Renown of Pau—Lectoure—The Labourer-Duke—Auch—Tarbes—The Princess and the Count—Costume—Arrival at Pau—The Promenades—The Town—Improvements—First Impressions—Walks—Buildings—Hotels—The Magnificent Baker—The Swain—Tou-Cai! CHAPTER IIThe Climate of Pau—Storms—Fine Weather—Palassou—Reasons for going to Pau—The Winter CHAPTER IIIThe Castle of Henri Quatre—- The Furniture—The Shell—The Statue—The Birth—Castel Beziat—The Fairy Gift—A Change—Henri Quatre CHAPTER IVTroubadour CHAPTER VRoad from Pan to Tarbes—Table Land—The Pics—The Haras of Tarbes—Autumn in the Pyrenees—Mont l'HÉris—Gabrielle d'EstrÉes—Chasseaux Palombes—Penne de l'HÉris—Pic du Midi—Charlet the Guide—Valley of Campan—La Gatta—Grip—The Tourmalet—Campana del Vasse—BarÈges—Luz—Cagot Door—Gavarine—The Fall of the Rock—Chaos—Circus—Magnificence of Nature—Pont de Neige—Roland—Durendal—Izards—Les CrÂnes—Pierrefitte—Cauteretz—Cerizet—Pont d'Espagne—Lac de Gaube—Argelez CHAPTER VIVallÉe d'Ossau—Le Hourat—The Rio Verde—Eaux Chaudes—Eaux Bonnes—- Bielle—Izeste—Saccaze, the Naturalist CHAPTER VIIGabas—Popular Songs—Pont Crabe—The Recluse of the VallÉe d'Ossau—Marguerite—The Springs CHAPTER VIIIPeasants of Ossau—Capitivity of Francis the First—Death of Joyeuse—Death of the Duke de Maine—Dances CHAPTER IXCoarraze—Orton—The Pont Long—Les Belles CantiniÈres—MorlÀas—The CurÉ—Resintance to Improvement—Uzain—Lescar—Reformation in Navarre—Tombs—FranÇois Phoebus—The Mother CHAPTER XThe Romances of the Castle of Orthez—Tour de Moncade—The Infants—The Son of Gaston Phoebus—Legends—The Oath—The bad King of Navarre—The Quarrel—The Murder—Death of Gaston Phoebus—Paradise the Reward of Hunters—The Captive—The Step-Mother—The Young Countess—The Great Bear—The Return—The Real Cause—The Meeting in the Forest—The Mass CHAPTER XIThe Countess of Comminges—The Charge—The persecuted Heiress—The Bridge—The Cordelier—Costume—Aspremont—Peyrehourade CHAPTER XIIBayonne-Public Walks—Biaritz—Atalaya—Giant Fernagus—Anne of Neubourg—The Dancing Mayor CHAPTER XIIIBasque Language—Dialects—Words—Poetry—Songs—The Deserter—Character—Drama—Towns CHAPTER XIVCagots—Cacous of Brittany CHAPTER XVThe Cagot—VallÉe d'Aspe—Superstitions—Forests—Despourrins—The two Gaves—Bedous—High-road to Saragossa—Cascade of Lescun—Urdos—A Picture for Murillo—La Vache CHAPTER XVIAramitz—The Play—MaulÉon—The Sisters—Words—St. Jean CHAPTER XVIIArneguy—The Cacolet—Rolando's Tree—Snow-white Goats—Costume—Sauveterre—The Pastor—Navarreux—Spanish Air |