Consists of several formulas for making Standard cleaning fluids, and the best method of using same, in the cleaning of all kinds of garments. How to prepare garments to be cleaned. How to steam clean. How to dry clean. The secret of success in cleaning. To clean velvet and velveteen. To remove paint, tar, grease and ink from garments. How to wash woolens. How to wash black woolen dresses. How to clean silk, satin and lace. To remove grease from delicate fabrics. To remove stains from linen and cotton goods. A formula for making moth preventative.

CLEANING FLUID.

(Formula.)

2 ounces Chloroform.
3 ounces Wood Alcohol.
2 ounces Sulphur Ether.
2 ounces Spirit of Wine.
10 ounces Ammonia.
3 ounces Oil of Turpentine.
2 ounces Glycerine.
Place all seven chemicals in one bottle.
3 ounces Borax.
3 ounces French Castile Soap.

DIRECTIONS TO MIX:

Cut the French Castile Soap in fine shavings, dissolve them together with the Borax, in four quarts of boiling water, cool this solution, being careful that all the soap is dissolved, then strain through muslin or thin woolen cloth, to remove any sediment. Then add the other seven chemicals, mix and shake well. This will make five quarts Cleaning Fluid.

This cleaning fluid may be used on any garment with good results, as it will not injure the fibre of the cloth. Always rinse spot good with clean water and sponge, after using cleaning fluids.

HOW TO PREPARE A SIMPLE CLEANING FLUID.

(Formula.)

4 ounces Ammonia.
4 ounces Bay Rum.
1-6 ounce Salt Peter.

To this add one pint of clean water, pour in a small neck bottle, keep well corked to avoid evaporating.

This preparation will remove fresh or hard paint, tar, grease, oil and in fact any spots from clothing, dress goods, carpets, rugs, and all woolen goods without injury to the fabric. The above may be obtained at any drug store.

HOW TO PREPARE MOTH PREVENTATIVE.

(Formula.)

4 ounces Powder Borax.
4 ounces Powder Alum.
4 ounces Powder Camphor.

Mix all three chemicals together thoroughly. This will make a white powder. Sprinkle freely around and under carpets before laying, also over clothing not in use. This powder will not leave a stain, and is easily brushed off. Use freely wherever moths appear.

HOW TO USE THE CLEANING FLUIDS.

Dampen a sponge or woolen cloth (white flannel is the best as there is no color to come out) by dipping it in the cleaning fluid, which has been poured into a basin for that purpose and convenience. Rub the spot to be cleaned with the dampened sponge, woolen cloth or flannel) with the thread or nap of the cloth until the grease and dirt is loosened, then rinse with clean water, (always rinse sponge, cloth or flannel in clean water before cleaning the stain a second time with pure water) until stain entirely disappears.

Always clean garments before repairing or relining.

HOW TO PREPARE GARMENTS TO BE CLEANED.

Turn all pockets inside out. Brush thoroughly and whip with cane if necessary, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment.

See that the dust and dirt is thoroughly removed from the pockets, then return pockets to their place. This is a very important part and one which is very often neglected and overlooked. The garment is then ready to be cleaned. Proceed as above explained. If one application is not sufficient to remove the spots, repeat until spots are thoroughly removed.

Coats are usually very dirty and greasy around the collar also down the fronts, great care should be taken to clean thoroughly and rinse often, thereby removing all stains.

All coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies' jackets, coats, waists, and all kinds of skirts should be cleaned by this same method.

HOW TO STEAM CLEAN.

To steam clean coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies jackets and skirts and all wool garments:

Place each garment in a basin of warm water first, and with soap and a brush go over the entire garment thoroughly, including sleeve lining.

Second—pour water off and fill basin again with warmer water than at first, and wash with stiff brush and soap as before, using three waters or until garment is thoroughly cleaned.

Remove soap water (do not wring garments but allow to drip, or squeeze water out) and rinse in hot water, then warm, then cooler, and so on until cold, adding one tablespoonful of coarse salt. (Dissolve salt in cold water before placing in basin). This will prevent garment from shrinking. Place on hanger to retain their shape, allowing water to drip out. Straighten out wrinkles as much as possible when drying, thus making the pressing easier, and when thoroughly dry, proceed to press as explained. If any spots remain after this process, remove with ammonia.

For those who perspire under the arms freely, dress shields placed in the bottom of the arm holes of coats will be of great benefit.

HOW TO DRY CLEAN.

Use a basin large enough to hold one gallon of gasolene and the garment to be cleaned. (Being careful to keep gasolene away from the stove or a lighted candle, lamp, or gas.)

Place one gallon of gasolene in the basin with the coat, and swash up and down until all grease and dirt has been loosened, then place on hangers in the open air, allowing to dry and gasolene to evaporate.

Before dipping the coat in the basin, see that all dust and dirt is removed from the pockets by turning them inside out and brushing, also brush all seams.

Use half a gallon for the vest, and one gallon for the trousers. The more gasolene used, the better will be the results.

Gasolene may be used a second time on black goods, after filtering or settling, but never on light colored materials, ladies' jackets, coats, wool waists, and skirts may be cleaned in the same way.

Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine and ammonia should be of the best and purest, when used for cleaning purposes.

The secret of success in cleaning, is by dipping the garment in a large quantity of the liquid. Not less than a gallon of gasolene, benzine or naptha should be used for a coat, jacket or skirt. Two gallons will do the work better. One should remove all spots if possible before dipping in the liquid. It is a good idea to surround each spot with a basting thread as when wet, some spots do not show. Soak each garment in the clear liquid, then soap all spots thoroughly, rub gently between the hands until spots disappear. Then wash and rinse garment in clear liquid. Place on hangers in the open air, or drying room, allowing odor to pass away.

Soap may be used for cleaning in connection with gasolene with good results. One may use a little ammonia with the gasolene and soap. The goods should be well shaken, and pull all folds out straight with the threads of the goods. Velveteen, velvet and corduroy may be cleaned with gasolene, when pile or nap is not much worn.

When cleaning velvet, or any other fabric, the most important part is to have all the dust and dirt removed, by brushing the garment or fabric thoroughly.

To clean a velvet collar that is not too greasy, and the nap not worn off: Wet a piece of woolen cloth or flannel in gasolene and rub lightly, until the grease and dirt is loosened. Then apply more gasolene with a clean woolen cloth, and remove all grease and dirt. Place on hanger in the open air to dry and to evaporate before steaming. When much gasolene is used hang coat so that the collar hangs down, to allow the gasolene to drip out and evaporate, before steaming. Always being careful not to use gasolene near a stove, lighted candle, lamp or gas.

When using gasolene for cleaning purposes, have it in a gasolene or benzine safety can, used for that purpose, which may be had at any hardware store.

To remove old hard paint or tar, apply the cleaning fluid freely and place the sponge cloth over spot and press with the iron, as there is nothing that will loosen paint or tar as well as steam or heat. If one application is not sufficient repeat until loosened, then scrape off; after that use more cleaning fluid to remove any stains that may remain, then rinse in clean water.

To remove ink stains from woolen materials:

Apply cleaning fluid, two or three times, washing spots each time with clean water, and sponge until stain disappears.

HOW TO WASH WOOLENS.

Place four ounces of soap bark in a gallon of water in a kettle on a stove to boil, then add two more gallons of water. Throw this over the goods, that has been placed in another basin for that purpose and rub with the hands. Rinse in warm water, and hang up to dry. Iron on the wrong side when damp, until dry, (this will remove all wrinkles and make goods look like new). This is especially good for worn garments, that are to be cut and made over.

Woolens should be squeezed, and not wrung, and the wrinkles straightened out while drying.

HOW TO WASH BLACK WOOLEN DRESSES.

Have the dress ripped apart, brushed, and all dust and dirt removed from the seams, also all the old stitches. Pour four gallons of water in a pail or basin, adding four ounces of ammonia. Dip each piece of the garment into the liquid, and swash up and down, and squeeze as dry as possible, then hang over a pole, and when almost dry, iron from the wrong side until dry, with an iron not too hot.

Woolen dresses, that are much soiled, may be washed in soap and water, and rinsed out before dipping in the ammonia water, which will improve the color to a great extent.

Any material, such as worsted, and wool garments should be sponged with ammonia and water.

When cleaning with gasolene, benzine or naptha, to remove the odor, the article should be placed as near a steam radiator as possible, or in a drying room heated by steam or otherwise, this removes the odor, the steam heat dries out whatever of the fluid may have remained in the material, and does so without the danger of explosion which makes it impossible to dry a garment cleaned with the above near a lighted stove, lamp, candle or gas.

HOW TO WASH CHAMOIS VESTS.

Wash with white soap and warm water, making a good lather and rubbing well between the hands. Lay flat on a table, and rub with a dry, clean cloth; rinse; then roll in another cloth and wring as dry as possible. Unroll and stretch well; hang up, and when nearly dry press with a warm iron, being careful not to have the iron too hot or it will spoil the chamois.

HOW TO CLEAN SILK.

Use hot gasolene, heated in a double boiler (never put gasolene on a stove) place the gasolene in the double boiler, after it has been removed from the stove and while the water is still boiling, place the silk to be cleaned in the boiler, and swash up and down until it is thoroughly cleaned, then remove and place in the open air to dry and evaporate.

TO CLEAN BLACK SILK.

Brush and wipe with flannel cloth, lay on a table with the side to be worn up; then sponge with hot coffee (strain coffee through muslin before using). When damp, lay cloth on and iron until thoroughly dry.

TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK.

Use a lump of magnesia (moistened), rub on the spot and allow to dry; then brush powder off. Repeat if necessary.Silks and satins should be sponged with ammonia and water. It is not necessary to soak ribbon, unless they are very dirty. Only black material should be cleaned with strong ammonia as a difference in the dye stuffs may cause the material to turn red, wherever the ammonia touches it.

To clean a colored silk dress, mix together four ounces of soap, six ounces of honey, and a pint and a quarter of gin, rub in well with small brush, rinse each piece at once in cold water thoroughly, drain and iron while wet. This is especially good for black, also black and white silks.

Silks may be stiffened by adding two or three lumps of sugar, or half a teaspoonful of gum Arabic to the water. Place over a round pole and while damp place a piece of muslin over the silk and iron until dry.

TO CLEAN BLACK LACE.

To a cup of strong tea, add one-half teaspoonful of gum Arabic. Dip the lace into the liquid, and squeeze it dry, two or three times (do not wring). Roll in a cloth and when almost dry, straighten out all the scallops carefully by hand, being careful to have it of universal width, and place on a soft cloth or padded board and lay a piece of muslin over it, then iron until dry. This is suitable for ordinary lace. But real lace should be pinned or tacked to a board, being careful to draw out all loops of the edge, and not drag the lace out of shape.

All stains and spots should be removed as soon as possible. Ink stains may be taken out of clothing by dipping the spot in milk, and squeezing the blackened milk into a basin, dipping in clear milk again. Repeat this process until the ink stain has entirely disappeared; then wash the cloth in warm water, to remove the fat in the milk.

Some inks are very difficult to remove but with a little patience, one of the processes will remove any ink stain.

To remove grease spots from delicate fabrics, requires great care. When the color and fabric will not be injured, use the cleaning fluid. Otherwise use French chalk or magnesia powder. Place upon the spots, allow to remain for a short time. This will often absorb the grease. If one application is not sufficient, brush off and apply again until the spot disappears.When water may be used on the cloth, the chalk may be made into a paste and spread on the spot and left until dry then brush off.

When color of a piece of goods has been accidentally or otherwise destroyed by acid. Apply ammonia to neutralize the same after which an application of chloroform will in almost every case restore the spot to its original color.

TO REMOVE STAINS FROM COTTON AND LINEN GOODS.

To remove stains from linen and cotton, wet spots with luke warm water, then squeeze the juice of a lemon over the stain, sprinkle with salt, then place in the sun to hasten bleaching. If one application is not sufficient to remove the stains, repeat until thoroughly cleaned.

To remove scorch from cotton, place in the hot sun until scorch disappears.

To remove machine oil from white linen, cotton, or light goods. Rub with pure white lard, then wash with warm water and soap.

To remove iron rust.—Dip in medium strong solution of oxalic acid, then hold over the spout of a boiling tea kettle. Rinse the spot in two or three waters, then wash in the usual way.

To remove Fruit and Berry Stains.—Place spot over a bowl and pour boiling water through the cloth until stain disappears.

To remove Mildew.—Rub soap on the damaged article then salt and starch on that; rub well in and place in the sun until spots entirely disappear.

Fruit, ink, blood and other stains should be removed before the clothes are wet in the laundry. Tea, coffee, wine and most fruit stains, can be taken out with clear boiling water, by stretching the stained portions over a bowl and pouring hot water through. If they do not come out, use a solution of borax, ammonia and chloride of lime, or burn some sulphur and hold the stains over the fumes. Fresh ink stains may be removed by an application of dampened salt, allow to remain for several hours, or soak in warm milk or vinegar and water. Lemon juice and salt placed on the spots will often suffice.

Grass stains are most difficult to remove. Dip the spots in molasses; let it remain until thoroughly saturated, then wash out in clean water. Repeat if necessary.

Mud Stains—May be removed by soaking spots in a solution of oxalic acid. Rinse in several waters; then in ammonia and water last.

Cocoa stains may be removed by sprinkling borax over the spot. Then soak in cold water, and pour on boiling water.

Obstinate blood stains—Should be saturated in kerosene, then rubbed with soap and washed in luke warm water.

To prevent muslin from fading—Use a weak solution of sugar of lead.

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