Though local descriptions and circumstances are seldom productive of any high degree of interest, yet when they become connected with the adventurous, active, and surprising career of any remarkable individual, even the most trivial assumes a degree of importance, excites a lively curiosity, and seldom tails to gratify the expectation it has awakened. As the ruins of the castle at this place are in an eminent degree picturesque and beautiful, and its being the birthplace and residence of one of the Barons to whom we owe the blessing of the Magna Charta, as well as the scene of many of his surprising adventures; even the short account I propose to offer, cannot be wholly devoid of entertainment and instruction.
A.D. 843.In the time of Roderick the Great, king of all Wales, Ynyr ap Cadfarch, a British nobleman, built the Castle of Whittington; to which he was succeeded by his son Tudor Trevor, who altho’ possessed of many palaces, with rich and extensive The descendants of Tudor continued possessed of the Castle for several generations; and many families both in this neighbourhood and North Wales, boast their origin from him. A.D. 1060.At the Conquest, Whittington became the property of Pain Peverel, who having no issue, on his decease it was seized by Roger earl of Shrewsbury. This place was called in Doomsday Book, Wititone; and consisted at that time of eight corn farms, twelve ox-stalls, and a very extensive wood; the cows yielded five shillings per annum, and all Welsh residents were obliged to pay twenty shillings rent among them. A.D. 1083.He had two daughters, the youngest of which was named Mellet: she with the spirit of an Amazon, resolved to wed no one but the knight of most consummate valour. Her father published this declaration, and promised the Castle of Whittington as her dower. Several distinguished combatants assembled at Peverel’s place in the Peak, Derbyshire, to contend for the fair prize; and among whom were, a son of the king of Scotland, Baron Burgoyne, and a noble Lorrainer, Guarine De Metz, (sheriff of Shropshire, and chief counsellor to the earl of Shrewsbury;) the latter of whom came with a shield of silver, and As chivalry was the greatest accomplishment in these times, the progeny of this famed couple could hardly avoid being eminently distinguished by feats of arms, and the consequence was, that their names occupied very great portions in romances both at home and abroad. I must not forget to state, that Guarine De Metz was a great benefactor to the Monks: one remarkable instance of which is this; after a conflict he had with the Welsh, led by their prince Jorwerth, (in which action the latter was discomfited with all his host) our hero founded the New Abbey, better known by the name of Alberbury. The posterity of this great man for nine generations assumed the Christian name of Fulk; they continued possessed of the castle from the end of the reign of Henry I. till the time of Henry VIII. a period of near four hundred years. Their common name was Fitz-Gwarine. Mr. Dovaston in his poem, thus expresses himself on this subject:
Guarine De Metz died in the reign of Henry I. at Alberbury, where he was interred; his wife and his son Fulk Fitz-Gwarine being present on the occasion. We have mentioned that Guarine De Metz first exerted his valour in the cause of love, and that great commendation was bestowed on him in consequence; this was exactly the case with his son; he became desperately enamoured with Hawys, daughter of Sir Joos, of Normandy, who had been appointed guardian of the hero in question. Fitz-Gwarine observing Hawys to be frequently in great sorrow, desired to know the cause of it, and was informed that it proceeded from the dangerous situation of her father, being at that time in the hands of Walter Lacy and Sir Arnold de Lis, two of his inveterate enemies. Upon hearing this, Fulk resolved to rescue him, and being supplicated by her whom he adored, he set off immediately and arrived in time just to A.D. 1122.Fulk Fitz-Gwarine acted the hero in all his enterprizes with such vigour, capacity, and celerity, that Henry I. knighted him, made him steward of his house, and conferred on him the arduous office of Lieutenant of the Marches; it was this that gave him the name of Fulco or Fulk, signifying Lieutenant. In this department his sword did not long remain undrawn; the Cambrian Prince, Gryffydd ap Cynan, according to the general practice of his countrymen, made a descent upon the lordship of Whittington, and the surrounding country. These incursions were made so frequently, and attended with such pernicious effects, that the power of the Lords’ Marchers was often necessary to repel their progress: indeed this was their sole office, and a very useful one it was. In the present case, Fitz-Gwarine nobly conducted It is recorded that Fulk Fitz-Gwarine, and John son to Henry II. afterwards King John, were playing at chess together, when it happened that they disagreed, and the prince gave Fulk a severe blow upon the head with the board, which the latter returned in such a violent manner, as almost to kill the young prince; a circumstance, had it happened, not much to be regretted, were it not in consideration of the glorious Magna Charta afterwards obtained from him. Mr. Dovaston in speaking of the noble actions of Fitz-Gwarine, mentions Fulk and John’s quarrel in the following manner:
Fulk Fitz-Gwarine was succeeded by his eldest son, who bore the same name. He raised the glory and dignity of his family beyond any thing it had yet attained to, by numerous and valourous actions, hereafter respectively to be recorded. At the time, his father died, he was actively engaged in Lombardy, where he conducted himself with such ability and vigour, that king A.D. 1189.Richard I. just before he went on the Crusades, made him Lord Marcher of Wales, an office that required all the exertion and capacity that could possibly exist in one man. In the beginning of king John’s reign, Whittington was in the hands of Maurice, brother to the person to whom Owen Gwynedd presented it. Fulk Fitz-Gwarine made application to John for this place, the ancient property and residence of his Fitz-Gwarine formed a resolution of leaving France, and returning to his own country: he accordingly embarked, and landed at Dover, with a full determination to see king John. For fear of discovery, Fulk exchanged clothes with a peasant: The poem of Fitz-Gwarine, thus describes the subject last treated of.
The stay of Fitz-Gwarine at Orkney was short, for we soon after find him driven by tempests to the coast of Barbary. In contemplation upon this dreary part of the globe, he formed a resolution of seeing Carthage, the city that produced such invincible heroes, whose courage defended
A.D. 1207.The next laudable action of Fitz-Gwarine, of which we have any authentic account is, his going on an expedition into Ireland, in the service of the English king. He behaved with such intrepidity and loyalty, that after his return to England, he received the title of The Great: an appellation more frequently conferred on the destroyers of the human race, than on those who contribute to the A.D. 1215.Upon the dissatisfaction and rebellion of the Barons against king John, Fulk joined with them; for we find his name among the number that were excommunicated by the Pope, for extorting from John that firm basis of English liberty, called Magna Charta. A.D. 1219.In the succeeding reign, viz. that of Henry III., Fitz-Gwarine procured a grant of his estates, to him and his heirs for ever; for which he gave the king two coursers, and two hundred and sixty-two pounds, an enormous sum in that age, and which gives us an idea of the wealth of Fitz-Gwarine. The same monarch also granted him the liberty of a fair on St. Luke’s day, and a market on Wednesday, at Whittington; but on account of its proximity to Oswestry and Ellesmere, both market and fair are now quite lost. There were, however, fairs on the last Thursdays in April, July, and Strange, lord of Knockin, and possessor of the castle there, had several conflicts or wars with Fitz-Gwarine, during the agitated reign of John. In some of these skirmishes they threw down, or considerably damaged each others castle; for we find grants given by Henry III. to each of these Barons to repair and fortify them. Whittington castle was so completely fortified by Fitz-Gwarine, that we never after hear of its being taken from its possessors. Out of the refuse materials Fitz-Gwarine built a chapel that soon became the parish church, and of which, I shall say more hereafter. In a tower in the gateway was till very
Fulk Fitz-Gwarine had the misfortune to be stricken with blindness in his old age. Upon his death, he was buried in the porch of Whittington church; and his remains were found there in an oak coffin three inches thick, by digging a grave in the year, 1796. He had a daughter named Eva, who was second wife to Llewelyn, king of Wales; and it was through her that Fitz-Gwarine came to know of John’s private message to I state from very good authority, that this Fulk, or to avoid confusion Fulk the second, was married to Clarice of Abbourville, but of what family she was, or when they were married, I have not been able to discover. Fitz-Gwarine, it is stated, went generally by the appellation of Proudhome, as a mark of respect to his nobility. He left behind him a son, who enjoyed his father’s estates and titles, but for no considerable time. He followed king Henry III. through all that prince’s adverse fortune, and righting in his behalf at the battle of Lewes, had the irreparable misfortune of being drowned in the act of crossing a river; leaving behind him a young son, the fourth Fitz-Gwarine. Dugdale states, that it was Fitz-Gwarine the second who was drowned at Lewes; but though, a most excellent historian, he is certainly wrong in this particular, for the following reasons: When Fitz-Gwarine the second was appointed Lieutenant of the Marches in the first year of Richard I. he at least must have been of age; and from Immediately after the battle, (the events of which must be known to every person who has read the English history) the earl of Leicester created Peter de Montford, one of his chief accomplices, governor of Whittington castle. Leicester also obliged the captive king to deliver Whittington with several other bordering castles, into the hands of Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, king of Wales, by a writ dated from Hereford, June 22, 1265. That cruel earl likewise, in Henry’s name, A.D. 1281.Fulk the fourth having arrived at years of maturity, made proof of his age to Edward I. who invested him with all his patrimonial estates except Whittington, which he also obtained upon his accompanying the English monarch on his expedition against the Welsh. He behaved with such intrepid bravery, that Edward, in reward for his meritorious conduct, allowed him the liberty of a Free Warren on his lands in this manor, and likewise forgave him two hundred pounds that Fulk owed to the exchequer. A.D. 1300.This year the king used his influence in reconciling Fitz-Gwarine and Richard, earl of Arundel, in consequence of a quarrel prevailing at that time between these two powerful and predominant barons; but the breach was amicably adjusted by the interposition of Edward’s good offices. A.D. 1329.Edmund earl of Kent, uncle to the king, being suspected of circulating reports, that Edward II. was then alive, he accused Fitz-Gwarine of promising him aid, in case Kent could bring about a rebellion, for which our hero was deprived of the castle of Whittington; but some of his friends, who had influence with Edward obtained it back for him in the following year, the king being perfectly convinced of his loyalty. A.D. 1350.In this year, or the twenty-third of Edward III., Fitz-Gwarine the fifth departed this life; and was succeeded by his son, Fulk the sixth; who, four years before had the honour of signalizing himself at the memorable battle of Cressy, the first A.D. 1356.and was at the illustrious battle of Poictiers, where the whole army gained universal applause:—headed by a general, whose noble and generous conduct shone with meridian splendour, not only in this, but in every other campaign he was engaged in; and whose whole life was one continued scene of invincible courage, adorned with all that clemency and nobleness of soul, so much to be admired in a prince. A.D. 1374.Fitz-Gwarine, for the important services he rendered to his country, was, upon his return there, created Baron Marcher of Wales; this is the last well-grounded anecdote that we have of him, except the date of his death, which took place in the forty-seventh of Edward III. The next Fulk was only seven years old at the death of his father. He became possessed of a greater extent of property than The only account we have of this Fulk, is the following humane action: when Owen Glyndwr carried his arms into these borders, on purpose to meet Percy, earl of Northumberland at Shrewsbury, several in this manor joined with that potent rebel; but Fitz-Gwarine, by solicitations to Henry IV. procured for them a general pardon. His son and successor was the ninth and last Fulk Fitz-Gwarine: he died in his minority, and the male line of this noble and distinguished race, closes; though the title of Fitz-Gwarine, or Fitz-Warine was assumed for a few generations afterwards. Elizabeth, only sister and heiress to Fulk And here it may not be improper to take a general view of this illustrious and warlike race, that flourished through such a number of reigns, and retained their estates, titles, honours, acquisitions, and privileges, until nearly their final termination of the race.—In whatever light war is considered in the present day, no period of history ever discountenanced it; to be skilled in arms has been always considered the highest and most honourable acquisition, that an individual could attain to, in all ages and amongst all nations, though it must be confessed this is chiefly to be accounted for from the slow But though war has been the prevailing accomplishment throughout sacred and prophane history, yet with what ecstasy do we contemplate that portion of time which providence has allotted us: free from the intolerable recounters produced by the broils and dissentions of those turbulent, inflexible, and ambitious barons, who so disturbed England during the reigns of the Normans and Plantagenets; and likewise delivered from the well known calamities of intestine commotions, so productive of civil wars; the evils of which can be better conceived than described. On the subject of war I have said more than my limits will allow to say of any thing else concerning this family; That religion was held in great veneration by this race, is very conspicuous from the number of public and private edifices built by them, and devoted to pious uses: almost all the churches and abbies in this neighbourhood were founded by some of the family, and though the latter are not now in existence, yet the churches will preserve the memory of their establishers till time shall be no more. I have stated that this castle passed into the hands of Henry VIII.; we hear nothing further concerning it till the following reign, when the king presented the place in question to Henry Grey, duke of Suffolk, who forfeited it in consequence of the conviction of several crimes imputed to him. This took Having given some account of the possessors of Whittington castle, I think it my duty to attempt laying before the reader, a short account of this structure, and proceed to shew, that it must have underwent fortification soon after its original establishment: placed on the border of Wales, it must have been alternately in the hands of the Welsh and Saxons; for the latter of whom it formed a key of great utility in their attacks open the former, and consequently so useful an inlet, must have been strongly defended. Indeed its founder could not have chosen a place in which nature contributed more to its security; finding the innumerable springs of water so advantageously situated for his The keep was the place of last resort in times of great danger, and was in consequence defended with the utmost precaution. In the present case, it was fortified with five round towers, each forty feet in diameter, an hundred in height, and the walls twelve in thickness. I have not been able to discover what time the keep fell into a state of delapidation, but undoubtedly for a great number of years, as an aged mulbery is growing in it. About the year 1760, the eastern tower fell into the moat after a severe frost, and some years afterwards, one of the northern towers and the western wall were taken down to repair the roads leading from Whittington to Halston bridge. The northern tower that now remains was undermined for the same purpose. In 1809, a smaller tower, used many years as a pidgeon house, was taken The keep is now used as a garden, at an even depth under which is a pavement of free-stone; at the north corner is a well, which was discovered and opened in 1809, when there was found the handle of the bucket, a pair of large iron fetters for the legs, a large jug, the remains of stags’ heads and swords; and upon removing some rubbish about the same time, there appeared a curious carved stone head, and likewise some highly gilt glass bottles. Within the trenches are some very fine tall wych elm and ash trees, that add greatly to the beauty of the ruins. The ancient and present state of the castle, is beautifully contrasted by Mr. Dovaston, in the following manner:
It is situated amid fine and fertile meadows, through which a rapid stream having commenced a subterraneous course about a mile above, here emerging, playfully undulates, having its border shaded with poplars, till it enters the castle moat, where encompassing the walls, whose ruins are richly fringed with ivy, and hung with elegant traces of wild flowers and woodbine, it enters the Perry amid the meadows below, formerly the site of an extensive lake. The ancient fosses and intrenchments may yet very visibly be traced to a surprising distance beyond the castle, westward, from where the lake terminated, in some fields still called “The Runtings.” The internal scenery, where the aged elms expand their immense arms among the now gloomy ruins, formerly the place of hilarity and carousing, is, perhaps, not surpassed by any on the border. In the township of Daywell in the parish of Whittington, Watt’s Dyke makes its appearance, extending from a place called Gobowen, adjoining the parish of Selattyn, into that of St. Martins. The extent between this Dyke and Offa’s (which crosses the hills above Selattyn) is about four miles. These Dykes point north and south, and the intervening space is said to have been a common mart, where the English and Welsh met to carry on a commercial intercourse, with each other; but, if either party transgressed these bounds, they were exposed to the severities of war. Upon Watt’s Dyke, at a place called Brynycastle, near to Gobowen, is the site of an old Watch-fort, and another a little further on towards St. Martins. |