| CHAPTER I. |
| HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. |
| PAGE |
| Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of the Orient | 17 |
| Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times | 18 |
| Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by Herodotus | 19 |
| Pliny's account of olibanum | 20 |
| Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of the sweet-scented ointment "myron" | 21 |
| Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments; Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome | 22 |
| Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments; Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides | 23 |
| Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers | 24 |
| Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by the Romans | 25 |
| Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages; Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, and of Guy de Chanlios | 26 |
| Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici and Margaret of Valois | 27 |
| Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century | 28 |
| Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats of the French perfumery industry | 29 |
| Privileges of the parfumeurs-gantiers in France; Use of perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling him into matrimony | 30 |
| CHAPTER II. |
| THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. |
| Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants | 31 |
| Families of plants richest in oil; Central Europe the actual flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the cultivation of plants | 32 |
| Volatile oils and their properties | 33 |
| Principal divisions of volatile oils | 34 |
| Constitution of terpenes; Concentrated volatile oils | 35 |
| Modes of gaining volatile oils; Expression | 36 |
| Clarification of the oil | 37 |
| Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described | 38 |
| Distillation | 39 |
| Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described | 40 |
| Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated and described | 41 |
| Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air; Separation of the oil and water; Florentine flasks, illustrated and described | 46 |
| Separator-funnel, illustrated and described | 47 |
| Extraction | 48 |
| Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described | 49 |
| Heyl's distilling apparatus | 57 |
| Maceration or infusion; Pomades; Purification of the fats used in the maceration process | Characteristics of Tonkin musk | 180 |
| Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine musk | 181 |
| Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer; Artificial musk | 182 |
| Adulterations of musk and their detection | 183 |
| Civet | 184 |
| Castor and its varieties | 185 |
| Adulterations of castor; Ambergris | 186 |
| Constituents of ambergris | 187 |
| Adulterations of ambergris | 188 |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. |
| Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouchardat |
| and Lafont | 189 |
| Cumarin, its occurrence and properties | 190 |
| Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce | 191 |
| Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans; Artificial preparation of cumarin from salicylic acid | 192 |
| Synthetical preparation of cumarin; Heliotropin or piperonal and its characteristics | 193 |
| Preparation of heliotropin | 194 |
| Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla | 195 |
| Artificial preparation of vanillin | 196 |
| Characteristics of vanillin | 197 |
| Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection; Nitrobenzol | 198 |
| Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane; adulteration of nitrobenzol and its detection | 199 |
| Fruit ethers and their characteristics | 200 |
| Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use; Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation | 201 |
| Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation | 204 |
| Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate; Preparation of butyric acid | 205 |
| Preparation of butyric ether | 207 |
| St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of butyric ether | 209 |
| Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation | 210 |
| Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according to Kopp's method | 211 |
| Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America | 212 |
| Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation | 214 |
| Valerianic ethyl ether; Apple ether; Apricot ether; Cherry ether; Pear ether; Pineapple ether; Strawberry ether; Preparation of fruit essences; Apple essence; Apricot essence | 216 |
| Cherry essence; Currant essence; Grape essence; Lemon essence; Melon essence; Orange essence; Peach essence; Pear essence; Pineapple essence; Plum essence | 217 |
| Raspberry essence; Strawberry essence | 218 |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. |
| Division of alcoholic perfumes; What constitutes the art of the perfumer; Qualities of flower-pomades and their designation | 219 |
| Storage of flower-pomades; Extraction of flower-pomades | 220 |
| Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades, illustrated and described | 309 |
| Eau de quinine (imitation); Honey water; Glycerin hair tonic; Eau lustral (hair restorative); Tea hair tonic | 310 |
| Locock's lotion for the hair; Shampoo lotion; Shampoo liquid | 311 |
| Dandruff cures; Dandruff lotion; Bay rum | 312 |
| Directions for preparing bay rum | 313 |
| Hair dyes; Requirements of a good hair dye; Gradual darkening of the hair; Use of dilute acids for making the hair lighter | 314 |
| Use of lead salts, nitrate of silver, and copper salts for dyeing the hair | 315 |
| Iron salts for dying the hair; Rastikopetra, a Turkish hair dye; Use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair | 316 |
| Kohol, an Egyptian hair dye; The use of henna as a hair dye; Process of coloring hair, dyed red with henna, black | 317 |
| Use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair; Bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen; FormulÆ for hair dyes | 318 |
| Single hair dyes; Teinture Orientale (Karsi); Teinture Chinoise (Kohol) | 319 |
| Potassium permanganate hair dye; Bismuth hair dye; Walnut hair dye; Pyrogallic hair stain | 320 |
| Double hair dyes; For dyeing brown; For dyeing black; Tannin hair dye | 321 |
| MelanogÈne; Eau d'Afrique; Krinochrom; Copper hair dye; Depilatories; Rhusma | 322 |
| Boettger's depilatory; Bartholow's depilatory | 323 |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| COSMETICS. |
| Skin cosmetics; Toilet vinegars; Vinaigre de Bully; Vinaigre de toilette À la rose; Vinaigre de toilette À la violette | 324 |
| Vinaigre de toilette hÉliotrope; Vinaigre de toilette orange; Vinaigre de toilette; Aromatic vinegar; English aromatic vinegar | 325 |
| Toilet vinegar; Washes; Virginal milk (Lait virginal); Rose milk (Lait de rose) | 326 |
| Almond milk (Lait d'amandes amÈres) | 327 |
| Lily milk (Lait de lys); Perfumed glycerin with rose odor; Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor; Perfumed meals and pastes; Farin de noisette (nut meal) | 328 |
| Farin d'amandes amÈres (almond meal); Pate d'amandes au miel (honey almond paste); Poudre de riz À la rose | 329 |
| Poudre de riz hÉliotrope; Poudre de riz orange; Poudre de riz muguet | 330 |
| Poudre de riz ixora; Poudre de riz bouquet; Cold creams and lip salves; Cold cream; Vaseline cold cream | 331 |
| Glycerin cream; CrÊme de concombre; Glycerin gelÉe; Glycerin jelly | 332 |
| Cream of roses; Boroglycerin cream; RÉcamier cream; Preparations for chapped hands | 333 |
| Wash for the hands; Nail powder; Lip-salves | 334 |
| Paints; Pulverulent paints (powders); "Blanc fard" or "Blanc franÇais" | 335 |
| Mixtures for powders; Coloring substances for powders; Powder for coloring intensely red; Solid paints; Ordinary red paint (rouge) | 336 |
| Fine red paint (rouge); White paint; Preparation of paints | 337 |
| Red stick-paint (stick rouge); Moulding the rouge into sticks | 339 |
| White stick-paint; Rouge en feuilles; Liquid paints; Liquid rouge | 340 |
| White liquid paint; Fat paints | 341 |
| CrÊme de Lys; CrÊme de rose | 342 |
| Index | 343 |
