  uncaptioned Draperies or over curtains are made of medium weight or heavy fabrics. They may be unlined, lined or lined and interlined, depending on the fabric and its treatment—whether formal or informal. There are three accepted lengths for draperies—to the window sill—to the bottom of the window apron—or to the floor. Floor length is most generally used, and for very formal treatments, the drapery is often made long enough to crush on the floor. Draperies hang straight from the rod to the floor. If they meet at the top center, they may be draped to either side and held with ornamental tie-backs or those made of the same material. When the type and design of draperies have been decided upon and the right type of rods have been mounted, then measurements for draperies can be taken. Measure from the top of the rod down for length desired. Then add to length measurement the allowance for top and bottom hems. Review chapter on “Fabrics” before cutting lengths for draperies. Unlined DraperiesThese draperies are informal in treatment and are usually made of light or medium weight fabrics. Most any type of top finish, shirring or pleats is suitable. A plain valance or cornice board may be used. For a pleated heading, allow 5½ at the top for heading and 5½ at the bottom for a 2½ double hem. Cut strips of crinoline or lawn for stiffening 4 wide and 3 shorter than the width of each drapery length. Pin strip to underside of heading ½ from the top, starting 1½ from the edge. Stitch along lower edge of strip, then turn top edge of fabric over stiffening ½ and stitch. Turn top hem to underside along edge of stiffening. Press and pin in place. Side hems may be put in by hand, machine stitched or blind stitched. For hand stitching or straight machine stitching, turn edge ½ to underside; then turn 1 for hem. Pin hem in place for stitching. To blind-stitch hem, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine or the Zigzag Attachment, pin hem in place; then run a row of hand basting ¼ from turned edge. With wrong side of drapery up, turn hem under to right side, exposing the ¼ edge. Turn 2½ double hem at the bottom and finish by hand or machine stitch. Stitch stiffening to top of drapery.
Finish side hem by hand, using slip-stitch. Side hem basted for blind-stitch hemming. Blind-stitch hemming, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine. Double hems with corners cut out to relieve bulk. Finishing double side hems and bottom hem by hand. If 1 double side hems are used, cut stiffening 4 shorter than the width of each drapery length. When using a heading with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, (available by the yard) allow 2 at the top for heading and seam. Pin right side of heading to right side of drapery 5/16 below edge across the top. Consider the return of the drapery at each side, and position woven-in pockets so that the pleat comes at the turn of the rod. Stitch, taking ½ seam; then turn heading to underside. Press and stitch ¼ from the lower edge of the heading. Type of hook used for forming pleats and hanging draperies. RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL
Tape turned to underside. Stitch tape to drapery at lower edge. Machine stitch 1 side hems.
Lined DraperiesLining in proportion to drapery length.
Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as the lining fabric. Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the crosswise and lengthwise grains. Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut. Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric. To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle it. Press before seaming. Lining should be cut to allow for a 2 hem at the bottom and a ½ seam across the top and sides. Illustration is for a drapery 2½ yards long, finished with 4 top hem, 1 side hems and 3 bottom hem. Drapery length would measure To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside ½ and press. Pin lining and drapery together, starting 7½ from the top. Stitch from top of lining down to 4½ of lower edge of lining, taking a ½ seam. Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched; then clip seam every 3 or 4. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to hem, a 4 wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch and press. Straightening material—Pull diagonally from low corner. Joining lining to drapery.
Stiffening stitched to heading.
Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and press. Turn and miter side Use a sew-on or pin-on weight at bottom of center hems. (See illustration at top of page 22.) Cut out end of top hem to eliminate bulk.
Lining slip-stitched to top hem.
Making a French tack.
‘Sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weights. Lined drapery with pleater tape heading. Side hems tacked to insure evenness. When using a tape with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, allow 2 above the rod for heading and seam. See instructions under the section It is a good idea to tack the side hems along stitching line. This prevents them from slipping and hems always appear sharper. Using matching thread and working from the underside, insert needle through the seam down through to the right side, picking up a thread or two of the fabric. Then bring needle back up through the seam. Insert needle at the same point and direct needle along the seam between the hem a distance of 1. Bring needle up through seam; then direct needle down through seam at same point, picking up two or three threads, and then up through seam again. Continue this tacking the length of the hem. Drapery lined to topThere are times that draperies are lined to the top instead of using a hem, particularly when a valance or cornice board is used. To the length Joining stiffening to lining and drapery at top. Drapery turned to right side. Interlined DraperiesDraperies are often interlined, particularly in very formal rooms, or when the character of the material is such that the extra weight is necessary for its protection. Interlining also adds to the draping quality and elegance of the fabric. For an interlining fabric, use good quality cotton flannel. Cut interlining the exact measurements of draperies when finished; that is, if draperies have 1½ hems on each side and 3 hems, top and bottom, then cut interlining 3 narrower and 6 shorter than drapery fabric. Spread material right side down. Tack interlining to drapery at center and between center and side hems.
Turn and baste hems—side, top, and bottom.
Fold interlining through lengthwise center. Place fold on exact center of drapery fabric and tack together loosely. Take a stitch in the drapery; bring needle up through fold of interlining and leave a loop. Space about 6; take a stitch in drapery, then interlining, then drapery, etc. Do not pull thread taut. When row is finished, fold interlining halfway between center and edge on both sides and tack in the same manner, making three rows of vertical tacking. Catch-stitch hems to interlining. Turn side hems back over interlining. Pin and baste. Then turn top and bottom hems. Pin and baste. Miter hems at corners. All hems may be catch-stitched to the interlining, and the lining slip-stitched to top and side hems. Linings may also be joined by machine. Turn hem and baste; then pin lining to drapery and stitch, taking ½ seam. Press seam as stitched. Then clip and press seam open the same as for all lined curtains and draperies. Turn sides and top of lining under ½. Pin in place, slip-stitch. When lining is joined to drapery by machine, tack interlining and lining together along seam. Take stitch in seam, then in interlining. Space stitching 3 or 4 apart. Do not draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining to hem across the top and slip-stitch. Turn hem in lining and stitch. Allowance should be made for a 2 hem, overlapping the hem in drapery approximately 1. Use french tacks between lining hem and drapery to hold lining in place. Use either ‘sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weight at bottom of side hems. When lining is machine stitched to drapery, tack seam to interlining. French tacks hold drapery and lining together. |
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