| Date. | Miles Covered. | OBSERVATIONS, ETC.
(Exact copy from original Field Papers) |
| March 1908. | 18 | 26 | Svartevoeg. Made cache here for return. Supporting party goes back. Noon start; 4 men, 46 dogs, 4 sleds; 26 miles. Ice heavy, wavy; little snow; crystals hard; land screened by drift. Camp on old field. Night uncomfortable; air humid, penetrating. Snowhouse of hard snow imperfectly made. (Other notes of this date so dim that they cannot be read. Compass directions, unless otherwise noted, are true.) |
| 19 | 21 | Clearer, overland thick; -56° F.; Wind 2 W.; sun feeble; blue haze. On march, ice smaller; use of axe; crossings troublesome. Camp lee of big hummock. Cannot send supply back; must follow for another day. |
| 20 | 16 | Land more clearly visible; sky overcast; wind W. S. W. 1; ice worse. Small igloo. The last feed men return. |
| 21 | 29 | Awoke, sun N. E.; orange glow; -63° F.; bar. 30.10, steady; no clouds; sky pale purple. More snow (on ice); groaning sledges; mirages, lands, mountains, volcanoes. Air light; wind sky N.; Grant Land a mere line; -46°. Torture of light snow; march 14 hours. |
| 22 | 22 | A. M.; wind E. 3; -59°. Start 12 (noon); sky clearer; wind 2; water sky N. Grant Land visible P. M. (Later) Temp. rose to -46°. Wind tolerably high; pressure lines; the big lead. Camp on old field on bank; ice noises; search for the crossing. Young, elastic ice. |
| 23 | 17 | Cross the big lead. Young ice elastic and dangerous; western sky again threatening; ice movement east; fields small; narrow open lanes. Course for 85th on 97th; -40°; march 11 hours; 23 miles, credit 17 miles. Ice noises; night beautiful; sun sank into pearly haze. (Later) Orange glow; pack violet and pale purple blue; sky late—partly cl. appearance of land W. |
| 24 | 18 | Observations 83.31—96.27; -41°; bar. 29.70. West bank of fog and haze. Start afternoon; no life; old seal hole and bear tracks; long march; ice improving. 10 h.; pedometer 21 m.; camp in coming storm; rushing clouds; signs of land W. 18 m. (credited on course). |
| 25 | 18 | Early awakened by dogs. Storm spent soon; sunrise temp. -26°, later -41°; west again smoky. Back to the bags; cracking ice; the breaking and separating ice and the crevasse episode; in a bag and in water; ice-water and pemmican; masks of ice. Good march over newly-fractured ice; ice in motion. |
| 26 | 17 | Still windy; some drift snow; another storm threatening. How we need rest! Strong wind during the night. Position D. R. 84.24—96.53. |
| 27 | 16 | In camp until noon. Strong winds all night; eased at noon; clearing some; sun; weather unsettled. Short run; squally en route; made early camp. Bar. 29.05. |
| 28 | 0 | Weather still unsettled. Temp. -41°; Bar. 29.15; west ugly. No progress. The drift. In camp. Anxious about stability of igloo. The collapsed camp. Midnight; north cloudy, but ice bright; many hummocks. |
| 29 | 9 | Start early P. M. A little blue in the west; sun bursts; pack disturbed; hard traveling, due to fresh crevasses. Camp midnight; only 9 miles. |
| 30 | 10 | Land, 9 A. M., cleared; land was seen; westerly clouds settled over it. Observations 84.50, 95.36; bearing of land, southern group, West by South to West by North true. Other bearings taken later place a coast line along the 102 meridian from lat. 84° 20´ to 85° 10´. There must be much open water about the land, for banks of vapor persistently hide part. A low fog persistent; cannot see shore; for days we have expected to see something W., but never a clear horizon. Probably two island S. like Heiberg, 1,800 ft. high, valleys, mountains, snow N., table 1,000, thin ice sheet, bright nights. From observation paper: Bar. 30.10, had risen from 29.50 in 2 hours; wind 2-3 mag. S.; clouds mist, East, water-bands W.; shadow (of 6 ft. pole) 39 ft. |
| 31 | 10 | Land screened by mist; wind W. 2-0. Ice fracture; no sign of life—none since 83. |
| April 1908. | 1 | 26 | (Time of traveling) 9 to 6; ice better; fields larger; crevasses less troublesome; temp. -32°. There is no more darkness at night. |
| 2 | 12 | (Start) 9.30; (stop) 8. Smooth ice; hard snow; ice 28 ft. and 32. Night bright but cloudy. Temp. -35°; bar. 30.10; leads difficult. |
| 3 | 10 | 8.30 to 6.30. Temp. -39°; bar. 30.12; sky clearing at noon, but low clouds and frosty haze persist in the W. and N. Night bright; sun at midnight under cloud and haze. |
| 4 | 14 | 8.45 to 6.10. Snow softer; used snowshoes; have crossed 11 crevasses; much chopping; brash and small hummocks. |
| 5 | 14 | 9 (A. M.) to 5.45 (P. M.). Snow better. Ice larger. Oh, so tired! Snowshoes. |
| 6 | 14 | 8.10 (A. M.) to 6.15 (P. M.). Snow hard. Ice flat. Few hummocks. Less wavy. Snow (shoes). Sun faces. |
| 7 | 14 | 11 to 10. Beautiful clear weather; even the night sky clear. Midnight sun first seen. Ice 36 ft. (thick). (Another measurement gave 21 feet.) |
| 8 | 9 | Observation before starting, 86.36, 94.2. In spite of what seemed like long marches we made only 106 miles in 9 days. Much distance lost in crossings. (From field paper) bar. 29.50, rising; temp. -37°; wind mag. N. E., 2; clouds St. 3; shadow (6 ft. pole), 32 feet. |
| 9 | 14 | 9 A. M. to 5.30 P. M.; snow hard; ice about the same; wind cutting; frost bites. Clothes humid. |
| 10 | 16 | 10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Working hours changed; big marches and long hours no longer possible; snow good; ice steadily improving; bodily fatigue much felt; wind 1-28 W. |
| 11 | 15 | 10.30 to 8 A. M. Observation end of March, 87.20, 95.19; the pack disturbance of B. Ld. lost; farthest north; little crushed ice; old floes less irregular; anxious about food; wind 3 W. (true); 300 miles in 24 days; work intermittent; too tired to read instruments. (From other field notes, Temp. -39°; bar. 29.90°.) |
| 12 | 21 | 11 P. M. to 7 A. M. Thoughts of return. Food supply reduced. Hope to economize in warmer weather. Very heavy ice. Much like land ice. Wind 2 W. S. W. The awful monotony! |
| 13 | 17 | 12 P. M. to 7 A. M. The same heavy glacier-like ice.... The occasional soup. Hummocks 15-20 ft. Ahwelah in tears at start. W. black. Sun under rushing vapors. Ice changes. Leads. |
| 14 | 23 | 11 P. M. to 7.10 A. M. 88.21, 95.52. Wind light but penetrating. Off the big field, ice smaller. Some open leads. Little sign of pressure. Snow soft, but less precipitation. Dogs get up better speed. 100 miles from Pole. (From other observation papers: Bar. 29.90, falling; temp., -44°; shadow (6 ft. pole) 30½ feet.) |
| 15 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Ice same. Wind -1, S. W. Working to the limit of muscle capacity. So tired and weary of the never ceasing tread! |
| 16 | 15 | 10.30 to 8 A. M. Ice passed. Several heavy old floes. Made 6 crossings. Wind 1-3, W. S. W. |
| 17 | 13 | 10.15 to 8 A. M. Ice same. Crevasses new. 7 crossings Saw several big hummocks. Ice less troublesome. Temp., -40°; bar., 30.00. Sled friction less. |
| 18 | 14 | 9 P. M. to 6. Ice, though broken, smooth. The horizon line not so irregular as that of more S. ice. Sky and ice of a dark purple blue. (Bar. 30.02.) |
| 19 | 16 | 11 P. M. to 8 A. M. (Position) 89.31. D. R. 94.03. Camp on an old field—the only one on the horizon with big hummocks. Ice in very large fields; surface less irregular, but in other respects not different from farther S. Eskimos told that in two average marches Pole would be reached. Extra rations served. Camp in tent. (Bar., 29.98; Temp., -46°.) |
| 20 | 15½ | 8 P. M. to 4 A. M. An exciting run; ice aglow in purple and gold; Eskimos chanting. Wind, S. 1 89; 46.45. (D. R.) 94.52. New enthusiasm; good march. Temp., -36°; bar. (not legible on notes); course set for 97th. |
| 21 | 13½ | 1 A. M. to 9 A. M. Observations noon: 89; 59.45; ped. 14. Camp; sleep in tent short time; after observations advance; pitch tent; (also) made camp—snow—prepared for two rounds of observations. Temp., 37.7°; bar., 29.83. Nothing wonderful; no Pole; a sea of unknown depth; ice more active; new cracks; open leads; but surface like farther south. Overjoyed but find no words to express pleasure. So tired and weary! How we need a rest! 12, night. Sun seems as high as at noon, but in reality is a little higher, owing to its spiral ascent. The mental elation—the drying of furs, and (making) photos—Eskimos' ideas and disappointment of no Pole—thoughts of home and its cheer. But oh, such monotony of sky, wind and ice! The dangers of getting back. (From other observation papers: Temp, ranged from -36° by mercury thermometer to -39° by spirit thermometer; clouds Alt. St., 1; wind mag. S., 1; ice blink E.; water sky, W.; shadow (of 6 ft. pole) 28 feet.) |
| 22 | 0 | Moved camp 4 m. magnetic S. Made 4 observations for altitude; S. at noon, W. at 6, N. at 12M, E. at 6 A. M. Ice same; more open water; wind 2-3; temp., -41°; (from field paper) W. S. W., 1 to 2. There are only two big hummocks in sight. (Made a series of observations for the sun's altitude, 2 on the 21st at the first camp, 4 on the 22nd at W. M. camp, and another midnight 22-23. Before we left deposited tube.) |
| 23 | 20 | Start for home. 12.30 to noon. Fairly clear—ice smooth, but many new crevasses. Temp., -41°. Course for 100 mer. |
| 24 | 16 | 11 P. M. to 9 A. M. These records, being made at the end of the day's journey, give the doings of the day previous—this note for the 24th is in reality written on the morning of the 25th, when comfortable in camp. Wind 1-2 W. Temp., -36°. Ice smooth—fields larger; 5 crossings; the pleasure of facing home. |
| 25 | 15 | 8-8. Temp., -37°; Wind 1-2 W. S. W.; ice same. The worry of ice breaking up for me, signs of joy for the Eskimo. |
| 26 | 14 | 9 to 7. Still much worried about return; possibility of ice disruption and open water near land; wind light; ice shows new cracks, but few have opened; seems to be little pressure; few hummocks; snow hard and traveling all that could be desired. |
| 27 | 14 | 9.30 to 8. Ice same; wind S. E. 1; good going; crossings not troublesome; dogs in good spirits; Eskimos happy; but all very tired. Temp., -40°. |
| 28 | 14 | 9.15 to 7.45. Ice same; wind 1 W.; snow moderately hard; few hummocks and no pressure lines. |
| 29 | 13 | Midnight to 8.45 A. M. Ice more active; fresh cracks; some open cracks but no leads. Wind 1 S. |
| 30 | 15 | Midnight to 8 A. M. Ped. registered 121 m. from Pole; camp by D. R., 87.59-100; observations 88.01, 97.42. Course half point more W. Temp., -34°. Start more westerly. |
| May 1908. | 1 | 18 | 12.30 to 9 A. M. Much color to the sunbursts, but the air humid; the temperature persistently near -40°, but
considerable range with the direction of the light winds and mists when they come over leads. Much very heavy smooth ice—undulating, not hummocky like S. |
| 2 | 12 | 2 A. M. to 11 A. M. Fog, clouds and wet air. Temp., -15°. Hard to strike a course. |
| 3 | 13 | 1 A. M. to 10 A. M. Thick weather; wind E. 2; ice friction less; occasional light snow fall. |
| 4 | 14 | 3 to 11 A. M. Air clear but sky obscured; ice very good, but hummocks appearing on the horizon. |
| 5 | 11 | 11 P. M. to 6 A. M. Strong wind; occasional breathing spell behind hummocks; squally with drifts. |
| 6 | 0 | In camp. Stopped by signs of storm; tried to build igloo but wind prevented; in a collapsed tent for 24 hours; eat only half ration of pemmican. |
| 7 | 10 | 8 A. M. to 3 P. M. Wind detestable; ice bad; life a torture; sky persistently obscured; no observations; pedometer out of order, only time to gauge our distance. |
| 8 | 12 | 2 A. M. to 10. Weather bad; windy, S. W.; some drift; heavy going. |
| 9 | 13 | 1 to 8 A. M. (Weather) thick; wind easier; ice in big fields; snow a little harder, snowshoes steady. |
| 10 | 13 | 11 P. M. of the 9th to 6 A. M. Heavy going but little friction on sled; some drift; see more hummocks. |
| 11 | 0 | May 11. In camp. Strong wind; heavy drift; encircle tent with snow blocks. |
| 12 | 11 | 12.30 to 8.30 A. M. Wind still strong; cestrugi troublesome, but temperature moderate; sled loads getting light. |
| 13 | 12 | 11 P. M. of 12th, to 7.30 A. M. of 13th. Wind easier, S. S. W.; snow harder; ice very thick and very large fields; fog. |
| 14 | 9 | 3 A. M. to 9 A. M. No sky; strong wind compelled to camp early. |
| 15 | 13 | 1 A. M. to 10. Fog; ice much crevassed; passed over several cracks—some opening. |
| 16 | 14 | May 16. 11 P. M. of the 15th to 6 A. M. Cl. 10; wind again troublesome; light diffused, making it difficult to find footing. |
| 17 | 11 | 2 A. M. to 10. Thick; ice more and more broken; smaller and more cracked—cracks give much trouble. |
| 18 | 11 | 1 A. M. to 9.30. Wind more southerly and strong; ice separating; some open water in leads. |
| 19 | 12 | 11 P. M. to 7.30. Wind veering east; fog thicker; ice very much broken, but snow surface good. |
| 20 | 6 | Midnight to 9 A. M. Open water; active pack; almost impossible. |
| 21 | 8 | 11 P. M. to 9. Conditions the same; our return seems almost hopeless; no observations—cannot even guess at the drift. |
| 22 | 0 | In camp. Gale N. E.; temp, high; air wet; ice breaking and grinding; worried about the ultimate return; food low. |
| 23 | 5 | 3 A. M. to 7 A. M. Still squally, but forced a short march. |
| 24 | 12 | 12 noon to 8 A. M. Short clearing at noon; the first clear mid-day sky for a long time; west still in haze. Water sky W. and S. W.; no land in sight—though the boys saw the land later when I was asleep; ice much broken. 84° 02'-97° 03'. |
| 25 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 6 A. M. Ice better; no wind; thick fog; snow hard. Temp., -10°. |
| 26 | 12 | 11 P. M. to 7.45 A. M. Ice in fields of about 1 M. somewhat hummocky; crossings hard; no wind. |
| 27 | 11 | 11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. Ice same; thick fog. |
| 28 | 13 | 12 m. night to 10 A. M. Ice still same; fog; wind 3, shifting E. S. E. and S. W. |
| 29 | 11 | 11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. As we came here the water sky in the southwest to which we had aimed, gradually working west, led to a wide open lead, extending from north to south, and almost before knowing it, in the general plan of the ice arrangement, we found ourselves to the east of this lead. Temp. rose to zero. Ice much broken; air thick; light vague; impossible to see irregularities. Food 3/4 rations; and straight course for Nansen Sound. |
| 30 | 10 | 12 to 11 A. M. Ice in heaps; open water; brash the worst trouble; little fog. |
| 31 | 11 | 11.15 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice little better; snow hard; sleds go easy; much helping required (over pressure lines). |
| June 1908. | 1 | 12 | 10.45 to 8. Ice in large fields; many hummocks; few heavy fields. |
| 2 | 12 | 10 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice steadily improving. |
| 3 | 11 | 10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Ice begins to show action of sun. Temperature occasionally above freezing. |
| 4 | 10 | 9.30 P. M. to 7.30 A. M. Fog; ice offering much trouble, but friction little and load light. |
| 5 | 11 | 9.45 P. M. to 7 A. M. Hummocks exposed to sun have icicles. |
| 6 | 0 | In camp. Strong N. W. gale. |
| 7 | 0 | In camp. Gale continues, with much snow; the ice about breaks up; anxious about map. (Not knowing either drift or position, were puzzled as to proper course to set.) |
| 8 | 14 | 1 A. M. to noon. Ice bad, but snow hard, and after rest progress good; wind still blowing west. |
| 9 | 10 | 11 P. M. to 9 A. M. With thick ice and this kind of traveling it is hard to guess at distances. |
| 10 | 0 | 10.30 P. M. to 8. Bad ice; open leads; still no sun. |
| 11 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Large smooth ice; little snow; wind S. W., 1; no fog, but sky still of lead. |
| 12 | 15 | 10.30 to 5. Small fields but good going; sky black to the east. |
| 13 | 14 | 10 to 8 A. M. Fog cleared first time since last observation. Land in sight south and east. Heiberg and Ringnes Land; water sky; small ice; brash and drift eastward. We have been carried adrift far to the south and west, and examination of ice eastward proves that all is small ice and open water. Heiberg Island is impossible to us. What is our fate? Food and fuel is about exhausted, though we still have 10 bony dogs. Upon these and our little pemmican we can possibly survive for 20 days. In the meantime we must go somewhere. To the south is our only hope. |
