TARGET PRACTICE.

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Section 1. Preliminary training in markmanship.

Effective rifle fire is generally what counts most in battle. To have effective rifle fire, the men on the firing line must be able to HIT what they are ordered to shoot at. There is no man who can not be taught how to shoot. It is not necessary or even desirable to begin instruction by firing on a rifle range. A perfectly green recruit who has never fired a rifle may be made into a good shot by a little instruction and some preliminary drills and exercises.

Before a man goes on the range to fire it is absolutely necessary that he should know--

1. How to set the rear sight.

2. How to sight or aim.

3. How to squeeze the trigger.

4. How to hold the rifle in all positions.

If he does not know these things it is worse than useless for him to fire. He will not improve; the more he shoots the worse he will shoot, and it will become more difficult to teach him.

Section 2. Sight Adjustment.

Men must be able to adjust their sights correctly and quickly. An error in adjustment so small that one can scarcely see it on the sight leaf is sufficient to cause a miss at an enemy at 500 yards and over.

Notice your rear sight. When the leaf is laid down the battle sight appears on top. This sight is set for 547 yards and is not adjustable. When the leaf is raised four sights come into view. The extreme range sight for 2,850 yards at the top of the leaf is seldom used. The open sight at the upper edge of the drift slide is adjustable from 1,400 to 2,750 yards. To set it the upper edge of the slide is made to correspond with the range reading on the leaf, and the slide is then clamped with the slide screw. This sight also is seldom used. The open sight at the bottom of the triangular opening in the drift slide is adjustable from 100 to 2,450 yards. To set it the index line at the lower corners of the triangle is set opposite the range graduation on the leaf and the slide clamped. This and the peep sight just below it are the sights most commonly used. To set the peep sight, the index lines on either side of the peephole are set opposite the range desired and the slide clamped.

Notice the scales for the various ranges on either side of the face of the leaf. The odd-numbered hundreds of yards are on the right and the even on the left. The line below the number is the index line for that range. Thus to set the sight for 500 yards the index line of the slide is brought in exact line with the line on the leaf below the figure 5 and the slide clamped. To set for 550 yards the index lines of the slide are set half way between the index lines on the leaf below the figure 5 on the right side and the figure 6 on the left side. Look at your sight carefully when setting it and take great pains to get it exact. An error in setting the width of one of the lines on the leaf will cause an error of about 8 inches in where your bullet will strike at 500 yards.

The wind guage is adjusted by means of the windage screw at the right front end of the base of the sight. Each graduation on the wind-gauge scale is called a "point." For convenience in adjusting the line of each third point on the scale is longer than the others. If you turn the windage screw so that the movable base moves to the right, you are taking right windage, which will cause your rifle to shoot more to the right.

It is seldom that a rifle will shoot correctly to the point aimed at at a given range with the sights adjusted exactly to the scale graduations for that range. If your sight is not correctly adjusted for your shooting and you wish to move it slightly to make it correct, remember to move it in the direction you wish your shot to hit. If you wish to shoot higher raise your sight. If to the right, move the wind gauge to the right. Always move your sight the correct amount in accordance with the following table:

Section 3. Table of sight corrections.

Showing to what extent the point of impact is moved by a change of 25 yards in elevation or 1 point in windage.

An easy rule to remember the windage correction by is: "A change of 1 point of wind changes the point of impact 4 inches for every 100 yards of range."

Copy this table and take it to the range with you.

Example of sight adjustment: Suppose you are firing at 500 yards. The first two or three shots show you that your shots are hitting about a foot below and a foot to the right of the center of the bull's-eye. From the above table you will see that if you will raise your sight 50 yards and move the wind gauge half a point to the left the rifle will be sighted so that if you aim correctly the bullets will hit well inside the bull's eye.

Section 4. Aiming.

Open sight: Always align your sights with the front sight squarely in the middle of the "U" or notch of the rear sight, and the top of the front sight even with the upper corners of the "U." (See fig. 1.) All the sights on the rifle except the peep sight are open sights.

Peep sight: Always center the tip of the front sight in the center of the peephole when aiming with this sight. (See fig. 2.)

Always aim below the bull's-eye. Never let your front sight appear to touch the bull's-eye in aiming. Try to see the same amount of white target between the top of the front sight and the bottom of the bull's-eye each time. The eye must be focused on the bull's-eye or mark and not on the front or rear sight.

Look at figures 1 and 2 until your eye retains the memory of them, then try to duplicate the picture every time you aim. Aim consistently, always the same. Never change your aim; change your sight adjustment if your shots are not hitting in the right place.

Section 5. Battle sight.

The battle sight is the open sight seen when the leaf is laid flat. It is adjusted for a range of 547 yards. It is intended to be used in battle, when you get nearer to the enemy than 600 yards. Always aim at the belt of a standing enemy, or just below him if he is kneeling, sitting, or lying. On the target range this sight is used for rapid fire. With it the rifle shoots about 2 feet high at ranges between 200 and 400 yards, so you must aim

Fig. 18

Figure 2.

below the figure on the target "D." Find out in four instruction practice just how much you must aim below to hit the figure.

Section 6. Trigger squeeze.

Use the first joint of the fore finger to squeeze the trigger. It is the most sensitive and best controlled portion of the body. As you place the rifle to your shoulder squeeze the trigger so as to pull it back about one-eighth of an inch, thus taking up the safety portion, or slack, of the pull. Then contract the trigger finger gradually, slowly and steadily increasing the pressure on the trigger while the aim is being perfected. Continue the gradual increase of pressure so that when the aim has become exact the additional pressure required to release the point of the sear can be given almost insensibly and without causing any deflection of the rifle. Put absolutely all your mind and will power into holding the rifle steady and squeezing the trigger off without disturbing the aim. Practice squeezing the trigger in this way every time you have your rifle in your hand until you can surely and quickly do it without a suspicion of a jerk.

By practice the soldier becomes familiar with the trigger squeeze of his rifle, and knowing this, he is able to judge at any time, within limits, what additional pressure is required for its discharge. By constant repetition of this exercise he should be able finally to squeeze the trigger to a certain point beyond which the slightest movement will release the sear. Having squeezed the trigger to this point, the aim is corrected, and, when true, the additional pressure is applied and the discharge follows and the bullet flies true to the mark.

Section 7. Firing positions.

When in ranks at close order the positions are those described in the Infantry Drill Regulations. When in extended order, or when firing alone, these positions may be modified somewhat to better suit the individual. The following remarks on the various positions are offered as suggestions whereby steady positions may be learned by the soldier.

Standing position: Face the target, then execute right half face. Plant the feet about 12 inches apart. As you raise the ride to the shoulder lean very slightly backward just enough to preserve the perfect balance on both feet which the raising of the rifle has somewhat disturbed. Do not lean far back, and do not lean forward at all. If your body is out of balance it will be under strain and you will tremble. The right elbow should be at about the height of the shoulder. The left hand should grasp well around the stock and handguard in front of the rear sight, and the left elbow should be almost directly under the rifle. The right hand should do more than half the work of holding the rifle up and against the shoulder, the left hand only steadying and guiding the piece. Do not try to meet the recoil; let the whole body move back with it. Do not be afraid to press the jaw hard against the stock; this steadies the position, and the head goes back with the recoil and insures that your face is not hurt.

Kneeling position: Assume the position very much as described in the Infantry Drill Regulations. Sit on the right heel. The right knee should point directly to the right, that is, along the firing line. The point of the left elbow should rest over the left knee. There is a flat place under the elbow which fits a flat place on the knee and makes a solid rest. Lean the body well forward. This position is uncomfortable until practiced, when it quickly ceases to be uncomfortable.

Sitting position: Sit down half faced to the right, feet from 6 to 8 inches apart, knees bent, right knee slightly higher than the left, left leg pointed toward the target. Rest both elbows on the knees, hands grasping the piece the same as in the prone position. This is a very steady position, particularly if holes can be found or made in the ground for the heels.

Prone position and use of the gun sling: To adjust the sling for firing, unhook the straight strap of the sling and let it out as far as it will go. Adjust the loop so that when stretched along the bottom of the stock its rear end (bight) comes about opposite the comb of the stock. A small man needs a longer loop than a tall man. Lie down facing at an angle of about 60° to the right of the direction of the target. Spread the legs as wide apart as they will go with comfort. Thrust the left arm through between the rifle and the sling, and then back through the loop of the sling, securing the loop, by means of the keeper, around the upper left arm as high up as it will go. Pass the hand under and then over the sling from the left side, and grasp the stock and handguard just in rear of the lower band. Raise the right elbow off the ground, rolling slightly over on the left side. Place the butt to the shoulder and roll back into position, clamping the rifle hard and steady in the firing position. The rifle should rest deep down in the palm of the left hand with fingers almost around the handguard. Shift the left palm a little to the right or left until the rifle stands perfectly upright (no cant) without effort. The left elbow should rest on the ground directly under the rifle, and right elbow on the ground about 5 inches to the right of a point directly under the stock. In this position the loop of the sling, starting at the lower band, passes to the right of the left wrist, and thence around the left upper arm. The loop should be so tight that about 50 pounds tension is placed on it when the position is assumed. This position is uncomfortable until practiced, when it quickly ceases to be uncomfortable. It will be steadier if small holes can be found or dug in the ground for the elbows. In this position the sling binds the left forearm to the rifle and to the ground so that it forms a dead rest for the rifle, with a universal joint, the wrist, at its upper end. Also the rifle is so bound to the shoulder that the recoil is not felt at all. This is the steadiest of all firing positions.

The gun sling can also be used in this manner with advantage in the other positions.

Section 8. Calling the shot.

It is evident that the sights should be so adjusted at each range that the rifle will hit where you aim. In order to determine that the sights are so adjusted it is necessary that you shall know each time just where you were aiming on the target at the instant your rifle was discharged. If you know this and your rifle hits this point your rifle is correctly sighted. If your shot does not hit near this point, you should change your sight adjustment in accordance with the table of sight corrections in section 3.

No man can hold absolutely steady. The rifle trembles slightly, and the sights seem to wobble and move over the target. You try to squeeze off the last ounce of the trigger squeeze just as the sights move to the desired alignment under the bull's-eye. At this instant, just before the recoil blots out a view of the sights and target, you should catch with your eye a picture, as it were, of just where on the target your sights were aligned, and call to yourself or to the coach this point. This point is where your shot should strike if your sights are correctly adjusted, and if you have squeezed the trigger without disturbing your aim. Until a man can call his shots he is not a good shot, for he can never tell if his rifle is sighted right or not, or if a certain shot is a good one or only the result of luck.

Section 9. Coordination.

Good marksmanship consists in learning thoroughly the details of--

And, when these have been mastered in detail, then the coordination of them in the act of firing. This coordination consists in putting absolutely all of one's will power into an effort to hold the rifle steadily, especially in getting it to steady down when the aim is perfected; in getting the trigger squeezed off easily at the instant the rifle is steadiest and the aim perfected; in calling the shot at this instant; and, if the shot does not hit near the point called, then in adjusting the sights the correct amount so that the rifle will be sighted to hit where you aim.

Section 10. Advice to riflemen.

Before going to the range clean the rifle carefully, removing every trace of oil from the bore. This can best be done with a rag saturated with gasoline. Put a light coat of oil on the bolt and cams. Blacken the front and rear sights with smoke from a burning candle or camphor or with liquid sight black.

Look through the bore and see that there is no obstruction in it.

Keep the rifle off the ground; the stock may absorb dampness, the sights may be injured, or the muzzle filled with dirt.

Watch your hold carefully and be sure to know where the line of sight is at discharge. It is only in this way that the habit of calling shots, which is essential to good shooting, can be acquired.

Study the conditions, adjust the sling, and set the sight before going to the firing point.

Look at the sight adjustment before each shot and see that it has not changed.

If sure of your hold and if the hit is not as called, determine and make FULL correction in elevation and windage to put the next shot in the bull's-eye.

Keep a written record of the weather conditions and the corresponding elevation and windage for each day's firing.

Less elevation will generally be required on hot days; on wet days; in a bright sunlight; with a 6 o'clock wind; or with a cold barrel.

More elevation will generally be required on cold days; on very dry days; with a 12 o'clock wind; with a hot barrel; in a dull or cloudy light.

The upper band should not be tight enough to bind the barrel.

Do not put a cartridge into the chamber until ready to fire. Do not place cartridges in the sun. They will get hot and shoot high.

Do not rub the eyes--especially the sighting eye.

In cold weather warm the trigger hand before shooting.

After shooting, clean the rifle carefully and then oil it to prevent rust.

Have a strong, clean cloth that will not tear and jam, properly cut to size, for use in cleaning.

Always clean the rifle from the breech, using a brass cleaning rod when available. An injury to the rifling at the muzzle causes the piece to shoot very irregularly.

Regular physical exercise, taken systematically, will cause a marked improvement in shooting.

Frequent practice of the "Position and aiming drills" is of the greatest help in preparing for shooting on the range.

Rapid firing: Success is rapid firing depends upon catching a quick and accurate aim, holding the piece firmly and evenly, and in squeezing the trigger without a jerk.

In order to give as much time as possible for aiming accurately, the soldier must practice taking position, loading with the clip, and working the bolt, so that no time will be lost in these operations. With constant practice all these movements may be made quickly and without false motions.

When the bolt handle is raised, it must be done with enough force to start the shell from the chamber; and when the bolt is pulled back, it must be with sufficient force to throw the empty shell well away from the chamber and far enough to engage the next cartridge.

In loading, use force enough to load each cartridge with one motion.

The aim must be caught quickly, and, once caught, must be held and the trigger squeezed steadily. Rapid firing, as far as holding, aim, and squeezing the trigger are concerned, should be done with all the precision of slow fire. The gain in time should be in getting ready to fire, loading, and working the bolt.

Firing with rests: In order that the shooting may be uniform the piece should always be rested at the same point.

Section 11. The course in small-arms firing.

The course in small-arms firing consists of--

(a) Nomenclature and care of rifle.

(b) Sighting drills.

(c) Position and aiming drills.

(d) Deflection and elevation correction drills.

(e) Gallery practice.

(f) Estimating distance drill.

(g) Individual known-distance firing, instruction practice.

(h) Individual known-distance firing, record practice.

(i) Long-distance practice.

(j) Practice with telescopic sights.

(k) Instruction combat practice.

(l) Combat practice.

(m) Proficiency test.

The regulations governing these are found in Small Arms Firing Manual, 1913. There should be several copies of this manual in every company.

Section 12. Targets.

The accompanying plates show the details and size of the targets:

[Footnote 8: Whenever in these regulations the word "pistol" appears the regulation applies with equal force to the revolver, if applicable to that weapon.]

135.[9] Nomenclature and care of the weapon; handling and precautions against accidents.--The soldier will first be taught the nomenclature of those parts of the weapon necessary to an understanding of its action and use and the proper measures for its care and preservation. Ordnance pamphlets Nos. 1866 (description of the Colt's automatic pistol), 1919, and 1927 (description of the Colt's revolver, calibers .38 and .45, respectively) contain full information on this subject, and are furnished to organizations armed with these weapons.

[Footnote 9: The number refer to paragraphs in the Small Arms Firing Manual, 1918.]

Careless handling of the pistol or revolver is the cause of many accidents and results in broken parts of the mechanism. The following rules will, if followed, prevent much trouble of this character:

(a) On taking the pistol from the armrack or holster, take out the magazine and see that it is empty before replacing it; then draw back the slide and make sure that the piece is unloaded. Observe the same precaution after practice on the target range, and again before replacing the pistol in the holster or in the armrack. When taking the revolver from the armrack or holster and before returning it to the same, open the cylinder and eject empty shells and cartridges. Before beginning a drill and upon arriving on the range observe the same precaution.

(b) Neither load nor cock the weapon until the moment of firing, nor until a run in the mounted course is started.

(c) Always keep the pistol or revolver in the position of "Raise pistol" (par. 146, Cavalry Drill Regulations, 1916), except when it is pointed at the target. (The position of "Lower pistol" is authorized for mounted firing only.)

(d) Do not place the weapon on the ground where sand or earth can enter the bore or mechanism.

(e) Before loading the pistol, draw back the slide and look through the bore to see that it is free from obstruction. Before loading the revolver, open the cylinder and look through the bore to see that it is free from obstruction. When loading[10] the pistol for target practice place five cartridges in the magazine and insert the magazine in the handle; draw back the slide and insert the first cartridge in the chamber and carefully lower[11] the hammer fully down.

[Footnote 10: TO LOAD PISTOL: Being at raise pistol (right hand grasping stock at the height of and 6 inches in front of the point of the right shoulder, forefinger alongside barrel, barrel to the rear and inclined forward about 30°).

Without deranging position of the hand, rotate the pistol so the sights move to the left, the barrel pointing to the right front and up.

With the thumb and forefinger of the left hand (thumb to the right) grasp the slide and pull it toward the body until it stops, and then release it. The pistol is thus loaded, and the hammer at full cock.

If the pistol is to be kept in the hand and not to be fired at once, engage the safety lock with the thumb of the right hand.

If the pistol is to be carried in the holster, remove safety lock, if on, and lower the hammer fully down.]

[Footnote 11: TO LOWER THE HAMMER: Being at the loading position at full cock.

I. Firmly seat thumb of right hand on the hammer: insert forefinger inside trigger guard.

II. With thumb of left hand exert a momentary pressure on the grip-safety to release hammer from sear.

III. At the same instant exert pressure or the trigger and carefully and slowly lower the hammer fully down.

IV. Remove finger from trigger.

V. Insert pistol in holster.

CAUTION.--The pistol must never be placed in the holster until hammer is fully down.]

In loading the revolver place five cartridges in the cylinder and let the hammer down on the empty chamber.

(f) Whenever the pistol is being loaded or unloaded, the muzzle must be kept up.

(g) Do not point the weapon in any direction where an accidental discharge might do harm.

(h) After loading do not cock the pistol or the revolver until ready to fire.

(i) Keep the working parts properly lubricated.

136. Position, dismounted.--Stand firmly on both feet, body perfectly balanced and erect and turned at such an angle as is most comfortable when the arm is extended toward the target; the feet far enough apart to insure firmness and steadiness or position (about 8 to 10 inches); weight of body borne equally upon both feet; right arm fully extended, left arm hanging naturally.

REMARKS.--The right arm may be slightly bent, although the difficulty of holding the pistol uniformly and of keeping it as well as the forearm in the same vertical plane makes this objectionable.

137. The grip.--Grasp the stock as high as possible with the thumb and last three fingers, the forefinger alongside the trigger guard, the thumb extended along the stock. The barrel, hand, and forearm should be as nearly in one line as possible when the weapon is pointed toward the target. The grasp should not be so tight as to cause tremors of the hand or arm to be communicated to the weapon, but should be firm enough to avoid losing the grip when the recoil takes place.

REMARKS.--The force of recoil of the pistol or revolver is exerted in a line above the hand which grasps the stock. The lower the stock is grasped the greater will be the movement or "jump" of the muzzle caused by the recoil. This not only results in a severe strain upon the wrist, but in loss of accuracy.

If the hand be placed so that the grasp is on one side of the stock, the recoil will cause a rotary movement of the weapon toward the opposite side.

The releasing of the sear causes a slight movement of the muzzle, generally to the left. The position of the thumb along the stock overcomes much of this movement. The soldier should be encouraged to practice this method of holding until it becomes natural.

To do uniform shooting the weapon must be held with exactly the same grip for each shot. Not only must the hand grasp the stock at the same point for each shot, but the tension of the grip must be uniform.

138. (a) The trigger squeeze.--The trigger must be squeezed in the same manner as in rifle dring. (See Chapter VIII, section 6.) The pressure of the forefinger on the trigger should be steadily increased and should be straight back, not sideways. The pressure should continue to that point beyond which the slightest movement will release the sear. Then, when the aim is true, the additional pressure is applied and the pistol fired.

Only by much practice can the soldier become familiar with the trigger squeeze. This is essential to accurate shooting. It is the most important detail to master in pistol or revolver shooting.

(b) Self-cocking action.--The force required to squeeze the trigger of the revolver when the self-cocking device is used is considerably greater than with the single action. To accustom a soldier to the use of the self-cocking mechanism, and also to strengthen and develop the muscles of the hand, a few minutes practice daily in holding the unloaded revolver on a mark and snapping it, using the self-cocking mechanism, is recommended. The use of the self-cocking device in firing is not recommended except in emergency. By practice in cocking the revolver the soldier can become sufficiently expert to fire very rapidly, using single action, while his accuracy will be greater than when using double action.

139. Aiming.--Except when delivering rapid or quick fire, the rear and front sights of the pistol are used in the same manner as the rifle sights. The normal sight is habitually used (see Pl. VI), and the line of sight is directed upon a point just under the bull's-eye at "6 o'clock." The front sight must be seen through the middle of the rear-sight notch, the top being on a line with the top of the notch. Care must be taken not to cant the pistol to either side.[12]

[Footnote 12: The instructor should take cognizance of the fact that the proper aiming point is often affected by the personal and fixed peculiarities of the firer, and if unable to correct such abnormalities, permit firer to direct sight at such point as promises effective results.]

If the principles of aiming have not been taught, the soldier's instruction will begin with sighting drills as prescribed for the rifle so far as they may be applicable. The sighting bar with open sight will be used to teach the normal sight and to demonstrate errors likely to be committed.

To construct a sighting rest for the pistol (see Pl. VI) take a piece of wood about 10 inches long, 1-1/4 inches wide, and 9/16 inch thick. Shape one end so that it will fit snugly in the handle of the pistol when the magazine has been removed. Screw or nail this stick to the top of a post or other object at such an angle that the pistol when placed on the stick will be approximately horizontal. A suitable sighting rest for the revolver may be easily improvised.

140. (a) How to cock the pistol.--The pistol should be cocked by the thumb of the right hand and with the least possible derangement of the grip. The forefinger should be clear of the trigger when cocking the pistol. Some men have difficulty at first in cocking the pistol with the right thumb. This can be overcome by a little practice. Jerking the pistol forward while holding the thumb on the hammer will not be permitted.

(b) How to cock the revolver.--The revolver should be cocked by putting the thumb on the hammer at as nearly a right angle to the hammer as possible, and by the action of the thumb muscles alone bringing the hammer back to the position of full cock. Some men with large hands are able to cock the revolver with the thumb while holding it in the position of aim or raise pistol. Where the soldier's hand is small this can not be done, and in this case it assists the operation to give the revolver a slight tilt to the right and upward (to the right). Particular care should be taken that the forefinger is clear of the trigger or the cylinder will not revolve. Jerking the revolver forward while holding the thumb on the hammer will not be permitted.

141. Position and aiming drills, dismounted.--For this instruction the squad will be formed with an interval of 1 pace between files. Black pasters to simulate bull's-eyes will be pasted opposite each man on the barrack or other wall, from which the squad is 10 paces distant.

The squad being formed as described above, the instructor gives the command: 1. Raise, 2. Pistol (par. 156, Cavalry Drill Regulations), and cautions, "Position and aiming drill, dismounted." The men take the positions described in paragraph 136, except that the pistol is held at "Raise pistol."

The instructor cautions, "Trigger squeeze exercise." At the command READY, cock the weapon as described in paragraph 140. At the command, 1. Squad, 2. FIRE, slowly extend the arm till it is nearly horizontal, the pistol directed at a point about 6 inches below the bull's-eye. At the same time put the forefinger inside the trigger guard and gradually "feel" the trigger. Inhale enough air to comfortably fill the lungs and gradually raise the piece until the line of sight is directed at the point of aim, i. e., just below the bull's-eye at 6 o'clock. While the sights are directed upon the mark, gradually increase the pressure on the trigger until it reaches that point where the slightest additional pressure will release the sear. Then, when the aim is true, the additional pressure necessary to fire the piece is given so smoothly as not to derange the alignment of the sights. The weapon will be held on the mark for an instant after the hammer falls and the soldier will observe what effect, if any, the squeezing of the trigger has had on his aim.

It is impossible to hold the arm perfectly still, but each time the line of sight is directed on the point of aim a slight additional pressure is applied to the trigger until the piece is finally discharged at one of the moments when the sights are correctly aligned upon the mark.

When the soldier has become proficient in taking the proper position, the trigger squeeze should be executed at will. The instructor prefaces the preparatory command by "At will" and gives the command HALT at the conclusion of the exercise, when the soldier will return to the position of "Raise pistol."

At first this exercise should be executed with deliberation, but gradually the soldier will be taught to catch the aim quickly and to lose no time in beginning the trigger squeeze and bringing it to the point where the slightest additional pressure will release the sear.

REMARKS.--In service few opportunities will be offered for slow aimed fire with the pistol or revolver, although use will be made of the weapon under circumstances when accurate pointing and rapid manipulation are of vital importance.

In delivering a rapid fire, the soldier must keep his eyes fixed upon the mark and, after each shot, begin a steadily increasing pressure on the trigger, trying at the same time to get the sights as nearly on the mark as possible before the hammer again falls. The great difficulty in quick firing with the pistol lies in the fact that when the front sight is brought upon the mark, the rear sight is often found to be outside the line joining the eye with the mark. This tendency to hold the pistol obliquely can be overcome only by a uniform manner of holding and pointing. This uniformity is to be attained only by acquiring a grip which can be taken with certainty each time the weapon is fired. It is this circumstance which makes the position and aiming drills so important. The soldier should constantly practice pointing the pistol until he acquires the ability to direct it on the mark in the briefest interval of time and practically without the aid of sights.

The soldier then repeats the exercises with the pistol in the left hand, the left side being turned toward the target.

142. To draw and fire quickly--Snap shooting.--With the squad formed as described in paragraph 141 except that the pistol is in the holster and the flap, if any, buttoned, the instructor cautions "Quick-fire exercise." And gives the command, 1. SQUAD; 2. Fire. At this command each soldier, keeping his eye on the target, quickly draws his pistol, cocks it as in paragraph 140, thrusts it toward the target, squeezes the trigger, and at the instant the weapon is brought in line with the eye and the objective increases the pressure, releasing the sear. To enable the soldier to note errors in pointing, the weapon will be momentarily held in position after the fall of the hammer. Efforts at deliberate aiming in this exercise must be discouraged.

Remarks under paragraph 141 are specially applicable also to this type of fire. When the soldier has become proficient in the details of this exercise, it should be repeated at will; the instructor cautions, "At will; quick fire exercise." The exercise should be practiced until the mind, the eye, and trigger finger act in unison.

To simulate this type of fire mounted, the instructor places the squad so that the simulated bull's-eyes are in turn, to the RIGHT, to the LEFT, to the RIGHT FRONT, to the LEFT FRONT, to the RIGHT REAR. With the squad in one of these positions, the instructor cautions, "Position and aiming drill, mounted." At this caution the right foot is carried 20 inches to the right and the left hand to the position of the bridle hand (par. 246, Cavalry Drill Regulations). The exercise is carried out as described for the exercise dismounted, using the commands and means laid down in paragraphs 161 to 168, inclusive, Cavalry Drill Regulations, for firing in the several directions. The exercise is to be executed at will when the squad has been sufficiently well instructed in detail.

When firing to the left the pistol hand will be about opposite the left shoulder and the shoulders turned about 45° to the left; when firing to the right rear the shoulders are turned about 45° to the right.

When the soldier is proficient in these exercises with the pistol in the right hand, they are repeated with the pistol in the left hand.

Revolver or pistol range practice.--The courses in range practice are given in paragraphs 147 to 199, Small Arms Firing Manual, 1913.

nd every point that is 880 feet above sea level. Should the Missouri River rise in flood to 880 feet, the penitentiary would be on an island, the edge of which is marked by the 880 contour.

Contours show several things; among them the height of the ground they cross. Usually the contour has labeled on it in figures the height above some starting point, called the datum plane--generally sea level. If, with a surveying instrument, you put in on a piece of ground a lot of stakes, each one of which is exactly the same height above sea level--that is, run a line of levels--then make a map showing the locution of the stakes, a line drawn on the map through all the stake positions is a contour and shows the position of all points of that particular height.

On any given map all contours are equally spaced in a vertical direction, and the map shows the location of a great number of points at certain fixed levels. If you know the vertical interval between any two adjacent contours, you know the vertical interval for all the contours on that map, for these intervals on a given map are all the same.

With reference to a point through which no contour passes, we can only say that the point in question is not higher than the next contour up the hill, nor lower than the next one down the hill. For the purposes of any problem, it is usual to assume that the ground slopes evenly between the two adjacent contours and that the vertical height of the point above the lower contour is proportional to its horizontal distance from the contour, as compared to the whole distance between the two contours. For instance, on the map, find the height of point A. The horizontal measurements are as shown on the map. The vertical distance between the contours is 20 feet. A is about one-quarter of the distance between the 800 and the 820 contours, and we assume its height to be one-quarter of 20 feet (5 feet) higher than 800 feet. So the height of A is 805 feet.

The vertical interval is usually indicated in the corner of the map by the letters "V. I." For instance: V. I.=20 feet.

On maps of very small pieces of ground, the V. I. is usually small--perhaps as small as 1 foot; on maps of large areas on a small scale it may be very great--even 1,000 feet.

Contours also show slopes. It has already been explained that from any contour to the next one above it the ground rises a fixed number of feet, according to the vertical interval of that map. From the scale of distances on the map the horizontal distance between any two contours can be found. For example: On the map the horizontal distance between D and E is 90 yards, or 270 feet. The vertical distance is 20 feet the V. I. of the map. The slope then is 20/270 = 1/13.5 = 7-1/2% = 4-1/2°, in all of which different ways the slope can be expressed,

On a good many contoured maps a figure like this will be found in one of the corners:

On that particular map contours separated by the distance

on the vertical scale show a slope of 1°: if separated by the distance Fig. 26 they show a 2° slope. etc. A slope of 1° is a rise of 1 foot in 57. To use this scale of slopes copy it on the edge of a piece of paper just as you did the scale of distances and apply it directly to the map.

You will notice that where the contours lie closest the slope is steepest; where they are farthest apart the ground is most nearly flat,

It has already been set forth how contours show height and slope; in addition to this they show the shape of the ground, or GROUND FORMS. Each single contour shows the shape at its particular level of the hill or valley it outlines; for instance, the 880 contour about the penitentiary shows that the hill at that level has a shape somewhat like a horse's head. Similarly, every contour on the map gives us the form of the ground at its particular level, and knowing these ground forms for many levels we can form a fair conception of what the whole surface is like.

A round contour like the letter O outlines a round ground feature; a long narrow one indicates a long narrow ground feature.

Different hills and depressions have different shapes. A good many of them have one shape at one level and another shape at another level, all of which information will be given you by the contours on the map.

One of the ways to see how contours show the shape of the ground is to pour half a bucket of water into a small depression in the ground. The water's edge will be exactly level, and if the depression is approximately round the water's edge will also be approximately round. The outline will look something like figure 6.

Draw roughly on a piece of paper a figure of the same shape and you will have a contour showing the shape of the bit of ground where you poured your water.

Next, with your heel gouge out on one edge of your little pond a small round bay. The water will rush in and the water-mark on the soil will now be shaped something like figure 7.

Alter your drawing accordingly, and the new contour will show the new ground shape.

Again do violence to the face of nature by digging with a stick a narrow inlet opening out of your miniature ocean, and the watermark will now look something like figure 8.

Alter your drawing once more and your contour shows again the new ground form. Drop into your main pond a round clod and you will have a new watermark, like figure 9, to add to your drawing. This new contour, of the same level with the one showing the limit of the depression, shows on the drawing the round island.

Drop in a second clod, this time long and narrow, the watermark will be like figure 10, and the drawing of it, properly placed, will show another island of another shape. Your drawing now will look like figure 11.

It shows a depression approximately round, off which open a round bay and a long narrow bay. There is also a round elevation and a long, narrow one; a long, narrow ridge, jutting out between the two bays, and a short, broad one across the neck of the round bay.

Now flood your lake deeply enough to cover up the features you have introduced. The new water line, about as shown by the dotted line in figure 11, shows the oblong shape of the depression at a higher level; the solid lines show the shape farther down; the horizontal distance between the two contours at different points shows where the bank is steep and where the slope is gentler.

Put together the information that each of these contours gives you, and you will see how contours show the shape of the ground. On the little map you have drawn you have introduced all the varieties of ground forms there are; therefore all the contour forms.

The contours on an ordinary map seem much more complicated, but this is due only to the number of them, their length, and many turns before they finally close on themselves. Or they may close off the paper. But trace each one out, and it will resolve itself into one of the forms shown in figure 11.

Just as the high-tide line round the continents of North and South America runs a long and tortuous course, but finally closes back on itself, so will every contour do likewise. And just as truly as every bend in that high-tide mark turns out around a promontory, or in around a bay, so will every bend in a contour stand for a hill or a valley, pointing to the lowlands if it be a hill, and to the height if it mark a valley.

If the map embrace a whole continent or an island, all the contours will be of closed form, as in figure 11, but if it embrace only it part of the continent or island, some of the contours will be chopped off at the edge of the map, and we have the open form of contours, as we would have if figure 11 were cut into two parts.

The closed form may indicate a hill or a basin; the open form, a ridge or a valley; sometimes a casual glance does not indicate which.

Take up, first, the contour of the open type. If the map shows a stream running down the inside of the contour, there is no difficulty in saying at once that the ground feature is a valley; for instance, V, V, V, and the valley of Corral Creek on the map. But if there is no stream line, does the contour bend show a valley or a ridge?

First of all, there is a radical difference between the bend of a contour round the head of a valley and its bend round the nose of a ridge,

Compare on the map the valleys V and the ridges R. The bend of the contour round the head of the valley is much sharper than the bend of the contour round the nose of the ridge. This is a general truth, not only in regard to maps, but also in regard to ground forms. Study any piece of open ground and note how much wider are the ridges than the valleys. Where you find a "hog back" or "devil's backbone," you have an exception to the rule, but the exceptions are not frequent enough to worry over.

To tell whether a given point is on a ridge or in a valley, start from the nearest stream shown on the map and work across the map to the undetermined point, keeping in mind that in a real trip across the country you start from the stream, go up the hill to the top of a ridge, down the other side of the hill to a water-course, then up a hill to the top of a ridge, down again, up again, etc. That is all traveling is--valley, hill, valley, hill, valley, etc., though you wander till the crack o' doom. And so your map travels must go--valley, hill, valley, hill--till you run off the map or come back to the starting point.

On the map, follow the R-V line, V indicating valley and R ridge or hill. Note first the difference in sharpness in the contour bends; also how the valley contours point to the highland and the ridge contours to the lowland.

The contours go thus:

The streams flow down the valleys, and the sharp angle of the contour points always up stream. Note also how the junction of a stream and its tributary usually makes an angle that points down stream.

"Which way does this stream run?"

Water flows down hill. If you are in the bed of a stream, contours representing higher ground must be to your right and to your left. Get the elevations of these contours. Generally the nearest contour to the bank of the stream will cross the stream and there will be an angle or sharp turn in the contour at this crossing. If the point of the angle or sharp turn is toward you, you are going downstream; if away from you, you are going upstream.

If the contours are numbered, you have only to look at the numbers to say where the low and where the high places are; but to read a map with any speed one must be quite independent of these numbers. In ordinary map reading look, first of all, for the stream lines. The streams are the skeleton upon which the whole map is hung. Then pick out the hilltops and ridges and you have a body to clothe with ail the details that will be revealed by a close and careful study of what the map maker has recorded.

As to closed contours, they may outline a depression or a hill. On the map, "881" or "885" might be hills or ponds, as far as their shape is concerned. But, clearly, they are hills, for on either side are small streams running away from them. If they were ponds, the stream lines would run toward the closed contours. The rest of "hill, valley, hill," will always solve the problem when there are not enough stream lines shown to make evident at once whether a closed contour marks a pond or a hill. Look in the beginning for the stream lines and valleys, and, by contrast, if for no other reason, the hills and ridges at once loom up.

To illustrate the subject of contours to aid those who have difficulty in reading contoured maps the following is suggested:

1. Secure modeling clay and build a mound.

2. Use wire and slice this mound horizontally at equal vertical intervals into zones; then insert vertical dowels through the mound of clay.

3. Remove the top zone, place on paper, and draw outline of the bottom edge. Trim your paper roughly to the outline drawn. Indicate where the holes made by the dowels pierce the paper.

4. Do the above with each zone of your mound.

5. Place these papers in proper order on dowels similarly placed to ones in original mound at, say, 1 inch vertical interval apart. A skeleton mound results.

6. Replace the zones of the clay mound and form the original clay mound along the side of skeleton mound.

7. New force all the paper sheets down the dowels onto the bottom sheet, and we have a map of clay mound with contours.

NOTE.--One-inch or 2-inch planks can be made into any desired form by the use of dowels and similar procedure followed.

People frequently ask, "What should I see when I read a map?" and the answer is given, "The ground as it is." This is not true any more than it is true that the words, "The valley of the Meuse," bring to your mind vine-clad hills, a noble river, and green fields where cattle graze. Nor can any picture ever put into your thought what the Grand Canyon really is. What printed word or painted picture can not do, a map will not. A map says to you, "Here stands a hill," "Here is a valley," "This stream runs so," and gives you a good many facts in regard to them. But you do not have to "see" anything, any more than you have to visualize Liege in order to learn the facts of its geography. A map sets forth cold facts in an alphabet all its own, but an easy alphabet, and one that tells with a few curving lines more than many thousand words could tell.

Section 2. Sketching.

Noncommissioned officers and selected privates should be able to make simple route sketches. This is particularly useful in patrolling as thereby a patrol leader is able to give his commander a good idea of the country his patrol has traversed. Sketches should be made on a certain scale, which should be indicated on the sketch, such as 3 inches on the sketch equals 1 mile on the ground. The north should be indicated on the sketch by means of an arrow pointing in that direction. Any piece of paper may be used to make the sketch on. The back of the field-message blank is ruled and prepared for this purpose. The abbreviations and conventional signs shown on the following pages should be used in making such simple sketches.

Field Maps and Sketches.

The following abbreviations and signs are authorized for use on field maps and sketches. For more elaborate map work the authorized conventional signs as given in the manual of "Conventional Signs, United States Army Maps," are used.

Abbreviations other than those given should not be used.

ABBREVIATIONS.

A.	Arroyo.	G. S	GeneralStore.	Pt.	Point.
abut.	Abutment.	gir.	Girder.	q.p.	Queen-post
Ar.	Arch.	G. M.	Gristmill.	R.	River.
b.	Brick.	I.	Iron.	R. H.	Roundhouse.
B.S.	BlacksmithShop.	I.	Island.	R.R.	Railroad.
bot.	Bottom.	Jc.	Junction.	S.	South.
Br.	Branch.	k.p.	King-post.	s.	Steel.
br.	Bridge.	L.	Lake.	S.H.	Schoolhouse.
C.	Cape.	Lat.	Latitude.	S.M.	Sawmill.
cem.	Cemetery.	Ldg.	Landing.	Sta.	Station.
con.	Concrete.	L.S.S.	Life-SavingStation.	st.	Stone.
cov.	Covered.	L.H.	Lighthouse	str.	Stream.
Cr.	Creek.	Long.	Longitude.	T.G.	Tollgate.
d.	Deep.	Mt.	Mountain.	Tres.	Trestle.
cul.	Culvert.	Mts.	Mountains.	tr.	Truss.
D.S.	DrugStore.	N.	North.	W.T.	WaterTank.
E.	East.	n.f.	Notfordable.	W.W.	WaterWorks.
Est.	Estuary.	P.	Pier.	W.	West.
f.	Fordable.	pk.	Plank.	w.	Wood.
Ft.	Fort.	P.O.	PostOffice	wd.	Wide.

SIGNS--FIELD MAPS AND SKETCHES.