If the cellar is properly constructed it will need little if any care during the time that the bees are inside. It is only the poor bee cellar which requires constant attention to prevent changes in temperature.

TEMPERATURE OF THE CELLAR.

There has been much discussion as to the best temperature of the cellar during the winter. Commonly it is stated that a temperature of 40° to 45° F. is best, but this is colder than usually is best for the finest results. A temperature below 40° F. is invariably bad for the bees, and a cellar in which the temperature goes as low as freezing is not a fit place for bees.

It has been found by the authors that bees do the least amount of work when the temperature of the air immediately surrounding them (inside the hive) stands at 57° F. This is, therefore, the temperature which the beekeeper should bear in mind, rather than to lay too much stress on the temperature of the cellar itself. The place for a thermometer in the bee cellar is inside the entrance of a good colony where it may be read easily by simply pulling it out. A chemical thermometer is best for this purpose, and it should register 52° F. or more inside the hive entrance. In order to have the right temperature within the hive it usually will be best to have the temperature of the cellar at about 50° F. or slightly higher. As will be shown later, however, it is quite possible to have the right temperature within the hive when the temperature of the cellar is a few degrees lower than that stated.

If the beekeeper will pay attention to the temperature of the interior of the hive he will find that in colder cellars it is desirable to give the hives some insulation to conserve the heat generated by the bees in much the same way that this heat is conserved when bees are packed outdoors, although the amount of protection will be much less. In a cellar where the temperature falls to 45° F. it will be found best to have the covers of the hives sealed on tightly and the entrances reduced to ? inch by 2 inches. In a cellar with a temperature of 50° F. or more the entrances may be left open the full width of the hive. If there is a tendency for the temperature to fall to 45° F. or less, the tops of the hives may be protected by cushions of chaff or other materials placed at least on the top of the uppermost hives, for each of the lower three hives is protected somewhat by the one above it.

It will be impossible to maintain the temperatures recommended unless the cellar is built in the way described, or in some other way by which the cellar is equally well insulated. It is impossible to maintain an equable and high temperature in a cellar the walls and ceiling of which are exposed to the outside air.

VENTILATION OF THE CELLAR.

If the proper temperature is maintained in the cellar there will be little need of ventilation, for in almost all cases there will be sufficient interchange of air to keep the bees in good condition. If the temperature is as low as 45° F., a little ventilation will be needed, although most of the bee cellars that have been built have had too much ventilation, and as a result it has been impossible to maintain a correct temperature within them. In cold weather the tendency toward an interchange of air is greatest, and at such times the ventilators may be entirely closed. In mild weather it makes no difference if large ventilators are open, unless this results in too great a rise in temperature.

In a well-insulated cellar it should not be necessary to ventilate at night at the approach of spring to cool the air inside, for the bees will not get so warm from their own activity as will bees in a cellar that is or has been too cold. The greatest problem in most cellars is to maintain the right temperature during the spring just before the bees are to be removed. The trouble is that in most cellars—those which are too cold in winter—the bees generate heat constantly during the winter and as a result have an accumulation of feces in the intestines, resulting in a condition known as dysentery. For this reason they become excited easily, and beekeepers have thought it necessary to ventilate the cellar at night freely in order to remedy this trouble. The proper method, of course, is to prevent it by keeping the temperature higher during the winter, but if the temperature has fallen too low during the winter ventilation at night seems to help somewhat. It is safe, however, to say that a cellar in which this happens is not satisfactory as a place to keep bees during the winter, and steps should be taken to insulate it more completely before bees are put into it again. If the bees are wintering on stores that are not of the best quality the tendency to accumulate feces will be far greater, even with the right temperatures inside the hives, and if there is dysentery it may be relieved somewhat by ventilation, although this is simply reducing a symptom and is not removing the cause of the trouble.

VENTILATION OF THE HIVE.

Since bees in a good cellar require little ventilation, practically no attention need be paid to this subject if the cellar has been built in the way advised. If the temperature of the cellar tends to fall too low, it is advisable to reduce the entrances of the hives, for with a greater difference between the temperatures within and outside the hive the tendency for interchange of air will be correspondingly greater. In any cellar fit for the wintering of bees it will be neither necessary nor desirable to ventilate the hives at the top, as sometimes has been recommended.

The ventilation of the hive within the cellar is not so much for the elimination of foul air as for the escape of moisture, and therefore the amount of ventilation needed for the hive depends upon the humidity of the air within the cellar. If the temperature of the cellar is kept high enough there will be no condensation of moisture within the hive, and if water is ever observed on the covers of the hives it is conclusive proof that the cellar is too cold for the bees. In a cellar so cold that condensed moisture shows on the bottoms of the hives stops should be taken at once to raise the temperature.

Various attempts have been made in the past to provide for the cellar fresh air which has been warmed somewhat before entry. The most common method is to have the air pass through tiles under ground for perhaps 100 feet before it enters the cellar. In general, it may be said that none of these devices has been worth the trouble and expense involved and none of them has served the purpose for which it was intended. It has been proposed also to ventilate the bee cellar by wind pressure. The devices which have been made for such ventilation will function only when there is considerable wind and then only when the wind is in the right quarter; therefore they are not at all to be recommended. By far the best plan is simply to build the bee cellar correctly, for, then little ventilation will be needed.

CLEANING THE CELLAR.

In even the best of cellars there will be some dead bees on the floor, and those may be cleaned up once or twice during the winter. In a cellar with proper temperature there will be few dead bees until after the middle of the winter, but the death rate increases toward the close of the winter. If the cellar is cleaned, it should be done with as little disturbance as possible. No bright light should be admitted at this time, although a moderate amount seems to do little harm until after the bees have an accumulation of feces in the intestines.

REMOVING THE BEES FOR FLIGHT DURING THE WINTER.

Some beekeepers have advocated removing the colonies toward the end of the winter for a flight on some warm day and then replacing them, on the supposition that the flight would enable the bees to stand a longer period of confinement. It is found, however, that if bees are disturbed, as by carrying them out, they begin brood-rearing almost invariably, and this does more harm than the flight does good.

DISTURBANCE DURING THE WINTER.

Work in or about the bee cellar while the bees are confined should be done with the least possible disturbance of the bees, for often a little handling or jarring of the hive causes sufficient excitement to increase the temperature of the cluster to the point where brood-rearing begins. This is true especially in late winter. It is by far the wisest plan, therefore, to stay out of the cellar during the winter, except on the few occasions when a little work, such as cleaning out, makes a visit seem needed. Care should be taken not to jar the hives or to allow light to strike the entrance. Of course, if bees are being wintered in a cellar which has the right temperature, a little disturbance does little or no harm, but there is no reason why bees should be disturbed in winter and the beekeeper should not run any risk of starting brood-rearing.