In this lesson is explained how to repair and reline coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, Tuxedos, Dress Coats, Vests, Prince Alberts, also Ladies' Jackets and Coats. How to put new Silk facings on coats. How to repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom. How to put velvet collars on coats. The use of basting thread. How to prevent trousers bagging at the knee. How to prepare button holes for working. How to make button holes. Darning a three-cornered tear. Hems and felling same. Back stitching.

INSTRUCTIONS IN REPAIRING.

To reline all kinds of coats and jackets for men and women. When new lining is required in coats, rip out the old lining, starting to rip the sleeve lining, first around top or sleeve head, then at the bottom or cuff. Now remove the whole lining and rip apart and iron out smooth and use as a pattern for the new, cutting new lining out exactly same size as the pattern, down the seams, but for convenience in working, allow two seams longer at the bottom and two seams longer at the top. Place one top and one bottom sleeve lining together, Baste seams, having the two right sides of lining together, and seam on machine, (or one may sew the seams on the machine without basting, this may be done with a little practice), press seams open on small end of press-jack, baste top of sleeve lining in; all around, one-quarter of an inch, now turn right sleeve inside out and baste right sleeve lining in by fastening the back seam of the sleeve lining to that of the back sleeve seam of coat, baste with long loose stitches, start basting two inches below top of sleeve, to two inches within the bottom, being careful not to get lining in too short (take one quarter inch seam when sewing on machine), as this will cause sleeve to draw up, and hang in wrinkles, now fasten the front arm seams same as back, so that each seam will come directly on top of the sleeve seam. Turn sleeve right side out, and mark with chalk on lining of coat at each sleeve seam and baste sleeve seams at top of sleeve lining to correspond with the sleeve seams of garment, and baste lining all around until one becomes familiar with the work.

Now see that the lining is sufficiently long; cut lining off even with the bottom of the cuff, and baste sleeve lining up two inches from the bottom. Then with needle and silk fell around both sleeves, top and bottom. Turn sleeve right side out and remove basting stitches.

Rip out the body lining, starting at the right facing, and rip down and around the pocket to one inch above and one inch below the pocket across bottom, up side seam, and across shoulder. Then remove lining, and iron out smooth, to use as a pattern, for new lining as before, leaving the left side of the lining in as a guide to the beginner as to how the lining should be placed. Then cut the new lining for the right side one half inch larger all around than the pattern for allowance in shrinking, and also for convenience while working. Then baste lining in right side, being careful not to put lining in too tight. Rather have it too long, but not so long that it hangs below the bottom of garment. Coats will not hang well with tight or short lining. Turn edge of lining in down front, and across bottom with basting, and fasten lining to side seam of forepart with long loose basting stitches. Then rip lining out of left side and iron out smoothly for a pattern, cut and baste in new lining on left side the same as explained for the right. Now cut the back lining double and seam down back centre seam, basting one inch plait for ease, then press to one side, and baste in back, and turn all edges in, down side seams, across bottom and shoulders, and back of neck. Now fasten lining all around arm hole to the seam, thereby holding lining in place, so as not to allow it to come loose. Cut lining off even with seam all around arm hole, then baste sleeve lining around.

Cut lining to back of pocket, and at back end, cut lining in a trifle to allow working, and for turning in around the pocket, and fell lining in all around the pocket mouth, and proceed to fell the lining, doing the same with the left side. Now finish felling the entire coat. Remove basting stitches, and finish garment in the usual way.

Ladies' jackets and coats are relined in the same way, also all kinds of men's coats and overcoats included.

When new silk facings are required for coats, remove the old facing, and use it as a pattern for the new, and when cutting the new facing, allow three quarters of an inch all around for convenience, while working. Baste new silk facing on very neat, and take time to do good work. When basting is completed, fell all around with fine silk, being careful not to draw the stitches tight, nor to contract the edge.

Try to have the new silk facing put on so that it will look better than the old one did when new. This will bring you customers. The price to charge for such work is by the hour and for material used.

TO RELINE VESTS.

Rip old lining and back out of right side, and iron out smooth for a pattern.

Now cut forepart lining one half inch larger all around and baste in forepart lining, observing how the left is put in. Baste edges of lining in, down facing, across bottom and around arm hole, (when one becomes familiar the right sides of lining may be placed to that of the foreparts and sewed around the armholes by machine, thereby saving the felling by hand).

Now rip left inside lining out and replace it with new lining, same as the right. Fell all around, then iron the back lining out smooth for a pattern, cutting it exactly the same size as the old one, and mark with chalk, where seam was sewn before. Cut inside lining the same size, and seam back seams on the machine, and press open (or one may stitch to one side), place right sides together to sew; smooth with iron, and baste the right forepart, side seam to that of the back lining, also to the shoulder. Baste left side the same way. Now baste the inside lining to inside of vest. This will leave an opening at the top of neck and bottom. Now baste, placing both back seams together, and baste each way to the side seams. This will leave an opening, now only at the neck, thereby forming a pocket, or bag for the vest, as it were. Sew with machine, in same seam as at first, down side seam, across shoulder, and bottom, and around arm holes, notch lining around back arm hole. Remove basting, and turn vest right side out at the neck. Baste lining even around bottom and arm hole. Now baste lining across back of neck, inside and out, then fell entire lining.

When basting the shoulders of vest, have the back lining one quarter of an inch full in the hollow of front of shoulder, to allow for stretching, and to form a concave.

Should vests require to be made larger, when one has the lining out, all one has to do, is to mark with chalk or thread, the amount to be made larger, adding amount from the old seam on back, and baste forepart side seams to the mark to be made larger. If new pockets are required, and one is not familiar with the work, remove the pocket very carefully, observing every detail as to how it should be put together. Iron out smooth and cut new pocket, seam around, all but mouth, and place inside of pocket, and turn edges in all around top or mouth of pocket, and fell with silk same color as pocket (never remove welt from pocket when only new pockets are required). Should the buttonholes need repairing, repair them. Also see that the buttons are sewed on firm. Darn all holes, and clean and allow to dry before new lining is placed.

NEW WAIST BAND LINING IN TROUSERS.

Remove old one, and iron out smooth and use for pattern. Cut new one out and baste in and fell around tops and down sides, and fasten at pockets to hold in place. If new buttons are required, sew them on before new lining is placed, so as not to sew through the lining. Repair trousers where needed.

To repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom run a basting thread around both sleeves five inches from the bottom of cuff, to hold lining in place, then rip sleeve lining around the bottom, unfasten the turn up of sleeve from the wigan, (darn sleeve edge if necessary when it is worn through), now baste up firmly one eighth of an inch, or as much more as the sleeve will allow and still be of sufficient length, (run basting one-quarter inch from bottom), fasten the turn up back to the wigan with basting (this basting is left in); now let sleeve lining come down, and if it is longer than to the end of cuff; cut off what comes below.

Then turn sleeve lining in on the turn up two inches from the bottom of cuff with basting stitches, and fell lining with silk same color as the cloth or lining. Finish both sleeves the same. Remove basting, turn sleeves right side out; and press all around cuff as explained. When felling do not take long stitches, short ones look neater and are stronger and work will have a better appearance when finished. Should the sleeve be finished with stitching around the cuff, finish the same when repairing. Sew buttons on, this completes the repairing of sleeves at the bottom.

HOW TO PUT VELVET COLLARS ON COATS.

Remove old one, pick out old stitches in coat collar (the old stitches in velvet do not matter), place coat in a convenient manner on the press-jack and press collar and lapels into shape.

Cut new velvet collar one-eighth inch larger on each side than the pattern, or larger if necessary, and steam over an iron as explained. Stretch the edges a trifle on each side of velvet, being careful not to leave finger or thumb marks, and when cool, baste on coat, (silk thread should be used when basting velvet) in collar crease through velvet to hold in place.

Run another basting below crease and in the stand of collar, and another row of basting on leaf of collar close to the crease. Run another basting near the outside edge of collar leaf, and form a cushion at each end to allow ample room for ends to curl under (instead of up). See that the velvet is not basted on too tight or too short.

Now turn velvet in over old seam or stitches on the inside of coat collar, from end to end; and baste velvet over edge and all around leaf. Now cut velvet off even along the leaf, then fell inside of velvet to coat neck with silk to match; and herringbone velvet to leaf all around from end to end. Make a loop or hanger out of a straight piece of lining one-half inch wide, and turn all edges in and fold again and fell together; now sew to the coat as before, turning both edges of loop in, and tacking same through stand of collar. Remove all basting by cutting each stitch and pulling out from the right side, and with the nap of the velvet.

TO STEAM COLLAR.

Place iron on its side, cover with a piece of paper, over this lay a wet sponge cloth; then hold coat collar very close to steaming cloth (when one is familiar with the work they may allow the collar to rest on the steaming cloth for a minute), and move back and forth, allowing steam to come through the velvet. Then remove the collar and shape by hand, as when worn. Brush the nap gently to freshen while steaming, but with a very soft brush. Place on coat hanger, and allow to dry before wearing or delivering.

Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and corners, lightness of touch which holds the work without apparently touching it, will give to the finished garment a fresh look.

All these are important considerations.

When darning, great care must be taken to have the work finished up neatly, as darning and mending is an art, and like everything else, requires patience and practice.

Basting is only used in the preparation of work, to hold stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work together, while it is being stitched, as none of the basting is left in the finished garment. It is also used as a guide for sewing and marking on light colored goods as it will not leave a mark as would colored chalk. For ordinary work, basting stitches should be cut every few inches and drawn out.

It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the knee, but here is an idea that will help materially to keep knees in shape. Fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to the seams and across bottom and top seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, being careful not to allow stitches to show through on right side.Buttonholes may be made easy to work by spacing off the number required, with pins or thread marks.

Mark length of hole, and stitch on a machine the desired length, then turn at right angles and take two stitches, then turn back and stitch other side. Turn at right angles and take two more stitches, thereby tacking both ends. All buttonholes may be stitched in one garment without removing from the machine.

This method takes the place of serging or overcasting and is much better for thin ravelly goods.

MAKING BUTTONHOLES.

Buttonholes should be overcasted or serged as soon as cut, with fine thread or silk, the stitches should be light, loose and even, this is done with a slanting stitch.

Making buttonholes: Insert the needle on the edge of the material and when half way through, take the two threads at the eye of the needle bring them towards you at the right and under the point of the needle, drawing the thread from you, making the purl or loop stitch come directly on the edge of the buttonhole. Stitches should lay close together just far enough apart for the purl or loop stitch to form, always have each stitch of the universal length so the stitches will look straight on each side of the buttonhole, the stitches may be placed closer together at the end as most wear comes there.

DARNING A THREE CORNERED TEAR.

A three cornered tear may be darned in two ways. Commence by darning diagonally through the center, darning back and forth towards the end of the tear until one-half has been finished; then begin at the center and work in the opposite direction. At the corner, the stitches should form the shape of a fan. Another method which is stronger, is done by darning a square in the angle, first with the warp threads, then with the woof threads, and finishing each end across the tear.

HEMS AND THE FELLING OF SAME.

A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge. The fold should be turned even and straight with the thread of the material, on this depends the neatness of one's work. The hem should always be turned in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, leaving one-eighth inch space for working. Felling—when felling or hemming, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming take small stitches close together, even, and do not draw thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw.

BACK STITCHING.

The back stitch is made by placing the needle back in the last stitch, bringing it out once the length of the last stitch, then placing the needle back into last stitch and so on, being careful not to draw the thread too tight as to have a drawing appearance, make the stitches follow each other without leaving a space between. Back stitching is used in places where much strain is on the seam.

Bias hems, such as sleeve head lining, etc.

All bias hems and curved edges, should have the folds basted in.