  uncaptioned The use of pleats is one of the most effective ways of controlling the fullness of a drapery that is made to hang in balanced, graceful folds. The types most generally used are the pinch pleat, the French pleat, the box pleat and the cartridge pleat. Pleats should be made in groups of uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many as are required to take up the amount allowed for fullness. For very sheer fabrics, the allowance for fullness should be 3 times the width of the window or space to be covered. To figure the spacings and amount to be taken up in pleats, take the measurement of the space to be covered plus the return; that is, the distance from turn of rod to the wall or the bracket supporting the rod on either end, plus the overlap at the center when curtains are drawn together. The width allowed for draperies minus these three measurements is to be taken up in pleats. The fullness of each type of pleat and space between depends on the weight of the material and amount allowed for fullness of the curtain. For Example: If one half of the width to be covered is 49 then one section of the drapery would be about 144 wide after finishing side hems. To width of window area (49), add 3 for return and 1 for center overlap. This totals 53. 144 minus 53 equals 91 for pleats. Allowing 7 for each pleat, 13 pleats will be required to take up the fullness. Please Note—3 for return is used as an example. The return can be 4 or 5, depending on type of rod or bracket. Always measure the return. Steps to PleatsAlways measure and mark the exact position and width for all pleats and spacings before stitching. Measure the width of the return from outer edge. Then measure for the first pleat at the curve of the rod. Place second pleat on opposite side 2 from center edge. The third pleat is placed at the exact center between the first and second pleat. The remaining number of pleats required is evenly spaced between the 1st and 3rd and between the 2nd and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, bring markings for pleats together. Pin; then stitch from top to ¾ below the heading, reversing the stitch at either end. 1. Bring the markings together for pleat and pin. 2. Stitch from top to about ¾ below heading, reversing stitch at each end. These steps are the same for all types of pleats. Pinch Pleat—Divide the large pleat evenly into three smaller pleats; press in firmly and stitch across the three folds at lower edge of heading. The Pinch pleat is a favorite finish for most types of draperies and is particularly good when draperies are made of a heavier fabric. French Pleat—At lower edge of heading, divide large pleat into three smaller pleats and run needle and thread through three pleats several times, drawing thread tight. Then fasten thread securely underneath. Box Pleat—The large pleat is spread an equal distance on each side of stitching and pressed flat. Box pleats should be about 2 wide, taking up 4 fullness. When figuring these pleats, try for uniformity; that is, the space between each pleat (from fold to fold) should be the same as the width of pleat. Box pleats should be about 2 wide, taking up 4 fullness. Cartridge Pleat—This is a round pleat left loose and filled with cotton, Kapok or a roll of stiff paper. The pleats take up 2 to 2½ and are spaced from 2 to 3 apart for draw type draperies. 1. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from traverse rod. 2. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from rod with rings or from traverse rod mounted against ceiling. Doors or Windows Opening Outuncaptioned Box Pleats, extending above the heading to form a loop, make an interesting treatment for unlined curtains draping a French window or door that opens out. Draperies hang from a rod drawn through the loops. Fabrics, such as Fortisan blends, antique satin, taffetas and sheer linens are suitable for these curtains. Measure from top of rod to floor for length. Add 9½ at top for seam, loops, and facing and 6 for a 3 double bottom hem. Allow 3 times the width of space to be covered for fullness. Example: If space to be covered is 52, 3 lengths of 48 fabric are required. Cut one length through center and join each half width to each one of the full widths. Each section measures approximately 70. 70 minus 4 for 1 double hems and 3 for return equals 63. 7 pleats × 5 = 35. 63 minus 35 = 28 for space to be covered and center overlap. 1. Measuring for pleats, spacings and loops. Pleats may be wider or as narrow as desired. Spacings may vary, depending on weight of material. Always consider the pleat overlap. 2. Turn top to right side 9½. Use a stiffening or stay of lawn or organdy for most light and medium weight materials. Arrows indicate stitching lines. 3. Material is cut out between loops. Seams are slashed diagonally at corners to line of stitching. Press. If stiffening is not used as shown in sketches 1 and 2, stitch 4 strip of crinoline to hem as shown above. This lends support to pleats. 4. Turn loops right side out and hem to underside. Press. Pin in pleat, stitch same as for Box pleat. Spread pleat, press. 5. Fasten loops to back of pleat by hand. Anchor curtains at side, top and bottom as shown page 15. Pattern for tie-back pinned to material. Tie-back stitched—Seam blended ready for turning. Tie-BacksFabric tie-backs for draperies are usually tailored, straight or shaped bands which match or harmonize with the drapery in color and design. The fullness of the drapery determines the length of the tie-back. To estimate length, loop a strip of material around the drapery, drawing it back to side of window for the best effect. Lengths may vary from 18 to 24 and can be 2½ or more in width. They are usually lined or faced and interlined. Use a stiffening of heavy muslin or crinoline in a shaped band. For shaped band, cut a paper pattern about 3 or 4 wide in the center, tapering to 2 or 2½ at the end as illustrated. Cut fabric, lining and stiffening the same as pattern, allowing for a ? seam on all edges. Pin stiffening to underside of band, and lining to right side of material—right sides together. Stitch, leaving an opening of 3 or 4 for turning. Trim stiffening to stitching line and blend edge of lining. Press. Turn band right side out and press. Slip-stitch lining to band at opening. Sew small bone rings or very narrow fabric loops at ends of band. These loop over a hook fastened to side of window. Anchoring Draperiesuncaptioned Outside edges of draperies should hang against the wall in a straight taut line. Sew a plastic ring to the bottom hem. Place a cup hook in the wall or the baseboard in line with the hem. |
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