  The “Bad Black Sea.”—Coal-field near the Bosporus.—Trebizond from the Sea.—Fish and Turkeys.—The Bazaars.—Coronas.—Ancient Tombs.—Church of St. Sofia.—Preservation of old Manners and Ceremonies.—Toilet of a Person of Distinction.—Russian Loss in 1828–9.—Ancient Prayer.—Varna.—Statistics of Wallachia.—Visit to Abdallah Pasha.—His outward Appearance.—His love of medical Experiments.—Trade of Trebizond Page 17 Departure from Trebizond.—A rough Road.—Turkish Pack-horses.—Value of Tea.—The Pipe in the East.—Mountain Riding.—Instinct of the Horse.—A Caravan overwhelmed by an Avalanche.—Mountain of Hoshabounar.—A Ride down the Mountain.—Arrival at Erzeroom 35 The Consulate at Erzeroom.—Subterranean Dwellings.—Snow-blindness.— Effects of the severe Climate.—The City: its Population, Defenses, and Buildings.—Our House and Household.—Armenian Country-houses.—The Ox-stable 45 Narrow Escape from Suffocation.—Death of Noori Effendi.—A good Shot.—History of Mirza Tekee.—Persian Ideas of the Principles of Government.—The “Blood-drinker.”—Massacre at Kerbela.—Sanctity of the Place.—History of Hossein.—Attack on Kerbela, and Defeat of the Persians.—Good Effects of Commissioners’ Exertions 61 The Boundary Question.—Koordish Chiefs.—Torture of Artin, an American Christian.—Improved State of Society in Turkey.—Execution of a Koord.—Power of Fatalism.—Gratitude of Artin’s Family Page 81 The Clock of Erzeroom.—A Pasha’s Notions of Horology.—Pathology of Clocks.—The Tower and Dungeon.—Ingenious Mode of Torture.—The modern Prison 99 Spring in Erzeroom.—Coffee-house Diversions.—Koordish Exploits.—Summer Employment.—Preparation of Tezek.—Its Varieties and Uses 105 The Prophet of Khoi.—Climate.—Effects of great Elevation above the Sea.—The Genus Homo.—African Gold-diggings.—Sale of a Family.—Site of Paradise.—Tradition of Khosref Purveez.—Flowers.—A Flea-antidote.—Origin of the Tulip.—A Party at the Cave of Ferhad, and its Results.—Translation from Hafiz 110 The Bear.—Ruins of a Genoese Castle.—Lynx.—Lemming.—Cara Guz.—Gerboa.—Wolves.—Wild Sheep.—A hunting Adventure.—Camels.—Peculiar Method of Feeding.—Degeneration of domestic Animals 125 Birds.—Great Variety and vast Numbers of Birds.—Flocks of Geese.—Employment for the Sportsman.—The Captive Crane.—Wild and tame Geese.—The pious and profane Ancestors.—List of Birds found at Erzeroom 132 Excursion to the Lake of Tortoom.—Romantic Bridge.—Gloomy Effect of the Lake.—Singular Boat.—“Evaporation” of a Pistol.—Kiamili Pasha.—Extraordinary Marksman.—Alarming Illness of the Author.—An Earthquake.—Lives lost through intense Cold.—The Author recovers Page 145 Start for Trebizond.—Personal Appearance of the Author.—Mountain Pass.—Reception at Beyboort.—Misfortunes of Mustapha.—Pass of Zigana Dagh.—Arrival at Trebizond 155 Former History of Trebizond.—Ravages of the Goths.—Their Siege and Capture of the City.—Dynasties of Courtenai and the Comneni.—The “Emperor” David.—Conquest of Trebizond by Mehemet II. 166 Impassable Character of the Country.—Dependence of Persia on the Czar.—Russian Aggrandizement.—Delays of the Western Powers.—Russian Acquisitions from Turkey and Persia.—Oppression of the Russian Government.—The Conscription.—Armenian Emigration.—The Armenian Patriarch.—Latent Power of the Pope.—Anomalous Aspect of religious Questions 178 Ecclesiastical History.—Supposed Letter of Abgarus, King of Edessa, to our Savior, and the Answer.—Promulgation and Establishment of Christianity.—Labors of Mesrob Maschdots.—Separation of the Armenian Church from that of Constantinople.—Hierarchy and religious Establishments.—Superstition of the Lower Classes.—Sacerdotal Vestments.—The Holy Books.—Romish Branch of the Church.—Labors of Mechitar.—His Establishment near Venice.—Diffusion of the Scriptures 194 Modern division of Armenia.—Population.—Manners and Customs of the Christians.—Superiority of the Mohammedans Page 209 Armenian Manuscripts.—Manuscripts at Etchmiazin.—Comparative Value of Manuscripts.—Uncial Writing.—Monastic Libraries.—Collections in Europe.—The St. Lazaro Library 213 |
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