission backward about ¼ turn (fig. 34) and remove unit from left side of frame (fig. 35).

58. INSTALL TRANSMISSION (figs. 34 and 35).

a. Install from Left Side. Working from left side of frame, tilt top of transmission backward, and as unit passes into position, rotate top forward, until unit is squarely in position and mounting studs pass through slots in frame mounting bracket.

(1) Shift ignition coil mounting back into correct position and tighten U-bolt nuts.

(2) Install front chain adjusting screw. Lift transmission to engage screw in frame notch.

(3) Install large plain washers, lock washers, and nuts on the three transmission mounting studs. Do not tighten.

(4) Install gear shifter rod by connecting to hand shifter lever and transmission gear shifter lever.

(5) Install clutch operating cable and tube assembly. Connect cable end to clutch release lever. Position tube assembly bracket to frame bracket and install bolt, washer, and nut to hold in place.

(6) Install battery box (par. 105).

(7) Install rear drive chain guard (par. 102).

(8) Install rear drive chain (par. 63).

(9) Install rear brake rod (par. 96).

(10) Install tool box bracket and tool box (par. 106).

(11) Secure inner front chain guard to engine base by installing screw locks and screws. After screws are tightened, drift edge of each lock into screw slot for security.

(12) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65).

(13) If necessary, adjust front drive chain (par. 59).

(14) Securely tighten transmission mounting stud nuts.

(15) Install outer front chain guard cover (par. 102). Connect rear chain oiler pipe to oil pump.

(16) Install air cleaner and mounting bracket, air hose, and connections (par. 79).

(17) Lift skid plate into position and install two mounting bolts, lock washers, and nuts.

(18) Check gear shifter control, and, if necessary, adjust linkage (par. 54).

(19) Check rear drive chain adjustment and adjust if necessary (par. 60).

(20) Check rear brake adjustment. If necessary, adjust rear brake linkage (par. 96).

(21) Check clutch controls and adjust if necessary (par. 48).

(22) Before operating vehicle, see that transmission oil level is up to filler opening (vehicle standing upright).

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a. At the time front chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for correct lubrication and, if necessary, adjust front chain oiler (par. 61).

b. Chains wear unevenly and some stretch may result, making tight and loose sections. For this reason, engine must be turned and chain rotated to position of least slack at the time adjustment is made.

c. A correctly adjusted front chain has ½–inch, or slightly more, free up-and-down movement midway between sprockets, at inspection hole. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky, noisy action and/or strike the chain guard.

d. Adjustment of front chain is made by shifting transmission on its mounting base. This will affect adjustment of gear shifter control linkage, clutch control linkage, and rear chain.

e. How to Adjust Front Chain.

(1) Remove inspection hole cover by removing screws and lifting cover from front outer chain guard, exposing chain (fig. 36).

(2) Obtain tightest chain position by rotating chain to position of least slack. Test amount of slack by lifting and depressing chain with finger. Use a free up-and-down motion of the finger to make this test.

(3) Loosen the three transmission mounting stud nuts underneath transmission mounting base. (It is not necessary to drop skid plate to reach stud nuts (fig. 37).) Transmission can now be shifted on its mounting base by means of adjusting screw, head of which protrudes through notch of frame fitting, located at rear of transmission (fig. 38).

(4) Turn adjusting screw clockwise (to the right) to move transmission backward and tighten front chain. Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise (to the left) to move transmission forward and loosen front chain.

(5) After moving transmission by means of adjusting screw, check front chain adjustment; then securely tighten the three transmission mounting stud nuts and again check chain adjustment, as tightening stud nuts sometimes changes chain adjustment.

(6) After front chain adjustment has been made, securely tighten the three transmission mounting stud nuts.

(7) Install front chain inspection hole cover and tighten screws.

(8) Check shifter lever control linkage adjustment (par. 54).

(9) Check clutch control linkage adjustment (par. 48).

60. ADJUST REAR CHAIN AND ALINE REAR WHEEL (fig. 39).

a. In moving transmission backward on its mounting to tighten front chain, the rear chain will be loosened. Rear chain must then be adjusted by moving rear wheel backward. When rear wheel is moved either forward or backward, adjustment of the rear wheel brake is affected.

b. When checking rear chain for slack midway between the sprockets, turn wheel and rotate chain to position of least slack. Use free up-and-down movement of finger to lift chain and depress it to determine tightest position.

c. At position of least slack, a correctly adjusted rear chain has ½–inch, or slightly more, free up-and-down movement midway between sprockets. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky operation and/or strike the chain guard or other chassis parts.

d. At the time rear chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for correct lubrication and if necessary, adjust rear chain oiler (par. 61).

e. Rear chain adjustment and rear wheel alinement are both made by means of the rear wheel adjusting screws. Therefore, adjustment of either the chain or the wheel alinement can affect adjustment of the other, making it necessary to consider both adjustments at the same time.

(1) Remove rear axle nut and lock washer (right side of vehicle).

(2) Loosen brake sleeve nut enough to allow brake assembly to slide backward or forward in frame mounting (fig. 39).

(3) Loosen the two (right and left side) rear wheel adjusting screw lock nuts.

(4) Turn wheel adjusting screws clockwise (to right) to move wheel and sprocket backward. This tightens chain. NOTE: If chain is too tight, turn wheel adjusting screws counterclockwise (to left) so that wheel can be shifted forward. This will loosen chain. Always turn the two wheel adjusting screws an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel alined.

(5) Check correct alinement of wheel by noting that tire (not tire rim) runs approximately midway between lower rear frame tubes at the point where tubes join transmission mounting. It is desirable to have tire run slightly closer (not more than ¹/₁₆ in.) to right than to left side lower tube. A further check of alinement is observing that rear sprocket runs centrally in chain. CAUTION: If rear wheel is not correctly alined, vehicle steering will be affected, and sprockets will wear excessively on one side.

(6) With adjustment of chain and wheel alinement completed, securely tighten wheel adjusting screw lock nuts, and brake sleeve nut: replace axle lock washer and nut, tightening nut.

(7) Recheck adjustment of chain as tightening brake sleeve nut and axle nut sometimes changes the chain adjustment.

(8) After tightening rear chain, rear brake may be found too tight. Check and correct brake adjustment (par. 96).

61. CHAIN OILERS (fig. 40).

a. Both front and rear chains are automatically lubricated by engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need occasional readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied operating conditions. Chains under most operating conditions require a very small amount of oil; therefore, chain oilers require very fine adjustment to supply just enough oil without waste.

b. When adjusting chain oilers, it is advisable to add or remove only one thin washer at a time and inspect chain again after vehicle has run approximately 100 miles, to determine whether or not further adjustment is necessary.

c. If inspection of front chain through inspection hole reveals that chain is not getting enough oil, adjust front chain oiler as follows:

(1) Add thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers already under head of screw.

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

d. Evidence of too much oil on front chain requires cutting down on chain oiler.

(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

e. If inspection reveals that rear chain is not getting enough oil, and that oil pipe end is open, is not bent, and is directed on chain; then the rear chain oiler must be adjusted.

(1) Adjust oiler by adding thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers already under head of screw.

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

f. Evidence of too much oil on rear chain (supplied by oiler) requires cutting down on chain oiler.

(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

g. At 1000–mile intervals, loosen both front and rear chain oiler adjusting screws (fig. 40) two turns each. Do not remove screws. Start and idle engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do not force. This operation serves to flush oiler control valves and rear chain oiler pipe.

62. REPLACEMENT OF FRONT CHAIN.

a. A new or original duplex front chain is endless, not provided with connecting link, and engine sprocket must be removed in order to remove or replace chain.

b. Remove.

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65). Chain can now be lifted off clutch sprocket.

c. Install. When installing a new front chain and/or sprocket, it may be necessary to shift transmission ahead in order to get chain on (par. 59 e).

(1) Clean engine shaft taper and sprocket hole.

(2) Place chain on clutch sprocket teeth and install sprocket (par. 65).

(3) Check chain adjustment (par. 59).

(4) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

63. REPLACEMENT OF REAR CHAIN (fig. 41).

a. Remove. Support vehicle on rear stand. With transmission in “N” (neutral) position, turn rear wheel until chain connecting link is located on rear sprocket teeth, about straight back from axle.

(1) Using pliers, lift split end of connecting link spring clip out of link pin notch, taking care not to damage spring clip. Remove spring clip from other link pin notch.

(2) Pull off link side plate and push link out of chain ends. Replace connecting link and spring clip in one end of chain to prevent its loss.

(3) Pull on lower half of chain, guiding upper part while it rotates around countershaft sprocket, until removed. If a new rear chain is to be installed, one end can be linked to the upper half end of old chain and can be pulled onto countershaft sprocket as old chain is removed.

b. Install. When installing a new rear chain and/or countershaft sprocket, it may be necessary to set rear wheel ahead in order to get chain on (par. 60).

(1) Start end of chain over countershaft sprocket teeth, using starter crank to turn sprocket. After chain end has reached front half of sprocket, it will be necessary to guide end under sprocket and out of sprocket cover. Center chain so that ends engage rear sprocket teeth, back of the axle.

(2) Install connecting link, side plate and spring clip. See that open end of spring clip is to the rear with regard to chain travel (like the end of an arrow). If original spring clip is bent or damaged, use a new one.

(3) Adjust rear chain (par. 60).

(4) Check rear brake adjustment (par. 96).

64. CHAIN REPAIR TOOL (fig 42).

a. Damaged or broken chain links can be replaced with connecting (repair) links after bad links have been removed. To remove damaged or broken link, push out chain side plate pins with the chain repair tool (41–T–3320). Front chain is a double row of duplex chain; rear chain is a single row chain. The chain tool furnished in the tool kit is designed to accommodate both. To put a connecting link in the front chain, it will be necessary to remove front chain guard (par. 102).

b. When connecting (repair) links have been fitted to chain, make sure that spring clips are correctly and securely locked on link pin ends.

65. REPLACEMENT OF ENGINE SPROCKET.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove engine sprocket nut (right-hand thread). It will be necessary to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.

(3) Give flat surface of engine sprocket, near outer edge, a light but sharp rap with a hammer, being careful not to strike and damage sprocket teeth. Take care not to lose sprocket shaft key.

b. Install. If new sprocket is being installed, it may be necessary to shift transmission forward to get chain to fit on sprockets (par. 59).

(1) Thoroughly clean engine shaft taper and see that key is in place. Clean sprocket taper hole, fit front chain on sprocket teeth, and rotate chain until keyway in sprocket lines up with key in engine shaft. Slip sprocket onto engine shaft, install nut, and tighten securely. Strike wrench with a hammer to make sure sprocket nut is very tight.

(2) Install front outer chain guard (par. 102).

66. REPLACEMENT OF COUNTERSHAFT SPROCKET.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55).

(2) Remove starter crank spring (par. 56).

(3) Remove countershaft sprocket cover (par. 52).

(4) Bend back extension of sprocket nut lock.

(5) Remove sprocket retaining nut. It will be necessary to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.

(6) Give sprocket a light but sharp rap with a hammer near outer edge, being careful not to strike the sprocket teeth, and remove sprocket from shaft taper. Do not lose the two sprocket shaft keys.

b. Install.

(1) Clean shaft taper and taper hole in countershaft sprocket. Install the two keys.

(2) Install sprocket on shaft. Place rear chain on sprocket before installing sprocket cover.

(3) Examine nut lock and, if badly damaged, use a new one.

(4) Install sprocket retaining nut. Tighten by striking wrench with a hammer. NOTE: This nut must be tight. Bend up extension of nut lock against side of nut.

(5) It will be easier to install starter crank spring at this step to avoid interference with sprocket cover.

(6) Install sprocket cover.

(7) Install starter crank.

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a. Carburetor is of the side-outlet, plain-tube type with a fixed venturi. Fuel feed is by gravity from tank above. Carburetor has two manual controls: the throttle, which is operated by the right handle bar grip, and the choke, which is operated by a lever on the carburetor itself. The high speed fuel supply is governed by a fixed (non-adjustable) jet. The idling to medium speed (30 mph) fuel supply is governed by an adjustable (low speed) needle valve located on rear side of carburetor body.

68. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT (fig. 43).

a. Before attempting to adjust carburetor to correct faulty engine performance, attention should be given other items which have a direct bearing on and can affect carburetor adjustment as well as engine performance.

(1) Inspect fuel tank cap and make sure air vent is not plugged.

(2) See that throttle control adjustment is correct (par. 69).

(3) See that spark control adjustment is correct (par. 88).

(4) Drain and flush carburetor bowl (par. 73).

(5) Drain and flush fuel strainer (par. 72).

(6) Inspect air cleaner to see that passage of air through cleaner is not restricted by oil level being too high in oil cup, or by an excessive accumulation of dirt in filter elements (par. 76).

(7) Check manifold packing nuts and carburetor mounting screws for tightness.

(8) See that spark plugs are clean and that gaps are adjusted between 0.025 inch to 0.030 inch. If condition of spark plugs is questionable, install new ones.

(9) Check adjustment of valve tappets (par. 43).

(10) Check compression of both cylinders (par. 29 b.) (1)

(11) Check condition and adjustment of circuit breaker points (par. 84).

(12) Check ignition to battery wiring connections (diagram fig. 48).

(13) See that battery is not entirely discharged by turning on lights (tactical situation permitting) and observing brilliancy.

b. A carburetor, once correctly adjusted, should require little, if any, readjusting. At most, it should not be necessary to adjust the low speed needle more than one or two notches either way to correct mixture to meet changes in weather conditions.

c. Low Speed Adjusting Needle (figs. 43 and 44). Adjustment of this needle valve controls only idling and low speed (up to approximately 30 mph) fuel mixture. Turn needle valve down (to right) to make mixture leaner. Back out (to left) needle valve to make mixture richer. Needle valve is held in any desired position by a spring-and-ball plunger which engages notches in the needle adjusting screw.

d. Complete Readjustment of Carburetor. A carburetor that is badly out of adjustment, and/or a new carburetor just installed, must be adjusted as follows:

(1) Turn the low speed needle valve all the way down (to right).

(2) Back needle valve out (to left) about three full turns. With needle valve in this position, engine will start, but mixture will probably be too rich.

(3) Start engine as follows: After choke lever has been moved to normal open running position and engine is normally hot, correct adjustment of needle valve by turning needle valve down (to right) one notch at a time until mixture becomes so lean that engine misses, and is inclined to stop: then back out (to left) needle valve 5 to 10 notches, or until engine fires regularly with spark advanced and throttle closed (or as nearly closed as it can be set and still have engine running at idling speed).

(4) Adjust throttle lever stop screw (fig. 43) as necessary to make engine idle at proper speed with throttle in fully closed position. Turning stop screw to the right makes engine idle faster. Turning stop screw to the left makes engine idle slower. Do not idle engine at the slowest possible speed, because an extremely slow idling adjustment causes hard engine starting. Changing idling speed with throttle stop screw is likely to change the low speed fuel mixture to some extent: therefore, it will be necessary to again check and correct the low speed needle valve adjustment (step (3) above).

(5) Engine starting and all-round carburetion will be improved with low speed fuel adjustment slightly rich, rather than extremely lean.

69. THROTTLE CONTROL WIRE ADJUSTMENT (figs. 43 and 44).

a. Carburetor throttle is opened and closed by means of the right handle bar grip, operating a control wire (within a housing) which connects to the throttle lever. Adjustment for full opening and closing of the throttle to correspond with full inward and outward motion of the handle bar grip is made at the junction of the control wire end and the throttle lever connection.

b. Adjust Fully Closed Throttle (fig. 43). See that there is about 1 inch distance between end of control wire housing and throttle lever when in fully closed position, so that housing end does not interfere with forward movement of throttle lever. If adjustment of control wire housing is necessary, refer to paragraph 101. Proceed with closed throttle adjustment.

(1) Loosen control wire clamp screw in connector block.

(2) Turn right handle bar grip outward as far as it will go: then turn it inward slightly. Holding throttle grip in this position, move throttle lever forward against its stop (closed position) and secure control wire in connector block with clamp screw. Check closing of throttle after tightening control wire set screw. If necessary, reset the control wire in the connector block until throttle is closed with full outward grip movement.

c. Adjust Fully Open Throttle (fig. 44). Follow instructions under step b above, then:

(1) Turn right handle bar grip inward as far as it will go and see that throttle lever is against its stop in fully open position. If throttle does not open fully when grip is turned inward, reset the control wire in the connector block to correct the adjustment.

70. CARBURETOR REMOVAL.

a. Remove Carburetor for Replacement Only.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Loosen connector block clamp screw and disconnect throttle control wire at throttle lever.

(3) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer nipple.

(4) Loosen air cleaner hose clamp at carburetor air intake fitting, and remove four screws and air intake fitting from carburetor.

(5) Remove the three mounting bolts (from right side of vehicle) which secure carburetor to manifold flange. CAUTION: Take care not to damage or lose gaskets found between carburetor flange and manifold flange, and/or ½–inch thick steel spacer fitted between carburetor and manifold on some models.

(6) Remove carburetor.

(7) Remove fuel strainer assembly from carburetor bowl nipple.

71. CARBURETOR INSTALLATION.

a. When installing carburetor be sure to fit the ½–inch thick steel spacer (if one was originally fitted) between carburetor and manifold flanges, with two gaskets on one side and one gasket on the other side. Later models have a longer manifold neck, extending carburetor farther to the left, away from cylinders, and do not need the spacer.

(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on bowl nipple. Leave coupling nut loose until after fuel pipe is connected.

(2) To install carburetor on manifold, locate carburetor flange and two gaskets (½–inch steel spacer and gaskets if originally fitted) to aline with holes in manifold flange, and insert and securely tighten the three carburetor mounting screws. Use a ⁷/₁₆–inch socket wrench, or a large screwdriver, to securely tighten these screws. NOTE: If carburetor manifold is loose in manifold packing nuts (carburetor can be lifted and manifold turns in packing nuts), tighten manifold nuts securely, using manifold wrench (41–W–1570–10).

(3) Insert carburetor air intake fitting into end of air hose and mount fitting on carburetor with the four screws. Tighten air hose clamp.

(4) Connect fuel pipe to fuel strainer nipple by tightening the union nut and also the strainer union nut on bowl nipple.

(5) Attach throttle control wire to throttle lever connector block and adjust (par. 69).

(6) Open fuel supply valve and observe for leaks.

(7) Adjust carburetor (par. 68).

72. FUEL STRAINER (fig. 45).

a. Cleaning.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Unscrew cap from bottom of strainer body.

(3) Lift strainer screen element with cork washer out of cap and clean thoroughly. Remove any dirt or sediment collected in cap. NOTE: If compressed air is not available for cleaning, gasoline from the fuel pipe can be used for cleaning screen and cap.

(4) Install one cork washer in bottom of cap, set strainer screen element in place, and locate the other cork washer over screen element. Turn cap with screen element and washers onto bottom of strainer body, handtight.

b. Remove Strainer Assembly.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer body nipple.

(3) Remove filter assembly from carburetor bowl nipple. It will be noted that coupling nut is an integral part of the filter body assembly.

c. Install Strainer Assembly.

(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on carburetor bowl nipple. Leave coupling nut loose until after fuel pipe is connected.

(2) Connect fuel pipe to strainer body nipple and tighten union nut. Strainer coupling nut can now be tightened on bowl nipple.

(3) Open fuel supply valve. Inspect fuel pipe and coupling nuts for leaks.

73. CARBURETOR BOWL CLEANING.

a. Water from fuel, water moisture, and dirt entering air cleaner will settle in bottom of carburetor bowl and will interfere with engine starting and carburetion. At periodic intervals bowl must be drained. NOTE: Before draining and flushing bowl, clean fuel strainer (par. 72).

(1) Support vehicle on jiffy (side) stand.

(2) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(3) Remove bowl drain screw. Let fuel, water, and dirt run out of bowl. With drain screw still removed, open fuel supply valve (turn to left) and leave open only a few seconds, to allow fresh gasoline to flush out bowl.

(4) Replace bowl drain screw, taking care to avoid thread crossing. Set screw snug, but not tight enough to strip the threads.

74. FUEL PIPE.

a. Remove.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Remove pipe union nut from tank nipple. Remove pipe after disconnecting union nut from fuel strainer body nipple.

b. Install. Fuel pipe must be installed without putting undue twist or strain on pipe or end fittings. Therefore, bend and/or shape pipe to “fit” between nipple connections before replacing and drawing up on union nuts.

(1) Connect lower end of pipe to fuel filter body nipple. Do not tighten nut.

(2) Connect upper end of pipe to tank nipple. Securely tighten this nut. Next, tighten union nut on strainer body nipple.

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a. Intake System. The air intake system consists of oil bath air cleaner, connecting air hose, and carburetor intake hose fitting. This system is located on left side of vehicle.

b. Exhaust System. The exhaust system consists of muffler and tailpiece assembly, front exhaust pipe assembly, and rear exhaust pipe. Exhaust pipe ends are a slip fit in cylinder exhaust ports.

76. AIR CLEANER (figs. 46 and 47).

a. General. Air cleaner should not be submerged in water, nor should high-pressure stream be directed into cleaner louvers (where air enters on rear of body) when cleaning vehicle. Either water or dirt entering air cleaner in excessive quantities will raise the oil level in oil cup and choke off proper air supply to carburetor.

b. Service. With vehicle in normal use on hard-surfaced roads, clean and refill air cleaner oil cup with engine oil (seasonal grade) at least each time engine oil tank is drained and refilled. CAUTION: Service more frequently under dusty conditions; daily under extremely dusty conditions. Check oil supply daily.

(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining spring clips to remove oil cup.

(2) If oil in cup is clean, with no signs of dirt and grit in oil or cup, but the oil level is below the indicated level mark, add engine oil (seasonal grade) to bring level up to mark. NOTE: If oil and cup are dirty, empty out oil and wash out cup with dry-cleaning solvent. Refill with clean engine oil (seasonal grade) to indicated level mark.

(3) Before installing oil cup make sure that the oil cup gasket is in place and in good condition.

(4) Check baffle plate thumb screw for tightness.

(5) Install oil cup, making sure that retaining spring clips are fully engaged in lip of oil cup and hold oil cup securely to cleaner body.

(6) Oil bath air cleaners on earlier models are of “round” type, oil cup being secured to body with a metal clamp band and thumb screw. When oil cup is removed on this type of cleaner, the baffle plate will come out with the cup. Make sure that baffle plate is correctly installed and that gasket is in place when installing cup.

c. Maintenance (fig. 47). The rectangular-type oil bath air cleaner is provided with two filter elements, retained in filter body by means of the baffle plate. If daily check reveals excessive accumulation of dirt and grit in oil and cup, filter elements must be removed and cleaned. NOTE: Check several times daily under extremely dusty or sandy conditions.

(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining spring clips; remove cup.

(2) Unscrew baffle plate thumb screw and remove baffle plate.

(3) Filter elements may “bind” in cleaner body. If so, rap side of body with hand to loosen them; or, if necessary, withdraw elements from body with pliers or a hooked wire.

(4) Check for presence and condition of gasket above the two filter elements (in filter body); also for oil cup gasket.

(5) Clean both filter elements thoroughly in dry-cleaning solvent. Allow elements to dry out (use air hose if available).

(6) Clean oil cup and refill to indicated level mark. Use clean engine oil (seasonal grade).

(7) Dip one screen surface of each filter element about ½ inch into oil in the oil cup (to “oil wet” filter pack). Install the two filter elements, baffle plate, and oil cup immediately after “oil wetting” the filter elements. Make sure gaskets are in place. NOTE: Do not add more oil to oil cup after elements have been dipped into it, because excess oil absorbed by elements will drip back into oil cup, bringing level back to normal.

(8) Round-type oil bath air cleaner used on earlier models does not have removable filter element. Complete cleaner body must be removed from vehicle, immersed and agitated in cleaning solvent to wash out dirt. After cleaning, allow filter element to dry (use air hose if available), then apply a few squirts of engine oil to inside of cleaner element, using oilcan. Refill cup, replace baffle plate and cup, securely tightening clamp band thumb screw.

77. HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING.

a. Remove. Carburetor intake and hose connection must be removed from carburetor to remove and/or install air hose.

(1) Loosen screws in the two hose clamps.

(2) Remove four screws retaining carburetor air intake fitting. Remove carburetor fitting from end of hose, and pull hose off air cleaner body connection.

b. Install. Before installing air hose, inspect for breaks or faulty condition that might prevent airtight seal between air cleaner and carburetor fitting.

(1) Install one end of hose on carburetor fitting. Do not tighten clamp screw.

(2) Install other end of hose on air cleaner connection. Do not tighten clamp screw.

(3) Install carburetor fitting. Securely tighten the four screws. Next, center air hose between carburetor fitting and air cleaner connection and securely tighten hose clamp screws.

78. REMOVE AIR CLEANER.

a. Loosen hose clamp screw at air cleaner body connection and remove two nuts and gear-toothed washers from bolts securing air cleaner assembly to frame bracket. NOTE: Gear-toothed lock washers are also used under heads of the two mounting bolts. Withdraw cleaner from end of air hose.

b. The same procedure applies to round-type air cleaners used on earlier models.

79. INSTALL AIR CLEANER.

a. Engage air cleaner hose connection in end of hose and mount cleaner assembly on frame bracket with two bolts, gear-toothed lock washers, and nuts. Securely tighten mounting nuts. NOTE: The plated (whitened) mounting bolts, four gear-toothed lock washers, and bolt nuts must effect a ground connection between bracket and filter mounting to insure adequate radio bonding. Tighten air hose clamp screw at cleaner body connection.

b. The same procedure applies to round-type air cleaners used on earlier models.

80. REPLACEMENT OF AIR CLEANER MOUNTING BRACKET.

a. Air cleaner mounting bracket and air cleaner can be removed or installed as an assembly.

b. Remove.

(1) Loosen hose clamp connection at air cleaner body.

(2) Disconnect battery ground wire. This prevents shorting battery when removing cleaner bracket clamp bolt.

(3) Remove the two upper cleaner bracket frame clamp bolts.

(4) Remove lower mounting bolt. Cleaner lower bracket mounting and clutch cable tube mounting are secured to frame bracket by the same whitened radio bonding bolt, gear-toothed lock washers, and nut. Remove nut and drop bolt to free cleaner bracket.

c. Install.

(1) Engage air hose and cleaner body connection.

(2) Attach lower bracket first. Locate cleaner bracket so that hole lines up with bolt holes in frame bracket and clutch cable tube mounting. Pass whitened radio bonding bolt upward through bracket hole, install shakeproof lock washer, and securely tighten nut.

(3) Attach bracket to the two upper frame clips. Tighten the clamp bolt nuts.

(4) Connect battery ground wire.

(5) Tighten air hose clamp screw at cleaner connection.

81. EXHAUST SYSTEM.

a. Remove Muffler Assembly.

(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.

(2) Remove bolt from end of hanger bracket on left side of vehicle, and remove bolt from muffler clamp and skid plate bracket on right side of vehicle. Drop skid plate.

(3) Loosen nut and bolt on clamp which secures front end of muffler at exhaust pipe connection (clamp is attached to muffler).

(4) Remove muffler rear hanger bracket bolt nut. Pull muffler assembly free from exhaust pipe connection.

b. Install Muffler Assembly.

(1) Engage muffler pipe and exhaust pipe at muffler pipe clamp connection. Do not tighten clamp bolt nut as yet.

(2) Attach muffler rear hanger bracket to frame bracket bolt, installing lock washer, and tightening nut. NOTE: It may be advisable to loosen hanger bracket on muffler so that muffler can be lined up for front end connection.

(3) Tighten muffler and exhaust pipe clamp bolt nut and rear hanger nut.

(4) Raise skid plate into position and install right side mounting bolt which secures muffler front bracket and skid plate bracket to frame clip. Tighten all mounting nuts.

c. Remove Exhaust Pipes.

(1) Refer to step a (1), (2), (3) above.

(2) Remove right side footboard and brake pedal assembly as follows: Loosen footboard rear support stud nut, remove front support stud nut, and pull footboard outward to free end of safety guard. Remove bolt which secures front exhaust pipe clamp, and remove nut from rear support rod, freeing stop light switch and rear end of footboard sidebar. Remove nut from front support rod, and drop footboard and brake foot pedal assembly to provide clearance for exhaust pipe removal. Disengage rear exhaust pipe at cylinder port, at same time prying and pulling front exhaust pipe forward and downward to free from cylinder port. Both exhaust pipes can now be worked downward and removed from vehicle as an assembly.

d. Install Exhaust Pipes.

(1) Position exhaust pipe (front and rear) assembly, working it into position so that front pipe end slips into cylinder port; then, pry and force rear pipe end into rear cylinder port.

(2) Mount footboard, brake foot pedal, and sidebar assembly on support rods, installing washer and nut on front support rod.

(3) Position and mount stop light switch on rear support rod. See that spring and operating control wire exert a straight pull on switch plunger when foot pedal is operated.

(4) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure front exhaust pipe clamp to footboard sidebar.

(5) To attach safety guard to sidebar, pull front end of footboard away from sidebar, line up holes in sidebar and safety guard end, then pass footboard support stud through both pieces, and secure with washer and nut.

(6) Tighten footboard rear support stud nut.

(7) To complete installation, follow procedure outlined in step b (1) through (4) above.

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a. The ignition system differs from that of the conventional automotive types in that it has no distributor. A circuit breaker alone is used. Both coil high-tension winding ends lead directly to both spark plugs. Thus both plugs spark at the same time, one cylinder being on compression stroke while the other cylinder is on exhaust stroke.

83. SPARK PLUGS.

a. Defective spark plugs are indicated by engine missing, overheating, knocking excessively, and lacking normal power.

b. Type. Spark plugs are medium heat range, manufacturer’s (H–D) No. 3.

c. Cleaning. Do not take plugs apart for cleaning. Use the sandblast cleaner method.

d. Point Adjustment. Bend electrode located in plug base to adjust point gap 0.025 inch to 0.030 inch.

e. Replacement. Use spark plug wrench (41–W–3334) to install plugs, using new gaskets. Never draw a cool plug up tight in a hot cylinder head, rather turn down snug and wait l/2 minute until plug base is warm: then tighten securely. CAUTION: Take care not to cross-thread when installing spark plug.

84. CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS (fig. 49).

a. Circuit breaker lever is insulated from ground and connects to primary wire binding post by means of a “pig-tail” wire. Stationary point is grounded to timer base and is movable in order to adjust circuit breaker points. Circuit breaker points that are burned or pitted should be renewed or dressed with a clean fine-cut, contact point file. The file should not be used on other metals and should not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. CAUTION: Never use emery cloth to clean points. Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may not appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily an indication that they are not functioning satisfactorily.

b. Remove Breaker Lever.

(1) To disconnect condenser terminal, remove nut from end of condenser and remove gear-toothed washer, plain washer, and the brass terminal strip. Do not remove fiber washer and plain washer located back of brass terminal strip on condenser terminal post.

(2) Bend brass terminal strip down and remove binding nut which secures brass terminal strip and breaker lever “pig-tail” to primary wire binding post.

(3) Compress breaker lever spring at end of lever, disengaging spring. CAUTION: Do not lose spring. Release and remove lever from insulated pivot post.

c. Remove Adjustable Contact Point.

(1) Remove the two lock screws and washer plate, securing adjustable contact point assembly to timer base. Point assembly is free to be lifted off lever pivot stud.

d. Install Adjustable Contact Point.

(1) Install contact point assembly, replacing washer plate and the two lock screws. Do not tighten lock screws until circuit breaker points are adjusted (step f below).

e. Install Breaker Lever.

(1) Install brass terminal strip on primary wire binding post.

(2) Connect end of brass terminal strip to condenser terminal post. Install flat washer, gear-toothed washer, and nut.

(3) Install breaker lever on pivot post insulated bearing.

(4) Install breaker lever spring. Make sure that ends of spring are retained correctly.

(5) NOTE: Keep breaker lever cam very lightly greased.

f. Adjusting Circuit Breaker Points (fig. 51).

(1) Correct point gap is 0.022 inch. Circuit breaker point faces must seat squarely against each other. If bent, square up and aline by bending contact plate. Turn timer breaker cam until breaker lever fiber is located on highest point of cam.

(2) With the adjustable point lock screws loose, shift the adjustable point plate to obtain a 0.022–inch gap between the circuit breaker points. Measure gap with an accurate thickness gage before retightening lock screws, and again recheck point gap after tightening the lock screws. NOTE: Wrong circuit breaker point gap affects ignition timing.

85. CONDENSER.

a. The condenser is connected in parallel with the circuit breaker points, one of its terminals being grounded (for the adjustable point) to the timer base by means of the mounting screw, the other terminal making connection with the circuit breaker lever (for the lever point) by means of the lever “pig-tail.”

b. Remove.

(1) Unlatch circuit breaker cover retainer and remove cover.

(2) Remove nut from end of condenser and remove gear-toothed washer, plain washer, and the brass terminal strip. NOTE: A small plain washer and a large fiber washer are located behind brass terminal strip.

(3) Remove screw which secures condenser to timer base. Remove condenser.

c. Install.

(1) Mount condenser on timer housing. Install lock washer and screw. Make sure small plain washer and large fiber washer are in place on condenser end terminal screw before connecting the brass terminal strip.

(2) Connect brass terminal strip to condenser. Replace plain washer, gear-toothed washer and terminal nut.

(3) Install circuit breaker cover.

86. CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER ASSEMBLY (figs. 50 and 51).

a. When the circuit breaker timer shaft and base assembly must be replaced due to excessive wear in timer shaft bearing, sheared worm gear pin, and/or worn or damaged worm gear, engine ignition must be retimed. Ignition timing for the V-type twin engine is difficult and should be attempted only by experienced personnel.

b. Remove (fig. 50). Before the timer shaft and base assembly can be removed, the circuit breaker timer head assembly must be removed. NOTE: If the timer head only, or timer wire, is to be replaced, it is not necessary to remove timer shaft and base assembly, and thus throw engine ignition out of time.

(1) Remove timer head cover.

(2) Unlatch cover retainer ends from holes in the timer head and remove.

(3) Disconnect spark control wire at timer lever.

(4) Lift the timer head assembly off base. The head seating tension (ground) spring (underneath shaft base) is also free, and can now be removed. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect timer to coil wire from timer head terminal post, unless head or wire is being replaced.

(5) Remove the two timer base mounting screws and lock washers. It will be noted that one screw grounds the timer to coil wire shielding.

(6) Timer shaft and base assembly can now be lifted out of engine gear case cover. Take care not to damage or misplace base gasket.

c. Install Timer Shaft and Base Assembly and Timing Ignition (fig. 51). This calls for retiming engine ignition as follows: (NOTE: Circuit breaker cam turns in clockwise direction):

(1) Unscrew and raise front cylinder inlet valve spring cover, using tappet wrench (41–W–3617).

(2) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until valve tappet indicates front cylinder is on compression stroke (directly after front cylinder intake valve closes).

(3) Remove plug from timing inspection hole in left-side crankcase.

(4) Continue turning engine slowly until flywheel timing mark is in center of inspection hole (fig. 51). Do not turn engine further.

(5) Install paper gasket and timer head tension (ground) spring on timer shaft base assembly. Make sure bent ends of tension spring are facing downward (away from timer base).

(6) Insert timer shaft and base assembly all the way down into place in timing gear case cover, trying to locate mark on small end of breaker cam in position shown in figure 51. Do not install base mounting screws as yet.

(7) Install timer head assembly so that spark control lever is within the advance and retard quadrant (fig. 51). NOTE: Do not install cover retainer until later.

(8) Fully advance spark lever (push inward toward engine) and observe how closely mark on breaker cam lines up with breaker lever fiber. If mark does not line up, lift timer base and turn shaft gear so its engagement with its driving gear is changed one tooth. Check again according to breaker cam mark and breaker lever fiber. Repeat this procedure until gear engagement is obtained which closely alines cam mark and breaker lever fiber.

(9) See that timer base is turned so that timer to coil wire is toward rear of engine.

(10) Install timer base screws and lock washers. Make sure that timer to coil wire shielding is grounded under head of screw farthest away from engine (fig. 52). Securely tighten screws.

(11) Install timer head on base and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Be sure ground spring is in its proper place so that when cover retainer ends are fitted through holes in the timer head, they will also fit into spring locating notches. It will be necessary to press ground spring upward under timer base to engage retainer ends in the spring notches. NOTE: If cover retainer ends do not engage ground spring notches, spring will have no tension and timer head will be loose on its base. Circuit breaker points and condenser are electrically grounded through timer base, and ground spring holds the head and base in close contact, thus assuring a good ground.

(12) Connect spark control wire and timer lever and adjust (par. 88).

(13) Engine is now timed according to original factory setting, providing mark on side of timer head and hole in head adjusting band are still in alinement, and circuit breaker point gap is 0.022 inch. Even though all ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as outlined in the foregoing instructions, it is advisable to accurately check ignition timing (step d following).

d. Recommended Recheck of Ignition Timing (fig. 51). Even though all ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as when engine was originally timed, ignition timing may change somewhat after engine has been in service for a while, due to normal wear and seating of the various moving parts that can affect ignition timing. Since accurate ignition timing is the first essential to good engine performance, it is advisable to check ignition timing on new vehicle after first 1,500 miles of service, and at each 2,000 miles thereafter.

(1) See that circuit breaker points are adjusted for correct gap of 0.022 inch (par. 84 f).

(2) Advance timer lever fully (toward engine).

(3) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until front cylinder is on compression stroke, and continue to turn it ahead slowly until narrow timer cam (the end with the timing mark), just starts to open the circuit breaker points.

(4) An accurate test light check as to when points just start to break can be made, using the instrument panel red light for the purpose. Disconnect panel light wire from the oil pressure switch, attaching this wire to the insulated terminal post on timer head. Turn ignition and light switch on. As long as circuit breaker points are closed, lamp will remain lit; as points start to open, lamp will go out. NOTE: After making use of instrument panel red light for above purpose, reconnect wire to oil pressure switch.

(5) When exact position is found, where points just start to open, flywheel mark should be in the center of the inspection hole.

(6) If flywheel mark is not in center of hole when points open, readjust ignition timing as necessary (slower or faster) by means of the timer head and band adjustment.

(7) To readjust timer head, loosen adjusting band screw and shift timer head in band. If flywheel timing mark shows forward of center in inspection hole, the timing is slow. To correct, shift timer head counterclockwise against rotation of breaker cam. If flywheel mark is to rear of center of inspection hole, timing is fast and timer head must be shifted with rotation (clockwise) of breaker cam, to correct timing.

(8) With ignition timing correct, front cylinder piston is 9/32 inch before top dead center, on compression stroke, when circuit breaker points just start to open. At this point spark occurs, igniting front cylinder fuel charge.

(9) Install flywheel inspection hole plug in left crankcase.

87. COIL TO TIMER WIRE (figs. 52 and 53).

a. Models provided with radio shielding are identified by “S” on either side of instrument panel. The coil to timer wire (low-tension wire) on these models is shielded for radio noise suppression.

b. Remove.

(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.

(2) Remove the two bolts which secure upper end of air cleaner bracket to frame tube. Swing air cleaner and bracket outward and forward to gain access to spark coil rear terminal.

(3) Disconnect coil to timer wire terminal from coil rear connection. Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground connection.

(4) Refer to paragraph 86 b (1) to (4) for timer head removal.

(5) Remove timer base mounting screw which secures wire shielding (fig. 52).

(6) Note position of coil to timer wire inside of timer head; then remove nut washer connecting wire to insulated contact stud.

(7) Work old wire and loom out of timer head hole and free from vehicle.

(8) On earlier models, the coil to timer wire was soldered to end of insulated stud. Removal of stud is necessary to remove this wire, or replace it with a shielded wire. Note location of stud insulations on inside and outside of timer head, for correct installation when reassembling.

c. Install.

(1) Pass end of wire, shield terminal, and loom up through hole in timer base.

(2) Ground the wire shield terminal under head of timer base mounting screw (fig. 52).

(3) Connect wire end terminal to insulated stud so that wire leads away from stud in direction shown (fig. 52).

(4) Pass coil to timer wire up alongside and to rear of frame saddle post tube to reach rear of spark coil.

(5) Ground the wire shield terminal to coil rear ground connection (fig. 53).

(6) Connect wire terminal to coil rear primary connection (fig. 53).

(7) Install timer head on base (par. 86 c (11)).

(8) Connect spark control wire to timer lever and adjust (par. 88).

(9) Connect battery negative post wire to frame ground terminal.

(10) Swing air cleaner bracket back into place and install two bolts, washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clips.

(11) Replace timer cover and check engine for starting.

88. ADJUST SPARK CONTROL.

a. Spark advance and retard is controlled by left handle bar grip. Spark lever operates within a quadrant mounted on engine. Spark must be fully advanced (lever inward toward engine) when handle bar grip is turned inward to full extent of its travel. When handle bar grip is turned outward, spark lever retards (lever outward away from engine).

(1) With control wire in lever stud and clamp screw loose, turn left grip fully inward; then back it out just a little.

(2) Shift spark lever inward toward engine as far as it will go; then tighten control wire clamp screw. Test by turning left grip fully inward and noting position of spark lever. It should be against inner side of quadrant (fig. 51). Retard spark and check position of lever within quadrant; it should be against outer side of quadrant.

(3) Check final adjustment. Readjust full advance and retard timer lever positions as necessary when left grip is turned inward, and outward, respectively.

89. SPARK COIL (fig. 54).

a. Spark coil high-tension cables go directly to the spark plugs, no distributor being used. When the coil is faulty, it must be replaced, since internal repairs are not possible. The high-tension cables can be replaced, however. Coil is provided with a condenser for radio noise suppression, and metal coil case is grounded to engine by bonding.

b. Remove.

(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire from frame connection.

(2) Free high-tension cable ends (with radio noise suppressors) from spark plugs. Free front cylinder high-tension cable from clip at upper engine frame mounting.

(3) Loosen air intake hose connection at carburetor fitting.

(4) Remove two nuts, washers, and bolts securing upper end of air cleaner mounting bracket to frame clamps.

(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly outward to gain access to coil rear terminals.

(6) Disconnect coil to timer wire from coil rear terminal screw. Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground terminal (fig. 53).

(7) Swing cleaner back and remove wire connections from coil front terminal screw (fig. 54).

(8) Disconnect radio bonding at coil front ground terminal (fig. 54).

(9) Remove nuts and bolts which mount coil to bracket. Coil is now free for removal.

c. Install.

(1) Mount coil on frame bracket with high-tension cables upward, and reinstall mounting bolts, lock washers, and nuts. Tighten nuts.

(2) Connect terminals of the two green wires to coil front terminal screw. Refer to wiring diagram, figure 48.

(3) Connect radio bonding to coil front ground terminal. Tighten nut securely.

(4) Connect coil to timer wire terminal to coil rear terminal screw. Connect wire shielding to coil rear ground terminal. Tighten nut securely.

(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly back in place and install two bolts, lock washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clamps. Tighten nuts securely.

(6) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection.

(7) Pass front cylinder high-tension wire under tank, secure in cable clip at upper engine frame mounting, and attach cable end (radio noise suppressor) to front spark plug. Attach rear high-tension cable end (radio noise suppressor) to rear spark plug.

(8) Check wiring connections (fig. 48) and test coil by engine starting.

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8—GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT

12—BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL

13—BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL (GROUND)

14—“SWITCH” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR

15—“RELAY” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR

18—FRONT JUNCTION TERMINAL

26—IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH

32—CUT-OUT RELAY

*H—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER

RA PD 317200
Figure 55—Generator to Battery Wiring Diagram