Elliott Coues

[I-1] Belle Fontaine or Bellefontaine is the name of the large cemetery in the environs of St. Louis, where William Clark lies buried; and probably few persons now living know its proper geographical connotation. The cemetery is four miles from the Court House, and ten miles further is the place whose name was given to the burying-ground on the road thither, after its original designation as the Rural Cemetery. Belle Fontaine was a place on the south bank of the river, 14 m. north of St. Louis, in what is now St. Ferdinand township of St. Louis Co. (Sect. 10, T. 47 N., R. 7 E. of this county). Before there was any such "place," or locality, Belle Fontaine was the French name of the creek which falls in there, which had been called Ferdinand by the Spanish, and which became known to the English as Cold Water creek, there being a fine large spring under the bluffs, close to the Missouri. This, however, was washed away by the encroachment of the river. We find the latter name in Lewis and Clark, who made the first camp of their expedition on Green isl., opposite the mouth of the creek, May 14th, 1804. There was nothing then at the place that was soon to become forever notable as the spot where was built the first military post ever established in the newly acquired territory of Louisiana. Much early history attaches to the locality, some of which may be here epitomized, mainly on the basis of Billon's Annals. In 1768, when St. Louis was but begun, Captain Rios arrived with 25 soldiers under orders from Count Ulloa to establish Spanish authority in the region where things were at a standstill, if not in distraction. Rios was persona non grata in the infant St. Louis; he withdrew, and selected Belle Fontaine as a suitable location for a post. Late in 1768 he there built a fort which he called Fort Prince Charles in honor of the son of his king and heir apparent to the Spanish throne. In 1769 Rios left with his men; in 1770 Piernas came. The Spanish presidio was soon turned into a commercial factory or trading-post. On Sept. 10th, 1797, Governor Zenon Trudeau granted to Hezekiah Lord a concession of 1,000 arpents of land on Belle Fontaine or Cold Water cr.; and on the site of the former Spanish fort Lord built a house and mill. He died in 1799; his estate was sold in partition in 1803, when 600 arpents were bought by William Massey. In 1805, General James Wilkinson selected the place for a military establishment, and United States troops were first cantoned in temporary quarters during the winter of 1805-6. This was the original Cantonment Belle Fontaine. On April 20th, 1806, General Wilkinson purchased from Massey, on behalf of the United States, five acres of ground with the improvements, called Belle Fontaine, with the use for five years of the ground on which had been located the cantonment, and upon these five acres established a permanent post. In July, 1806, he purchased the rest of the tract of 500 arpents, which was conveyed to the United States in Mar., 1809. Belle Fontaine was really the parent of Jefferson Barracks; for, after the establishment of Forts Atkinson, Snelling, and others on the Missouri and Mississippi frontiers, it lost its importance from a military point of view, and was abandoned for the site of the present Jefferson Barracks. This in 1825; on July 4th of which year Colonel Talbot Chambers, with four companies of the 1st United States Infantry, evacuated Belle Fontaine and proceeded to the new site which had been selected, though the place remained for some ten years in charge of a military storekeeper, Major John Whistler. General Lewis Cass, Secretary of War under Van Buren, ordered it to be sold at public auction in 1836. It was bought by Jamison Samuel, Dunham Spalding, H. N. Davis, and E. L. Langham, who laid out a paper town that never came to anything. Agriculture finally reclaimed Belle Fontaine after the military occupancy; it was bought for a farm by the late Dr. David C. Tandy of St. Louis, whose son, Robert E. Tandy, now or lately did live there. The old road can still be traced in part over ground where it ran more than a century ago.

[I-2] The roster of the party, with some of the most notable particulars, is as follows:

COMMISSIONED OFFICERS (2).

1. Captain Zebulon M. Pike. Escorted to Mexico from his post on the Rio Conejos, with six privates, by Spanish dragoons, Feb. 26th, 1807. His men, excepting one left with Jackson, were Brown, Carter, Gorden, Menaugh, Mountjoy, Roy, and Stoute.

2. Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson. Detached to descend the Arkansaw with five men, from camp near Great Bend, Aug. 28th, 1806.

NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS (3).

1. Sergeant Joseph Ballenger. Went with Wilkinson.

2. Sergeant William E. Meek. Sent from Rio Conejos to relief of abandoned men, Feb. 19th, 1807.

3. Corporal Jeremiah R. Jackson. Left in charge of post on Rio Conejos, with Carter, Feb. 26th, 1807, to await return of Meek and Miller with Vasquez, Smith, Sparks, and Dougherty.

PRIVATES (16).

1. John Boley. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.

2. Samuel Bradley. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.

3. John Brown. Left with Jackson on Rio Conejos, Feb. 26th, 1807.

4. Jacob Carter. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.

5. Thomas Dougherty. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains with frozen feet, Jan. 22d, 1807.

6. William Gorden. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.

7. Solomon Huddleston. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.

8. Henry Kennerman. Deserted July 19th, 1806.

9. Hugh Menaugh. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains, Jan. 27th, 1807; recovered on Rio Conejos, Feb. 18th, 1807; went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.

10. Theodore Miller. Went with Meek to relief of abandoned men, Feb. 19th, 1807.

11. John Mountjoy. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.

12. Alexander Roy. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.

13. Patrick Smith. Left with Vasquez on the Arkansaw at site of present CaÑon City, Jan. 14th, 1807.

14. John Sparks. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains with frozen feet, Jan. 22d, 1807.

15. Freegift Stoute. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.

16. John Wilson. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.

CIVILIANS (2).

1. Dr. John H. Robinson, volunteer surgeon. Left Pike on the Rio Conejos to proceed to Santa FÉ alone, Feb. 7th, 1807.

2. Interpreter A. F. Baronet Vasquez. Left with Smith on the Arkansaw, at site of present CaÑon City, Jan. 14th, 1807.

Of these persons—

(1) Lieutenant Wilkinson, Sergeant Ballenger, and Privates Boley, Bradley, Huddleston, and Wilson descended the Arkansaw and reached New Orleans in February, 1807.

(2) Private Kennerman deserted.

(3) Dr. Robinson left Captain Pike at the post on Conejos r., and went to Mexico on his own account.

(4) Captain Pike, Sergeant Meek, Corporal Jackson, Privates Brown, Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Smith, Sparks, Stoute, and Interpreter Vasquez were escorted in separated parties to Mexico by Spanish dragoons. Of whom—

(5) Captain Pike, Privates Brown, Gorden, Menaugh, Roy, and Stoute were escorted back to the United States, and reached Nachitoches on or about July 1st, 1807; while—

(6) Sergeant Meek, Corporal Jackson, Privates Carter, Dougherty, Miller, Mountjoy, Smith, and Sparks, and Interpreter Vasquez, were still detained in Mexico at the time of Pike's return, and are not accounted for in his narrative.

(7) The 51 Indians, which raised to 74 the total of persons who left Belle Fontaine, were all dropped at their respective destinations, and no others were permanently attached to the party which reached the Rocky mts.

[I-3] Past present Jamestown ldg. to Carbunker's pt., off which the large Pelican isl. now separates Car of Commerce bend from Pelican bend.

[I-4] See L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 6, and Pike's Dissertation, etc., beyond. The village was then the seat of justice of the District of St. Charles, Louisiana Territory, as it is now of St. Charles Co., Mo. The Wabash, St. L. and Pac. R. R. bridged the Mo. r. here; opposite is Bon Fils station; also Brotherton. St. Charles was not so called till 1784; the place had been known as Les Petites CÔtes, where the hunter Blanchette settled about 1770: note⁴¹, p. 214. In to-day's journey Pike passed the place known as Piper's (or Fifer's) ldg.: see the mark "Ferry" on his map. The principal point was the coal hill on the south, then known as La CharbonniÈre, now Charbonnier pt. A present or recent place of ferriage is Music's or Hall's; some of the landings are Heagler's, Kemp's, and Orick's or Orrick's; some of the present islands above the Pelicans are Charbonnier or Mullanphy, Holmes, and Vingt-une. There was a marsh or lake on the N. side, 5 or 6 m. below St. Charles, which the French called Marais Croche, Crooked marsh; some maps now make it Marie Croche l.

[I-5] M. de Lisa was one of the most noted Missourian Indian traders in those days. This is certainly not the last, and probably not the first, time he played exactly that trick. Pike has a good deal to say of him further on: see also L. and C., pp. lxxix, 62, 242, 256, 443, 1153, 1154, 1232, where my notes refer to further information in Brackenridge's Travels and Irving's Astoria. Lisa was at one time associated with Captain Clark in the fur-trade.

[I-6] One of the two letters Pike wrote to Wilkinson formed No. 3 of the App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed. See beyond, where it is given.

[I-7] See L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. 2, 8, 1182, 1211; also, p. 1257, where Charette's cr. and village are given, showing this to be a personal name. We come to the place presently.

[I-8] This letter formed No. 4 of the App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed. It is given beyond.

[I-9] This mileage would set Pike about Cottleville ldg., on the N., though I hardly think he got quite so far. He passed Fee Fee and CrÈvecoeur creeks on the S., latter discharging from CrÈvecoeur l.; Little Duckett and Big Duckett creeks, near together, on the N.; Catfish isl., behind which is Howard bend, into which Bon Homme or Good Man's r. falls, about opposite the middle of Green's bottom, N., 3½ m. long, separated by Green's chute from Bon Homme isl., next above which comes Bacon's or Post's isl., and then Cottleville ldg. If Pike reached this place, he was 44 m. from the mouth of the Missouri, according to recent charts.

[I-10] Late Sergeant Henry Kennerman, reduced to the ranks for cause at Pike's stockade on the Upper Mississippi r., Mar. 9th, 1806: see p. 181 and note¹⁰, p. 245. He was posted as a deserter in various places, but we are not told he was retaken. He drops out of the story at this point. With Kennerman deserted, Vasquez arrested, and Geo. Henry engaged, the whites of the party are now 23 - 2 + 1 = 22; Vasquez rejoins on the 21st, when the roster is again 23.

[I-11] Position uncertain, especially as the text of the 18th-20th cannot be squared with the camp-marks on Pike's map. Going by the text, which agrees with the actual geography better than the map does, we may set Pike in the vicinity of St. Albans. To reach this point from his last camp he passes places on the N. now known as Cottleville ldg., Hamburg, and Dozier's ldg. At the last named Femme Osage r. falls into the lower end of Dozier's bend. The Missouri is here 1½-2 m. broad, and mostly filled with Howell's isl., 2½ m. long, some small islands, and various sand-bars. Thence on the N. or rather N. W. is a bottom 8 m. long and a mile or more deep; while on the S. E. is a nearly unbroken line of bluffs which the river washes from Port Royal (in Franklin Co., just over the border of St. Louis Co.) to St. Albans. At one place in these rocks is the cave formerly, and perhaps still, known as the Tavern: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 8, and Pike's map, place lettered "Cave." The small stream which makes in on the S. W. at St. Albans is still called Tavern cr.; and directly opposite is Murdoch's ldg. The Mo. R. Comm. charts of 1879 mark a place Missouriton on the N. W., 2 m. below Murdoch's ldg. Nicollet's map, pub. 1843, marks Missouriton on the N., slightly below mouth of Femme Osage r., about position of present Hamburg.

[I-12] The "point to the south" which Pike passes I take to be that opp. Cottlebaum's ldg., at the mouth of Ridenour or Fiddle cr., at the head of the difficult place called Devil's Race-ground by Lewis and Clark: see ed. of 1893, p. 8. This is a couple of miles above St. Albans, at the 55th river-mile point of recent surveys. The bluffs continue a mile or so, and then, at the mouth of Labadie's cr. or slough, begins the extensive Labadie's bottom on the S., for the Missouri crosses over to the bluffs on the N., and continues on that side to the town of Augusta, St. Charles Co. Thence the channel runs obliquely by the Augusta and Hinkley bends, between Labadie's and Hancock's bottoms, to the S. side again. Here, at Mung's or South Point isl., is the lower end of the "long reach," N. W., in which Pike says he camped. We set him on the S., at the mouth of Dubois or Wood cr., where there is now a place called South Point. This is directly opposite the line between St. Charles and Warren cos. on the N.; it is about 2 m. below Washington, Franklin Co., and at the 67th mile-point from the mouth of the Missouri. Pike maps the stream in the right place, but by the wrong name of "Ash R."

[I-13] The proper name of the interpreter, whom Pike usually calls "Baroney," was A. F. Baronet Vasquez. He was b. St. Louis, 1783; his wife was Emily Faustine Parent. He was the son of Benito Vasquez (b. 1750) and Julia Papin (married Nov. 27th, 1774), and was the fifth child of 12 they had. He appears in army registers as Barony Vasquez, appointed to be an ensign in the 2nd Infantry Dec. 12th, 1808; transferred to 1st Infantry Oct. 31st, 1810; commissioned as second lieutenant Mar. 4th, 1811; promoted to a first lieutenancy July 30th, 1813; and resigned Oct. 1st, 1814. See also a letter about him in my Memoir of Pike, anteÀ.

[I-14] See note⁷, p. 361. La Charette is still the name of the stream, and of the extensive bottom on the N. side through which the river seeks the Missouri. But the settlement once so called is not to be found by this name on modern maps. Instead of this we have Marthasville (3 m. N. of which stands still the house in which Daniel Boone died), a village about a mile from the Missouri, and nearly midway between the points where La Charette cr. and Tuque cr. respectively enter the bottom. Marthasville appears on maps of 50 years ago, as for example, on Nicollet's, 1843. Gass calls the place St. Johns where he camped May 25th, 1804; it then had seven houses: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 8. St. Johns is now the name of the largest one of a cluster of islands and sand-bars in an expanded part of the Missouri, between the mouth of La Charette cr. on the N. and of St. Johns or Bourbeuse cr. on the S., 2 m. and more above the town of Washington, Franklin Co. Pike maps "S^t. Johns R." correctly between his "Ash R." (error for Wood or Dubois cr.) and his "Bay R." (error for Boeuf r.). Washington is the most notable place Pike passes to-day; it is now quite a town, large enough to have started a place opposite itself, called North Washington, on Lac's pt. in Warren Co. Here is where, at the 69th river-mile point, a creek falls in on the N.; it is commonly called Tuque cr., though Sheet III. of the Mo. R. Comm. charts has "Duke" as the name. It looks like a French word, but whether it be a personal name, or derived from Toque or Turque, does not appear. It is one of two creeks which L. and C. speak of passing on the N., May 25th; the other one of these has never been identified. But there is an old lake bed, or something of the sort, a couple of miles back of North Washington, in Hancock's bottom, under the bluffs, and I imagine this once discharged about opp. Dubois or Wood cr.—say at Rieskamp's place, on the boundary between St. Charles and Warren cos. Tuque cr. itself seems to have had more than one outlet, in the course of the several miles it meanders the low land and separates Hancock's bottom from La Charette.

[I-15] Originally Docs. Nos. 5 and 6, p. 33 and p. 36 of the App. to Pt. 2. They are given beyond.

[I-16] To camp at New Haven, Franklin Co., a considerable town which has grown up of late years at the place formerly known as Miller's ldg., on the S., a little below Pinckney pt. Passing through Charette bend, beyond Patton's pt. and ldg., Pike comes to the mouth of the RiviÈre au Boeuf of the French, now Boeuf or Buffalo r., which falls in on the S. behind Boeuf, Buffalo, or Shelton's isl., about a mile below Dundee station of the Mo. Pac. R. R. This is the stream by error lettered "Bay R." on Pike's map. On rounding Emily and Miller bends, Pike comes to his camp, say at the 85th river-mile point of late surveys. Here he is 1½ m. below a place which was charted by Nicollet in 1843 as Griswold, and which may be found on maps of but few years ago, but has since disappeared. On the N., opp. Griswold, was a place called Pinckney or Pinckneyville, seat of Warren Co. about 1825, and there is still a hamlet of the same name in the vicinity. The Shepherd r. which the above text mentions falls in about a mile above Griswold and the same below the present R. R. station Etlah. This is Shepherd's cr. of L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 9, but is oftener now called Berger r. or cr. I am told by R. J. Holcombe that the word is not the common F. noun berger, a shepherd, but a personal name, probably of the old German pioneer Caspar Burger, a founder of the colony there; if so, it should not have been translated into English. The word is mangled into "Boeger" on the beautiful chart of the Mo. R. Comm. It is a pity that so many cases as bad as this one mar the lettering of such fine draughtsman's work as Mr. D. W. Wellman's. Berger's or Burger's cr. comes into the bottom 2 m. above its mouth, and is there joined by Little Berger's or Burger's cr., which runs about 4½ m. in the bottom before its confluence; the two thus make what is known as Berger's (i.e., Burger's) bottom nearly an island, 6 or 7 m. long.

[I-17] On rounding Pinckney pt. through the bend of that name, Pike passes the mouth of Berger's cr., opp. Yeager's ldg., crosses to the N. side of the Missouri, and sails along with Berger's bottom on his left for several miles; he goes by Whitehouse's isl., near which L. and C. were camped May 26th, 1804, and on finishing with Berger's bottom, reaches a place on the N. called Bridgeport. This is pretty old for a Missouri River town; we find it located more than 50 years ago, and it still exists in name, but has never amounted to much. Opp. Bridgeport is Bates' isl., 2 m. long, the largest one of several at the head of Berger's bottom. In the vicinity of Bridgeport several small creeks fall in on the N. Three of these are called Lost cr., Massas (qu. Massey's?) cr., and Malhern (qu. Malheur?) cr. Excepting Lost cr., these fall into Chenal À Loutre or Otter slough; and this snicarty cuts off a very large piece of bottom known as Île À Loutre or Otter isl. L. and C. speak of this as nearly 10 m. long, and say that it was one of the most fertile in the whole river. The details of the river bottom along here seem to have altered a good deal since 1804, and even since Long's time; the upper end of the slough is now a little above Hermann, near McGirk's isl. and ldg., cutting the island down to a total length of not over 7 m. The slough itself is very narrow, and hardly more than a sluggish creek, like a good many others that meander bottoms before they discharge. L. and C. speak of three creeks which fall in behind Otter isl., and one of these as having the same name. This is RiviÈre À la Loutre of early F. settlers, now Loutre, Louter, or Luter r., and Otter r., very curiously lettered on the Mo. R. Comm. map, as "L'Outre"—a form which only needs an accent to be decidedly outrÉ. Pike maps the stream as "Otter Riv." He proceeds by Otter or Loutre Island bend to a mile or so above Hermann, and camps on the S. In finishing the bend just named he passes on the S. the county line between Franklin and Gasconade, which cuts through Bates' isl., and then on the N. the line between Warren and Montgomery cos., which cuts the upper part of Otter isl. at the lower point of Hermann isl., opp. the town of this name. This is now quite a place, and more than 50 years old. It is situated across the mouth of RiviÈre aux FrÊnes of the F., commonly called Frene cr. and Ash cr., but uncommonly appearing as "Frame" cr. on the Mo. R. Comm. map. Pike does not map Ash cr., though it is given under this name by L. and C.: for the stream he marks "Ash R." by mistake, see note¹², p. 363.

Loutre isl. is quite historic. A number of Americans and some French families settled there in 1805; first child born was Jacob Grosjean (name corrupted to Groshong); one b. 1806 became the local celebrity known as "old man Patton," living in 1884. Fort Clemson was built by Capt. Clemson about 1808, and maintained till after the war of 1812-15. From 1808 to 1816 there was quite a colony, whence were drawn the settlers for Boone's Lick, Howard Co. On the N. mainland the colonists, when the war broke out, were killed in part, and the rest driven to the island to be "forted up" till the peace. Fort Clemson was a Rangers' hdqrs. in the war, and from this post Capt. James Callaway, grandson of Daniel Boone, set out in March, 1815, on the expedition up Loutre r., during which he and others were killed. Daniel Boone's Spanish grant from Gov. Delassus was about 15 m. up the Loutre, and included a salt spring—the original and only genuine "Boone's Lick"; Boone's adopted son Van Bibber kept a tavern there, where Washington Irving stopped some time in the '30's; it is now reputed a medicinal spring in the little village Mineola, near Danville, seat of Montgomery Co.

[I-18] Passing McGirk's ldg. and isl. N., Cole's or Coles' cr., S., Rineland and Kallmeyer's ldgs., S., to the mouth of the Gasconade, which falls in on the S., opp. Cuyler's pt., 107? m. up the Missouri: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 9. This is much the largest tributary of the Missouri thus far reached; Pike elsewhere allows it 200 yards' width at the mouth, and navigability at times of 100 m. He also notes that the Sac boundary started opp. its mouth: see note¹⁴, p. 11. Gasconade City is a place on the tongue of land that makes into the Missouri on the upper side of the Gasconade; being a mere village or hamlet, is as appropriately named as the river itself, which got its name from the way some persons bragged about their exploits when they returned to St. Louis. Beck's Gaz. speaks of pine which was cut and rafted down, but there has been none for 60 years within 150 miles.

[I-19] One of these letters, given beyond, formed No. 7, p. 36, of the App. to Pt. 2. of the orig. ed.

[I-20] Pike's map marks no camp for the 26th. The distance between Gasconade and Osage rivers is exactly 30 m. by the channel. Pike says he goes 15 m. to-day; I doubt that he went so far if he did not leave the Gasconade till 6.30 p. m. But to take the record on its face would be to set him a mile above Fisher's ldg., on the S., in the vicinity of the hamlet called Chamois, in Osage Co. On decamping and ferrying over the Gasconade, Pike first passed the mouth of Bailey's cr. (Deer cr. of L. and C.), on the S., whence the channel took him obliquely to Bluffton on the N., 5 m. above the Gasconade. The bluffs border the river for about 4 m. along here, and at one place in them is the cave which used to be known as Montbrun's Tavern: see L. and C., l. c. At 1 or 1½ m. above Bluffton the line between Montgomery and Callaway cos. comes to the Missouri just about opp. the line between Gasconade and Osage cos. on the S.; this last strikes the river-bottom just where Bailey's cr. also does. At 5 m. above Bluffton is Portland, Callaway Co., before reaching which Pike passes Little Tavern and Big Tavern creeks, which are a mile apart, on the N., and both opp. Portland isl., 2 m. long; while a mile above Portland is the mouth of Logan cr. On the S. along here is a creek whose mysteries I have never been able to fathom. This is Rush cr. of L. and C., l. c., given by them as 4 m. above Montbrun's Tavern, on the S. It is called Greassy cr. by the Mo. R. Comm., and Greasy cr. by the U. S. G. S.; the latter name is probably correct. It comes into the bottom in the vicinity of Chamois, about the 121st river-mile point, meanders down for several miles, and finally discharges behind Portland isl., somewhere between the 117th and 115th m. of the Mo. R. Comm.

[I-21] To an interesting locality—that of the old French village, CÔte sans Dessein, so called from the celebrated long narrow ledge of rocks of the same name immediately above, isolated on the N. bank of the river opposite Dodd's isl. In approaching the Osage, Pike maps two streams from the N., respectively lettered "Gr. R. au vase" and "L. R. au vase." The first of these is Grande RiviÈre au Vase or Grande RiviÈre Vaseuse of the F., which appears on the best modern maps as Au Vasse and Auxvasse r.—better talk English than such Missouri French as this, and say Big Muddy r., as L. and C. did! This considerable stream falls in a mile above Harrison's ldg., about 123½ m. by the channel from the mouth of the Missouri. The other is Little Muddy r. of L. and C., who translated Petite RiviÈre au Vase (or Petite RiviÈre Vaseuse) better than those do who now style it Au Vasse cr. or Auxvasse cr. This creek joins in the bottom-land another now called Middle r. or cr., and the two fall in together a mile above the village of St. Aubert, Callaway Co. Moreover: between the Big and the Little Muddy there is a third creek, distinct from both the others, falling in 1½ m. below St. Aubert. This is simply called Muddy cr. on the Mo. R. Comm. map; on that of the U. S. G. S. it is lettered Ewing's cr. A branch of this is lettered by the U. S. G. S. East Wing cr.—a name which I suspect originated in mistaking "Ewing" for "E. Wing." On the S. side of the Missouri Pike passes two small streams, both historically notable. The first of these is the one which L. and C. called Grindstone cr., when they camped at its mouth May 30th, 1804; but it is now known as Deer cr. It falls in behind St. Aubert's isl., a mile below St. Aubert station on the Mo. Pac. R. R., or the village now called Medora, 126? m. up the Mo. r. One Carr has or had his home at the mouth of this creek. The other creek is 4¾ m. above Grindstone or Deer cr., and 1¼ m. above Shipley's ldg.; it is the one L. and C. called Bear cr., May 31st, 1804; Pike charted it "Bear R.," and it is now called Bear or Loose cr. I suppose "Loose" cr. to be a loose translation of F. R. À l'Ours or À l'Ourse, according to whether it was a he-bear or a she-bear which the Frenchman who first named the creek killed there. In any event this stream has given name to the village of Loose Creek and to Bear Creek isl., opposite its mouth. Four miles higher on the S., opposite the foot of Dodd's isl., is the village of Dauphine at the place where one BenÊt, BÉnite, Benoit, Bennet, Bonnet, Bonnot, or Bennight built his mill, 15-20 years ago. Dauphine is almost exactly opposite the site of the old French village above named, which started about 1808 and had a dozen or more families in 1811. There is a sort of settlement in this vicinity immediately at the lower end of the CÔte sans Dessein, at one time known as Bennet's ldg.; people named Gray, Crews, and Maddox live or lived there. Behind the CÔte are some small lakes or ponds discharging by R. aux Riveaux or Riveaux cr. (as it is called) around the upper end of the CÔte, near Dearing's ldg. Hence it is only 1½ m. diagonally across the Missouri to Glenn's ldg. at the mouth of the Osage r. See L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 11.

[I-22] Arising in the Ozark mts. of Kansas, the Osage r. leaves that State and enters Missouri in Vernon Co., which it delimits in part from Bates Co.; traverses St. Clair and continues past the corner where this, Henry, and Benton cos. adjoin; traverses Benton, enters Morgan, forms a part of the boundary between this and Camden, makes a loop through the latter and again separates it for a short space from Morgan, then for a little distance separates Camden from Miller, traverses the latter, enters Cole, and finally runs to the Mo. r. between this last and Osage cos. We shall learn much more of this stream as we follow it up in Pike's wake. There is a village called Osage City at its mouth on the west bank; Pike's camp is also on this side, in Cole Co., past two small tributaries known as Caddy and Sandford's creeks, and not far above Maries r., which comes from Pulaski through Maries (named for two French girls) and Osage cos. to fall in on the E. or right (left hand) bank. A Spanish fort (trading-house) was built about 1795 near the mouth of the Osage.

[I-23] No further indication of camp of 29th, which is also omitted by the draughtsman or engraver from Pike's map; nor is there any notable modern locality along here. But it must be short of where the Osage, after coursing in Cole Co., begins to separate the latter from Osage Co. Nearest present settlements, Babbtown, Osage Co., and St. Thomas, Cole Co.

[I-24] In Cole Co., and a mile or two above Proft's cr.; about 2 m. N. E. of St. Thomas, and 4 m. S. E. of Osage Bluff.

[I-25] Camp a little above Big Tavern cr., from the E., in Miller Co., on whichever side of the river it was pitched. There is no mark on Pike's map for this camp, nor those of Aug. 2d and 3d. The nearest named places to the camp of July 31st and Aug. 1st, and that of Aug. 2d (only 2 m. further), are St. Elizabeth, on Big Tavern cr., and Mary's Home, west of the Osage—both in Miller Co., but both some miles away from the river. On breaking camp this morning, Pike passed on his right the bluffs from which the hamlet of Osage Bluff takes its name; this is about a mile north of the river. He later passed Babruly cr., from the W., whose name is obviously a corruption of Bois BrÛlÉ; then Sugar cr., from the E., and next Little Tavern cr., falling in from the W. a mile or two below Big Tavern cr. There was more than one cave or "tavern" in the bluff near the creek: see figure of one, where the early Osage boatmen used to put up, in the Mo. Geol. Reports.

[I-26] Passing Cub cr., right; Humphrey's and Panther creeks, left; then the present Saline cr., on the right. This is laid down and lettered "Saline R." on Pike's map; but observe that it is not the Saline r. of Aug. 7th: see that date. Above Saline cr. Pike passes Dog cr., left, and then present site of Tuscumbia, seat of Miller Co., on the right; and camps at or near present site of Brockman, on the right, a mile above Bear cr., in the same county.

[I-27] Taking Pike past a place called Bagnell, on the right, just below present Little Gravois cr., in Miller Co., and setting him somewhere about the point on the river where Miller, Morgan, and Camden cos. come together—the latter on the S., the two former on the N. side, as the river is here running E. His camp of Aug. 4th and 5th is marked on his map, on the left, just below the mouth of his Little Gravel r., which he passes on the 6th: see next note.

[I-28] On the right hand as Pike ascends, left bank of the Osage, and rather on the N. than W., as the general course of the river is to the E. The "Gravel" rivers of Pike require attention in identifying them with ours. The Osage is here making an ox-bow bend, which reverses points of the compass so far as a traveler's right and left are concerned. The stream now in question, Gravel r. of the above text, lettered "L. Gravel R." on the map, is that now known as Big Gravois, Gravis, or Gravel cr., running in Morgan Co., with a place called Gladstone near its mouth, one known as Gravois Mills higher up, and some of whose branches are called Indian, Soap, and Mill creeks. Cape Galena is 2½ m. above the mouth of this river. Present Little Gravois cr. is that one with Bagnell just below its mouth; it is laid down by an unlettered trace on Pike's map. The correct form of the word is Gravois, being F. gravois, rubbish, rubble, whence "Gravel."

[I-29] Not the Saline r. of Pike's map, which was passed on the 3d. "Saline river" of the present text is a slip of the pen or memory; Pike meant to say Great Gravel r., as correctly laid down by this name on his map on the left or south, being lettered "G. Gravel R." This is not the Great Gravel or Big Gravois cr. of present maps, but the considerable stream now known as Grand Auglaise cr.—a name also perverted from the F. word glaise, clay, into Glaize or Wet Glaize cr. It heads in Laclede and Pulaski cos., in close relation with sources of the Gasconade, and runs about N. N. W. through Camden Co. to fall into the Osage from the S., on the right bank of the river, on Pike's left, at or near a place called Blackman's Mills. The Osage is here turning from its E. course to N., whence it soon bends W., then loops N. and again E., where it receives present Big or Pike's Little Gravel r., and completes another ox-bow bend. Camp of the 7th, opposite the notable bluff called "La Belle Roche," is marked on Pike's map, not far above a place now called Damsel, on the other side of the Osage; whence the Yungar is reached for breakfast on the 8th.

[I-30] Sic, usually in Pike, and I make no change. But "Cheveux Blanche" is a phrase joining a masculine plural noun to a feminine singular adjective. The English ed. alters to Cheveu Blanc; but as doubtless the savage had more than one hair of that color, probably Cheveux Blancs would be better in form and fact for the F. name of the person also known as White Hair.

[I-31] Before the Youngar is reached Pike passes on his left Linn cr.; county seat called Linn Creek, a mile above its mouth. The name of the river has fluctuated widely. Pike has Yungar, Youngar, and also Nehemgar; the latest G. L. O. and U. S. G. S. maps letter Niangua. The word, whatever may be its preferable form, is the Osage name of the bear, though by some it is said to refer to the numerous springs at the sources of the stream. It is by far the largest tributary of the Osage thus far reached; Pike credits it with a canoe navigation of 100 m. The main stream heads in Webster Co., in relation with sources of the Osage fork of the Gasconade, and runs through Dallas Co., also touching the W. border of Laclede, into Camden; its tributaries are numerous and widespread. One called Little Niangua falls in on the W., 6 or 8 m. above the mouth of the main river. To-day's voyage takes the Expedition past Purvis, and finishes about 4 m. above Bolinger or Bollinger cr., from the S., on which are the Osage Iron Works.

[I-32] Pike's map marks none of the places passed to-day by the names given in his text. We have therefore a triple adjustment to make—of map with text, and of these with modern geography. This I can do, bearing in mind that Pike does not necessarily mention places in the order in which they are passed en route, and that all his mileages are guessed at by the hours spent in making them. His map marks camp of Aug. 8th a good ways above the Niangua, and I set it 4 m. above Bolinger cr., as already said. For the 9th the map has: (1) Big Rock cr., right; (2) Rapids; (3) Slave r., right; (4) camp, right. The facts in the case are: Pearson's branch, left; Wells' branch, right; Proctor cr., right, on which is Proctor; Raney, Rainey, or Rainy cr., left, with Crittenden at its mouth—none of the foregoing noted by Pike in any way; then (1) Little Buffalo cr., right, on or near which is a place called Search; (2) rapids along a long curved bluff, right, with three little creeks on the left; (3) Big Buffalo cr., right, with a place called Riverview at its mouth; (4) camp, right. This makes about 25 m., barely over the border of Morgan into Benton Co., Big Buffalo cr. falling in just short of the same boundary; whence it is evident that (1) Big Rock cr. of the map is (1) Little Buffalo cr., on which is Search; (3) Slave r. of the map is (3) Big Buffalo cr., on which is Riverview; and this last is the Upper Gravel cr. of the text. This ends the day, for by no stretch can we get Pike past Pottoe r. of the text: see next note for this.

[I-33] Text gives no geography to-day, but the map shows three large streams between the camp-marks of 9th and 10th. These are: (1) a river, left, lettered "P. R."—that is, "Pottoe" r.; (2) Francis r., right; (3) Cardinal r., left. The facts in the case are: Knobby cr., left, small, at lower point of Williams isl., large; (1) a large creek, left, falling in at head of Williams isl., called Beaver cr. on the G. L. O. map, Deer cr. on the U. S. G. S. map, and on which is a place named Hastain; 2 m. above its mouth is another place called Duroc, on the S. bank of the Osage; (2) a very large creek, right, variously called Vermilion, Coal Camp or Cole Camp cr.; (3) a very large creek, left, called Turkey cr. These three are of the relative sizes and in the relative positions of the three that Pike charts; so that unquestionably "P. R." or "Pottoe" r. of Pike's map is (1) the Beaver or Deer cr.; (2) Francis r. is the Vermilion or Cole or Coal Camp cr.; and (3) Cardinal r. is the Turkey cr. It is true Pike says his Pottoe cr. was passed on the 9th; but his map shows otherwise; and if it had been, that is a question of the location of camp for the 9th, not affecting the identification of the streams here made. The queer name "Pottoe" I suppose to be intended for Poteau, and not a misprint for Potatoe: see the name Pomme de Terre or Potatoe for a river further on. Where Pike got his name Francis r. I have no idea. His Cardinal r. I imagine was so called by some confusion with Vermilion r.; for cardinal and vermilion are two names of a red color—in the one case worn by certain church dignitaries on their heads, in the other by cochineal insects on their bodies. Camp of the 10th (and 11th) is 3 or 4 m. above Turkey cr.

[I-34] The lacuna of the orig. text can be supplied from the map, which marks camp of the 12th as above said. On decamping this morning Pike passed what he charts as Cave cr. This is the middle one of three insignificant runs which make in on the right. "Vermillion" r. of to-day is a mistake. This is the stream Pike charts as Deep cr., on the right, immediately below Grand r., and is that now called Little Tebo, Teabo, Tabo, Tebeau, etc. These are commonly supposed to be forms of a personal name; but I am informed by R. I. Holcombe they are perversions of Terre Beau, old name of the prairie in Lafayette Co. where the "Tebo" r. that flows into the Missouri rises. The Osage tributary called Tebo, etc., falls in a mile below Grand r.; its E. fork is meandered for some miles by the Sedalia, Warsaw and Southern branch of the Mo. Pac. R. R., which then leaves the creek and strikes the Osage 2½ m. below Warsaw. This is the county seat of Benton, on the N. bank of the Osage, 2 m. below Little Tabeau cr. and three below Grand r., opposite the very large island also called Warsaw. Grand r. of the text and present maps is the largest branch of the Osage passed since the Niangua was left. It falls in on the N., a mile below Wright's isl. Some of its affluents head not far from Independence (on the Mo. r.), and others in Kansas. Its largest branch is Big cr.; others are Deep Water and Big Tabeau. Camp is in the bight of the bend that receives Grand r., between Wright's and Holloway isls.

Pike has mapped the river unmistakably along here, rendering identifications easy; but the text is not so correct, and requires the interpretation I have given. The mileages of the 10th-12th seem excessive. Here, as in various other places, he seems to have supplied the loss of orig. notes from memory.

[I-35] In making the circuit Pike passed two rivers which he charts by name as "Hallico R." and "Potatoe R.," both from the S., or on his left as he ascends. Potatoe is clearly the same name as Pomme de Terre, by which latter title is now mapped the large stream which heads in Webster Co., cuts the N. E. corner of Green, perhaps also the S. W. corner of Dallas, then traverses Polk and Hickory, and in Benton falls into the bight of the bend of the Osage herein mentioned. The natives call this river "Pumly Tar." Two miles above its mouth it receives the Little Pomme de Terre, from the W., in the vicinity of Fairfield. A much smaller stream, next above on the same hand, which is received in the same bend of the Osage, is Hogle's cr. The relative situations of these would make Pike's Hallico correspond to Pomme de Terre, and his Potato to Hogle's. But I have no doubt he meant by Potato the river now called Pomme de Terre, and we need not insist upon the reversal of names, especially as there may be some small stream below to answer to Hallico, and it would be nothing for Pike to pass over so small a creek as Hogle's, both in the text and on the map.

[I-36] This letter formed Doc. No. 8 of the App. to Pt. 2. The name, omission of which causes the hiatus in the text, is Chouteau. The letter was sent by one Baptiste La Tulipe, who is no doubt the man of whom we read in FrÉmont, Rep. 1845, p. 18: "I had found an old companion on the northern prairie, a hardened and hardly-served veteran of the mountains, who had been as much hacked and scarred as an old moustache of Napoleon's 'old guard.' He flourished in the soubriquet of La Tulipe, and his real name I never knew."

[I-37] Near the N. E. corner of St. Clair Co. and the S. E. corner of Henry Co. The Park is a narrow, somewhat rectangular loop of the Osage, including some bold bluffs in its bight. The distance was much under "28" m., unless the river were then even crookeder than it is now. We have to foreshorten the mileages along here, in order to bring Pike into anything like the proper position above the mouth of Sac r. on the 16th. He passes five or six small creeks to-day, the last and largest being charted by Pike as Buckeye cr. This is Wright's, from the S., in St. Clair Co. A mile above this is a large island, which seems to be Pike's Turkey isl.; and a mile above this is another, probably that on which he camped.

[I-38] That is to say, Lieut. Wilkinson, Dr. Robinson, the interpreter, and one soldier, who left the boats to march across country with some of the Indians, thus avoiding the periplus of several bends in the river.

[I-39] Pike is still considerably below the present site of Osceola, at the neck of the last remarkable bend the river makes some 6 or 7 m. (direct distance) from that town. At present this loop is 4 or 5 m. around and about a quarter of a mile across at the narrowest part. It receives several creeks from the N. E., E., and S., the highest and largest now called Bear cr. In this day's course, which does not include the circuit of the bend, Pike charts a certain "East River," which he runs in directly from the W. This corresponds in position with the stream now called Muddy cr., but if meant for that it is drawn much too large—half as large as Grand r. itself.

[I-40] Several points require attention in this long course, whatever its actual length may have been. 1. Passing Osceola in the forenoon, Pike reaches his "Grand Fork," i.e., the confluence of Sac r. with the Osage, at noon. This is clear, and the distance seems about right from the place where I set his camp of the 15th. But the streams he charts on this course, below the forks, are not more easily disposed of than was the "East" r. 2. Thus, on the same side as "East" r., about halfway from this to the forks, he lays down two small streams from the W., the lower of which he names Light cr. There are in fact several such; and it may be reasonable to assume that by Light cr. Pike means the largest of them. This is the one now called Gallinipper cr., which falls in a mile below Osceola, and which is now meandered for a few miles by both the Kansas City, Clinton, and Springfield R. R., and the Kas. Cy. and Southern R. R. 3. After rounding the bend above described, and passing the Bear cr. there said, Pike passes two creeks on his left, from the S., one of which he charts by the name of Lime r. This probably answers to the stream now called Wablo, or Weablo, or Weaubleau cr. The other one of the two is Brushy cr. But the identification of Lime r. with Weaubleau cr., and of Light with Gallinipper, throws both out of relative position, and introduces a difficulty which can only be done away with by supposing an error of the map. 4. Osceola is the seat of St. Clair Co., on the left hand going up river, 3 or 4 m. below the mouth of Sac r. This village is notable as a point up to which steamboats used to come, especially during our Civil War; it was burned in Sept., 1861, by "Jim" Lane (James Henry Lane, b. Lawrenceburg, Ind., June 22d, 1814, committed suicide at Leavenworth, Kas., July, 1866); pop. lately 331. 5. Two of the little crosses which usually mark Pike's camps are superfluous for the 14th-16th. One I cannot account for; the other evidently marks the spot where Bel Oiseau was killed, as there is the legend "Beloiseau Kill'd." Pike usually calls him Belle Oiseau; but the French noun is of the same gender as the Indian himself. He was also known as Beautiful Bird. 6. The Sac is about as large as the Osage at their confluence; it runs on an average due N. course from Lawrence, through Dade and Cedar, into St. Clair Co. We are told by the old pioneer "Jack" Beard that the river was so called because a party of Sacs (probably of the Missouri River band) camped on it about 1820; in the fall of 1861 Sterling Price's rebel army were on this river for several weeks. 7. Camp is set on the left bank or right hand of the Osage, above Salt cr., right, and just below the mouth of the stream from the N. called Mine r. in the text, but lettered "Mire Cr." on the map. This is the Little Monegan, Monegau, or Monegaw cr.; the place called Monegaw Springs is in the vicinity. (The name may be preferably Monega, Osage word for "wolf.")

[I-41] Legended "Chouteau's" on the map, where the cross × also does duty for to-night's camp, two miles higher up. The spot can be identified by the coal bank and shoal mentioned, though the "41½" m. assigned for the day's journey take us beyond the confluence of the Little Osage, and we see by tomorrow's itinerary that we are still half a day's sail short of that point. Pierre Chouteau's place was known in Spanish records as Fort Carondelet, and was built about 1790 at what is now called Halley's Bluff named for Col. Anselm Halley. It was an actual fortification with mounted swivels, which Lieut. Wilkinson speaks of in his Report (given beyond); but it was only maintained for a few years. The post is twice noticed in the Hist. of Vernon Co., 1887, by R. I. Holcombe, who informs me that he went over the ground, including Blue Mound, Timbered Hill, and other places in the vicinity, and that some old caches in the sandstone may still be seen. 1. In the course of to-day's voyage the map shows a large stream, unnamed, falling in from the N., on the right-hand or left bank. This is evidently intended for Big Monegan or Monegaw cr.; place called Dollie at its mouth. 2. Higher up, on the other side, another nameless cr. is charted, from the S. This is Beshaw, better called Clear, cr.; quite large, coming from Barton, through Vernon, past the N. W. corner of Cedar, into St. Clair Co. 3. Above this, Pike has two traces, both from the N., unnamed. One of these doubtless represents Panther or Painter cr., in Bates Co. Here the Mo., Kan. and Tex. R. R., a branch of the Mo. Pac. R. R., crosses the Osage between Rockville on the N. and Schell City on the S. of that river. These places are 4 m. apart. A mile or two below this crossing the Osage now forms a circle circumscribing a large round island, nearly a mile in diameter, which may have been a bend in Pike's time. Several smaller streams than those just named fall into the Osage on either side, in the course of a few miles, as Miller, McKenzie, Shaw, Willow, and Lady's. The "10 French houses" Pike speaks of were opp. the mouth of Lady's cr. (named for one Wm. Lady). Camp was on the N. W. side of the Osage, near Lady's cr., and thus in the vicinity of Papinsville (old Harmony Mission).

[I-42] A most important point in this itinerary, for here is the junction of the Little Osage with the main stream, which latter Pike now leaves to proceed up the former to the villages, and so on into Kansas, etc. He elsewhere says: "The three branches of the [Osage] river, viz.: the large east fork [i.e., Sac r., lying E. of where he now is], the middle one up which we ascended [i.e., Little Osage], and the northern one [i.e., main Osage]." The present confluence is at the point where Bates and Vernon cos. begin or cease to be separated by the meanders of the Osage; for the Little Osage runs in Vernon Co., and the main Osage, above the confluence, runs in Bates. There is a conspicuous mound in the prairie, a short distance S. of this "second fork," giving name to Blue Mound township. Both forks head beyond (W. of) the Missouri State line, in Kansas, in which State the main Osage r. bears the name of Marais des Cygnes. The "large drift" in the Little Osage which stopped the boats is marked and so legended on the map, a short distance above the forks. It seems to have been above the mouth of Muddy cr., which falls in from the N. within 2 m. of the forks, and was probably about the place where there is now some marshy ground on the W. side, opposite Horseshoe l. The latter is a mile long around the curve, and discharges by a short stream into the Little Osage, from the S., between the forks and the mouth of Muddy cr. Doubtless it was once the bed of the river. Close by this lake, an eastward bend of the Little Osage receives a creek from the S.; and beyond this was the Grand Osage village, close to which Pike established what he calls Camp Independence, on the E. side of the river, near the confluence of Marmiton or Marmaton r. This stream falls in from the S., and is rather larger than the Little Osage; in fact, it forms with the latter the main forks. The Marmiton receives Drywood cr. a few miles above its confluence with the little Osage. The name of this river is apparently the F. word marmiton, scullion, from marmite, pot or kettle; the settlers pronounce it "Mommytaw." For other features of the locality we may note that the river bottoms are here below the 750-foot contour line, which represents the general level of the surrounding prairie; and that there is an isolated mound or butte of 850 feet or more on the E. side of the Marmiton and close to this river, at the first bend it makes eastward. The Marmiton is otherwise notable in the present connection, as Pike's further route goes between it and the Little Osage.

[I-43] A letter received from General Wilkinson by this express formed Doc. No. 9 of the App. to Part 2.

[I-44] Joseph Browne, who in 1806 was first Justice of the Court of Common Pleas in and for the District of St. Louis, appointed by Governor and General Wilkinson Tuesday, Mar. 18th, 1806; in 1807 he was Territorial secretary, and sometimes acting governor. He was succeeded by Frederick Bates, appointed secretary by Jefferson, May 7th, 1807: see L. and C., p. 1236. The "Babtiste Larme" of the above paragraph is elsewhere called by Pike "Mr. Baptist Duchouquette alias Larme." Billon's Annals of St. Louis for 1764-1804, pub. 1886, p. 437, has "Jno. B. Duchouquette, usually called Batiste Lami." Among the signers of a paper relating to the erection of a Roman Catholic church in St. Louis, Oct. 30th, 1819, is found "Batiste × Duchouquete" (his mark). The alias occurs in various forms, as Lamie, Lamy, Lamme, etc. J. B. D. was son of FranÇois Lafleur Duchouquette and CÉleste Barrois; b. about 1760, d. May, 1834; married Marie Brazeau, St. Louis, 1798.

[I-45] The village of the Little Osage Indians was about 6 m. higher up and on the other (west) side of the river of the same name. Marmiton r. falls in between where the two villages were. These were so well-known to the traders and others in Pike's time that he does not take the trouble to say exactly where they were; nor are we favored with the precise location of Camp Independence, "near the edge of the prairie." But there is of course no question of the exact site of a village which stood for more than a century: see for example Holcombe's Hist. Vernon Co. Hundreds of Osages were buried on the mound, to which their descendents used to come from Kansas to cry over them, as late at least as 1874. Among the remains rested those of old White Hair himself, until his bones were dug up and carried off by Judge C. H. Allen of Missouri. In the vicinity of the upper village is now a place called Arthur, where the Lexington and Southern Div. of the Mo. Pac. R. R. comes south from Rich Hill, Bates Co., and continues across both Little Osage and Marmiton rivers; a mile W. of its crossing of the former, on the S. of that river, is the present hamlet called Little Osage. All Pike's positions of Aug. 18th-Sept. 1st are in the present Osage township.

[I-46] This census of the Grand Osage village was contained in a letter which in the orig. ed. formed Doc. No. 12 of the App. to Pt. 2, being a folded table opp. p. 52, with a tabular "recapitulation" on p. 53. The matter is given beyond.

[I-47] Three letters from Pike to Wilkinson which went by this express formed Docs. Nos. 10, 11, 12 of App. to Pt. 2. One of them is dated from "Camp Independence," by which we learn the name Pike gave his station: see beyond.

[I-48] So far as the white men are concerned, the party is identical with that which left Belle Fontaine (see the roster, pp. 358-360), excepting Kennerman, deserted, which reduced the privates from 16 to 15, and further excepting the additional interpreter, one Noel alias Maugraine. (Mr. George Henry, who is left here, was engaged after the start, and therefore does not affect this count.)

[I-49] By "Grand Osage fork" Pike means the stream on which was the Grand Osage village, i.e., Little Osage r. By "fork of the Little Osage" his actual implication is Marmiton r., near which was the Little Osage village—though the phrase happens to be verbally applicable, as the Marmiton is the fork of the Little Osage r. Pike's course "N. 80° W." at the start would seem to conflict with the dot-line on his map; but this is simply due to faulty projection of the streams: see next note. Observe also that the course of Sept. 1st is simply a swing-around to the mouth of the Marmiton, whence Pike revisits the Grand Osage village. There is no camp-mark for this day; the first + set is camp of the expedition of Sept. 2d, before Pike had rejoined his party.

[I-50] Which the party had made on the 3d before Pike joined them. Their camp of the 2d is the first one marked on the map, and this of the 3d is the second one so marked. This we know from the position marked for the 6th, just over the divide, and three camps ahead of this of the 3d. Pike is now first fairly en route. The faulty projection of his map makes him seem to go E. of S. till the 6th, and then turn W. abruptly. The course of the Little Osage is practically from W. to E., and Pike ascends it the whole way, having it at a considerable distance to his right. His trail is over the prairie between the Little Osage and Marmiton rivers. This is to be particularly noted, as some have vaguely supposed Pike "followed up the Osage river," i.e., the main Osage (Pike's "North fork"), and then wondered how he came where we presently find him. In fact, he goes almost due W. from Missouri over into Kansas. Camp of the 3d was in the vicinity of the present town of Little Osage. Gregg's map, on which Pike's trail is traced for the most part with all the accuracy that the small scale allows, starts him into Kansas too far S.—a good way S. of Fort Scott, which is correctly located on the Marmiton.

[I-51] Misleading, at first sight; but "Grand river" here means that stream on which was the Grand Osage village. Pike and Robinson simply took an excursion of 6 m. to the Little Osage and back to camp, supposed to be 13 m. from that of the 3d. It was considerably past Rinehart, and probably in the vicinity of Hoover, a place 2 m. E. of the inter-State line; or perhaps just over this boundary, which here runs on a meridian of longitude (about 94° 37´). This vicinity is notable as the scene of the raid of old John Brown in Dec., 1859, when this extraordinary compound of saint and sinner, whose prophetic visions of the coming struggle had startling distinctness, killed a man and stole some negroes and horses. Pike has entered or will immediately enter the N. E. portion of Bourbon Co., Kas., in the vicinity of places called Hammond, Fulton, and Barnesville. The two former of these are on the Kansas City, Fort Scott, and Gulf R. R. I suppose Pike to be about 10 m. N. N. E. of Fort Scott, the county seat of Bourbon. This is a well-known city, on Marmiton r., at the point where Mill cr. falls in. Its military name is a legacy from former days, the fort having been built in 1842; pop. now about 12,000.

From the present station we have to trail Pike clear across Kansas to a point on the Republican Fork of the Kansas r., just over the middle of the northern boundary of the State. This is not easy. It would be impossible to do so with precision, had we only the slender thread of text to guide us. His Indians took him a roundabout way by the Smoky Hill r. The whole country is flat, with a complicated river-system; Pike cuts through it, incessantly crossing creeks and rivers, not one of which does he follow for any considerable distance after he leaves the Osage basin. The names of the many small towns and stations, as well as of the small streams, will be recognized by few non-residents. Fortunately we have the trace dotted on his map, and though this is far out of drawing for absolute geography, its relative positions are recognizable for the most part. I am satisfied that the course I lay down for Pike is true to his route in all its main features. The whole of this Kansan route would be in the Missourian watershed, were it not for the northward extension of the Arkansan basin in the drainage of the Neosho and Vermilion rivers. This Pike enters as soon as he leaves the Osage basin, crosses, and quits before reaching the Smoky Hill: see the two places legended "Dividing Ridge," etc., on his map. If we suppose, what I see no reason to question, that his camp-marks are all right, his marches of Sept. 5th to 17th may be summarized as follows: Sept. 5th, further up Little Osage r.; 6th, over divide to Arkansan waters of the Neosho r.; 7th, approaching the Neosho; 8th, across this river; 9th, further along S. of it; 10th, across subdivide of Vermilion river basin; 11th, heading this river, and across subdivide into Neosho basin again; 12th, across Cottonwood fork of the Neosho; 14th, further along this fork; 15th, across divide from these Arkansan to Missourian waters again; 16th, nearing Smoky Hill r.; 17th, across this river. (Total distance from the Osage villages about 210 m., by Pike's mileages of Sept. 1st-17th about 250 m.) The counties crossed are Bourbon, Allen, Woodson, Coffey, Lyon, Chase, Marion, Dickinson, and Saline. Further details in following notes.

[I-52] The whole of this way is W. up along the S. side of the Little Osage, for the most part at a considerable distance from the river, which here has a northward convexity. But for some miles after leaving Camp Independence, Pike must have kept pretty close to the south side of the Little Osage, to avoid the unnumbered mounds into which the country further to his left is broken. The hill to which Pike came in the forenoon represents a rise from the general 750-foot level hitherto traveled to about 1,100 feet. From its southern slopes, Mill and Wolverine creeks gather to flow into the Marmiton at and near Fort Scott; while from the other side some small runs seek the Little Osage. Camp is in Bourbon Co., somewhere in the vicinity of Xenia, Zenia, or Hay, a small place near a branch of the Little Osage.

[I-53] Pike does not mean that the Arkansaw r. itself is otherwise called White r., but the waters of the Arkansaw River basin he has reached are those of a river called the White, which is perfectly true. He elsewhere calls this Grand r. He also discusses whether this White r. be a tributary of the Arkansaw or of the Mississippi, and comes to the latter erroneous conclusion. This White or Grand r. of Pike is the Neosho; a large stream which waters much of southeastern Kansas, leaves the State in Cherokee Co., enters Indian Territory, and falls into the Arkansaw on the boundary between the Cherokees' and the Creeks' country. Its general course is S. E., then S. Pike lays it down pretty well on his map, by the name of Grand r., and I find it so charted on various modern maps. Pike runs it into the Arkansaw all right, and makes its Cottonwood fork the main stream, out of all proportion to the little creek he traces for the other fork; but there is not much difference in the two streams, which unite in Lyon Co. some 8 m. below Emporia. From the vicinity of Xenia, in Bourbon Co., Pike has to-day continued about W., by or near the station Bayard of the Mo., Kas., and Tex. R. R., in Allen Co. Having thus headed all Osage (Missourian) waters, he strikes and crosses the divide, and camps on the head of a small tributary of Elm cr., a branch of the Neosho (Arkansan waters). I suppose his camp to be at a point about equidistant from Bayard and two other places called respectively La Harpe and Wise—perhaps rather Bayard, La Harpe, and Morantown.

[I-54] The two streams concerned in Pike's approach to the Neosho are Elm and Deer creeks. Elm is the large forked one which falls in close below Iola, county seat of Allen. Deer cr. is the next above, falling in about 4 m. above Elm cr. Pike's map indicates that, after passing some insignificant heads of Elm cr., he got into its forks, then crossed its north branch near Iola, and camped on Deer cr., very near the junction of this with the Neosho. I do not know whether horses can swim in Deer cr.; if not, the only alternative stream would be the Neosho itself. But the map sets Pike on the east branch of Deer cr., and there I leave him.

[I-55] The Neosho, Neozho, or Neocho r. "A grand fork of the White river" is ambiguous; but becomes intelligible if we remember that he has just spoken of the "Arkansaw, alias White river." Pike's ideas of what he calls "White" and "Grand" r. were not clear. There is no stream in his present vicinity large enough to be dignified as the "grand fork" of the Neosho itself; we must understand him to mean the Neosho, as being itself a grand fork of whatever he meant by "White" r. The Neosho was long and often called Grand r.; "Neosho or Grand R." is lettered on Gregg's map. Pike never says where he crossed the Neosho, nor in fact does he inform us that he ever crossed it—unless it was when he swam his horses. But that was on the 7th. However these uncertainties be regarded, two facts are certain: Pike was across the Neosho on the 8th, and he crossed it between Iola and the town of Neosho Falls, Woodson Co. I think the crossing was a little above the mouth of Deer cr.

[I-56] West for a few miles, then about northwest, up along the Neosho, but at several miles' distance from that river, on the dry prairie, and passing from Woodson into Coffey Co. As to the "second branch" on which is camp: Pike charts three streams passed to-day, running to his right into the Neosho, and marks his camp on the third one of these. I take these to be Turkey, South Big, and North Big creeks; and suppose that Pike camped on the last of these. It is true that these all three unite in one before falling into the Neosho; but Pike passed them too high up to observe their connections. Turkey cr. is practically a separate one, as it falls into Big cr. only about one-quarter of a mile above the mouth of it; and the connection of North and South creeks, much higher up, may be implied in his speaking of the "second branch" on which was camp (Turkey cr. then answering to a first branch). The single mouth of the three streams here in mention falls into the Neosho about 2 m. west of Leroy. If it seems rather a stretch to get Pike some distance up North Big cr. to-day, it may be remembered that the place he crossed the Neosho was not determined with precision; and that we have to find him to-morrow, at 11 miles' distance, on a large creek up which he can go over the divide to the heads of Verdigris r. There seems to be no alternative.

[I-57] The total of 12 m. does not agree with the text, which calls for 11 + 4½ = 15½. Eagle cr. seems to have been struck about on the boundary between Coffey and Lyon cos., where Four Mile cr. falls into it. It is a considerable stream, which heads in the divide about Olpe (a place on the A. T. and S. FÉ R. R.), is increased by Harper, Hoosier, and other tributaries, and runs E. into the Neosho a mile and a half above Strawn (a place on the Mo. Pac. R. R.). To reach Eagle cr. from North Big cr. Pike passed opposite Burlington, seat of Coffey Co., several miles to his right, and headed the small Otter cr., on or near which is a place called Patmos.

[I-58] It may not be possible to decide which of the several branches of Eagle cr. Pike went up to the divide. To send him up the main branch, past Olpe, agrees best with his 21 m. to-day; but in that case he must have breakfasted late. There is a sharp elbow in his dotted trail, which would seem to indicate that he made a turn from his former course over the divide. Aside from any questions of detail, which perhaps could not be decided even by a resident of the region traversed, we have Pike safe on the headwaters of Vermilion or Verdigris r. (it has these alternative names on recent maps). It heads in the divide which Pike has crossed, by numerous small tributaries, several of which Pike charts. Among them are Haldemand and Tate, heading opposite branches of Eagle cr., and further on Moon, Rock, Fawn, and Camp creeks. The Verdigris is of a size smaller than the Neosho, W. of which it runs in an approximately parallel course; it leaves Kansas through Montgomery Co., enters Indian Territory, and in the country of the Creek Indians falls into the Arkansaw 8 m. above the mouth of the Neosho. Pike lays it down well, especially the fan-shaped leash of branches in which it heads, but runs it into the Arkansaw in common with the Neosho. The Verdigris has of course its proper basin or drainage within the more general watershed of the Neosho and other Arkansan as distinguished from Missourian waters. The rim of this basin is the divide Pike crosses over to-day. He camps on one of the small headwaters, probably Fawn or Camp cr., in the close vicinity of the places called Elco and Verdigris.

[I-59] Pike has headed Verdigris r., and recrossed the brim of its basin into the Neosho basin again. In cutting off this small segment of the Verdigris basin he passed from Lyon into Chase Co., "over high hilly prairies," i.e., the divide, and continued westward till he struck "a large branch of Grand r." We discover later that Pike takes Cottonwood r. to be the main Grand, i.e., Neosho r., which I do not see that it is not, though the other one retains the name of Neosho above their confluence. The stream he strikes is the S. fork of Cottonwood r. This heads in the same hilly country, by tributaries known as Little Cedar, Thurman, and Mercer creeks, in relation or opposition to the uttermost sources of Verdigris r., and flows N. to fall into the main Cottonwood 4 m. below Cottonwood Falls, county seat of Chase. Pike probably came on this stream somewhere in the vicinity of Baker or Crocker cr., between places called Matfield Green and Bazar.

Cottonwood "creek" was originally so named at the point where it was struck on the old Santa FÉ caravan road, and because it showed the first trees of that kind to be found in traveling westward on that route. The crossing was at or near present town of Durham, Marion Co. It was some time before the true connection of the Cottonwood with the Neosho was made out. At Council Grove the traders knew they were on a head of the Neosho or Grand r., though they called it Council Grove cr. They kept on W. to "Diamond springs" (on a head of Six Mile or present Diamond cr.), and thence to "Lost spring" on their "Willow" cr. (a head of present Clear cr., which falls into the Cottonwood at Marion); the next stream they struck being this Cottonwood cr., at or near Durham: see a note beyond, where I undertake, perhaps rashly, to recover the old caravan road in terms of modern geography.

[I-60] If Pike bore as much N. of W. as his dotted trail seems to indicate, the mileage would fetch him on Cottonwood r. about the situation of Cedar Grove and Cedar Point, which are within a mile or two of each other and of the boundary between Chase and Marion cos., and about 6 m. down river from Florence, Marion Co. He is evidently in the loop which the Cottonwood makes S. E. from Marion to Florence, and then gradually N. E. to the vicinity of Cottonwood Falls. If the old Kansas Indian trail the map lays down could be recovered or identified, it would serve to locate him still more precisely. He crosses the Cottonwood and camps on its left bank. If we attentively regard the camp-marks of the 12th and 13th, we find them close together, N. of the Cottonwood, S. of a creek flowing E., and W. of a pair of creeks flowing S. These requirements are fulfilled, if we take the one running E. to be Middle creek, which falls in by Elmdale, 10 m. below Cedar Grove; and the other two, those that fall in together at Marion, 12 m. (direct) above Cedar Grove. It is true there are several creeks nearer, on the same side, as Silver, Bruno, and Martin, but these are all smaller than such as Pike usually charts, and, moreover, he could not go his 9 m. to-morrow in any direction without getting beyond them.

[I-61] Camp in the close vicinity of Marion, seat of the county of that name. The Indian trail seems to have run past or through Marion. We can confidently locate Pike within 3 m. of the town on the night of the 13th; and Marion thus furnishes an excellent fixed point whence to trace him on to Smoky Hill r. The two streams which unite at Marion, and run through the place as one, are called Brook Luta and Clear cr.

[I-62] Continuing past Marion, up the Cottonwood, which he has to his left, Pike camps near Durham, Marion Co. This town is on the river, and through it runs the Chic., Kas. and Neb. R. R. The route seems to have sheered off from the river a little to the right, more in line with Brook Luta than with the Cottonwood itself: see next note.

[I-63] Passing north between Cottonwood r. on his left and Brook Luta on his right, Pike makes the divide in the vicinity of Tampa, Marion Co. This is a village on the head of Brook Luta; the railroad last named goes through it, and Pike crosses the line of this railroad between Durham and Tampa. He is flanking the higher hills (1,500 feet or more) in which the main Cottonwood heads, by leaving them to the left or W. This is a somewhat roundabout way from the vicinity of Durham to that of Bridgeport on the Smoky Hill, where Pike strikes this river early on the 17th; but it is evident that he did not go straight between these points, for they are only about 25 m. (direct) apart, and we have to account for 18 + 13 + 6 = 37 m. on the 15th, 16th, and morning of the 17th. These mileages adjust themselves to a nicety by the way I make out. I suppose he crossed the divide between Tampa and Kuhnbrook, Marion Co., thus passing from Arkansan to Missourian waters, as he says. Kuhnbrook is a little place on one of the heads of the large Turkey cr., which runs N. into the Smoky Hill r. opp. Abilene. Rhoades is the next place on this branch of Turkey cr., and in passing to its vicinity Pike crosses from Marion into Dickinson Co. He continues on, bearing to the vicinity of Elmo and Banner. These are places near another head of Turkey cr., and both on the Mo. Pac. R. R.; they are within a mile of each other. Pike keeps on a piece, westerly, and sets camp in the vicinity of Carlton, Dickinson Co. Carlton is between the two forks of Holland cr., next W. of Turkey cr., with which Holland runs parallel to fall into the Smoky Hill r. opp. Abilene. Carleton is 7 m. due E. of Gypsum City, which latter is on a creek of that name Pike next strikes.

[I-64] Pike camps on a branch of Gypsum creek. This is a large stream which heads in close relation with the uttermost sources of Cottonwood r., in the vicinity of Canton, McPherson Co., and flows due N. into the Smoky Hill, between the mouths of Solomon and Saline rivers. It is larger than either Turkey or Holland cr., and much branched. It runs about halfway between Holland cr. and the Smoky Hill, parallel with both; for the latter, having made a bold sweep from the W., curves N. past Lindsburg and Bridgeport to Salina, and thence E. to receive first the Saline, next Gypsum, and then Solomon r. On Gypsum cr. are Chico and Gypsum City, 10 and 12 m. above its mouth; and Pike strikes it a few miles further up or S. of these towns. Pike charts its headwaters elaborately, and sets his camps of the 15th and 16th among the five branches he lays down. Probably one of these should be taken for Holland cr.; the other four are less easily identified. From his position in the vicinity of Carlton Pike passes W. from Dickinson into Saline Co., comes first to Hobbs cr., next upon Gypsum itself and Stag cr., in quick succession; crossing these three he continues W. to another branch of Gypsum cr., namely, that one now meandered by the Mo. Pac. R. R. between Gypsum City and Bridgeport. He camps on the latter, 6 m. E. of the Smoky Hill.

[I-65] "We passed it six miles to a small branch to breakfast" is a dubious phrase which I understand to mean that Pike went 6 m. to a small branch to breakfast, and then crossed the Smoky Hill r. at once—at nine o'clock. This crossing was in the immediate vicinity of Bridgeport, and perhaps at the very place the Council Grove, Smoky Valley and Western branch of the Mo. Pac. R. R. crosses to run into Bridgeport. Two insignificant runs fall into the river from the east within 3 m. below Bridgeport; the first of them is named Pawnee cr. Crossing the river, Pike proceeds up it, but a little W. of N., and bearing somewhat away from it; he passes Dry cr., which lower down runs through the county seat Salina, and camps on Mulberry cr., 2 or 3 m. due W. of that city, and about the same distance below the point where Spring cr. falls into Mulberry. This stream skirts north of the city, receives Dry cr., and falls into Saline r. a mile or two further. Salina is a large place, one of the best known in the State, where four great railroad lines meet—the U. P., Mo. P., A., T. and S. F., and C., R. I. and P. Six or 8 m. due W. of the place where Pike crossed the river are the Smoky hills, or Smoky Hill Buttes, celebrated in story if not in song. The great river named from these conspicuous landmarks is the main southern fork of Kansas r., as the Republican is the northern. Its uttermost sources are in Colorado. Receiving uncounted tributaries in its long course, it runs E. in Kansas through Wallace, Logan, Gove, Trego, Ellis, Russell, and Ellsworth, loops S. into McPherson and out again N. into Saline Co., makes an elbow at Salina and continues E. through Dickinson into Geary Co., where it joins its mate between Junction City and Fort Riley, thus composing the Kansas. Two of its largest branches are the Saline and Solomon.

This finishes the first section of Pike's Kansas route from the Little Osage to Salina. The rest of the way to the Pawnee Republic is northward, crossing in succession Saline r., Salt cr., Solomon r., Buffalo cr., and White Rock cr., striking the Republican r. in Webster Co., Neb., near the S. border of that State. The distance is less than the 97 m. Pike makes of it. His map is extremely faulty; he seems to have gone about N. W., though his actual route was very little W. of N. It also runs Saline and Solomon rivers far apart into the Republican, instead of the Smoky Hill, magnifies Salt cr. out of all proportion, and minimizes both Buffalo and White Rock cr.

As a bit of authentic history which may interest those in Salina who have reason to be proud of the growth of their city during one generation, I will transcribe a passage from my own field notebook, made when I was staging from Leavenworth to Santa Fe, in 1864: "Sunday, May 29th. Left Junction City and came to a place called Salina—three houses and a pig stye."

Fort Riley, as above mentioned, was begun by Major Edmund Augustus Ogden, who had selected the site and was occupied with the work when he died there Aug. 3d, 1855, in the epidemic of cholera then raging. He was born at Catskill, N. Y., Feb. 20th, 1810; removed to Unadilla, N. Y., and from there entered West Point July 1st, 1827; he became second lieutenant of the 1st Inf., July 1st, 1831; first lieutenant, Dec. 17th, 1836; was transferred to the 8th Inf., July 7th, 1838; promoted to be captain, Dec. 1st, 1839; and was breveted major for meritorious conduct. His first duty was at Prairie du Chien; his marriage with Captain Gustavus Loomis' daughter Eliza, at Fort Snelling, is said to have been the first ceremony of the kind between white persons in Minnesota; he served faithfully and with distinction in the Black Hawk, Florida, and Mexican wars, and for many years discharged arduous and responsible duties in the quartermaster department. For several years immediately preceding his death he was stationed at Fort Leavenworth.

[I-66] Saline r., distinctively called Great or Grand Saline, has been already noted. Pike crosses this, and proceeds to "a small dry branch" of the next river, to camp for three days. This river is the one he calls Little Saline, and is now known as Covert or Salt cr., a branch of Solomon r. which falls into the Solomon 4 m. below Minneapolis, Ottawa Co. Pike's map connects it correctly, but magnifies its size; for the stream which he passed on returning from the Pawnee village, and which he lays down as a head of his Little Saline, is a branch of the Great Saline. Pike probably crossed Saline r. in the vicinity of Culver, where the railroad now does, then soon passing from Saline into Ottawa. The small branch of Salt cr. on which he camped was one of several such in the vicinity of Ada.

[I-67] An error is here evident, and I suspect some confusion of the diary of the 21st and 22d. 1. "Distance 11 miles," for the whole 22d, is necessarily wrong, if m. were made in the afternoon, and this, too, after marching from eight to eleven in the forenoon. 2. Aside from the fact that there is no branch of the Republican fork in this vicinity, the map shows that Pike did not reach Solomon r. till the 23d, and the text of that day confirms this. Camps of the 21st and 22d were both in the space traversed between Salt cr. and Solomon r., less than 20 m. at the furthest. 3. The difficulty disappears if for "12 miles," etc., of the above questionable clause, we read "2 miles to the first branch of Solomon river on our route." This would set Pike on one of the small creeks that fall into the right bank of Solomon r. in the vicinity of Glasco, Simpson, and Asherville. A former name of Solomon r. was Nepeholla, used, e. g., by Gunnison, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, p. 17. Capt. J. W. Gunnison came to the mouth of Solomon's fork July 6th, 1853, from Westport, Mo., by the Wakarusa River route, striking the Kansas r. at Fort Riley, crossing there, and continuing through Abilene; he was en route to the great bend of the Arkansaw by the usual Smoky Hill route.

[I-68] Taking Pike northward across Buffalo cr. I suppose this was crossed somewhere in the vicinity of Jamestown, Republic Co. In this position the Republican r. itself is only 5 or 6 m. to his right, and the rest of the journey is simply following up this river obliquely on about a N. W. course, at a somewhat increasing distance from it, until he nears it to approach the village.

[I-69] To White Rock cr., west of White Rock, a town on the creek and on the boundary between Republic and Jewell cos. This stream runs east through these, and falls into the Republican r. opposite Republic City. In getting here, Pike seems by his map to have crossed several small streams running to his left, and into a stream he runs into Solomon r. I suppose these to be some branches of Marsh cr., a sluggish tributary of Buffalo cr. from the N. W.

[I-70] Finishing the journey to the Pawnee Republic village, whence the great river on which it was situated took its name. Its ultimate sources are in Colorado, like those of the Smoky Hill r. Its main course then cuts off the extreme N. W. corner of Kansas, by running through Cheyenne Co.; whereupon the stream enters Nebraska, and skirts the southern border of this until it dips into Kansas across the N. border of Jewell Co., whence it continues E. into Republic Co., turns S. in this to Cloud Co., E. through this to Clay Co., and S. E. through this to Geary Co., where it is joined by the Smoky Hill, as already noted. The whole journey thus made from the Osages to the Pawnees foots up, by Pike's distances, about 350 m. In a letter to the Secretary of War he calls it "375"; but this is simply offhand. He also claims that his Osages led him roundabout 100 m. through their fear of the "Kans." Pike's land mileages seem to me more correct than those excessive ones he assigns to his navigation. I suppose this journey to have been between 300 and 325 m.

I must emphasize here the fact that I have failed in every attempt to locate the precise site of the Pawnee village. One would suppose it well known; I find that it is not, and have yet to discover the ethnographer or geographer who can point it out. Correspondence addressed to persons now living in the vicinity was as fruitless as my exploration of the sources of official knowledge in Washington, where several friends interested themselves in my behalf to no purpose. I know of no closer indication than that afforded by Gregg's map of 1844. This letters "Old Pawnee Village" on the S. bank of the Republican, halfway between long. 98° and 99° W., and thus, as I judge, about opposite the present town of Red Cloud, Webster Co., Neb. Gregg runs the Republican entirely S. of lat. 40° N., i.e., in Kansas; but the place where Pike struck it was certainly in that portion of its course which runs in Nebraska, just over the Kansas line. Gregg in fact gives his river a recognizable northward convexity along here, and if it does not overreach 40°, that is a fault of absolute, not relative, position. We are here much less concerned with latitude than with longitude. The river is running approximately from W. to E., in Webster Co., and the main point is how far W. the village was, as that would affect details of the route from the last point at which I have been able to locate Pike. It will be necessary to discover the exact situation of the Pawnee village before the cloud over the end of this journey can be dispelled, and the beginning of the journey from the village to Great Bend on the Arkansaw can be set in a clear light. For the present I can only tentatively assume longitude 98° 30´ W. (See Scandia, in the Index.)

[I-71] Guillaume Thomas FranÇois Raynal, commonly called AbbÉ Raynal, b. Aveyron, France, Apr. 12th, 1713, d. Paris, Mar. 6th, 1796—a philosophical free-thinker and historian, who wrote too much sense and truth to suit his official superiors, and was consequently unfrocked. It is a curious fact in the history of the most Tammany-like machine for the propagation of painful superstitions ever known in the Western world—excepting perhaps Brigham Young's similarly organized scheme—that whenever one of its members begins to think for himself they make him take off his gown and wear trousers openly. The irony in the case seems to escape the professional nurserymen in that hot-house. The abbÉ wrote various works; his most celebrated one, to which Pike refers, is: Histoire Philosophique et Politique des Établissements et du Commerce des EuropÉens dans les Deux Indes, 1770, repub. 1780-85—a book whose strength and other merits may be inferred from the fact that it had the honor of being burned by Parliamentary order; though its author was simply exiled, the times being already a little out of joint for roasting heretics along with their heresies.

[I-72] Richard Sparks of Pennsylvania had been a captain in the levies of 1791, when he was appointed a captain of infantry, March 7th, 1792; he was arranged to the 3d Sub-legion, Sept. 4th, 1792, to the 3d Infantry, Nov. 1st, 1796, and transferred to the 2d Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; he became major July 29th, 1806, lieutenant-colonel Dec. 9th, 1807, and colonel July 6th, 1812; he was honorably discharged June 15th, 1815, and died July 1st, 1815.

[I-73] 1. As already indicated, "Tetaus" and "Tetans" are Pike's names for Comanches, also variously known as Ietans, Jetans, Hietans, Aiatans, etc., and also by the Sioux name Padoucas, adopted by the French; they called themselves Num, meaning simply "people." Some of their other names are Kaumains, Choumans and Comandes; we now write Comanches or Camanches indifferently, thus adopting a form of the Spanish name, whose meaning is unknown. These Indians are of the Shoshonean family; they number about 150, on the Kiowa, Comanche, and Wichita Reservation in Oklahoma; there were some 2,500 when they were placed in a reservation in 1868; they had been noted, time out of mind, as wide-ranging, lawless, and warlike freebooters. 2. Pike above mentions three of the four principal tribes of the Pawnee confederation, i.e., of the middle group of Caddoan stock, who are: (1) Pawnee proper, Grand Pawnee, or Tcawi; (2) Pawnee Republicans or Republican Pawnees (giving name to the great branch of the Kansas r.); (3) Pawnee Loups, Pawnee Mahas, Pawnee Wolves, or Skidis; (4) Tapage or Pitahauerat: see further, L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. 55-57. (3) Pike's Kans are entirely different Indians, of Siouan stock, Dhegiha group: for these see l. c., pp. 33, 34.

[II-1] On the other hand, Lewis and Clark first heard of Pike's expedition on Sept. 10th, 1806, when they were nearing the Big Nemaha on their way down the Missouri, and met a boat with a trader bound for the Pawnee Loups: see L. and C., p. 1206.

[II-2] Letters to Generals Dearborn and Wilkinson, sent by this express, formed Docs. Nos. 13 and 14 in the App. to Pt. 2. of the orig. ed. They are given beyond.

[II-3] Camp is on one of the tributaries of Rock cr., close to that of Sept. 24th, if not on the same spot.

The route now taken by the expedition is very little W. of S., to strike the Arkansaw r. at the most convenient point. Thus it diverges westerly from the route by which the Pawnee Republic was approached, which was W. of N. The two make a ? whose legs rest on the Smoky Hill fork at the two points where this was crossed in going and returning, with the apex at the village. The main streams crossed between the Republican and Smoky Hill forks are Solomon and Great Saline rivers. Pike is also on the trail of the Spaniards who have just raided United States territory to the Pawnees; he marks their camps, as far as he can find them out, with a o, to distinguish them from his own, marked ×.

The party which leaves the Pawnees, so far as the white men are concerned, only differs from that which left Belle Fontaine by the absence of the deserter, Kennerman: see note², p. 358. The express which Pike dispatched therefore consisted of some of his Indians.

[II-4] This close calculation was doubtless based in part on information Pike already possessed. We have been told that Malgares started on his raid with 100 dragoons and 500 militia, of which 600 men 240 had been detached, leaving 360. The "large branch" on which was camp was probably one of the heads of Livingston cr.

[II-5] "Distance 18 miles" would never bring Pike to any branch of the Solomon. His error here is a puzzling one until it is detected by reference to the map. That sets his camp-mark high up on the same creek, several branches of which he had on his left when he went up E. of it, Sept. 24th. It is Buffalo cr., which Pike erroneously runs into Solomon r., and so seems never to have passed before. See back, note⁶⁸. I suppose he struck Buffalo cr. below Mankato, somewhere in the vicinity of Jewell and very likely between these places. He seems to be holding about S. S. W., and to-morrow strikes Solomon r. But, as already explained, note⁷⁰, p. 410, precision in this matter is impossible, without knowing exactly where the Pawnee village stood, so as to have a fixed initial point of the journey. I understand that there was a certain "Pawnee trail" once well known from this village to Great Bend on the Arkansaw. If this be now determinable, it will represent Pike's route with a closer approximation to accuracy than I have been able to follow it out.

[II-6] To the Solomon r., in the vicinity of Beloit, Mitchell Co. The stream which Pike lays down across his trail of to-day is perhaps Plum cr., which falls in below Beloit.

[II-7] Hiatus in the text, probably from missing or illegible MS.; no course or distance for to-day. But the map shows a march, and sets camp among the heads of a small stream. This is perhaps Salt cr., high up, somewhere in the vicinity of Saltville, Paris, or Victor.

[II-8] Perhaps to vicinity of Lincoln, seat of the county so called. The map has an extra camp-mark, on the head of what Pike calls "Little Saline river."

[II-9] In saying that he crossed the (Grand Saline) river "two or three times," Pike does not mean that he meandered that stream on his march, but that he or some of his party were hunting about for the Spanish trail which he was so eager to follow, and which here became blind. His map marks oo, the two Spanish camps he found. His was on the north bank of Smoky Hill r., whose other name in the text, "La Touche de la Cote Bucanieus," possibly stands for La Fourche de la CÔte du Kansas, i.e., that fork of the Kansas which runs along the dividing ridge or coteau—which is perfectly true of the Smoky Hill fork. Pike struck the Smoky Hill in Russell or Ellsworth Co. Camp of the 13th is about on the border of Russell and Barton cos., in the vicinity of Forest Hill and Dubuque.

[II-10] The approximation of Missourian and Arkansan waters is here very close. The Arkansaw makes its great bend northward into Barton Co., whose county seat is named Great Bend accordingly. The courses of the Smoky Hill and Arkansaw are for many miles approximately parallel, and only some 30 m. apart in air-line distance; the numerous tributaries of each arise all along the ridge which forms the divide between these waters. Pike has crossed the divide, and is now on one of the headwaters of Cow cr., a large affluent of the Arkansaw, which traverses Barton and Rice cos. in a southeasterly course, and falls in at Hutchinson, Reno Co. His camp appears to have been somewhere in the vicinity of Claflin, Barton Co., on the Kas. and Col. R. R. The stream is laid down on his map. It is by far the largest tributary of the Arkansaw between the Little Arkansaw and Walnut creeks. It was the last stream to be crossed on the old Santa FÉ caravan road before the Arkansaw was reached. This road also crossed the several tributaries of Cow cr. in the vicinity of Lyons, Rice Co. One of these, between Lyons and Chase, was called Little Cow cr. We find another, E. of Lyons, marked on modern maps as "Jarvis" cr., and given as Charez or Owl cr. in Beckwith's Report of 1853, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, p. 22. Two of these names refer to Don Antonio JosÉ Chavez, who left Santa FÉ in February, 1843, en route for Independence, Mo., but was brutally murdered and robbed in this vicinity, on or about April 12th, by a party of 15 men who represented themselves to be Texan troops under the command of one John McDaniel. Particulars of this outrage are given by Gregg, Comm. Pra. II. 1844, pp. 166-169.

[II-11] Walnut (Big or Wet Walnut) cr. is that large northern affluent of the Arkansaw which runs E. from Lane through Ness and Rush into Barton Co., and falls into the river 4 m. below Great Bend, county seat of Barton. A branch of this, called Little or Dry Walnut cr., runs E. from Rush into Barton, and falls into Walnut cr. about 4 m. from the mouth of the latter. Great Bend is on the N. bank of the Arkansaw, and thus between that river and Little Walnut cr. The way in which, and the precise point at which, the Expedition struck the Arkansaw could hardly be discovered from the text of the 15th-18th; we are not even told till the 18th that we are on the Arkansaw, as the 15th mostly, and the 16th and 17th entirely, are taken up with the wanderings of the lieutenant and doctor, who got lost. The key to the situation is not found till the 23d, when it is luckily recited that a trip was made from the camp on the Arkansaw "about 20 miles to a large branch [or fork] on the right." This is the well-known Pawnee fork of the Arkansaw, where was old Fort Larned, a noted place, and where is now Larned, seat of Pawnee Co. So the Expedition struck the Arkansaw 20 m. below Larned, in the very suburbs of the present city of Great Bend. This locality about the mouth of Walnut cr. became early noted, not only as the place of northernmost deflection of the Arkansaw, but also as the first objective point on that river, where the old Santa FÉ caravan road struck that river. It also became the site of Fort Zara, or Zarah—to be found on some maps as Fort Sarah—which was built in 1853 on the high ground between Walnut and Cow creeks, about 5 m. N. of the road. On July 12th of that year, Capt. Gunnison reached the great bend by the Smoky Hill route from Fort Riley, having been preceded in arriving there three days by his companion, who came over the regular Santa FÉ route; Lieut.-Col. E. V. Sumner, 1st Dragoons, and other officers, arrived from Mexico the same night; and on the spot was camped Captain and Bvt.-Major Edward Johnson, 6th Infantry, about to build the fort, as that 100 m. further up the Arkansaw (Fort Atkinson) was to be abandoned. Col. John Garland of the 8th Infantry passed by in July of that year. Pike's approach was: Being in camp of the 14th on some head of Cow cr., the Expedition started on the 15th at noon, and marched five hours, about 15 m., on a W. S. W. course, thus crossing the Cheyenne Bottoms above said, and coming to Walnut cr. just above the mouth of the Little Walnut above described. Pike pointed out a wood and told Wilkinson to go there to camp, while he and the doctor would go up Walnut cr. a piece to hunt for the Spanish trail. Either mistaking the wood intended, or finding himself so near the Arkansaw, Wilkinson went on to that river and camped the party on its north bank, a mile or two above where Great Bend now stands. Pike and the doctor went shooting buffalo, and it got pretty late; they returned to where Pike had told Wilkinson to camp, and found nobody there; so they bivouacked on the spot. In the morning they went up Little Walnut cr. to search, but did not go far from those two buffalo they had killed; in fact they got rattled at finding no camp, turned about and went down Little Walnut cr. to its mouth (which is what text of the 16th means by "their junction"—confluence of the two creeks). On the morning of the 17th, being thoroughly alarmed, and imagining that the party must be higher up the Little Walnut, they started up again, but probably went a very little way in the rain; for they were overtaken early on the 18th by two men whom Wilkinson had sent in search of them, and then they were only "about three" miles from the camp on the Arkansaw. It is not likely they were at any moment 10 m. from the spot where they had left the party.

Pike's map shows nothing but the trail of the party, no camp being marked after that of the 12th, on the other side of the Smoky Hill r. The trail makes a sharp elbow at the point where, having come down Cow cr. on the 14th, they turned from that stream on the 15th. Besides Cow cr., three others appear in succession to the W. The first is Walnut cr.; the second is Little Walnut, a branch of the first, run separately into the Arkansaw; while the third is Ash cr., which falls in above camp. Cow cr. is brought in too near the next one. On the south side of the Arkansaw is marked the station of the 19th-27th, with the legend: "Here we struck the Arkansaw from whence L^t. Wilkinson descended the river in skin canoes and Capt. Pike went up by land with his party." This ends map I. of the Arkansaw, etc., and map II. of the same connects at this point, the first stream laid down being Pawnee fork, and the first camp that of the 29th. Camp of the 28th falls between the two maps, and is not shown. The Spanish trail, which Pike lost on Smoky Hill r., was all the while a little to the W. or right of the party, and is recovered on the S. side of the Arkansaw, on the 30th.

Pike elsewhere says of his journey from the Pawnees to the Arkansaw that it was on a general course S. 10° W. 150 m., but might have been made in 120. His deviation from the most direct route was in bearing a little too far W. to cross the Saline and Smoky Hill, and then some needless meandering across the divide to the Arkansaw. But he struck the latter exactly at the right point; for Great Bend is where the old Smoky Hill and Cimarron route from Leavenworth to Santa FÉ reached the Arkansaw. There was of course nothing on the spot in Pike's time—nor was there even in 1864, when I first passed the place, excepting a miserable shack the stage company had built. The nearest settlement at that time was Fort Larned. My journal of May 31st, 1864, refreshes my memory: "At 2 p. m. we brought up at Fort Larned—mean place, built of adobe and logs, with a drunken officer in command; everybody half drunk already; and all were whole drunk by bed-time."

[II-12] Doted or unsound: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 951.

[II-13] Pawnee fork is larger than Walnut cr. It runs through several counties on a general E. course, and falls in at Larned, seat of Pawnee Co. When I was in the country, 30 years ago, the three principal branches were called Heth's, Buckner's, and Shaff's. A branch now rejoices in the name of Guzzler's Gulch. Saw-mill cr. is a long but slight tributary which falls in close to the mouth of the main stream. Pike crosses the mouth of Pawnee fork on the 29th; the Spaniards had crossed it higher up. He lays it down as a short, forked stream. Larned is now a city of some importance, and a rival of Great Bend; it is the natural development of which old Fort Larned was the germ; it is built mainly on the N. or left bank of Pawnee fork, but has lately crossed that stream, and also extended in the adjoining Arkansaw bottom. The locality became noted with the establishment of the Santa FÉ trade in the '20's, and later on was a point of strategic importance in our relations with hostile or unruly Indians. The main road passed here en route for Santa FÉ, in continuation both of the earliest caravan road and of the later Smoky Hill stage route; it offered a good camping place, which traders, troops, and other travelers generally occupied. Another reason for stopping was that the river was not easy to cross when full. Thus, when Emory and Abert were here, July 13th, 1846, one of Kearny's expressmen, A. E. Hughes, was drowned in it (J. T. Hughes, Doniphan's Exp., 1887, p. 21). But it varied much; July 13th, 1853, Gunnison and Beckwith found it 20 feet wide, with a fair current, and a depth of only a foot or two.

[II-14] This is an early but not the first account of the animals, and has been much cited, particularly as authority for the name wishtonwish (which J. Fenimore Cooper misapplied to the whippoorwill in one of his novels). The date of Pike's observation is subsequent to that of Lewis and Clark, but its publication was prior by four years; both these notices are antedated by Gass, 1807: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 111.

[II-15] A letter which Lieutenant Williamson bore to his father from Pike formed Doc. No. 15 of the App. to Pt. 2. of the orig. ed., and is given beyond in its proper place.

[II-16] The five soldiers who descended the Arkansaw with Lieutenant Wilkinson were: Sergeant Ballenger; Privates Boley, Bradley, Huddleston, Wilson. Lieutenant Wilkinson's separate report of his journey hence to the Arkansaw Post formed one of the Documents of the App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed., and will be found beyond, where it is annotated in due course.

Those who proceeded to the horrors of the mountains in midwinter and subsequent capture by the Spaniards were: Captain Pike; Dr. Robinson; Interpreter Vasquez; Sergeant Meek; Corporal Jackson; Privates Brown, Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Smith, Sparks, Stoute—16 all told: compare date of Oct. 7th, p. 419 and note², p. 360.

Pike now starts up the Arkansaw, to which he holds till he reaches the site of Pueblo, Col.

[II-17] Taking the party past Pawnee rock and the mouth of Ash cr., to a point about midway between the latter and the mouth of Pawnee fork. They traveled on the left or N. side of the river, approximately along the track of the A., T. and S. F. R. R., passing Dundee station and the small town of Pawnee Rock; Hubbard cr., on the other side of the river, is also passed, and camp is set a little beyond it, over the border of Barton Co., in Pawnee Co. The town of Pawnee Rock takes its name from the remarkable natural object of the same designation, also sometimes called Painted rock, which was a great landmark in old times. This is the most prominent point of a sandstone ridge of notably reddish color and in part scoriaceous; it is about 20 feet high, and stands off to the right of the road as you go up—about 2 m. from the Arkansaw r., before you come to the crossing of Ash cr. It was a convenient place for the Indians to exercise their pictographic art, and when the road came to be traveled by the whites the rock was soon covered with inscriptions of names, dates, and the like. It is about 9 m. by the road from the town of Pawnee Rock to the crossing of Pawnee fork.

[II-18] Passing Pawnee fork and Larned, Pawnee Co., to camp on the left or N. W. bank of the Arkansaw, about 5 m. beyond. Here is the place where the old Santa FÉ road forked, in the days of the caravans and stages. The main road followed up the Arkansaw; but the right-hand road sheered off from the river to take up what was known as the "dry route"—a sort of cut-off which looked promising and became a regular stage-road, but was no great advantage when you had to go slowly and camp out, as the lesser distance was offset by lack of wood at all times, and of water at most seasons. Having been over this road, I can certify to the remarks of Gunnison and Beckwith, P. R. R. Rep. II., 1855, p. 24: "Five miles from camp [on Pawnee Fork] the road forks ... and one branch follows near by the windings of the Arkansas, to secure grass and water, while the other appears to push off for a 'short cut' and 'dry route' to Fort Atkinson, near which they again unite on the Arkansas river; but this appearance is deceptive; for after going a few miles it turns abruptly southward, and follows but a few miles from, and parallel with, the other road, keeping it generally in sight, as it does also the trees and sand-hills upon the banks of the Arkansas river, and is, except in the rainy season, without good grass and badly watered." The air-line distance of the "dry route," from the point where Pike is now to Dodge City, is about 54 m.; the actual travel is nearer 60. The ground passed over is that sometimes watered by the Coon creeks, and the road coincides to some extent with that now traversed by the A., T. and S. F. R. R. Of late the face of the country has been modified by the Eureka Irrigating Canal, which starts from the Arkansaw at Ingalls, hugs the river more or less closely to the bluffs below Dodge City, and then starts off across country in the direction of Spearville and Kinsley.

[II-19] Pike camps to-night about opposite Garfield, a railroad station and small village on the left or N. W. bank of the river. He started up on that side (having the river to his left), but crossed over on the 30th, and will continue the whole way to Pueblo up the right bank, having the river on his right. The general course of the river being from W. to E., its right bank is on the S., and thus N. of Pike.

[II-20] Kinsley, county seat of Edwards, is something of a town in these parts, situated a mile or two W. of the river on that one of the Coon creeks which runs oftener than the other one does, and which, when it has any water to discharge, falls into the Arkansaw at Garfield, after skirting the river for many miles. The nomenclature of Big and Little Coon creeks is reversed on some maps. I find that I was camped on one of them, 24 m. from Fort Larned, June 1st, 1864, under which date my old journal calls it "a puddlesome slough on the prairie." Thirty years ago it was good buffalo country, and consequently bad Indian country. A note I penciled June 3d, 1864, runs thus: "Our route since leaving Larned has been mostly along the north bank of the Arkansaw. Queer river that—a great ditch, chock full of grassy islets, stretching through the treeless prairie like a spotted snake, some seasons so dry you can't wet your foot in it for miles, and have to dig for a drink, sometimes a raging flood 200 yards wide. Traveling without military escort is risky. The Cheyennes are on the rampage; Comanches and Kiowas too." On the 6th, nearing Fort Lyon, we passed an Indian camp; "it was a band of Arapahoes, at war with the Cheyennes."

[II-21] No mileage for to-day. By Pike's map, camp is at an elbow of the river, which denotes that curve the Arkansaw makes in passing from Ford into Kiowa Co. There is no place to name in this vicinity, and the best maps, on a scale of 2 m. to the inch, do not give any island hereabouts. We will allow Pike 16 m., and set camp in Ford Co., just over the border of Kiowa.

[II-22] To "crease" a horse is to hit him with a bullet somewhere along the nape of the neck, close enough to the cervical vertebrÆ to stun him by the shock to the spinal cord, or to the ligamentum nuchÆ, yet not to inflict permanent injury. When this is nicely done the horse falls as if killed, and is roped before he recovers. But it takes a very good shot, like "driving the nail," "snuffing the candle," "barking the squirrel," and other feats of skill which our backwoodsmen used to practice.

[II-23] Since he left Great Bend, Pike has had hilly country continuously on his left, with only a very narrow river-bottom on that side, in comparison with the breadth of the low-lying land on the W. or N. In fact, it is this series of countless thousands of hills and hillocks which causes the deflection of the river northward, thus making the "great bend." The place where the change occurs, and where Pike camps, is at Ford, a town in the county of that name, on the S. bank of the Arkansaw, or rather on the E. and S. bank of Mulberry cr., a stream from the S. W., which winds around the town on the W. and N., and falls into the Arkansaw a mile or so lower down. A branch of the Chic., Kas., and Neb. R. R. runs through Ford from Bucklin to Dodge City, Ensign, and Montezuma.

[II-24] Taking Pike past the site of old Fort Dodge and of present Dodge City, nearly to the boundary between Ford and Gray cos.—say halfway from Dodge to Cimarron, and thus about opp. Howell station of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Dodge started on the N. bank, but has overgrown the river, and is now built up on both sides, with two bridges across. Dodge is 17 m. by rail above Ford, and almost exactly on the 100th meridian—probably some of the houses are built on each side of this line of longitude. At or near Dodge were the long-noted "Caches," of which most of the early travelers speak, but which seem to have been latterly lost sight of. I cannot locate the exact spot, but it ought to be easily recoverable by those who have the data I happen to lack. The place used to be spoken of as near the meridian just said—though that does not help us at all, as the maps of those days were mostly 30´ out of the way in longitudes. Thus, even Gunnison and Beckwith's route-map of 1853 runs the line E. of the mouth of Mulberry cr. where Ford now stands, and thus about 99° 40´. Gregg's is much closer than this, though it is on a much smaller scale; his 100th line runs midway betwixt the mouth of Mulberry cr. and the "Caches." Wislizenus' route-map, accompanying his report to Congress (Senate Misc. Doc. No. 26, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub. 1848) is closer still; for the "Caches" are marked scarcely W. of 100°. Wislizenus gives us another clew, as he marks "Fort Mann" at the "Caches." The "Caches" were also about the place where the dry cut-off, described in note¹⁸ above, reached the Arkansaw—in short, everything points to the immediate vicinity of Fort Dodge as the place where these caches were located. "The history of the origin of these 'Caches' may be of sufficient interest to merit a brief recital," as Gregg says, Comm. Pra. I. 1844, p. 67, where, and on p. 19, we have the account. In 1812 was fitted out the first expedition which attempted to reach Santa FÉ by following the account of Pike's journey now before us. This consisted of about a dozen men, among them two named Beard and Chambers, who had succeeded in reaching Santa FÉ with the others, and had returned to the United States in 1822 (Chambers had done so by way of the Canadian r.). These two interested some St. Louis capitalists to join an enterprise in the Santa FÉ trade, and then undertook to return to Santa FÉ in the fall of 1822 with a small party and an assortment of merchandise. "Reaching the Arkansas late in the season, they were overtaken by a heavy snowstorm, and driven to take shelter on a large island. A rigorous winter ensued, which forced them to remain pent up in that place for three long months. During this time the greater part of their animals perished; so that, when the spring began to open, they were unable to continue their journey with their goods. In this emergency they made a cache some distance above, on the north side of the river, where they stowed away most of their merchandize. From thence they proceeded to Taos, where they procured mules, and returned to get their hidden property. Few travelers pass this way without visiting these mossy pits, many of which remain partly unfilled to the present day."

[II-25] Alluding to the terrible defeat of General Arthur St. Clair's army by Indians on a branch of the Wabash r., in present Darke Co., Ohio, Nov. 4th, 1791. This was the most disastrous battle ever lost by the whites to the Indians, surpassing Braddock's defeat on the Monongahela in 1755. On Dec. 25th, 1793, General Anthony Wayne, who had become commander-in-chief in 1792, and taken command of the Army of the West, sent a detachment of soldiers to take possession of the field where General St. Clair had been defeated, built a fort there, and named the place Recovery, because it was then first recovered from the Indians, who had retained possession after the disaster above named. June 29th, 1794, General Wayne sent troops with supplies to Fort Recovery from Greenville, where he was then stationed. The detachment reached the fort and deposited its supplies in safety, but was immediately attacked, and the fort itself was invested by Indians, assisted by whites from Canada. The battle raged June 30th and July 1st, when the assailants were repulsed, not without great loss on our side. Among those who fell was the gallant McMahon, who had commanded the expedition to Fort Recovery. For further information see: Howe's Hist. Coll. Ohio, under head of Darke Co.; Burnet's Notes of the N. W. Terr., chap. vii; Albach's Annals of the West, p. 642. Present Fort Recovery is a village in Mercer Co. O., on a branch of the Wabash r., close to the Indiana State line.

[II-26] Camp past Cimarron and Ingalls, but not far W. of the latter—5 m., perhaps. These are two towns on the N. bank, respectively 18 and 26 m. above Dodge City. Ingalls is the seat of Gray Co. The Amer. Sp. word cimarron means something wild, runaway, or unreclaimed, like maroon, and is applicable to an animal, a person, a place, etc. It designated the wild sheep of the Rocky Mountains (Ovis montana), gave name to one of the largest branches of the Arkansaw, and was early associated with a certain route from the Arkansaw to Santa FÉ. The name of J. J. Ingalls was long prominent in Kansas politics and in national statesmanship, and at one time associated with the too-true statement that "purity in politics is an iridescent dream." Notwithstanding the injunction against truth-telling which the consequences of the scholarly senator's remark imply, I wish to speak as accurately as possible regarding the points at which the Cimarron route left the Arkansaw. There were two of these places, both of which Pike passes to-day, where the river was forded, and the road thus crossed from the N. to the S. bank. These became known as the Lower and Upper Crossings of the Arkansaw; they were 8 m. apart; the lower one was 18 m. and the upper one 26 m. above Fort Atkinson; they thus correspond to the positions of Cimarron and Ingalls, respectively. The river is now bridged at each town. The Lower Crossing was the earlier one, most used by the traders from 1834 till the closing of the Mexican ports in 1843; after the war the Upper Crossing seems to have been generally chosen. Thus, we find Gunnison and Beckwith saying in 1853, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, p. 26: "Seventeen miles from the fort [Atkinson] there is a ford, sometimes used by the trains and parties going to and from New Mexico by the Cimmaron [sic] route; but the principal ford for that route is 8 m. above this." Writing of 1846, Dr. Wislizenus speaks of moving "about 20 miles" up the Arkansaw from the Caches, and arriving "at the usual fording place," i.e., the lower one. "This track," says Gregg, Comm. Pra. I. 1844, p. 311, "which has since remained permanent, was made in the year 1834. Owing to continuous rains during the passage of the caravan of that year a plain trail was then cut in the softened turf, on the most direct route across this arid desert, leaving the Arkansas about 20 miles above the 'Caches.' This has ever since been the regular route of the caravans; and thus a recurrence of those distressing sufferings from thirst, so frequently experienced by early travellers in that unhospitable region, has been prevented." The first camp S. of the Arkansaw was usually made in the vicinity of the Sand Hills, at a place called the Battleground after 1843, in which year the defeat of the Mexicans by the Texans under Colonel Snively occurred on that spot; it was some 12-15 m. from the river. The roads from the two fords came together at no great distance from the Arkansaw (perhaps in the vicinity of Ulysses, seat of Grant Co.); having thus headed the Crooked Creek branch of Cimarron, the road crossed Sandy cr. not far above its confluence with the Cimarron, and so reached that river.

[II-27] Past Pierceville, a village and station on the A., T., and S. F. R. R., just over the line between Gray and Finney cos.; camp 3 or 4 m. short of Garden City, seat of the latter county.

[II-28] Past Garden City and Sherlock; camp on or near the boundary between Finney and Kearney cos., in the vicinity of Deerfield, a place on the railroad. Most of the older maps mark hereabout the large island in the Arkansaw called Chouteau's, somewhat W. of the 101st meridian, and apparently near Deerfield.

[II-29] Vicinity of Harland, seat of Kearney Co. In saying that the Spanish road had been "on the outside" of the party, Pike gives us to understand that it had run along to his left, a little further from the river, though since the 30th of Oct. he had been also traveling on the S. side of the Arkansaw, having that river on his right. Nevertheless, the map marks the two trails as identical, the Spanish camps alternating with the American all along. There has been little to note along this stretch of the river, where no stream of any consequence falls in on either side. Pike here remarks a change, in the beginning of hilly country; extensive sand-hills are skirting the river on the S., in Kearney Co., and thence into Hamilton.

[II-30] Vicinity of Syracuse, seat of Hamilton Co.

[II-31] Last day's journey in Kansas, passing from Hamilton Co., over the inter-State line, into Prowers Co., Colorado. Pike's mileages along the whole course from Great Bend are remarkably close. I designedly ran them off day by day, without any checking by known positions, to see when he would strike the inter-State line, about 5 m. beyond which is the first identifiable named stream; expecting then to hark back, much as usual, and make the requisite adjustments of camps by proportionate lengths of each. But I find no occasion for this; his own mileages fix his camp of the 11th as nearly as possible on the line, and we have three identifiable streams in the course of his march on the 12th. To-day's camp is between Coolidge, Hamilton Co., Kas., and Hollys, Prowers Co., Col., 2 m. W. of the former, 4 m. E. of the latter, in lat. 38° 02´ N., long. 102° 02´ W.

[II-32] In Colorado Pike first comes opp. Hollys, a village on the N. bank and station of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Below this are some small runs on the N., among them one called Cheyenne cr.; and Wild Horse cr. falls in on that side a mile above Hollys. He then crosses Two Butte cr., a much larger stream, from the S., arising in Las Animas Co. about the elevations from which it takes name, running through the N. W. corner of Baca and traversing Prowers to fall in a mile above the mouth of Wild Horse cr., opposite the large island there. Continuing, Pike crosses Granada cr., from the S., which falls in where the railroad crosses the Arkansaw and runs into the station named Adana. If he held straight on the best road, keeping to the left of the extensive bottoms along here, he went through the present sites of Granada, a village 4 m. W. of Adana, on Wolf cr., and of Manville, a station 2 m. further along. Camp was set about halfway between Manville and Carlton, a place 4 m. beyond. Several runs or washes make in along here on each side, but seldom carry as much water as the ditches which have been brought from the Arkansaw through and by Granada. Pike charts Two Butte cr., and one that answers either to Granada or Wolf cr.: notice the pair he lays down, S., with the legend "Cotton Wood becomes frequent" lettered across Two Butte cr.

The Wild Horse cr. above mentioned appears on Gregg's map by the name of "Lit. Sand Cr."

[II-33] No mileage to-day; and the omission is not easily supplied. On the 15th Pike camps at the mouth of Purgatory r., and it took him 34 m. by his reckoning to get there from his camp of the 13th. Therefore, camp of the 13th was about 12 m. from that of the 12th, and thus within a mile or two of Lamar. I shall so suppose it to have been. This sets Pike past the "point of red rocks and one large [Big Sandy] creek," which he speaks of as having passed on the 14th, but it agrees with the map, which sets a camp-mark for the 13th past Big Sandy cr. There is evidently a confusion of the record of the 13th and 14th, perhaps in the flurry of the Indian sign; all things considered, I shall set camp of the 13th, hypothetically, 2 m. short of Lamar: and that of the 14th at the station Prowers, 10 m. further; whence it is about 24 m. for the 15th to Purgatory r. The points passed on the 13th and 14th are most conveniently discussed together: see next note. The site of Fort Aubrey (named for or by F. X. Aubrey?), on the N. bank, was probably passed on the 13th.

[II-34] From his camp of the 12th Pike passes the village and station Carlton, opposite which the small Cottonwood cr. falls in from the N., and proceeds to his own "large creek" and "point of rocks." This stream is Big Sandy cr., from the N.; Pike lays it down very well. It is quite a river or river-bed, which when it runs drains from the high country known as the Arkansaw Divide, sc. between Arkansan and Missourian waters, in El Paso, Elbert, and Lincoln cos. The stream further traverses Cheyenne and Kiowa cos., and seeks the Arkansaw in Prowers Co., 2 or 3 m. below the point of rocks Pike notices. This is a place where a bold headland abuts against the river on the south, rising rapidly from 3,575 to more than 3,800—that is, some 300 feet above the general level of the river bottom. A run known as Clay cr. comes around the bluff on the W. The next above is Willow cr., S., on which Lamar stands between irrigating ditches derived from the Arkansaw, and the next above is Dry cr., S., halfway between Lamar and Prowers station. Here is camp of the 14th, just over the border of Prowers, in Bent Co. Pike's map legends "Broken with small Ravines & Creeks" on the country passed over.

[II-35] This statement conflicts with Pike's map, which lays down only one stream between the two camp-marks that stand for the 14th and 15th. But the text is right, and both these camp-marks are misplaced. One belongs just below Mud cr., and the other at Purgatory r., where there is no sign of one, though this is the most exactly locatable station since we left Great Bend. Pike's "two deep creeks" are Mud and Caddoa; his "many points of rocks" appear on any good topographical map. There is a series of such between Prowers and Mud cr., on the S., opposite which Graveyard cr. falls in, N. Two very notable points of rocks, a mile apart, are separated by Caddoa cr.; and Limestone cr. falls in from the N., 2 or 3 m. below these. These bluffs extend to the village of Caddoa, 2 m. up, in a bottom left by their recession from the river, before they again close in on the river in two bold headlands, 1 or 2 m. above Caddoa. The country on the N., across the river, is also bluffy for several miles along here. The elevations close to the river are 3,800 to 3,900 feet, and higher further back on both sides. Above the Caddoan bluffs a creek which Pike charts falls on the S. This is lettered Blue cr. on late G. L. O. maps, and Rule cr. on those of Hayden and Powell. Caddoa cr. heads about the N. W. corner of Baca Co., and takes a northerly course to the Arkansaw; Blue or Rule cr. is the larger one of the two; some of its affluents are near those of Caddoa and upper reaches of Two Butte cr., about Shell Rock caÑon in Baca Co., but its real source is further south in Las Animas Co., where Johnny cr. and others head. Its course is northerly, but with an eastward trend, about parallel with Purgatory r. About an hour before Pike reached this large river he passed opposite the place where Fort Lyon was later built, on the bluff around which the Arkansaw there sweeps closely. In 1864 Lyon was the first inhabited place on the Arkansaw west of Larned, though there had been trading-posts or certain other temporary dwellings at various points, especially at the upper end of the Big Timbers, say 12 m. E. of Fort Lyon. These were a large body of cottonwoods extending thence several miles down the river on its N. side, and formed a noted resort of various Indian tribes. Hence the woods became well known to travelers along the Arkansaw, whose itineraries almost always speak of the "Big Timbers" as they approach the Purgatory on their way to Bent's fort. Pike's text of the 13th is no doubt the earliest indication of these woods.

Gregg's map lays down three large creeks from the S. between his Big Sand cr. and Purgatory r. The first of these is called Mulberry; the other two are nameless. The three appear to correspond to the Mud, Caddoa, and Blue creeks just described.

[II-36] The main chain of the Rocky mts., with Pike's Peak towering to the right: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 328. Pike has before him the Front range of the Rockies, northward, or to the right; and southward, or to the left, the Sangre de Cristo range. The sources of Arkansan waters are between these; while on the other side of the last named range are those of the Rio Grande. The "cheers to the Mexican mountains" were given at an alt. of 3,900 feet.

[II-37] Purgatory r., also called in English Picket-wire, in French RiviÈre Purgatoire, and in Spanish Rio Purgatorio and Rio de Las Animas, is charted by Pike as the "1st Fork," with the legend "Here the Mountains are first seen." This very large branch or fork of the Arkansaw heads in that southward continuation of the Sangre de Cristo range which is known as the Culebra range, about Trinchera, Culebra, and other peaks, where it connects with sources of the Rio Culebra, a tributary of the upper Rio Grande. Its own tributaries are very numerous and extensive. The main river runs N. E. from Las Animas Co., through the S. E. corner of Otero Co., and joins the Arkansaw in Bent Co., between the site of Fort Lyon and that of Las Animas, present county seat of Bent. Pike camped where the railroad now crosses; and his journey since the 12th has been practically along the present railroad line.

[II-38] It is certain that Pike was on Purgatory r. on the 15th, and certain that he did not reach his "Grand Forks" (present site of Pueblo, at junction of Fountain r.) till evening of the 23d. The distance between these points, along the river, is between 90 and 100 m. Pike's ostensible mileages are: for the 16th, 11½; 17th, 23½; 18th and 19th, none; 20th, 18; 21st, 21; 22d, 17; and 23d, 19; total, 110 m. We have, therefore, to reduce these mileages by about one day's journey. Observe, also, that only four camps are marked for the 16th-22d; there should be five, and with that for the 23d, six. Thus the text and map do not agree, and some error is evident, though what it is we have no means of deciding with confidence. I am inclined to think that the difficulty lies at the start from the "1st Fork" (Purgatory r.), when so much of the day was occupied in searching for the Spanish trail, and the "11½" m. assigned may have been little if any actual advance. If we proceed upon this supposition, there will be no trouble in adjusting mileages to bring in the missing camp by the 20th; after which all possible error is removed by the identifiable points. I shall, therefore, set camp of the 16th scarcely above the mouths of Adobe and Horse (formerly Dry) creeks, which fall in close together on the north, 7 and 8 m. above Purgatory r. Neither of these is noticed by Pike, though each is larger than some of the streams he charts. But they were across the river, and Pike had a bad case of Spanish trail on the brain, aggravated by anxiety about Indian sign.

[II-39] The mileage hardly requires any adjustment, from the position I have assigned for the 16th, to set camp of the 17th in the close vicinity of Rocky Ford, a village and station on the railroad, where Pike remains on the 18th and 19th. Rocky Ford is 5 m. above Timpas cr. (which he charts as the first stream from the left above his "1st Fork"). Timpas or Timpa is a large creek which heads in Las Animas Co. and runs N. N. E. into the Arkansaw at the upper point of that very large island above La Junta.

The most notable point passed to-day is the historic site of Bent's old fort, on the N. bank of the Arkansaw, 7 or 8 m. E. of the Timpas. It was a position of great consequence in the days of staging from Fort Leavenworth and other points on the Missouri to Taos, Santa FÉ, and other New Mexican places. Most of the early itineraries, both commercial and military, speak of Bent's fort, and the advantages of this location for a post were more than once urged upon the attention of the War Department. It was on an emigrant road, in the heart of an Indian country overrun with various tribes; was a sort of focus for several widely divergent termini; was in the vicinity of good building material, and had plenty of fuel, grass, and water. Mr. Bent himself destroyed it in 1849, when he abandoned it for sufficient reasons; but some of the chimneys and adobe walls long stood to mark the spot. Thus it was Bent's "old" fort when I passed by, about 30 years ago. Gregg's, Wislizenus', and in fact most maps of the period mark the fort, some of them giving also a certain Fort William alongside it. The structure is described as "quite complete" by Lieut. J. W. Abert, who was here in August, 1846, at which time he met such noted plainsmen as Capt. Walker of California renown, Marcellus St. Vrain, and "Bill" Garey. Col. Price's regiment was here about the same time. The several columns of Gen. S. W. Kearny's Army of the West, which invaded and subjugated New Mexico and California, coming from Fort Leavenworth by the Arkansaw route, concentrated in camp a few miles below the fort, Aug. 1st, 1846. Kit Carson knew the place well, and FrÉmont found him not far away from here in July, 1843. A view of Bent's fort as it appeared in 1846 is given by John T. Hughes, in his admirable Doniphan's Expedition, 8vo, Cincinnati, 1847, p. 35. The old route into Santa FÉ left the Arkansaw close by Bent's fort, went S. W. between Purgatory r. and Timpas cr., struck the latter at a place then as now called Iron Springs, and so on through the Raton mts., not very different from the way the A., T., and S. F. R. R. now takes. A glimpse at the kind of a road this used to be is had from the following extract from my diary: "Tuesday, June 7th, 1864. Bent's old fort. Cold ride in the rain from 3 a. m. to 5 p. m., when we brought up at the fort. Here was our crossing of the Arkansaw. Recent hard rains made the river unfordable; so we had to ferry ourselves over the surging tide in a frail skiff—ticklish business. However, we got safe across, with all our worldly goods—the latter nothing to speak of, and stood shivering while the ramshackled hack that met us on the other side was loaded and hitched up. This storm and the ferriage began a series of mishaps that reached to Fort Stanton in New Mexico, and made the driver swear that 'the grace of God had petered out on the other side of the Arkansaw.' Kept on to Iron Springs; road miry, pace snaily."

The name of Bent's Fort is preserved as that of a place nearly opposite (a little above) the present station Robinson, which latter is exactly on the boundary between Bent and Otero cos. Above this is La Junta, on the S., seat of the county. Several creeks fall in on the S. along here, the largest one of them named Crooked cr.

[II-40] Taking the Expedition just beyond the mouth of the Apishapa, Apishipa, or Apishpa r., to the present station Rockdale. This stream is charted by Pike; a camp-mark is set just above it, assuring us that the difficulty we had is already adjusted. It is a large river, or rather a long-bedded water-course (like many others which start well, but run out in the thirsty soil), heading about the Spanish Peaks, and reaching the Arkansaw at the foot of Apishapa bluffs (4,675 feet), between Rockdale and Catlin. Three miles off, across the Arkansaw, is the station Olney of the Mo. Pac. R. R., which here comes to the river. In old days a point opposite the mouth of the Apishapa was a good camp on the Cherokee trail to the gold-diggings on Cherry cr., with the Huerfano mountains and Spanish Peaks in sight.

[II-41] To a point on the river, in Pueblo Co., between Nepesta and the Huerfano, short of which river Pike's camp-mark is set. Pike charts the Huerfano as his "2nd Fork." We also notice that he marks two Spanish camps, oo, for the day's march, as called for by the text, though they are by no means set down "within three miles of each other." Nepesta is only a hamlet and station, but serves to mark a well-known crossing of the Arkansaw. The A., T., and S. F. R. R. now crosses here, meeting the Mo. Pac. R. R., and the two tracks run together into Pueblo. The Huerfano is a great river, which heads in the Sangre de Cristo range, among the mountains of the Sierra Blanca range, and by various other affluents, as Muddy cr. and others, heading in the very passes of the Sangre range which we shall have to discuss when Pike's forlorn and frostbitten party reaches them. Some other tributaries drain from the W. side of the Wet mts. The union of these in Huerfano Park starts the river out of the mountains by Huerfano pass; in the plains it receives Cucharas r., a tributary of nearly equal size, from further S., and their united stream seeks the Arkansaw on a N. E. course. A place called Jackson is on the river near its mouth; opposite, across the Arkansaw, is Booneville.

The place above mentioned by the name Nepesta reminds me to say that Rio Napeste was a Spanish name of the Arkansaw r. itself, at least in its upper or Colorado reaches. One of Pike's own maps letters "Rio de Napesi," a phrase reappearing as "Rio de Nanesi" on Lewis and Clark's map of 1814; and yet other forms of the name occur. The phrase is obviously Spanish, but the word itself I do not recognize as such—very likely it is derived from the Ute Indian language. Humboldt's map letters "Rio de Napestle."

[II-42] The "front only," a phrase italicized in the original, means that only the vanguard of the army met the insolent Pawnees. This probably consisted of Pike, Robinson, and Vasquez; the rest of the invading forces, being 13 rank and file, main column and rearguard combined, having not yet come up to engage the enemy.

[II-43] The Huerfano (Orphan) r., marked "2nd Fork" on Pike's map, is passed to-day without remark—no doubt Pike was thinking more of Pawnees than of geography. In consequence of the fracas, little progress was made; probably less than 17 m., as we see by the mileage assigned to the 23d. Camp can be set little if any beyond the site of old Fort Reynolds, which stood on the S. bank of the river, about opposite the mouth of Black Squirrel or Chico cr. This falls in from the N., on a course parallel with that of Fountain r.; it arises by several heads in the Arkansaw divide, N. E. of Colorado Springs, opposite heads of Kiowa and Bijou creeks (branches of the South Platte); at its mouth is Chico sta. (Nyburg), on the N. side of the Arkansaw, 12 m. E. of Pueblo. Nearly opposite the mouth of the Huerfano is Booneville; this locality used to be a regular camping-ground on the old Cherokee trail, and here was a ford across the Arkansaw, opposite Charles Audebee's (or Autobee's) house.

[II-44] Pike's Third Fork, charted "3d Fork," is the San Carlos or St. Charles r. His Grand Forks is the confluence of Fountain r. with the Arkansaw, at present city of Pueblo—perhaps the best known place where we have found him since the Expedition started. The Charles arises in the Wet mts., where also heads its main branch, called Greenhorn r., as in fact the Charles itself often used to be. Their streams unite in the prairie 8 m. S. of Pueblo, and fall into the Arkansaw 7 m. E. of that city, or about halfway to Fort Reynolds. It was in this vicinity that the old Cherokee trail forked, the right-hand road taking up toward the gold diggings, while the other kept on to Pueblo. The Greenhorn mt., about which the San Carlos heads, has an ascertained altitude of 12,230 feet. Fountain r. is still called Fontaine r. by those who prefer French to English, and used to be more elaborately styled La RiviÈre de la Fontaine qui Bouille, River of the Boiling Spring—not that the water is hot, but that it bubbles as it wells out of the rocks, as if it were boiling. "This spring," says Marcy, Pra. Trav. 1859, p. 300, "or, rather, springs, as there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, are among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen. The water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is delightful to the taste, and somewhat similar to the Congress water." But before General Marcy's time the springs had become noted. On the 17th of July, 1843, they were visited by FrÉmont, who describes them at length in his Rep., orig. ed. 1845, p. 117; Mr. Charles Preuss, of his party, thought the water resembled that of the Seltzer Springs in the Grand Duchy of Nassau. About nine-tenths of the solid matters in solution is chalk. When I was at Manitou Springs, a few years ago, it was a common sight to see people in the electric cars with bottles of the water, which had already become an extensively advertised commercial article. Fountain r. has also its Spanish name of Rio Almagre or Almagra, meaning red ocher or other reddish earth. It is formed of two main courses which head about Pike's Peak and other elevations of the same outlying (Front) range of the Rockies, called respectively Fountain and Monument cr.; these unite at Colorado Springs. Monument cr., coming southward in the foothills, is composed of various others, called Beaver, Dead Man's, West Monument, Crystal, etc. Fountain cr., which comes eastward from Pike's Peak itself and that vicinity, seeks the plains by the villages of Manitou Springs and Colorado City, and the city of Colorado Springs (seat of El Paso Co.)—for such are the respective designations of these places, now well known to tourists and especially valetudinarians. At Manitou Springs it receives Ruxton cr., through Ingleman caÑon, now traversed by the cogwheel Manitou and Pike's Peak R. R.; item, it receives Glen "Erie" (Eyrie) cr., which runs through the little mountain park called Garden of the Gods—a spot not favorable to agriculture and one whose alleged proprietors maintain their wonted alibi. Visitors who now inspect the natural curiosities hereabouts, including a cave of very respectable dimensions and disagreeable atmosphere, go up a carriage road which follows for some distance what was an old Indian trail between South Park and the plains. Fountain r., thus composed, runs S. along the E. base of the R. mts., receiving small affluents all along on either hand, as Bear, N. Cheyenne, S. Cheyenne, Sand, Jimmy's Camp, and Little Fountain creeks, and falls into the Arkansaw at Pueblo, as already said. It is Pike's "North Fork" of the Arkansaw, and this is the stream nearly parallel with which he proceeds via Turkey cr. toward the "high point of the blue mountain," i.e., Pike's Peak. His breastwork was built on the S. side of the Arkansaw, slightly above the confluence of Fountain r., and thus within present city limits of Pueblo—though the built-up portions of South Pueblo are mostly a mile or so from the confluence. A suburb of South Pueblo is called Bessemer, where stand the great smelters and other evidences of that commercial energy which has caused Pueblo to be sometimes styled "the Pittsburg of the West," though the pure air is not to be compared with the smutty gas one breathes at the old site of Fort Duquesne. A mile from Bessemer is Lake Minnequa, a resort of the Pueblonians for boating, beer, and music. Pueblo has retained for more than half a century a name that was originally not a proper but a common noun. Thus we read in FrÉmont, Rep. 1845, p. 116: "Continuing down the [Fountain] river, we encamped at noon on the 14th [of July, 1843] at its mouth, on the Arkansas river. A short distance above our encampment, on the left bank of the Arkansas, is a pueblo, (as the Mexicans call their civilized Indian villages,) where a number of mountaineers, who had married Spanish women in the vicinity of Taos, had collected together, and occupied themselves in farming, carrying on at the same time a desultory Indian trade. They were principally Americans, and treated us with all the rude hospitality their situation admitted." FrÉmont calls the river "Fontaine-qui-bouit" (not Bouille). I understand that Pueblo was known at one time, during the '40's, as Hardscrabble—a name now given to another place, for which see a note beyond. I am told by Mr. Maguire that "Jimmy's Camp"—now the name of a creek above said—was a traditionally well-known place where one "Jimmy" had a small trading outfit, mainly for the Utes; he was killed by the Plains Indians. Present Jimmy Camp is a hamlet about Corral Bluffs, 9 m. due E. of Colorado Springs.

[II-45] This was a slight structure, occupied only for a few days, and soon disappeared. But it is notable as the first wooden building of an American in present Colorado, and very probably our flag first flew in that State over these logs. There was no trace of it to be found in 1819, according to Long. It was built on the S. side of the Arkansaw, a little above the then confluence of Fountain r., within the present city of Pueblo (South Pueblo). The precise spot has never been recovered, and probably never will be. Changes in the river may have soon washed it away, or left it at some unrecognizable point on the prairie. The Arkansaw here has suffered great changes in details of its course, and is liable to inundation: witness the disastrous flood this year (1894), which almost drowned the city itself. In this connection I may cite part of an interesting letter with which I am favored by Mr. C. H. Small of the Board of Trade of Pueblo, whose knowledge of real estate in that city is probably unsurpassed. It refers to the discovery by excavation of an old fort which cannot by any possibility be Pike's, yet in the course of human nature is liable to become so considered by some, and in due time to enter history as such. Mr. Small says: "A fort was once built on the south side of the Arkansas just north of the Farris Hotel—between this hotel and the Santa FÉ R. R. tracks at Union Avenue. The channel of the river changed in the seventies to a more southerly and straighter course. The occupants of the fort were all massacred by Indians on one occasion. In laying a pipe on Union Avenue two years ago [1892], one or more skeletons were exhumed, doubtless the remains of those massacred. This was at the depth of ten feet below the present level of the street, and directly in front of the Farris Hotel; the logs of the old fort were come upon at the same time. The grade of the street had been raised five feet, about 1885." Mr. Small's letter is dated Feb. 23d, 1894. In further correspondence on this subject I am given to understand that this fort was an adobe structure built by the American Fur Co., on what is now Union Avenue. On Christmas Day, 1854, a drunken spree ended in a free fight, in which all the whites were killed by the Indians but one, who fled to a smaller post on the Arkansaw at the mouth of the St. Charles, 7 or 8 m. off, whence a burying-party came next day. For a long time there was also an adobe tower or lookout on top of the hill, about present intersection of Second and Summit streets; but it has entirely disappeared.

[II-46] Pike starts up the W. bank of Fountain r., but soon bears N. W., directly through the present city, in the direction of Turkey cr. This is a stream which runs (when it runs anywhere) parallel with Fountain r., 10 to 15 m. further W.; it heads about Cheyenne Peak, the foremost though not the highest of the Front range in the vicinity of Pike's Peak. The air-line distance of Pike's Peak from Pueblo is about 50 m.; the distance over any ground by which the summit could be reached would be as far again. In making this side-trip our hero proceeds with the determination expressed in the modern slang phrase, "Pike's Peak or bust!" We must remember that he knew nothing of mountains, so to speak, from personal experience, and had never in his life been higher than some pass in the Alleghanies, perhaps about the elevation of the ground on which he built his breastwork (say 4,700 feet). In the prairie close by Colorado Springs there stands a little knob, up which a man could run in a few minutes, and which has been dubbed in derision, "Mt. Washington," because it is exactly as high as that celebrated peak in the White mts. of New Hampshire—6,288 feet. Though Pike never surmounted his eternal monument, he overcame all those dangers, difficulties, and hardships which did "bust" many a later, less hardy, and less resolute adventurer who "bucked against the Rockies." Tourists and invalids have now the option of ascending to the summit of his peak from Colorado Springs by stage, or from Manitou Springs by the cogwheel railroad, which has been in operation since July, 1891. By the latter mode of conveyance I have ascended the Rigi in Switzerland, as well as Mt. Washington in my native State; but neither of these afforded the sensation I experienced upon the summit of Pike's Peak, looking far down upon the greatest elevation he attained on the present excursion. His 12 m. N. W. to-day sets him on the prairie between Fountain r. and Turkey cr., nearer the latter. The present road from Pueblo to Turkey cr. strikes the usually dry bed of the latter at about 17 miles' distance, follows up the E. bank to the foot of the mountain, crosses there, keeps on past East Turkey cr. through Dead Man's caÑon, crosses the heads of Little Fountain cr., and continues to skirt the E. base of the range, past Cheyenne Peak to Colorado Springs. Up to the caÑon, at least, this is exactly the route Pike took to reach Mt. Cheyenne.

[II-47] In the hilly country along the E. side of Turkey cr., and then on that creek, heading straight for Cheyenne Peak; camp on the creek when he came to water, probably about where West Turkey cr. falls in; altitude perhaps 6,000 feet. The situation is now in the ravine of the creek, with elevations of 6,500 feet on the right, and others 7,000 to 8,000 feet on the left and ahead. The creek receives small tributaries from the left all along, each gulch having its little stream, or bed of one. One of the largest of these is West Turkey cr., running S. E. from altitudes of about 9,500 feet. Further along comes down the parallel stream of East Turkey cr., heading S. from Mt. Rosa from altitudes of about 10,500 feet, and falling in by Dead Man's caÑon. The summit of the Cheyenne mt. is due N. of Pike's present position, at an air-line distance of 10 or 12 m.; Mt. Rosa bears N. by W., somewhat further off. The situation is such that, if Pike should keep straight ahead, through Dead Man's caÑon, he would run across Little Fountain cr., and proceed to climb Cheyenne mt. from the S.; but if he should bear to the left, up some one of the Turkey Creek affluents I have mentioned or alluded to, he would much sooner reach what he would be likely to call "the summit of the chain" (see text of the 27th)—that is, an altitude of about 9,000 feet, with Mt. Rosa bearing N. and the summit of Cheyenne mt. N. N. E., each at an air-line distance of 6 or 8 m. I think this was most probably his route; but do not see that we have the data to establish the fact.

[II-48] Pike's expectation of climbing his peak and getting back to his camp on Turkey cr. in one day may serve to console some who have thought they would like to take a stroll before breakfast to the same peak from the Antlers Hotel in Colorado Springs. Though Pike's actual footsteps in these mountains be not recoverable with exactitude, there is no uncertainty as to about where he was on the 26th and 27th, when he climbed S. of Mts. Cheyenne and Rosa to an altitude of about 9,000 feet, and then returned. Mt. Cheyenne is the foremost of the group of peaks in this part of the Front range; it stands out in such bold relief that uninformed visitors to Colorado Springs often mistake it for Pike's Peak. But its altitude is only 9,407 or 9,948 feet, as estimated by different authorities, and thus considerably less than that of various other peaks in the vicinity. Some of these are: Cameron Cone, 10,685 or 11,560 feet; Mt. Rosa, 11,427 or 11,572 feet; Mt. Pisgah, given as 10,487 feet; Pilate Peak, given as 12,420 feet. The two last named are further W. and S.; Cheyenne, Cameron, and Rosa form angles of a triangle, E. of Pike's Peak, that "grim sentinel of the Rockies," as it is styled by some, or the "Grand Peak," as Pike calls it, which towers over all the rest to the generally accepted altitude of 14,147 feet. These figures can easily be recalled to mind if one remembers that twice seven is 14. This peak is due W. of Colorado Springs, at an air-line distance of 12 m. Visitors are driven to the summit by way of the Cascade carriage road, running up Cascade caÑon from a point in the Ute Pass 11 m. from Colorado Springs. This stage route is a trifle over 17 m. from Cascade, or a total of about 28 m. from the Antlers Hotel, Colorado Springs. During the season when the crop of pink-toed tender-foots is harvested, wagons make the round trip in one day, 9 a. m.-6 p. m., spending an hour at the Halfway House and another at the Peak. This is said to be the highest stage-line in the United States. There is also a road up Bear Creek caÑon to the Seven Lakes, but not to the Peak, and no line of stages is regularly run on it. The Cheyenne Mountain road also goes to these lakes, and has been run through to the mining camp on Cripple cr., which lately made such a noise in Colorado. This is S. W. of the peak, about 18 air-line miles from Colorado Springs. The Pike's Peak Cog Railway takes a much shorter, steeper, and straighter course than the stage road, by way of Ingleman caÑon and Ruxton cr. The cog line starts from Manitou, 6¼ m. from Colorado Springs, and is 8¾ m. long. The round trip is made in about five hours, two hours each way, with one hour between, on the summit. This is ample time; for tourists find Pike's Peak a convenient place to leave as soon as they have paid twenty-five cents for a cup of the worst coffee in the world, and tried in vain to stand up against a wind of 50 or 60 m. an hour. Those who may be more interested in Pike's Peak at a distance are referred to a dainty booklet entitled Legends of the Pike's Peak Region, 8vo, Denver, 1892; it is full of quaint local lore, especially of the traditions of the only mountain Pike climbed part way up. Among all the myths that cling to the Peak, obscuring the facts in the case like the clouds that mantle the mountain, the very basic one—that one on which the mountain rests, so to speak—is the universal tradition that the brave young officer discovered and ascended the Peak which upholds his name. One wishes that such laurels as he earned and well deserved had been plucked from an eminence unknown and unattained before. But Pike's Peak had been long and well known to the Spaniards; it was the Ultima Thule of their possessions; and for that matter, was not Pike at the very time in pursuit of the Spanish troops under Malgares, who had gone along just before him? It is true that Pike, Robinson, Brown, and Miller—the four whose names are thus linked should be upheld together—are the first white men known to have come within "the distance of 15 or 16 miles" of the peak, as it seemed to them, when the "Grand Peak" appeared "as high again as what we ascended and would have taken a whole day's march to arrive at its base." This is the testimony of the hero of the occasion; his evidence is alike incisive and decisive. So far as we are informed by authentic history, Pike's Peak was first surmounted by Dr. Edwin James, Mr. Wilson, and two other men, July 13th and 14th, 1820, during Major S. H. Long's expedition to the Rocky mts., when it was named James' Peak. When, where, and by whom the mountain was first called Pike's Peak is unknown, to me at least; but its earliest appearance in print should be discoverable. The date is probably somewhere in the '40's, or still earlier. The name was certainly in verbal use in the '30's. Mr. Oliver P. Wiggins, now of Denver, who was on the plains in 1838, heard only "Pike's Peak," as a phrase already in common speech. Gregg's map of 1844 legends "Pikes Peak (or James')." Beckwith's Report of 1853, pub. 1855, p. 30, has only "James'." The alternative names ran parallel for some years. G. K. Warren states, Pac. R. R. Rep. XI., 1855, p. 24: "Captain FrÉmont, in his report and map of explorations in 1843 and 1844, calls it Pike's Peak, probably because it was so called by the white people in the country at the time": see also George Frederick Ruxton's Adventures, etc., London, Murray, 1861, but written much earlier. Governor Alva Adams, in the address already cited, p. 13, discusses the point as "one of the historical mysteries," and adds: "The name of Pike's Peak begins to appear in the literature of the prairies and mountains about the middle of the century, but it was not irrevocably christened until the Pike's Peak gold excitement, when the name was fixed to remain as long as men love to listen to stories of valor." Whether it originated spontaneously or was formally introduced, it will probably never die; the alliteration of the words would be enough to keep the phrase in the mouths of the people, let alone its justice and propriety. As for any Spanish claim which may hereafter be established respecting prior discovery or ascent of the peak, the following extract from the Legends already cited is pertinent: "From Pike's Peak to Popocatepetl the land is a palimpsest, dotted with ruins of remotest antiquity, the relics of a people whose records are replete with poetry and strange romance. Their manuscripts enrich the archives of Mexico and Madrid, and yet we learn but little of them. They moulder in the missions of the suspicious Spanish priests, or among the mystic treasures of the Pueblos, and are decaying unread."

[II-49] The trail of this excursus, as dotted on Pike's map, would be enough to show how far he was from reaching the summit of the "Highest Peak" there delineated, in the absence of any other data. Such an affair as this would never have been understated or underdrawn intentionally. Yet the dot-line leaves him further from the peak than I am inclined to think he actually was; but it is obviously incorrect in detail, and thus no offset to the explicit text. The wide looping of the trail merely indicates a "round trip" from Pueblo and return. The only considerable difference in Pike's going and coming was, that in the latter case he "kept straight down the creek to avoid the hills," over which he had before trudged. The map exaggerates the size of Turkey cr., as well as of Fountain r. It is possible that someone thoroughly familiar with the topography of the mountains at the heads of Turkey and Little Fountain creeks may yet work out Pike's trail in exact detail.

[II-50] Up S. bank of the Arkansaw, past places called Goodnight, Rock CaÑon, Vegas, and Meadows; also past Rock and Peck's or Willow Springs creeks, both S., to a point near but short of the mouth of Turkey cr., N.

[III-1] Crossing the river from S. to N. above the mouth of Turkey cr., somewhere about the place now called Swallows, below the mouth of Rush cr., and where the bluffs come down to the Arkansaw. The D. and R. G. R. R. now makes a crossing a little higher up. Passing up the N. bank, opp. Red cr., S., the party continued to Carlisle Springs and camped in that vicinity, just over the border of FrÉmont Co. Red cr. is lettered "Bed" on the G. L. O. map of 1892.

[III-2] The excessive estimate of the height of Pike's Peak, 18,581 instead of 14,147, was in part due to a misapprehension of the elevation of the prairie whence the observation was taken. This was assumed to be 8,000, but is really little, if any, over 5,000. The altitude of Pico de Teyde, the volcanic Peak of Teneriffe, in the Canary isls., is given on good authority as 12,200; and that of Mt. Chimborazo, one of the highest peaks in the Ecuadorean Andes, is placed at 20,498 feet by Whymper, who ascended it in 1880.

[III-3] Passing Beaver cr., N., with places called Beaver Depot and Beaver at and near its mouth; passing opp. Hardscrabble cr., S., with a place called Adobe at its mouth, where one of the two railroads now makes a crossing; continuing up N. bank, past Ute or Brush Hollow cr., N., and Eight Mile cr., N., to camp below Six Mile cr., N., about opposite the mouth of Coal cr., S., where is now the town of Florence.

[III-4] Passing opposite mouth of Oak cr., S., Six Mile cr., N., and Chandler cr., S., then coming to the "bad place of falling rocks," which is where a bluff point comes down to the river—all these places within 2 or 3 m. of camp; and continuing past Oil cr., N., to camp within the present limits of CaÑon City, FrÉmont Co. This is already a considerable village, and is growing. It nestles directly at the foot of the mountains, under the shadow of Noonan's and FrÉmont's Peaks, and derives its name from the remarkable formation which the text presently describes. This is the Grand CaÑon of the Arkansaw, a part of which is well known to tourists as the "Royal Gorge," because it has been exploited so much on the folders of the D. and R. G. R. R. But it is worthy of exploitation, and does not disappoint the expectations raised by the advertisements of the "scenic line of the world." CaÑon City is almost in the very jaws of this vast chasm, through which the Arkansaw has forced its way to issuance on the plains. It was practically impassable, even afoot, until a way was hewn and blasted for the railroad which now traverses its whole length. Both trails which lead west from CaÑon City get around the terrible place; one on the north starts up Sand cr., past Noonan's and FrÉmont's Peaks, and swings around to Parkdale at the head of the caÑon; and the other, on the south, crosses Grape cr., traverses Webster Park, and comes down Copper cr. to Parkdale. Next after Pueblo, the basis of the Pike's Peak trip, as we have seen, CaÑon City is the most notable place on Pike's Arkansaw route. The party stops here awhile to scout about, before starting for South Park; and to this place they return afterward, build a blockhouse, leave two men, and start on their perilous adventures by way of Grape cr. to the Sangre de Cristo range and so to the Rio Grande.

[III-5] One of these is, of course, the main Arkansaw, in the Royal Gorge; the other, on the left, or S., is Grape cr., which runs through the Wet mts. to its confluence with the Arkansaw a mile or so above CaÑon City, under Noonan's Peak. Grape cr. used to be called Pike's fork of the Arkansaw, as by Gregg, 1844; but this name lapsed. Bringing it in for a moment, we find the "forks" of the Arkansaw to be: 1st fork of Pike, Purgatory r.; 2d fork of Pike, Huerfano r.; 3d fork of Pike, St. Charles r.; Grand forks of Pike, confluence of Fountain r. with the Arkansaw; Pike's fork of some books, Grape cr. From his present position at CaÑon City, Pike explores the Royal Gorge and Grape cr. to some little extent, and abandons them both; he scouts about for the Spanish trail, and having found it, as he supposes, starts N., up Oil cr., very likely by the present road from the town to that stream.

[III-6] A mountain trail with no course or distance given is not encouraging to follow. In earlier studies of Pike, I had supposed he reached South Park by way of Currant cr., as he might have done. But no doubt remains in my mind that he took the Oil Creek route. If we regard his map attentively, we see that he went up along a large creek which he fetches into the Arkansaw below the blockhouse he built on his return to CaÑon City, and which is certainly Oil cr. Camp of Dec. 10th is therefore in a "dry ravine" within "one mile" of Oil cr.—perhaps at the first ravine above where Wilson cr. falls in from the left, or on Wilson cr. itself. Oil cr. is a very well known stream, on the banks of which oil works have been established, and at whose mouth is a place called Reno, about 4 m. below CaÑon City. It heads by two main branches and many small tributaries in the mountains S. of Ute Pass, W. of Pike's Peak, and about Saddle and Thirty-nine Mile mt., and runs S. about 50 m. into the Arkansaw. Pike goes up Oil cr. and takes the western one of its two main branches, crosses a divide, and strikes the South Platte r. in South Park.

[III-7] Pike has gone N. from CaÑon City some 30 or 35 m., having Oil cr. on his right, and having crossed certain of its tributaries from the west known as Wilson, South Oil, and High creeks. He is now camped on West Oil cr. (the western one of the two main branches), at or near a place called Truro. This is a sufficiently well known locality, in a nest of mountains whence Oil cr. gathers several affluents from various directions. On another branch of the creek is the place called Alnwick, near where Riggs used to have his ranch, or in the same place. West Oil cr. is also called Ten Mile cr.; another small stream is Martin's or Slate cr. Some of the surrounding points are: Mt. Pisgah, 10,322 or 10,487 feet high; Rhyolite Peak, 10,860; Dome Rock or the Needle, 9,463 feet—these on Pike's right as he faces N., and S. W. to W. of his peak; while on his left are in succession: Iron Knoll or Trachyte Knob (lettered "Trackite" on G. L. O. map, 1892); Saddle mt.; Thirty-nine Mile mt., 11,000 feet; Chalcedony Buttes, 10,400 and 10,200 feet. Now the usual way out of this place is N. by Alnwick or Rigg's ranch, between Dome Rock and Saddle mt., over a divide about 9,200 feet high, known as Two Creek or Twin Creek Pass, which fetches out on S. Platte waters at Florissant, on the W. border of El Paso Co.; but Pike takes a route to the left, up West Oil or Ten Mile cr.

[III-8] Between Arkansan and Missourian waters, in a broad sense; between the Oil Creek branch of the Arkansaw and the South Platte r., in a stricter sense; more exactly still, between West Oil or Ten Mile cr. and one of several small spring runs that make into the S. Platte. Pike makes the pass between Ten Mile mt. (right) and Thirty-nine Mile mt. (left), at an elevation of something over 9,000 feet. The difference between this Oil Creek way into South Park and the way by Currant cr. is that, had he come up the latter, he would have made Currant Creek Pass, 9,550 feet, between Thirty-Nine Mile mt. (right) and Chalcedony Buttes (left); it is simply a matter of "cotoying" (flanking) Thirty-nine Mile mt. E. or W. By the way he came, he strikes the South Platte r., in South Park, Park Co., at the very nearest approach it makes to the point he left on the Arkansaw—that is to say, at the elbow it makes where, after flowing S. E. through South Park, it turns sharp N. E. and enters what is called the Upper or Eleven Mile caÑon. These particulars are assured: for Pike finds that the river "ran northeast." Camp of Dec. 13th is set in the hills 2 m. south of the river, near the head of the caÑon just said.

Pike's route from CaÑon City and back to that place has been a subject of much doubt and discussion, in which some very wild notions have been indulged by those who had any opinion whatever as to where he went on this round trip. It has even been mooted whether he was ever on the South Platte, or even in South Park at all. A cautious and tentative statement is ventured in the 1889 Denver reprint of the London ed. of the Travels, where my friend Mr. Maguire says in his new Preface: "The exact line of march of the party from the time it reached the foot of the Grand CaÑon ["Royal Gorge"] of the Arkansas is not easy to trace. It is likely that it reached the Platte in the South Park, and quite possible that it penetrated to the headwaters of the Gunnison." I do not profess to be able to trail a mosquito over a granite bowlder, but I think we shall be able to discover precisely where Pike went on this trip, where he entered South Park, his course through it, the place where he left it, and how, after ascending the Arkansaw for two days, he descended this river to CaÑon City. Every one of Pike's camps can be fixed within 2 or 3 m., and some of them with absolute precision. He was never on the Gunnison, or any other Pacific waters. One who wishes to satisfy himself on all these points needs only to study Pike's text with Sheet vii. of Hayden's Atlas of Colorado.

[III-9] At or near the place now called Howbert, on the N. bank of the S. Platte. This great river has its uttermost source in that section of the Continental Divide which bounds South Park on the N. W., above the sources of the Arkansaw, and in the southward continuation of the same mountains. The latter, bounding South Park on the W., and known as the Park range, are not the Continental Divide, because the Arkansaw r. here intervenes, and the Divide separates the Arkansan water-shed from that of Gunnison r. Having gathered its numerous tributaries from these mountains, the South Platte sweeps southeastward across South Park, and then turns abruptly northeastward to leave the Park by the Eleven Mile CaÑon already mentioned, finds its way through the Front range south of Denver, and runs in the prairie till it joins the North Platte in Lincoln Co., Nebraska. The Col. Mid. R. R. now runs from Colorado Springs, past Florissant, through Eleven Mile caÑon, and skirts the South Platte across South Park, on its way to the already notable mining camp Leadville, which no doubt has a future as well as a past; the Denv., S. P., and Pac. R. R. traverses South Park from N. to S.; and each of these roads leaves the park on the S. through Trout Creek Pass, where Pike did also when he struck over for the Arkansaw. These points will appear more clearly as we proceed to trail the Expedition through South Park.

[III-10] Further up the N. bank of the S. Platte, to vicinity of the C. M. R. R. station, Sulphur Springs.

[III-11] Which could never be struck on any such course as this. To go hence S. W. would take the Expedition over the Park range to the Arkansaw, thence over the Continental Divide to the headwaters of the Gunnison, and so on.

[III-12] Hartsell's or Hartzell's ranch was located in the crotch of the forks Pike passed, and the town or railroad station by this name is now 2 m. above, on the N. bank of the S. fork, or Little Platte r. The two forks are of approximately equal size; but the N. or right-hand fork is the main one. The other, left-hand one, which Pike goes up a very short distance, and finds it does not suit him, is formed by the confluence of various creeks, among which may be named High, Herring's (Agate cr. of Hayden), Buffalo, and Long Gulch. Camp is set about 2 m. west of Hartsell's, near where High cr. falls into this branch of the S. Platte.

[III-13] Pike has actually got on the old San Juan road, which he follows more or less nearly out of South Park, as does also a branch of the Col. Midl. R. R. He enters those outliers of the Park range called the Trout Creek Pass hills, gets over the range itself by this pass, supposed to be 9,800 feet high, and goes down Trout cr. Some named places near or on his route are Salt Works, Mill Top, Higgins', and McGee's. Camp on Trout cr., in the vicinity of the last named place.

[III-14] Merely shifting camp a little distance down Trout cr. from the gorge to the open country, about the mouth of the creek, through which the Arkansaw here flows. It is a very well known place. The D. and R. G., the Col. Midl., and the D., S. P., and P. R. R. come together here; in the immediate vicinity are places called Charcoal (about where, I suppose, camp was set), Midway, and Schwanders; a little below is Nathrop, where the D., S. P. and P. R. R. starts over the Continental Divide for Gunnison; and a little above is Buena Vista, seat of Chaffee Co., which Pike entered when he made the Trout Creek Pass. The Arkansaw is here flowing about S. S. E. The Continental Divide is directly W., 15 to 20 m.; the mountains that make it are the Sawatch range, some of whose peaks along here are: Mt. Princeton, 14,190 feet, nearest Pike's camp; Mt. Antero, 14,245; Mt. Shavano, 14,230; Mt. Keyes, 13,700. Arnold's cr. falls in a little below Trout cr., on the same side; while from the Sawatch mts. come Chalk and Cottonwood creeks, respectively below and above camp. Pike is going to descend the Arkansaw from this station to CaÑon City; but he first starts his people in that direction, while with two men he makes a little reconnaissance up river, in the narrow valley between the Sawatch and Park ranges.

[III-15] Pike stepped off the ties of the Col. Midl. R. R., if he went up the N. side of the river, and those of the Denver and Rio Grande, if he passed on the other side. His camp was between the station Fisher of the former railroad, and Riverside of the latter, below the mouth of Pine cr., which comes down from Mt. Harvard. To reach this point, he passed Buena Vista and the stations Dornick and Americus; also, the place where one Leonard had his ranch, and there used to be a toll-gate—for an old mail route passed by here. Two streams he passed were Cottonwood cr., on the left, coming down from between Mts. Princeton and Yale, latter 14,187 feet; and next Seven Mile or Sweetwater cr., on the right, down a branch of which came the old California road. He is under the shadow of Mt. Harvard, of the Sawatch range, 14,375 feet high, and Marmot Peak in the Park range.

[III-16] The highest point on the Arkansaw ever reached by the Expedition, and that only by three of its members. This is the nearest Pike ever came to Pacific waters; and it is close enough to have easily started the erroneous tradition. This has been given currency in General A. W. Greely's sketch, and very lately also supported by Governor Alva Adams, in his address, July 12th, 1894, p. 13, where we read: "He wandered west over routes we cannot identify until he must have found the Tomichi, a tributary of the Gunnison, and the only time Pike touched Pacific waters." But let us see about this. Assuming the substantial accuracy of Pike's mileages for the 21st and 22d, or at any rate, that they were not understated, and taking the Trout Creek camp to have been 6 m. below Buena Vista, his uttermost point may be fixed within a mile or two of Twin Lakes station on the D. and R. G. R. R. This place takes name from the two beautiful lakes which lie from 2 to 5 m. westward. This determination would be more particularly acceptable, as the point indicated falls almost exactly on the boundary between Chaffee and Lake cos. I think, very probably, that the "large point of the mountain," on turning which Pike viewed the further course of the Arkansaw, was that sharp spur which projects to the river on the left, 3 m. above Granite station and Cache cr., and at the foot of which falls in the discharge stream from the lakes. Pike could have seen up river a good way from any elevation in this vicinity, though by no means "at least 35 miles." I doubt that the course of any river in these parts is continuously visible for this distance; besides, there is no 35 m. of the Arkansaw above Twin Lakes. The Arkansaw is composed from three branches which unite west of Leadville—the middle, Tennessee fork, heading in the Continental Divide, in and near Tennessee Pass, in relation with heads of Eagle r., a tributary of the Grand; the east fork, heading about FrÉmont Pass with Ten Mile cr., a tributary of Blue r. and so of the Grand; which two, having joined, are joined by the west or Lake fork. There is little to choose between the middle and east forks, as to which is the ultimate "source" of the Arkansaw. Both are now meandered by the D. and R. G. R. R., the east one also by the Denver, Leadville and Gunnison division of the U. P.; while the Col. Midl. goes along the west fork. Below the junction of this fork the Arkansaw receives various small tributaries, chiefly from the Park range on the east, as those from the gulches known as Iowa, Thompson, Empire, Union, Weston, and Granite; the corresponding streams on the other side, from the Sawatch range, mostly fall into the west fork, as Half Moon cr. and others; but one which gathers from Mt. Elbert falls into the main river 2 m. above the discharge of Twin Lakes. The lesser of these two is fed by Lake and other small streams, and discharges into the greater one, which in turn discharges into the Arkansaw. The lakes are about 1½ and 2½ m. in their respective diameters. Between the two is a place called Interlaken, reminding one of the fact that Colorado is often styled the Switzerland of America.

[III-17] We must guess as well as we can where this was. Pike, Miller, and Mountjoy started early from their camp below Pine cr., about Riverside station, and made a forced march well into the night. We may credit them with 25 m., and suppose them to be below Nathrop (which is on Chalk cr.), and somewhere in the vicinity of Brown's cr., which falls in from the left.

[III-18] It is specially desirable to fix this Christmas camp, if not for the sentiment of the thing, then because it is our initial point for the whole journey hence down the Arkansaw to CaÑon City. From anything that has preceded we do not know where it was, within 10 m. But on the 26th Pike notes a "large stream" from the south, at 7½ m. This is the South Arkansaw, which falls in very near the well-known town of Salida. Salida is 7 m. by rail below a station called Brown CaÑon, which latter is a little above Squaw cr. Between Salida and Brown CaÑon the country is open and park-like among the mountains—just the sort of a place where buffalo would herd in the winter. The seasonable supply of eight beeves was got in consequence, and I have no doubt that Christmas was spent in the immediate vicinity of Brown CaÑon. The mountain fastnesses about the headwaters of the Arkansaw long continued to be wintering-grounds for the buffalo. Thus we find one of the most experienced officers of our army making the following remark: "Although generally regarded as migratory in their habits, yet the buffalo often winter in the snows of a high northern latitude. Early in the spring of 1858 I found them in the Rocky mountains, at the head of the Arkansas and South Platte rivers, and there was every indication that this was a permanent abiding place for them," says Marcy, Pra. Trav. 1859, p. 234, half a century after Pike's fortunate find. The herd now preserved in Yellowstone Park has no trouble with the deepest snows and coldest weather of that region.

[III-19] Down the Arkansaw, past Squaw cr., right, and some runs in the park he traversed, also past the stations Bellevue and Salida, to the mouth of the South Arkansaw r., where the so-called Arkansaw hills on the north close in against the Sangre de Cristo range on the south, thus straitening the valley. The S. Arkansaw heads about Mts. Shavano and Keyes; its principal branch is Poncho or Puncho cr. There was a good road up both these streams, which are now meandered by railroads. Had Pike known it, he could have struck up the S. Arkansaw to Poncho cr., and up this by Poncho Pass into Homan's Park. This is west of the great Sangre de Cristo range, and is in fact the upper part of the San Luis valley or basin of the Upper Rio Grande, which Pike only reaches by a roundabout way, after subjecting himself and his men to almost incredible sufferings. But it is easy to be wise after the event.

[III-20] To a point on the Arkansaw about the mouth of Badger cr., from the N.; vicinity of station Wellsville or Badger.

[III-21] Camp in vicinity of that elbow which the river makes, nearly from S. E. to E. N. E., and near where there is a way up a creek from the S. over the S. de C. range by Hayden's Pass. The position is short of Bernard and even of Oak Grove cr.

[III-22] Only to the vicinity of Bernard cr. (past Cotopaxi). Pike's mileages appear excessive for the actual advance made, in comparison with modern schedules; but he has to step over much ground for comparatively little progress. All his distances to Jan. 5th require adjustment, or we should fetch him out a long way below CaÑon City.

[III-23] Camp about the mouth of Texas cr., a considerable stream from the S., which falls in three or four miles below the mouth of Corral or Carroll cr., another large one from the N.; Texas Creek station and a place called Ford in the vicinity.

[III-24] Camp in the vicinity of the station Spikebuck. The river here bears noticeably to the N. E. A little further along there is a sharp turn to the S. E., at Parkdale. This place is at the head of the Grand CaÑon proper, or Royal Gorge, by rail 10 m. above CaÑon City, 22 below Cotopaxi, and 46 below Salida; total, 56 m. from what is practically the same as Pike's camp of Dec. 26th to that of Jan. 5th, when he reaches CaÑon City. These figures may be here compared with his mileages, which are: 12½ + 16 + 5 + 8 + 10¾ + 1 + 6 + 8 + 7 = 74¼. Details aside, the routes are identical; and a discrepancy of 17 or 18 m. is not more than would be expected under the circumstances.

[III-25] For the past three days the party has been struggling with cumulative difficulties that threaten to become insurmountable, and are already strung along miles apart in the mountains. Yet Pike is only at the head of the Royal Gorge—that Grand CaÑon of the Arkansaw which he had before noted from its lower end and regarded as impassable for horses. Parkdale is the place where Currant cr. falls in on the N. or left. This is the large creek which heads in the mountains about South Park, and which we have heard of before, when the Oil Creek route to that park was in question: see back, note⁶, p. 464. Now we see more clearly than before that Pike never went up Currant cr. This has two principal branches, both from the W., one called Cottonwood and the other Tallahassee (Hayden), Tallahassa (Wheeler), or Talahsee (G. L. O., 1892, brought into the Arkansaw as a separate tributary).

[III-26] It should be noted here that not one of the eight straggling parties managed to get through the caÑon itself. Some came over the mountains on the N., and the rest over those on the S. Pike alone essayed the gorge, but only got halfway through. Next morning he escaped by scrambling up a small side caÑon which occurs on the N. side, and came down on the N. of Noonan's Peak. This is the mountain that overhangs CaÑon City, standing guard at the throat of the gorge. Dr. Robinson and his man came that way too. Vasquez and his men brought the horses the other way, across Webster Park, and had an easier time of it. It was three days before all the party got in.

[III-27] Pike's map shows "Yellow Stone River Branch of the Missouri," with his trail looped up to it. This of course is an egregious error, as the Yellowstone is much further off, beyond anything that Pike sighted when he was highest on the Arkansaw, Dec. 22d. Next N. of him there, and on the W. of the Continental Divide, was Grand r., which unites with the Green to form the Colorado of the West. This arises in Middle Park. North of this again, in North Park, are the headwaters of the North Platte; and the southernmost heads of the Yellowstone are still beyond these. The mountains which Pike legends "White Snow" are the Sawatch range, continued southward by the Sangre de Cristo range. All this part of Pike's map is too defective to be of any use in tracing the trip just ended, and I have not had occasion to adduce it in support of the text since we started up Oil cr. The dotted trail loops up the Arkansaw far beyond the point Pike reached, and a number of the camps he made are omitted. The best delineation of Pike's route in South Park and about the headwaters of the Arkansaw is that traced on Josiah Gregg's map of the Indian Territory, etc., in his Commerce of the Prairie, 1844. This loops Pike around the Park, thence almost to the source of the Arkansaw, and back down this river—which is quite right. This case must be more accentuated, because tradition will have it that Pike got over on Pacific waters—not a drop of which he ever saw.

[III-28] Marked "? Block house" on Pike's map. Lewis and Clark's map of 1814 letters "? Block House U. S. Factory in 1806" on the same spot on the "Rio de Nanesi," i.e., the Arkansaw. The building stood on the N. bank of the Arkansaw, doubtless within present limits of CaÑon City. All trace of the structure seems to be gone, and I doubt that the precise spot will ever be recovered. My correspondence with several persons in CaÑon City and vicinity has availed nothing. But the location at CaÑon City is unquestionable.

The terrible trip Pike now ventures to make should not have been attempted in the dead of winter, with his miserable outfit. Pike was brave to excess, as we know; that and the mysterious crux of the orders he had from Wilkinson about the Spanish business must excuse this particular piece of foolhardihood. A more experienced mountaineer, with any concern for his own life, to say nothing of the lives of his men, would not have bucked up against those mountains under such circumstances. If he had had to hunt for the unknown sources of a river which came eastward from there, he would have backed out of the mountains, gone down the Arkansaw a piece, struck south at his convenience till he found his river, and then considered the chances of being able to follow it up to its source. That Red r. of which Pike is supposed to have gone in search was never found, for the simple reason that there is no such river in that part of the world—as probably Pike himself knew. He had a chip on each shoulder for some Spaniard to please knock off; his coat-tails were dragging all over the R. mts. for some Spaniard to please step on; and he would rather have broken some Spanish heads than have discovered the head of any river.

[III-29] This "18" is a misprint for 12. There were but 16 persons all told, of whom 2 are left when Pike, Robinson, and 12 soldiers proceed to tempt fate. The 12 were: Sergeant Meek, Corporal Jackson, Privates Brown, Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Sparks, Stoute.

[III-30] The "South fork" of the Arkansaw, afterward sometimes called Pike's fork, as for example on Gregg's map, 1844, and which he now proceeds to ascend, is Grape cr. This considerable stream arises on the eastern slopes of the Sangre de Cristo range, waters the Wet Mountain valley, receives various tributaries from the western slope of the Wet mts., and traverses a gorge in the latter to fall into the Arkansaw from the S. W., about a mile above CaÑon City. The general course is about N. from its uttermost head in the S. de C. range, in the vicinity of Music Pass. Here its watershed is separated, on the E. side of the range, by a divide, on the other side of which are certain sources of the Huerfano r.; while on the west of the S. de C. range the connection is with "Meadow" (qu. Medano?) cr., a tributary of San Luis cr., in the valley of the latter name, and consequently in the basin of the Rio Grande—that "Red river" which Pike seeks in vain. To-day he strikes Grape cr. at or near present site of Williamsburg, a station on the railroad which once meandered Grape cr. to Silver Cliff, but was washed out and abandoned. This is a good way below the entrance of Pine cr., a branch which falls into Grape cr. from the W. This may seem short for the "13" m. of the text; but if anyone should think so, he has only to start from CaÑon City to change his mind by the time he finds himself on Grape cr. by the present best trail. Besides, we shall soon see that we have to shorten up all of Pike's mileages in this rough country.

[III-31] Past Pine cr., to some point on Grape cr. short of the boundary between FrÉmont and Custer cos., probably in the vicinity of Soda Springs or the station Grape. Pike is flanking a mountain as well as meandering a crooked creek; and, aside from any question of typographical error, we have to adjust his whole set of ostensible mileages by the topography of the country. If we should apply the figures he gives to the flat face of the map, we should run him clear over into New Mexico before he reaches his camp on the Conejos in Colorado.

[III-32] Over the line from FrÉmont into Custer Co., past Grape and Blackburn, to camp about the mouth of Silver cr. This heads about Mt. Tyndall and Mt. Herring, and by another branch N. of these; it runs N. W. and then N. to fall into Grape cr., between Blackburn and Gove. Camp is 6 or 8 m. (air-line) due N. of Round mt. and town of Silver Cliff; but much further by the meanders of the creek or either of the roads through the mountains.

[III-33] "White" and "Snow" are Pike's names for what he regarded as a continuous chain from as far N. as he knew anything about it, to the Sierra Blanca of New Mexico. That is to say, the names cover the whole Sawatch range, along the Continental Divide, and the Sangre de Cristo range; which latter separates the Arkansaw from the Rio Grande basin, and ends on the S. with the bold elevations of the Sierra Blanca, or White mts. of modern geography. In saying that the "great White mountain presented itself," Pike means that he has reached a point in the Wet Mountain valley where he has the Sangre de Cristo range immediately before him, on the W. In this direction are the heads of the Texas cr., already mentioned (p. 475), and of Swift or Dutch cr., draining eastern slopes of the mountains, two of the nearest points of which are Electric Peak and Monte Rito Alto, the latter 12,863 or 12,989 feet high, according to whether Lieut. Wheeler or Dr. Hayden made the most accurate determination.

[III-34] This is the most difficult itinerary of the whole trip, and much depends upon its correct recovery. It is out of the question to take "28 miles" at its face value; the difficulty must be adjusted. Pike's trail shows with substantial accuracy his three camps of the 14th, 15th, and 16th, along Grape cr.; then a long loop S. E. and back S. W. to a point on Grape cr. again, above two creeks coming down from the Sangre range. I think these creeks can be identified; this would fix to-day's camp with sufficient precision. I base my conclusions on Pike's whole set of mileages for this trip, as applied to the topography of the route. Thus we have, going up Grape cr., 13 + 19 + 18 = 50 m.; with 4 more miles on the 17th, making 54 to the point where this creek is left. Further on come (28 - 4 =) 24 + 0 + 0 + 0 + 0 + 8 + 8 + 9 + 0 + 0 + 14 = 63 m., which puts Pike over the Sand Hill Pass on the 27th. Finally, we have 15 + 17 + 24 + 18 = 74 m., in the San Luis valley to the stockade on the Rio Conejos; total, 191 m. The three sections of this route—the Grape Creek course, the Wet Mountain Valley course, the San Luis Valley course—are practically, therefore, in the ratio of 5 : 6 : 7; and such figures must be made to fit the known geography of the route. I make the journey of the 17th as follows: Pike proceeds up Grape cr. a short distance, leaves it, flanks Round mt., and passes by or near the present site of Silver Cliff, seat of Custer Co.; continues S. E. across the valley or prairie to the base of the Wet mts., in the vicinity, not immediate, of Mt. Robinson, Mt. Brinley, and Rosita, where the mines of the latter name were or are; where, not liking the place, as there was no fuel, he turns about S. W. and repasses the valley at a right angle to his other course through it, recrosses Grape cr. a little below the confluence of Rosita cr., and camps under the Sangre de Cristo range, somewhere about Spring cr. or Horse cr. This day was disastrous, as a culmination of misery already endured by the handful of half-naked and more than half-starved adventurers, for whom still more acute suffering was in store. The wonder is not at any error in distances, but that any intelligible itinerary of such a journey has reached us from the splendidly brave young fellow, who so rashly led his companions into a death-trap. But for the buffalo which were wintering in the Wet Mountain valley, not a man would have escaped with his life. Whatever the exact spot, this is the place where poor Sparks and Dougherty were abandoned with frozen feet. What they endured may be imagined from the mute messages Pike afterward received from them—a present of some of the bones which came away from their gangrenous feet after sphacelus had set in.

[III-35] By Pike's map, this should be the next to the last creek before Grape cr. is headed—the first one above Horse cr. If so, the party are in the vicinity of the place now called Blumenau.

[III-36] About to the ultimate forks of Grape cr. The S. end of the Wet Mountain valley is a sort of pocket where the Wet mts. connect with the Sangre range by intermediate elevations (as Promontory Bluffs, etc.). Creeks come into the valley from the E., S., and W., converging to compose Grape cr., the ultimate tributary of which is now known as Cottonwood cr. The border of this pocket, on the S., is the boundary between Custer and Huerfano cos.—an irregular line continuing on the W. along the main ridge of the Sangre range, and on the E. along that ridge of the Wet mts. which divides sources of Hardscrabble cr. and St. Charles and Greenhorn rivers from those of the Huerfano.

[III-37] Taking the party over the low divide mentioned in the last note, from Custer into Huerfano Co., and from the Grape Creek watershed to that of the Huerfano. The exact spot is perhaps not determinable, but it was not far from Bradford, a place on Muddy cr., one of the first two forks of the Huerfano. The map shows that Pike has headed Grape cr. and got into another basin, from which he starts a river running out on the prairie to the Arkansaw. This is by mistake made out to be his "3d Fork," i.e., the St. Charles and Greenhorn; it is really his "2d Fork," i.e., the Huerfano.

[III-38] If we call the roll to-day we find: Vasquez and Smith left at CaÑon City on the 14th; Sparks and Dougherty left at camp of the 22d; Menaugh left at camp of the 26th; present on the 27th, Pike, Robinson, Meek, Jackson, Brown, Carter, Gorden, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Stoute = 11.

[III-39] The Expedition crosses the Sangre de Cristo range to the basin of the Rio Grande, and is about to enter the San Luis valley. The matter of the pass by which they came has been much mooted and left in doubt. Thus we find Maguire saying in the preface to the Denver ed. of Pike, p. xi: "Whether this pass was the Mosca or the Medano (known also as 'Sandhill') or whether it was one still farther to the north as thought by some, cannot be definitely established." Governor Adams in his Address, p. 17, says "Medano or Music Pass." I think it is certain that the Expedition made the Sand Hill Pass, and I hope to be able to settle the question. The three passes to which Maguire refers, and the only ones to be considered for a moment, are the following, in order from N. to S.

1. A pass from Antelope cr., one of the heads of Grape cr., in Custer Co., over to a tributary of San Luis r. in Saguache Co., not traversing any portion of Huerfano Co., or barely touching the extreme N. W. corner of this county—in fact, Custer, Huerfano, and Saguache cos. meet in this pass, and Muddy as well as Antelope cr. heads there. This is the "one still farther to the north" to which Maguire alludes. It is the one marked "Music Pass" on the G. L. O. and U. S. G. S. maps of 1892 (but not the Music Pass of Hayden's map). This seems to me so far N. as to be out of the question, if any reliance is to be placed on either Pike's mileages or his map. Even after the utmost reduction of his distances that can be made with any regard to the topography of the region, we fetch him out of the Grape Creek basin, into that of the Huerfano, and thus well along in Huerfano Co. His map bears this out completely. Observe that on the 24th he has crossed the head of Grape cr., left it a good way behind him, and marked his camp near the head of the other stream—the Huerfano. Notice also that from this camp of the 24th-26th the trail makes a sharp elbow west, and goes through the Sangre range in a gap next below that one in which he makes Grape cr. head. Again, if he had made this northernmost pass he would have come out N. of the Sand Dunes, and had these on his left as he went S. in the San Luis valley; whereas, we find them on his right as he comes down from the mountains to the S. of them. Finally, the mileages of the San Luis Valley route do not fit so well from this pass as from the next one. These facts seem to me to prove that Pike made no pass N. of the sand-hills.

2. The Sand Hill Pass, also rightly Medano and wrongly Modenos Pass, called Music Pass by Hayden, and Williams' Pass by Gunnison and Beckwith, is that which connects Navajo or Greaser cr. (br. of Muddy cr.) with a certain tributary (Medano or Sand cr.) of the San Luis r. This is on the boundary between Huerfano and Saguache cos., about 5 m. (air-line) S. of Music Pass. The Huerfano gathers its waters in the valley called Huerfano Park. The three principal tributaries, from the N. to N. W., are Turkey, Wilson's, and Muddy creeks. The place Bradford, already named as that to the vicinity of which we traced the Expedition, without reference to any question of a pass, is on Muddy cr., and a road goes direct from this place through this pass. That branch of Muddy cr. by some called Navajo cr. drains from this pass, and Greaser cr. also heads in its immediate vicinity. Across the divide, which sinks to an altitude of about 9,800 feet at the pass, Medano or Sand cr. drains S. W. and then S. between the Sand Dunes and the mountains, in the San Luis basin (Saguache Co.). That Pike took this route I have no question. There seems also to have been no doubt in the minds of Captain Gunnison and Lieutenant Beckwith, who quote Pike on their approach to this pass, Aug. 25th, 1853, and add: "The course of Williams' Pass as we entered it [from the sand-hills] is N. 58° E., but it soon bends to the left to N. 27° E. We passed up it only about three-fourths of a mile. Its width is about 250 yards, rising gradually as far as we could see. Its walls of rock rise on either side to a height of some hundreds of feet, and are nearly vertical. Our guides represent it as continuing for 14 miles, both in character and direction as here described; beyond that it is more abrupt, terminating at its summit less favorably for a road than Roubideau's Pass. It is followed by a large Indian trail." (P. R. R. Rep. II., 1855, p. 43.)

3. Mosca or Musca Pass, also called Fly Pass by some, translating the Spanish, and by others Robideau's Pass, 6 or 8 m. in an air-line S. of the Sand Hill Pass, is a lower and better one. It connects the Bear Creek branch of May cr. (the latter a tributary to the Huerfano) with the branch of Mosca cr. on the other side of the divide. There is a place called Sharpsdale on Bear or May cr., whence a road goes W. up to the pass, and others N. to Bradford, E. through Poison caÑon to Gardner on the Huerfano at the mouth of Muddy cr., and also E. down May cr. and along the Huerfano to Point of Rocks and Malachite, and so on to Gardner. On the subject of Mosca Pass Maguire's remarks seem to me judicious, and I transcribe them to express my concurrence in his decision: "In the early days of the settlement of the country the Mosca was well travelled by the Southern Utes on their journeys to the Plains, and their 'hieroglyphics,' of which Pike speaks, were to be seen cut in the bark of the aspen trees; but from the fact that on reaching San Luis valley on January 28th, 1807, the party marched some considerable distance on a course lying between the sand dunes and the mountains, the evidence would seem to warrant the belief that the pass used was north of the Mosca."

There are other passes of this range, as the one called Sangre de Cristo, and the Veta Pass (which latter is now utilized by the D. and R. G. R. R.). But these are altogether too far S., and have never been brought in question. There seems to be no named or used pass from the head of the Huerfano itself. The ultimate heads of this river drain N. from Cerro Blanco and Baldy Peak, with collateral sources thence along the line between Huerfano and Costello cos. to Grayback and Iron mts., etc., besides those from the W. on the line between Huerfano and Saguache cos. in the direction of Mosca Pass.

In view of the above considerations, we will proceed with Pike through Medano or Sand Hill Pass into San Luis valley (or Park). This is a plain between the Sangre de Cristo range on the E. and N. E., and on the W. and N. W. the San Juan and Sawatch ranges. It has a total length of about 110 m. from Poncho Pass on the N. to Taos valley on the S., with a maximum breadth of about 45 m., and an area of upward of 3,000 square miles. The general elevation is between 7,500 and 8,000 feet. The Rio Grande enters this valley at about the middle of its W. side, running E. and then sweeping in a long curve S.

[III-40] The billows of sand which Pike has on his right as he comes down Sand cr. from Sand Hill (Music, Medano) Pass are very remarkable formations, which alone would fix his position in the lack of any other data. West of these Dunes are several streams of the San Luis system, flowing southward to form sinks called the San Luis lakes, though Pike's map runs them into the Rio Grande. His camp is on or near Sand cr., at about the point where this and Mosca cr. join, or perhaps a little further along. Mosca cr. is the one that comes down from Mosca Pass, and if Pike had made this pass he would have fetched out in the valley at about the same spot—at or near Montville.

[III-41] About S., along the W. base of the Sierra Blanca, which is simply the continuation of the Sangre de Cristo range. Some of the summits Pike has on his left are: Grayback Peak, 12,387 feet; Bald, Baldy, or Old Baldy mt., 14,125 feet; and Cerro Blanco itself, 14,431 feet, giving name to the group. Pike goes from the vicinity of Montville past Zapato cr., probably on the present road through the town of the latter name on the creek, and camps in the valley at the place where timber reaches furthest from the mountains. A present road curves S. E. from this point, around to the S. of the range, where was built Fort Garland, probably 12 or 15 m. S. E. of to-night's camp. This was a sort of focal point to which roads converged from various points, and especially was it on the most direct route from any place in the lower part of the San Luis valley through Sangre de Cristo Pass to the Huerfano, and so on. Garland was on Ute cr., a branch of Trinchera cr., which latter falls into the Rio Grande about 3 m. above the Rio Conejos.

[III-42] Pike reaches the Rio Grande on a S. W. course, about the present position of the town of Alamosa, whence railroads now radiate in or converge from four directions. These branches of the Denver and Rio Grande system come from the E. through the Veta Pass, from the N. directly down the San Luis valley, from the N. W. down the Rio Grande, and from the S. up the same river. A few miles S. of Alamosa, Alamosa and La Jara creeks fall in close together, from the W. These are both indicated by a single unlettered trace on Pike's map. Next below Trinchera cr. falls in on the E. This is the one called Rio de la Culebra on Pike's map, which correctly brings it in above the one from the W. (Rio Conejos) on which he established himself. The Rio Culebra is the next one, from the E., below Trinchera and Conejos, and above Rio Costilla. Pike lays down the Costilla by its proper name, omits the Culebra, and calls the Trinchera by the name of the latter. In English, Rio Conejos would be Rabbit r.; Culebra, Snake r.; Costilla, Rib r.; and Trinchera, Cut-bank r. Alamosa should imply that the river so called were shaded with elms, though cottonwood (Populus angustifolia) is the actual growth. La Jara is properly the rock-rose (Cistus creticus), but as a name of this creek it refers to willow-brush.

[III-43] Of which about 13 (misprinted "18") was down the Rio Grande, the rest up the Rio Conejos; Trinchera cr. (the one from the E., which Pike's map letters "Rio de la Culebra") was passed a short distance above the Conejos. The latter is a large stream from the W. which arises in the San Juan range, in the vicinity of Conejos Peak (13,183 feet), leaves the mountains by the foot of Prospect Peak (6,837 feet), is joined in the San Luis hills by San Antonio cr. (its principal branch), and then seeks the Rio Grande by winding about the northern ends of the hills just named. The data already given, with those details which the text presently offers, serve to fix the present station with precision—about 5 m. up the Conejos, on its N. bank, at a point where it was not fordable, and directly S. of which was a high hill. A sufficiently large map, such as Sheet X of the Hayden survey, shows exactly these topographical details, and also marks two ranches in the immediate vicinity: see also Pike's own map. Under these circumstances it seems to me wasted ingenuity to find Pike's blockhouse in some other place; yet its locality has been disputed. Maguire puts the case well: "The exact locality of the site (a notable spot in Western history) is in dispute, owing to the discovery many years ago of the remains of an ancient log structure further W. on the Conejos, which some suppose to have been Pike's fortress; but everything in the narrative, as well as in the Spanish records, indicates the prairie opposite the mineral springs and high hill on the S. bank of the Conejos as the spot where the flag of the United States is first recorded as floating above the soil of Colorado." Gregg's map locates the place approximately, with the legend "? Pike's Stockade Whence taken to Santa FÉ. Feb. 1807".

Concerning the exact location of Pike's post on the Conejos, I am favored with the following letter (cited in substance) from Mr. Maguire, an old resident of the San Luis valley:

"Denver, Colo., April 18th, 1894.

"My Dear Sir:

"... As to the disputed stockade on the Conejos: I am entirely familiar with that country, and had fixed it as having been situated in the prairie on the N. bank of the stream due across from what is known as the Ojo Caliente. Before writing the preface to the Denver reprint of Pike, I had made up my mind to that, although it was contended in the neighborhood that the stockade had been situated some 14 or 15 m. from the mouth of the stream. This supposition was due to the fact that Lafayette Head, the oldest American settler on the Conejos, who came there early in the fifties, was lieutenant-governor of this state, and a man of high standing and much authority, had asserted that the fort had been built much further up the stream than the site I had accepted. In 1890 I saw Mr. Head upon the subject, and he told me that when he first came to the country there still existed on the Conejos the remains of a structure of cottonwood logs laid horizontally, which he had seen, and which was so old that the logs would scarcely bear the weight of one's foot. Upon this evidence, with or without suggestion from some source, he concluded it was Pike's fort, and so gave out; whence the prevalent impression. That Mr. Head saw this structure there is no question. I have no idea what it was, or when or by whom built; but it would be useless to pursue this matter, because Mr. Head is positive that the location was on the south side, and therefore the structure cannot have been Pike's. The Ojo Caliente above mentioned is on the property of Mr. A. W. McIntire, as is also the prairie opposite, on the north bank of the river. Mr. McIntire is a Pike enthusiast, very much interested in the case. When in Denver recently he startled me by stating that we had been in error as to the exact location, as he had become convinced it was about half a mile below the Ojo Caliente. This half-mile bears a remarkable relation to the statement in your letter to me: 'I have it probably within half a mile.' Mr. McIntire says that the depression caused by digging the moat is still visible. The place is on the north bank of the Conejos, opposite some warm or mineral springs flowing out of the hill on the south side; and Mr. McIntire informs me that the spot is a little north of the center of Sect. 7, T. 35, R. 11.

"Very truly yours,
"W. M. Maguire."

Later correspondence on this subject with Mr. Maguire includes a letter and sketches from Gov. McIntire, who is satisfied that he has the exact site. He marks it on a township map which he transmits, as on the middle of the W. line of the N. W. ¼ of the N. E. ¼ of Sect. 7, T. 35, R. 11, just across the Conejos, under a hill from out of which flows a mineral or thermal spring which never freezes, at a point so chosen that the current in the river would not cut the ditch around the work. Gov. McIntire's sketch represents the ditch as 2½—3 feet deep, 68 steps long (including an unbroken place of 13 steps), and of semi-circular figure; the two ends of this figure against the river, in a small deep bend, so that the river and the ditch inclose an oval space 37 steps in the longest diameter. This seems large for such a temporary work as Pike started, but he tells us that it was never finished, and Gov. McIntire is persuaded that the ditch is not a natural formation. I am therefore led to believe that he has found the right spot.

[III-44] That our friend Robinson was, in plain English, a spy, is incontestible. If he had any other object in joining the Expedition, it is certain that he had no other in leaving it than to find out what he could about New Spain for the benefit of his own country. Had it been in actual war times he could have been hanged or shot by the Spaniards without violation of the customs of nations. As it was, Pike felt so apprehensive for Robinson's personal safety that when the two met in New Mexico Pike at first affected not to know Robinson, for fear of putting him in jeopardy, and he denied point-blank to the Spanish authorities that Robinson was one of the party. They had parted on the Conejos with a perfect understanding on such points; indeed, General Whiting calls it "in pursuance of a previous scheme" that Robinson set out alone for Santa FÉ; meanwhile, Pike sat down on the Conejos to wait for the Spaniards to come and catch him. The ostensible object of Robinson's visit to Mexico was fictitious; Pike says himself that the commercial claim Robinson pretended to have was worthless "in his hands." Whiting observes that "it was transferred to Dr. Robinson, who was to make it a pretext for a visit to the place, and a cover for observing its trade and resources, for the benefit of his countrymen. He regarded the excursion as a romantic adventure, and in that mood detached himself from the protection of his friend and commanding officer." (Life of Pike, p. 272.)

The ultima ratio of Pike's presence on the Rio Grande in Spanish territory will probably always remain in question, unless some documentary evidence, not yet forthcoming, should turn up to show whether he came there by accident or design. Perhaps the safest ground to take would be to suppose it the particular accident of a general design. His open and official instructions required him to "approximate" to the Spanish possessions; he was to spy out all the land and see how it lay, politically as well as geographically; hunt up the Comanches; and make a counter-demonstration to Malgares' spirited raid, involving a reconnoissance in force as a military operation. This may all be true of the general design of his expedition, but it may as easily be true that he lost his way in searching for the Red river, and only found his way to the Rio Grande by accident. This seems to be the view of his biographer, General Whiting, who was a very competent critic of Pike's military career, and who wrote in comparatively short historical perspective, though he does not seem to have possessed, or at any rate to have utilized, any private sources of information. Whiting fully acquits Pike of intentional errancy, and gives no hint that he is keeping anything back that would support any other view of the case than that which he presents, without apparent reserve or arriÈre-pensÉe. Some of his expressions may be here cited. Speaking of Pike's seeing a Mexican newspaper with an account of Burr's conspiracy, he remarks, p. 277: "This afforded a clew to the suspicions with which his movements on the Mexican frontier had most naturally been regarded. It was not surprising that he should have been looked upon as forming one of the ramifications of the revolutionary scheme which that distinguished individual had projected.... It was true, that he had been found, with a belligerent aspect, in the Mexican country; but his apology was ready, and, no doubt, acceptable; while he knew that the Mexican authorities had lately violated, in a similar way, the soil of the United States, for which no apology could be rendered.... His misapprehensions of the geography of the country, which led him to establish himself in such a suspicious manner, on a foreign river, were excusable, bewildered as he was among mountains and streams that were likely to confuse all calculations. Still, it was natural for the Mexican authorities to regard his conduct, at first, as the result of a design, rather than a mistake, particularly when taken in connection with Colonel Burr's contemporaneous movements; and their treatment of him must be considered under the circumstances, as having been marked by much consideration." General Wilkinson also alludes to the assertion that had been made, that the expedition which resulted in the orders he had given Pike "was a premeditated coÖperation with Burr." The Mexicans, it seems, were not alone in their suspicions and expressions to that effect.

However the bottom facts of Pike's coming on the Rio Grande may turn out to be, it is certain that after he had been captured and taken to Mexico under the diplomatic disguise of a polite invitation to visit the governor, who had heard of his having lost his way, hastened to send to his rescue, etc., Pike turned spy and informer with great agility and signal success. He kept his temper well in hand, except on one or two occasions; and in several instances showed that art which diplomacy has been defined to be. He bore himself with courage, dignity, and much fertility of resources; while that duplicity and prevarication which he confesses his conscience condoned, if it did not justify, were never indulged from personal considerations, but from his intense patriotism. His love of his country was the crucible in which he assayed his own motives; that was fervid enough to relax the rigidity of morals he professed and practiced on all ordinary occasions, and induce a certain ethical elasticity, so to speak, if not actually to melt all scruples. Patriotism must sometimes shake hands with Jesuitism in this wicked world; and the majesty of the flag, like the glory of God, must be maintained by human means. Abstract questions of the adaptation of means to ends are best left with casuistry. Pike's methods, while he was the distinguished guest of a half-hostile foreign power, may be questioned by some, but his motives by none; and as for his ends, we know that nothing succeeds like success. The results are well summed by his biographer, p. 282, in words which I will cite:

"At the time Captain Pike explored those regions of our wide-spread interior, almost nothing authentic was known of them. More satisfactory information of the headwaters of the Mississippi than was in the possession of the public was highly desirable, and his narratives relating to them were read with interest. But his accounts of the Mexican territories were looked for with much more interest, and when they came out were received with avidity. The jealous policy of Spain had surrounded her provinces with guards and restraints, that rendered them almost inaccessible. Their condition and prospects were veiled from all foreign observation; and at the time Captain Pike obtained, through an unintentional aberration from his prescribed route, access to them, unusual attention was turned upon the Mexican country by the events of Burr's conspiracy. This extraordinary transaction had awakened an intense curiosity respecting a region which was known to abound with gold, and which precious metal was supposed to have been its ultimate object. The trial of Colonel Burr was beginning, or in progress, when Captain Pike returned, and was known to have visited the El Dorado, on which this individual was said to have fixed an eye of cupidity and ambition. Scarcely anything had been heard of Mexico since the conquest of Cortes, excepting vague reports of the unbounded wealth that flowed from its mines into the public and private coffers of Spain. It is not strange, then, that Captain Pike's tour through some of its provinces should have been regarded as a rare and most opportune work. His statements were of course founded on hasty and imperfect observations, it being obvious from his journal, that, from the time he left Santa Fe, until he reached the United States, he was under a surveillance, and could only take notes by stealth. He could neither survey attentively what passed beneath his eye, nor inquire about that which he did not see, without exciting suspicion and provoking a rebuke. Still, with an acute eye, and a retentive memory, he appears to have gathered up many new and interesting facts, that were well received at the time."

[III-45] It is uncertain to what work we are here referred. There may be some old military treatise, well known in Pike's time, to which he thus alludes; but I think it most likely that he means his own Observations on New Spain, which formed a part of the App. to Pt. 3 of the orig. ed. of this work, and which included a considerable account of the military establishment of that country. If so, the "Essai Militaire" in question will be found beyond.

[III-46] My editorial function becomes extremely distasteful, with Pike's reiterated insistence upon affecting to believe himself upon the Red r., and expecting us to believe him. See note⁴⁴, and imagine Dr. Robinson starting off alone to walk from the Red r. into Santa FÉ! I have blinked the business thus far, but I cannot keep my eyes shut to the end of this chapter, as there is worse to come in the miserable straits to which Captain Pike reduces himself through his awkwardness and inexperience in telling lies. He bluffs the thing through, to be sure; but at the present juncture he catches himself in the meshes of his own falsification. For, supposing he had really been on the Red r., as he declared he believed; he had crossed that river, and gone 5 m. up a stream on the other side of it; so he was absolutely in Spanish territory, and this he must have known perfectly well. On the 22d he says, p. 507, that he "began to think it was time we received a visit from the Spaniards or their emissaries," which shows that he was expecting to be caught. When they come, he makes a show of resistance by blustering a little, then hauls down his flag and goes with them peaceably enough—probably not only a willing captive, but one who had all along intended and desired to be taken into the enemy's country for purposes of his own. And back of this sorry scene there looms the sinister shadow of General James Wilkinson, the traitor and conspirator with Aaron Burr—let the curtain fall.

[III-47] Doubtless the more eligible Mosca Pass instead of the Sand Hill Pass: see note³⁹, p. 492. A clause in Pike's next sentence is so singularly constructed as to leave the sense obscure; he simply means to call attention to the fact that Meek and Miller had asked him to order them on that trip.

[III-48] Rio Culebra of present maps—next below Trinchera cr.

[III-49] Escopets or escopettes: the carbine or short rifle used by Spanish-Americans.

[III-50] The roll-call now is:

1. Interpreter Vasquez and Private Smith on the Arkansaw. (2.)

2. Privates Dougherty and Sparks in the mountains, with frozen feet. (2.)

3. Sergeant Meek and Private Miller gone to the relief of the foregoing. (2.)

4. Corporal Jackson and one man (Private Carter) left on the Rio Conejos to await the coming of the foregoing six. (2.)

5. Dr. Robinson gone ahead to Santa FÉ. (1.)

6. Pike therefore sallies forth under escort of the Spanish dragoons with the following: Privates Brown, Gorden, Menaugh, Mountjoy, Roy, Stoute. (7.)

Total 16, present or accounted for.

[IV-1] Chapter IV consists of an article which came first in the App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed., pp. 1-18. This had no number among the various pieces of which that Appendix was made up; but as it came first, and the next piece was No. 2, the lack of numeration was a mere inadvertence, and it is to be taken pro form as No. 1. It was lengthily entitled: "A Dissertation On the Soil, Rivers, Productions, Animal and Vegetable, with General Notes on the Internal Parts of Louisiana, compiled from observations made by Capt. Z. M. Pike, in a late tour from the mouth of the Missouri, to the Head Waters of the Arkansaw and Rio del Norte, in the years 1806 and 1807; including Observations on the Aborigines of the Country." Such notes as I should otherwise have to offer on the substance of this Dissertation are for the most part already made in the foregoing three chapters of the Itinerary. The present chapter may therefore be passed without remark, excepting in so far as concerns some new points that come up for notice.

[IV-2] Read Missouri—"Mississippi" being the slip of a pen which had so often written the latter word. The clause means that muddy backwater from the Missouri ran some way into the Gasconade.

[IV-3] The river which the Expedition crossed was of course the Neosho, which Wilkinson was correct in stating to fall into the Arkansaw a short distance below the Vermilion or Verdigris—"a quarter of a mile," his Report says. Pike's wrong conclusion is not here animadverted upon, as it has been set right before; but I wish to note that the "White river of the Mississippi" has given rise to much confusion, from the very simple circumstance that it is a branch both of the Mississippi and of the Arkansaw. It runs into the very crotch between these two, and has a sort of a delta of its own, as well as a double debouchment. Various maps consulted on this point, as I have never been on the spot, differ in that some run White r. into the Arkansaw, some into the Mississippi, and some into both these rivers. The latter seems to be the present arrangement; but this may have repeatedly altered in former times.

[IV-4] The route from the Missouri, at or near the mouth of the Kansas—that is, from old Westport (now Kansas City), Mo., and Independence, Mo.—to the great bend of the Arkansaw, near the mouth of Walnut cr., was established as an overland highway during the '20's, when it began to be regularly taken by the traders' caravans en route to Santa FÉ. The trade attained such proportions that some years merchandise of the value of $250,000 and $450,000 was hauled over this road: see Gregg's statistics for 1822-43, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. 160. Pack-animals or wagons were used, 1822-25, but after that wagons only; and these soon wore a road as plain as a turnpike. It will be interesting to go over this road, and identify the camping-grounds of those hardy pioneers by the modern names of the places on and near their route; especially as no railroad now follows this primitive trace exactly. It held a pretty straight westward course, bearing all the while southward; the distance from the usual starting place (Independence, Mo.) was called 300 m. roundly, but is somewhat less than this. The most noted point on the route was Council Grove, so called since 1825, when the U. S. Commissioners Reeves, Sibley, and Mathers, who there treated with the Osages, gave the place its present name. In the most general terms, the road followed the divide between Kansan waters on the N., or right hand going W., and on the other, first those of the Osage (a branch of the Missouri), then those of the Neosho (a branch of the Arkansaw), and finally those of the Arkansaw itself. But the route was nearly everywhere in the latter water-shed; after the first few miles, every stream crossed ran to the left. In some places, the divide between the two sets of streams had little breadth; one place was called The Narrows, the approximation was so close. The wagon-train that started from Independence usually left "the States" the first day out, and entered "the Indian territory"—that is, it went from the present State of Missouri into the present State of Kansas; and all the rest of the way to Great Bend was through the latter. Let us look up some maps and itineraries of half a century ago—say Gregg's, pub. 1844; Wislizenus', of 1846; and Beckwith's, 1853—to see what sign-posts they set up. These point to such places as the following, in regular order from E. to W.: Independence and Westport, Mo.—Big Blue camp—Round Grove, Lone Elm, The Glen—Bull cr., Black Jack cr. and pt., Willow springs, and The Narrows—two Rock creeks in succession—One Hundred and Ten Mile cr.—Bridge cr.—Dwissler's or Switzler's cr.—five creeks to which the names First Dragoon, Second Dragoon, Soldier, Prairie Chicken, Elm, and One Hundred and Forty-two Mile attach in some itineraries and are to be collated with Fish and Pool, or Fish and Pleasant Valley, of others—Bluff cr.—Big Rock cr.—Big John spring and cr.—Council Grove, on its own cr.—another Elm cr.—Diamond spring and cr.—Lost spring and Lost or Willow cr.—Cottonwood cr.—two or three Turkey creeks in succession—Little Arkansaw r.—several Little Cow creeks, among them one called Chavez or Charez and Owl—Big Cow cr.—approach to the Arkansaw r. at Camp Osage—up the Arkansaw to Walnut cr. and thus to Great Bend. From such indicia as these it may not be difficult to reopen the road in terms of modern geography. 1. Independence maintains its independence as the seat of Jackson Co., Mo., 2 or 3 m. S. of the Missouri r., and about the same E. of Big Blue cr.; but Westport is practically absorbed in the suburbs of Kansas City, Mo. Starting from Independence, the first halt on the prairie, after crossing Big Blue r., was likely to be "Big Blue camp." This was about the heads of Brush cr., a small tributary of the Big Blue from the W., and in the vicinity of present Glenn. Being nearly on the present inter-State boundary, it was the "jumping-off place" from "the States," where the traveler entered "the Indian territory." The military road between Forts Towson (on Red r.) and Leavenworth passed by. A little to the N. W. was the Shawnee agency and mission, on a branch of Turkey cr., the first tributary of the Kansas from the S.; Shawnee is there now, and other places on Turkey cr. are called Merriam, South Park, and Rosedale; the Kansas City, Fort Scott, and Gulf R. R. meanders Turkey cr. into Kansas City. The position is about lat. 38° 59´ N. and long. 94° 35´ W. 2. About 5 m. further S. W. the road passed by Lenexa, Johnson Co., and a camp could be made on a head of Indian cr., which is a small stream joined by Tomahawk cr. before it reaches the Big Blue. The road continued S. W., approximately by the present S. Kan. R. R., and thus past Olathe, now seat of Johnson Co., where six tracks diverge in various directions. This is in the center of the county, near the head of Indian cr., on the head of Mill cr., a tributary of the Kansas, and near the head of a branch of Cedar cr., another Kansan affluent. 3. "Round Grove," "Lone Elm," or "The Glen" was a camping-place on one of the heads of Cedar cr., between Olathe and the village of Gardner; it was reckoned 15 m. from Big Blue camp, and 22 m. from Westport. Thus far the Santa FÉ route coincided with the even more celebrated "Oregon trail." But at a point beyond Gardner, in the direction of Edgerton, and 6 or 8 m. from Round Grove, the road forked—that is, the Oregon trail struck off to the right in the N. W. direction of the Kansas, while the Santa FÉ trail kept on the left-hand fork westward. 4. Bull cr. is still so called, or specified as Big Bull cr. to distinguish it from Little Bull cr. which, with other tributaries, such as Rock, Ten Mile, and Wea, it receives before it falls into Marais des Cygnes (main Osage) r. This is the creek on which is Paola, seat of Miami Co., near the junction of Wea cr., and it was the first of the Osage waters which the road crossed. The crossing was high up on its main course, between Gardner and Edgerton, whence the road continued W. from Johnson into Douglas Co. 5. From the crossing of Bull cr. it is 9 m. to Black Jack cr. and pt., so called from the kind of oak (Quercus nigra) which grows there. Black Jack is still the name of a place between the heads of Captain cr. (tributary of the Kansas) and Rock cr. (a branch of Bull cr.); it is 3 m. due E. of Baldwin City. 6. "Willow springs" was a noted camping place W. of Baldwin City, on one of the heads of Ottawa cr., which flows southward into the Marais des Cygnes r., a little below Ottawa, county seat of Franklin. The distance of Willow springs from the crossing of Black Jack cr. is 10½ m. Willow springs seems to be the same place that was called Wakarusa pt., or was at any rate very near it. Here the approximation of Kansan and Osage waters is very close, and this is the place which consequently became known as "The Narrows." The interlocking is between several heads of the Ottawa cr. just said and some tributaries of Cole cr., a branch of the Wakarusa. Camp could also be made at a place called Hickory pt., short of Willow springs by 3 or 4 m. 7. Two "Rock" creeks were passed at distances given as 9 and 12 m. from Willow springs by some writers, and quite differently by others; some also mention but one "Rock" cr. Eight Mile cr. was headed if not crossed by the road; and beyond this the road crossed one or both heads of Appanoose cr. These creeks are tributaries of the Marais des Cygnes, falling in a mile apart at Ottawa and just beyond. Part of the uncertainty about these "Rock" creeks arose from the fact that they often ran dry, were woodless, and thus ineligible for camping-grounds; hence they would often be passed without remark. The names seem to me to apply rather to the two forks of the Appanoose than to the main fork of the latter and to Eight Mile cr. 8. One Hundred and Ten Mile cr., which still floats its long name, was so called because it was taken to be 110 m. from Fort Osage, our earliest establishment of the kind on the Missouri. This was built in Sept., 1808, at Fort Point (present Sibley: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 30), and was sometimes called Fort Clark. The creek in mention was crossed at a point taken to be 24 m. from Willow springs, and thus in the vicinity of present Scranton, Osage Co. It is a branch of the Dragoon cr. we have next to consider. 9. Continuing nearly due W., the road crossed several heads of present Dragoon cr., in the vicinity of Burlingame, Osage Co. This is a comparatively large creek, which runs southeastward to fall into the Marais des Cygnes near Quenemo. That one of the several heads of Dragoon cr. on which Burlingame is situated is now called Switzler's cr.; the next beyond is the main source of Dragoon cr., into which a branch called Soldier's cr. falls, about 2 m. W. of Burlingame. But none of the older itineraries I have consulted speak of either "Dragoon" or "Soldier's" cr.; instead of which, they give a certain Bridge cr., as crossed 8 m. W. of One Hundred and Ten Mile cr. This is precisely the distance given by Beckwith for his "Dwissler's" cr. No doubt "Switzler" and "Dwissler" are the same person's names; but whether this has always been applied to the same creek may well be doubted. The "First Dragoon" cr. is now Dragoon cr.; the "Second Dragoon" cr. is now Soldier's cr.; these were passed near their confluence. 10. In the next few miles the road crossed in rapid succession several heads of the Marais des Cygnes itself, thus finishing with the Osage water-shed. Three of these are now known as Onion, Chicken or Prairie Chicken, and Elm; the latter is the main head, and seems to be the one which appears as "Fish" cr. in the early narratives—the name by which it is mapped both by Gregg and by Wislizenus. A fourth head of the Marais des Cygnes which the road crossed is that now known as One Hundred and Forty-two Mile cr., which joins the main stream much lower down than the other three. This is mapped by Gregg as Pool cr. and by Wislizenus as Pleasant Valley cr. All four of these streams are crossed in Lyon Co., the boundary between this and Osage Co. having been passed at long. 95° 50´ 57´´ W. nearly. 11. The road continued across Big Rock cr., having first passed its branch, Bluff cr. This is a tributary of the Neosho. It is probable that the Bluff cr. of early writers refers to the main Big Rock rather than to the branch now called Bluff, as it is the last one they give before coming to—12. Big John cr., another tributary of the Neosho, which was crossed immediately before Council Grove was reached; on which account, as well as for its beautiful spring and eligible camping-ground, it early became noted under the name it still bears. 13. Council Grove, now the seat of Morris Co. This was always the most marked place on the route—a sort of halfway station between the Missouri settlements and the great bend of the Arkansaw. Its area was indefinitely extensive along the wooded bottom-land of the Neosho, or, as it was called here, Council Grove cr.; but as the situation became peopled, settlement was made chiefly on the W. or right bank of the stream, at the mouth of Elm cr., a tributary from the W. This is not far from the center of a tract about 45 m. square known as the Kansas Trust Lands, of which the Kansas Diminished Reserve is a southwestern portion. Council Grove is only some 8 m. from the boundary between Lyon and Morris Co., which runs on a meridian close by the course of Big Rock cr. 14. The road continued W. up the left or N. bank of Elm cr. for about 8 m., crossed it at or near present station Milton of the Topeka, Salina, and Western R. R., and went on S. W. to Diamond spring, about 8 m. further. This was a camping place high up on the waters of Diamond or, as it is also called, Six Mile cr., a branch of the Cottonwood. 15. Hence W. about 16 m. to Lost spring, on Lost or Clear cr.—that branch of the Cottonwood which falls in at Marion. This place is a little over the border of Marion Co., and a town or station Lost Spring perpetuates the name, at the point where the Chicago, Kansas, and Nebraska R. R. crosses a branch of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. 16. From Lost spring the route turned S. W. 17 m. to the Cottonwood, approximately by the present railroad line, and struck that river at or near Durham, Marion Co. 17. Continuing S. W. and then bearing more nearly W., the road passed by or near Canton and thence to McPherson, both in the county of the latter name. Both are situated among the heads of Turkey cr., a branch of the Little Arkansaw; two or three of these were crossed. When two were noted, it used to be by the names of Little and Big Turkey creeks; map names are now Running Turkey, Turkey, and West Turkey; McPherson is on the last of these, some 25 m. from the crossing of the Cottonwood. The Turkey creeks vary very much in character with season and the weather. 18. The road continued about 20 m. to the crossing of the Little Arkansaw, in the vicinity of the place now called Little River. 19. In 10 m. the road reached one of the tributaries of Cow cr., and it was 10 more before all of these were passed; there are five or six of them, and some hardly ever run water. One of them is now called "Jarvis" cr.: see note¹⁰, p. 424. Another is known as Long Branch; between this and Little Cow cr. is Lyons, seat of Rice Co., and beyond this Big Cow cr. is crossed. 20. The road now makes for the Arkansaw on a due W. course, and comes on to that river at a place which was known as Camp Osage, in the vicinity of present Ellinwood, Barton Co. This town is only 3 m. from the mouth of Walnut cr., and the city of Great Bend is a mile or two beyond that.

[IV-5] This wild notion was a pet of Pike's, which he indulged to the extent of embodying it in the title of his book, and making his map fit it. No man can go, afoot or on horseback, in anything like one day, from any possible position, to the sources of all those rivers. It can be taken as an indication of the really close approximation of certain pairs of rivers, which drain from opposite sides of the same range, or made elastic enough to suit the situation about Mt. Lincoln, where some heads of the Grand, the Arkansaw, and the South Platte approximate; but the other rivers are entirely out of the question. Owing to Pike's ignorance of the existence of the North Platte, all that he says in various places of his hypothetical Yellowstone comes nearer the facts in the case of the Platte. "La Platte" he only knew from the sources of the South Platte.

[IV-6] This "Mr. M'Cartie" was Le Chevalier Macarty, Makarty, etc., who in 1751 succeeded Le Sieur de St. Clair as major-commandant of the Illinois. He was by birth an Irishman, became a major of engineers, and served about nine years in the position indicated. The far-famed Fort Chartres is called by Wallace "the only great architectural work of the French in the entire basin of the Mississippi, over which, in succession, had proudly floated the flags of two powerful nations." Old Fort Chartres, or De Chartres, supposed to have been so named for the Duc de Chartres, son of the then Regent of France, was built in 1719 and 1720, under the direction of Pierre DuquÉ de Boisbriant, the king's lieutenant for France, at the expense of the Company of the West; it at once became military headquarters and the center of authority, and was long prominent in the French history of Illinois. It was rebuilt in 1753-56 during Major Macarty's incumbency, upon the plans of the French engineer Saucier, at an estimated cost of 5,000,000 livres; and this "new Chartres" is described as a "huge structure of masonry, an object of wonder and curiosity to all who ever beheld it"—some of these being antiquarians of the present day. The historic fortress suffered encroachments of the Mississippi for several years; it was finally dilapidated during a freshet in 1772, then evacuated by the British garrison, which removed to Fort Gage, and never reoccupied. We have many memorials of the progress of its decay, as well as of the period of its greatness: see Wallace's Illinois and Louisiana under French rule, 1893, pp. 270, 271, 313-318, which include various important references, notably to Pittman, whose description of the fort as it was in 1766 is transcribed, and to Beck's Gazetteer, giving a plan of the fort from observations made in 1820. The name stands for a steamboat landing near Prairie du Rocher, Randolph Co., Ill.

[V-1] The following Report was written by Lieutenant Wilkinson at a time when it was expected I had been cut off by the savages. It consequently alluded to transactions relative to the Expedition previous to our separation, which I have since corrected. But the adventures of his party, after our separation, are given in his own words.—Z. M. P.

The above explanatory note by Pike stood alone on p. 19 of the App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed. Wilkinson's Report, of which Chapter V. now consists, formed Doc. No. 2 of that Appendix, running pp. 20-32. It rehearses the movements of Pike's party to Oct. 28th, 1806, when the two officers separated at Great Bend, and Wilkinson started down the Arkansaw. It thus serves to some extent to check Pike's narrative, but is chiefly notable in this respect for some discrepancies which I have been unable to adjust. Lieutenant Wilkinson's health was not good during his descent of the Arkansaw, and he endured much hardship; to which causes is doubtless due in part the lack of anything very notable in his Report. James Biddle Wilkinson was the son of General James Wilkinson of Maryland. He entered the army as a second lieutenant of the 4th Infantry, Feb. 16th, 1801; was transferred to the 2d Infantry, Apr. 1st, 1802; became first lieutenant Sept. 30th, 1803, and captain Oct. 8th, 1808, and died Sept. 7th, 1813.

[V-2] The toise is an old French measure of length equal to six French feet or 1.949 meter, and therefore to about 6.4 English feet.

[V-3] The party reached and crossed the Neosho Sept. 9th, and struck the Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas r. on the morning of the 16th: see those dates in Pike's itinerary, and notes there.

[V-4] There are material discrepancies between Wilkinson's and Pike's accounts of the 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th, not easy to reconcile, even supposing the two officers were separated a part of the time. Pike comes first to what he calls "Little Saline" r., and then to Great Saline on the 11th; Smoky Hill r., 12th; 7 m. beyond it to head of a branch of it, 13th; over the divide, 14th, to Cow cr.; and is lost on Walnut cr., 15th. His map puts a camp-mark on Little Saline, date uncertain; one on Great Saline, 11th; one on Smoky Hill r., 12th; and none for 13th, 14th, or 15th. Wilkinson comes first to Grand Saline, 11th; "Second or Small Saline," 12th; Smoky Hill, 13th; over divide and on to a branch of the Arkansaw, also on the 13th; reaches Arkansaw 14th, about midnight. We have here a day miscounted; reverse sequence of the two Saline rivers; and several camp-marks misplaced or missing. All this adds to the trouble we found in trying to follow Pike's itinerary, and I do not see how the difficulty can be adjusted. What seems certain is: 1. Great Saline r. reached or crossed on the 11th; Smoky Hill r. reached or crossed on the 12th; divide crossed and camp on Cow cr., 13th, 14th; Wilkinson on the Arkansaw at midnight of the 15th, when Pike and Robinson were lost on Walnut cr.

[V-5] Again a discrepancy from Pike. According to his diary he left the party at 5 p. m., 15th, with Dr. Robinson; was lost, 16th and 17th; found and brought to Wilkinson's camp on the Arkansaw, 18th; so Wilkinson could have remained but two days in suspense, which was relieved on the third day. As Pike himself informs us that he "corrected" Wilkinson's Report for the time they were together, yet evidently failed to make it fit his own, we may be excused if we do not succeed in the attempt. On some points I suspect Wilkinson came nearest the facts. He did not lose his notes and supplement from memory, as Pike was forced to do; he was not hunting for the Spanish trail, nor for buffalo; and he did not get bewildered on Walnut cr.

[V-6] Both accounts fortunately agree on this notable date—the day on which Pike started up the Arkansaw and Wilkinson down the same river. The distance made by the latter on the 28th sets him about the mouth of Antelope cr., a small run that makes in on the right or south a mile above the mouth of Walnut cr. Here he remained on the 29th and 30th. There is obviously no possibility of following him closely through his benumbed voyage; we can only check his course at the most notable points.

[V-7]
[V-8] Wilkinson's, "bold running stream" and his "large creek" are probably identifiable by the above data; but in my ignorance of these details I can only presume, without knowing, that he means Cow cr. and the Little Arkansaw, these being the two principal tributaries of the Arkansaw in Kansas below Great Bend. Cow cr. is the same stream whose headwaters Pike and Wilkinson came upon before they reached Great Bend: see note¹⁰, p. 424; but it falls in much lower, at Hutchinson, Reno Co., Kas. The Little Arkansaw is that river at whose mouth is Wichita, seat of Sedgwick Co., Kas. Both these streams course very obliquely to the Arkansaw, from the N. W., and fall in on the left bank.

[V-9] "Negracka" is here an error; Wilkinson means the Ninnescah, Nenescah, or Nenesquaw r., which falls in from the W. on the right hand; town of Whitman, Sumner Co., Kas., at its mouth. This is the only instance I have ever known of the misapplication of the name Negracka, which belongs absolutely to, and was long the current name of, the Salt fork of the Arkansaw: see next note. Thus, we read in Morse's Gazetteer, 1821, p. 499: "Negracka River ... falls into the Arkansaw from the N. W. It is 100 yards wide." The Nenescah is a smaller stream than this. It is lettered "Ne-ne-sesh, or Good Riv." on a map of the Indian Terr., etc., Engineer Bureau, War Dept., Oct., 1866. Between his Negracka or the Nenescah r., and his Neskalonska or the Salt fork of the Arkansaw, Wilkinson passes the following streams: 1. Slate cr., from the N. W., traversing Sumner Co. obliquely; 2. Walnut cr. (formerly Whitewater r.), from the N., with an average course nearly due S., through Butler and Cowley cos., Kas., to fall in at Arkansaw City; 3. Grouse cr., from the N. E., in Cowley Co., its mouth nearly on the boundary between Kansas and Oklahoma; 4. Chilockey or Chilocco cr., over the Oklahoma line, school reservation there; 5. Deer cr., from the W., very small; 6. Beaver cr., from the N. E., whose mouth is at the Kaw or Kansas Agency; 7. South Coon cr., from the N., but falling in on the right, very small; 8. Turkey cr., from the N., but mouth on the right, between Cross and Ponca stations of the Arkansaw branch of the A., T., and S. F. R. R.

[V-10] "Neskalonska" is a name I have failed to find elsewhere, but fortunately there is no question of the river to which Wilkinson applies it. This is Salt fork, the third largest branch of the Arkansaw from the W.—the Cimarron being second, and the Canadian first in size. Wilkinson's "Neskalonska" and his "Grand Saline or Newsewtonga" are respectively Salt fork and Cimarron r. of present nomenclature. Notwithstanding their great size and importance, and the fact that they fall into the Arkansaw about a degree of latitude and of longitude apart, they have been completely confused by geographers, on whose maps almost every name of each has been misapplied to the other. Salt fork is the upper and smaller one of the two, which falls in through the Ponca Reservation, at or near Ponca P. O. and Ponca Agency, in Oklahoma. Cimarron r. is the lower and larger one of the two, which falls in through the Indian Territory at a point on the boundary of Oklahoma. Salt fork has been called: Salt fork; Salt r.; Salt cr.; Saline fork; Saline r.; Saline cr.; Red fork; Red r.; Little Arkansaw r. (duplicating a name: see note⁸, p. 548); Nescutango r.; Negracka r. (its usual name for many years); Semerone, Cimarone, Cimmaron, Cimarron r.—the last four variants of the same word, and like Nescutango, properly belonging only to the next, viz.: Cimarron r. This has been called: Red fork; Saline r.; Grand Saline r.; Jefferson r.; Nesuketong, Nesuketonga, Nesuhetonga, Nescutanga, Newsewketonga r.; Cimmaron, Cimarron r. On analyzing the comparative applicability of these names, I find that "Salt" or "Saline" belongs most properly to the upper and smaller stream, for which we now use it, and when applied to the lower is usually qualified as Grand Saline; that "Red" is misapplied to both indifferently; that "Little Arkansas" is only applied to the upper, and "Jefferson" only to the lower stream; that "Negracka" is absolutely the name of the upper one alone; that "Nesuketonga" and its variants are almost entirely confined to the lower one; and finally that "Cimarron" in its variations is equally common to both, though in present usage it is absolutely restricted to the lower one.

These data rest upon the examination of a large lot of old maps with special reference to the points involved, with the assistance of Mr. Robert F. Thompson of the Indian Bureau at Washington. These maps show a curious reversal in the size of the two rivers, the earlier and poorer ones making the upper stream the larger of the two, and conversely. Furthermore, the tendency has always been to call the larger one "Cimarron" and "Red," no matter which its position. Aside from this, the most sharply contrasted pairs of names are "Salt" and "Negracka" for the upper stream, and "Red" and "Nesuketonga" for the lower one. Thus, to be more specific: 1. John Melish's map of the U. S., engr. by J. Vallance and H. S. Tanner, pub. Philada., 1820, has Negracka, upper, larger; Jefferson, lower, smaller. 2. H. S. Tanner's map of N. Amer., in the New American Atlas, pub. Philada., 1823, map dated 1822, has Negracka or Red r., upper, larger; and Nesuhetonga or Gr. Saline, lower, smaller. 3. The American Atlas, pub. Philada., H. C. Carey and I. Lea, 1823, has a map of the U. S., with Negracka or Red Fork, upper, larger, and Grand Saline, lower, smaller; also, a map of the Arkansaw, etc., drawn by Major S. H. Long, with Negracka or Red Fork, upper, larger; and Nesuketonga or Grand Saline, lower, smaller; also, a map of Mexico, etc., based on Humboldt, etc., by J. Finlayson, with these very same names. 4. A. Finlay's map of North America, pub. Philada., 1826, has upper larger stream Negracka or Semerone R.; lower one, very small, Grand Saline. 5. A map of Mexico in Anthony Finlay's Atlas, pub. Philada., 1830, has Negracka, upper and larger; the lower smaller one unnamed. 6. A map of North America in Tanner's Atlas, pub. Philada., Carey and Hart, 1843, has Negracka, upper and larger; Gr. Saline, lower and smaller; the map of Mexico and Guatemala, in this atlas, represents the two as Red Br. and Saline. 7. On Josiah Gregg's map of the Indian Territory, etc., in Morse's N. A. Atlas, pub. N. Y., Harper and Brothers, 1844, also accompanying Gregg's Commerce of the Prairies, the two rivers are represented of about the same size, the upper one being lettered Cimarron R. and Salt Fork; the lower, Red Fork of the Arkansas R. This is a notably good map for its date, and in the matter now under examination may be taken as the turning-point to a better understanding of the facts in the case. 8. On a map of Texas, etc., pub. Philada., S. Augustus Mitchell, 1846, the upper and still larger river appears as Cimarone or Salt Fork; the lower, as Red Fork. 9. On a map of Mexico issued by H. S. Tanner, 3d ed., 1846, the upper, larger stream is given as Semerone, Negracka, or Red River; the lower, as Saline. 10. On a map of the U. S. in Harper's Statistical Gazetteer of the World, by J. Calvin Smith, pub. N. Y., Harper and Brothers, 1855, the upper stream is called Cimarron or Salt Fork; the lower, Red Fork of Arkansas. 11. Emory's beautiful map of the Western U. S., pub. 1857-58, has Salt Fork for the upper and much smaller stream, and Red Fork of the Arkansas for the other. 12. A map of Kansas, etc., in Mitchell's Atlas of 1861, represents the upper stream as Cimarron River, the lower as Red Fork of the Arkansas. 13. The map of N. A. in Johnston's Family Atlas, pub. N. Y., Johnston and Ward, 1864, shows the two in a peculiar manner, and calls the upper one Semerone, the lower one Nesuketong. 14. The Office of Indian Affairs has on file a very fine map of the Indian Territory, drawn by Ado Hunnius from the reconnoissance of Lieutenant J. C. Woodruff in 1852, and from a War Dept. map of 1866, on which the upper and now smaller river appears as Salt Creek or Nescutanga, or Salt Fork of the Arkansas, and the much larger lower one as Cimarron River or Red Fork of the Arkansas. 15. The War Dept. map of the Indian Territory, Engineer Bureau, Oct., 1866, letters for the smaller upper stream Nescutango R. and Little Arkansas R.; for the other, Cimarron River and Red Fork of Arkansas River. 16. A manuscript map by John C. McCoy, on file in the Office of Indian Affairs, has Red Fork for the upper, and Ne se ke tonga for the lower one. 17. On a cabinet map of the U. S., pub. Chicago, Rufus Blanchard, 1868, the upper one is called Little Arkansas River, the lower one being styled Red Fork of Arkansas River. 18. A map of the U. S. in Mitchell's Atlas of 1874 shows the upper and larger stream as Cimmaron or Salt Fork, and the smaller lower one as Red Fork; the map of Texas in the same atlas shows only the latter, given as Red Fork of Arkansas. 19. The General Land Office map of the Indian Territory, 1879, letters for the upper river Salt Fork of Arkansas R., and for the other Red Fork of the Arkansas or Cimarron River; the same Office's map of Oklahoma, 1894, has Salt Fork of Arkansas River for the one, and Cimarron River for the other.

The consensus of the above, aside from the eccentricities and errors involved, is reducible to Salt fork or Negracka r. for the upper one, and Red fork, Nesuketonga, or Cimarron r. for the other one, of these two important streams. One of the curiosities in the matter is the constancy of the form of the word Negracka, as well as its restriction to a single river.

[V-11] The Verdigris, Vermilion, or Wasetihoge r. has been already noticed, when Pike's party reached its headwaters in Kansas: see note⁵⁸, p. 400. The present nomenclature of its principal branches is: 1. Hominy cr., in the Osage and Cherokee countries of the Indian Territory, with a main fork, Bird cr., site of the Osage Agency; 2. Caney r., or the Little Verdigris, falling in by the Blue Mounds in the Cherokee country, and formed of two main forks known as Big and Little Caney creeks, both of which head in Kansas; 3. Elk r., heading in the Kansan county of that name, and falling in above Independence, in Montgomery Co., Kas.; 4. Fall r., one of the terminal forks of the Verdigris, and on which is Fredonia, Wilson Co.

[V-12] See note¹⁰ for synonymy. The Cimarron is a very large river, which drains from the eastern slopes of the great mountains in New Mexico and runs thence through southwestern portions of Kansas, loops into Oklahoma Territory from Meade Co., Kas., loops back into Kansas in Clarke Co., and thence through the S. W. corner of Comanche Co. into Oklahoma again, traverses this Territory, and joins the Arkansaw between the Osage and Creek countries, at a certain point on the line between Oklahoma and the Indian Territory.

In passing from Salt fork to the Cimarron, we have first, Red or Red Rock cr., a sizable stream from the W. or right; places called Redrock and Otoe on it; second, Buck cr., left, from the N., once known as Suicide cr.; third, Gray Horse cr., small, left, from the N. E.; fourth, Black Bear cr., large, from the W., on the right. The Pawnee Agency is on this stream, which some maps wrongly run into the Cimarron instead of the Arkansaw.

[V-13] This is not easily determined, as there are several small streams of similar character between the Cimarron and the Verdigris, among them those called Polecat, Snake, Cane, and Caney (or Pocan) creeks.

[V-14] For these two rivers, see back, notes⁵³, ⁵⁵, pp. 397, 398, and following to p. 402; also, note¹¹, p. 555.

[V-15] This was the so-called "Arkansaw band" of Osages, the circumstances of whose secession from the Osage village on the Little Osage r. are mentioned by Pike elsewhere, as well as by Wilkinson in the present instance. The faction seems to have been fomented by Chouteau through jealousy of Lisa's exclusive right to trade on the Osage r. The affair must have been notorious at the time, as various authors speak of the settlement of this Osage band on the Verdigris or, as it was also called, Vermilion r. Among them are Lewis and Clark: see ed. 1893, p. 12.

[V-16] This Illinois r., still so called, heads in Washington and Benton cos., Ark., crosses the W. border of the State N. of 36°, and runs through the Cherokee country in the Indian Territory, to fall into the Arkansaw a short distance above the mouth of the Canadian. Between the Illinois and Canadian rivers, on the E. side of the Arkansaw, opposite the mouth of Elk cr., is a place called Webber's Falls, with reference to the falls of which Wilkinson speaks.

[V-17] The main fork of the Arkansaw, and scarcely a lesser stream. This is one of the six or seven large rivers which have shared the name "Red" or its equivalent, though less frequently than some of the others. This is because the Mexicans called it Rio Colorado at its headwaters, which they knew very well; and because, down to 1820, these were supposed to be those of the true "Red river of Natchitoches," a branch of the Mississippi. The discovery that this Rio Colorado or Red r. was the source of the Canadian was made by Major Long, who followed it down, thinking he was on the Red r. of Natchitoches, and was not undeceived till he found its confluence with the Arkansaw. This is noted in 1844 by Gregg, and in 1855 by Warren; it was the third attempt made by the United States Government to discover the sources of the true Red r., Captain Sparks having been first, in 1806, and Pike second. "Canadian," as applied to the main fork of the Arkansaw, has no more to do with the Dominion of Canada in history or politics than it has in geography, and many have wondered how this river came to be called the Canadian. The word is from the Spanish Rio CaÑada, or Rio CaÑadiano, through such a form as Rio CaÑadian, whence directly "Canadian" r., meaning "CaÑon" r., and referring to the way in which the stream is boxed up or shut in by precipitous walls near its headwaters. These drain from E. slopes of the Raton and other great mountains in New Mexico E. of Taos and Santa FÉ, by such streams as the Vermijo (Bermejo), Little Cimarron, PouÑel or PoÑi, Rayado, and OcatÉ, which join above the caÑada, and the Moro, which falls in further down. Leaving New Mexico the great river courses eastward through Texas, enters Oklahoma at long. 100° W. (near lat. 36° N., vicinity of Antelope hills), traverses this territory to about long. 98° W., separates it from the Indian Territory to beyond long. 97° W., and runs in the latter to join the Arkansaw near long. 95° W., in the vicinity of Webber's falls, at a point on the boundary between the Cherokee and Chocktaw countries, about 40 m. E. of the Arkansaw State line. Its principal branch is the North fork, which as far as it goes is a parallel stream, skirting the Canadian for hundreds of miles at no great distance northward of the main stream.

[V-18] Poteau or Potteau r. marks a notable point in this barren itinerary, as it falls in on the boundary between the Indian Territory and Arkansas, immediately above the important and well-known Fort Smith. This is situated on the right bank of the Arkansaw, in Sebastian Co., which the river divides from Crawford Co. Poteau is F. for post, and the name may refer to some early landmark of that sort: see note³³, p. 378. Small tributaries of the Arkansaw between the Canadian and Poteau rivers are Vine cr., left; Sans Bois and Cache creeks, right; Sallison and Skin creeks, left—in the order here named.

[V-19] Wilkinson's "river au Millieu" is apparently that now called Lee or Lee's cr., which makes in between Fort Smith and Van Buren, seat of Crawford Co. It courses mostly in Arkansaw, but loops into and out of the Indian Territory. Four of its branches are called Cove, Brushy, Webber, and Garrison. The F. phrase RiviÈre au Milieu, equivalent to "Middle" or "Half-way" r., does not seem to have been much used anywhere in the U. S., though it is a still current voyageurs' designation of several different streams in British America.

[V-20] For the Quapaw or Kwapa Indians, see L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. 12 and 98, notes. Together with the Kansas, Osages, Omahas, and Poncas, they constitute a division of the Siouan stock called Dhegiha—a word equivalent to "autochthon." Dr. Sibley gives the names of the three Kwapa villages as Tawanima, Oufotu, and Ocapa: London ed. 1807, p. 53. Quapaw, Kwapa, Ocapa, Oguoppa, Quappa, Kappa, Ukaqpa, etc., are all forms of their name of themselves, meaning "those who went down river." Our knowledge of the village is traced back to Joliet and Marquette, July, 1673; the name Akansa, adopted in some form by the French, is what the Kwapas were called by the Illinois Indians, and the origin of our Arkansas or Arkansaw. The form Acanza is found on Vaugondy's map, 1783. About 230 Kwapas still live in Oklahoma and the Indian Territory.

[V-21] Arkansas Post perpetuates the name of the oldest establishment of whites in the lower Mississippi valley. The present village is on the N. bank of the Arkansaw r., in the county and State of Arkansas, 73 m. S. E. of Little Rock, the capital. Though never a locality of much importance, its place in history is secure and permanent. Early in the year 1685, Henri de Tonti, the famous trusty lieutenant of La Salle, was reinstated in command of Fort St. Louis of the Illinois, with titles of captain and governor, by order of the French king Louis XIV. Tonti learned that La Salle was in trouble somewhere in New Spain (Texas), and organized an expedition for his relief. On Feb. 16th, 1686, he left Fort St. Louis, with 30 Frenchmen and 5 Indians, descended the Illinois and Miss. rivers to the Gulf, and scoured the coast for miles, but saw no sign of his great chief. He wrote a letter for La Salle, which he committed to the care of a chief of the Quinipissas for delivery, should opportunity offer, and retraced his way up the Miss. r. to the mouth of the Arkansaw, which latter river he ascended to the village of the Arkensa Indians. There, on lands which La Salle had already granted him, he stationed six of his men, who volunteered to remain in hopes of hearing from the distant commander. This was the origin of the Poste aux Arkansas. La Salle was murdered by the traitor Duhaut, one of several ruffians among his own men who conspired to his foul assassination, some say on one of the tributaries of the Brazos, at a spot which has been supposed to be perhaps 40-50 m. N. of present town of Washington, Tex.; the date is Mar. 19th or 20th, 1687. Seven of the survivors of La Salle's ill-starred colony at Fort St. Louis of Texas, reached Arkansas Post after a journey computed at the time to have been 250 leagues, in the summer of 1687, and found Couture and De Launay, two of the six whom Tonti had stationed there the year before. (See Wallace, Hist. Ill. and La., etc., 1893.) This Tonti (or Tonty), b. about 1650, died at Mobile, 1704, was the son of Lorenzo Tonti, who devised the Tontine scheme or policy of life insurance. Arkansas Post was the scene of Laclede's death, June 20th, 1778. The place was taken by the Unionists from the Confederates, Jan. 11th, 1863.

[VI-1] General Wilkinson's instructions to Lieutenant Pike were conveyed in the form of two letters, of June 24th and July 12th, respectively, made in the orig. ed. pp. 107-110 of main text of Pt. 2, though they were set in smaller type as a sort of preface or introduction. But as no such preliminary is observed in the other two parts of the book, and as these orders are in the form of letters from the general to his lieutenant, I think they are preferably brought in here. By this single transposition the whole of the correspondence relating to the Arkansaw expedition is brought together in chronological order to form the present Chapter VI.

[VI-2] On the subject of our then strained relations with New Spain I have examined much unpublished manuscript in the Archives of the Government at Washington, but most of it has become a matter of well-known history, needless to bring up here. It is well understood that Pike had secret instructions from the traitor, General Wilkinson, over and beyond those which were ostensible; and no doubt the main purpose of his Expedition was to open the way to Santa FÉ, with reference to such military operations as then seemed probable. It is certain that General Wilkinson contemplated the possibility if not the probability of invading New Mexico. Take as evidence the following extract of a letter he wrote to the Secretary of War, dated St. Louis, Nov. 26th, 1805:

" ... Our situation at New Orleans is a defenceless one, & Colonel Freeman's removal of two Companies from Fort Adams to that city leaves us without the means of offence above Batton Rouge, which I do [not] like, but Freeman felt himself too feeble to stand alone without those Companies—I most ardently implore we may not be forced to War, because I seek repose & we are not indeed prepared for it, that is against European troops—yet if we must draw the sword, the whole of the troops destined to operate West of the Mississippi should be mounted, whether Gun-men or sword-men, because every Man of the Enemy will be found on Horse Back, and the composition should be such as I have described in a former Letter—If any thing should be done from this Quarter direct, and I might be indulged to recommend my officers, to plan & Lead the expedition. If I do not reduce New Mexico, at least, in one Campaign, I will forfeit my Head."

[VI-3] Art. 3 bears the same number that this piece had in the orig. ed., and the same is the case with all the following articles of the present chapter, with one exception, where transposition of Orig. Nos. 8 and 9 to make Arts. 9 and 8 is required to preserve the chronological order. All these letters are from Pike to Wilkinson, excepting my Art. 8, Orig. No. 9, which is from Wilkinson to Pike, and one to General Dearborn. Pike's letters are in the nature of reports of progress to his commanding general and the Secretary of War. They ceased, of course, upon his separation from Lieutenant Wilkinson, and nothing further was heard of or from him till his return from Mexico, in July, 1807.

[VI-4] There is no allusion to this matter in the letter as originally printed, where a long row of asterisks indicates the elision of what it was not thought prudent to publish at that time.

[VI-5] There were two Bissells, both of Connecticut, and of the same or similar rank in the army, often confused in records of the time, unless their first names are given, as in this instance; 1. Daniel Bissell became an ensign in the 1st Infantry, Apr. 11th, 1792; was arranged to the 1st sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; promoted to a lieutenancy Jan. 3d, 1794; assigned to the 1st Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; made a captain Jan. 1st, 1799; lieutenant-colonel, 1st Infantry, Aug. 18th, 1808; colonel, 5th Infantry, Aug. 15th, 1812; brigadier-general, Mar. 9th, 1814; honorably discharged June 1st, 1821, and died Dec. 14th, 1833. 2. Russell Bissell became a lieutenant of the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, 1791; was arranged to the 2d sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; made captain Feb. 19th, 1793; assigned to the 2d Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; transferred to the 1st Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; promoted to be major of the 2d Infantry Dec. 9th, 1807, and died Dec. 18th, 1807. Two other Connecticut Bissells who became army officers a little later were Lieutenant Hezekiah W., who entered in 1801 and died in 1802; and Captain Lewis, who entered as an ensign in 1808 and resigned in 1817. One Daniel Bissell of Vermont served as a first lieutenant for about a year, 1799-1800, and in still later years there have been several other army officers of the same surname.

[VI-6] The above is such an important paragraph that I reproduce it verbatim from the original, though it is so badly constructed as to be very obscure. The obscurity, however, is simply bad grammar, not intentional veiling of anything; and as the sentences cannot be conveniently reconstructed in the text, I would read as follows:

"With respect to the Ietans, the general may rest assured that I shall be very cautious about trusting them. I feel more at a loss how to conduct myself with the Spaniards, for my instructions send me to the Comanche country, part of which is no doubt claimed by Spain, though the boundaries between Louisiana and New Spain have never been settled. Consequently, should I meet a Spanish party from the villages near Santa FÉ, I think it would be good policy to give them to understand (1) that my party was going to join our troops near Natchitoches, but had mistaken the Rio Grande for Red river; (2) that if it would be agreeable to the Spanish commandant, some or all of us would pay him a polite visit; and (3) that if he did not wish us to do this, we would go direct to Natchitoches. In any event, I flatter myself that I shall get out of the scrape somehow. But if Spanish jealousy of Americans, and the Aaron Burr conspiracy, cause us to be made prisoners of war (in time of peace), I trust that you will see that we are released, and they are punished for the insult. Moreover, if I do not feel assured they will treat us well in Mexico, I will fight them, no matter how many there are, before I will let them take us there."

This sort of talk is not that mixture of youthful enthusiasm with prudence for which Pike begs Wilkinson's pardon in the next paragraph; but the determination of a resolute young fellow to obey orders to the best of his ability, and accomplish if possible the purpose of the secret instructions given him by General Wilkinson. It is also what boys call a "dead give away"; for here, at the outset of his Expedition, Pike is talking about going to New Mexico, intending to deceive the Spaniards he expected to meet there, and weighing the chances of their good or bad treatment of himself and party. I forbear to characterize the ethics of the situation; the discerning reader will be able to look through this hole in a grindstone, and form his own conclusions: see also note⁴⁶ p. 504.

[VI-7] A sort of ornamental neck-band, such as used to be worn by some officers with insignia of rank, and somewhat like those still affected by Free Masons and other ecclesiastical or civic orders on occasions of ceremony.

[VI-8] To this Art. 15 belongs the following table headed Statistical Abstract of the Indians, etc., which in the orig. ed. was directed to be bound facing p. 53. This page was followed by blank p. 54, the leaf of the book thus represented being simply an overrunning of the matter of the original folder. All that Recapitulation which was on p. 53 is embodied in the table which now forms pp. 590, 591.

[VI-9] An itemized account of the Congressional appropriation for, and estimated expenses of, Lewis and Clark's Expedition, is given on p. xxi of the 1893 ed. of L. and C. So far as I have been able to inform myself, we lack the data which would enable us to make the comparison which Pike modestly conceives might be favorable to his own expeditions. To whatever sum may have been expended on the part of the United States for the Mississippian voyage and the Arkansaw journey, as performed under the orders of General Wilkinson, is to be added the cost of the enforced Mexican tour, in so far as this was paid by the United States on the strength of claims for reimbursement presented by the Spanish authorities. On this latter score I have found some curious unpublished documents in the archives of the War Department at Washington. Certain of these items will be found beyond in proper connection with the official correspondence on the subject.

[VI-10] Pike's expected promotion to a captaincy occurred Aug. 12th, 1806.

[I'-1] The Mexican Tour trips at the start with misstatements which must have puzzled many a reader, as they did the present editor. Reference to p. 510 will show that yesterday, Feb. 26th, Pike "went up the river about 12 miles." He does not say what river; but as he was on the Conejos, we naturally take that to be the one he ascended that day—and we are right. But to-day he speaks of "ascending the Rio del Norte five miles more," implying that yesterday's march was up this river, as to-day's is said to be. Then we are confronted by the statement that to-day's course is "S. 60° W."—a direction in which it is impossible to ascend the Rio del Norte to any distance. The difficulty vanishes at once, if for "Rio del Norte" we read Rio Conejos. This emendation is confirmed by Pike's map, which contradicts the above text, showing no dÉtour up the Rio Grande; the dotted trail goes from the stockade directly up Rio Conejos, to a point on its N. or left bank marked "1st. Camp"—i.e., the "place of deposit" to which the Spaniards took him on the 26th. This place, where the Spaniards had established themselves when they sent for Pike, was on the direct road by which they had come from Santa FÉ, and not far from the present town of Conejos, though probably somewhat further down the river of that name. The road which now crosses the river at the town holds the course of a trail which ran N. to the Saguache mts. and through Cochetope Pass to the Gunnison and Grand rivers, and so on. This was formerly much used by the Utes en route to Santa FÉ, and was no doubt in existence in 1807. Conejos, seat of the county so named, is a very well-known place on the river, in the plain between the San Luis hills on the E. and the foothills of the San Juan range on the W.; it is directly under Prospect Peak (9,900 feet; air-line 8 m.). Roads concenter here from various directions; that hence to Fort Garland, 35¼ m. N. E., crosses the place where Pike had his stockade; that S. W. to old Fort Lowell is 49½ m. Some small places in the vicinity of Conejos are called Guadalupe, Servilleta, San Rafael, San JosÉ, and Brazos. The route pursued hence is the old main road S. down the Rio Grande, but at a considerable distance W. of that river for the present (along long. 106° W. nearly).

[I'-2] Soon after leaving Conejos the party crossed Rio San Antonio, or San Antonio cr. (the main branch of Rio Conejos), below the confluence of Los Pinos cr., past places of both these names, and at lat. 37° N. went from the present State of Colorado into the present Territory of New Mexico. This river heads E. of the Tierra Amarilla, in the mountain range of which Brazos Peak, over 11,000 feet, is a conspicuous elevation. The most notable feature of the day is Cerro San Antonio, nearly 11,000 feet high, standing out from the range. They skirted its E. base, among the hills of which Pike speaks, between it and the Buffalo buttes, as the D. and R. G. R. R. now does, and where is the station Volcano. S. W. of the peak are the Ortiz hills. Camp was set at or near the present station Tres Piedras (Three Rocks).

[I'-3] Or Rio Caliente, as the name of the stream is now usually rendered. This is formed by various tributaries from the N. and N. W. (Rita Servilleta, Vallecita, etc.), and joins the Rio Chama from the W., about 5 m. above their common entrance into the Rio Grande opp. San Juan. There are various other hot or warm springs than the one at which Pike stopped, and this one is 10 m. or so W. of the railroad station called Ojo Caliente. At various points near the Rio Grande, at a considerable distance to Pike's left, are numerous isolated elevations, some of which are Cerros Olla, Chifle, Montoso, Cristobal, Taoses, and Orejas. Since Pike entered New Mexico, on crossing lat. 37° on the 28th, his route has been practically along the W. border of Taos Co., so named from the well-known TaÑoan pueblo or town of Taos, frequently mentioned by him as Tons, Tous, Toas, etc., as his printer happened to fancy, while his engraver made it "Yaos" on the map of New Spain. This is on a branch of Taos cr.; when Pike passes its latitude to-day, he is about 20 m. W. of it. Some places passed along Caliente cr., to his right, are Petaca, Servilleta, and Cueva Springs. The name Taos has several different implications: for a river, Rio de Taos; for the country through which this river flows; for a town at the junction of its principal forks, otherwise San Fernandez; for a place 3 m. S. E. of this, Rancho de Taos; and for another place about the same distance N. E., Pueblo de Taos. San Fernandez de Taos was a Mexican adobe town, which had some 600-800 pop. in 1846, and was the capital of the Department of Taos. The old Indian pueblo of Taos, to which the insurgents had retreated Jan. 7th, 1847, after the skirmishes of CaÑada and Embuda, became noted during the war as the scene of a bloody siege and capture: see Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, p. 457.

In approaching the subject of the New Mexican Pueblo Indians it is necessary at the outset to free the mind from the traditional error that because these live in towns known as "pueblos," therefore they are one kind of Indians. I shall recur to the subject in a later connection. Here I wish to cite an early instance of the recognition of an all-important ethnological fact on the part of Lieutenant James H. Simpson, U. S. T. E., whose interesting Journal of a Military Reconnaissance from Santa FÉ, New Mexico, to the Navajo country, etc., in 1849, was published in 1850 as one of the collection of papers forming Ex. Doc. No. 64, 31st Congr., 1st Sess., 8vo, Washington, pp. 56-168, many pll. and maps. He speaks on p. 57 of "the singular and, as I believe, the hitherto unknown fact ... that among the 10,000 (estimated) Pueblo Indians who inhabit New Mexico, as many as six distinct dialects obtain, no one showing anything more than the faintest, if any, indications of a cognate origin with the other." He sharply but justly brings to book the English author Ruxton, for the grossly erroneous statement (Mex. and the R. Mts., p. 194) that "the Indians of northern Mexico, including the Pueblos, belong to the same family—the Apache.... All these speak dialects of the same language, more or less approximating to the Apache, and of all of which the idiomatic structure is the the same." A statement more at variance from the facts in the case could hardly be penned. Those Pueblo Indians whom Pike now or presently meets represent two distinct linguistic families, the Keresan and the TaÑoan; and we shall have several others to note in due course. The influence of the church upon the pueblo system has of course not escaped well-informed ethnographers, but I suspect they have not always given it full credit for the hand it had in first founding, then maintaining in misery, and finally fetching to grief, some of these sorry settlements of inoffensive Indians, who had escaped the Apaches on one side and the Navajos on the other, to be herded about some mud joss-house and fleeced as fast as they acquired any substance worth stealing. The business began early, and the way of it is something of a historical curiosity. A man named Alessandro Farnese—the one who was pope 1534-49, and who undertook to regulate the morals of various persons, besides Henry VIII., with indifferent success—once made a discovery so astonishing that he must have been inspired. Papa Paulo III. promptly published his find in a bull which was only saved from being Irish by the fact that it was Latin: for this ethnological pronunciamento a todos los fieles cristianos, que las presentes letras vieren declared in due and solemn form que los indios son hombres y capaces de sacramentos—i.e., told all the faithful to whom this exquisite tomfoolery came that Indians were human and could be humbugged. That was June 9th, 1537, and that settled it—the hint was enough to set upon the savages the horde of corrupt, profligate, and extortionate ecclesiastics who have cursed the country from that day to this. The first business of these people was always to build a church in which to brandish the crucifix at those who had escaped the tomahawk, and pray for the souls of those whose superstitions were thus played upon while their property was preyed upon—for churches cannot be built and priests supported unless somebody sweats for it. I hardly think that Indians thus huddled around a church, in abject terror alike of their natural and their supernatural enemies, outside and inside the pueblo, were any better off for self-defense than they would have been had they been left to their natural resources—though many have so fancied; for the numerical strength of such an aggregation would have been just as effective without that edifice, and tame Indians are no match for wild ones. The process of converting an Indian to Christianity simply mixes his metaphors and muddles his mind, by substituting for the superstitions he thinks he understands other mysteries which the priests themselves declare to be incomprehensible. The advantage of this to the Indian is not easily discerned, and some of its disadvantages are obvious. For example, the priests are responsible for a considerable amount of fornication and foeticide—I do not mean so much by their personal habits as by their keeping so many of their parishioners too poor to pay for marriages and baptisms. By the year 1680, the papal plan and the church method had worked so well that the converted Indians undertook to prove themselves men, capable of the very real sacrament of manhood; for they revolted against the intolerable yoke, killed a great many of their oppressors, and drove these ill-omened birds of prey from their repast for a while.

[I'-4] Pike joins Rio Caliente with the Chama (Conejos in the text, by error) too near Ojo Caliente and too far from San Juan, but the sum of his figures is about right. Rio Caliente does not seem to be as well populated now as it was in his day; Los Gallegos is a present place on this stream. The confluence of the two is at the point of a butte, with the Black mesa immediately to the left or E.; some of the present places thence to the Rio Grande are Cuchilla, Chili, and San JosÉ, all on the W. side of Rio Chama, off his route, and not noted by him; the site of Chama itself was on the other side, near the mouth. The St. John's of the text, charted "Sⁿ Juan 1000," is the TaÑoan pueblo San Juan, pop. now 400. He crosses to this place on the E. side of the Rio Grande, where there was a ford or ferry; the railroad crosses there now, at EspaÑola.

[I'-5] I have not succeeded in identifying Baptiste Lalande. One Alexis Lalande (his × mark) appears among signers of a document executed at St. Louis, Oct. 30th, 1819; and on Sept. 16th, 1809, the same was one of a jury that convicted John Long of murdering one George Gordon the previous June 26th; and Alexis subsequently swore he neither spoke nor knew English. The William Morrison of the same paragraph is easily discovered. He was the oldest one of several brothers who came from Doylestown, Bucks Co., Pa.; had been associated with his uncle, Guy Bryan, in business in Philada.; came to Kaskaskia about 1785, and became prominent as a merchant there, in Cahokia, and in St. Louis; married (1) a lady of Illinois; (2) in 1813, a daughter of General Daniel Bissell, U. S. A.; died 1837, at Kaskaskia; was grandfather of Hon. William R. Morrison. (Billon's Annals, 1804-1821, pub. 1888, p. 219.)

[I'-6] In the orig. ed. this paragraph appears as Doc. No. 7, p. 69, of the App. to Pt. 3, to which Pike refers the reader by a footnote. But as it is out of place there, and also so short, I simply run it into the present and proper context.

[I'-7] The defective itinerary of Mar. 3d requires attention. We see that Pike crossed the river to San Juan, whence he goes down the E. side to Santa FÉ. But first for the places he marks on the W. side within the distance to Santa FÉ, and which are: 1. Abicu, pop. 500; 2. Cia, pop. 450; and 3. Gomez, pop. 500. 1. Abicu is marked as if it stood near the mouth of Rio Chama, in the vicinity of present San Antonio and San JosÉ; but its exact location is not difficult to discover. For this is the town now called Abiquiu, 20 m. by the road up the Rio Chama from the Rio Grande, on the S. side of the Chama, at the mouth of Frijoles (Beans) cr. It is on the long and well-known trail which led up the valley of the Chama and so on over the mountains en route to Los Angeles, Cal. 2. Cia or Sia is a Keresan pueblo, with a present pop. of about 100. 3. Gomez is the TaÑoan pueblo Jemez, misplaced too near the Rio Grande: see note beyond for this and for Cia. The Jemez trail from San Ildefonso passes the ruins of an old pueblo (called by the Spanish equivalent Pueblo Viejo), on the edge of the mesa, say 1½ m. W. of the Rio Grande and 5 m. S. W. of San Ildefonso. There is also within this distance the TaÑoan pueblo of Santa Clara, with a present pop. of over 200, on the W. side of the Rio Grande, a mile below the mouth of Santa Clara cr. From San Juan to Santa FÉ there are or were two roads; a lower, which hugs the Rio Grande for some distance before it turns away from the river, and an upper, more direct course, probably that which Pike took. In either case, he crossed the two small streams or arroyos now known as CaÑada and Nambe. Along his route he passed three villages, which are marked on the map and mentioned without name in the text. 1. The first of these, Santa Cruz, 5 or 6 m. from San Juan, is marked on the map "Village 1200"; in 1846 it had only 300 or 400. It is situated on the CaÑada near its mouth; higher up on the same are the Chimayo settlements and Potrero. 2. The next, 7¼ m. further, mapped as "Village 600," is Pojoaque or Pojuaque, a TaÑoan pueblo situated about 6 m. up Nambe cr. At the mouth of this stream stood and stands another TaÑoan pueblo, San Ildefonso; while Nambe, yet another village of the same family, was located on the same creek about 3 m. above Pojoaque. These have all declined during the century, the Indian pop. of Pojoaque being lately given as 20, that of San Ildefonso 148, that of Nambe 79. 3. The next village, "17 m." further, marked on the map "Village 600," is Tesuque (Tesugue, Zesuqua, etc.), likewise a TaÑoan pueblo, now of less than 100 Indians. There appear to have been two establishments of this name, 3 or 4 m. apart, both on a branch of Nambe cr.; the furthest on, falling in best with Pike's 17 m. from Pojoaque, is only some 6 m. from Santa FÉ. Between Pojoaque and Tesuque Pike passed by Cuyamanque or Cuyamunge: and he entered Santa FÉ from the N., by the site of old Fort Marcy.

It should be particularly observed in this place that Pike has two maps of this part of the Rio Grande, which are discrepant in several material respects. One is his Louisiana map, which he runs down to take in the Rio Grande to Santa FÉ. On this his trail is dotted as if it were the lower one, hugging the Rio Grande from Santa Cruz past Santa Clara (and Polvaredo) to San Ildefonso, before it turned off to Santa FÉ, and with the above three villages all on his left as he passed; the above village of Abicu is lettered Abricu, and a certain village of "Pino" is set at the mouth of Rio Santa FÉ. I have here gone by his New Spain map, which may be presumed to be his best delineation of Rio Grande country, and which certainly fits in best with the text which we here follow.

To finish reckoning the towns Pike maps north of Santa FÉ, we must note the following: 1. "Enbudo 500" on both maps. 2. "Tranpa 450" on one map, and "Tramha 450" on the other. 3. "Pecucio 500" on one map, and "Pecucis 500" on the other. These places all lie off to the N. E., in the direction of Taos. 1. Embudo or Embuda is a town on a creek of the same name, which makes into the Rio Grande from the E., about 25 m. by the road from San Juan. The location is a couple of miles above the mouth of the creek, which falls into the Rio Grande at a place called Rinconada on account of its cornered or shut-in site among the surrounding mesas. It is near the scene of an engagement in Jan., 1847, when Captain John H. K. Burgwin of the 1st U. S. Dragoons defeated the insurgents; he died Feb. 7th of wounds received Feb. 4th in the assault on Taos. 2. Trampas is a town on the creek of that name, a main tributary of the Embudo, 8 or 10 m. above the town of Embudo. You pass Trampas about halfway on the main upper road from Santa FÉ to Taos, about 7 m. N. of Truchas. 3. Picuris is an old TaÑoan pueblo, on another branch of this same Embudo cr., with a present pop. of 100.

All the foregoing places are under the shadow of the lofty mountains to the E., whence the several streams named also make down into the Rio Grande valley. Some of their peaks are: Lake, 12,400 feet; Baldy, 12,600 feet; the Cone, 12,700 feet; Truches, 13,100 feet; and the more isolated "U. S." mountain, 10,700 feet. On the other side of this range are the headwaters of Rio CaÑada—that great fork of the Arkansaw better known as the "Canadian" r., without the tilde: see note¹⁷, p. 558.

[I'-8] Santa FÉ is not "on the Rio Grande," as often loosely said, but at least 20 m. (direct) E. of that river, and considerably further than this up from the mouth of the small stream on which it is situated, in a rather out-of-the-way place. This creek, Rio de Santa FÉ, or Rio Chacito, comes down from the lofty Santa FÉ mts. under which the town nestles, and runs with a general S. W. course into the Rio Grande between the town of PeÑa Blanca and the old pueblo of Cochiti—places 3 m. apart. Cochiti is a Keresan pueblo on the W. bank of the Rio Grande; present pop. perhaps 250. PeÑa Blanca, often called PiÑa Blanca, on the E. bank, is a place where the Rio Grande can be forded, to take the old road from Santa FÉ to Fort Wingate.

Santa FÉ was first entered and occupied by the Army of the West under General Stephen Watts Kearny, Aug. 18th, 1846—his cowardly Excellency Don Manuel Armijo having blustered and promptly evacuated the place on the approach of our forces. The site of Fort Marcy was selected by Lieutenants W. H. Emory and J. F. Gilmer, in a commanding position 600 yards from the plaza of the town, and the work began on the 23d. On Sept. 22d General Kearny issued his manifesto for the government of New Mexico, under the authority of the President of the United States; appointing as governor Charles Bent (soon afterward cruelly massacred at Taos), and as secretary Donaciano Vigil; other territorial officers appointed were Richard Dallum, Francis P. Blair, Charles Blummer, Eugene Lertensdorfer, Joab Houghton, Antonio JosÉ Otero, and Carl Bavbien—the last three as judges of the supreme court. A copy of the original document, in Spanish, is given in Lieutenant J. W. Abert's report Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, p. 453. The population of Santa FÉ at that time was somewhere about 3,000; it is now only a little over 6,000. It was probably the site of a pueblo before 1500; but the present town has no authentic history back of 1608, when it was founded by Juan de OÑate as a capital or seat of government. The town may boast an unbroken record as such from that day to this, in spite of changing hands several times.

[I'-9] Lieutenant J. W. Abert supposes that these were those long known as the parroquia or parish church, and the capilla de los soldados or military chapel: Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, p. 454, where an account of them and services held in them, as these were in 1846, may be read. A plate shows the parish church, with "Fort Marez" (Marcy) in the distance.

[I'-10] The governor's certificate and Pike's remonstrance, here in mention, were given in the App. to Pt. 3, of which they formed Docs. Nos. 9 and 8, and will be found in due course, beyond.

[I'-11] Pike has the thing all right, but under a curious name I never saw elsewhere, and might not have recognized, had I not happened to hear cojinillo myself in New Mexico. This word is probably provincial or dialectal, as it is not found in ordinary Sp. dictionaries; in form it is a diminutive of cojin, name of a certain saddle-pad or cushion, precisely equivalent to E. "pillion." It turns up now and then in books about Mexico, as for example: "The corazas [covers] of travelling saddles are also provided with several pockets called coginillos—a most excellent contrivance for carrying a lunch or a bottle, or anything to which convenient access may be desired," Gregg, Comm. Pra., I. 1844, p. 214.

[I'-12] Marked "Vitior 200" on Pike's map. I do not recognize this name, but it is easy to pick out Pike's road to San Domingo, which he reaches to-morrow, and locate his Vitior at or within a mile of a place on the Rio Santa FÉ now called La Bajada, which is 7¾ m. from San Domingo. In starting from Santa FÉ for the Rio Grande at this point, you do not follow down the creek (Rio de Santa FÉ or Rio Chacito), but bear away from it on higher ground between it and Arroyo Hondo, pass a little place called Agua Fria, and then have a choice of two roads. One of these bears off more to the left, and strikes the creek at the hamlet of Cieneguilla, whence you follow the creek in the caÑon to La Bajada; but the straighter road keeps on S. W., crosses the creek higher up, cuts across the mesa south of Tetilla Peak, and suddenly pitches down into the creek at the mouth of the caÑon, where La Bajada is situated. This is what I suppose Pike means by saying he ascended a hill and then descended a precipice. If he went that way, he rode 15 m. from Santa FÉ to "Vitior" or La Bajada. (See Vitior in Index.)

[I'-13] Present Santo Domingo, or San Domingo, is at the mouth of Galisteo cr., with the pueblo immediately below it, on the E. bank of the Rio Grande, 4 or 5 m. below PeÑa Blanca. Pike charts it by name, and lays down this creek. The plate opp. p. 462 of Lieutenant Abert's report shows the pueblo as it was in 1846. Part of the road from Santa FÉ to San Domingo was bad, on account of the rocks in the caÑon of the little stream, and the sandy dunes near the pueblo. On getting out of the caÑon onto the plain, Pike had on his left the Sandia range, while ahead, but somewhat to the right, rose the Jemez mts. The Galisteo was probably quite dry. There were no trees to be seen till the cottonwood fringe of the Rio Grande came into view. The pueblo did not vary much for a century. It had about 800 pop. when I passed through in 1864; a very recent census yielded 690. As Pike says, these Indians are "of the nation of Keres," i.e., of the Keresan family. Had he taken the ford across the Rio Grande, which was used here at times when the water was not more than three or four feet deep, though 300 yards wide, and gone westward about 26 m. to the Rio Jemez, he would have come upon the TaÑoan town of Jemez, a dead-alive little place, which has held its population of 400 or 500 for many generations, and long sustained its old adobe church. Twelve miles above Jemez, at a place on the river called Ojos Calientes from its hot springs, were and may still be seen the ruins of another church, a view of which, as they appeared in 1849, is given on pl. 15 of Simpson's report already cited. Jemez is the place Pike means by the "Gomez 300" which he charts; only it is located too near the Rio Grande on his map. (See Santo Domingo in Index.)

[I'-14] Marked "Sⁿ. Philip de queres 1000" on the map, on the W. side of the Rio Grande. This is the pueblo of San Felipe, situated 7 m. S. of San Domingo, opp. the mouth of Tuerto cr., which falls in from the E., a little below the gulch or ravine called Arroyo del Espinazo. The town of Covero, or Cubero, is 5 m. above, on the same (W.) side of the Rio Grande. The large stream which Pike lays down on that side, just below his St. Philip's, is the Rio Jemez, which falls in between Algodones and Bernalillo. The word "queres" of the map is the same as Keres of the above text; i.e., San Felipe is a town of the Keresan nation. The place is on the W. side of the Rio Grande, which here straitens to 100 yards or so, about 6 m. above Algodones. Pike's town was no doubt the present San Felipe—the one at the foot of the mesa, and not that commonly called old San Felipe, about a mile off, upon the edge of the mesa; for this was in ruins half a century if not a century ago, and the pueblos are all slow to change, either for better or worse. It has taken nearly 100 years to reduce San Felipe from the population which Pike estimated at 1000 to the 550 of a very recent census. It has been more Mexicanized than some of the other Indian towns. Lieutenant Abert, speaking of the bridge which Pike mentions, says that when he was there, Oct. 10th, 1846, it had been entirely swept away, and the people had to ford the Rio Grande. The plate opp. p. 461 of his report shows some of them in the act. Another view of San Felipe is given in the same volume, opp. p. 39, in the report of Lieutenant W. H. Emory, who says that "the hardships, trials, and perseverance of the gallant Pike" came forcibly to his mind when he first caught sight of the Rio Grande, Sept. 2d, 1846, at San Domingo, whose population he judged to be about 600.

[I'-15] Marked "S Dies 500" on the map, on the E. side of the Rio Grande, to which Pike recrossed from San Felipe. The Spanish form would be San Diaz, but the pueblo is best known as Sandia or Zandia, a name also applied to the great mountain which rises on the E. As a Spanish word, sandia means "watermelon," and appeared in print as the name of this village in 1626. The aboriginal name of the pueblo is Nafiap, and its mission name was Nuestra SeÑora de los Dolores de Sandia. This is a TaÑoan town, with a present population of about 150. The situation is 12 m. above Albuquerque. Pike speaks of two small hamlets he passed to reach St. Dies. In 1864, when I passed over the road, there was a mean place called Algodones, of 30 or 40 houses and some 200 or 300 people, and 6 m. below this was a rather better one named Bernalillo. This is doubtless what Pike charts as "S Bernilla 500." Bernalillo is present name of a station of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Simpson relates that when he passed Sandia in 1849 he noticed in the space of a mile northward from the pueblo some 60 or 70 piles of stones which were said to mark the places where as many Navajos had fallen in battle with the Pueblonians some years before.

[I'-16] Old Albuquerque, to be distinguished from the present contiguous or adjacent city of the same name, one of the best-known places on the Rio Grande between Santa FÉ and El Paso. In coming to this town Pike passed sites of several places now named, though none of any note—as Corrales (on the opposite or W. side of the river, whence there is a road 18? m. to pueblo of Cebolleta); Alameda (where the river could be crossed to strike the Corrales-Cebolleta road); Ranchos d'Albuquerque; Los Griegos; and finally Candelaria. The word Albuquerque, or more properly Alboquerque, is the same as the name of the very celebrated Portuguese son of Mars and soldier of fortune, Affonso d'Alboquerque, who flourished in the latter part of the fifteenth century and early in the sixteenth (b. 1453, d. Dec. 16th, 1515). It is commonly pronounced on the spot Albykirky, and sometimes Albykirk. The old town was in existence about 1700, and now has some 1,750 pop.; the new one is a thing of yesterday, so to speak, but already a notable railroad center, capital of Bernalillo Co., with nearly 4,000 pop., and scheduled as 58 m. from Santa FÉ. Near Albuquerque there was a ford to a place called Atrisco, whence the road led westward to Fort Wingate; while eastward from Albuquerque a road went to the Tijeras caÑon, which marks off the Sandia range proper from the elevation S. of this caÑon called Monte Largo. Tijeras cr., when it runs, falls into the Rio Grande about 8 m. below Albuquerque. Sandival, a place that appears on various maps, was Sandival's hacienda, a couple of miles S. of Albuquerque, on an upper and dryer road than the one usually taken southward.

[I'-17] No crossing of the Rio Grande is indicated on Pike's map anywhere along here, his trail being dotted continuously on the E. side of the river. But it is quite certain that he crossed a little below old Albuquerque to Atrisco. There was here a ford, regularly used when the water was not too high. The railroad now crosses some miles lower down, between Isleta station and Isleta. Atrisco was a very well-known name, in consequence of the ford, before the days of the railroads, but is hardly to be found on ordinary maps of to-day. When I first crossed the Rio Grande, June 23d, 1864, our outfit was ferried over some 20 m. below Albuquerque, between places called Los Pinos on the E. and Las Lunas on the W. "Los Pinos" is short for Bosque or Alamo de los Pinos, as they called the large fine grove of cottonwoods there, but I do not think there were any pines. A couple of miles below was the hacienda of Mariano Chavez, brother of the unfortunate A. J. Chavez who was murdered near the Little Arkansaw: see note¹⁰, p. 424; M. Chavez was dead himself before 1847. The place where Pike so joyfully met the blooming Robinson is left open to question in the present text. If by the "next village" he means the next one he came to after leaving Albuquerque, this was certainly at or near the site of Atrisco. This is really the implication; otherwise we should have to go a good ways down the W. bank of the Rio Grande, to site of present Pajarito, or perhaps Isleta, at which latter place is now the junction of the Atl. and Pac. with the A., T., and S. F. R. R. The doubt is cleared away by the text of the 8th, where it appears that Pike visited Tousac (see next note) 3 m. from the village where Robinson was, and on the same (W.) side of the river, where the troops had been sent over night; and was then carted back over to the E. side of the river. He simply visited across the Rio Grande, as he had done at San Felipe, and then returned to continue his regular journey down the E. side. But neither of these two cases is put very clearly at first blush in the narrative.

[I'-18] "Tousac 500" is marked nearly opposite Albuquerque, at or near present site of Atrisco. What this can be, unless it is Atrisco itself, or some old place close by. I do not know. The name reminds us of Tesuque (see note⁷, p. 605), but the place here meant is obviously not that one. (See Tousac in Index.)

[I'-19] "S. Fernandez 500" is marked on the map as the first village below Albuquerque on the E. side. I do not recognize the name, nor can I find it on any one of several maps examined. No distance being given for the 8th, I am left entirely at a loss. But in no event can Pike have passed Peralta, a well-known place, and he is probably not far short of it. We may therefore note some places between Albuquerque and Peralta. Pajarito Arriba and Pajarito Bajo (Upper and Lower Pajarito) are two towns 3 m. apart, 3 and 6 m. below Atrisco, on the W. side of the river; and Tijeras or Tijera cr. or arroyo comes to the river from the E. about a mile below Pajarito Bajo. Three m. beyond this last town is Padillas, a Mexican town near the foot of the mesa, and three beyond this is Isleta—both on the W. side. None of these places was of importance; but Isleta is now a station on the A., T., and S. F. R. R., which makes a crossing of the Rio Grande to it from Isleta station on the E. side; and in the immediate vicinity of Isleta is the junction of the A. and P. R. R. Below Isleta station, on the E., are the Ranchitos d'Isleta; next is Los Pinos, already mentioned, then Chavez, and a mile from this stands Peralta. The latter was known at one time as Ontero's hacienda.

[I'-20] "S. Thomas 500" on Pike's map, a mile beyond which was camp of the 9th. As 12 m. advance was made to-day, St. Thomas and St. Fernandez were places 11 m. apart. Los Pinos, Peralta, and Valencia are all places within 3 m. of one another, and more or less nearly opposite Las Lunas, on the west, long a notable point of crossing of the Rio Grande, and present seat of Valencia Co. It is situated in the San Clemente tract, and near it are Las Lunas hills. Five miles below Valencia, on the E. side of the Rio Grande, is TomÉ hill, a conspicuous butte on the edge of the mesa, in lat. 34° 45´. TomÉ and the TomÉ ranches are 2 or 3 m. further south. These stretched along the river for more than a mile, presenting at times well cultivated and well irrigated grainfields.

[I'-21] "Sibilleta 1000," which Pike marks on his trail on the E. bank of the Rio Grande, is otherwise Cibolleta, La Joya de Cibolleta, or old La Joya, within the area of the Cevilleta or Joya Grant, and in Socorro Co. (next county S. of Valencia). Present La Joya is across the river, on the W. side; the railroad goes through it. Beyond old La Joya is Joya caÑon, on the E. All these places are a few miles S. of the confluence of the Rio Puerco with the Rio Grande, on the W. The Puerco is a sizable stream, or dry bed of one, on a general S. course, crossed at 23 m. distance in going W. from Las Lunas along the old road to ZuÑi, Fort Wingate, etc. Where I crossed, it was a sluggish thread of dirty yellow water which one could bestride; but it is some 75 m. long, and important in furnishing bounds to several of the land grants in Valencia and Bernalillo cos. There is no trace of the Puerco on Pike's map, though he lays down both Rio Chama and Rio Jemez. Before coming to the confluence of the Puerco he passed a number of places now named, which may be taken up thus: On the E. side are Constancia, Casa Colorada, Vellita, and Las Nutrias, with several others of less note. Casa Colorada ("Red House") gives name to the grant next south of TomÉ Grant; it is on the Rio Grande, 4 m. above the mouth of that considerable stream, high up on which are the ruins of Abo. On the W. side, where the railroad now runs, a principal place is Belen, in the vicinity of which were others which were called Ranchos de Belen, and Pueblitos de Belen; nearly opposite the last, but directly on the W. bank of the river, is Jarales. Next above the Belen pueblito, on the railroad, is Trejos, and next below it is San JosÉ. Below the last named is a point of woods, called in Spanish Punto del Bosque, and here is a place named Bosque. Rancho Sabinal, Sabinal station, and a certain Pueblito succeed one another, bringing us about opposite the above said Las Nutrias.

Along this whole stretch of the Rio Grande, from Peralta nearly to La Joya, a range of mountains extends in the E. offing, say 15-20 m. air-line to their summits. This is the Manzano range, running N. and S.; some of its peaks, up to 10,000 feet, are called Mosca, Capilla, Osha, and Manzano. The range continues S. under the name of Cerro Montoso. Roads start from many places on the Rio Grande to go through the caÑons or passes in these mountains.

We have also to attend to Sabinez and Xaxales of the above text, and with these may note several other pueblos Pike charts in this region.

1. Sabinez, or Sabinal, or Savinal, was a place near the W. bank of the Rio Grande, in the vicinity of present Sabinal station on the railroad, about 10 m. above new La Joya, and somewhat less above the mouth of Rio Puerco.

2. "Xaxales 300" is marked a few miles S. of Sabinez, at or near the place on the railroad now called Pueblito, 6 or 8 m. above new La Joya. "Xaxales" is the same word as Jarales (otherwise Gerrales), but does not seem to have denoted the place now called by the latter name.

3. Next W. of Sabinez and Xaxales, but well off the Rio Grande, Pike marks "Seguna 250." This is the large, old, and still flourishing Keresan pueblo of Laguna, with a present pop. of over 1,100. It is so called from the little lake or laguna hard by, on a branch of the Rito San JosÉ (a branch of the Rio Puerco). This pueblo is on the main road from the Rio Grande to ZuÑi and so on. An old Navajo trail takes or took off N. from Laguna, up another branch of the same rito, in the course of which latter is a cluster of small pueblos, as Povete, Pojuate, or Paguate; Moquino; Cebolleta; and Cebolletita; there were also various ruined pueblos here and there in the region watered by the Rito San JosÉ and its several trickling affluents. Covero is a pueblo not far W. N. W. of Laguna.

4. Pike marks "Cequimas 500" some distance S. W. of Laguna. This is the old and well-known Keresan pueblo of Acoma, on another affluent of the San JosÉ system, with a present pop. of about the same as it had in his time. Plates of Acoma and various other towns illustrate Lieut. J. W. Abert's report, Ex. Doc. 41, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub. 1848. (See Cequimas in Index.)

5. "Zumi 300" is charted near both of the foregoing, and E. of the continental divide. This is an error of location, for the pueblo meant is that of ZuÑi or Suinyi, one of the largest and on the whole the best known of all the Indian towns in New Mexico. It is situated on the Rio ZuÑi, tributary to the Colorado river system, and, therefore, on the Pacific slope. The place is famous as the very heart of the region where the "Seven Cities of Cibola" stood at the dawn of the historic period in Spanish invasion of this country; one of the seven having furnished at least a part of the present site of ZuÑi. The ZuÑian people, to the number of some 1,600, alone represent a distinct nation of pueblonians, called the ZuÑian family: see a note beyond.

6. West of his line of continental-divide mountains Pike locates two pueblos, or rather Indian villages, by the names of "Cumpa" and "Chacat." These are not far apart, and both approximate to the four Moki villages he charts: see a note beyond for the Mokis. The identification of Cumpa may be in question; but Chacat evidently stands for what Pike learned of the old establishments in the CaÑon de Chaco, or de Chasco. This is in N. W. New Mexico, and in such extent of the caÑon as has running water is the Rio Chaco, tributary of Rio San Juan, a branch of the Colorado Grande which enters above the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito, in Utah. This caÑon once harbored a large population in several different establishments, all long since gone to ruins; and the Chaco people have been the subjects of much disputed history. An excellent account of the ruins is contained in Simpson's Report, pp. 73-86; views of some of them are given on several plates. On his map the names of 10 of the 12 he locates stand as Pintado, Wejegi, Una Vida, Hungo Pavi, Chetho Kette, Bonito, Del Arroyo, Nos. 8 and 9 blank, PeÑasca Blanca.

[I'-22] Past Joya caÑon to the vicinity of La Joyita, near the S. border of the Joya Grant. This is a small town near which some black basaltic bluffs reach down close to the river. It is not to be confounded with the village of similar name, La Joya, a few miles further on.

[I'-23] The Black mts. of Pike's text, Sierra Obscura of his map, are in the series of ranges along the E. side of the Rio Grande, at varying but always considerable distances. These are in general but not exact continuation of the San Diaz or Sandia mts., and take, in different parts of their extent, other names, as Cerro Manzano, Cerro Montoso, etc.; the name Sierra Oscura or Black range being now restricted to a short chain between the Chupadera mesa on the N. and the San Andreas chain on the S. Though there is of course no such linear continuity of these ranges as Pike's Sierra Obscura seems to represent, yet I think Pike hit off the mountains wonderfully well, considering the stealthy circumstances under which he observed them. All through "the captivity" in New Spain he had to make his notes furtively, and then conceal them—in other words, he stole and hid away his information. His Sierra Obscura is all the better delineated by his marking certain southern portions of the chain with the names "Sierra de el Sacramento" and "Sierra de Guadelupe"—these being ranges which he was never near, if in fact he ever laid eyes on them. They are those called to-day the Sacramento and Guadalupe ranges, trending S. E. toward the Rio Pecos, down to lat. 32° or thereabouts; they are special southward extensions of the huge nest of mountains which bound for a great distance the water-shed of the Pecos, and are broken into many lesser ranges and peaks, as the White range (Sierra Blanca), the Nogal, Capitan, Carrizo, Jicarilla, etc. In perhaps no point is Pike's (qu: Humboldt's?) map clearer than where he runs his "Montagnes de Salines" N. between his Sierra Obscura on the E. and the Rio Grande on the W.; for this is the San Andreas range, which extends continuously southward from the Sierra Oscura of present geography, and whose southern portions now bear the names of the Organ and Franklin mts., ending only near El Paso. The Organ mts. were better and have been long known by the Spanish name of Sierra de los Organos, exactly as lettered by Pike. This curious name originated in the fancied resemblance of the columnar trap formations to the pipes of an organ. Wislizenus and Hughes both call them the "Organic" mts. Their fastnesses were favorite and habitual lurking-places of the Mescalero Apaches—those murderous freebooters and desperadoes who used to descend upon the peaceful pueblos and the Spanish settlements. "The Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold," and so did the Apache, not only from the Organ mts. and other parts of the San Andreas or Salinas range, but also from all the mountains above mentioned as lying further east. Observe that Pike thrice locates Apaches among these mountains, lettering "Apaches Faraone," "Apaches Mescaleros," and "Apaches Mescalorez." He also locates what he calls "Indiens Ietans"; these are the Comanches, usually given in his text as "Tetaus," who played the part of Vandals to the Goths of the Apaches—twin scourges during the whole historic period and down to our own day, under the leadership of chiefs whose characters recall the popular impressions of Attila the Hun. The only serious criticism to be passed on this part of Pike's map is the way he runs a great river in the country of his Ietans and Mescaleros, between his Sierra Obscura and his Montagnes de Salines, i.e., in the deserts E. of his San Andreas range and W. of the other mountains. But this is simply his misapprehension of such information as he had of the course of the Pecos; for his "Rio Puerto" is a mistake for Rio Puerco, and this was a long current though mistaken name of the Pecos, to be found on various maps and in different itineraries of comparatively recent dates. It is hardly necessary to add that the Pecos lies eastward of all the mountains now under consideration; there is no such river where Pike lays down his "Rio Puerto." That region is a horrid desert, where such waters as may start from the mountains on either hand soon run out by evaporation and absorption, or lose themselves in those salty sinks and alkaline wastes whence originated, in fact, the former name of "Saline" or "Salinas" mts. for the San Andreas range.

As to the "Mountains of Magdalen" of Pike's text: We observe that he maps two isolated elevations on his right, W. of the Rio Grande, respectively lettered "Sierra Magillez" and "Sierra Christopher." These clearly correspond to two of the most conspicuous elevations, Mt. Magdalen and Old Baldy, of the range which continues to be known as that of the Magdalen mts. or Sierra Magdalena. These are a short but high range directly W. of the county town Socorro, whence a branch of the railroad now runs into them to the place called Magdalena. This range rises 20 m. and more from the river; in this interval a series of lesser elevations stretches northward, taking at successive points the names of Socorro, Limitar, Polvadero, and Ladron—the two last of these being separated by the arroyo of the Rio Salado, coming to the Rio Grande from the W. in the vicinity of the Joya caÑon from the E.

The position of Pike's camp of the 12th is not easily determined, as he gives no mileage and names no place. But it was not far below Socorro, and perhaps in the close vicinity of Bosquecito. His Sierra Christopher (W. of the river) is to be carefully distinguished from what he further on calls the "mountain of the Friar Christopher," i.e., Fra Cristobal, on the E. of the river: see note²⁵, pp. 635, 636, and note³⁰, p. 639.

When Pike passed a couple of miles below Parida, on the E. side of the Rio Grande, he had to climb a steep hill close to the river. From the top of this there is a fine view to be had of various places. Nearly opposite is Socorro, on the W. bank; Limitar is visible, 6 or 8 m. higher up on that side; while about 4 m. below is the site of the ruins of Las Huertas (the Orchards). Socorro was long one of the largest and most important places on the Rio Grande. It had a population of 2,000 about the middle of this century.

[I'-24] No mileage for to-day, nor even number of hours on the march; no named point. In fact Pike's itinerary from Santa FÉ thus far hardly gives a natural feature—not even the mouth of the Rio Puerco; we have to check it as best we can by a few names of towns now nearly a century old, and not always indicating a present location, together with what we may suppose to have been ordinary days' journeys. Camp of the 13th may be set somewhere within the limits of the present Bosque del Apache Grant, a good ways below Bosquecitos and San Pedro on the E., or San JosÉ and San Antonio on the W. A view of the Bosque faces p. 499 of Abert's report. The grant named is a small triangular area whose N. base is the S. border of the Socorro Grant, whose W. side adjoins the E. border of the Armendaris Grant, and whose apex is at or near Mt. Pascal (Cerro San Pascual). Old Fort Conrad was built on the W. side of the river, nearly opposite but a little above Valverde. Valverde was inhabited during the first quarter of this century, but the inhabitants were killed or driven off by the Apaches and Navajos, and it showed nothing but its ruins in 1846, as delineated on the plate of Abert's report, facing p. 506. Writing of 1839, Gregg says, Comm. Pra. II. 1844, p. 71: "We passed the southernmost settlements of New Mexico, and 20 or 30 miles further down the river we came to the ruins of Valverde. This village was founded about 20 years ago, in one of the most fertile valleys of the Rio del Norte. It increased rapidly in population, until it was invaded by the Navajoes, when the inhabitants were obliged to abandon the place after considerable loss, and it has never since been repeopled." This locality, in a narrow, sandy valley, some 15 m. by the road above Fra Cristobal mt., used to be a point of departure in various directions from the Rio Grande, and the name occurs continually in the history of scouts on reconnoissances in this region before our Civil War; it was the general rendezvous of Doniphan's forces, preparatory to his invasion of Mexico and capture of Chihuahua; and it was the scene of a battle, for gallant and meritorious services in which action a particular friend of mine, Allen Latham Anderson, was brevetted major, Feb. 21st, 1862.

[I'-25] To-day's itinerary brings up a number of interesting and important points, not evident at first sight. Below Valverde and San Pascual mt. Pike comes to a section of the river which has made much history. Along here, above and below Valverde, within a very few miles of one another, are the sites of Fort Conrad and old Fort Craig, both on the W. bank of the river; the position of the present places known as Arny, San Marcia, and Plaza Grande on the W., with La Mesa and Contadero on the E.; the present crossing of the railroad to the Mesa Prieta, from points higher up on the W.; and below this the Rio Grande crossing known as Paraje ferry, near the place of that name on the E. But we are mainly concerned to discover Pike's "point from which the road leaves the river"; and why at this point his escort should have abandoned the main road due S., two days' journey, to take him across the river and then S. W., by a rough and roundabout way for several days till, bearing S. E., the route should strike the S. end of the direct road which had been left at its N. end. If we should imagine some dark Spanish mystery here, we should be mistaken; for Malgares simply took Pike that way to avoid the terrible Jornada del Muerto—that Macabresque march which too often proved to be literally a "journey of the dead." It is now, as it was then, the great highway directly N. and S.; but what is now bowled over at ease in a few hours by rail, was then the toilsome, perilous, and sometimes fatal journey through an awful desert. When I was in New Mexico, 30 years ago, officers and others who had made this jornada were never weary of descanting upon the terrors of that "ninety miles without, a drop of water," as it was commonly said to be. The trip is not quite so far as this, between the points where the river is usually left and regained; but it is not much less, and lives often hung upon the uncertainty whether any water could be found at a midway point known as Laguna del Muerto, or Lake of the Dead. The route of the Jornada is like the string of a bow whose arc is the Rio Grande, stretched straight up and down the desert between the river on the W. and the San Andreas range on the E., or rather between this range and those mountains on the W. of itself which close in on the E. bank of the river, cause its deflection, and render travel along its left (E.) bank difficult or impossible. Hence the crossing of the river at a point above them, to go along the right or W. bank, as Malgares did, was the alternative to the Jornada del Muerto. The mountains in mention are a barren range which begins to hug the river in the vicinity of Paraje, below Contadero, and is known as the Fra Cristobal range; this, or rather the northern end of it, is the "mountain of the Friar Christopher," of which Pike speaks. The chain continues southward (with only partial interruption, in the vicinity of Fort McRae), as the Sierra de los Caballos, or Horse range. Pike lays down ranges at three separate points, lettered "Las Pennuclas" (for Los PenÁculos, the Pinnacles), "Horse M^n." and "Death M^n."; the first of these being an elevation of the Cristobal range, probably that now called Cristobal Peak, and the second and third being parts of the Caballos range. Whatever the exact point at which the main road left the river when Pike passed, it was near if not at the same point whence the Jornada has begun for half a century at least, and which took the name Fra Cristobal from the mountain. Thus, we read in Gregg, Comm. Pra. II. 1844, pp. 71-72: "Our next camping place deserving of mention was Fray CristÓbal, which, like many others on the route, is neither town nor village, but a simple isolated point on the river-bank—a mere parage, or camping-ground ... thus being the threshold of the famous Jornada del Muerto." The words of Dr. Wislizenus on this subject are to precisely the same effect, Mem., 1848, p. 38: "This camping place is known as Fray Cristobal; but as there is neither house nor settlement here, and one may fix his camp close on or some distance from the river, the limits of Fray Cristobal are not so distinctly defined as those of a city, and generally the last camping place on or near the Rio del Norte before entering the Jornada del Muerto is understood by it." Doniphan's troops were more than three days in making the jornada: Hughes, Don. Exp., 1847, p. 95. Here the road left the river valley by a contadero, and passed on to the desert. The first lap of the jornada was 26 m. to the Laguna del Muerto, usually dry, sometimes holding water after a rain. (Pike lays this down rather too far N., as the "Lago del munto" by mistake of the engraver.) Thus when Gregg passed in 1839, "there was not even a vestige of water," l. c., p. 73. "The marshes," he continues, "said by some historians to be in the vicinity, are nowhere to be found; nothing but the firmest and dryest table land is to be seen in every direction. To procure water for our thirsty animals, it is often necessary to make a halt here, and drive them to the Ojo del Muerto (Dead Man's Spring), five or six miles to the westward, in the very heart of the mountain ridge that lay between us and the river. This region is one of the favorite resorts of the Apaches, where many a poor arriero has met with an untimely end. The route which leads to the spring winds for two or three miles down a narrow caÑon or gorge, overhung on either side by abrupt precipices, while the various clefts and crags, which project their gloomy brows over the abyss below, seem to move the murderous savage to deeds of horror and blood." The second lap of the jornada was 28 m. to a place called Perillo (qu: same as Barilla?), to be found on present maps as Point of Rocks, where water may be found in holes. The third stage was 23 m., finishing the jornada in the vicinity of Fort Selden. This total of 77 m.—easily becoming the "90" of tradition—could be made in two days, as Pike says; the usual method being to cover the distance in three marches of a night, next day, and the following night. The road itself is not bad; only the possibility or probability of 77 m. without water made it a terror. As may be seen even from the map on the railroad folder, the jornada was nearly coincident with the present line from Contadero due S.; but the track leaves the river a little higher up, and strikes it again also higher up, at Rincon. The first portion of the track runs through mal pais, as they call ground strewn with rough and gritty fragments of lava, which makes traveling bad; there is a station called Lava from this circumstance, and also a certain Lava Butte, near the station Pope. The rails continue by Crocker and Round mt. to the station Eagle, whence a road goes off W. to the Fort McRae reservation; stations further along are Cutler, Upham, and Granada, the last being near the Point of Rocks, formerly called Perillo, near where the stage station used to be; whence the run is into Rincon, at a point on the river opposite Angostura, where Pike comes along on the 17th. A camping-ground on the river, at this end of the jornada, was known as Robledo (Oaks).

[I'-26] The whole of this way is bad, being cut across by a series of arroyos or gulches making down from the San Mateo and Mimbres ranges. These mountains are a part of the general chain which Pike maps in linear continuity as one which forms the "Dividing Ridge between the Waters of Rio del Norte and those of the Gulf of California"—that is, the Continental Divide. At one point in these ranges Pike legends very conspicuously "Grand Copper Mines, worked." It is also shown on the map of Lieut.-Col. Philip St. George Cooke, of his route from the Rio Grande to the Gila, etc., in 1846-47, Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., pub. 1848; and a "view of the copper mine" forms the subject of the plate opp. p. 59 of the same volume, in Lieut. W. H. Emory's report: see also ibid., A. R. Johnston's report, pp. 577, 578 fig. The headwaters of the Rio Gila are across the divide of the Mimbres range. As the party goes down the valley of the Rio Grande, say from the Nogal arroyo or the site of the village now called San JosÉ, opposite Fra Cristobal, 6,600 feet, they have the range of the latter name on the left, or E., immediately across the river, while the San Mateo peak, 10,200 feet, towers on the N. W.

[I'-27] Before coming to his Horse mt., Pike passed several points of note. He crossed Rio Alamoso or CaÑada Alamosa near camp (unless he was already beyond it), and next Rio Cuchillo Negro. Between these two, but off on the E. side of the river, was built Fort McRae, in the southern foothills of the Fra Cristobal range (vicinity of Elephant Butte and Ojo del Muerto). There is or was a crossing of the Rio Grande from the fort, called Fest's ferry. Horse mt. of Pike is now called Caballo Cone; it rises at the N. extremity of the range of the Horse mts., usually known by the Spanish name of Sierra de los Caballos. The Mt. of the Dead is another elevation of this range, but which one is less easily determined. It was at or near the S. end of this range; see the positions of "Horse M^n." and "Dead M^n." on the map. Pike also marks a mountain close to his trail, on the W., by the name of "Rabledillo." This I take to be Cerro Cuchillo Negro, opposite Caballo Cone, between Rio Cuchillo Negro and Rio Palomo (Pigeon cr.). The latter is crossed at its mouth (Los Palomos); Rio Animas is crossed (Brent's); and several arroyos or dry washes are passed, till the party is well down on the W. side of the Horse range, within some 25 m. of where the Rio Grande will be crossed to-morrow. Camp is apparently between the mouths of Rio Perchas and Cienega Apache, which fall in near together on the W. Hillsborough, seat of Sierra Co. (which Pike entered when he left Socorro Co. on the 15th), is situated about 20 m. up Rio Perchas. Near this camp, and nearly opposite his Dead mt., Pike marks an elevation by the name of "La Ranchero," which appears to be that which approaches the Rio Grande most closely between Cienega Apache and White Water cr. In any event, this is one of the foothills of the Mimbres range, as are several others Pike maps in this vicinity. See next note.

[I'-28] Not 26 m. after crossing the river, but from last camp, from which it is about 26 m. to make the crossing. In this trip Pike turns the W. and S. flank of the Sierra de los Caballos or Horse mts., having these first E. and then N. of his route (on his left all the way). In so doing he passes from Sierra into Dona Ana Co., and goes by a number of notable points, some of which he maps. On the W. side of the river, in Dona Ana Co., at or near present Santa Barbara, was the site of old Fort Thorn and the old Indian Agency; Beck's ferry was also hereabouts. Pike sets four mountains on his right, at different distances to the W. and S. These are lettered (1) "Esterolargo," (2) "S. Jacomb," (3) "La Salmera," (4) "Piadro." These are some of the most elevated points in the rugged and irregularly broken country to the south of the Horse and Mimbres ranges; and their relative positions as mapped by Pike agree so well with those of certain well-known elevations that identifications may be attempted: (1) Esterolargo seems to correspond to the Cerro Magdalen, between Fort Selden on the E. and old Fort Cummings on the W. (2) is in the position of the Good Sight mts., about half-way between the Magdalens and Fort Cummings. A branch of the A., T., and S. F. R. R., from Rincon on the Rio Grande to Deming, runs past the Magdalens (station Sellers) and thence through the Good Sight mts. by Burr's Pass (station Nutt), between Good Sight Peak and Sunday Cone. Fort Cummings was built in that southern extension of the Mimbres range known as Cooke's range: leave railroad for the fort at Cummings station, or keep on past Coleman to Deming, etc. (3) is Cerro Robledo, on W. bank of the Rio Grande, immediately S. of Fort Selden. (4) may be intended for the Florida mts., on the boundary between Dona Ana and Grant cos., directly S. of Fort Cummings 20 and 30 m., not so far S. E. of Deming. Pike crosses the Rio Grande from W. to E., at or near where the railroad now crosses in passing between stations Hatch (Colorado) and Rincon; camp at this place or in its immediate vicinity, about opposite town of Angostura.

The practically identical language of Mar. 17th and 18th shows that Pike has duplicated an entry, and consequently that one day's march has been lost. This loss is irretrievable, so far as I can discover. Furthermore, we have no mileages for the 19th and 20th. Under these circumstances the best we can do is to march him into El Paso in three laps, set three camps ex hypothesi, and note in due order the places on the road over which we know he passed.

[I'-29] To camp at some point between Fort Selden and Dona Ana, probably not far beyond the site of the former post. The Military Reservation upon which this long noted fort was established includes a tract a few miles square on both sides of the river, between the Cerro Robledo on the S. and San Diego mt. on the N. and N. W.; eastward are some elevations known as the Dona Ana hills; the Cerro Magdalen is due W., but at a much greater distance. A few miles below Rincon and Angostura the river enters the Selden caÑon, where it is straitened between Mt. San Diego on the E. and highlands on the W.; the railroad traverses this caÑon, with the stations Tonuco near its head and Randall below; the position of the fort is between the latter and Leasburg, on the E. bank of the river. Pike's map shows a marked bend or loop of the dotted trail of the 18th, and I suppose this indicates where he went around Mt. San Diego. There used to be a place called San Diego here, about opposite the point where the old Cooke trail left the river. Dona Ana was founded on the E. bank of the river, say 60 m. by road from El Paso. This town was started in or about 1839, by settlers from El Paso, and 10 years later had a population of 300, mostly Mexicans, who required the protection of the military from the Apaches. The railroad passes by but not through the present town, which has given name to the county, though the county seat is at Las Cruces. Both of these places are included in the Dona Ana Bend Colony tract.

The Cooke trail above mentioned is that made by Lieut.-Col. Philip St. George Cooke, commanding the Mormon battalion of the Army of the West on the march from Santa FÉ, N. M., to San Diego, Cal., under the guidance of Antoine Leroux, in the autumn of 1846. It will be found very clearly traced, from the point of departure from the Rio Grande to the Pima villages on the Gila, on the sketch-map accompanying that officer's report to General Kearny, Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub 1848, pp. 549-563. It is a roundabout way which loops far S. and strikes the San Pedro several days' march above the confluence of that stream with the Gila, follows the San Pedro down a piece northward, then strikes westward to Tucson, and so on N. W. to the Gila at the Pima villages. The distance is represented to have been 544 m.

[I'-30] Fra Cristobal, that is, but to be distinguished from Pike's Sierra Christopher: see note²³, p. 633, and note²⁵, p. 635. The road which Pike thus struck was in direct continuation of the Jornada del Muerto, on the way to El Paso, and led by Las Cruces, present seat of Dona Ana Co. This has been for many years one of the best-known places on the Rio Grande between Santa FÉ and El Paso; it is located a little off the river, on the E. side. In the vicinity of Las Cruces, on the E. bank of the river, is Messilla, another well-known town. The party proceeded past Tortugas and Bosquecito, to a point somewhere beyond the site of old Fort Fillmore, and probably within the present limits of the Brazito tract. This camp might be fixed more exactly by one who could say how far short it was of a certain salt lake likely to be reached at 10 a. m. next day. The route along here, as indeed from Fort Selden, is practically coincident with that of the railroad. Brazito became the famous name of a battle-ground, after Christmas Day of 1846, when Colonel Doniphan's regiment defeated and routed a superior force of Mexicans who attacked him. A spirited account of this engagement is given by John T. Hughes, Don. Exp. 1847, pp. 96-99, including a plan of the battle-ground. The engagement lasted half an hour, about 3 p. m. The spot is given as "25 m." from El Paso, opposite a large island in the Rio Grande, and also opposite a pass between the lower end of the Organ mts. and others called the "White" mts. The Mexicans numbered about 1,300 men, of whom 71 were killed, 5 taken prisoners, and not less than 150 wounded, including their general, Ponce de Leon; the American casualty was 8 wounded—none killed.

On Pike's left as he passes stand the Organ or Organon mts., as now so called in strictness, being that southward continuation of the San Andreas range which is marked off by a gap from the rest of the chain. This gap is the San Augustin Pass; place there called Organ, 15 m. E. by N. from Dona Ana. Pike charts these mountains: see note²³, p. 631. They run about S., and as the river is here bearing S. S. E., the two approach within 10 to 5 m. in the vicinity of the place where Fort Fillmore stood. Pike's "Sierra de la Cola," as laid down close to the river, but due E. of El Paso, appears to correspond with what is now known as the Franklin range, around which the river finally turns E. to escape from all confinement. Along the Rio Grande itself his map marks nothing whatever from the vicinity of Fort Selden to El Paso. But we are now approaching some of the most important points of the whole route.

[I'-31] In the vicinity of Montoyo, Tex., in the extreme W. corner of the State. Passing successively Mesquite, Herron, and Lyndon, on the railroad, with San Miguel (Baca Grant), La Mesa, and Chamberino in succession on the other side of the river, Pike comes to the station Anthony and the parallel of 32° N.; on crossing which he goes from Dona Ana Co., N. M., into El Paso Co., Tex., as he proceeds down the left or E. bank of the river; had he been on the other side he would have remained in New Mexico until he entered present Chihuahua at lat. 31° 47´ N. For the course of the Rio Grande itself makes the irregular boundary of Texas for 15 or 20 m., from the point where the parallel of 32° N. strikes the river from the E., to that where the parallel of 31° 47´ N. leaves the river on the W. This break or fault (as a miner would say of a lead that acted so) of the straight border between Texas and New Mexico, where the boundary slips 13´ S. down the Rio Grande, is one of the politico-geographical curiosities of the situation, which would only be fully understood upon mastering the complicated history of the U. S. and Mexican Boundary Survey in all the bitterness of its personal episodes. Some of these points are considered in the following note. From lat. 31° 47´ N. on the Rio Grande, in the immediate vicinity of El Paso, Tex., and of El Paso del Norte (Ciudad Juarez), in Chihuahua, the river forms the boundary between the United States and the Republic of Mexico—that is, between Texas and the Mexican States of Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo Leon, and Tamaulipas—on a circuitous but in general S. E. course to the Gulf of Mexico.

[I'-32] The celebrated place to which our friend has thus been conducted by his friends, the enemy, must not be confounded with our little town of El Paso, Tex. This grew up yesterday, so to speak; that dates from about 1680, as a Spanish settlement begun after the great Pueblo revolt, when Governor Otermin's people were driven out of Santa FÉ. Before Pike was welcomed by the civil and ecclesiastical dignitaries of El Paso del Norte, he crossed the great river, and thus passed from the State of Texas into that of Chihuahua, as these are now bounded. He would have said that he simply went across the river which flows in the province of North or New Mexico of the kingdom of New Spain, and had not yet reached the province of New Biscay. But aside from any of the political affairs which spoil the complexion of the maps, El Paso is one of the most remarkable positions in North America, unique in some respects. With regard to the tide of emigration which set westward by southern lines of travel to the California of the forty-niners, it is comparable with that place by which, from time immemorial, the nations have passed from Asia into Europe, along what has been fitly styled the "highway of the world." But El Paso is not only a half-way house from the Gulf of Mexico to that of California; it is the continental cross-roads. For the ebb and flow of human tides set with conflicting currents, north and south, long before the first page of American history was traced, and will continue forever in motion by El Paso. There is the turning-point of that great river which was Rio del Norte above this pass, and Rio Grande or Rio Bravo below. "El Paso" is certainly, as it always has been, the place of fording or crossing the river—Gregg says it was called by Americans "The Pass," and speaks of "Pass wine" and "Pass whiskey," as they named the liquors made there—but that is not the implication of the name. "El Paso" is the mountain-pass—el paso del Rio del Norte—the place where the river passes from the mountains to the plains. We have traced it from Pike's stockade on the Conejos, in the San Luis valley, almost due S., in an immense trough of several hundred miles' length, during the whole of which distance it has been seen to be closely confined to its mountain bed, hemmed in on the W. by the continental divide or its several outliers, on the E. by successive ranges of not less dignity and importance. In all this course it receives no more than mere creeks from the eastern side; while from the W. its tributaries are comparatively few and small rivers. But at El Paso the river turns out of bed, so to say, with hardly a figure of speech, to go all abroad in the open country, drawing to itself large tributaries on its way to the sea. Yet it has another strait-jacketing to suffer in forcing its way through the last mountains that rise to obstruct its course. The struggle begins near the entrance of the Rio Conchas and in the vicinity of Presidio del Norte, one of the oldest establishments in northern Mexico; it continues for many miles through a series of caÑons in the Bofecillos, San Carlos, and other mountains. During this passage the river makes a sharp elbow from S. E. northward, and then with a bold sweep recovers its former course; it receives its tribute from the Pecos, its largest branch; then, freed from its last fetters and augmented in force, the Rio Grande winds its way to the Gulf, having well won the title "Bravo." Such action is the more to be applauded if we remember that above the caÑon-formations the river sometimes sinks exhausted into the ground, and its bed may become for many miles a wagon-road. The great flexures of the river lie within about a degree of latitude (29° to 30° N.), and the series of caÑons is between the 102d and 105th meridians. Major Emory speaks of that great bend of the river as "one of the most remarkable features on the face of the globe—that of a river traversing at an oblique angle a chain of lofty mountains, and making through these, on a gigantic scale, what is called in Spanish America a caÑon—that is, a river hemmed in by vertical walls," U. S. and Mex. B. Surv. I. 1857, p. 42. With due deference, and no desire to derogate from the dignity, either of the Rio Grande or of its caÑonation, I do not see that we have not several parallel cases in this country, some of which are on a scale of not inferior magnitude. The essential features of the case are those of a great river which has once left its bed in mountains about its origin, traversed open country, and then forced its way through caÑon-formation in another range or spur. The Arkansaw, heading in the continental divide, breaks out upon the plain at CaÑon City, through a chasm in another range. The South Platte traverses South Park, and the North Platte, North Park, to seek the plains through other mountains than those in which they respectively head. The Yellowstone has its upper caÑon and then comes out at Livingston through a lower one. The Missouri itself leaves its sources far remote from the range through which it finally makes its exit from Lewis and Clark's Gates of the Rocky Mountains. And just think of the Columbia!

Pike has nothing to say of any place on the Rio Grande opposite the Mexican town of El Paso, at or near where El Paso stands in Texas. But the valley has been settled and cultivated from remote antiquity, and the clustering of the population at various points gave rise to towns or pueblos, all of which, of course, had names, though several of these have lapsed forever. Maps now nearly half a century old mark on the Texan side several places by the names of Frontera, La Frontera, or Las Fronteras; Isleta, a TaÑoan pueblo (in what is now Texas—distinguish from the other TaÑoan pueblo, Isleta, in New Mexico); Socorro; San Elceario, or Elizario; also, Franklin and Fort Bliss—all these before there was any El Paso in Texas. Present maps show, below Montoyo, Santa Teresa, Frontera, El Paso, Isleta, San Elizario, and so on down the river along the railroad. As to the germ of the American town of El Paso, we find that Captain S. G. French, in 1849, came up the Rio Grande "to the intersection of the Santa FÉ road at the rancho opposite El Paso"; and again: "El Paso is wholly situated in Mexico—there being, excepting the three villages on the island [San Elizario, Socorro, Isleta], but three houses on the American side." French's mileages by odometer in coming up the river on the Texan side, are: San Elizario to Socorro, 5.45 m.; Socorro to Isleta, 3.10; Isleta to Upper Ford, 7.05; Upper Ford to Coon's Hacienda, 7.09; total, 22.69, or 22? m. from San Elizario to where the Santa FÉ road came to the river to cross to El Paso, Mex. (Reports of Reconn., etc., 8vo, Washington, 1850, p. 53—not a book very easy to find.) A table of distances in the reverse direction and bringing in two more of the above names, is furnished by Major Emory, U. S. and M. B. S., I. 1857, p. 135: Franklin (opposite El Paso) to Fort Bliss, 2 m.; Fort Bliss to Isleta, 12.14; Isleta to Socorro, 3.10; Socorro to San Elceario, 5.45; total, 22.69, or 22? m., as before. If these were independent measurements, the odometers must have been good, as well as the road; but I cite them both to show that Coon's Hacienda, Franklin, and El Paso, Tex., were the same place, opposite El Paso, Mex., and that Fort Bliss was built 2 m. lower down. Writing of the early fifties, Emory also states, op. cit., p. 91: "From San Elceario up to El Paso, a distance by the sinuosities of the river of 30 miles, but by air-line of only 20 miles, is almost one continuous settlement of Mexicans and Pueblo Indians, with here and there an American farmer and trader." His estimates of the population all along, from El Paso, Mex., to San Elceario, are: El Paso (including the very ancient TaÑoan pueblo of Sinecu, supposed to have been built before the Spaniards came), 4,000; Franklin (present El Paso, Tex.), 200; Socorro, 300; San Elceario, 1,200; with 1,300 at places still further down, making a total of 7,000. Isleta does not figure in this census. This population was mostly mixed, with little pure Spanish, or Indian either. The commercial importance of El Paso as a port of entry may be inferred from Emory's statement that, before the ports on the lower Rio Bravo were opened, for some years as much as $2,000,000 worth of goods passed into Mexico this way; figures supposed to have been reduced more than one-half at the time of which he wrote. He describes the town of El Paso, Mex., as "one extended vineyard in the hands of many proprietors." The little town of Frontera, above mentioned, acquired some consequence in 1852 from the erection there in 1851 of one of the astronomical stations at which Major Emory, U. S. Commissioner, and Don JosÉ Salazar y Larregui, Comisionado Mexicano, determined the initial point of the boundary W. of the Rio Grande along the par. of 31° 47´ N. The position of Frontera, as decided and agreed upon by the Joint Commission, was lat. 31° 48´ 44.31´´ N., long. 106° 33´ 04.5´´ W. That of El Paso, Mex., or more exactly, of the cathedral in that place, was lat. 31° 44´ 15.7´´ N., long. 166° 29´ 05.4´´ W. Frontera was thus about 4 minutes N. and W. of El Paso, and the boundary started W. between these two places at a point 3.41 m. about N. W. of El Paso, and 2.70 m. about S. E. of Frontera; the total distance between these two places being 6.11 m. As the Rio Grande itself was the natural boundary agreed upon from the Gulf of Mexico to the point where the river should intersect the parallel of 31° 47´, the various questions that were to be determined concerned only the boundary thence W. across country to the Gulf of California and so on to the Pacific. Two different boundaries were in diplomatic agreement for some years before either of them was ascertained on the ground. These were those provided for by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Feb. 2d, 1848, ratified Aug., 1848, and by the Gadsden treaty of Dec. 30th, 1853, ratified June 30th, 1854. Under the former of these, two abortive attempts were made to establish two different lines W. of the Rio Grande; and it was fortunate for us that neither of them succeeded. The old treaty was made in the dark, on our part at least, being based upon the ignorance of geography which Disturnell's map displayed in 1847. The old treaty line started on paper from the Rio Grande at a point some miles above Frontera, went W. on a certain parallel of latitude, hypothetical on the ground, for about 180 m., through the Chiricahua mts., and then turned due N. along a never-determined meridian till it struck Rio Gila, which was thence the boundary W. to the Rio Colorado. The line agreed upon by U. S. Commissioner John B. Weller and General Conde, the Comisionado Mexicano, started W. from the Rio Grande at a point in the vicinity of Dona Ana, ran along a parallel for the same distance as the other, and then turned N. on a meridian to the Gila, striking the latter at a point further down that river—further N. W., that is, owing to the difference of longitude of the initial point on the Rio Grande. Both of these were paper-lines, assumed when the two governments were feeling for S. and W. borders of New Mexico as laid down on Disturnell's map; for Article V. of the G. H. '48 treaty provided that from the intersection of the Rio Grande with the S. border of New Mexico (wherever that might be) the line should run W. along the whole S. border of New Mexico, and then turn N. along the W. border of the same to the Gila. This was decidedly a case of obscurum per obscurius, so far as laying down an actual line was concerned, for nobody knew where the S. and W. borders of New Mexico were, within several minutes of latitude and longitude. The Weller-Conde line above noted started from the Rio Grande at lat. 32° 22´, near Dona Ana, and went due W. upon an assumed S. boundary of N. M. In 1851 such an initial point had been agreed upon; a monument erected; and actual survey begun by Col. J. D. Graham. The other assumed S. boundary of N. M., along which a line was projected W. of the Rio Grande from an initial point in the vicinity of Frontera, was very near 31° 47´. Both luckily failed to go into effect. Such a comedy of errors, beginning on a false basis, was conducted through a tissue of blunders to an inevitable and fortunate fiasco. The work of the old boundary survey was prosecuted under a series of commissioners—John B. Weller; John C. FrÉmont, who accepted the appointment, but never got on the ground, and did nothing but resign; John R. Bartlett; and Robert B. Campbell. It wound up in 1853 as an ignominious and acrimonious failure, for which net result Congress had appropriated $787,112. This was expensive, but profitable in the end; for the event proved that a different boundary would come cheap at that or almost any other price. Almost down to 1848, the topography of the country between the Rio Grande and the Colorado of the West was practically unknown to Americans. But adventurers, traders, and emigrants had begun to set their faces toward the west along our borders; and the question of the most practicable southern route became one of great and growing importance. The War Department put exploring parties in the field; and through the labors of such officers as Emory, Abert, Parke, Marcy, Sitgreaves, Simpson, Whipple, Michler, J. E. Johnston, S. G. French, W. F. Smith, F. T. Bryan, and others, new light was thrown upon a vast region, to much of which El Paso was the key. Among other things, Emory developed the fact that there could be no thoroughfare through U. S. territory in the vicinity of 32° N., the country being practically impassable by any means of transportation then available along the parallel of 32°, N. of the projected boundary. The G. H. treaty '48, to use Emory's words, "fixed a line north of that parallel which cut off entirely the communication by wagons between the rivers [Rios Grande and Gila]; and leaving out of view the considerations involved in securing railway routes to the Pacific, it was a line which sooner or later must have been abandoned. No traveller could pass, nor could a dispatch be sent, from a military post on the Rio Bravo to one on the Gila, without passing through Mexican territory." Our Mexican neighbors evidently knew their country, as well as what they were about, much better than we did, until we learned to our cost what the matter was. The already notorious errors of the Disturnell map made any adjustment of the difficulty on that basis impossible, and some different understanding between the two countries became an obvious necessity. This was effected by the Gadsden treaty of 1853, which provided for the reconstruction of the international line on paper, and its determination on the ground. By the provisions of this agreement, the line was to run up the Rio Grande, as already defined by the G. H. treaty '48, to the point where the middle of the river should intersect the parallel of 31° 47´ N.; thence due W. 100 m.; thence due S. to the parallel of 31° 20´ N.; thence due W. to the meridian of 111° W.; thence in a straight line to a point on the Colorado r. 20 English miles below the confluence of the Gila; thence up the Colorado r. to the intersection of the already existing U. S. and Mexican line across California to the Pacific. The concessions represented by these terms were all-important to us; they not only secured the required practicable highway from the Rio Grande to the Gila, but added 26,185 sq. m. to U. S. territory, as was discovered when the line was run. This tract lies between the parallels of 31° 20´ and 33° 30´ N., and between the meridians of 106° 30´ and 114° W.; it may be called, in a phrase, so much of the U. S. as lies S. of the Gila, in New Mexico and mainly in Arizona. William Hensley Emory was commissioned by President Pierce, Aug. 4th, '54, to carry out the provisions of the treaty on the part of the U. S., and Don JosÉ Salazar y Larregui was appointed to the same official functions on the part of Mexico. Major Emory was required to meet the Mexican commissioner at El Paso by Oct. 1st, 1854, and the commission took the field without delay. Congress appropriated $168,130, Aug. 14th, '54, and $71,450, Mar. 3d, '55; total, $239,580, for running and marking the line. When the work had been done, Jan. 1st, 1856, Major Emory reported an unexpended balance of $98,454.59. He had also to turn in, as unexpended balance of certain appropriations for the old commission (altogether $58,100), the sum of $37,345.53; total to his credit, $135,800.12, remaining of the sum of $239,580 + $58,100 = $297,680, of which he had the disbursement and was responsible. It thus appears that his whole work cost the government only $161,879.87; it was finished within the time estimated by the government for its completion, and largely within the amounts appropriated for the purpose. The boundary run by Emory and Salazar, respectively, agreed upon by them jointly, and accepted by both governments, is at present in effect. It starts from the Rio Grande between El Paso and Frontera, at 31° 47´, and runs W. on that parallel 100 m., to a certain spot commonly referred to by the name of Carrizalillo, as that of the nearest named locality; thence it drops meridionally to the parallel of 31° 20´, at a nameless place in the mountains; thence it runs due W. to the intersection of the 111th meridian at a well-known place, Los Nogales; whence it runs obliquely to the Colorado r., at a point which is (roundly) 20 m. S. of Fort Yuma by the channel of the river—Yuma being on the W. bank, and practically opposite the mouth of the Gila. Aside from any question of the 25,185 sq. m. and the desirable right of way thus secured, under the provisions of the Gadsden treaty, the abrogation of the 11th article of the G. H. treaty was all-important to the U. S. "This article," to use Major Emory's words, "made it incumbent on the United States to keep the Indians living within our own territory from committing depredations on the Mexicans, and by implication imposed on the United States the obligation of indemnity for all losses resulting from failure to carry out the provisions of the treaty. No amount of force could have kept the Indians from crossing the line to commit depredations, and I think that one hundred millions would not pay the damages they have inflicted. Whole sections of country have been depopulated and the stock driven off and killed; and in entire States the ranches have been deserted and the people driven into the towns. It is true, all this has not been done since the war [with Mexico], and would form no just claim against the United States; but those conversant with the history of Mexican claims will at once admit that the United States would have been fortunate if she could have escaped with paying real claims for depredations, whether committed before or after the war. I should not be true to history if I did not state what is within my own personal knowledge—that companies were formed, and others forming, composed of persons of wealth, influence, and adroitness, who projected extensive schemes for the purchase of these claims, with the view of extorting them from the Congress of the United States." Not the least admirable feature of the present treaty, and one which was of equal moment to all respectable citizens of both countries, was the fullness of the powers it vested in the two commissioners. For Art. I. has: "That line shall be alone established upon which the commissioners may fix, their consent in this particular being considered decisive and an integral part of this treaty, without necessity of ulterior ratification or approval, and without room for interpretation of any kind by either of the parties contracting." This kept the dirty hands of professional politicians out of the affair, and left it to be settled by two honorable and able men, free to act at their best judgment and discretion, besides being competent to the requisite scientific work in astronomy and geodesy. The joint commission, in session on the spot, agreed upon the initial point of 31° 47´ N. on the W. bank of the Rio Grande, Jan. 10th, 1855; they marked it and agreed to erect the monument there. The corner-stone was laid Jan. 31st, in the presence of each other and of various civil and military dignitaries. The commissioners reconvened at Fort Bliss, Aug. 14th-16th, 1855, to consider the operations which had meanwhile been carried on by themselves and their respective assistants; whereupon they agreed to declare and did declare the line surveyed, marked, and established as far W. as the 111th meridian, and from the 111th meridian to the Colorado r.; they further agreed, etc., that the whole of the line should be declared fully established, etc., and the field-work concluded, whenever each should notify the other that certain topographical work then in progress had been completed by Lieutenant Michler and SeÑor Jimenez; whereupon, having no further business, the commission adjourned to meet in Washington, D. C., Apr. 1st, 1856. The required notifications were exchanged Oct. 15th and Dec. 18th, 1855. The work had been done, and subsequent proceedings were only in the nature of formalities between the two governments. My authority for the facts embodied in this note is of course the U. S. and M. B. S. Report unless otherwise stated. I have been led into this sketch of affairs of 40 years ago, partly by their intrinsic interest, but mainly because they show the state of things at a period of time equidistant between Pike's and the present day.

[II'-1] The difficulty of trailing Pike in Mexico is twofold. His notes, hasty and stealthy under the circumstances, are necessarily meager, and rather excite than satisfy our curiosity to know more. Worse than this, all the maps of Mexico are poor. I have probably before me the best maps that exist; they do not compare with those we have used for most parts of Pike's route. The most helpful one I have found is that in Senate Misc. Doc. No. 26, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., accompanying a Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico, connected with Col. Doniphan's Expedition, in 1846 and 1847, by A. Wislizenus, M. D., Washington, Tippin and Streeper, 1848, 8vo, pp. 141. The author was a German scientist, interested in geography, geology, and botany. He went over much of the identical route which Pike traveled,—as far as Parras, near Saltillo,—and has left a luminous itinerary, for the publication of which we are indebted to the good sense of Thomas H. Benton. This I shall draw heavily upon, and wish to make my grateful compliments to its author in the beginning of this route.

The Fort "Elisiaira" which Pike has just left must not be confounded with the place on the river called Elizario, Eleazario, Elceario, etc., and described in my last note. He is starting S., on the main road, and the place where the gambling dovetailed so well with religion was the Presidio San Elizario, on the boundary between the then Provinces of North Mexico and New Biscay. Two roads led from El Paso to Carrizal, the principal place en route to Chihuahua. One of these went down the Rio Grande for several miles before it turned S. from that river, taking this roundabout way to avoid Los Medanos (the Sand Hills, of which more presently). The other, which Pike took, went directly S., approximately by the way the railroad goes now. To the right is a range of mountains; the valley of the Rio Grande recedes to the left; the way is over a sandy, shrubby plain, in some places so strewn with a kind of white limestone as to have given the name Tierra Blanca. Camp is at the place which Pike calls by the extraordinary term of "Ogo mall a Ukap" and charts as "Ojo Malalka." Both these terms are otherwise rendered Ojo de Malayuque and Samalayuca; and all these, with others I could cite, are forms of the name of the same spring or pool which was a usual first camp out from El Paso. It was in most seasons a necessary halt, on account of water in this long arid stretch, as well as a desirable one to make before encountering the Sand Hills. Pike charts two other bodies of water, off the road to the right or W., by the names of "Lago de la Condelaria" and "Lac de Susma"; there are several such, in fact, known as Palomas, Guzman, Durazno, Santa Maria, etc. Guzman is the same word as Pike's "Susma," and a personal name very well known indeed in Mexican history; but whether the same lake is another question. Candelaria is the present name of a station on the railroad below Los Medanos.

[II'-2] Pike gives us nothing from Samalayuca to Carrizal, and we must fill the lacuna from other sources of information. The way grows gradually hillier and sandier, till it becomes all hills and sands. These are Los Medanos, dreaded for the difficulty of hauling loaded wagons through them, though not so bad on horseback or with pack-mules. Gregg describes the entourage, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. 79, as "a stupendous ledge of sand-hills, across which the road passes for about six miles. As teams are never able to haul the loaded wagons over this region of loose sand, we engaged an atajo of mules at El Paso, upon which to convey our goods across. These MÉdanos consist of huge hillocks and ridges of pure sand, in many places without a vestige of vegetation. Through the lowest gaps between the hills the road winds its way." This description calls to mind the Medano or Sand Hill Pass: see note³⁹, p. 491. Wislizenus is even more vivid, Mem. p. 44: "Having arrived at the foot of the sand hills, we commenced travelling very slow. There was nothing around us but the deepest and purest sand, and the animals could only get along in the slowest walk, and by resting at short intervals. At last my animals were exhausted; they would move no more, and we had not yet reached half of our way. In this dilemma I put my own riding-horse to the wagon. Mr. Jacquez lent me some additional mules, and forward we moved again. In the meanwhile dark night had come on, illuminated only by lightning, that showed us for a while the most appalling night-scene—our wagons moving along as slow and solemn as a funeral procession; ghastly riders on horseback, wrapped in blankets or cloaks; some tired travellers stretched out on the sand, others walking ahead, and tracing the road with the fire of their cigarritos; and the deepest silence, interrupted only by the yelling exclamations of the drivers, and the rolling of distant thunder. The scene was impressive enough to be remembered by me: but I made a vow the same night, that whenever I should undertake this trip again, I would rather go three days around, than travel once more over the sand hills with a wagon. About midnight, at last we reached the southern end of the sand hills, and encamped without water."

This bad place was about 6 m. Beyond it, some 15 (?) m., is a fine spring of water a few yards to the left, called Ojo Lucero or Venus' spring. A place on the railroad in this vicinity is named Rancheria. Further on is seen, at some distance to the right of the road, a square mound 20 feet high, with a warm spring on its level top. Beyond this, on the left, is Laguna de Patos, or Duck l., a considerable body of water, which is the sink of the Rio Carmen. The other road from El Paso to Carrizal joins the main road in this vicinity. San JosÉ is a place on the railroad, opposite this lake. Off to the right, in the mountain chain above mentioned, rises a conspicuous picacho. Carrizal is a small town, like most places in Mexico (pop. 300 or 400 in 1839), but for some time supported a presidio or garrison as a protection from Indians, and was also walled in; but neither of these defenses seems to have troubled the Apaches much. Turning to Pike's map, we find he marks "Presidio de Carracal" on a branch of a large "Rio de Carracal," which he runs N. E. into the Rio Grande. But this is the Carmen r. just said, which runs into Duck l. not far from where Pike makes it head, and probably never reaches the Rio Grande. Yet it is liable to freshets and may greatly overflow its usual limits. Gregg struck one when he passed this way in 1839 and describes it, l. c.: "Just as we passed Lake Patos, we were struck with astonishment at finding the road ahead of us literally overflowed by an immense body of water, with a brisk current, as if some great river had suddenly been conjured into existence by the aid of supernatural arts. A considerable time elapsed before we could unravel the mystery. At last we discovered that a freshet had lately occurred in the streams that fed Lake Patos and caused it to overflow its banks, which accounted for this unwelcome visitation. We had to flounder through the mud and water for several hours before we succeeded in getting across." The spring which Pike marks "Ojo de Lotario" (Lothario) is that above named as Lucifer or Venus; and the hill delineated close by it is probably intended for the mound above said. He marks the road which leads from Carrizal to Sonora "Camino a Senora."

[II'-3] Pike's "little fosse" is no doubt the acequia below Carrizal. Ojo Caliente is present name of a station on the railroad between Carmen station and Las Minas; and the warm springs where Pike camps are those at or near Alamo de PeÑa, 10-12 m. below Carrizal, a mile short of the crossing of Rio Carmen. Gregg and Wislizenus both describe the springs in similar terms, as forming a large basin of clear, pure, lukewarm water in porphyritic rocks, with a sandy bottom, fed from various sources, and overrunning in a rivulet into the Carmen. "It forms," says Gregg, Com. Pra., II. p. 80, "a basin some 30 feet long by about half that width, and just deep and warm enough for a most delightful bath at all seasons of the year. Were this spring ... anywhere within the United States it would doubtless soon be converted into a place of fashionable resort." Wislizenus determined a temperature of 82° F., the air being 84½° F. Hughes in Doniphan's Exp., p. 108, also describes the spring and states that it was formerly the seat of a princely hacienda, "belonging to Porus, a Spanish nabob," who at one time had on his estate 36,000 head of stock.

[II'-4] A long, hard march over a plain waterless except in rainy weather, and a dry camp; for though Pike is past the place he marks "Les Coquillas," he stops short of the Ojo de Callejon.

[II'-5] This spring is found on various maps by the names of "Gallejo," "Gallego," etc., also applied to a station on the railroad. Hughes gives the word as "Guyagas." I suppose the proper name to be Ojo de Callejon, which might be translated Pass spring—for the mountains on each side of the road here close in somewhat, leaving a pass or puerta between them. Otherwise, the word is callejo or calleyo, meaning pitfall. This spring is off to the left, and sometimes discharges water enough to make a rivulet, which crosses the road. One of the other two springs which Pike speaks of passing is no doubt that known as Callejito.

[II'-6] The text does not agree with the map, for on the latter a "Camino a Senora" (road to Sonora) is brought into an unnamed "Ojo" which Pike has already passed. There may have been more than one such road. In any event, the spring which Pike passes on the 31st is that marked on his map "Aqas nueva," i.e., Aguas Nuevas or Agua Nueva. A station on the railroad has the latter name.

[II'-7] The hiatus in the text is to be filled by El PeÑol or Hacienda del Petrero; Pike marks "Delpetrero" on his map, the last place he notes before reaching Chihuahua. Neither of those names appears on the late maps before me, but both were formerly employed for the well-known locality. Wislizenus maps El PeÑol, where he camped Aug. 22d, 1846, and speaks of the place as a large hacienda, 28 m. from his last camp (probably the same as Pike's of the 30th) and about 40 m. from Chihuahua. "The creek of the same name passing by the hacienda is the principal affluent of the lake of Encinillas; by the rains it was swelled to a torrent, and its roaring waves, rushing over all obstacles, sounded in the stillness of night like a cataract." Pike has not a word of this lake, though it is usually a conspicuous feature of the great plain he has just traversed, to the W. of the road. He maps it, quite small, by the name of "Lago de S^n. Martin." Laguna de las Encinillas, in English Lake of Live Oaks, is a body of water whose extent varies greatly according to season and the weather, being sometimes 15 or 20 m. long, though usually less than this; Wislizenus estimated its length when he saw it to be 15 m., with a width of 3 m. on an average. Gregg says, tom. cit., p. 81: "This lake is ten or twelve miles long by two or three in width, and seems to have no outlet during the greatest freshets, though fed by several small constant-flowing streams from the surrounding mountains. The water of this lake during the dry season is so strongly impregnated with nauseous and bitter salts as to render it wholly unpalatable to man and beast. The most predominant of these noxious substances is a species of alkali, known there by the title of tequesquite. It is often seen oozing out from the surface of marshy grounds, about the table plains of all Northern Mexico, forming a grayish crust, and is extensively used in the manufacture of soap, and sometimes by the bakers even for raising bread."

[II'-8] As Pike has not a word of the route from El PeÑol to Chihuahua, we may supply the omission from other sources. The approach to the capital presented then, as it does now, a number of both artificial and natural features. There were several settlements, as, for instance, Encinillas at the S. end of the lake, and Sauz beyond this. Both of these are places to be found marked by the same names now; the railroad runs through them. Further on, the road crossed the Arroyo Seco, usually a dry gulch, as its name says, but sometimes a creek not easily crossed, owing to depth of water. It flows eastward to fall into the Sacramento a few miles below. About 3 m. beyond this arroyo is the valley of the Sacramento, memorable since the battle which was won by the Americans under Colonel Doniphan on Sunday the 28th of February, 1847. Says Wislizenus, Mem. p. 47: "The mountains above the Sacramento approach each other from the east and west, and narrow the intermediate plain to the width of about six miles; and on the Sacramento itself, where new spurs of mountains project, to about 3 miles. The road from the Arroyo Seco to the Sacramento leads at first over a high plain; but as soon as the Sacramento comes in sight, it descends abruptly to its valley and to the left bank of the creek. Near where the road begins to descend, a ravine, with an opposite long hill, runs to the left or east of it, and a level plain spreads out to the right or west of it. On the hill towards the east was a continuous line of batteries and intrenchments, and the principal force of the Mexican army was there collected. On the opposite plain from the west, the American troops, who had above the Arroyo Seco already turned to the right to gain a more favorable position, advanced in open field against their entrenched and far more numerous enemies. How the American artillery with the first opening of their fire struck terror into the Mexican ranks; how the brave Missourians then, on horseback and on foot, acted by one impulse, rushed through the ravine up to the cannon's mouth, and, overthrowing and killing everything before them, took one battery after the other, till the whole line of entrenchments was in their possession and the enemy put to complete flight; how they crossed from here to the Sacramento and stormed on its right bank the last fortified position, on a steep hill, till not a Mexican was left to oppose them, and all their cannon, ammunition, and trains were abandoned to the victors—these are facts well known in the history of that campaign, and will immortalize the brave volunteers of Missouri." A full account of the battle is given by the historian of Doniphan's Expedition, p. 110 seq., with a plan of the ground. The U. S. forces were 924 all told, with 6 pieces of artillery; their loss was 1 killed and 11 wounded, 3 mortally. The Americans had 140 additional men, teamsters and others, raising the total to 1,164. Of the 924, 117 were of the artillery, 93 were of an escort, and the remainder of the 1st Regt. Missouri mounted volunteers. The Mexicans had 4,224 men, and 16 pieces of artillery; their loss was 320 killed, 560 wounded, 72 prisoners. Hughes' article cited includes Colonel Doniphan's official report.

The Sacramento is the stream upon two small tributaries of which Chihuahua is situated, at their junction, about 20 m. from the scene described. The river is usually fordable. The road leads over a level plain, which widens somewhat southward, down the valley of the river, with steep, rough mountains on either hand. The capital first comes in sight about 10 m. off, in a sort of pocket where the mountains come together from each side, as if to close up the valley below; but there is an outlet to the E. through which the Sacramento r. runs to join the Rio Conchos.

[II'-9] B. Bucks Co., Pa., Jan. 24th, 1754, of Quaker parentage (his father was one of those who had land on the Patapsco, and founded Ellicott's Mills, now Ellicott City, near Baltimore, Md., 1774); became a distinguished astronomer, surveyor, and civil engineer, and died professor of mathematics at West Point, N. Y., Aug. 29th, 1820. He did an immense amount of surveying and boundary-running, mostly of important and official public character, in New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, and elsewhere; in 1790, was directed by Washington to lay out the city of that name; in 1792 became surveyor-general of the U. S.; and in 1796 was appointed by Washington U. S. Commissioner under the treaty of San Lorenzo el Real, to run the southern boundary between the U. S. and New Spain. This is the work to which Pike alludes, though he is a little out in his dates, as witness the following title: The Journal of Andrew Ellicott, late Commissioner on behalf of the United States during part of the year 1796, the years 1797, 1798, 1799, and part of the year 1800: for determining the boundary between the United States and the possessions of his Catholic Majesty in America, containing, ... etc., Philada., Budd and Bartram, 1803, 1 vol. 4to, pp. i-viii, 1-299, with 6 maps, and Appendix, pp. 1-151, 1 leaf errata, and 8 more maps. Ellicott wrote this book, excepting the Appendix, at Lancaster, Pa., June to Nov., 1802; and while he was there in 1803 he coached Captain Meriwether Lewis in the use of astronomical instruments: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. xxii and p. xxiv. Going down the Ohio to the scene of his official functions, Dec. 17th, 1796, Ellicott says, p. 21: "I passed the mouth of the Tennesee, and in two hours afterwards arrived at Fort Massac, and was politely received by the commandant Captain Pike," etc. This was Zebulon Pike, father of Zebulon M.: see the Memoir , anteÀ. The fort stood on the N. (right) bank, about lat. 37° 14´; early F. history obscure and not all of it authentic; site supposed to have been first occupied ca. 1711: see Beck's Gaz., 1823, p. 114, and John Reynolds' Own Times, 2d. ed. p. 16, with description of the place as it was in 1855. In descending the Ohio in 1758 the F. officer Aubry halted on the N. bank, at the old site, called 36 m. above the mouth of the river, to build a new post, which was garrisoned with 100 men and called Fort Marsiac after the first commandant. Thus the name is not Massac, as usually said, and still less is it derived from the apocryphal massacre which various historians have exploited. This fort was the last establishment of the F. on the Ohio, being kept up till they evacuated the country under the Treaty of Paris, 1763; it was a U. S. post till after the war of 1812-14, and during our occupancy became known as the old Cherokee fort. Pike alludes in the present work to a certain Nolan, who is easy to identify, but not to find out much about. Ellicott met him at the mouth of the Ohio, in Jan., 1797: "Mr. Philip Nolan, so well known for his athletic exertions, and dexterity in taking wild horses, stopped at our camp on his way from New Madrid to fort Massac," says this author, p. 29, with a footnote stating that Nolan "was killed by the Spaniards in the spring of 1801," after taking a very active part in various disturbances in that quarter. Ellicott passed down the Miss. r., past the Chickasaw bluffs (L. and C., ed. 1893, p. xl. and p. lii), and at Natchez encountered a bigger bluff in the shape of an individual who described himself in his pronunciamentos as his Excellency Francis Lewis Hector, Baron de Carondelet, Knight of the Order of Malta, Major General of his Armies, Commandant General of Louisiana and West Florida, Inspector of the Troops, Militia, etc., etc., etc. (though what his triplicate etceteras were is not given to ordinary mortals to know). This climacteric functionary was supported by a lesser luminary who filled the rÔle of Don Manuel Gayoso de Lemas, Brigadier of the Royal Armies, Governor of Natchez and its dependencies, with three-ply etceteras as before (though he was dead before Aug., 1799). These two formidable obstructions to navigation, as an engineer might say, were not overcome by our surveyor-general for nearly a year, during which period they kept him busy with Spanish diplomacy. As I read the correspondence it seems to have largely consisted in saying they hoped God would bless and keep him forever, when they really hoped the devil would fly away with him before breakfast; and he had to silence both the caterwauling choristers before he could proceed with his scientific work. This he was free to do on the Spanish evacuation of the forts at Natchez and Nogales (Walnut Hills) in Jan., 1798.

[II'-10] This paper was given in full in the App. to Pt. 3, of which it originally formed Doc. No. 13, pp. 73-77, and will be found beyond.

[II'-11] David Fero, Jr., of New York, was an ensign of the 3d sub-Legion from May 12th, 1794, to Nov. 1st, 1796, when he was assigned to the 3d Infantry, in which he became a lieutenant Oct. 3d, 1798, and from which he resigned July 22d, 1799.

[II'-12] This appeal and remonstrance was given in the App. to Pt. 3, where it originally formed Doc. No. 14, pp. 78, 79, dated Apr. 14th; it will be found beyond.

[II'-13] These papers, originally forming Docs. Nos. 15 and 16, were given in the App. to Pt. 3, pp. 79-82, and will be found beyond.

[II'-14] This letter appeared in the App. to Part 3, where it originally formed Doc. No. 17, pp. 82, 83, dated Apr. 4th, and will be found beyond.

[II'-15] Mapula or vicinity—perhaps on the spot noted in Wislizenus' itinerary of Doniphan's vanguard, Apr. 25th, 1847, Mem. p. 62: "They made on that day but 14 miles, and encamped at Coursier's hacienda, near Mapula. This place is to the right of the usual road, and about five miles out of the way, but has to be resorted to for want of water, if one does not intend to go in one trip as far as Bachimba, the nearest watering place on the road, and 32 miles from Chihuahua." Mapula is marked on modern maps as on the railroad, S. E. from Chihuahua, while a Fresno appears to the right, due S. from that city. Pike is to follow the present railroad for many miles, but more or less inexactly. His "small ridge of mountains" is passed about 4 m. S. of Chihuahua; this is a range of hills which encompass the city on that side, and command a fine view. On crossing them, the main road runs S. E. in a valley 10 m. wide, bounded E. and W. by mountain ridges, with Coursier's hacienda and Mapula off to the right. About 20 m. from Chihuahua these ridges hem the valley so closely as to form a caÑon 5 or 6 m. long and 1 m. or less wide; Wislizenus notes a spring and ranche in this caÑon; [qu.: now called Horcasitas?] Bachimba is in the plain, about 5 m. off the caÑon, on a fine running stream; in 1847 it was a hacienda with a dozen houses.

[II'-16] Pike marks the fort "P[residio] de S^n. Paubla," and the river "Rio Sⁿ Paubla," without prejudice to the gender of the holy person concerned. Modern Ortiz is about the site of the Presidio San Pablo, on the railroad, on the N. or left bank of the river; the latter is present Rio San Pedro, a large branch of the Conchos which falls in above Julimes. About 10 m. S. of Bachimba the road forked; the right-hand fork went S. S. E., to Santa Cruz de Rosales, which was said to contain 5,000 inhabitants in itself and vicinity in 1847; it is on the Rio San Pedro, 8 m. higher up than San Pablo, to which the left-hand road leads S. E. The latter is the one Pike took; it is shorter than the other; both come together before Saucillo is reached. In 1847 San Pablo was reported to be "a flourishing place, with about 4,000 inhabitants": Wislizenus, Mem. p. 63. Rio San Pedro is a fine stream, over 100 m. long, heading in the mountains on the W. The plain or valley which it traverses, and in which both the roads above mentioned lie, has a varying width of 25-35 m.

[II'-17] Pike struck Rio Conchos where the railroad does now—at Saucillo, or El Saucillo, a town on the left or W. bank of the river; the "24 miles" from San Pablo to this place is about right. This march was through the same valley as yesterday's, with a good but not such a level road, as the mountains approach each other near Saucillo, leaving S. of it a gap through which the road continues into the next valley. The night's small station is less easily identified, but was no doubt at Las Garzas or in that immediate vicinity, where the Conchos is crossed. A Mexican league is supposed to be 5,000 varas (of about 33 inches each = about 4,583 yards, or nearly 2? m.), but in itineraries is usually found to be less than this. Las Garzas (Sp. garzas, "herons") is an obscure place not to be found on many modern maps; it is beyond Concho and La Cruz (both of which are points on the railroad). Wislizenus notes it on his journey, Mem. p. 64: "We passed through la Cruz, a small town, and further below [further S., but higher up Rio Conchos], through las Garzas, a smaller place yet, where we crossed the Conchos." It is the place marked "Pres[idio]" on Pike's map, which is probably in error in marking the trail as continuing up the left bank of the Conchos.

Rio Conchos is the principal river of Chihuahua, over 400 m. long, and with its many tributaries watering much of the State. The name is said to be derived from its shells (Sp. conchas), and I have seen Shell r. in print. It makes a long loop southward before turning N., and then runs about N. E. into the Rio Grande at Presidio del Norte—a place also called Presidio de las Juntas (lettered "Santas" on Pike's map) from the confluence of the two rivers. Rios Florido and San Pedro are its principal tributaries. Pike lays down the Conchos pretty well: notice particularly its northward course on the W. of the mountains, along what is called on his map "Puerta de la Virgin."

[II'-18] Pike's route of May 1st probably crossed the Conchos at or near Las Garzas, and continued approximately up the right or E. bank of that river to the confluence of Rio Florido, opp. Santa Rosalia, the "poor miserable village" of the text, which stood on a hill in the point between the two rivers; its present name is the same; the railroad passes it now. Writing of Apr. 30th, 1847, Wislizenus has, Mem. p. 65: "Santa Rosalia is a town of about 5,000 inhabitants; it lies on a hill about 100 feet higher than the river, and towards the S. spreading out on a small plateau. Here, on the southern end of the town, the Mexicans had erected a fort against General Wool, when his division was expected to march towards Chihuahua." The town is not marked on Pike's map, which, moreover, gives his trail as crossing the Conchos there and the Florido higher up, though the usual road comes up the right bank of the Conchos and crosses the Florido at or near the mouth of the latter, to continue E. S. E. up its left side. Rio Florido is the largest branch of the Conchos, having itself various tributaries, as R. de Barral, falling in near Bustamente, and R. Allende, with Jimenez near its mouth; the railroad crosses both of these at the places said. Neither of these streams appears on Pike's map. The place where he dined seems to be about that marked Santa Rita on his map. This I do not recognize; but it cannot have been far from Bustamente. The evident confusion of distances in the text makes it probably impossible to identify the "private house" at which he slept. La Ramada was a small place on the Rio Florido, about 24 m. from Santa Rosalia. He seems to have come beyond this point, perhaps to the vicinity of present Jimenez (on the railroad). His legend "Camion de Monaseo" presumably stands for Camino de Monasterio (Monastery road).

[II'-19] Or Guajuquilla: a well-known place on the right or S. bank of the river, marked on Pike's map as a presidio or fortified town. A citation from Wislizenus, Mem. p. 65, will throw some further light on the situation: "Made a strong march to-day [May 3d, 1847] of 33 miles [from La Ramada], to Guajuquilla. The road was constantly winding itself through endless chaparrÁl; the Rio Florido on the left, and mountains and hills east and west, in the distance, from 10 to 20 miles. About half way we passed a rancho with some water; farther on the road forks; the right hand road leads directly to the town; the other by a large hacienda [qu.: where Pike slept last night?]. Before Guajuquilla we crossed the Florido, and passing through town encamped south of it. Guajuquilla looks more like a town than any other place we have seen so far, on the road from Chihuahua; its population is from 6 to 7,000." Three miles S. of this town was the Hacienda de Dolores, "a large estate with well irrigated and cultivated fields"; a place on the railroad is now marked "Dolores." Thence the road continued for a jornada of about 50 m. without water. Pike will proceed upon this on the 6th, the party having been sent ahead on the 5th.

[II'-20] An unidentifiable place on the jornada, short of the first water from Guajuquilla.

[II'-21] Pike's map marks the first spring on the road as "Ojo S. Bernarde" and the next as "Ojo S Blas"—names which appear to be transposed from the order in which they come in other itineraries of this route. Thus Wislizenus, Mem. p. 66: "About eight miles from our to-night camp, we passed a spring, with a water-pool, in a ravine to the left of our road; but the water was so muddy and brackish, that the animals refused to drink, or rather to eat it. This spot is known as San Antonio camp. Three miles further, a few deserted houses, and a spring on the right hand of the road (San Blas), are found; but the water is equally bad, and of sulphureted taste. The first good water, and in sufficient quantity, is met about five miles beyond San Blas, in San Bernardo, a deserted rancho, with willows and cotton trees, built against a steep mountain wall, from whence a fine creek takes its origin. A small plain half a mile below the rancho contains also some springs and water-pools, and good grass. We pitched our camp in this plain. We have travelled to-day, according to my estimate, about 40 miles [i.e., from a dry camp about 20 m. from the Hacienda de Dolores, near Guajuquilla]." It is clear that Wislizenus is on Pike's trail, and that they have reached what is practically the same camp—near the San Bernardo spring of the former's narrative, or the San Blas spring of the latter's map; and that the spring which Pike speaks of as the "first water from Guaxequillo" and maps as San Bernarde spring, was either the San Antonio camp or the San Blas spring of Wislizenus. The situation is considerably off the present railroad, and the above names are not to be found on ordinary modern maps. But my identifications are confirmed by the fact that both travelers, on decamping next day, cross a mountain gap or pass and soon come upon a river: see next note.

[II'-22] The mountain Pike passes, and the river he crosses, are easily identified; the latter is the stream known as El Andabazo (or Cerro Gordo), with a town of the latter name higher up on it. This is the first of several streams we shall cross, running to the left as we go, and sinking in the Bolson de Mapimi—for they are all beyond the Conchos basin, the divide of which was passed in the course of the long dry jornada above noted. The lake that the Cerro Gordo cr. sinks in is sometimes called Laguna de Xacco: so Hughes, Don. Exp., 1847, p. 129. The trail Pike followed is thus described by Wislizenus, p. 66: "We started late, and made but 10 miles, to the Cerro Gordo, or el Andabazo creek. Having crossed the mountain, at whose foot San Bernardo lies, we went for a mile through a caÑon, with mountains of limestone on both sides, and from there into another valley, watered by the el Andabazo. This considerable creek seems to run from southwest to northeast." The obscure town of Cerro Gordo above named must not be confounded with the place in Vera Cruz which was the scene of the famous battle of Cerro Gordo.

Pike has now passed the present interstate boundary between Chihuahua and Durango. The line runs on a parallel of latitude from Lago de Tlahualila 60 Mex. leagues W. to a source of Rio del Fuerte near Huenote. Pike maps Lake Tlahualila conspicuously: see the large sheet of water laid down in the Bolson Mapimi across which is legended "Here the Indians sallied forth to attack New Biscay and Cohuahuila," and which has a large forked stream running into it from the S. The main fork of this is the present Rio de Nasas, which actually discharges into Laguna del Muerto; so Pike's body of water represents both Lake Tlahualila and the Lake of the Dead, as well as some smaller sheets, as Laguna del Cayman, etc., all lying in the same general depression. Pike mentions "Lac du Cayman" elsewhere and correctly says that Rio Nassas (which he also calls Brassos) falls into it. L. de Parras, however, he lays down separately, with its own river discharging into it. The boundaries of Chihuahua, Durango, and Coahuila all meet in Lake Tlahualila, whence that between Durango and Coahuila runs S. for a few miles and then S. E., while that between Chihuahua and Coahuila extends N. along the border of the Bolson to the Rio Grande.

[II'-23] Pelayo is the best-known place we have come to since leaving Guajuquilla, and easily found on modern maps by this name; it appears on Pike's map as "P[residio]. Pelia," and has been more fully called Hacienda de San JosÉ de Pelayo. The name is thus a personal one, though some have derived it from Sp. pelar, to boil, scald, with reference to the hot sulphur springs. (One Pelayo, Latinized Pelagius, founded the monarchy of Asturias in Spain early in the eighth century A. D. The form Palayo is also found.) The place is on the main road, about 25 m. from the crossing of Andabazo cr. "Pelayo," says Wislizenus, p. 67, "is a small village, or hacienda, with several good springs around it; some of common, others of higher temperature. The creek formed by them is, according to the Mexican statements, afterwards lost in the sand.... In Pelayo, a small but steep hill was fortified on the top, by walls of stone. This fortification was probably intended against General Wool's army. Two days before us [i.e., May 5th, 1847] Lieutenant Colonel Mitchell had arrived here with the vanguard [of Doniphan's troops], and seeing the inhabitants of the place organized as a military company, he made 30 of them prisoners, and took their arms from them; but upon their representation that they would by this act become a prey to the surrounding Indians, he restored them their arms, under the condition that they be used only for defence against Indians." That series of creeks flowing to the left, two of which have thus far been mentioned, are all crossed by the railroad, much E. of Pike's route; four places at or near which such crossings occur are named Escalon, Zavalza, Conejos, and Peronal—the two former in Chihuahua, the two latter in Durango, and the last of these being nearest the railroad crossing of the creek which flows through La Cadena, as about to be noted.

[II'-24] La Cadena is present name of a place on or near the fourth one of the small streams above noted, considerably off (?) the modern main road—say 20 m. S. W. of Peronal, and 25 m. due W. of Mapimi. It is reached by a rough mountain road 18 m. from Pelayo, past the copper mine of Oruilla; the hacienda there, of which Pike speaks as being so rich in stock, had been deserted when Wislizenus passed in 1847. The creek comes from the Sierra de las Mimbres, on the W. Another steep range rises about 3 m. E. of La Cadena; the gap between the two is the Pass of Cadena, Puerta de Cadena, or "Door of the Prison," through which Pike goes to-day due E. in the direction of Mapimi.

[II'-25] Lettered "Maupeme" on the map, and so rendered in the text beyond; same word as that in Pike's legend "Bolson de Mapini"; now usually spelled Mapimi. Hughes writes Malpimi. The meaning of the word is unknown, as it probably would not be were it of Spanish derivation; its most frequent use is in the phrase Bolson de Mapimi, applied to very extensive tracts of low-lying ground encompassed with mountains, chiefly in the states of Chihuahua and Coahuila, but also overreaching into Durango. Bolson is a Spanish word which means various things, among them "purse," "pouch," or "pocket," and seems to be applied here in the same way that we use the word "hole" for several different valleys in our Rocky mts. Mapimi, as the designation of a particular place, is still the name of the town Pike comes to, now on the railroad, about 15 m. by rail from Peronal, and about 20 m. by the road he came from La Cadena Pass. It is thus the place where the highway and the railroad come together. The situation is the eastern part of an extensive valley some 20 m. wide and 35 m. long from N. to S., surrounded on all sides by mountains yielding silver mines. "Two springs, called Espiritu Santo and Agua de Leon, form here [at Mapimi] a creek, which runs through the town in an eastern direction," Wislizenus, l. c. This seems to be the stream that "formed a terrestrial paradise" for Pike—as well it might, with the Holy Ghost re-enforcing Ponce de Leon. Wislizenus found Mapimi "rather deserted," May 9th, 1847; but the artillery "fired a salute, in honor of the anniversary of the battle of Palo Alto" (fought May 8th, 1846). Pike's camp of the 11th of May, 3 m. E. of Mapimi, was snug under the eastern mountain chain, whence it was about 2 m. through a caÑon into another valley forming a part of the series of the Bolson de Mapimi.

[II'-26] "The little village" is not named. Pike's map makes the triple forking of the road he is about to mention in the immediate vicinity of Mapimi; but this appears to be an error, as he was already 3 m. beyond that town when he started on the 12th. His map is otherwise so far out of drawing that it does help us much more than the slender thread of text to discover exactly what way Captain Barelo took him around the Bolson to Parras. The precise stages of the journey to Parras would probably be recoverable by one thoroughly familiar with the ground; but it is impossible for me to trace the route upon any map I have been able to find. The only road laid down on the best map before me runs down the Rio Nasas past San Lorenzo to Mayron, at the Laguna del Muerto, into which that river sinks, and thence to Pozo (Pozzo) and Parras. From the railroad junction at Torreon the track runs at a distance from, but approximately parallel with, the river and the road just indicated, through places marked Matamoras, Colonia, and Hornos, to Mayron and thence to Pozo. Wislizenus speaks of a place apparently about where Pike comes to on the 12th, where the road forks, and describes a "northern" and a "southern" route. The northern one, he says, leads by Alamito, San Lorenzo, and San Juan (all on the Rio Nasas) to El Pozo; it is thus identical with or very nearly the same as the one just said to descend the Rio Nasas. The southern one, he says, would have taken him by San Sebastian, on the Nasas, to GatuÑo, Matamoras (or la Bega de Maraujo), Santa Mayara, by the Laguna de Parras to Alamo de Parras, St. Domingo, and PeÑa, to El Pozo, and thence to Parras. I think that Pike's route coincides most closely with this one; it is for the most part S. of the railroad, passing close to the Laguna de Parras (the sink of the Rio Guanabel); and when we find him at Parras, on the 17th, he is almost due E. of the place where he crossed the Rio Nasas, at an air-line distance therefrom of nearly or about 40 Mexican leagues—say 100 m.

The "Monsieur de Croix" above named is Teodoro de Croix, b. at Lille, Flanders, about 1730, d. at Madrid, Spain, Apr. 8th, 1791; he was viceroy of Peru from Apr., 1784, to Mar., 1790; he had previously served as commandant of the interior provinces and of Sonora, under his elder brother, Carlos Francisco de Croix, Marques de Croix, and viceroy of New Spain, 1766-1771. See the legend of his route on Pike's map.

[II'-27] "Brasses" and "Brassos" are Pike's rendering of Brazos, name of a great river in Texas, but the stream here meant by "Brasses" is Rio Nasas (or Nazas), which flows into Laguna del Muerto, in Coahuila. This he elsewhere calls Nassas and Nassus; saying that it runs into Lake Cayman, and forms part of the boundary between Cogquilla (Coahuila) and New Biscay (his name for Chihuahua, though he means Durango). He also charts it conspicuously, but much out of drawing: see his map, first river E. of Mapimi, with "Rancho Sⁿ Antonio" there lettered. Some of my maps, running back 40 years, apply the name Nazas to that other stream (Rio Guanabal) which sinks in Laguna de Parras, and which Pike also charts, greatly out of position; but he is correct in his identification of the Nasas. This is a notable stream in Durango and Coahuila, which has been called "the vein and center of the Bolson" by Wislizenus, who says further, p. 69: "San Sebastian is a hacienda on the left bank of the Nasas river, and about 35 miles from Mapimi. The Nasas is here quite a deep and respectable stream, while further down it becomes flat, and disappears sometimes entirely in the sand. It comes about 150 leagues from the western part of the State of Durango, from the so-called Sianori mountains.... The Nasas is the Nile of the Bolson de Mapimi; the wide and level country along the river is yearly inundated by its rising, and owes to that circumstance its great fertility."

On crossing Rio Nasas, or at a point on his road in that vicinity, Pike passes from the present State of Durango into that of Coahuila; but we have no mileage for the 13th. He never leaves Coahuila till he enters the Texas of his day, close to present San Antonio de Bexar, Tex. He never touches Nuevo Leon at any point.

[II'-28] El Rancho de San Antonio, already indicated as on the Rio Nasas, but exact location in question. I cannot find the name on any modern map. It does not seem to be the same place as the San Sebastian mentioned by Wislizenus. But the general locality is near the present interstate boundary of Coahuila and Durango, not far from the place where the two railroads cross each other, known as El Torreon (The Tower).

[II'-29] Santa Rosa, one of the principal Coahuilan towns, about half-way between Monclova and Presidio del Rio Grande, on waters of the Upper Rio Sabinas, and on the road which General Wool took during the invasion of Mexico.

[II'-30] See Pike's map, place legended "Well of Putrid Water."

[II'-31] The text is contradictory concerning mileage, and ambiguous in the matter of the road which came in. The place whence water was drawn is that legended "Well of Mineral Water" on Pike's map. I am not sure that this is El Pozo of various maps and itineraries before me, called "Pozzo" on the most modern ones; but am inclined to think it is. Pozo is a well-known place where the railroad now crosses a highway, and whence there is a regular road S. W. to Alamos de Parras, and another S. E. to Parras itself. Under date of May 13th, 1847, Wislizenus has, Mem. p. 71: "We travelled to-day 25 miles from San Juan to el Pozo. The road was more gravelly than sandy, at first quite level, afterwards slightly ascending. A few miles to our right a steep mountain chain was running parallel with our road; to the left rose more distant mountains.... About half way we passed by a deserted rancho, 'Refugio,' with a well. Near El Pozo the valley becomes narrower." Dr. W. describes a fight with Lipan Indians which had occurred at Pozo two days before, and continues, p. 72: "El Pozo (the well) is a hacienda, belonging to Don Manuel de Ibarra, and consists of but one large building, in which many families live. The place is distinguished for its ingenious water-works. It consists of a deep and very spacious well, from which the water is drawn by mule power in the following way: Over a large wheel in the upper part of the well a strong and broad band of leather is stretched, moving around with the wheel; to the band, in regular distances, many buckets of leather are attached, which, by the equal circular motion of the wheel and the band, are descending on one side of the well, and fill themselves with water, while they are drawn up on the other side, and, emptying their water into a basin, return again to the well. To receive the drawn water, two large basins of stone, about 40 feet wide and 100 feet long, have been made, and on the outside of the basins runs a long line of troughs, all of stone, for the watering of the animals.... The same Indians which our men fought here, the Lipans, used to frequent this well very freely, and carried their impudence even so far that they notified the Mexicans at what time they wanted to have the basins full, and the Mexicans did not dare to disobey. Although the idea of this water-wheel is by no means a new one, it is certainly very simply and well executed, and the more gratifying to the traveller, as this is the only watering place between San Juan and Parras, a distance of about 50 miles."

[II'-32] No mileage for the 17th; but Paras is a notable place, easily discovered on ordinary maps. Sp. parras means grapevines, especially such as are trained on a trellis, and various vineyards have given geographical names in Mexico, as Laguna de Parras, Alamo de Parras, etc. The latter is a phrase coming near what is meant by our traditional "vine and fig-tree"; it now designates a place further W., not to be mistaken for Parras itself. "Paras" and the San Lorenzo hacienda above said are both marked on Pike's map; the latter must not be confused with present town of San Lorenzo on Rio Nasas, much further W. The map is entirely out of drawing in these parts, but not irrecognizably, and we can make the requisite adjustments. In particular, Laguna de Parras is put down over 100 m. from its true position, and the course of its feeder (Rio Guanabal) is still further out of the way. His route passed near this laguna, between it and Laguna del Muerto. We must not forget that he was traveling under compulsion, propulsion, and perpetual irritation—circumstances unfavorable to the accuracy of such notes as he could take by stealth and afterward supplement from memory, and under which he could not be expected to improve Humboldt's map!

Some extracts from Dr. Wislizenus, Mem. pp. 72, 73, will give a better idea of Parras than Pike's glimpse affords: "May 14 [1847]. We left [Pozo] this morning for Parras, in the State of Coahuila.... Our road ran parallel with a near mountain chain on the right, and was mostly ascending. In the latter part of our march we saw from a hill Parras, at the foot of the same chain, which here makes a bend towards southeast. The first sight of the town reminded me of el Paso, on account of the great many gardens and vineyards that surround it. Entering the town, I was struck with the luxuriant growth of pomegranates, figs, and fruits of all sorts, and with the enormous height and circumference of the common opuntias and agaves, which I had already seen in the State of Chihuahua, but much smaller. The opuntias had trunks of one foot in diameter, and the agave americana grew to the height of from 10 to 15 feet, making excellent hedges. The town itself was much handsomer than I had expected. It has some fine streets, with old substantial buildings, a large 'plaza,' and a general appearance of wealth and comfort. We encamped in the Alameda, a beautiful public walk, shaded with cotton trees and provided with seats of repose. Early in the morning a concert of thousands of birds, many mockingbirds among them, that live here quite undisturbed, awoke us from our slumber. These Alamedas, fashionable in all the Mexican cities, do honor to the general taste of the Mexicans for flowers, gardens, and natural embellishments. To prevent any injury to the trees our horses were kept outside the Alameda. Parras was probably built towards the end of the seventeenth century, and received its name from its vine, parra meaning vine-branch. The cultivation of the vine is at present a principal object of industry in Parras. The vineyards are mostly on the hilly slopes of the limestone mountains west of town. They produce a white and a red wine, both of very pleasant taste, resembling somewhat the wine of el Paso, but more heating and stronger.... We rested in Parras two days, and left it on the morning of May 17, on our road to Saltillo. From Parras we marched about five miles in an eastern direction, through a a plain, to San Lorenzo, or, as it is commonly called, Hacienda de Abajo, a large, splendid hacienda, belonging to the above mentioned Don Manuel de Ibarra. The road from el Pozo leads directly to this place; by going to Parras, several leagues are lost." This "lower hacienda" is the one which Pike names above, and where he camps to-night.

[II'-33] No distance or direction given, and no place named—but we can discover Pike by extraneous means. Dr. Wislizenus says, p. 73: "From here [San Lorenzo] the road was winding over a hilly and rocky country, till we arrived in Cienega Grande, a hacienda of Don Rey de Guerrero, (25 miles from Parras.)" This is no doubt the place Pike reaches, on his way to Patos. The unnamed hacienda of the text is so marked on his map, on the above "fine stream." This creek requires attention. Pike lays it down as one of the headwaters of Rio Tigre, also called Rio San Francisco del Tigre, which he mistakes it to be, and so runs it off into the Gulf of Mexico, about where Tiger r. does in fact empty. But Pike was never on any tributary of Tiger r.—never in that watershed at all—never in Nuevo Leon. His "fine stream" is a headwater of that river which falls into the Rio Grande by Ringgold Barracks, and whose two main forks are known as Rio San Juan and Rio Salinas. Saltillo, once known as Leona Victoria, and present capital of Coahuila, is on a branch of the Salinas (Rio Meteros); and Monterey, present capital of Nuevo Leon, is on a branch of the San Juan.

[II'-34] Before coming to Patos and Florida, we will see what Wislizenus says, Mem. p. 73: "May 18. Through a wide valley, with mountains to the north and south, we went to-day (18 miles) to Rancho Nuevo, and encamped about one mile southeast of it, in a valley.... Some miles from our camp, in a corner, amidst mountains, lies CastaÑuela, an old but small town, from which a shorter but very rough road leads over the mountains to Parras. A fine creek runs by it, descending from the southwest mountains and turning towards the northeast." This seems to be about the place to which Pike was brought on the 19th.

[II'-35] "Pattos" is marked "Hacienda Poloss" on Pike's map, where it is set down about a day's journey due W. of "Saltello"; "Florida" is also marked, nearly as far off to the N. E. But these are mere crudities of engraving; any good modern map will show Patos, about 35 m. W. by S. from Saltillo, and about 16 m. S. by W. from San Antonio de Jaral; which latter is 12 m. S. E. of a place on the railroad now called Pastora. As to Patos and its vicinity we will hear from Dr. Wislizenus, Mem. p. 74: "May 19. Marched 25 miles [from Rancho Nuevo] to Vequeria, a small place on a creek of the same name. The very tortuous road led over a hilly and broken country. From one of the hills we perceived, towards the E. N. E., the distant mountains of Saltillo. About five miles from Vequeria we passed a creek with very clear water, the San Antonio, which unites below, near Patos, with the Vequeria creek.... Northeast from Vequeria is an opening in the surrounding mountains, through which the mountain chain of Saltillo appears again. The route through this pass is the shortest and most direct from Saltillo, but with wagons one has to take a southeastern course to avoid the mountains. About one mile from Vequeria, in the pass leading to Saltillo, lies Patos, a small town." The name of the place Dr. W. calls "Vequeria" is preferably spelled Vaqueria; the word means simply stock-farm or cattle-ranch; vaqueros are the cowboys of such places, whom I used to hear called "buckeros" when I was in New Mexico, perhaps by unconscious confusing of "vaqueros" with the bucking bronchos they rode.

Here we regret to take leave of our accomplished fellow-traveler, who has set up finger-posts on Pike's route all the way from El Paso to Patos. Dr. Wislizenus keeps on eastward to meet General Wool's forces at Buena Vista and Saltillo. Pike has turned northward, down the San Antonio cr., and camps at Florida, less than 3 m. N. of Patos, in the direction of San Antonio de Jaral.

[II'-36] Route of the 21st northward, past if not through San Antonio de Jaral, down the right side of San Antonio cr., and across this from E. to W.; thence continuing northward to some point probably on the present railroad and in the vicinity of the station now known as Sauceda (Willows). Pike's map shows the crossing, at a point below certain forks he delineates, probably not far from half-way between Sauceda and Pastora.

[II'-37] Route N., thus bearing off from the river, main road, and line of present railroad, all of which run along together about N. N. E.; camp at or near no named place, but about 8 m. due W. of a place on the railroad (TreviÑo or Venadito) where a branch turns off to go to Monterey. "La Rancho" of the text, better written El Rancho, or simply ranch, is beyond the place marked on the map as an Indian village by the name of "Rambo"—unless this is the ranch itself, a little misplaced.

[II'-38] Route about N., 15-20 m. to the foot of the pass in the cross mountain, at the place marked "Rivera" on Pike's map.

[II'-39] On making Three Rivers Pass in the morning, Pike goes over the "cross mountain" which forms the divide between the waters of the San Juan and Salinas basin, and comes upon the water-shed of Rio Sabinas (which river he will cross to reach the Rio Grande). The main road which he strikes at the 13th mile is also the railroad line, and he strikes them both at or near Bajan, 5 m. above Joya, where the main road now comes in from points eastward. We have no mileage for the 24th, but it was a good day's journey to get only 9 m. short of Montelovez (Monclova).

As several of Pike's daily mileages are missing, we cannot say exactly how many miles he made it out to be from the Mapimi locality to Montelovez. If we average up the missing ones with the rest of the 14 days, it makes 15 m. a day, or a total of 210 m. Those who are better informed than myself concerning the kind of country passed over can judge how near right these figures may be. It seems to me rather scant measure for the most direct route by which the Bolson could have been flanked by anything like the curve the railroad now takes. Pike certainly never made such a fishhook-shaped trail as that delineated on his map, if he only went 210 m.

[II'-40] Route N., down E. bank of the river on which Monclova is situated, along the main road and present railroad. No mileage; but 5½ hours on a road should make 16-18 m., and set Pike near Hermanos, at the place Don Melcher or Michon had his real estate.

[II'-41] Benjamin Lockwood of Ohio had been an ensign in the levies of 1791 when he was appointed a lieutenant of Infantry, Mar. 7th, 1792, and arranged to the 4th sub-Legion, Sept. 4th of that year; he was attached to the 4th Infantry, Nov. 1st, 1796, made a captain July 10th, 1797, transferred to the 2d Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802, and to the 1st Infantry Sept. 2d of that year; and died July 29th, 1807.

[II'-42] The present town of Encinas (The Oaks) is on the road, 20 m. from Hermanos, and presumably at or near the site of the old Barego estate. Pike is fairly in the valley of Rio Sabinas.

[II'-43] Millada r. of Pike is the main fork of Sabinas r., and the one whose upper waters he left at Hermanos. Leaving it there, the road through Encinas to Alamo cuts off a bend of the river which the railroad now meanders by way of Baroteran, Aura, Obeya, and so on. The ranch was at present site of Alamo, a well-known crossing where several roads still concenter, 10 or 12 m. above the forks. It used to be called Alameda Arriba or, as we should say, "Upper Cottonwoods"; whence I imagine that Pike got his name "Millada." This river flowed to his right as he faced N.; the letter "w" of the word "which" is engraved on the map at precisely the point he crossed this stream: see next note.

[II'-44] The main stream of Sabinas r. is crossed at the place now called Potrillo, and also Juarez, 10 m. from Alamo. This sets Pike at a point 17 m. further on a bee line for the Presidio Grande. His mapping of the "Millada" and Sabinas rivers is faulty to the last degree: see the map on this point. 1. The Millada (on which the letter "w" is engraved) should turn above that point and connect with the stream on which "Montelovez" is situated. 2. The main Sabinas (identifiable on the map by "? Kan" engraved alongside Pike's trail) should have been carried clear up N. W., 100 m. or more. 3. The great river which Pike fetches into the Rio Grande at Presidio Grande, and which he runs down to this point from "Montelovez," does not exist. It is an imaginary river, compounded of about equal parts of upper portions of the two forks of the Sabinas, cut off from their proper connections lower down, and run into the Rio Grande about 100 m. too high up. The rest of the river (E. of Pike's trail) is connected with the Rio Grande about right—that is to say, below Laredo. Observe that Pike says nothing about crossing the mouth of any such river as his map shows just where his trail comes to the Rio Grande. It is a sheer blunder, which has baffled many a person who naturally supposed that Pike fetched up at the mouth of Sabinas r., some 40 m. below Laredo, but never could see how he got there, or how he got thence to San Antonio, or what in the name of geography the two rivers he crossed were anyhow. In fine, this affair of the Sabinas r. befogged the whole trail for several hundred miles, both in Mexico and in Texas. For my own part, I first tried to bring Pike to the Rio Grande at the mouth of Sabinas r., and very soon lost him in Nuevo Leon—to say nothing of the impossibility of trailing him thence to San Antonio. Then I tried the roads to Laredo, observing that this would do pretty well for the Texan side; but again I lost him in Nuevo Leon. Though the map itself indicated that Pike never was in Nuevo Leon (where General Salcedo, in fact, had no business to send troops, as it was out of his jurisdiction), yet political boundaries nearly a century old go for little on their face, and I was almost tempted to give the puzzle up. But I thought that I would try the experiment of disregarding the map altogether, and trailing Pike solely by his itinerary in the text. It was a week's work to satisfy myself that he was never over the present boundary of Coahuila after he left Durango, and probably never 25 m. on either side of the railroad from Mapimi to Sabinas r. There he was within two days of the Rio Grande, heading straight for the Presidio Salto; and a glance at his map showed me what the trouble was with that unlucky river.

[II'-45] Directly on the main road to Presidio Salto—the Presidio Grande, or del Rio Grande, of Pike. The running water, on which was situated a ranch, was one of the several small affluents of the Rio Grande which run E. along here on the Mexican side.

[III'-1] Pike is now seen to have been all the while on the old Spanish trail from Coahuila into Texas—for it was the "old" trail of his day, a century ago. The place is 40 m. below Eagle Pass or old Fort Duncan, and 90 m. above Laredo or old Fort McIntosh. It is thus the middle one of three places on the river within easy striking distance of San Antonio, Tex. From each of the three roads still converge to the latter point; but this most historic place on the lower Rio Grande has in the course of time fallen between two stools, so to speak. For now one railroad runs from San Antonio nearly S. to Laredo, by the way of Pearsall, Derby, Cotulla, Encinal, Webb, and Sanchez, and another comes W. to Laredo from Corpus Christi on the Gulf; while a third railroad connects San Antonio with Eagle Pass by way of Castroville, Salinal, and Brackettville (Fort Clark). The last named one is that which Pike kept so close to on his way out of Mexico; the one from Laredo runs in Nuevo Leon to Monterey and so on. Eagle Pass is roundly 500 m. up the Rio Grande, by any practicable road, but less than half as far from the Gulf in a direct line. Forty years ago it had a population of 300, and Fort Duncan, which adjoined the town, was our uppermost military post on the river. On the other side the Mexicans had their similar establishment at a place called Piedras Negras or Black Rocks. A fine view of this place is given on one of the engravings of the U. S. and Mex. B. Survey, supposed to be bound opp. p. 72. The Ciudad Porfirio Diaz is there or thereabouts now, and another settlement called Fuentes is in the neighborhood; but Fort Duncan has disappeared, except from history. Fuentes is on a small river which falls in just above; higher up on the same is San Fernando de Rosas, or Zaragoza, a point whence various roads radiate. Laredo or Loredo is a very old place, whose history dates back to the early Spanish occupation of the country. Emory writes that in his time, say 1850, it was a decayed place of 600 inhabitants, having been ravaged by savage hordes, and being then supported mainly by old Fort McIntosh, which was built a mile above the town. He thinks that the countless herds of horses which had been stampeded and stolen by the Indians were the progenitors of the mustangs which roamed the plains of Texas thence N. and E. Laredo is now a focal point of roads from every direction, including two railroads; and a place called Nuevo Laredo is established across the river. At 61 or 62 m. by the road below Laredo, and thus opposite the mouth of Rio Sabinas (which takes the undesirable name of Rio Salado below its forks), a fortified trading-post was built, and called Bellville. This name appears on maps of 40 years ago, but has lapsed, like that of Redmond's Ranch by which it was once known, and there is nothing on the American side to show for what would supposably be a marked place—the confluence of so large a river with the Rio Grande. But there is a town of Carrizo a few miles below, on the Texan side. The Mexican town of Guerro or Guerrero is located on the N. bank of Rio Salado, 4 m. up; and 3 m. further are the handsome falls, a colored plate of which should be found opp. p. 65 of the Report last named. Forty miles below this confluence, Rio Alamo, also known as Rio Alcontre, falls in on the Mexican side, and 4 m. up this river is the town of Mier, on its S. bank. Mier, or a town of that name in this vicinity, must be an old place; Pike marks a Mier on the Texan side. The Mier of the Mexican War became a celebrated place, during the Texan invasion of 1840, when a desperate fight occurred on its plaza. It was then a town of 2,000 or 3,000 inhabitants, and had many stone buildings among the straw-thatched huts. It made much history, and was a point of strategic importance, being the starting-place of the shortest and most direct road to Monterey. Military operations on the Rio Grande during the American occupation of Mier are said by Emory to have altered the channel of the river, with the result of throwing the island of Los Adjuntos over to the Mexican side, and thus changing what had been the United States and Mexican boundary. About 5 m. further down the Rio Grande stands Roma, a town on the American side, notable as the head of ordinary steamboat navigation. Below this, at the distance of 16 or 17 m., are the adjoining localities of Rio Grande City and Ringgold Barracks. These notable places are opposite the mouth of the San Juan r., on some of whose headwaters Pike was found in the country W. of Saltillo, and which is the first considerable stream that falls in on the Mexican side above the Gulf. The town of Camargo is built on its E. bank, about 4 m. up. The original establishment of Fort Ringgold is old (for our young history on the Rio Grande); it was a mean place in 1850, when Rio Grande City had a population of about 300, but came into prominence during the years of the Boundary Survey, when it was a base of various operations, and a point of observation: distance from the sea, 241 m. by the river; alt. 521 feet; lat. 26° 22´ 27.79´´ N.; long. 98° 46´ 32.85´´ W. (Emory, l. c.). All the points here in mention, between and including Ringgold Barracks and Laredo, are in Texas or in Tamaulipas; for Nuevo Leon is cut off from the Rio Grande by the Tamaulipan "Panhandle" which runs up to Coahuila. To return now from our trip up and down the river to the famous place where we left Pike: The name of Presidio Rio Grande which Pike uses is not yet entirely obsolete, but the place is now better known as Presidio Salto—that is, "Fort Falls," or the Mexican military post which was established near the falls of the Rio Grande. Las Isletas, or The Islets, is the name of the place in the river where the usually impassable falls or rapids occur, and just above these is the crossing. The scene is well shown on the plate opp. p. 68 of the Report cited. The latitude of Las Isletas was determined by Michler in 1853 to be 28° 16´ 11.5´´ N.

[III'-2] N. E., heading straight for San Antonio de Bexar, on the old trail, to the vicinity of Carrizo springs, Maverick Co.

[III'-3] The Nueces (R. des Noix of F. maps, as Vaugondy, 1783; Neuces on Winterbotham's, 1795) is the first one of the large series of rivers which drain Texas to the S. E. and S., and fall into one another or separately into the Gulf. Among these are the San Antonio, the Guadalupe, the Colorado (Red river of Texas), the Brazos, the Trinity, the Nechez, and the Sabine—all of which Pike had to cross, in the order in which they are here named, to reach Natchitoches on the Red r. in the present State of Louisiana. During this journey to the last named he continued in what was then the Spanish province of Coahuila until he was almost to San Antonio, and thereafter traversed the then province of Texas, though he passed into what is now the U. S. State of Texas on crossing the Rio Grande.

[III'-4] Those three streams which Pike lays down across his trail, before the San Antonio is reached, are the Nueces; the Leona, a branch of the Frio; and the Frio, main branch of the Nueces. These are successively crossed in the order here given. To-day's pond is marked on the map, between the Nueces and the Leona; a second pond is also marked, between the Leona and the Frio. Pike letters the Frio "Cold Creek," and runs the Nueces into the Rio Grande at or near Mier (see note¹); but it empties separately into the Gulf of Mexico near Corpus Christi. Fort Ewell was built on the Nueces, on the road between San Antonio and Laredo (Fort McIntosh); near the headwaters of the Leona was situated Fort Inge, on the road from San Antonio to Eagle Pass (Fort Duncan).

My maps differ irreconcilably concerning a certain Rio Quihi, tributary to the Nueces system. The best one, of 1857-58, makes it a large branch of the Leona, reaching across the direct route from Presidio Salto to San Antonio, and therefore across Pike's trail. This Quihi r. is the present San Miguel r., which joins the Frio in McMullen Co. On an earlier map, 1849, there is no such river, but an insignificant Quihi cr., branch of a Rio Hondo, branch of a Rio Seco, branch of the Rio Frio. Some of these maps lay down a branch of the Frio called Artaceoasa cr. in one instance, and Atascosa cr. in another; this name is the same as that of a place Pike marks "Astecostota," and of present Atascosa Co., in which the creek runs to fall into the Frio in Live Oak Co.

[III'-5] "Lee Panes" looks at first sight as if intended for Les Panis, the Pawnees. But this is Pike's way of rendering Lipans. These were a tribe cognate with Apaches, and therefore of Athapascan stock. They were often called Lipan Apaches, and sometimes Sipans. Pike elsewhere speaks of "the language of the Appaches and Le Panis," showing what he means.

[III'-6] The trip from the Rio Grande to the San Antonio r. made about 151 m. by Pike's estimates, serving to show the course of the old Spanish trail as the most direct route then practicable. Pike's Mariano is now called Medina r.; on this is Castroville, seat of Medina Co., and the river mostly separates this county from Bexar Co. Pike sets San Antonio on the N. bank of an affluent of a fork large enough to look as if it were Rio Cibolo; but this last comes in much further down the San Antonio, and no doubt he intended simply to delineate the small forked San Pedro, on one of whose branches the city was situated. The San Antonio itself is represented as joining the Guadalupe high up; but these two great rivers only come together as they approach the coast, to fall into Espiritu Santo bay opposite Matagorda isl., between Indianola and Arkansas City. On some old maps, as that in Winterbotham's History, 1795, San Antonio is set on a stream called Rio Hondo, which is run separately into the Gulf of Mexico between the Nueces and the Guadalupe. The early importance of the Mariano or Medina r. as a political boundary ceased of course with the retirement of Coahuila beyond the Rio Grande, and thus the extension of Texan territory, through what had been Coahuilan territory, to New Mexico. The city was formerly more fully called San Antonio de Bexar, Bejar, Behar, Bexer, etc., to distinguish it from uncounted other places dedicated to the patron saint of highways by highwaymen and other persons, and is still the seat of Bexar Co.; pop. lately 37,673 (scarcely less than that of Dallas). The mission of "St. Joseph," commonly called San JosÉ, is figured on p. 69 of Major Emory's reports, probably looking much as it did when Pike was received there by the priest; and the steel engraving which forms the frontispiece of the same volume shows the plaza of the city. San Antonio is a very old place, having been occupied for military and ecclesiastical purposes before 1720, was long the most important one in Texas, was styled ThermopylÆ of Texas after the massacre of Texans by Mexicans at Fort Alamo, Mar. 6th, 1836, and is now the second in size, though the capital of the present State is Austin, on the Rio Colorado of Texas.

[III'-7] Sabine r. still forms a portion of the boundary between Texas and Louisiana—that is, from the Gulf to 32° N., the remainder being along a meridian to 33°. In consequence of its delimiting office, it was formerly called Rio Mexicano and Mexican r. Thus "Mexicano R." appears on the map accompanying Winterbotham's History, N. Y., J. Reid, 1795.

[III'-8] Striking the Guadalupe at about the nearest point, in the vicinity of present town of New Braunfels; to reach it, Rio Cibolo was crossed, and there was the place called El Beson. There is no such disparity of size between the Guadalupe and San Antonio rivers as Pike's map indicates. The former has two main forks, the western one retaining the name Guadalupe, for which Pike letters "Buenacus." The other is called Rio San Marco, or San Marcos; it falls in at or near Gonzales, about 40 m. (direct) below New Braunfels.

[III'-9] Camp in vicinity of the present town of Lockhart (?).

[III'-10] Camp short of Bastrop, a comparatively old place on the Rio Colorado, located at the point where the Spanish trail crossed the river, about 35 m. below Austin, and present seat of the county of the same name. Bastrop is a mere village, pop. about 1,650, but the name was famous in the early annals of Texas, when the Baron Bastrop had his immense estate on the Washita. Dunbar and Hunter, in their well-known Observations, etc., which formed one of the tracts accompanying Jefferson's Message to Congress of Feb. 19th, 1806, inform us that the Baron's great grant of land from the Spanish government began near the Bayou Bartholomew, about 12 leagues above the post on the Washita, and consisted of a square 12 leagues on each side, or over a million French acres (London ed. 1807, p. 83). Bastrop seems to have been a prototype of the modern "cattle barons," or "cattle kings," as they are styled, who generally manage to cover more ground than Queen Dido did when she stretched a bull's-hide around her famous city.

[III'-11] This Red r. or Rio Colorado requires attention to discriminate it from several others of the same name; they are all great streams, not to be confounded, in spite of their homonymity: 1. Red r. of the North, flowing into British America between North Dakota and Minnesota: see Part I., passim. 2. Red r., the uppermost and smallest one of three branches of the Arkansaw which have been so called. This was oftenest called Negracka r., but is now usually known as the Salt fork of the Arkansaw: see note¹⁰, p. 552. 3. Red r., the middle one of three branches of the Arkansaw which have been so called, now known as the Cimarron r.: see note¹⁰, p. 553. 4. Red r., the lowest and largest of the three branches of the Arkansaw which have been so called; it is the main fork of the Arkansaw, often known as the Red r. of Arkansas, oftenest now as the Canadian r.: see note¹⁷, p. 558. 5. The Red r. of Louisiana, the Red r. of Natchitoches, the Red r. of the Mississippi—the Red r. of Pike's Expedition, which he never found. This is the first (lowest) great branch of the Mississippi from the W., and the one now most commonly known as the Red r., without any qualifying phrase, probably never called Colorado r. One of its Indian names is Kecheahquehono, to be found on some maps. 6. The Red r. of Texas, the one Pike crosses this 16th of June near Bastrop, and which flows into the Gulf of Mexico at Matagorda, between the Guadalupe and the Brazos rivers. This is also the Rio Roxo or Rojo, and the Rio Colorado, of the Spanish, sometimes qualified as Rio Colorado del Este, or Colorado r. of the East (though it is the southernmost of the lot), to distinguish it from: 7. Red r. of the West; Rio Colorado del Occidente; Colorado r. of the West, flowing into the Gulf of California. This has seldom been called Red r., and is always now known as the Colorado, without qualifying terms, as we very early adopted the Spanish name. We hear of cowboys who "paint the town red" in carrying their jags, but that is nothing to the way these rivers have rubricated maps. Easy alliteration of the words "red" and "river" has doubtless tended to spread the phrase, in the lack of nomenclatural resources, and in ignorance of the connections of several of these rivers.

[III'-12] The "Tancards" of whom Pike speaks on the 16th and 17th, also called Tankahuas, Tonkawans, Tankaways, etc., were a remarkable people—a sort of Ishmaelites who roamed about, and seemed to belong nowhere in particular. Powell styles them a "colluvies gentium" or fusion of tribes; and what little we know of their local habitation is derived mainly from Dr. Sibley's notes, supplemented by the above passages in Pike's narrative. Dr. Sibley's historical letter to General Dearborn, dated Natchitoches, Apr. 5th, 1805, and first published with other tracts in Jefferson's Message to Congress of Feb. 19th, 1806, is one of the bases of the literature on this subject. "The Tankaways (or Tanks, as the French call them)," says Sibley, p. 45 of the London ed., 1807, "have no land, nor claim the exclusive right to any, nor have any particular place of abode, but are always moving, alternately occupying the country watered by the Trinity, Braces [Brazos], and Colerado, towards St. a FÉ. Resemble, in their dress, the Cances [Kanzas] and Hietans [Comanches], but [are] all in one horde or tribe. Their number of men is estimated at about 200; are good hunters; kill buffaloe and deer with the bow; have the best breed of horses; are alternately friends and enemies of the Spaniards. An old trader lately informed me that he has received 5000 deer skins from them in one year, exclusive of tallow, rugs and tongues. They plant nothing, but live upon fruits and flesh: are strong, athletic people, and excellent horsemen." The history of the tribe dates back of Sibley and Pike nearly a century, if the first mention of these Bedouins of the Texan sands in 1719 be taken as its starting-point. In 1876 Gatschet had collected a vocabulary of about 300 words, upon which linguistic material he classed the people as a separate stock called Tonkawa, from the Caddoan or Wakoan word tonkaweya, implying that these Indians kept by themselves, aloof from other tribes. The Tonkawan family is recognized by Powell as one of the 58 distinct linguistic stocks he adopts in his classification; his map locates the tribe agreeably with the above indications, and his text adds: "About 1847 they were engaged as scouts in the United States Army, and from 1860-62 (?) were in the Indian Territory; after the secession war till 1884 they lived in temporary camps near Fort Griffin, Shackleford County, Texas, and in October, 1884, they removed to the Indian Territory (now on Oakland Reserve). In 1884 there were 78 individuals living; associated with them were 19 Lipan Apache" (Seventh Ann. Rep. Bur. Ethn., 1885-86, published 1891, p. 126). Two other Tonkawan tribes, the Mayes and Yakwal, are extinct or merged in the former; and several minor bands have been known by name.

[III'-13] The full style of this river was el Rio de los Brazos de Dios, River of the Arms of God, which seemed neither blasphemous nor sacrilegious to the admirable fanatics who so solemnly theographized geography in their excursions for the salvation of souls, ad majorem Dei gloriam. It is difficult for us to realize what a queer lot they were, with their "Monastery Road" to the "Opening of the Virgin," their Corpus Christi in one place and Sangre de Cristo elsewhere, Holy Ghost bay, Todos Santos collectively when they ran out of individual saints, and Rio Trinidad for the whole Trinity after the members of the divine family had been separately complimented. It is fortunate that we cannot commit the intellectual anachronism of putting ourselves in the place of these very sincere servants of a very moderate polytheism, though the result be that the Brazos is also called Brasses and Braces r., bringing up a ludicrous association of ideas with the buttons and suspenders which uphold our trousers, ad majorem pudorem virorum. Other names of this stream are RiviÈre Ste. ThÉrÈse (or Rio Santa Teresa), and R. Maligne; thus the phrase "St. ThÉreseor or Maline R." appears on the map in Winterbotham's History, 1795. The river is the largest one of the series Pike is crossing; it drains a great area in Texas from the Llanos Estacados or Staked Plains to the Gulf, which it reaches between Galveston and Matagorda. The point at which the old Spanish trail struck it is indicated by Pike's mention of the Little Brazos, a sort of bayou or side-sluice which runs close to the E. side of the main stream for a great distance. The crossing was near the mouth of this bayou.

[III'-14] The streams passed to-day are tributaries of the Brazos, the larger one mentioned being that afterward known as Navasota r., which falls in a good way below, at or near a place which was once named Washington. The high land on the other side, on which was camp, represents some of the elevation which forms the water-shed between Brazos and Trinity rivers, and which is passed over next day. The clause of the text reading "impassable four miles. Overflows swamps, ponds, etc.," I suppose may be read "impassable for (some) miles (along its course, where it) overflows (in) swamps, ponds, etc."

[III'-15] The original Rio Trinidad has become better known under its equivalent English name of the Trinity, and there is a place lower down on it which is or was called Trinidad or Trinity (now Swartwout?). It empties into Galveston bay, and so into the Gulf. The Spanish trail from the crossing led on to a place called Crockett, in Houston Co., at or near which camp of the 21st was pitched. A little above the crossing, on the E. bank of the river, we are informed by Dr. Sibley, was the residence of the Keyes or Keychias, a Caddoan tribe which in 1805 mustered 60 men. These are now called Kichais, and now or lately consisted of about 60 persons.

[III'-16] For Nacogdoches see next note. The above lacuna in the text may be presumptively supplied from Pike's map, where the post is marked to that effect.

[III'-17] Natches and Neches are obviously the same Indian word, the root of which appears in Natchitoches and various other names. The two have run through the usual range of variation in spelling in the course of writing and printing; but of late years the form Natchez has become fixed as the name of the well-known city on the Mississippi below Vicksburg, while the designation of the river has perhaps acquired stability in the form of Neches. The latter is the principal stream between the Trinity and the Sabine; it runs south approximately parallel with both, and falls into the Gulf through Sabine l., as the Sabine does; in fact, it is collateral with the Sabine, and has been considered a branch of the latter. The Spanish trail crossed it high up. Its own main branch is that eastern one known as Rio Angelina or Angeline r., which Pike crosses on the 24th; and E. of a small branch of the latter was the site of Nacogdoches. It is now an obscure village, pop. about 1,200, seat of the county of its own name, which occupies a space between Angelina and Atoyac rivers; but the place is an old one, which, like all the others which the Spanish trail went through, has a long ethnic, civil, and military history. Neches or Natches r. is to be particularly noted as the ancient seat of a tribe of Indians who, though a mere handful a century ago, left their name as a legacy for all time. Sibley (l. c., p. 43) speaks of "a small river, a branch of the Sabine, called the Naches," on which lived the "Inies, or Tachies (called indifferently by both names)," and adds: "From the latter name the name of the province of Tachus or Taxus is derived," i.e., Texas. Among the permutations of the word and its derivatives not the least singular is the English adjective and noun Texican—a word obviously formed upon the model of Mexican from Mexico. I suppose this is modern, and what may be termed cowboy dialect; I used to hear it constantly when I was in those parts.

[III'-18] Three lacunÆ in this sentence, two of which I fill, omitting the other, which was a long dash in place of the Frenchman's name. We seem bound by Pike's map to supply "Toyac" as the missing name of the river he means, though there is certainly no such large river as he lays down between the Neches and the Sabine. The map is evidently at fault here, for he runs the Neches into Trinity r., and thus into Galveston bay, and his "Rio Toyac" comes nearer exhibiting the proper relations of the Neches with the Sabine. Exactly what his great "Rio Toyac" may pass for is thus questionable, but the "little river" of the text, which he crosses after leaving Nacogdoches, must be the present Atoyac r. (the branch of the Angelina which separates Nacogdoches Co. from San Augustin Co., for the most part). The route continues to-day past San Augustin, which was on the Spanish trail, and on or near another small branch of the Angelina, which runs between San Augustin Co. and Sabine Co. The place where he stopped on the 28th, only three hours' march from the Sabine, and where he found both Frenchmen and Americans, was evidently the exact locality of which Sibley speaks concerning certain Caddoan Indians known as Aliche, Eyeish, or Eyish. They were then on the verge of extinction, having been in 1801 reduced by the smallpox till only 25 of them were left in 1805. Writing in the latter year he says (l. c., p. 43) that "they were, some years ago, a considerable nation, and lived on a bayou which bears their name, which the road from Nachitoch to Nacogdoches crosses, about 12 miles west of Sabine r., on which a few French and American families are settled." These data fix Pike's camp with precision.

[III'-19] The former office of the Sabine or Mexican r. in delimiting Spanish from American possessions continues to-day in so far as it represents the boundary between Texas and Louisiana. On crossing it, our fervid young patriot passed from the military protection of his Catholic Majesty to that of his Brother Jonathan and Uncle Sam—the former of these two, by the way, being as actual a person as King Charles IV. of Spain, and no other than Jonathan Trumbull of Connecticut. The Spanish trail entered what is now the State of Louisiana at a point between Hamilton and Sabinetown, both of which were places on the Texan side of the river. The crossing was but little above Sabinetown, and between two small watercourses known as Bayou San Patricio and Bayou San Miguel, both running in Sabine Co., La. His camp of the 30th seems to have been between Bayou Miguel and the next below, now called Lennan; and these two I suppose to be the ones he lays down as running into the Sabine together, as they do, pretty nearly.

[III'-20] General Wilkinson's "marquee," the location of which Pike took pleasure in imagining, was the large tent used by field and general officers; the name is not often heard now, though the word is hardly obsolete. Old Fort Jesup was built directly on the continuation of the Spanish trail in Louisiana, rather less than half-way from the Sabine to Red r. A short distance S. of this was a place whose name appears on various maps as Many, Manny, Maney, and by accident Mary—the latter on Emory's, 1857-58, which I think is one of the most accurate and altogether useful maps ever drawn to a scale of 1 : 6,000,000. A glance at this shows Pike's trail from the Rio Grande to the Red r. in all its main features; and though many desirable details are necessarily lacking, not one is misleading.

[III'-21] This short clause brings up a number of interesting points. The hill is among the slight elevations which together form the water-shed between the Sabine and Red r. This rise of ground corresponds in a general way with the boundary between Sabine and Nachitoches cos. in Louisiana, parting the numberless and mostly unnamed small waters which make on either hand for their respective outlets in the two rivers. Pike is already on the Red River side, among the runs which discharge into the body of water known as the Spanish l., and which finds its way into Red r. by various channels. This is the place where "anciently stood," as he informs us, the village of the mysterious tribe of Indians he calls Adyes and Adayes. These have a long history; but the literature of the subject is mainly a presentation of our ignorance. Powell says that the first mention of them occurs in the Naufragios of CabeÇa de Vaca, who calls them Atayos, about 1540, and that they are also noted by various early French explorers of the Mississippi, as d'Iberville and Joutel. The fortified camp of which Pike speaks was built in 1715 and known as the Mission of Adayes. From documents preserved in San Antonio de Bexar, examined by Mr. A. S. Gatschet in 1886, it appears that 14 Adai families emigrated to a place S. of that town in 1792; these were afterward lost sight of. According to Baudry de Lozieres, as cited by Powell, 100 Adaizans were left at home in 1802. Turning to Sibley (l. c. p. 42), we find that in 1805 there were 20 men and more women living "about 40 miles from Natchitoches, below the Yattassees [a tribe that lived on Bayou Pierre or Stony creek], on a lake called Lac Macdon, which communicated with the division of Red river that passes by Bayau Pierre. They live at or near where their ancestors have lived from time immemorial. They being the nearest nation to the old Spanish fort, or Mission of Adaize, that place was named after them, being about 20 miles from them, to the south." Dr. Sibley collected a vocabulary of about 250 words, the sole basis we have for the modern scientific classification of the tribe, upon the only sure principle of natural generation as indicated by mother-tongues. "Their language differs from all others," says Dr. Sibley, "and is so difficult to speak or understand, that no [other] nation can speak ten words of it: but they all speak Caddo, and most of them French." He adds that they were always attached to the latter, with whom they sided against the Natchez; and that after the Natchez massacre of 1798, while the Spanish occupied Fort Adaize, the priests took much pains in vain to make them believe what was told them about Catholic dogma. This is practically the sum of what is known of these evidently intelligent and manly people; the rest of the literature is mainly the conclusions reached upon the subject by various authors. The consensus of opinion very properly classifies the Adaize, Adaizi, Adaise, Adaes, Adees, Adayes, Adyes, Adahi, or Adai, as a distinct linguistic stock, lately called the Adaizan family, whose affinities, more or less remote, are with the Caddoan.

[III'-22] Natchitoches, or some other form of this word, was originally the name of a certain tribe of Indians of the Southern Caddoan family, and of the island on which they dwelt in Red r., at the site of the town which later arose there and is still so called. We hear of these people and their place very early in French colonial history. In Sept., 1688, Henri de Tonti was visited at his Fort St. Louis on the Illinois, by Couture, one of his men whom he had left at Arkansas Post in 1686, who apprized him of La Salle's tragic death. He set off (he says, in Oct., 1689—probably a wrong date from memory) in Dec., 1688, descended the Illinois and Miss. rivers to Red r., and went up this, reaching the Natchitoches Feb. 17th and the Caddodaquis Mar. 28th, 1689: so Parkman's La Salle, etc., p. 439. He was told that some of the assassins or those in the plot to murder their leader were at a village of the Naouadiches, some 85 leagues S. W., whither he went, but found no trace of Hiens and his confederates. After much suffering, including an illness at his Arkansas Post, he regained Fort St. Louis Sept., 1689: Wallace, Hist. Ill. and La., 1893, p. 188 seq. According to this authority the present town dates from Jan., 1717, when Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, governor of Louisiana under Crozat, sent a sergeant and some soldiers to establish a post on the island, which was commanded ca. 1721-28 by Louis Juchereau de St. Denis (b. Quebec, Sept. 18th, 1676, d. post 1731). This notable character, uncle of D'Iberville's wife, Chevalier, etc., is the "Mons. St. Dennie" of Sibley's notice of the Natchitoches, p. 49, where it is said he was still in command after the Natchez massacre of 1728; "the Indians called him the Big Foot, were fond of him, for he was a brave man." According to GayarrÉ, Hist. La., II. p. 355, the foreign population of Natchitoches was 811 by a census made under Gov. O'Reilly, ca. 1769, or when the French had been in Louisiana 70 years. Sibley, writing at Natchitoches Apr. 5th, 1805, says that an elderly French gentleman then living had shortly before informed him that the informant remembered when the Natchitoches were 600 men strong: this should represent ca. 3,000 total souls.

[III'-23] Constant Freeman of Massachusetts had been a captain in the Revolutionary army when he was made major of the 1st Regiment of Artillerists and Engineers, Feb. 28th, 1795; promoted to be lieutenant-colonel of Artillerists, Apr. 1st, 1802; transferred to corps of Artillery, May 12th, 1814; and honorably discharged June 15th, 1815; he had been brevetted colonel July 10th, 1812, and he died Feb. 27th, 1824.

Elijah Strong of Connecticut was an ensign of the 1st sub-Legion Feb. 23d, 1793; lieutenant, July 1st, 1794; transferred to 1st Infantry, Nov. 1st, 1796; captain, Oct. 23d, 1799; major, 7th Infantry, Dec. 15th, 1808; and died June 9th, 1811.

Charles Wollstonecraft of England was appointed from Pennsylvania to be a lieutenant of the 2d Artillerists and Engineers, June 4th, 1798; he became a lieutenant of Artillerists, Apr. 1st, 1802; captain, Mar. 15th, 1805; was transferred to the corps of Artillery, May 12th, 1814; on the 15th of March, 1815, he was brevetted major for 10 years' faithful service in one grade, and Sept. 28th, 1817, he died.

Thomas A. Smith of Virginia was appointed from Georgia a second lieutenant of Artillerists, Dec. 15th, 1803; became first lieutenant, Dec. 31st, 1805, and captain of Rifles, May 3d, 1808; he was a brigadier general in 1814, resigned Nov. 10th, 1818, and died in a few weeks.

[III'-24] In the orig. ed. this weather diary occupied an unpaged leaf following p. 278 of the main text of Pt. 3, being thus pp. 279, 280. I leave it in the same relative position, and pass it without further remark.

[IV'-1] Chapter IV., which I introduce to accommodate Pike's Observations on New Spain, as the article may be briefly entitled, consists of the leading piece of the App. to Pt. 3 of the orig. ed., pp. 1-51; it had no number, but as it came first and was followed by a piece presented as No. 2, it is of course to be taken as No. 1, pro forma. The original heading was: Geographical, Statistical, and General Observations made by Capt. Z. M. Pike, on the Interior Provinces of New Spain, from Louisiana to the Vice Royalty, and between the Pacific Ocean, Gulph of California and the Atlantic Ocean or Gulph of Mexico. This was by far the most important article in the whole work, bringing news of great public interest in 1810. Much of it was original; how much of it was borrowed without acknowledgement could only be said after careful examination of prior works on the same subject. It should be compared with Humboldt and Bonpland's Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain, with a Physical and Geographical Atlas, etc., 2 vols., 4to, with atlas, folio, of 20 plates. Pike's two maps of Mexico will be best understood in connection with the same source of information: see Memoir, anteÀ.

[IV'-2] Nueva EspaÑa (New Spain) is a term whose geographical and political connotation has varied much. As the colonial name of what we call Mexico it was first applied to Yucatan and Tabasco by Grijalva, in 1518, and next extended to all the Cortesian conquests. The kingdom of New Spain proper was a region under the audience of Mexico, which corresponded closely to the modern states of Yucatan, Campeche, Tabasco, Vera Cruz, Hidalgo, Guanajuato, Michoacan, Colima, Mexico, Morelos, Tlascala, Puebla, Guerrero, Oajaca, and Chiapas. The viceroyalty of New Spain, dating from 1535, when the first viceroy, Mendoza, entered in possession, was much more comprehensive, as it embraced all the Spanish possessions in Central and North America, from the S. boundary of Costa Rica, as well as the West Indies and the Spanish East Indies. Its political composition was the five audiences of Mexico, Guadalajara, Guatemala, Santo Domingo, and Manila, and the captaincy-general of Florida. During the eighteenth century the East Indies and Guatemala were excluded from the viceroyalty. The viceroyalty of New Spain, as the term was most generally used, long consisted of the three "kingdoms" of New Spain, New Galicia, and New Leon. This corresponded to modern Mexico, plus then undefined territories of Texas, New Mexico, and California, now parts of the United States. On the separation in 1793 of the Provincias Internas or Internal Provinces, the viceroyalty of New Spain corresponded to the present Mexico, plus the Californias, but minus southern Coahuila, Durango, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, and Sonora. Spanish viceroyalty ceased in 1821, but "New Spain" was not finally "Mexico" till 1824 (during the Empire under Iturbide, 1822-28). The term "Provincias Internas" was vaguely used, as early as the seventeenth century, for the northern parts of New Spain or Mexico. "In 1777 (by order of Aug. 22, 1776) a new government was formed under this name, completely separated from the viceroyalty of New Spain, and comprising Nueva Vizcaya ([New Biscay] Durango and Chihuahua), Coahuila, Texas, New Mexico, Sinaloa, Sonora, and the Californias. The Capital was Arizpe in Sonora, and the audience of Guadalajara retained its judicial authority; the governor was also military commandant. In 1786 and 1787-93 the government was again subordinate to the viceroy. When the final separation was made in 1793, California was attached to Mexico," Cent. Cyclop., 1894, s. v., p. 828. This last "New Spain" is Pike's; and the present article is mainly devoted to the Provincias Internas of this New Spain—excepting that nothing is said of the Californias.

[IV'-3] El Reino de Nueva Galicia, or New Galicia, was a prime division of colonial New Spain, whose limits fluctuated, like those of most Mexican political divisions, but for most of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries corresponded nearly to the modern states of Jalisco, Aguas Calientes, and Zacatecas, plus a small part of San Luis PotosÍ. The audience of Guadalajara, originating in 1548, had jurisdiction over this Nueva Galicia; in 1786 the latter became the intendency of Guadalajara; and after 1792 the Provincias Internas were judicially subordinate to the audience of Guadalajara. Pike's "administration of Guadalaxara" corresponds inexactly to the present State of Jalisco or Xalisco. This lies on the Pacific coast, bordered by the states of Sinaloa, Durango, Zacatecas, Aguas Calientes, Guanajuato, Michoacan, and Colima; area, 27,261 sq. m.; pop., 1,280,500; capital, Guadalajara. The situation of this city is lat. 21° N., long. 103° 10´ W.; it was founded in 1542, and is now the second largest city in Mexico, pop. 95,000. That "one of the Gusman family," who Pike says built it "in 1551" was probably NuÑo or NuÑez Bertrande Guzman, b. Guadalajara (in Spain) about 1485, d. there 1544; he was the enemy of CortÉs, and the conqueror of New Galicia. Rio Grande de Santiago is the largest river in the state, and Lago de Chapala, which lies mostly within its limits, is the largest lake in Mexico; area, over 1,300 sq. m.

[IV'-4] Valladolid was the name of an old Castilian province in Spain, and of the capital of that province; it was applied to a political division in Mexico which has entirely disappeared, though corresponding to some extent to the present State of Michoacan. The capital of this was also called Valladolid until 1828, when it was changed to present Morelia, in honor of the patriot priest JosÉ Maria Morelos y Pavon, b. there Sept. 30th, 1765; joined the revolt of Hidalgo, 1810; was captured Nov. 15th, 1815; executed Dec. 22d, 1815, near the City of Mexico.

[IV'-5] This administration has been so changed and subdivided that it is not easily compared in a word with existing divisions which represent its former extent. In general terms it was a south central portion of Mexico with an extensive Pacific coast line, but cut off from the Atlantic by Vera Cruz and Puebla, and bordered on the N. by San Luis PotosÍ, etc. The present State of Mexico is an area of somewhat over 9,000 sq. m., bounded by QuerÉtaro, Hidalgo, Tlascala, Puebla, Morelos, Guerrero, and Michoacan. Its capital is Toluca; for the City of Mexico, capital of the republic, is in a small Federal District set apart from the rest of the state (like our District of Columbia), with an area of only 463 sq. m. The pop. of the present State of Mexico is about 830,000; the capital city of the republic has a pop. of 330,000; its situation is lat. 19° 25´ 45´´ N., long. 99° 7´ 18´´ W., at an alt. of about 7,500 feet.

[IV'-6] The present State of Oajaca has an extensive Pacific coast-line on the S., Guerrero and a small part of Puebla on the W., Puebla and Vera Cruz on the N., Vera Cruz and Chiapas on the E.; area, about 28,800 sq. m.; pop. about 816,000. The capital city of the same name is on the Rio Verde or Atoyac, about 200 m. S. E. of the City of Mexico; pop. 29,000.

[IV'-7] Vera Cruz is the long, narrow maritime state of Mexico, with the Gulf on the E., Tamaulipas on the N., and then bordered on the W., S., and E., successively, by San Luis PotosÍ, Hidalgo, Puebla, Oajaca, Chiapas, and Tabasco. The land is low along the Gulf, or in the tierra caliente, but soon rises to the mountainous tierra fria of most of the state. The whole area is 27,450 sq. m.; pop. 642,000. The long-famous seaport of Vera Cruz is the principal city, pop. 24,000, in lat. 19° 12´ N., long. 96° 9´ E. This was founded near the present site by CortÉs in May, 1519, by the name of Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz; site changed to the Rio de la Antigua in 1525; to present position in 1599; became City of Vera Cruz in 1615; was taken by the French in 1838, by the Americans in 1848, by the Allies in 1861. The celebrated Picacho of Orizaba, 10 m. N. of Orizaba, alt. 18,314 feet, is on the boundary between Vera Cruz and Puebla. This is the highest mountain of N. America, except Mt. St. Elias.

[IV'-8] Present State of Puebla is entirely cut off from the sea, being wedged in among Vera Cruz on the E., Oajaca on the S., Guerrero on the S. W., and Morelos, Mexico, Tlascala, and Hidalgo, on the W.; area 12,740 sq. m.; pop. lately, 845,000; capital, La Puebla de los Angeles, so called from a pious taradiddle; pop. about 110,000; it is a very old city, founded about 1530, and was taken by the French in 1863. The famous peak of Popocatepetl, or Smoking mt., a volcano about 17,800 feet high, is on the boundary between this state and Mexico, 45 m. S. E. of the city of the latter name; and N. of that peak is another volcano, Ixtaccihuatl or the "Woman in White," over 16,000 feet high.

[IV'-9] Guanajuato is a small central state, surrounded by Zacatecas, San Luis PotosÍ, QuerÉtaro, Michoacan, Jalisco, and Aguas Calientes; area, 11,370 sq. m., pop. over 1,000,000; capital of same name, about lat. 21° 1´ N., long. 100° 35´ W.; pop. 52,000.

[IV'-10] Zacatecas has altered less than some of the administrations, the present state being bounded N. by Coahuila, N. and N. W. by Durango, W. and S. W. and S. by Jalisco, S. by Aguas Calientes, E. by San Luis PotosÍ; area, 25,230 sq. m.; pop. 585,640; capital of same name, about lat. 22° 40´ N., pop. about 60,000.

[IV'-11] Pike's "St. Louis" corresponds, though inexactly, to present State of San Luis PotosÍ, lying among Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, and a small extent of Vera Cruz on the E., Zacatecas on the W., Coahuila on the N., and Guanajuato, QuerÉtaro, and Hidalgo on the S.; area, 24,450 sq. m.; pop. about 550,500; capital of the same name, 223 m. N. N. W. of City of Mexico; pop. 62,600.

[IV'-12] Nuevo Santander, whose history is something of a political curiosity, was originally a division of colonial New Spain, and continued to be known as a colony until 1786. The extent was about that of the present State of Tamaulipas, bounded substantially as Pike says, though it once overreached the Rio Grande into what is now Texas. Tamaulipas has Texas on the N., separated by the Rio Grande; the Gulf of Mexico on the E.; Nuevo Leon and Coahuila on the W.; San Luis PotosÍ on the S. W. and S.; with a small extent of Vera Cruz on the extreme S.; area, 29,350 sq. m.; pop. about 173,000; capital, Ciudad Victoria. The river, on one of whose headwaters this city is situated, falls into the Gulf near the Barra de Santander, as it is still called, about 60 Mexican leagues S. of the mouth of the Rio Grande, and rather less than 40 such leagues N. of Tampico; its length is supposed to be about 150 m.

[IV'-13] Or Nuevo Reino de Leon, as it was long styled. This was a division of colonial New Spain, corresponding to the present State of Nuevo Leon, but, when a kingdom, including certain portions of what are now Tamaulipas and San Luis PotosÍ; it was attached to the intendency of the latter in 1786. New Leon still has Tamaulipas along the whole of its E. border, excepting that its northern panhandle is environed by Coahuila, which thence extends on its W. side to San Luis PotosÍ, which latter thence curves to meet Tamaulipas at the end of the southern panhandle. The shape of some of the Mexican states would show, in the absence of all history, that earthquakes and volcanoes were not the only agitations against which New Spain contended in the settling of some of her geographical problems. Area of New Leon, 24,000 sq. m.; pop. 272,000; capital, Monterey: for Pike's location of Monterey on "Tiger" r., see note³³, p. 682, May 18th, 1807. The position of this city is about lat. 25° 40´ N., long. 100° 25´ W.; pop. 46,000; it is best known to us as a prize captured by the U. S. forces under Z. Taylor, Sept. 23d, 1846. The Count of Monterey was one Caspar de ZuÑiga y Azevedo, b. ca. 1540, d. Lima, Peru, Feb. 10th, 1606, viceroy of Mexico, Oct. 5th, 1595-1603, of Peru, Nov. 28th, 1604, till death; Monterey bay, Cal., named for him. The American officer whom Pike names was Edward D. Turner of Massachusetts, who entered the army as an ensign of the 2d Inf. Mar. 4th, 1791; became a lieutenant July 13th, 1792: captain of the 2d sub-Legion Nov. 11th, 1793, and of the 2d Inf. Nov. 1st, 1796; served as brigade inspector from Nov. 1st, 1799, to Apr. 1st, 1802; was retained as a captain of the 1st Inf. from the latter date, and resigned Nov. 30th, 1805.

[IV'-14] This comes at the end of the present dissertation, when Pike has finished with his account of the Internal Provinces, to which he now proceeds. Two of these, Sonora and Sinaloa, are "internal" to the extent of bordering on the Gulf of California and not on the high sea. These he never saw; those he traversed correspond to the present three Mexican states of Chihuahua, Durango, and Coahuila, and to our Territory of New Mexico, State of Texas, and a small part of the State of Louisiana. Most of the commentary that would otherwise be here offered has already been put upon Pike's itinerary through these regions; but some points will come up for further criticism or explanation.

[IV'-15] New Mexico, as long as it was a province of New Spain, could not be satisfactorily bounded, for the simple reason that its boundaries were never clearly defined. Pike's ascription of lat. 44° N. sends it up to the shadowy border of "the Oregan"—that No Man's Land till Lewis and Clark descended the Columbia to the South Sea. This is no place to open the celebrated quarrel over boundaries that hovered in the air like clouds on political paper; suffice it, that when the Oregan became an undisputed possession of any nation, it already belonged to the United States. Away from the Pacific coast, Spanish dominion never exceeded 38° N. in fact, whatever it may have been on paper at any time. Shortly after Pike's time, i.e., from Feb. 22d, 1819, an intelligible theoretical boundary was agreed upon by the United States and Spain, though it was never run upon the ground. This line, aside from any question of the still unsettled boundary of Texas, ran from the Red r. to the Arkansaw r. on the meridian of 100° W. from Greenwich, up the Arkansaw to its source, thence due N. on whatever the meridian might prove to be to lat. 42° N., thence on that parallel due W. to the Pacific. Spanish Nuevo Mejico was quietly captured without resistance by the U. S. Army of the West under Kearny in 1846; formally ceded in 1848; organized as a U. S. territory in 1850; its southern boundary changed by the acquisition of the Gadsden purchase and definitely established in 1853; Arizona detached on the W. in 1863 along the meridian of 109° W.; eastern boundary, the meridian of 103° W.; present area, 122,460 sq. m.; pop. in 1890 given as 153,593. Thus, to all intents and practical purposes, Pike's "New Mexico" is our New Mexico and Arizona, and thence indefinitely northward. Present Arizona has an area of 112,920 sq. m.; pop. 59,620 by the census of 1890. In December, 1863, Governor John N. Goodwin and Secretary Richard C. McCormick, with other new Territorial officials, entered into possession on the ground, and formally proclaimed their functions. They proceeded to establish the capital on Granite cr., a tributary of the Rio Verde, and named it Prescott, for the historian, after having deliberated whether to call it Audubon, for the ornithologist. The log house built for the gubernatorial, secretarial, and all other functions was there when I last saw it, in 1892, and still the residence of one of the original party, Judge Fleury, who in the course of time exercised his versatile talent in every capacity, from cook to acting governor. Arizona is thus politically in its 32d year now (1895). Its historic period dates from 1540 or 1536; the prehistoric compass of time, since it was first inhabited, is very likely not exceeded by the Christian era—to judge from recent exhumations in the valley of the Gila, revealing a cluster of cities 6 m. long. Those who named the present capital Phoenix builded better than they knew—the name, I mean, not the mud hovels and wicker-work jacals which adorn some portions of that new center of political intrigue to which were lately shifted the inevitable dissensions that arose between the northern mountaineers and the southern deserteers.

[IV'-16] To correct in detail all such statements would hardly come within the scope of cursory notes, and I usually pass them over, as anyone can easily inform himself of the adjustment required for geographical precision. But in this particular instance it is well to remember that Pike had acquired an erroneous notion of the source of the Yellowstone, from considering the South Platte to be the whole Platte, thus throwing the North Platte out of court. Having no knowledge of this great river, he fancied there was some spot whence he could walk in a day to the source of any one of the four he names—a feat for which the seven-leagued boots of fable would be required: see note⁵, p. 524. For some particulars concerning the Rio Grande, see note³², p. 642. To the different names which the river had in different regions, add Rio Abajo and Rio Arriba for lower and upper sections, not well defined but conveniently recognized, of Rio del Norte above El Paso. Pike is quite right in the matter of Rio Bravo—a name never applied to the river in any portion of its course which he traversed in New Mexico.

[IV'-17] Whatever the real implication of names bestowed upon actual or alleged branches of the Colorado by the early explorers from whom Pike drew his inspiration, as Escalante 1777, it is not difficult to identify those he uses, even when his text does not agree with his map, as happens in some cases. From the Rio Gila, for which see note¹⁹, we will follow his map upward. 1. "Rio S^n. Maria" of the map, not in the text. The name Santa Maria held for many years for the branch of the Colorado now called Bill Williams' fork. This is composed of two main streams, to one of which the name Santa Maria is now usually restricted; the other is called Big Sandy. Bill Williams' fork does not head in Bill Williams' mountain, being cut off from that by the Rio Verde, etc.; its basin lies entirely W. of Aubrey and Chino valleys, and of the Prescott plains. This river drains westward from the Santa Maria, Granite, Juniper, Weaver, and other ranges in Arizona, and falls into the Colorado from the E. at a place called Aubrey City, the site of which was pointed out to me by a native when I navigated the Colorado in 1865, though I saw nothing like a city. 2. There is no mention in the text, nor any sign on the map, of the Colorado Chiquito, otherwise Little Colorado r., though this is a large water-course which, when it runs, drains an extensive area in N. Arizona. This stream heads about the White, Mogollon, and other ranges on or near the confines of New Mexico; receives from the ZuÑian mts. its main fork, Rio Puerco of the West; flows N. W. past (E. of) the San Francisco and Bill Williams' peaks, and falls into the Colorado from the S. E., well up in the Grand CaÑon of the latter; its own lower courses are terribly caÑonous for a great distance, its bed being riven in chasms comparable even with the awful abyss of the Colorado itself. 3. Non-appearance of the Colorado Chiquito affects to some extent the identification of the river called in the text "de los Anamas or Nabajoa" and lettered on the map "Rio Jasquevilla." This is laid down as a large eastern branch of the Colorado which falls in above the Grand CaÑon, and on which lived the "Nahjo" (Navajo) and "Cosninas" (Cojnino) Indians, and south of which were the "Indiens Moqui, Independent since 1680," in four villages lettered "Oraybe," "Mosanis," "Songoapt," and "Gualpi"—for, though the Moki legend is set astride of the river itself, it belongs to these four villages S. of the river. The stream in question certainly was meant for the Colorado Chiquito; but most of its ascribed characters are those of Rio San Juan of N. W. New Mexico, N. E. Arizona, and S. E. Utah. The leaning toward the Colorado Chiquito is shown by the location of the Cojnino Indians on this stream, and its passage next N. of the circle of ten peaks lettered "Sierra de los Cosninas"—these indicating the San Francisco, Bill Williams', and other mountains of central Arizona; but identification with the San Juan is possible by the location of the Navajos on its headwaters and of the Mokis further S., as well as by its entrance into the Colorado above the Grand CaÑon—for Pike charts the upper end of the caÑon as the "Puerto del Bacorelli." Rio San Juan heads in N. W. New Mexico, next W. of the Rio Grande basin, having numerous collateral sources there and in contiguous parts of N. E. Arizona and S. W. Colorado; hence it enters S. E. Utah and runs to the Colorado around the base of Mt. Navajo, thus including in its ramifications adjacent corners of two states and two territories; two of its affluents retain to this day the names Rio de las Animas and Rio Navajo, respectively. Among its larger tributaries may be mentioned Rio Chusco, Chasco, or Chaco, and especially Rio Chelly—the latter being that one the mystery of whose famous CaÑon de Chelly was fathomed by Captain J. H. Simpson in 1859. The two strange words which Pike uses in this connection, "Bacorelli" and "Jasquevilla," both treated in the Index, are not the same as Jicarilla, present name of certain mountains in Arizona and of a certain tribe of Indians called in Arizona "Hickory" Apaches. 4. The fact that the Grand CaÑon of the Colorado is indicated on Pike's map may be certified in more than one way: (a) He marks below it certain "Indiens Chemequaba," i.e., Chemehuevi, a Shoshonean tribe then as now living in Arizona below the caÑon, and thus isolated from their parent stock among Apaches of Athapascan lineage. (b) Pike's term "Cosninas," for certain Indians and mountains, is still an alternative name for the Cosnino, Cojnino, or Cataract CaÑon, a side-spur of the Grand CaÑon, and still the residence of a curious cave-dwelling tribe called Yavasupai, Havasupi, or Aguazul, who numbered 214 when I visited them in 1881. (c) The trans-continental route via the Arkansaw and Colorado rivers, which Pike suggests as the "best communication from ocean to ocean," need not be supposed to run through the Grand CaÑon, but rather to approximate that lately achieved by the Atlantic and Pacific R. R., connecting on the E. with the A., T., and S. F. R. R., on the W. with the So. Cala. R. R. 5. West of the Grand CaÑon Pike traces a problematical "Rio de los Panami des surfurcas on ignore l Embouchure," without beginning or end. This suggests Virgin r., whose junction with the Colorado in Nevada was then unknown. 6. Above the Grand CaÑon, Pike forks the Colorado distinctly into two main branches, referable of course to the Grand and the Green rivers. 7. The main course of Grand r. is lettered "Rio de los Duimas," for which read Las Animas—but not "Los Anamas or Nabajoa" of Pike's text, already accounted for. This "Duimas" may be taken as intended to represent the whole course of Grand r. and its branches, as the Gunnison, etc. 8. The main course of the "Duimas" or Grand r. is what Pike means by Rio "de los Dolores" of the text, nameless on his map. This is the Dolores r. of present geography, running chiefly in Colorado, but joining the Grand in Utah. Pike forks this; one of these forks is the continuation of the Dolores; the other is present San Miguel r. of Colorado. 9. Green r. is the one lettered "Rio Zanguananos," as the main continuation of the Colorado itself. This is correct, though the singular S-shaped course in which it is laid down is so far out of drawing that the two branches of it which he names are thrown in the wrong direction. These two are the San Rafael and San Xavier of both text and map. The first one of them is present San Rafael r.; and if we take Pike's San Xavier to be the next above on the same side, it corresponds to Price r. We must not seek for any streams higher up the Grand than Price r.; the early Spanish travelers did not get very far in that direction; and Pike sets all these streams considerably S. of Great Salt l., not beyond the latitude he assigns to the head of the Rio Grande. The old Spanish trail from Colorado into Utah passed a certain Sierra La Sal, or Salt mt., which is situated near the confluence of the Green and the Grand; continued across both these rivers a little above their junction, and so on westward between the San Rafael r. and the San Xavier or Price r., into the basin of present Sevier r. and Sevier l. Now Pike sets his "Montaigne de Sel," or Mountain of Salt, close to the main Rio Zanguananos or Green r., and directly against the mouth of his San Rafael. This particular combination could not have been accidental, and seems to show what was really mapped, though so distortedly. As intimated in beginning this note, I have attempted identifications without prejudice to any original implication of the Spanish records, but solely according to what I find in Pike. The early names themselves seem open to the interpretation here offered, and I know from several futile attempts which I made that Pike's geography of the Colorado basin would be hard to square with the facts in any other way. Should the present identifications be acceptable, some hitherto unsurmounted difficulties would prove to have been overcome.

[IV'-18] This paragraph is contradicted by the map, on which "Rio de S^ta. Buenaventura" runs W. into a nameless lake, S. of a certain Lac de Timpanagos, and is the first river, N. and W. of Green r., that does not connect with the Colorado. The Buenaventura is a ghost-river which haunted geography for many years. Nothing like such a river as this was represented to be exists—it is as much of a myth in Utah and California as Lahontan's fabulous Long r. in Minnesota and Dakota. But it is a rule with hardly an exception that every myth has some basis of fact. In so far as Pike's Buenaventura represents anything in nature, I imagine it to be an adumbration of Sevier r., and its sink to be Lake Sevier, in the western part of Utah, S. of Great Salt l. True, the Buenaventura is laid down very much out of the actual course of the Sevier; but not more wrongly than Green r. is, and the very curious way in which the Sevier winds about to reach its sink would hardly have been discovered and correctly delineated by those early travelers in the "Great American Desert." The nameless lake itself is not very far out of the way on Pike's map. Possibly also, the mysterious river, "whose mouth is unknown," may be intended for some section of the Sevier; for, if we were to connect this trace with Pike's Buenaventura, we should have a recognizable representation of the Sevier. But Pike heads his Rio S. Buenaventura, by a principal branch called "Rio de Sⁿ. Clemente," in that portion of the continental divide he marks "Sierra Verde," i.e., Green mts., also the source of present Green r. We should note further in this connection the appearance on Pike's map of New Mexico of a certain river running northward, lettered "Rio de Piedro Amaretto del Missouri." Here, "Amaretto" is a mistake of the engraver for Amarillo, the phrase being Sp. Piedra Amarilla = F. Pierre Jaune or Roche Jaune = E. Yellow Stone, a principal branch of the Missouri. As we have repeatedly seen already, Pike was determined to interlock the headwaters of the Yellowstone, Platte, Arkansaw, and Rio Grande in some one spot in the Rocky mts.—and here we have it, just over the divide that separates these Atlantic waters collectively from those of the general basin of the Colorado. Observe, also, how nearly the dotted trail of the "Country explored by a Detachment of American Troops commanded by Captain Pike" reaches to the supposed Yellowstone.

The Sevier r. possesses a melancholy interest as the scene of the wanton and brutal murder by Piute Indians of Captain John Williams Gunnison and most of his companions, near Sevier l., Oct. 27th, 1853. The particulars are given by Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, P. R. R. Rep., II. 1855, pp. 72-74. The massacre occurred at break of day of the 27th, not on the 26th, as usually reported. There was no provocation whatever, and no thought of danger on the part of the devoted band. Those killed, besides Captain Gunnison, were Mr. E. H. Kern, topographer and artist; Mr. F. Creuzfeldt, botanist; Mr. Wm. Potter, a citizen of Utah, guide; John Bellows, an employee; and three men of the military escort, which consisted of a corporal and six privates; only four of the whole party escaped with their lives. Lieutenant Beckwith expressly exonerates the Mormons from complicity in the outrage; public opinion thought otherwise; and the official record of Captain Gunnison's death stands "Killed 26 Oct. 53 by a band of Mormons and Inds near Sevier Lake Utah." The lamented and accomplished officer met his fate while conducting explorations and surveys for a railroad route near the 38° and 39° parallels of N. lat. He had graduated from the U. S. Military Academy at West Point July 31st, 1837, when he became a second lieutenant of the 2d Artillery; was transferred with that rank to the corps of Topographical Engineers July 7th, 1838; became first lieutenant May 9th, 1846; and obtained his captaincy Mar. 3d, 1853.

[IV'-19] Pike acquired a good idea of the Gila, for one who never saw it, and it is well laid down on his map; though it joins the Colorado a considerable distance above the head of the Gulf of California, the confluence is below 33°, being in lat. 32° 43´ 32´´ N., long. 114° 36´ 10´´ W. The Gila was known to the whites before the Mississippi was discovered; it was long better known than the Rio Grande, and down to the present century was far better known than the Rio Colorado. The valley of the Gila was the first seat of semi-civilization within the present limits of the United States; and Tucson, on the Santa Cruz r., disputes with St. Augustine in Florida the record of being the oldest continuously inhabited white settlement in our country; but St. A. was founded by Spaniards about the middle of the sixteenth century. An early if not the first name of the Gila was Rio de los Apostolos, more fully Rio Grande de los Apostolos, as the legend appears, for example, on Vaugondy's map, 1783, where so many apostolic and canonical towns are marked along the river as to give its valley the appearance of a well-settled region, including even that ancient and celebrated structure, the Casa Grande, still extant. Rio de los Apostolos or Apostles' r. appears on maps of the present century, as for example on the one which Captain Clark drew at the Mandans in the winter of 1804-5, and which Captain Lewis dispatched to President Jefferson April 7th, 1805, but which was never published of full size till September, 1893. Pike's first branch of the Gila is called "Rio de la Asuncion," with Rio Verde as its main fork. This is correct; for the river of the Assumption of the B. V. M., whatever may be the myth upon which such an extraordinary assumption was based, is that now known as Rio Salinas, Rio Salado, and Salt r., into which the Verde falls near Mt. McDowell and the fort of the same name. The confluence of Salt r. with the Gila is below Phoenix, present capital of Arizona, and but little above the point where the Agua Fria also falls into the Gila. The Verde is the principal river of central Arizona, for the most part flowing southward, though it starts northward by the headwater called Granite cr. and then makes a loop; this creek is the site of Prescott, first capital of Arizona on the establishment of the Territory in 1863, and of Fort Whipple, established by the troops to which I was attached in July, 1864. Pike's small branch of the Gila lettered "Rio de Ozul," for which read Rio Azul or Blue r., is the present San Carlos, of which we lately heard a good deal on account of the unruly Apaches at the agency of that name. Present Blue cr. is a small branch higher up on the same side, near Pike's Rio San Francisco, which latter he rightly charts as one of the initial forks of the Gila. His Rio San Pedro, still so called, is the principal GileÑo tributary from the S. It acquired special importance in connection with the U. S. and Mexican Boundary Survey. Near this stream he marks "Pres[idio] de Tubson," at the town of "S^n. Xavier del bac," in the "Senora" (Sonora) of that day.

The Indian tribes of the Gila valley which are located on the map may be here noted, as their names do not come up elsewhere in this work, and with these may also be conveniently considered those which Pike marks on the Colorado above the Gila. Such are, on the Gila: The Yumas (Cuchans); the "Cojuenchis"; the "Cucapa" (Cocopas); the Papagos; the "Cocomaricopas" (Maricopas); and on the Colorado: the "Chemequaba" (Chemehuevis, who are of Shoshonean stock, as we have already seen); the "Jalchedum"; the "Yabijoias" (Yavapais); the "Yamaya" (Amaquaqua, Amaqua, Majave or Mohave). All these Indians lived within the present territory of the United States, occupying the valley of the Gila on both sides from above the junction of the San Pedro down to the Colorado, and up the Colorado, on the Arizona side at least, to the Grand CaÑon, to the almost entire exclusion of other tribes. They were bounded on the N. by Shoshonean tribes in California, Nevada, Utah, and a small part of Arizona; on the E. by Athapascan tribes, especially the Apaches; on the S., they stretched throughout Lower California, and far into Mexico. With the single exception just said, the names that I can identify all are now classed under two main family groups or linguistic stocks, Piman and Yuman; and all belong to the latter, excepting the Papagos and the Pimas themselves. 1. The Piman family is mainly Mexican, as of its nine tribes or divisions only three are Arizonian. Of these, the Sobaipuri, who lived on the Santa Cruz and San Pedro branches of the Gila, have entirely disappeared. The Pimas proper, Upper Pimas, or Pimas Altas (so called in distinction from the Lower Pimas, Pimas Bajas, or Nevomes, of Mexico), have lived for 200 years on the Gila and Salado, in the position assigned by Pike to the Cocomaricopas. The Papagos lived further S. and extended into Mexico. According to late official returns (for 1890), there were 4,464 Pimas and 5,163 Papagos under the Pima Agency on the Gila. 2. The Yuman family is less summarily to be disposed of, as the area of its distribution in the United States is more extensive and its divisions are more numerous, and several of them are entirely extralimital in Lower California and Mexico. The name Yuma is given by Whipple as a Cuchan word meaning "sons of the river." In the early days of our occupation of Arizona some of the tribes along the Colorado were hostile; but since the subjugation of the Yumas and Mohaves, followed by the establishment of Fort Yuma and Fort Mohave, they have given very little trouble, with the exception of the Hualapais or Walapais. These may be properly classed as Yuman by linguistic affinities, but they are rather mountain than river Indians, and have within comparatively few years been most decidedly hostile. In January, 1865, it was my misfortune, which I shall never cease to regret, to be concerned in a cruel massacre—for I cannot call it a fight—in which about 30 Hualapais were killed, in the Juniper mts., a very few miles from the spot where Camp Hualapais was later established. My friend, the late Colonel William Redwood Price, when major of the 8th Cavalry (d. Dec. 30th, 1881), had the handling of the Hualapais after this; in 1867 they were about 1,500 people, with probably 400 warriors; he killed probably 175 of them, mostly men, and brought them to terms in 1869, when a batch of prisoners was sent to San Francisco. In 1881, when we reoccupied Camp Hualapais and named it Camp Price, a threatened outbreak was averted by putting a chief in irons. The Hualapais now number perhaps 750, in N. W. Arizona, and are almost the only members of the Yuman stock in the Territory whom we have not entirely broken down, pauperized, and debauched. The shocking syphilization of all the Yuman Indians along the Colorado has been notorious for many years. The Yumas or Umas proper, or Cuchans, have been segregated; there are or were lately about 1,000 at the Mission Agency in California, and 300 at the San Carlos in Arizona. Of the Mohaves, some 650 are at the Colorado River Agency in Arizona, 800 at San Carlos, and perhaps 400 at large. The disestablishment of Fort Mohave is quite recent; I was post surgeon there in 1881. There are about 300 Maricopas at the Pima Agency in Arizona. The Cocopas are a small tribe whose census is uncertain; they live on the California side of the Colorado up to the vicinity of the Gila. The Yavasupai or Aguazul Indians, who live in Cojnino or Cataract caÑon, to the number of about 200, as already said, note¹⁷, are entirely cut off from the world in the bottom of the chasm selected for their abode. Some of them I found occupying holes in the rock, which they walled up like old-fashioned cliff-dwellers; while others were sheltered in wickiups scattered about the few acres of arable ground they could find to irrigate for the cultivation of their corn, beans, melons, squashes, peaches, apricots, and sunflower-seeds.

[IV'-20] This is the main fork or largest branch of the Rio Grande. As already remarked, note²³, p. 632, Pike maps it too high up; for it runs entirely E. of the mountains (Sacramento, Guadalupe, White, etc.), W. of which he traces it, and its mouth is 346 m. by the channel of the Rio Grande below the site of Presidio del Norte, in lat. 29° 40´ N., long. 101° 20´ W. The length of the river is supposed to be between 700 and 800 m. The Pecos heads in the mountains immediately W. of Santa FÉ—on the E. side of the Santa FÉ range and W. side of Las Vegas range, among such peaks as the Truchas, Cone, Baldy, Lake, etc., there flowing due S. before it bears off to the left. It receives numerous small tributaries, both above and below the point where it passes by the caÑon, old pueblo, and modern town of Pecos. The name is derived from the old pueblo, which was situated on one of those tributaries in the mountains, some 25 m. S. E. of Santa FÉ. The Pecos have for many years been currently reported to have been among the straitest sect of the Montezuman faith, and the belief is general that they were those who longest guarded the holy fire in their estufas and looked to the east for the advent of their paraclete. This is a traditional taradiddle which has no foundation in fact. Not that Montezuma Ilhuicamina and Montezuma Xocoyotzin were not real historical persons; nor that the latter, Montezuma II., was not euhemerized and apotheosized; simply, that the Pecos people never worshiped him. The myth recrudesced during the old Santa FÉ trade, and was found in full swing on our peaceable conquest of New Mexico in 1846. Pecos is corrupted from the (TaÑoan) Jemez word Paquiu, applied later than the aboriginal name Tshiquite, rendered Cicuique in old Sp. chronicles. Pecos "was in 1540 the largest Indian village or pueblo in New Mexico, containing a population of about 2,000 souls, which formed an independent tribe speaking the same language as the Indians of Jemez. In 1680 the Pecos rebelled with the others, but surrendered peaceably to Vargas in 1692, and thereafter remained loyal to Spain," Cent. Cyclop. Names, s. v. "What with the massacres of the second conquest, and the inroads of the Comanches, they gradually dwindled away, till they found themselves reduced to about a dozen, comprising all ages and sexes; and it was only a few years ago that they abandoned the home of their fathers and joined the Pueblo of Jemez," Gregg, Comm. Pra., I., 1844, p. 271. The pueblo was desolate and in ruins when our Army of the West came by in 1846: see Lieut. Emory's report, Ex. Doc. 41, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, p. 30, with plate facing it; also, a different view, on the plate facing p. 447 of Lieut. Abert's report in the same volume. The latter says, p. 446: "In the afternoon [Sept. 26th, 1846] I went out on the hills to see the ancient cathedral of Pecos. The old building and the town around it are fast crumbling away under the hand of time. The old church is built in the same style as that of San Miguel; the ends of the rafters are carved in imitation of a scroll; the ground plan of the edifice is that of a cross. It is situated on a hill not far from the winding course of the river. High ridges of mountains appear to converge until they almost meet behind the town, and through a little gap one catches sight of a magnificent range of distant peaks that seem to mingle with the sky." Abert was told that the surviving remnant went to live with the ZuÑis; but Gregg's statement is no doubt correct, especially as Emory says, l. c., that "they abandoned the place and joined a tribe of the original race over the mountains, about 60 miles south." The modern small village of Pecos grew up close by the original site, which was abandoned in 1840.

[IV'-21] Here we enter the legendary land where we are liable to be soon confronted with the standard specter of the northwest passage to India, and other well-dressed phantoms. The body of water which the map shows probably represents Utah l., south of Great Salt l., and connected therewith by the short course of the Jordan. This seems to be what Pike means by the legend: "This lake is known as high as the 40° of Lat. there it opens wider to the West and receives the Waters of the Rio Yampancas"; for we can readily understand this as a way of saying that the lake is connected with a larger one to the W. Utah l. is meridionally E. of Great Salt l. by a few miles, and entirely S. of it; the Jordan is a very short stream between them. In a broad sense, then, Pike's Lac de Timpanagos or Lake of Tampanagos includes both these bodies of water; and his Rio Yampancas answers to Bear r., the large stream which falls into Great Salt l. at Bear River bay. His Sierra de Tampanagos covers the mountains on the E. and S. E. of Great Salt l. A different form of the same word appears in his "Indiens Yamparicas" of that region, and yet another in the legend: "The Lake of Tampanagos is supposed to be the same as the Lake of Thequaio in the Chart d'Alzate de Thequao placed in 40° of Lat. some Historians pretend that the Aretiqui comes from this Lake."

[IV'-22] Chapetones is a word which, with several variants in form, is pretty well known, and to be found in many dictionaries, though its origin may never have been satisfactorily shown, or at least agreed upon. In its application to un-American Spaniards in America the sense implied seems to have been always reproachful—perhaps something as our cowboys and other "rustlers" in the wild and woolly West would speak of a "tenderfoot" or "greeny." In Mexico the word corresponding to Chapeton or Chapetone was Gachupin or Gachupine, "applied to natives of Spain who are called Chapetones in Peru and Maturrangos in Buenos Aires," as one of the authorities before me says. I am afraid that it is significant of some unpleasant matters already noted, to find Pike here using the word said to be current in Peru, instead of that which was usual in Mexico: see Memoir, anteÀ. Geo. W. Kendall's Narrative of the Texan Expedition of 1841, 2 vols., small 8vo, London, 1845, II. p. 75, speaks of "the Gachupines, or natives of Old Spain"; and p. 76: "the Gachupines were indiscriminately slaughtered," etc. Gregg, Comm. Pra., I. 1844, p. 170, has: "Gachupin—a term used to designate European Spaniards in America." Wislizenus uses Gachupins.

[IV'-23] That is, Rio San Francisco, one of the initial forks of the Gila: see the map, and note¹⁹. The other is the main continuation of the Gila, sometimes called Rio San Domingo. The confluence is in Arizona, a few miles over the New Mexican border. There are mountains in this region called the San Francisco divide, and others known as the San Francisco range—both by no means to be confounded with the San Francisco mt. of the range in north-central Arizona. Whether the ruins of which Pike speaks as on this river be the work of the aboriginal colonists of Old Mexico from the northwest is, of course, in question; he simply renders a prevalent opinion of his time. The oldest authentic ruins known to exist in Arizona have only very recently been brought to light by the exhumations conducted by my friend, Mr. Frank H. Cushing, of the Hemenway ArchÆological Expedition, in 1886-88, in the valley of the Salado or Salt r., near the town of Tempe, and not far from Phoenix. An account of these discoveries, from the pen of Dr. Washington Matthews, U. S. A., forms part of the Seventh Memoir of Vol. VI. of Mem. Nat. Acad. Sci., 1893, pp. 142-161, figs. 1-22. Mr. Cushing dug up mounds he supposes to be from 1,000 to 2,000 years old, full of bones and pottery, and revealing structures, some of which recall the long famous Casa Grande itself. The buildings represented by the cluster of mounds crowded an area some 6 m. long and ½ to 1 m. wide. Five of the best marked mounds, standing in the places of groups of houses, have been named Los Muertos, Los Guanacos, Los Hornos, Las Canopas, and Las Acequias. Four kinds of architecture have been recognized as priest-temples (style of Casa Grande); sun-temples, in some cases 200 feet long by 150 broad; certain great communal houses, a sort of several-storied prototypes of our modern city flats; and ultramural huts, jacals, or wickiups. I should have called them respectively hieroecias, helioecias, synoecias, and exoecias. Those old Saladoans had an extensive system of irrigation, the lines of acequias madres or mother-ditches alone representing over 150 m. of dug-way; some of these canals are now utilized by the new-comers. It took many thousand people many years to leave monuments like these. Their actual antiquity is unknown; that it is very great is obvious; it is great enough to have resulted in the disappearance of everything but bone and clay. There is no sign of wood-work or textile fabric. Conjecture of a thousand years or more may reasonably be based on comparison of the natural rate of decay of structures known since the historic period, 1540. Thus, the Casa Grande has not changed perceptibly in our day, except from vandalism, and probably looks much as it did 350 years ago. It would appear also that the same indefatigable explorer has settled the long-mooted question of the Seven Cities of Cibola (Cebola, Sibola, Zibola), against any theory of their being the Moki (Tusayan) villages, or being anywhere else than in the vicinity of ZuÑi itself. The names which have come down to us since Coronado, 1541, are: (1) Ahacus, Avicu, Aquico, Jahuicu, Havico; (2) Canabe; (3) ...; (4) Aquinsa; (5) Alona; (6) Musaqui, MaÇaque, MaÇaquia; (7) Caquina. According to a certain phonetic system the preferable spelling is given as: (1) Hawiku; (2) Kyanawe; (3) Ketchupawe; (4) Apina or Pinawan; (5) Halona; (6) Matsaki; (7) Kyakima. All these were in what is now Valencia Co., N. M.; two were some miles S. W. of ZuÑi, near the village of Ojo Caliente; two were nearer ZuÑi, but E. of it; two were within 3 m. of ZuÑi, S. of it; while one, Halona, occupied in part, at least, the site of the present pueblo. The ruin of Hishota-uthla, classed as "Cibolan" though not as one of the Seven Cities, is 12 m. N. E. of ZuÑi, on the road to Fort Wingate; excavation there has revealed "a compactly-built, many-storied stronghold of stone containing a population of probably more than a thousand people," supposed to have been dead and gone long before Coronado passed that way. ZuÑi, now one of the best known of all the extant pueblos in New Mexico, is also the best living exemplar of such places. Its antiquity is great, though hardly estimable with precision. Some of its inhabitants made a tour of the United States under Mr. Cushing's management in 1881 and 1882. Immense collections of implements, utensils, and the like were made about that time by the late Colonel James Stevenson, and deposited in our museums. I visited the town in the summer of 1864, when it was far from having been as well exploited as it has since become; so my own observations are obsolete. The ZuÑi nation, otherwise Çuni, Sune, Soone, Suinyi, Shiwina, etc., sole member of the ZuÑian linguistic stock, has but one permanent pueblo, though it also inhabits at times three other small villages, of the nature of "summer resorts," as we should say of our similar Æstival refuges. These Indians numbered 1,613 by the census of 1890. They are well distinguished by their speech from all the various Tusayan, TaÑoan, and Keresan pueblonians of New Mexico, Arizona, and Chihuahua: for some of which, see next note.

[IV'-24] I can find no better place than this to bring up some matters which require attention concerning certain pueblos which Pike locates on his map, but which, being off his route, he does not notice in his text. The TaÑoan pueblos have been pretty fully noted in the foregoing itinerary, but the Tusayan and Keresan have not been sufficiently treated. We must first come to an understanding of the term "Pueblo Indians." This is simply a convenient phrase, or faÇon de parler, to designate various tribes which, in New and Old Mexico, and Arizona, settled in permanent habitations, became attached to the soil, practiced agriculture, kept flocks, and built the kind of towns called "pueblos." They are thus collectively distinguished from all roving and more or less warring tribes; they are settlers, not nomads; farmers and graziers rather than hunters, and of peaceful rather than predatory proclivities. This step in the direction of civilization was not however taken without some sacrifice of the strength of the natural wild animal, and they have suffered in consequence. They are never "bad" Indians; simply poor, tame ones, who for ages have been the prey of the priest, the trader, and the wild Indian. But the point to be insisted on is, that "Pueblo Indian" does not mean all one kind of Indians. It includes various tribes of distinct ethnic characters, the representatives of several linguistic lineages, who have severally yielded to their environments, and thus become collectively modified in a way that brings about that appearance of affinity which does not exist, and tends to obscure those radical distinctions of race which do exist. We say, for instance, "New Yorker," meaning anyone who lives in New York; but it would be as far from the fact to suppose that all Pueblo Indians are of one race as that all New Yorkers are Americans. The differences in language, and therefore in lineage, of the Tusayan, Keresan, TaÑoan, and ZuÑian pueblonians is as great as that of the English, French, German, and Spanish peoples. We must not be misled by the convenience of a phrase: see note³, p. 598. The Pueblonians to be here noted belong either (1) to the Tusayan federation, or (2) to the Keresan linguistic family.

1. Pike marks, W. of the Continental divide and in the region of the Colorado Chiquito, S. of the San Juan r., six Indian villages, which he calls Oraybe, Mosanis, Songoapt, Gualpi, Chacat, and Cumpa. For the last two, see note²¹, p. 630; the other four are the well-known Moki Indians, living on the four Moki mesas, about 50 m. N. E. of the Colorado Chiquito, in N. E. Arizona. With a single (TaÑoan) exception, those Indians are of Shoshonean stock; and without exception, they form the Tusayan confederacy. The ethnic affinities of Mokis are with such Indians as the Snakes, Utes, Comanches, and other well-known members of the Shoshonean race which overran so vast an area in western parts of the United States. But these settled down in Arizona and built pueblos, isolated from their kindred and surrounded by Athapascan (Navajo and Apache) tribes. They are at present the only Shoshonean tribe in Arizona, excepting the handful of Chemehuevis who live among Yuman tribes on the Colorado Grande, and unless there be also a few Kwaiantikwokets on the northern border about Mt. Navajo. The Mokis have resided in their present position for more than 200 years. This habitat is the plateau of moderate extent, commonly called the Moki mesa, some special elevations of which are well-known landmarks by the name of the Moki buttes, in full view from the main road which passes S. of them. Three of the most conspicuous of these buttes are called Chimney, Signal, and Spring. The mesa is between long. 110° and 111° W., in lat. 36° N. and southward, and thus to the S. W. of the Navajos; the locality is sometimes called the "Province of Tusayan." Here the Mokis proper, of Shoshonean stock, built six villages; and a seventh village, probably also about 200 years old, called Hano (or Tewa) was built with them by TaÑoan (Tewan or Teguan) refugees from the Rio Grande. Thus even the compact and isolated Moki establishment is not quite homogeneous, ethnically speaking. The Tusayan census is about 2,000; the TaÑoans there were lately counted as 132. Among the names of the seven villages, the four which Pike gives can be recognized under their modern spellings, as Oraybe=Oraibi, etc. One authority I have consulted renders Oraibi, Shipauliwisi, Shongapavi, Mishongnivi, Shichoamavi, Walpi (or Hualpee), and Tewa (i.e., Hano). Another, and probably preferable set of orthographies, is Oraibi, Shupaulovi, Shumepovi, Mashongnavi, Sichumovi, Walpi, and Hano. The name Tusayan, which varies to TuÇayan, Tuzan, etc., is derived from a ZuÑian word Usaya, applied to certain pueblos once inhabited by the confederacy. The Tusayans' name of themselves is a word variously rendered Hopituh, Hapitu, Hopee, Hopi, Opii, etc. Other words designating them, or some of them, are Cinyumuh, Shenoma or Shinumo, and Totonteac. The term now usually rendered Moki was longest current as Moqui; it is also found as Maqui, Magui, Mohace, Mohotse, and "Monkey."

2. The Keresan family consists entirely of Pueblo tribes who live in New Mexico along the Rio Grande and some of its tributaries, where their pueblos are interspersed with others of TaÑoan stock, in the moderate area to which their range is thus restricted. The family name is variously rendered by different authors, as Keres, Keran, Kera; Queres, Queris, Quera, Quirix; Chuchacas or Chuchachas; also, Keswhawhay. Some ethnists divide these people into two dialectal groups: one including the pueblos of Acoma and Laguna and their outliers; the other, all the rest of the pueblos about to be named. Acoma is the only pueblo which exists on the site occupied at the date of the earliest Spanish annals. Laguna dates from 1699. There were five Keresan pueblos in 1582; there had been seven in 1542. The full list of Keresan pueblos, as given by Powell in alphabetical order, with the census for 1890, is: 1. Acoma, including the summer pueblitos of Acomita and Pueblita; pop. 566. 2. CochitÍ, on the W. bank of the Rio Grande, 27 m. S. W. of Santa FÉ; pop. 268. "The inhabitants formerly successively occupied the Potrero de las Vacas, the Potrero San Miguel, the now ruined pueblo of Cuapa, and the Potrero Viejo," Cent. Cyc., s. v. 3. *Hasatch. 4. Laguna, including the eight other places whose names are here starred; pop. 1,143. Laguna is thus really a group of small pueblos situated on and near Rio San JosÉ, W. of the Rio Grande. The original foundation was by ZuÑians as well as by Keresans, and the place was called Kawaiko. 5. *Paguate. 6. *Punyeestye. 7. *Punyekia. 8. *Pusityitcho. 9. San Felipe; pop. 554. This is called by the name of the mission which the Spanish founded there. 10. Santa Ana, pop. 253, on the Rio Jemez, W. of the Rio Grande. This Spanish name is also that of a mission, usurping the native name Tamaya. 11. Santo Domingo; pop. 670. 12. *Seemunah. 13. Sia, on the Jemez; pop. 106; also called Chea, Chia, Cia, Cilia, Silla, Tsea, Tsia, Tzia, Zia. "In 1582 Sia was said to be the largest of five villages forming a province called Punames. The recent pueblo dates from about 1692, when the village formerly occupied was abandoned. The tribe, which was once comparatively populous, now numbers but 106. The decrease is attributed largely to infectious disease and to the killing of persons accused of witchcraft," Cent. Cyc., s. v. 14. *Wapuchuseamma. 15. *Ziamma. Total pop. 3,560 for the 17 places, of which 15 (all but Acomita and Pueblita) are permanent pueblos, and 7 are officially rated as principal and distinct. Those which are given by Pike in his itinerary have been already noted, along with the TaÑoan pueblos as they occur in his text.

[IV'-25] For remarks on the Indians mentioned in this paragraph which would be introduced here had I not recently given them elsewhere, the reader is referred to Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 55, note⁷; p. 58, note¹¹; p. 60, note¹⁵; and p. 477, note³.

[IV'-26] The Navajos, Navahos, or, as they call themselves, Tennai, are one of the three main divisions of the southern group of Athapascan Indians (the other two being the Lipans and the Apaches). They have always lived, so far as is known to history, in the country where they do now, and whence they raided in every direction before their final subjugation in our times. They focused on the upper waters of the Rio San Juan, in N. W. New Mexico, whence they habitually ranged down the river in Colorado and Utah, and S. of it in Arizona. They were thus in contact and conflict with Shoshonean tribes on the N., and warred when they pleased with the various Apache tribes of their own stock which were about them; they were of course a terror to the peaceful Pueblonians, who had to hold their own as best they could against all the battlesome savages by whom they were beset on every hand. They were powerful, and are still one of the largest tribes with which we have to do, like the Comanches and some of the divisions of the Sioux. A late census returns about 17,000, nearly all on the large Navajo reservation which occupies the contiguous N. W. corner of New Mexico and N. E. corner of Arizona.

An interesting account of the expedition of Colonel Doniphan and some of his officers to the Navajos in 1846, together with the text of the first treaty of peace concluded between them, the New Mexicans, and Americans, at Ojo Oso (Bear spring), Nov. 22d, occupies Chaps. IX-XI of Hughes' Don. Exp., 8vo, ed. of 1847, pp. 61-76.

[IV'-27] The Lipans or Sipans cut no figure now in the United States, where they are practically extinguished, though the case may be different in Mexico. They were a numerous and roving tribe of stalwart Indians who scoured the plains of Texas from Red r. to the Rio Grande. They were a sort of Apaches, having their nearest affinities with the latter, and in fact might be considered the Apaches of the plains as distinguished from those of the mountains. They have been commonly called Lipan Apaches, and such is no incorrect designation, though they are rather more distinct from most bands of Apaches than these are from one another. They extend in Mexico as far S. as Durango. A Lipan collision which made some history, and enriched the cabinet of S. G. Morton, the craniologist of Philadelphia, may be read in Hughes' Don. Exped., pp. 130-132, and Wislizenus, Mem., pp. 71, 72: see also note⁵, p. 697.

[IV'-28] There is no historic period when the Apaches were not the scourge of the country they inhabited, down to the time when they were brought to terms by General Crook, in his Arizona campaigns of 1872 seq., and even since then their repeated escapades are matters of recent notoriety. They always warred with other Indians, always warred with the whites, and not seldom with one another. In Arizona particularly, so far as we are concerned, they did more to retard the development of the country than all other causes combined. For some years after the Territorial government was established, it was at the risk of life that one went out of sight of Prescott or Fort Whipple alone or with a small party. The Apaches lurked behind every rock, and hid in every bush; or, failing that, under cover of every three blades of grass—a trick they did to perfection—and reddened with blood every trail that led to the capital or the post. People were killed and stock was run off within a few hundred paces of both these places, and more than one pitched battle came off within ear-shot. A regular part of my business for two years was the extraction of Apache arrow-heads. The arrows used by the tribes nearest us were exactly such as Pike describes, though, so far as my observation went, the heads were all of stone, quite small and sharp, and very brittle, so that they usually shivered when they struck a bone and the fragments were not easily removed. They were only held in place with gum in the shallow notch at the end of the small hardwood stick that was set in the large reed, and thus were always left in the wound when the stick was pulled out. It is within my certain knowledge that they were in some cases poisoned; the common opinion was that the septic substance was derived from a deer's liver into which a rattlesnake had been made to inject its venom, and which was then left to putrefy in the sun; but how this case may really be, I never ascertained to my satisfaction. We continually hunted Apaches and killed a good many; a particular friend of mine, Mr. Willard Rice, who saved my life on a very ticklish occasion, when we were on a deer-hunt together without other companions, and who is still living near Prescott, is to be credited with at least 20 "good" (dead) Apaches—none of the score women or children, either. But such desultory operations as we could conduct in those years seemed to make little difference; it required Crook's systematic campaigns, on a large scale, to render the country inhabitable. The other side of the picture is, that the Apache has never committed an atrocity that we have not exchanged in kind, with the sole exception that we have probably never put a prisoner to death by slow torture, as was the Apache custom; that the Apache has not broken faith with us oftener than we are proud to say we have with him, and has not robbed us of more than we would like to take from him, if he had anything left to steal and we had an opportunity. The secrets of Indian agencies, like those of the Roman confessional, only leak out under great pressure. The Apaches that troubled us most in that particular vicinity of which I speak were known or supposed to be those of the Tonto basin, commonly called Tontos (Pinal Coyoteros). In scientific classification the Apache tribes and sub-tribes are numerous. The alphabetical list now recognized by high authority is: Arivaipa, Chiricahua, Faraone, GileÑo (Gilans, or Apaches of the Gila, with four sub-tribes, Coyotero, MimbreÑo, Mogollon, and Pinal Coyotero or Tonto), Jicarilla, Lipan, Llanero, Mescalero, Naisha, Querecho, Tchikun, Tchishi. All the Apaches within our jurisdiction have been brought under military subjection and restraint. The largest body of Apaches is now on the San Carlos reservation; their number is uncertain, say 2,000, representing several different tribes. Nearly as many more are in charge of the military at Camp Apache, in Arizona, say 1,900, known collectively as White Mountain Apaches. About 800 Jicarillas are on the Southern Ute Reservations in Colorado; some 500 Mescaleros are on the reservation of that name in New Mexico; and 300 other Apaches are on the Kiowa, Comanche, and Wichita Reservation in Indian Territory. After a recent outbreak had been quelled 356 prisoners were sent to Mount Vernon Barracks in Alabama. There are about 150 children at school in Carlisle, Pa. The total of perhaps 6,000 Apaches with which we have still to deal is not large in comparison with the numbers of some other tribes—but it is enough.

[IV'-29] See note¹³, p. 615, note¹⁴, p. 616, note¹⁵, p. 618; also, note²⁴, p. 743. The towns here mentioned are those usually called San Domingo, San Felipe, and Sandia—the latter being the TaÑoan one Pike elsewhere speaks of as St. Dies.

[IV'-30] Juan de OÑate, first governor of New Mexico, b. Guadalajara, Mex., about 1555, d. after 1611. "He was a son of the founder of Guadalajara, and was married to a granddaughter of Hernando CortÉs. In 1595 his proposition to settle New Mexico was accepted by the viceroy Velasco, and after much delay the grant was confirmed by the Count of Monterey. OÑate left Zacatecas in Jan., 1598, with 130 men besides Indians, a large wagon- and cattle-train, etc.; reached the Rio Grande, probably at El Paso, April 20; took formal possession April 30; crossed the river; and in Aug. founded the first capital, San Juan (Santa FÉ was founded later). After the first year he had little trouble with the Indians. Early in 1599 he explored a part of Arizona, and in 1604 followed the Gila river down to the Gulf of California. He probably ceased to rule as governor in 1608." (Cent. Cyc. Names, s. v.) (See Nadal and Niza, in the Index.)

[IV'-31] The province which Pike calls indifferently Biscay and New Biscay was properly Nueva Vizcaya. It was named Reino de la Nueva Vizcaya by Francisco de Ibarra, who invaded it about 1560-70, and retained the name until after the independence. As a colonial division of New Spain it had been originally called Copala, and was much more extensive than Pike's Biscay, as it corresponded to the present states of Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, and a southern part of Coahuila. This region was included among the Provincias Internas in 1777, and such was its status in Pike's time; but meanwhile it had become contracted in extent by the exclusion of Sonora and Sinaloa, so that in Pike's time it was little if any more than equivalent to the two present states of Chihuahua and Durango. Present Chihuahua has Sinaloa and Durango on the S. Present Durango is surrounded by Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Zacatecas, and Jalisco.

[IV'-32] Wislizenus, Mem., p. 55, quotes this passage, and adds: "By rubbing the hair of cats and dogs in the dark, I could elicit here a greater mass of electricity than I had ever seen produced in this way. Some persons, entitled to confidence, informed me that by changing their woollen under-dress in the night, they had at first been repeatedly frightened by seeing themselves suddenly enveloped in a mass of electrical fire. The remarkable flames that appeared after a thunder-storm in the mountains south of El Paso, already mentioned by me [Mem. p. 43], were no doubt connected with electricity. I recollect also, from an account published in relation to the battle of Buena Vista, that during a sultry evening electrical flames were seen on the points of the bayonets among the sentinels stationed in the mountains."

[IV'-33] For these, see the itinerary, Apr. 30th-May 13th, pp. 668-678, and notes there. The lakes Pike proceeds to mention are in or on the border of present Coahuila. The situation of the Presidio del Norte, where the Conchos discharges, is lat. 29° 33´ 53´´ N., long. 104° 36´ 27´´ W., by the river 346 m. above the mouth of the Pecos, and 348 below El Paso—both of these distances much in excess of the direct line between these points. "Batopilis" is very far out for the source of the Conchos, unless Pike refers to some other place than the modern Batopilas. This is situated below lat. 27° N., and in the Pacific water-shed, being on a branch of the Rio del Fuerte, which runs from Chihuahua through Sinaloa and empties into the Gulf of California at Point Ahome.

[IV'-34] Before undertaking to answer this query, it would be well to ascertain the fact. The scorpions which Pike describes are known by the Spanish name alacran, and I presume are closely related to the widely distributed Androctonus biaculeatus, if not the same species. Kendall's Narrative of the Texan Expedition of 1841, pub. Lond., 1845, II. p. 114, cites Pike in this connection, and also has: "I believe that the city of Durango is somewhat celebrated for the beauty and talent of its women—I know that it is noted for the numbers and venomous qualities of its alicrans, or scorpions. Frequently, while travelling through the State of Durango, were we regaled with Mexican stories of the swarms of poisonous alicrans which infest the capital.... A bounty of some three or six cents ... is paid by the authorities for each insect secured, and according to some of the stories told us, no inconsiderable business is carried on in catching and bottling the much dreaded scorpions." When Gregg was in Durango, March, 1835, he noted that city "as being the headquarters, as it were, of the whole scorpion family. During the spring, especially, so much are the houses infested by these poisonous insects, that many people are obliged to have resort to a kind of mosquito bar, in order to keep them out of their beds at night. As an expedient to deliver the city from this terrible pest, a society has already been formed, which pays a reward of a cuartilla (three cents) for every alacran (or scorpion) that is brought to them. Stimulated by the desire of gain, the idle boys of the city are always on the look-out; so that, in the course of a year, immense numbers of this public enemy are captured and slaughtered. The body of this insect is of the bulk and cast of a medium spider, with a jointed tail one or two inches long, at the end of which is a sting whose wounds are so poisonous as often to prove fatal to children, and are very painful to adults. The most extraordinary peculiarity of these scorpions is, that they are far less dangerous in the north than in the south, which in some manner accounts for the story told Capt. Pike, that even those of Durango lose most of their venom as soon as they are removed a few miles from the city," says Gregg, very sensibly, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. 89. Hughes, Doniphan Exp., p. 128: "the soldiers would sometimes shake their blankets, toss ... the lizards and alacrans, exclaiming angrily, 'd——n the scorpion family!'"

[IV'-35] Gregg, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. 114, cites Pike in his own description of Chihuahua, as it appeared to him in 1839, and the two accounts may be here brought together. Noting the regularity of the city in comparison with Santa FÉ, the dressing of the best buildings with hewn stone, the paving of some of the streets, and the population of about 10,000, this author continues:

"The most splendid edifice in Chihuahua is the principal church, which is said to equal in architectural grandeur anything of the sort in the republic. The steeples, of which there is one at each front corner, rise over 100 feet above the azotea [roof]. They are composed of very fancifully-carved columns; and in appropriate niches of the frontispiece, which is also an elaborate piece of sculpture, are to be seen a number of statues, as large as life, the whole forming a complete representation of Christ and the 12 Apostles. This church was built about a century ago, by contributions levied upon the mines (particularly those of Santa Eulalia, 15 or 20 miles from the city), which paid over a percentage on all the metal extracted therefrom; a medio [6¼ cents], I believe, being levied upon each marco of eight ounces. In this way, about a million of dollars was raised and expended in some 30 years, the time employed in the construction of the building. It is a curious fact, however, that, notwithstanding the enormous sums of money expended in outward embellishments, there is not a church from thence southward, perhaps, where the interior arrangements bear such striking marks of poverty and neglect. If, however, we are not dazzled by the sight of these costly decorations for which the churches of Southern Mexico are so much celebrated, we have the satisfaction of knowing that the turrets are well provided with bells, a fact of which every person who visits Chihuahua very soon obtains auricular demonstration. One, in particular, is so large and sonorous that it has frequently been heard, so I am informed, at the distance of 25 miles.

"A little below the Plaza Mayor stand the ruins (as they may be called) of San Francisco—the mere skeleton of another great church of hewn stone, which was commenced by the Jesuits previous to their expulsion in 1767, but never finished. By the outlines still traceable amid the desolation which reigns around, it would appear that the plan of this edifice was conceived in a spirit of still greater magnificence than the Parroquia which I have been describing. The abounding architectural treasures that are mouldering and ready to tumble to the ground bear sufficient evidence that the mind which had directed its progress was at once bold, vigorous, and comprehensive.

"This dilapidated building has since been converted into a sort of state prison, particularly for the incarceration of distinguished prisoners. It was here that the principals of the famous Texan Santa FÉ Expedition were confined, when they passed through the place, on their way to the City of Mexico. This edifice has also acquired considerable celebrity as having received within its gloomy embraces several of the most distinguished patriots, who were taken prisoners during the first infant struggles for Mexican independence. Among these was the illustrious ecclesiastic, Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, who made the first declaration at the village of Dolores, September 16, 1810. He was taken prisoner in March, 1811, some time after his total defeat at Guadalaxara; and being brought to Chihuahua, he was shot on the 30th of July following, in a little square back of the prison, where a plain white monument of hewn stone has been erected to his memory. It consists of an octagon base of about 25 feet in diameter, upon which rises a square, unornamented pyramid to the height of about 30 feet. The monument indeed is not an unapt emblem of the purity and simplicity of the curate's character.

"Among the few remarkable objects which attract the attention of the traveller is a row of columns supporting a large number of stupendous arches which may be seen from the heights, long before approaching the city from the north. This is an aqueduct of considerable magnitude which conveys water from the little river of Chihuahua, to an eminence above the town, whence it is passed through a succession of pipes to the main public square, where it empties itself into a large stone cistern; and by this method the city is supplied with water. This and other public works to be met with in Chihuahua, and in the southern cities, are glorious remnants of the prosperous times of the Spanish empire. No improvements on so exalted a scale have ever been made under the republican government.... OjalÁ por los dias felices del Rey!"

[IV'-36] Sonora then was nearly the same as the present State of that name, but lost a northern strip (the Gadsden Purchase) to our Arizona, and also lost its New Mexican line. For the present boundary between it and the United States, running on lat. 31° 20´ N. to long. 111° W., see note³², p. 645. In Mexico, Sonora is now bounded on the E. by Chihuahua, on the S. by Sinaloa, and on the W. by the Gulf of California, except the short extent to which the Colorado r. separates it from Lower California. Area, 77,550 sq. m.; pop. 140,500; capital, Hermosillo, pop. 7,000; principal seaport, Guaymas, pop. 5,500, situated in lat. 27° 56´ N., long. 110° 36´ W.

[IV'-37] The whole Sonoran water-shed is Pacific, and the river-system runs on general S. and S. W. courses to the Gulf, in a series of somewhat parallel streams. The northernmost one of these, of any size, which Pike calls Ascencion r., I find lettered Rio Altar; its main branch is Rio Magdalena; some of its ultimate sources are in Arizona, in the country about Arivaca, Tubac, and old Fort Mason; it discharges between George's bay and Cape Tepoca. The Sonora is much larger, with a main branch called San Miguel; it discharges opposite Tiburon isl. Arizpa, which Pike speaks of as near the head of the Yaqui, is high up on the right bank of the Sonora; lower down is Hermosillo (lat. 29° 10´ N., long. 110° 45´ W.). The Yaqui is the largest Sonoran river, falling into the Gulf below Guaymas and above Point Lobos. It has two main forks, Rio Moctezuma and Rio Bavispe. Rio Matape, a small river, is the one that falls in at Guaymas, and not the Yaqui. Another small one, Rio Mayo, falls in below Vacamora and Point Rosa. Rio Alamos, which heads in Sonora, falls over the Sinaloan boundary.

[IV'-38] Arizpe is now a small place, with a population of probably 4,000, and is of interest chiefly to the antiquarian. The original mission of Arizpe was already over 150 years old in Pike's time, and the place is believed to have been an Opata village as early as 1540. The derivation of the name is given as the Opata word arit, meaning "ant." The name Arizpe suggests the obvious conjecture, that the root of the word Arizona, the derivation of which has been so much mooted, may be here found. How this may be, I do not know; but Arizona does not appear to be Spanish, and certainly any such etymology as Lat. arida zona, which has been adduced among others, is fictitious.

[IV'-39] Tubson is now Tucson, Ariz. San Cruz is Santa Cruz, also in Arizona, on or near the branch of the Gila of that name. Tubac is likewise now Arizonian, being a place about on long. 111° W., N. W. of Nogales, and not far from old Forts Mason and Crittenden. Altac is Altar, on the Sonoran river of that name. "Fiuntenas" I take to be a misprint for Fronteras, a place on one of the headwaters of the Yaqui, about lat. 31° N. Bacuachi is on one of the branches of the Sonora r., above Arizpe. Bavista is Bavispe, a place high up on the river of that name, close to the eastern border of the State. Horcasites, to judge from its location on Pike's map, was on or near the Sonora r., in the vicinity of present Ures; but I have not found the place. Near it Pike locates a Presidio San Antonio, omitted from the text. Buenavista is a place low down on the Yaqui r.; the present road from Punta de Agua on Rio Matape goes through it to Batacoso, Alamos, and so on.

[IV'-40] Sinaloa or Cinaloa is practically the same as it was, but would be now said to be bounded by Sonora, Chihuahua, Durango, and Jalisco; its whole S. W. length is sea-coast, on the Gulf of California and Pacific Ocean. Area, 36,180 sq. m.; pop. 245,700; capital, Culiacan, on the river of that name, in lat. 24° 50´ N., long. 107° 20´ W.; pop. 8,000. The principal city and port is Mazatlan, in lat. 23° 15´ 36´´ N.; pop. 12,000.

[IV'-41] Sinaloa has a long series of comparatively short rivers, with a general S. W. trend to the sea. Rio del Fuerte (River of the Fort) is the largest and, excepting Rio Alamos, the northernmost. The Sinaloa is the next one of any size; on this is Sinaloa, in Pike's time the capital, but not now a place of special importance. Further S. come successively, Rio San Lorenzo, Rio San Miguel, Rio Piaxtla, Rio Mazatlan, and Rio El Rosario; the latter is charted by Pike, who empties it into the Gulf, near 23°, which is about right.

[IV'-42] Coahuila, or Coahuila de Zaragoza, or Cohahuilla, or Quagila, etc., has much the same limits now, excepting of course the cis-Grandean portion which is now a part of Texas. On the eastern side there is a curious peninsula or panhandle of the State, which is wedged between two similar projections of Nuevo Leon and Tamaulipas respectively. On the S. are San Luis PotosÍ as well as Zacatecas, and on the W. the former Biscay gives Chihuahua and Durango. Area, 60,500 sq. m.; pop. 178,000; capital, Saltillo, about lat. 25° 25´ N., long. 101° 4´ W., founded 1586; pop. 23,000.

[IV'-43] The Rio Grande does not now cross Coahuila, but forms its whole U. S. border on the N. W., N., and N. E. But there are a good many rivers in Coahuila, some of them notable. 1. Prominent among these is the whole course of the Sabinas, and of its main fork on which is Monclova, together with their respective tributaries, down to where the two are joined, to continue under the name of Rio Salado to the Rio Grande; the Salado cuts across the tip end of New Leon, but again becomes Coahuilan to the extent of separating Coahuila from Nuevo Leon before entering Tamaulipas. The "Aqua Verde" lake which Pike names, and which is rather centrally than westerly located, is the Laguna de Agua Verde; which, with a neighboring one called Santa Maria, belongs to the water-system of the Sabinas. 2. The two rivers which flow into Lag. del Muerto and Lag. de Parras enter Coahuila. 3. The headwaters of the Rio San Juan, on one of which Saltillo, the capital, is situated, are in Coahuila. 4. A series of Coahuilan streams falls into the Rio Grande at successive points from below Presidio Salto to above Presidio San Vincento.

[IV'-44] The tree is not the palmetto of the Southern States, Sabal palmetto, but one of the large woody yuccas, of the same genus as the small shrubby ones commonly called Spanish bayonets, from the character of the leaves Pike notes. Yucca treculeana (or canaliculata) is a Mexican species sometimes 25 feet high and 2 feet thick, thus answering to the requirements of the text. The one best known in our country is the tree yucca, Yucca arborescens, very similar to the last named. This grows abundantly in some parts of Southern California in the valley of the Mohave r., sometimes so thickly as to make a sort of forest. Multitudes may be seen along the line of the Atl. and Pac. R. R. in the desert, where there is for many miles no sign of anything else that looks like a tree.

[IV'-45] For various places mentioned in this and the following paragraphs, see the itinerary of May 16th to June 1st, pp. 680-689, and notes along there.

[IV'-46] Robert Cavelier, Le Sieur de la Salle, b. Rouen, Normandie, France, Nov. 22d, 1643, murdered by Duhaut in conspiracy with other assassins, in Texas, on a branch of the Trinity, or of the Brazos, Mar. 19th or 20th, 1687, was never at the mouth of the Rio Grande. La Salle sailed from France with four vessels and about 280 persons, July 24th, 1684; three of the vessels sighted Florida Jan. 15th, 1685; landed at St. Louis, later St. Bernard, now Matagorda, bay, in Feb., 1685; one vessel sailed away in Mar., 1685, leaving La Salle with about 180 adventurers or colonists. He founded Fort St. Louis at or near present La Vaca, in Apr., 1685, giving a color of French claim that did not entirely fade away till 1803, though the settlement speedily aborted. The remainder of 1685 and the year 1686 were mainly passed in fruitless wanderings and warrings in different directions, with misery and disaster at every turn. La Salle's people dwindled down to about 20 who were left at the fort, and 17 who started with their leader, Jan. 7th, 1687, overland to Canada. This verloren hoop included: La Salle; Father Jean Cavelier, his brother; their two nephews, Moranget and Cavelier; Sieur de Maria, Friar Anastase Douay, who afterward wrote of the journey, a witness of La Salle's death; Joutel, a trusty soldier, whose account (pub. 1713) is to be preferred to Douay's when the two differ; Teissier, a pilot, one of the conspirators; Liotot, the surgeon, ditto; Hiens, a German ex-buccanier, ditto; Duhaut, the actual assassin; Jean ArchevÊque, his servant and accomplice; Saget, La Salle's servant; Nika, a Shawanoe hunter; another Indian, and some other persons. This party had crossed the Colorado and Brazos Mar. 15th, 1687. After a quarrel which arose over some buffalo meat, in a detached party who were 6 m. away from La Salle, Duhaut, Liotot, Hiens, and others conspired to kill Moranget; Liotot brained him; Saget and Nika were also then and there killed. La Salle left Joutel and others in their own camp and proceeded to the scene of this tragedy, accompanied only by Father Douay, and an Indian, Mar. 19th or 20th. On his approach, Duhaut shot him in the head from ambush; Liotot and others mocked and buffeted his corpse. Some time in May Duhaut was murdered by Hiens; at the same time Liotot was murdered by one Ruter. Some survivors of this bloody expedition reached Poste aux Arkansas in July. The colony left at Fort St. Louis had been utterly extirpated by Indian massacre and dispersion of the few survivors, before Apr. 22d, 1689, when the spot, void of all but the dead there buried, was visited by a Spanish party under Don Alonzo de Leon. See note²¹, p. 560.

[IV'-47] For the several rivers about to be treated here, see the itinerary, June 7th-29th, and notes there.

[IV'-48] This description of the Nachez, Angelina, and Toyac (Atoyac) rivers agrees with the map, and with the misapprehension under which Pike labored. As already indicated, note¹⁸, p. 710, the three are branches of one, which falls into the Gulf in the same bay with the Sabine; but Pike cuts off the Nachez and Angelina from the Toyac and turns them into the Trinity as branches of the latter, thus leaving the Toyac alone to pursue the course all three should have taken together.

[IV'-49] The reboso, with which the women muffle their faces, in a characteristic manner perhaps traceable back to the Moors, or to the wives of the prophet himself, is as indispensable an article of attire as a fan. The Spaniards have a phrase de reboso, equivalent to the Italian in petto, Latin sub rosa, to indicate secrecy, intrigue, and the like. The reboso varies much in size, shape, color, texture, price, and other qualities; and, according to one distinguished author, it has various uses: "The church was crowded with women of all conditions, and the horrid reboso, which the poor use for shawl, bonnet, handkerchief, and spit-box, sent out an odor which the incense from the altar failed to stifle," says Emory, Ex. Doc. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., 1848, p. 41. Some say that the large mobile lips of Mexican seÑoras acquire their osculatory capacity by the habitual use of those features in gesticulation as well as articulation; their hands and arms being kept bundled up with their heads in that comprehensive article of attire, they are obliged to use their lips for pointers.

[IV'-50] Humboldt, in his Personal Narrative, etc., p. xxii of the Philada. ed. of 1815, takes express exception to these statistics, in the following terms: "The numerous statistical data, which Mr. Pike has collected in a country of the language of which he was ignorant, are for the greater part very inaccurate. According to this author the mint of Mexico coins every year 50 millions of piastres in silver, and 14 millions in gold; while it is proved by the tables annually printed by order of the Court, and published in the Political Essay [of Humboldt and Bonpland], that, the year in which the produce of the mines was the most abundant, the coinage amounted only to 25,806,074 piastres in silver, and to 1,359,814 piastres in gold."

[IV'-51] Bernardo Galvez y Gallardo, viceroy of Mexico from June 16th, 1785, until his death at Tacubaya, Nov. 30th, 1786. He was b. at Marcharavieja July 23d, 1746, was son of Mathias de Galvez, and had a very eminent career as soldier and statesman.

[V'-1] The Appendix to Pt. 3 of the orig. ed. was the most extraordinary hotch-potch I ever saw in type—a lot of letters and other papers bundled together in no intelligible or imaginable order. There being no evidence of design or purpose, the first step toward bringing an appearance of order out of this confusion must be taken by disregarding the original helter-skelter entirely, and by rearranging the various pieces of which this Appendix consisted as freely as if they were loose manuscripts accidentally disordered. The documents with which we have to do were disarranged as follows:

No. 1. Pike's Observations on New Spain, the leading article, not numbered, making pp. 1-51, or more than half of the whole Appendix. (This I have disposed of in the foregoing Chap. IV.)

No. 2, pp. 52, 53. A fragmentary vocabulary of Mississippi place-names, having no connection with Pt. 3 of the book. (This I have made Chap. IX., pp. 355, 356, of Pt. 1, where it belongs.)

No. 3, pp. 53-55. A letter from Pike to Wilkinson.

No. 4, pp. 55-57. A letter from Wilkinson to Pike.

No. 5, pp. 57-63. A letter from Pike to Wilkinson.

No. 6, pp. 64-68. A Congressional report, with accompanying documents, including matter relating to all three of Pike's expeditions, yet lacking one of the most important of the papers belonging to it (see No. 13, below). (All these I shall relegate to the following Chap. VI.)

No. 7, p. 69. A mere paragraph about a priest. (This I have simply interpolated in the text of the itinerary, Chap. II., pp. 603, 604—the place where it belongs.)

No. 8, pp. 69, 70. A letter from Pike to Allencaster.

No. 9, p. 70. A certificate from Allencaster to Pike.

No. 10, p. 71. A letter from Pike to Allencaster.

No. 11, p. 72. A letter from Pike to Salcedo.

No. 12, p. 72. A letter from Salcedo to Pike.

No. 13, pp. 73-77. The missing document which belongs to No. 6 (see above), being a brief sketch of Pike's Arkansaw Expedition and of his Mexican Tour, no date, no place, no addressee. (This, of course, goes with No. 6, in the following Chap. VI.)

No. 14, pp. 78, 79. A letter from Pike to Salcedo.

No. 15, pp. 79, 80. A letter from Salcedo to Pike.

No. 16, pp. 80-82. Inventory of papers seized by the Spanish authorities, with accompanying certificate.

No. 17, pp. 82, 83. A letter from Pike to Salcedo.

No. 18, pp. 83-85. A letter from Pike to Salcedo.

No. 19, pp. 86, 87. A letter from Salcedo to Wilkinson.

By eliminating from the above No. 1, No. 2, No. 6, No. 7, and No. 13, as above indicated, the residuum consists entirely of correspondence relating to the Mexican Tour, which is easily rearranged in the chronological order of the several letters, and thus forms the present Chapter V.

[V'-2] On this subject I can throw a little further light, as reflected from some documents which I find on file in the Archives of the War Department. The following letter is in a clerk's hand, with Pike's signature:

Washington city Feby. 10^th. 1808.

Sir,

Being informed that the Chevalier Don Fownda, Charge des affaires from his Catholic Majesty to the United States, has forwarded to your office an account of expenses said to have occurred in consequence of my being obliged to pass thro' the internal provinces of New Spain, amounting to a sum, exceeding 21,000 Dollars.—I have thought it proper to state to you the following circumstances. On my being informed by the Gov^r. at Santa fÉ that I should be obliged to go to Chihuahua, I addressed a letter to him in which amongst other topics—I demanded to be advised if myself and troops were to be supported at the expense of the U States or his Catholic majesty—On this subject he was silent in his reply—but the day I marched from that city sent me a small sum of money, which I was informed was the subsistence money of my party to Chihuahua—at which place I refunded said sum to an officer of the Gov^rs. acquaintance & took his receipt for the same—at the seat of goverment I received $1000 and gave triplicate receipts making my goverment responsible for the same—and on the close of my correspondence with Gen^l. Salcedo was informed that I should be conveyed to our territories in the same manner I had been from New Mexico to Chihuahua—That was to find our own subsistence—but all other expences to be paid by the Spanish officers.—I left a requisition that my party in the rear might be allowed $2^6¼/100 per diem for their subsistence, and as this was for the support of our troops, when in their country, it remains to be decided by our Gov^t, whether they will refund the money—At the first place where I changed my escort on this side of Chihuahua, pay was demanded for the services of the mules, and horses, which I positively refused—but finding the officer was embarassed, I gave him a receipt agreable to the enclosed copy and date.—at S^t. Antonio I received $200 of Gov_r. Cordero—whereof the account stands enclosed—but I presume in justice no part should be allowed except the cash advanced, and the mens subsistence—as agreable to the Chevaliers own maxim—"the Government which unnecessarily produced the expenditures ought in justice to defray them"—.

I have the honor to be,
Sir,
With high consideration
Your most ob^t. Serv^t.
[Signed] Z. M. Pike Captain 1st U States Reg^t. Infy

The Hon^able.
James Madison,
Sec^y. Dep^t. State

The foregoing letter has two inclosures. One is the following form of account:

"U. States to
the Spanish Govt.—

^*—— 07.

I acknowledged to have been furnished by —— with —— mules —— horses for the transport of my party and baggage from —— to —— The hire of said beasts to be hereafter adjusted between the Gov^t. of the U. States and that of his Cath. Majesty—

"(Signed) Z. Pike.

"N. B. The whole of those charges (the latter of which I by no means conceive the U States under any just obligation to discharge) cannot if my men have recently left the country, amount to more than $2000. 1200 of which I only pledged the faith of the Gov^t. for—Pike"

The other one of the two inclosures is the following memorandum or indorsement of the State Department:

"The account against Pike inadmissible save the $1200 advanced him in Cash—and what may have been advanced to his men left in Mexico at the rate of $2^6¼/100 p. day—the Sum he asked for their subsistence—It appears to have been understood by Capt Pike that he was to find subsistence for himself & Party and that the Spanish Govert would meet the other expences of his Journey."

[V'-3] RiviÈre au Bois d'Arc of the French, as we should say Bodark, Bowdark, or Bowwood r., meaning the Osage. The reference is to the bois d'arc or bowwood, the Osage orange, Maclura aurantiaca, a well-known tree of the lower Mississippi valley, whose wood was formerly in great request for the purpose indicated in the vernacular name. It is very thorny, bears pruning well, and has come to be much cultivated for hedges. Its botanical affinities are with the mulberry.

[V'-4] The meaning of the clause is clear, though it may not be obvious on its face, owing to the use of "summoning" in a particular sense: compare Pike's use of "summons" in Art. 11, p. 825. Agreeably with etymology, "summoning" might be written submonition, on the model of admonition; the radical meaning of these two words is much the same, both conveying the idea of warning, with the implied force of enjoining, restraining, etc. Salcedo simply reminds Wilkinson that the Spanish government had warned the United States off those premises, and consequently that the latter should not have carried into effect any projects of, etc.

[V'-5] Sic—but "Alferez" is not a part of Walker's name, being his rank in the Mexican cavalry: read "Walker, ensign of," etc.

[V'-6] Thomas Humphrey Cushing of Massachusetts, a captain in the Continental Army, became a captain of the 2d Infantry, Mar. 4th, 1791; he was arranged to the second sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; promoted to be a major in the first sub-Legion Mar. 3d, 1793, and assigned to the 1st Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; he acted as inspector of the army from Feb. 27th, 1797, to May 22d, 1798, and became lieutenant-colonel of the 2d Infantry April 1st, 1802; he acted as adjutant and inspector-general from Mar. 26th, 1802, to May 9th, 1807, was promoted to the colonelcy of the 2d Infantry Sept. 7th, 1805, to a brigadier-generalship July 2d, 1812, and honorably discharged June 15th, 1815; he died Oct. 19th, 1822.

[V'-7] It will be observed that Pike's syntax leaves the personal pronoun equivocal. We naturally read that Sergeant Meek killed one of his own men, i.e., a man of Pike's party; and I have been more than once summonsed, during my editorial function, to say who this man was. But there is no record that I can discover, and no other intimation than the above ambiguous clause, that any man of Pike's or Meek's party was killed by Meek. On the contrary, Pike's final word about his men accounts for every one of them: see p. 855, and note there. In the absence of any further evidence, we must understand that Sergeant Meek killed one of General Salcedo's men; and if so, might easily be accused of "great intractability."

[V'-8] Of Virginia, appointed from Kentucky a second lieutenant of the 3d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, and transferred to the 2d Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802; became a first lieutenant of the same Dec. 20th, 1803, and resigned Jan. 31st, 1808; was made a captain of the first Rifles Mar. 8th, 1809, and appointed major Aug. 12th, 1814, but the appointment was negatived by the Senate Dec. 10th, 1814; he was honorably discharged June 15th, 1815, and died in 1819.

[V'-9] That is, Captain Pike wishes to know how he is to account for instruments which were damaged, or which he had ordered to be sold, to prevent further injury on a long march.

[V'-10] That is, F. capote, some sort of surtout, overcoat, or cloak, constantly confounded with F. capot, meaning hood. Among the Canadian voyageurs and other French in America, capote was the most general name of any such outer garment. It constantly occurs, for example, in annals of the fur-trade of the Northwest, capotes being made of several regulation sizes and styles, for barter with the Indians, as well as for wear of the men of the N. W. Company.

[VI'-1] This chapter, which appears to be a number of disjointed pieces, whose connection is not obvious, is really all of a part, being a certain Congressional matter. It is easily traced to its source in American State Papers, as the set of documents which Pike brought to bear on Congress for legislative action in his case, when he was trying to secure some appropriation to recompense himself and his companions for what they had undergone and accomplished during his two expeditions. Barring the way in which it was botched in this book, Nos. 6 and 13 are substantially the same as Doc. No. 259 of the 2d Session of the 10th Congress, being the report of a committee laid before the Ho. Reps. Dec. 16th, 1808, with accompanying papers, and as such will be found printed in American State Papers, folio, Washington, Gales and Seaton, 1834, pp. 942-944. The same volume contains, on p. 719, Doc. No. 248 of the 1st Session of the 10th Congress, being a previous report of a committee, communicated by John Montgomery, chairman, to the Ho. Reps., Mar. 10th, 1808. The same volume also contains, on p. 463, Doc. No. 212 of the 2d Session of the 9th Congress, a Report on Exploration of Western Waters, communicated by Mr. Alston to the Ho. Reps., Dec. 22d, 1806, mentioning Lewis and Clark, Pike, and Freeman, and recommending an annual appropriation for the purpose of such explorations. But none of these bills passed or became a law, though in Pike's own case they were, as we see, entirely favorable to his claim for extra remuneration. The case was reopened by Pike's widow, many years after his death; but nothing ever came of it. This seems hard, especially as Lewis and Clark and their men were well rewarded by Congressional legislation; but acts of Congress are as inscrutable as the ways of Providence, in any question of right or wrong. As to the composition of this chapter, see note¹, p. 807, and observe that we have: (1) The Report of the Congressional Committee of which Mr. Montgomery was chairman, recommending an appropriation. (2) A letter from the Secretary of War to this chairman, inclosing copies of instructions Pike received from Wilkinson for each of his expeditions. (3) A copy of one of these instructions, namely, for the Mississippi voyage, but no copy of the other which ought to appear here—for the reason, no doubt, that Pike had put it already in his book, as a sort of preface to Pt. 2: see note¹, p. 562. Both or neither of these instructions should have come here. (4) Dearborn's complimentary letter to Pike. (5) Pike's return of men, etc., or roster of his two parties, furnished for the information of Congress upon the question of who were the persons for whom reward was claimed.

[VI'-2] This roster is at variance with that given in the itinerary, p. 358, where it stands one lieutenant (Wilkinson), one doctor (Robinson, who was the volunteer), two sergeants (Ballenger and Meek), one corporal (Jackson), 16 privates (Boley, Bradley, Brown, Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Huddleston, Kennerman, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Smith, Sparks, Stoute, Wilson), and one interpreter (Vasquez). Compare note², pp. 358-360, and note⁵⁰, p. 510. Numerous other slips in this sketch, notably of dates, indicate that it was written from memory.

[VI'-3] It appears from Lieutenant Wilkinson's own report that he had but five men with him, the sergeant and four privates. Pike's enumeration of "six men" besides the sergeant includes the two Osages, whom he thus counts twice, to an aggregate of nine persons.

[VI'-4] As a pendent to the foregoing sketch, which was prepared for the information of Congress, may be presented a hitherto unpublished letter which Pike wrote to the Secretary of War soon after his arrival in Washington, when he transmitted reports of his Western Expedition. It is printed literally and punctually true to the manuscript now on file in the archives of the War Department.

Washington City .08
Jany. 26 ...

Sir!

I am at length enabled to present you with the reports of my late expidition from the period of our sailing from Belle Fontain on the 15^th. of July 1806; to my leaveing my Stockade on the Rio del Norte under escort of the Spanish Cavalry; on the 27. Feby. 07.

They should have been presented some time since, had I not have been imployed by the Commander in Chief, for a very consedrable proportion of my time since my arrival at the seate of Goverment:—It must be recollected that the Spanish General seized on all my Documents in his power; Amongst which [were] the book of Charts protracted, daily, from my notes and the eye; and although I retained a Copy of Courses, Distances, &c—by which I have been enabled to retrace my plans, and routes, yet they necessarily are not so perfect as the Original and daily protractions would have made them: They likewise obtained, and retained a note book engrossed with Observations on the manners, morals, and habits of the Aborigines of the countries through which we passed; the loss of which naturally abridged my desertation on those heads; also all my Meteorological tables to the entrance of their country where [were] amongst the papers sized [seized]: But what I regret the most was my Astronomical Observations having taken at Several of the most important points, the necessary Data, from which on my arrival at the United States, and having it in my power to refer to the appropriate tables and Calculations, I could have fixed the Latt. and Longitude and thereby secured the Great Geographical Object of giving a Determinate position to Various and important points of our Country, from having it in my power to correct the Chart which I now present you agreeably to the true principals of spherical projections. The few notes you see of the Latt. are ascertained from letters I wrote Gen^l. Wilkinson at different periods and the Longitude would have been preserved in the same manner had I have had tables with me which would have enabled me to calculate the immersions & emersions;—as well as angular distances at the time the observations were taken.—In the Chart herewith I have included all the Country between the La Platte of the Missouri and the Red river of the Mississsippi; and although it is, and from the nature of our information, of that immense district must be, very imperfect; yet I do not hesitate to assert it is the best extant: I have carefully remarkd on said Chart all the parts by actual survey and the Gentleman by whom surveyed, in order that each may lay claim to his proper proportion of fame.—You have also herewith L^t. Wilkinsons report of his expedition after I detached him down the Arkensaw, (and his seperate Chart on a large scale), in which he encountered immense dificulties in the accomplishment of the desired end.

I have not the talents nor passions requisite for the Botanist or Mineralogist, but had I have possessed them; the various duties I was oblidged to perform of commanding Officer, Surveyor; Astronomer; hunter; and advanced guard, together with the dreary season in which we travelled part of the route; with our minds much more actively employed in forming resources for our preservation from famine; and defence against any savage enemy who might assail us, then [than] examining the productions of Nature which was under our feet and Instead of our eyes being directed to the Ground; they were endeavouring to peace [pierce] the Wild before us—or giveing distinction and form to moveing Bodies on the distant Prairies—or enjoying the rapturous sublimity of the unbounded prospects which were frequently presented to our View's. Yet Doc^r. Robinson who possessed both talents, and taste for those pursuits; has promised to enclose me some remarks which no doubt will be interesting; and if received shall be presented to the War Department.

After I entered the Spanish Dominions I was as careful to conceal any notes or observations, I made on their country as I had been indifferent to all that related to what was in the conceived Territories of the United States; Trusting to the dignified title of an American Officer; the Caution with which I conceived the Spanish Goverment would act and an Idea I had eroneously formed of their want of Energy; yet owing to some Indications I was induced to conceal my journal and other papers, leaving the Book of Charts &c for to lull any suspicions which might arise from their being no papers in the trunks. I now wish General Dearborne to signify to me the extent he wishes me to enter in the of my involuntary Tour through the Internal Provences of New Spain if it is thought proper: I can give (from the Notes and Documents in my possession) in addition to my Diary and Corrispondences with the Spanish Governors relative to my Detention, seizure of my papers, the subsistence of my party &c; A General Idea of the Commerce, morals, manners, Arts, and Sciences: A correct account of their Military posts, with a well founded estimate of the whole Militia of the Provences; their population, and relative connexion with each other. Also, an Idea of their Annual revenue, the monies coined at the mint &c. Some suggestions on the sate [state] and influence of the Catholc Religion, The Dispositions of the Inferior Clergy—to close whole with a view of the general tendency of the Country to a revolution, the interests of the United States in case of that event; or the best mode of Treating with New Spain in case of a rupture with the Mother Country; with a General Chart of those parts of the provinces through which we passed. This may be takeing to wide a field for the time, the Goverment may wish to allow me in making the report; or they may possess, information on those subjects from pens far abler than mine, who may have anticepated those suggestions in their full extent.

I beg leave at this moment to call the attention of the Secy of War to the situation of the remaining part of my Detachment in New Spain which consists of one Interpreter, a Young man of Good family in upper Louisiania whose salary is 500 Dollars pr—Annum, one Sergeant, one Corporal and five privates; several of those poor fellows have become cripples from their limbs being frozen, and are in a strange country amongst people whose language they cannot understand, from their long detention without any information from their native Land, dispair will seize their minds, and will picture to their immaginations Years of Confinement in a foreign Country—I who was late their Companion in dificulties and Dangers cannot so soon forget our forlorne situation, and the obligations I am under to them for the promtitude with which they encountered danger, and fortitude they exhibited, and the fidility and attachment they evinced to their Military Commander, and leader, through those scenes; as not to exert myself to call forth the attention of the Government in their favour: I therefore hope that General Dearborne will take such measures as may be deemed expediant in order to restore those poor Lads to the service of their Country.

I am Sir With High Respect and
Consideration
Your Ob^t. Ser^t.
[Signed] Z. M. Pike Captain
1st UStates Reg^t. Infy

The Hon^l.
Henry Dearborne.
Sec. of War.

[VI'-5]The dagger set at Mountjoy's name is probably an error: see note², pp. 358-360, and note⁵⁰, p. 510. Mountjoy was certainly one of those who accompanied Pike from the Rio Conejos into Mexico, and there is no evidence that he was dropped anywhere in that country. Also, Pike says that only "five" privates were detained in Mexico when he made a report to the Secretary of War, dated at Washington, Jan. 26th, 1808: see p. 853. Furthermore, witness the following hitherto unpublished document, which I find in the archives of the War Department, and in which Mountjoy's name does not appear:

"Return of a Detachment of Infantry of the Army of the U: States, detained at Chihuahua, the Seat of Government for the Internal Provinces of New Spain, by Order of the Commandant General of those Provinces, in the year 1807.—

• "Baroney Vasquez—Interpreter
• William E. Meek—Sergeant
• Jeremiah Jackson—Corporal
• Thomas Dougherty—Private
• Jacob Carter—Ditto
• John Sparks—d^o.
• Theodore Miller—d^o.
• Patrick Smith—d^o.

"[Signed] Z. M. PIKE Captain
"1^st UStates Regt Infy"

Above in clerk's hand, Pike's signature. Rec'd at War Dept. May 3d, 1808.