The knots so far described are used mainly for fastening rope ends together or for ending a rope. A quite different class of knots is that used for fastening a rope to a stationary or solid object. This type of knots is known as hitches.

Hitches as well as other types of knots should be easily made, should not slip under strains and should be easily untied. If all ropes were the same size and stiffness it would be possible to select two or three knots which would meet all requirements. But, since this is not true and since a knot suitable for a silken fish line will not be satisfactory for a ship’s hawser, we find a great variety of knots, each of which is designed to meet some special requirements of service. The following illustrations show a variety of the most typical and useful knots used on fiber or manila rope.

Fig. 49. The Half-hitch is good only for temporary fastenings where pull is continuous. It is usually used as part of a more elaborate hitch.

Fig. 50. The Timber-hitch is very similar to the Half-hitch but is much more permanent and secure. Instead of the end being passed under the standing part once it is wound around the standing part three or four times as shown.

Fig. 51. The Clove, or Builder’s-hitch, is more secure than either of the above hitches. It will hold fast on a smooth timber and is used extensively by builders for fastening the staging to upright posts. It will hold without slipping on wet timber. It is also used to make the scaffold hitch.

Fig. 52. The Rolling-hitch is made by wrapping the rope three or four times around the object to which it is to be fastened and then making two half-hitches around the standing part of the rope. It is then drawn tight. This hitch is easily and quickly made and is very secure.

Fig. 53. This illustrates another type of Rolling-hitch very similar to the above but which is not as secure under a heavy strain.

Fig. 54. The Snubbing-hitch is made by passing the rope around the object to which it is desired to fasten it, and then making what is known as a Taut-line hitch, Figure 68, about the standing part of the rope.

Fig. 55. Timber-hitch and Half-hitch is a combination of the two separate hitches shown in Fig. 49 and Fig 50. It is more secure than either used alone.

Fig. 56. The Chain-hitch is a combination of the above hitch and two or more half-hitches. It is used for hauling in a larger rope or cable with a tow line, etc.

Fig. 57. The Twist-hitch is more secure than the Half-hitch and it is suitable only where the strain is continuous.

Fig. 58. Twist-and-bow-hitch is similar to the Simple Twist-hitch but is easier to untie.

Fig. 59. The Blackwall-hitch is widely used as illustrated. The greater the strain the more securely it holds, but it is unreliable if the rope is slack. This hitch can be used with chain as well as rope.

Fig. 60. The Lark’s-head with toggle is easily made and is used as a rule where it is desired to have a type of hitch which is easily and quickly released.

Fig. 61. Round-turn-and-half-hitch is suitable for a more or less permanent method of attaching a rope to a ring. Whipping the end to the standing part of the rope makes it quite permanent.

Fig. 62. The Fisherman’s hitch is used for fastening large ropes or lines to rings and is very similar to the hitch shown in Fig. 61. It is improved by whipping the free end to the standing part.

Fig. 63. The Cat’s-paw-hitch is suitable for attaching a hook to the middle part of a rope where the ends are not free. Strain may be taken on either or both ends. It is easily released.

Fig. 64. The Slippery-hitch is easily made, but has the objection that it draws very tight under strain, making it hard to untie.

Fig. 65. The Double Blackwall is similar to the Single Blackwall and is used for the same purpose.

Fig. 66. The Slip Knot and Half-hitch constitute a combination that is used for the same purpose as the Flemish loop. It is made by first tying a slip knot so that it will run on the short end of the rope. Then complete by tying a half hitch with the short end as shown.

Fig. 67. The Fisherman’s-bend is similar to the Fisherman’s-hitch except that the half hitches are replaced with whipping.

Fig. 68. A Taut-line-hitch is used for attaching a rope to another rope already under strain, where no slack is available for making any other hitch. It is not secure unless pulled very tight. A few threads of hemp or marlin served about the taut line for the knot to pull against will improve the hitch.

Fig. 69. The Jam Hitch is used in tying up light packages, such as bundles of lath, small boxes, rolls of paper, and the like. It is a hitch that will slide along a cord in one direction, but will jam and hold against moving the other way and will be found exceedingly convenient. The Jam Hitch will answer the requirements provided the cord is large enough and of not too hard a body nor too smooth a surface.

Fig. 70. The Scaffold-hitch is very useful for slinging a scaffold so that it will not turn in the sling. It is started by making a Clove hitch with the two free ends of the rope below the scaffold. Then draw each rope back on itself and up over opposite sides of the board, where the short end is joined to the other with a bowline. Plenty of slack in the Clove will make it possible to draw the bight of each end out to the edge of the scaffold as shown in the left of the figure. The two illustrations at the right of the figure show another method of making a Scaffold hitch. Wrap the rope around the scaffold plank so that it crosses the top of the plank three times. Pull the middle loop as shown by the arrow and fold it down over the end of the plank, resulting as shown in the illustration immediately to the left of the arrow. This is completed by attaching the free end to the standing part with a bowline. Both hitches are equally good.

Fig. 71. The Studding-sail-bend is frequently employed on shipboard for attaching a rope or line to a spar.

Fig. 72. The Midshipman’s-hitch is somewhat similar to the Snubbing hitch shown in Figure 54, but is perhaps a little easier to make if the rope is under a strain while being tied.

Fig. 73. A Bale-sling as shown is useful where it is necessary to hoist an object to which it is difficult to attach the hoisting tackle. It may be used on bales, sacks, kegs, etc.

Fig. 74. The Hamburger hitch is useful in connection with a bale sling which is too long for the object it is carrying. It is also used to balance the load where two slings are used. The sling is placed around the load as in Fig. 73. Then with the loop end of the sling form a second loop as shown. Where the two ropes cross start to tie a square or Reef knot. Draw up the loops as shown, resulting in the Hamburger hitch. This may be adjusted by running the knot up or down the rope while slack, but it will not slip under strain.

Fig. 75. Sling for a cask, head up, is very useful where it is desired to hoist an open barrel of water or lime or other material. Tie an ordinary knot over the barrel lengthwise. Then separate the two ropes in the middle of the twisted part and drop them over the head of the cask or barrel. Fasten the two rope ends together above the barrel as shown with a bowline.

Fig. 76. A Well Pipe Hitch is used in hoisting pipe, where no special clamp is available for attaching the hoisting tackle to the pipe. The hitch shown will pull tighter, the harder the strain, and is also easy to untie. Pull up all slack possible in the coils when forming the hitch, in order to prevent slipping when the strain is first applied.

Fig. 77. The Hackamore hitch is commonly known and used as an emergency rope bridle or halter, in the western part of the United States. Among sailors it is known as a running turk’s head, and it may be used in carrying a jug or other vessel of similar shape. When used for a halter about twenty feet will be required. The knot is started by forming a bight in the center of the rope. Proceed as indicated in the successive illustrations shown. The result will be a running turk’s head. Draw together the two center ropes forming a bridle complete with bit, nose piece, head piece and reins. Such a bridle is not suitable for continuous use, to be sure, but it will be found useful in an emergency.

Fig. 78. The Halter Tie is a knot preferred by some persons for use in hitching or in tying the halter rope in the stall. If properly set, it is secure and may be used in some cases in place of the underhand bowline knot. The halter tie should never be used around a horse’s neck, because if the tie is not set up correctly it forms a slip knot and its use might result in strangulation of the animal. In completing the tie draw the end through and set the knot by pulling first on the short end. This is important. If the long rope is pulled first and the kinks in it are straightened out, the tie forms a slip knot, being simply two half hitches around the rope.

Fig. 79. Horse-hitch or tie is commonly used by farmers and stockmen to tie a horse or cow with a rope, so it will not choke itself. Tie an overhand knot in the standing part of the rope and leave open. Tie another overhand knot or a Stevedore knot in the end of the rope. Loop the rope around the animal’s neck and insert the knotted end through the open Overhand knot. This hitch will not slip and choke the animal.

Fig. 80. The Manger tie is used for tying a horse or other animal to a manger or stanchion or hitching rack. The end of the halter rope is first passed through the hole in the manger with a bight or loop on the free end of the rope, tie a slip knot on the standing part. Stick the free end of the rope through the loop or bow as shown. This knot is easily and quickly tied, but under great strain will pull tight, making it hard to untie.

Fig. 81. The Figure Eight Manger Tie is superior to the ordinary Manger Tie in that it will not pull tight under heavy strain such as would occur if the animal became frightened and attempted to break away. Pass the free end of the rope through the hole in the manger or around the hitching rack. Form a bight or loop with the free end of the rope and hold the loop along the standing part. With the free end form another loop and serve around both the first loop and the standing part. Complete the tie by inserting the second loop through the first loop and secure by inserting the free end of the rope through the second loop as shown. This is easily untied by first withdrawing the free end from the loop and then pulling on same until knot is untied.

Fig. 82. The Harness hitch is employed for forming a loop on a rope in such a way that strain may be applied to both ends and to the loop without slipping. Start to tie an Over-hand knot as shown. Reach through between the two twisted parts and draw the opposite side of the loop through, following the arrow. The completed harness hitch appears as shown.

Fig. 83. The Strap hitch or Line knot is used to join the free ends of two leather driving lines on a team. It may be employed as an emergency tie for a broken line or strap but is not to be recommended as a permanent repair.

Fig. 84. The Clevis hitch is used for forming a loop on the end of a rope which is both secure under strain and easily untied.

The Diamond Hitch

The present age of high speed transportation both on land and water, and in the air as well, has served to crowd pack animal transportation back into the hills and into those few regions where rail and sail have not yet penetrated. As a consequence, pack trains are fast becoming unknown, and the skill of the packer is fast being forgotten. The skill of the experienced packer is little short of marvelous, where he can catch a more or less wild pack animal and attach from 100 to 400 or 500 pounds of stuff to his back so securely that it will ride all day without coming off. Different types of freighting, of course, gave rise to different methods of binding on the load, but the more widely used was, no doubt, some form of the famous Diamond Hitch. The early trappers of the Hudson’s Bay Company are credited with introducing the Diamond Hitch among the North-West Indians, and old trappers of the period of 1849, engaged in freighting to California, claim that the Mexicans used it at that time.

Different packers have modified and used the Diamond Hitch to suit their needs. As an example, in rough country where there is frequent trouble with pack animals falling with their load, some packers tie the Diamond Hitch so that the final knot is on top of the animal’s back where it can be easily reached and loosened with the animal down. Under more favorable conditions, other packers use a Diamond Hitch in which the final tie is made on the side of the animal near the cinch hook. In fact, out of a group of old packers from different localities, the probability is that no two would tie the Diamond Hitch alike in every particular.

The following illustrations of the Diamond Hitch are shown only as types actually in use by different men in the packing business. Other packers may have different methods of tying it more suited to the type of load they are handling. The cuts shown represent the appearance of the Diamond Hitch if the cinch were cut under the animal’s belly and the pack were flattened out and laid on the floor with the ropes undisturbed. This method clearly shows in one picture all the different parts of the hitch, so that those interested may follow it in making the hitch for themselves. The Government uses a Spanish packsaddle, or what is known as an aparejo—pronounced, ap-pa-ray-ho, but civilian packers often use the cross tree saddle. It consists of a padded board resting on each side of the animal’s backbone. These two padded boards are usually fastened together with two cross trees resembling a saw buck. There are different methods of placing the load on the saddle preparatory to lashing it fast with the Diamond Hitch. No attempt will be made to give complete instructions in packing. The hitches shown are given with the hope they will serve the prospective camper on his vacation to a retreat in the hills, or perhaps satisfy the interest of those who have heard of the Diamond Hitch but have never seen it tied.

The Two Man Diamond Hitch

Fig. 85. The Two Man Diamond Hitch is started by laying the middle of the rope lengthwise over the pack from head to tail with the free end of the rope at the head of the animal. Then the cinch hook is thrown under the animal’s belly and caught by the off packer. The near packer throws a bight over the pack and the off packer catches it in the cinch hook. The near packer pulls up on the rope, making it tight over the pack.

Fig. 86. The two ropes over the pack are then twisted one and a half times and a loop pulled through as shown. In this case the loop first formed between the rope lying lengthwise and the part crossing the pack is lowered over the near side of the pack.

Fig. 87. The hitch is then completed by the off packer, as shown. The difference between the one-man hitch and the two-man hitch is that they finish up on different sides of the animal. In the two Diamond Hitches shown, the final tightening pull is taken toward the head of the animal. Many packers tie the Diamond Hitch so that the final pull is taken to rearward of the animal. This can be done by laying the middle of the rope lengthwise of the pack with the end to the rear instead of toward the front of the animal.

Fig. 88. The packer’s knot as shown consists of a clove hitch made around a standing rope. The second half hitch is made with a bight instead of the end of the rope. One or more half hitches are then thrown over this loop to make it secure. This knot, if pulled tight in making, will hold very securely, without slipping, and is easily untied by loosening the half hitches, and pulling on the free end of the rope.

The One Man Diamond Hitch

Fig. 89. The one man Diamond Hitch is employed by one packer working alone and requires that he make two trips around the animal in tying it. The rope is braided into a ring on one end of the cinch. The other end of the cinch carries a hook. Standing on the near side of the animal at its shoulder he first lays the middle of the rope across the pack from forward to back with the free end of the rope forward. He then throws the cinch over the pack and catches the hook under the animal’s belly. A loop of the rope is then caught under the cinch hook and pulled tight. Some packers, in using the one man Diamond Hitch, find it helps to hold the hitch tight if they take a double turn around the hook in making the first tightening.

Fig. 90. Proceeding with the hitch, the two ropes over the pack crosswise are then twisted, lifting the forward strand up and back and pulling the rear strand forward and under. Two turns are made and then a loop of the rope lying forward and back over the top of the pack is drawn up between the two twisted ropes as shown. The loop formed on the off side between the part crosswise of the pack and the part of the rope crossing lengthwise of the pack, is formed over both corners of the off side of the pack. Then the loop drawn up between the two twisted ropes is lowered over the corners of the near side of the pack.

Fig. 91. The final strain is taken on the free end of the rope passing along the neck of the animal and tied at the forward point of the diamond with a packer’s knot. If the animal should fall on either side, the knot is easily reached and untied. The free end of the rope is tucked under some part of the hitch or looped over the pack or otherwise disposed of. In making the Diamond Hitch, at no time is the end of the rope pulled through anywhere. This makes it easy to take off without becoming snarled.

Fig. 92. The Diamond Hitch as mentioned above is frequently tied so that the knot occurs on the side of the animal opposite the cinch hook instead of on top. This hitch is tied so that the first loop is lowered over the rear corner only of the off side of the pack. In the two other hitches described above, the first loop included both corners of the pack, and finished with a knot on top. The Diamond Hitch shown is thrown by two packers.

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