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LETTER I.
MANILA |
| Journey from Hong Kong. First sight of the Philippine coast. Manila Bay. The Pasig River. A drive through the streets. Old Manila. Spanish influences. Manila hotels. The Virgin of Antipolo. Inter-island steamers. | 1 |
LETTER II.
FROM MANILA TO ILOILO |
| Beautiful islands. Coin divers. A glimpse of CebÚ. The hemp industry. The Island of Mactan. Magellan. A curious record in orthography. Fellow-passengers. Soldiers and school-teachers. American theories. Social and racial equality. The Filipino race. | 8 |
LETTER III.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ILOILO |
| Arrival at Iloilo. Situation of Guimaras and Negros. The Island of Panay. Climate. House-hunting. Native methods. Conant coinage. Philippine houses. | 15 |
LETTER IV.
A PHILIPPINE HOUSE—AMERICAN PRICES—NATIVE SERVANTS—FURNITURE |
| We find a house. Domestic architecture. The Azotea. Results of American extravagance. Iloilo shops. Filipino servants. Settling down. Chinese shops. Furniture. “Philippines for the Filipinos.” Rumours of the Custom House. | 22 |
LETTER V.
HOUSEKEEPING IN ILOILO |
| Housekeeping. Strange insects. Chinese bread. The washerwoman. Domestic etiquette. A hawker of orchids. | 33 |
LETTER VI.
A WASTED LAND |
| The road to Molo. Picturesque scenes. Custom House methods. An unpleasant surprise. Philippine trading firms. An over-zealous law. The Philippine bed. Christmas Eve. The tropic dawn. Christmas Day. The water-supply. Food and drink. Scarcity and high prices. Book-learning versus agriculture. | 42 |
LETTER VII.
CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NATIVES |
| A Filipino Fiesta. The national hero. Doctor Rizal and his work. A languid festival. A musical people. Dress of the native women. PiÑa muslin. Dress of native men. Scrupulous cleanliness. A walk on the beach. Gorgeous colouring. | 50 |
LETTER VIII.
SOCIAL AMUSEMENTS |
| A ball at the Spanish Club. The Rigodon. Curious costumes. Bringing in the New Year. A painful interlude. Position of Eurasians. New Year’s Day. The suburbs of Iloilo. Filipino children. | 57 |
LETTER IX.
TARIFFS—INSECTS |
| More Custom House surprises. Official blunders. House-lizards. Roof-menageries. Anting-anting. Snakes. Cicadas. Ants. Cockroaches. Mosquitoes. | 66 |
LETTER X.
A FILIPINO THEATRE—CARABAOS |
| Dramatic clubs. The Iloilo theatre. An amusing experience. An operetta. The Jaro road. Carabaos. An evening scene by the river. The fashionable paseo. | 74 |
LETTER XI.
SOME RESULTS OF THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION |
| Heat and drought. Bathrooms. A handsome cow-boy. Cost of living. Military manners. Camp Josman. The Government of the Philippines. A “pull.” An arbitrary tax. The Plaza Libertad. Effects of fire and bombardment. Story of the American occupation. Unwelcome saviours. A pretty garden. The “unemployed.” Scale of wages. A Philippine cabstand. Filipino dignity. A charming scene. | 82 |
LETTER XII.
CHINESE NEW YEAR—LABOUR CONDITIONS—A CINÉMATOGRAPH SHOW |
| The Chinese New Year. Question of Chinese labour. A cinÉmatograph entertainment. Unpleasant habits. An interesting audience. Diplomatic warfare. A half “’cute” native. A Filipino philosopher. Tropical rain. | 95 |
LETTER XIII.
SOME INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE, SCENERY, AND RELIGION |
| The Rainbow. Sugar industry. A beautiful view. Unchanging charms. “Always afternoon.” The fascination of the East. Missionaries. A keen advocate. La Iglesia Filipina Independiente. | 103 |
LETTER XIV.
VOYAGE TO MANILA |
| A journey to Manila. The mail steamer. Food for Esquimaux. A comfortable night. Dream Islands. Dress for Europeans. Manila. The harbour. Curious reasoning. American hustling. A charming house. The Luneta. | 110 |
LETTER XV.
AN OFFICIAL ENTERTAINMENT |
| Evening on the Pasig River. MalacaÑan Palace. An evening fÊte. The Arms of the Philippines. “The Gubernatorial party.” “Manila at a glance.” The Gibson Girl. An amusing episode. A drive in Manila. The fashions. Manila shops. A market for the best diamonds. A “mixed” wedding. | 120 |
LETTER XVI.
MANILA AND ITS INHABITANTS |
| The suburbs of Manila. Hawks. A nursery-garden. Orchids. By the bandstand in the evening. Manila society. A city of cards. Intramuros. Americanised Filipinos. The American Ideal. Blind pride. Bilibid prison. Arts and crafts. The “Exposition” and the inquiring voter. The Philippine sky. A steamer on fire. A procession of death and degradation. “Sport.” A visit to MalacaÑan. A beautiful woman. Some lovely embroideries. Manila prices. Mr Taft and his Chinese servants. | 128 |
LETTER XVII.
DEMOCRACY AND SOCIETY IN MANILA |
| A Mestizo party. Seeking for democracy. And finding aristocracy. A shopping expedition. Chinese enterprise. Bridge again. A devotee and enthusiast. | 143 |
LETTER XVIII.
THE RETURN VOYAGE AND MY COMPANIONS |
| Home letters. The Simla of Manila. The return journey to Iloilo. A crowded ship. My cabin-mate. Filipino school
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