  Probably Bryce Canyon is the most astonishing blend of exquisite beauty and grotesque grandeur that the forces of erosion have ever produced. In one aspect it is a gorgeous lacework design of frost and fire, the playground of sylphs and fairies; in another it is a smoldering inferno habited by goblins and demons; again, it seems as if some cataclysmic force had shuffled together a dozen oriental cities into one spectacular municipality. The joyous prevailing colors of this immense bowl of luminous, flickering filigree heaped with jewels, are pink, red, orange, purple, yellow and white; to these may be added as many other tints and tones as one has patience to distinguish. Though Bryce is immense, yet it is intimate, presenting to the eye a scintillating coral intaglio of bizarre but definite plan, overspread with a halo of lavender mist. It is not a canyon, but an amphitheatre of horseshoe shape, graven 1,000 feet deep into the sandstones on the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau, at the headwaters of the Pahreah River; it is approximately two miles wide and three miles long and its rim is 8,000 feet in elevation. The area of Bryce Canyon National Monument, which was created in 1923 and is administered by the U. S. Department of Agriculture, is 7,440 acres. In the maze of architecture uprising from Bryce’s sunken gardens, where pine, spruce and manzanita spread their greens, there are the styles of China and Egypt, of the Toltecs, Incas, Greeks and Goths; but stronger, perhaps, is the resemblance to those decaying Dravidian temples, bursting with decoration, in the jungles of Burmah and Java: pagodas, mosques, minarets, kiosks, fairy castles, cathedrals, theatres, flying buttresses and stairways, suspension bridges, niched and fenestrated walls, peristyles, colonnades, lotus columns, leaning towers, slim spires, massive pylons, pyramids, obelisks, pilasters capped by tilted disks, cones supporting cones, organs, shrines and altars. All of the architects of antiquity might have drawn their inspiration from the silent cities of Bryce. And these dream-tissue cities in the realm of muted mystery have weird inhabitants statued in variegated stone: giants and gnomes, popes and queens, kneeling penitents, companies of marching soldiers, gargoyles, fauns, satyrs, nymphs, witches, horses, dogs, lizards, frogs and turtles—figures that seem to move, sway and posture in the flashing play of light and shadow. The least vivid imagination needs a checkrein. The Cathedral, Bryce Canyon In the east, on a headland of the Table Cliffs, an outlier of the vast Aquarius Plateau, the mesa rises by ramps and colonnades of pink and buff to a level esplanade where stand a dozen glorified Acropolises,—faÇades, friezes, pillars and porticoes, in ruins of rosy marble. There, as everywhere, the marionettes of the sun continually perform their evanescent dances. And this is but a vista chosen at random from a hundred glorious panoramas. Farther in the east, the amphitheatre opens out to make way for the headstreams of the Pahreah River; the green fields surrounding the village of Tropic may be seen and the ramparts of the Kaiparowitz Plateau. Bryce should be seen from the west rim in the morning, from the east rim in the afternoon. The exquisite pageant of shimmering tints begins when dawn thrusts the first spears of light into the abysses. The best effects are obtained when the formations are between the beholder and the sun; it is then that the mysterious, lambent flames flicker in the distant temples and play upon altars and columns, warming them into living, glowing color. Trails extend in both directions along the rim of the Canyon from Bryce Lodge and the vistas change with almost every step taken. Sunset upon Bryce Canyon is another breath-taking manifestation of Nature’s magic, followed by a solemn twilight of the innumerable gods that dwell there in pomp and splendor. The visitor should see both dawn and dusk transform the great amphitheatre, and should see it sleeping in the noonday light. Every visitor should take the trail into the depths of Bryce Canyon, either on foot or horseback. Lacy designs and dainty figures, seen from the rim, assume huge proportions when one is amongst them; there are sunless grottoes and shadowed crypts, wafer walls pierced by many windows, artists’ studios filled with half-finished models and figurines, innumerable fantastic forms in bronze, jasper, ruby amethyst, topaz and alabaster. Each turn in every innumerable aisle, alley and corridor on Bryce’s intricate floor has its charming revelations of unimagined contour and color. Trail into Bryce Canyon Pillars of Pegasus, Bryce Canyon Zion Canyon to Kaibab Forest and North Rim of Grand CanyonThe highway crosses the Rio Virgen at Rockville and climbs the plateau, whence splendid views may be had of the Temples of Zion. Near the Arizona boundary appear the magnificent Vermilion Cliffs which stretch across Southern Utah for great distances; they present the arresting architectural effects of vast castles and cathedrals colored rich red which becomes vivid vermilion in the afternoon sun. After crossing Short Creek into Arizona the immense blue arch of the Kaibab Plateau becomes more prominent and Mt. Trumbull, an extinct volcano overlooking Grand Canyon, looms in the purple distance. Upon this stretch of fascinating desert range many wild horses, direct descendants, perhaps, of those brought to America by the Spaniards. On Cedar Ridge is a petrified forest. The road follows the Vermilion Cliffs eastward through the Kaibab Indian Reservation to Pipe Spring, a celebrated oasis on the plains, created a National Monument in 1923. The two historic stone buildings standing there were erected more than fifty years ago in fortress style for protection from the Indians; from beneath one house flows the finest and purest spring in all this frontier domain, daily discharging 100,000 gallons of cool water. At Pipe Spring, the Vermilion Cliffs recede northward and give place to the Shinarump Cliffs, banded with gorgeous colors—red, brown, lavender, chocolate and white. A conspicuous butte seen approaching Fredonia is The Battleship. Fredonia is a pretty little Mormon community of 300 inhabitants and the only town in Arizona north of the Grand Canyon. Between Fredonia and the Kaibab is one of the most picturesque and exquisitely colored stretches of upland in America. Whites, blacks, browns, yellows, pinks, purples, reds and all their pale intermediate tints are splashed over these prismatic plains, where cactus, yucca, piÑon, sage and cedar somehow find sustenance. Almost imperceptibly, the automobile has climbed the gentle slopes of the Kaibab. Looking backward to the north one of the grandest spectacles of the Plateau Country is unfolded. Nearly 10,000 feet of terraced rock layers are exposed edgewise across a frontage of some sixty miles. A glorious panorama, these painted precipices! First the rainbow Shinarump, then the Vermilion, White and Pink cliffs, tier upon tier and hundreds of miles in convoluted length, all shining and shifting in the sun. Bryce Canyon from Inspiration Point The Temple of Osiris, Bryce Canyon |
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