What should mainly commend itself to our attention at the tea-table, is the quality of the infusion. This is the crucial test. If the leaf be genuine, the proof is ready at hand. If otherwise, the proof is equally apparent, no matter how skilfully the leaf may be prepared to deceive the eye. The pleasure of our morning and evening meal is much enhanced when the infusion is fragrant, lustrous, pleasant to the palate, and soothing to the nerves. Such covetable results, however, cannot be realised by those who, influenced by a false and flagrant economy, are led to purchase so-called “cheap Teas,”—noxious mixtures that in all probability have already done duty in Chinese tea-pots. A lady of our acquaintance, while in the act of pouring out the grateful beverage, recently remarked, half-apologetically: “What a very poor colour this Tea has! Either it must be uncoloured, or else the Chinese have not put sufficient colouring matter on the leaf!” To the inexperienced this remark naturally suggests the observation—“Do the Chinese really add ‘colouring’ for the purpose of giving a deep colour to the Tea in the cup?” Be reassured then, gentle reader, and understand that the terms “coloured” and “uncoloured” are used to distinguish betwixt that Tea which is painted or faced with mineral powder, principally Prussian blue and plumbago, and that which is pure, and free from any such prejudicial embellishments. A deep rich semi-transparent infusion is always obtained from good and pure Tea.

But for this popular error respecting the colour of Tea, I should scarcely have trenched on the precincts of the Tea-table—that forbidden ground, where the housewife is universally regarded as the very model of perfection, and where her power, for the time being, is admittedly supreme.

The Chinese, whatever may be the character of the nefarious arts to which they resort to make the best of a bad commodity, can and do send us supplies of good Tea. But then a fair price must needs be paid for it. Such consumers of the beverage as are willing to procure genuine Tea, and not lay out their money upon redried, rerolled, and “doctored” Tea-leaves, would do well to exercise judgment by selecting only those descriptions of Tea that have been carefully plucked in the early spring, when the leaf is small and imbued with the richness of the shrub-juices. Let but such a commodity be supplied perfectly uncoloured, and the perfection of human art is attained. When the foolish fashion of the age required Tea pretty to look at, then the Chinese, in deference to the public desire, and for the increased profits of those concerned, coloured or “faced” the leaf.

In conclusion, I may honestly aver that it is owing to the efforts of Messrs. Horniman that this reprehensible practice is fast falling into disfavour with the public. The enormous sale of the Firm’s pure Tea by some 4,000 Chemists, at once testifies to the high approval it has realised for its combinedly strong, delicious, and invigorating qualities.