  (1.) From jeweller’s rouge, plumbago, and suet, equal parts, melted together and stirred until cold. (2.) From prepared putty powder (levigated oxide of tin), 3 parts; lard, 2 parts; crocus martis, 1 part; triturate together. (3.) Prepared putty powder, 1 oz.; powdered oxalic acid, ¼ oz.; powdered gum, 20 grains; make a stiff paste with water, q.s., and evenly and thinly spread it over the strop, the other side of which should be covered with any of the common greasy mixtures. With very little friction this paste gives a fine edge to the razor, and its action is still further increased by slightly moistening it, or even breathing on it. Immediately after its use, the razor should receive a few turns on the other side of the strop. (4.) Mechi’s.—Emery, reduced to an impalpable powder, 4 parts; deer suet, 1 part; well mixed together. Obs.—The above (generally made up into square cakes) are rubbed over the razor strop, and the surface being smoothed off with the flat part of a knife, or a phial bottle, the strop is set aside for a few hours to harden before being used. (1.) Naples soap (genuine), 4 ozs.; powdered Castile soap, 2 ozs.; honey, 1 oz.; essence of ambergris, and oils of cassia and nutmegs, of each 5 or 6 drops. (2.) White wax, spermaceti, and almond oil, of each ¼ oz.; melt, and, while warm, beat in two squares of (white) Windsor soap, previously reduced to a paste with a little rose water. (3.) White, soft soap, 4 ozs.; spermaceti and salad oil, of each ½ oz.; melt them together, and stir until cold. It may be scented at will. When properly prepared, these pastes produce a good lather with either hot or cold water, which does not dry on the face. The proper method of using them is to smear a minute quantity over the beard, and then to apply the wetted shaving-brush, and not to pour water on them, as is the common practice. Essence of Soap, Shaving Essence, or Shaving Fluid.White hard soap Chiefly used for shaving, by travellers and others, to avoid the trouble of carrying or keeping a soap-box. By simply rubbing two or three drops on the skin, and applying the shaving brush, previously slightly dipped in water, a good lather is produced. The choice of perfume is a mere matter of taste, as with toilet soaps, 15 to Cold (boiled) water, ½ gallon; spirit of rosemary, 10 ozs.; eau de Cologne, 10 ozs.; glycerine, 2 ozs.; salts of tartar, 1 oz.; liquor ammonia, ½ oz. Colour with burnt sugar. Take of sesquicarbonate of ammonia, and carbonate of potash, of each, 2 drachms; soft water, 1 pint; dissolve, and add the solution to a mixture of tincture of cantharides, 1½ fluid ounces; rectified spirit, ¼ pint; and good rum, 1½ pints; and agitate the whole well together, adding a little scent or not, at will. A commoner kind, in which the “rectified spirit” and one-third of the “rum” is replaced by water, forms the “shampoo liquid” often used by hairdressers, after cutting the hair. Take of essential oil of almonds, 1 fluid drachm; oil of cassia, and essence of musk, of each, The best and most effective of these consists of glycerine dissolved in any fragrant distilled water, as that of roses, or orange or elder flowers, in the proportion of 1 to 1½ ounces of the former, to 1 pint of the latter. Some of them also contain 15 to 20 grains of salt of tartar per pint. Egg julep, or saponaceous wash, is made as follows:—Rectified spirit, 1 pint; rose-water, 1 gallon; extract of rondeletia, ½ pint, transparent soap, ½ oz.; hay saffron, ½ drachm; shave up the soap very fine; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the rose-water; when dissolved add the remainder of the water, then the spirit, finally the rondeletia, which is used by way of perfume. After standing for two or three days it is fit for bottling. By transmitted light it is transparent; but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly and singularly wavy appearance when shaken.—Piesse. Bay Rhum.Tincture of bay leaves, 5 ozs.; otto of bay, 1 drachm; bicarbonate of ammonia, 1 oz.; biborate of soda (borax), 1 oz.; rose water, 1 quart. Mix and filter. Piesse says: “This is a very good hair-wash. It was first introduced in New York by those go-ahead scissors that ‘abbreviate’ the ‘crown of glory.’” Another.Bay leaf otto, ½ oz.; magnesium carbonate, ½ oz.; Jamaica rum, 2 pints; alcohol, 3 pints; water, 3 pints. Triturate the ottos with the magnesium carbonate, gradually adding the other ingredients, previously mixed, and filter.—Snively. Powder, either plain or scented, is the best counter-irritant after shaving, but as some persons give the preference to bay rhum, the following formula may be adopted:—Bay rhum (of the ordinary strength), 8 ozs.; rose water, 8 ozs.; glycerine, 2 ozs. Mix, and let it stand for a few days, then filter. Should this be found too powerful for general use, add more rose water. A solution of castor oil in eau de Cologne, 1 part in 4. Another: Glycerine and eau de Prepared (benzoated) lard, 3 lbs.; clarified beef suet, 1½ lbs.; palm oil, ½ lb.; yellow wax, 4 ozs.; castor oil, 1 lb.; olive oil, 1½ lbs.; ess. oils of bergamot, lemon, and cloves, of each, ½ oz. Finest olive oil, 3 lbs.; castor oil, ½ lb.; ess. lemon 1½ ozs. To colour, steep 1 oz. of alkanet root (bruised, and tied in muslin) to every 20 ozs. Apply heat by means of a water bath, and filter. THE END. 2. For the convenience of those who desire the information, I may state that Messrs. R. Hovenden & Sons keep all the necessary implements in stock, and supply them to the trade. 3. Vide The Hairdressers’ Chronicle, 15th July, 1876. 4. See illustration in Chapter V. 7. Concerning French weights, measures, and money, the following information will, doubtless, be useful:—The unit in weights is the gramme. 28 of which go to the English ounce; 1,000 grammes are called a kilogramme, or, shortened, a kilo., equal in weight to 2 lb. 3 oz. 4 drs. English avoirdupois. The unit in measures is the metre, equal in length to 39? inches English. The metre is divided into 1,000 parts, each of which is called a millimetre; 10 millimetres are called a centimetre. The length of a centimetre is rather more than one-third of an inch English, the figure in decimals being 0·39371. One foot English is equal to 304 millimetres, and an inch equals rather more than 25 millimetres. The unit in money is the franc, equal to ninepence-halfpenny English. The franc is divided into one hundred parts, each of which is called a centime; five centimes are called a sou; and a sou is rather less in value than a half-penny. 8. Donisthorpe v. Jowett, 1876; vide Law Report in The Hairdressers’ Chronicle. 17. There are (or used to be) silk nets made for the purpose, very strong and durable, and could be procured where the “trimmings” are usually sold. The crown of this net is left rather loose and threaded on a silk cord. The cord is held up, which gathers the loose meshes together, when it should all be fastened, and thus a caul net well fitting the head is formed. 18. I mention six inches because hair of that length is most convenient for a learner to practise with, but you will have to knot hair of various lengths, from the shortest for gentlemen’s perukes, to very long for ladies’ wigs. 24. Figs. 38 and 39. 30. See Chapter V. 32. A Treatise on the Use and Management of a Razor, by Mr. Savigny. 33. Olive-oil (white Castile) soap, or almond oil soap is here intended. It should be moderately dry when weighed, next reduced to thin shavings, and then further desiccated by exposure to warm, dry air, but no artificial heat should be employed. By replacing a portion (say one-third) of the above with an equal weight of dry, white tallow soap (i.e., curd soap) the “lathering” quality of the essence will be increased. Wertheimer, Lea & Co., Printers, Circus Place, London Wall. ADVERTISEMENTS. R. HOVENDEN & SONS, 31 & 32, BERNERS ST., OXFORD ST., W., AND 91, 93, & 95, CITY ROAD, E.C., LONDON. HAIR MERCHANTS & MANUFACTURERS Wholesale Perfumers, FANCY SOAP MAKERS AND GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN for HAIRDRESSERS. Importers of Essential Oils, Sponges, French Pomades & Oils, Fancy Combs, Etc. THE LARGEST and MOST COMPLETE STOCKS IN LONDON OF MANUFACTURED HAIR, Trimmings, Partings, Ornamental Hair, COMBS IN HORN, SHELL, & RUBBER, HAIR, TOOTH, NAIL & CLOTH BRUSHES, CUTLERY, MIRRORS, HAIRDRESSERS’ TOOLS, AND SHAMPOOING REQUISITES. Proprietary Articles In Perfumery Kept in Stock or procured at short notice. ? NO TRAVELLERS represent the Firm. Their enormous expenses being avoided, R. H. & SONS can offer their Goods from 10 to 20 per cent, below those Houses who employ them. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE POST FREE UPON RECEIPT OF BUSINESS CARD OR INVOICE HEADING. ESTABLISHED 1846. EDWIN CREER, Hairdresser, Wig-Maker, & Manufacturing Perfumer, MAKER OF CHIGNONS, TWISTS, SWITCHES, PLAITS, CURLS, AND ALL KINDS OF ORNAMENTAL HAIR. 589, COMMERCIAL ROAD EAST, LONDON, E. 589, COMMERCIAL ROAD EAST, LONDON, E. Dealer in Combs, Brushes, Fancy Goods, and other Requisites for the Toilet. POMADES, OILS, WASHES, PERFUMES, POWDERS, HAIR DYES AND RESTORERS, Etc. ARTIST IN HAIR—ESTABLISHED 1846. EDWIN CREER, 589, COMMERCIAL ROAD EAST, LONDON, E., MANUFACTURES ALL KINDS OF HAIR JEWELLERY FOR THE TRADE, Rings, Brooches, Bracelets, Watch-Guards, &c.,—and Device-Work of every description. ? Best work guaranteed, and at the lowest possible prices.
Letters of inquiry, as well as others requesting, price list and designs, should enclose a business card, and a STAMP for reply. Terms—Cash on or before delivery. HAIRDRESSERS ABOUT COMMENCING BUSINESS As well as those already established, WILL FIND AT R. HOVENDEN & SONS’ WAREHOUSES THE BEST SELECTION OF SCISSORS, COMBS, RAZORS, BRUSHES, TOWELS, SHAMPOOING APPARATUS, And every requisite for the Trade at Prices which DEFY COMPETITION. R. HOVENDEN & SONS Hold the largest Stock of Human Hair in the Kingdom. PATTERNS MATCHED, And, except in extraordinary colours, sent per Return of Post. THEATRICAL HAIR—A SPECIALITY. Current Prices are advertised in The Hairdressers’ Chronicle. PRICE LIST POST FREE ON APPLICATION. R. HOVENDEN & SONS, LONDON. R. HOVENDEN & SONS’ Seven-Guinea Complete Outfit.
These Goods are always in Stock, and may be selected from a great variety. We shall be glad to send estimates for lower or higher priced outfits. R. HOVENDEN & SONS, LONDON. R. HOVENDEN & SONS have always in Stock a large assortment of Tools and Fittings suitable for Board-work. A full List will be found in their Annual Catalogue.
GAUZE HOOKS, KNOTTING NEEDLES, & WIG NETS in great variety. R. HOVENDEN & SONS, LONDON. VOOGD’S SPECIALITIES. Voogd’s Razors (Registered) Hollow Ground. These Razors, if properly stropped, will wear for a considerable length of time, and are strongly recommended for trade use. Made with Square, Round, or Irish Points, in 5 sizes, viz., ½ in., ? in., ¾ in., ? in. and 1 in. PRICE, any size, Black Handles, 30s. per dozen. PRICE, any size, Ivory Handles, up to ? in., 44s. per dozen. VOOGD’S SCISSORS. With Finger Rests, 6½, 7, and 7½ ins., 32s., 38s., and 44s. per dozen. With Flat Shanks. 6½, 7, and 7½ ins., 24s., 30s., and 36s. per dozen. To avoid imitations see that both Razors and Scissors are stamped with the Registered mark, thus— VOOGD DepÔt: R. HOVENDEN & SONS, London & Paris. |
|
